Painting a Harbor Freight Box

devilphrog · Jul 28, 2010

So I have a bunch of the specialty tools that come in the blow molded cases that hold the tools and their accessories, and I need to come up with a storage solution that doesn't entail them being all over my garage and spread out throughout my box drawers (26" C-Man Ball Bearing), and I've been eying the HF Side Cabinet/ Side Locker, but the paint texture and color kind of drive me crazy, and I don't want to spend 450 bucks on a matching C-Man Locker. How well do you think it would turn out if I turned the side cabinet from red/pink to a platinum gray and black that matches the box. I don't plan on rattle canning it but maybe using a spray gun with my amateur painting/ prep skills. Thanks!

Indy_500 · Jul 28, 2010

sandblast, wipe down with acetone, prime, paint, clearcoat. simple as that

MechanicNamedJohn · Jul 28, 2010

This is the next project I want to tackle. Can't stand red or the wrinkle finish. I suspect we may be using Bondo as well. Even with that, I might use a semi gloss "or flat" black. I don't know how gloss black will look.

Jack Olsen · Jul 28, 2010

I'm lazy. I used Rustoleum satin black on the drawer faces, and Rustoleum Regal Red gloss on the box. It's held up fine. The not-so-glossy finish the box comes with is good for taking paint. I scuffed, wiped with acetone, shot it with self-etching primer, and then Rustoleum rattle can.

I wanted it to match my Craftsman boxes:

ZRX61 · Jul 28, 2010

Indy_500 said:
sandblast,

Do not do this...

bchee · Jul 28, 2010

I painted the small single drawer cart.
It was red powdercoat, not that wrinkle finish.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=855601&postcount=14

devilphrog · Jul 28, 2010

Thanks for all of the responses and the pictures. As for the sandblasting, I believe that I will take the path of least resistance involving this project as I've been getting pretty busy at work and such.

Indy_500 · Jul 28, 2010

ZRX61 said:
Do not do this...

why not??? i didn't do it so i can't say to do or not to do really but i was just giving a suggestion and am curious why it would be a bad idea. wouldn't you want to remove the bumpy paint so you can down to the smooth metal?

ZRX61 · Jul 28, 2010

Easier to just hit it with a DA...Heat from the sandblaster will deform the metal.

mrholeshot · Jul 28, 2010

I had one of the HF side boxes (all drawers) and shot it with rustoleum satin black. The wrinkle black looks really good. I had it on my Snap-On 1023 roll cab. I got it for 50 dollars so I used it. The wrinkle black looks killer

mojo_13 · Jul 28, 2010

Did mine the same way that Jack did only on a tool cart. And it came out pretty well for a first timer. I would have no problem doing it this way again, but you could spray it if you had the equipment.

Edit: I only painted the drawers black, I did not repaint the cart red. But might buy another one and try to repaint the whole thing before I assemble.

NUTTSGT · Jul 28, 2010

I'd think the wrinkle finish is what will give you the most fits. First you need to scuff the surface before you paint it for good adhesion. Then you have to wipe all the **** you just scuffed off from the wrinkle finish.

I think I would try painting the back first (if it has the same finish) to make sure everything is ok.

bchee · Jul 28, 2010

mrholeshot said:
wrinkle black looks killer

I would like to see that.

Indy_500 · Jul 29, 2010

bchee said:
I would like to see that.

Bwright has one (i think he does, i know someone does on this board), it's pretty ****

MechanicNamedJohn · Jul 29, 2010

The link to the box, $599.00??? Ouch.http://www.harborfreight.com/13-drawer-black-onyx-industrial-quality-roller-cabinet-98084.html

Tink · Jul 29, 2010

The black wrinke finish looks good on a box. I have a Penny's box from the late 70's with this finish. With the satin finish on the HF box I would probably just clean it and use a rattle can. The self etching primer wouldn't hurt.

