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thanks, appreciated! I'll probably park it on the box pile until I get somet ime to clean it up.

man it's been a long time since I've posted or browsed this thread... :) on the small box front - found this in the pile of tools I rescued out of my wife's father's tool shed last year after he passed. not much to go on, but figured if anyone in the world recognized it and wanted it, it'd be...

the midrise is 2295: https://www.atlasautoequipment.com/products/mid-rise-scissor-lifts/kwik-bay-7000

what are you lifting? something heavy and full sized that lays frame would be about the only thing I can think of that would require full lifting force at ground level. And then only when you've blown a bag (or hydraulic line for the older school). everything else - even a low slung ferrari...

Generally, scissor lifts - especially an in-floor lift, never lift weight from dead bottom, so the forces on the mechanism are limited to the mechanism itself, or possibly drive-over weight. The lift has to come up a few inches at least to engage the lift points on a car, and that's generally...

First - as others have mentioned 220v (actually 240v if we want to be specific) single phase is normal residential power in the US. You might be an really old house that only has 120v (one leg of the 240v) - which is a different problem. (you won't have an electric hot water heater or dryer...

Maybe this will help: You don't pour concrete. You place concrete. (regardless of the words used to describe the process, which I dont care about. but if you change your visualization of the process a little bit it makes more sense) Concrete shouldn't be a liquid when you place it. :)...

my guess would be that he's using a different lift style - maybe one of the on-floor versions?

buddy of mine is a pro blaster - and he did exactly that for years. Upgraded to a cheap carport eventually before moving up to a concrete block room...

My thoughts - I'd stick 2 20ft wide doors on the storage side of the front (or as close as will fit). I was going to do 2x10, but my builder convince me to do 1x20 and i'll never go back to a small door. Also - build it as tall as you can, THEN put a full height attic truss on top, if...

Yeah - you definitely want to add ~24" + walk space (that might be 20-24" if you dont care about code and elbows - but 36" is more comfortable) around walls, because they -will- get stuff stored there. tools/machines, cabinets, toolboxes, piles of lumber, whatever - if there's a wall, it's best...

Easiest way to AC a shop is with a "package" air conditioner. You mostly see them with mobile homes, but sometimes with crawlspace houses. They even make portable units for tents and such - same idea in those, just with wheels and big cords. I've seen them from 1 to 10 tons, probably go...

pics of mine attached. the girt isn't flush with the posts, so the posts are furred out on the outside with 2x8 (8x8" posts). A an outside and inside "header" span the opening on the post faces. The inside of the post is furred out to match that inside header. A post section runs mid-span...

After breaking a few (I'm looking at you longacre), I just make my own - a inlet fitting, a valve, a compact air regulator, and a low gauge and high gauge attached to the regulator (a ~40-50psi gauge so I have good resolution in the 25-35 range, and a 100psi gauge for the truck tires), a hose...

???!!???!! You mean the curing compound (vinegar) in the silicone perhaps? I've been applying silicone caulk to cut edges of steel for 20 years and have never seen it cause corrosion (including pulling it off later). (where the cut edge is buried in the siliconed joint) Certainly never...

assuming we're talking about the garage door header? you dont mention how wide the header is. Is this on a gable or eave wall? Truss or rafter with ridge beam? Something else? Gable walls dont carry the same kind of load across them. If you only need to rip something off a 2x10, you...

I can't speak to the price of the trusses - but was that quote for a post frame style truss, not a truss for a stick wall? so one truss (or one truss pair) per post? You can also get that built as an attic truss (cost difference is generally minimal - the real cost goes into the floor...

Generally, those trusses are not designed to carry a traditional wood and asphalt shingle roof. Contact the truss company (you'd want them to engineer a truss system to match your needs) to be sure, but generally they're designed for purlins and "R" rib steel. The steel provides it's own...

Note that if you (or anyone else) ever need to crawl inside that attic, closer is better than further, even though it costs more up front... trying to straddle a 36" ceiling joist spacing would be Fun. :) Might be worth laying down some plywood even if it's just a 24" end-to-end crawl path...

I'm confused what insulation and baffles have to do with soffits? the soffit is outside - which you dont show (the underside of the eave). Are they enclosed now? External vents should probably be on the bottom face.. You may choose to vent them into your "attic" if you're going to finish...