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My first question would be why you feel you need a bonding agent in the first place. They have their place but I can count on one hand the number of times we've used them on what must be tens of thousands of construction joints. You are generally better off with a mechanical connection using...

Sumps are a common element in commercial construction and we've installed hundreds. I would think a 12" deep sump by whatever size grate you can find would be adequate. Btw, when you form them up, add a form to create a lip support the grate for a clean install. I don't think freezing would...

If you don't want to mess with floor drains, how about a simple sump with a grate under each of the vehicle parking areas. You could just hang a form and place them integrally with the slab. Is it preferable to pump or vacuum out a sump rather than. deal with water pooling in the corners and...

Sorry about your experience so far. At least you didn't pay too much up front. You're probably still above water as long as their work to date stands up although I'm not clear on the impact of under-ordering the concrete. Any chance you could finish it up yourself. A yard or two of concrete...

You'll want to get the floor as clean as possible to aid penetration and not seal in dirt. I'd vacuum it at a minimum or give it a quick mop or power wash. The floor has to be fully cured but I don't recall whether it's sensitive to moisture. I seem to recall that we've washed a floor or two...

We've used Euco Diamond Hard a number of times over the years including most of our own industrial slabs with good results. I can't really speak for the densifying qualities but it does result in a nice mat finish sheen and improves stain resistance and clean up. It requires a specific...

You could but the only potential difference will be that shrinkage cracks will be visible on the surface rather than hidden in the bottom of your saw cuts. I'm not sure it's worth the effort especially if the floor will be covered.

Ohhh, my mistake. Sorry bout that. That changes a couple things, not the least of which is cost. The $8,500 price tag seems a little more reasonable now. A couple other thoughts based on this scenario You'll want to evaluate the base material under the existing slab just as you would any...

Let me take me take it point by point. I'll be a bit picky but it's intended to be helpful rather than offensive so bear with me. #1 - You don't need 4000 psi concrete. Your comment about 'normal set time' suggests a lack of understanding. You can walk on any strength concrete in 12 hours...

I used cement panels installed in a rain screen configuration. If you are unfamiliar, rain screens are offset from the face of the structure leaving an airspace behind and between the panels. The underlying surface is protected with tar paper or something similar so any water that gets in...

While I don't disagree that a contract is a net positive, I've been signing them for 40 years and it's worthwhile to understand their inherent limitations. We always joked that the only time people read the damn things was when things had already gone to ****. First is the difficulty of...

With regard to your first question, curing compound is a chemical that is sprayed or rolled onto the concrete after placement. Many believe it is inferior to moist curing but it’s definitely better than nothing With all due respect, you are getting bad information with regard to curing...

Generally some good advice being offered. Just to clarify a recent comment. Watering your slab a couple times especially during hot weather will do more harm than good. The goal is to maintain the concrete in a continually moist condition for at least a week. This can be achieved with a...

We don’t have NOC‘s or even contractor licensing up here but it brings up a good point about lien laws. They vary widely by State but the basic concept is generally the same, which is that a sub or supplier is entitled to payment for goods or services that improve a property regardless of...

Take a look at my Guide to Floor Slabs in the link below for some additional thoughts but assuming the base under the slab is adequate, the first priority should be to control mix water. Your contractor should be prepared to wrestle a sub 4 inch slump or add a mid range water reducer for a max...

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I was obviously referring to unheated structures. Under slab insulation will provide less temperature differential than an uninsulated slab but how much savings in actual heating costs will result. I believe the savings are minimal and unlikely to exceed the initial cost for many years.

Unless you are heating with in-slab radiant, you likely won't see a return on your insulation investment in your lifetime. Not only is heat loss in a conventionally heated space minimal down through the slab, one thing people fail to consider is you are also blocking the natural heat from the...

Not being familliar with the term 'Mardin channery silt loam', I fired up the Google machine only to end up in the the 'dense fragipan'. At this point, I threw in the towel and would encourage you to do the same. lol. I'd seek out some local knowledge about your soil conditions before...

That's hard to say because so many factors are local but I'd expect you're in the ballpark and maybe a bit low. Some quick back of the napkin math using local numbers suggests the concrete cost is about half. The site work only requires one operation for a mono-slab to clear, grub, fill and...