Boost Creep · Jul 29, 2010

MechanicNamedJohn said:
The link to the box, $599.00??? Ouch.http://www.harborfreight.com/13-drawer-black-onyx-industrial-quality-roller-cabinet-98084.html

here ya go

from this catalog

68rustang · Jul 6, 2011

Jack Olsen said:
I'm lazy. I used Rustoleum satin black on the drawer faces, and Rustoleum Regal Red gloss on the box. It's held up fine. The not-so-glossy finish the box comes with is good for taking paint. I scuffed, wiped with acetone, shot it with self-etching primer, and then Rustoleum rattle can.

mojo_13 said:
Did mine the same way that Jack did only on a tool cart. And it came out pretty well for a first timer. I would have no problem doing it this way again, but you could spray it if you had the equipment.

Edit: I only painted the drawers black, I did not repaint the cart red. But might buy another one and try to repaint the whole thing before I assemble.

Did you guys remove the HF texture paint before spraying? it doesn't sound like it but I am not sure of the point of etching primer unless it was bare metal. I am probably going to pick up a few of these this week for a workbench and will probably be repainting them.

csp · Jul 6, 2011

I sanded the texture off of mine with a DA, but didn't completely take it to bare metal. Wiped it down with mineral spirits and shot it a navy blue.

There's no need for taking it to bare metal to get it smooth.

bullfrog123 · Jul 6, 2011

Repainted mine with Rustoleum rattle bombs and it turned out great. Scuffed the whole thing, wiped it down with acetone, spray away. It is still a little "textured" but not that big of a deal. Matches my C-man boxes pretty close.

myboostedgst · Jul 6, 2011

csp said:
I sanded the texture off of mine with a DA, but didn't completely take it to bare metal. Wiped it down with mineral spirits and shot it a navy blue.

There's no need for taking it to bare metal to get it smooth.

Can you post a picture? I am planning on picking up the HF box and painting the drawers black, but still hate the wrinkle finish. I would have no problem sanding it completely down and painting everything.

But I really do love blue boxes!

Sterff · Jul 7, 2011

I did mine about a year ago...

pcpro15 · Jul 7, 2011

Awesome Job Guys! Might have to do that to my HF toolbox someday

c/o say · Jul 7, 2011

Great now I'm wanting to do mine. But I want to do mine in slime green.

whelenfan · Jul 7, 2011

c/o say said:
Great now I'm wanting to do mine. But I want to do mine in slime green.

I would like to see that if you ever do it!

Jack Olsen · Jul 7, 2011

68rustang said:
Did you guys remove the HF texture paint before spraying? it doesn't sound like it but I am not sure of the point of etching primer unless it was bare metal. I am probably going to pick up a few of these this week for a workbench and will probably be repainting them.

It was the primer I had on hand. You're right in that it offers no advantage when it's used over paint (as opposed to on bare metal).

I scuffed the surface, but did not take it down to bare metal at all. The 'krinkle' surface might vary from unit to unit. Mine is/was pretty smooth.

68rustang · Jul 10, 2011

Thanks for the responses. I picked up two of the 13-drawer lowers and one of the 7-drawer side boxes Saturday. I actually don't mind the finish as it is afterall. It is nice that the side box is hooked and bolted to both lowers. I can't steer it around anymore but the wheels will be removed and a benchtop added soon anyway. Once I get done figuring out where everything is going to go I will probably go with the standard Craftsman black on red theme.

myboostedgst · Jul 25, 2011

Anyone else paint their boxes?

IBJanky · Nov 11, 2011

bullfrog123 said:
Repainted mine with Rustoleum rattle bombs and it turned out great. Scuffed the whole thing, wiped it down with acetone, spray away. It is still a little "textured" but not that big of a deal. Matches my C-man boxes pretty close.

I am thinking of buying this tool cabinet and doing the same thing.

After I scuff the red crinkle surface, do I have to spray some primer first, or can I just shoot the black Rustoleum on the drawer faces?

myke

bullfrog123 · Nov 11, 2011

IBJanky said:
I am thinking of buying this tool cabinet and doing the same thing.

After I scuff the red crinkle surface, do I have to spray some primer first, or can I just shoot the black Rustoleum on the drawer faces?

myke

I didn't do primer because I didn't take it down to bare metal. The black I used is an ag paint which takes a day or more to dry but sticks like no other. The red is just safety red Rustoleum.

88thunder · Nov 11, 2011

Perfect opportunity to shamelessly show off my toolbox i finished yesterday. Its a craftsman 3 drawer portable tool box from Costco. Came red with black drawers but since i'm not a fan of red boxes something had to be done. Removed drawers, DA'd large areas with 320 and scuffed the rest with red scotch brite. Paint is actually automotive urethane primer i tinted with universal tints to the color you see. Followed the first two coats with two "sealer" coats (reduced the same primer, added flattening agent, sprayed thinner. All exterior painting was done after the bottom and inside. Though it is "just" primer, when you leave urethane primer alone it has a very sealed surface...ie won't show oily prints (at least with this brand primer).

As a couple have asked... no need to prime over your "scuffed" painted surface. As long as the finish has the appropriate "tooth" it'll act as your primer. Though it can be done with a spray bomb, spraying with a gun will achieve much more uniform results.

marcusicp · Nov 11, 2011

88thunder said:
Perfect opportunity to shamelessly show off my toolbox i finished yesterday. Its a craftsman 3 drawer portable tool box from Costco. Came red with black drawers but since i'm not a fan of red boxes something had to be done. Removed drawers, DA'd large areas with 320 and scuffed the rest with red scotch brite. Paint is actually automotive urethane primer i tinted with universal tints to the color you see. Followed the first two coats with two "sealer" coats (reduced the same primer, added flattening agent, sprayed thinner. All exterior painting was done after the bottom and inside. Though it is "just" primer, when you leave urethane primer alone it has a very sealed surface...ie won't show oily prints (at least with this brand primer).

As a couple have asked... no need to prime over your "scuffed" painted surface. As long as the finish has the appropriate "tooth" it'll act as your primer. Though it can be done with a spray bomb, spraying with a gun will achieve much more uniform results.

Looks great! Did you just tape off the latches?

Adam McLaughlin · Nov 11, 2011

I sprayed my Matco 7XXX 60" tool box a white, used to be black.

Adam

PSYKO_Inc · Nov 12, 2011

Just wondering if anyone has tried to chem-strip the wrinkle pink finish on the HF boxes. Should go a lot quicker than sanding and no chance of warping the sheetmetal like bead blasting, just wipe it down with lacquer thinner afterwards and roll straight into etch primer.

paranoid56 · Nov 13, 2011

c/o say said:
Great now I'm wanting to do mine. But I want to do mine in slime green.

not the HF one, but a HD one lol. i was lazy so only took off the chrome handles and pulled the drawers out a bit when painting.

c/o say · Nov 13, 2011

Damm you that looks good. Some day I will do my box. Rattle can or gun.

yogitech · Nov 13, 2011

paranoid56 said:
not the HF one, but a HD one lol. i was lazy so only took off the chrome handles and pulled the drawers out a bit when painting.

That looks great! Do you have any finished pictures?

mikeceli · Nov 13, 2011

I WISH I had enough spare time, to ponder a color change, on my tool boxes!

Aspen RT · Nov 13, 2011

c/o say said:
Great now I'm wanting to do mine. But I want to do mine in slime green.

Exactly what I was thinking! :beer:

paranoid56 · Nov 16, 2011

yogitech said:
That looks great! Do you have any finished pictures?

currently no. i am in the middle of a move and escrow ****. i will try to get some when i am done. but i do think it looks nice

Painting a Harbor Freight Box

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

MEMBER EMERITUS

Well-known member

Attachments

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member