What kind of air compressor

I am looking to buy a new compressor. I prefer Ingersoll Rand. But can not find a model I like. Does any one know what model would be a upright, W/175psi? Allso what is the best motor.I was planning on putting it outside. How have you guys got the plumbing run through the walls?

Finding a model you like, and finding a IR that is two stage (175 psi) and vetical tank, are two different things. IR makes numerous different models that are vertical and two stage. What other requirements do you have? What are your CFM requirements? What do you plan to use the compressor for?

Do some searches, there are several very long threads on compressors, different brands, single stage vs two stage, location, mounting and plumbing of compressors.

Charles

If you want/need 175 psi you will have to get a 2 stage, single stage tops out around 140 psi. Several good brands to look at: Eaton, Rol-air, or Quincy, never read anything bad about these & any one will run circkes around your typical home depot type compressor. Quality don't come cheap however, the 5 hp two stage Eaton is 1132 + shipping & they go up from there, think the Quincy's go for around 2000+ but they will last more than a lifetime if taken care of. Figure out what your CFM requirements are, that will tell you how big of a motor you need, around 18-20 CFM is what the 5hp do, the 7 1/2hp do around 26 CFM, much more than that & you will need a 10 hp or need to go to 3 phase as 10 hp is the largest single phase motor I have seen. When figuring what you want to spend, make sure you figure in at least 100-200 for piping + whatever air tools you are planning on getting. Also figure in the cost of a regulator as most air tools are designed to run at 90 psi not 175.

You also need to figure in the price of your air lines. Wait until you price a 20' stick of 3/4" copper. That'll get your attention.

I have an IR 5 HP 1ph 2 stage 80 gal verticle 5 Hp unit I bought at TSC. It was an impulse buy at a 26% managers discount, $734. out the door vs. $999. plus tax. If I was doing it again I probably would have a Saylor Beal unit but if not and I did get an IR it would be the commercial unit with magnetic starter and I think (not certain) a 1725 RPM motor. Mine is 3450 rpm and no mag starter. Slower operating speed equates to less noise.

I don't know where you are located but the manual for my IR says not to operate at temperatures below 32 degrees F.

How have you guys got the plumbing run through the walls?<!-- / message -->

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Allow me to copy my post from elsewhere on this topic.

Shop Air Lines is frequently discussed so I decided to show a bit of my air line installation. I’m not saying this is the only way, nor am I saying it’s the best way to do it, I’m only offering this info as the way I did it. I have run all air lines in the walls with one exception which I will show. I used ¾” copper for the main line running 48' down the middle tucked up tight next to the wood plate between the 8" WF I-Beam and the second level 2 X 12 floor joists. There are three ¾” drops from this main line. One under the stairs to tie into the compressor and one at each end of the shop for exterior use, presumably for sand blasting at these locations outside. Off of the main line I "T"ed and reduced to ½” copper lines aimed up ~6 inches and then "T"ed again to make runs in both directions in the floor joist space to the outside wall spaces between the 2 X 6's at right angles to the main line. Once in an outside wall I "T"ed again feeding both the upper level and lower level at that point. (Sorry that this "T" is hardly visible, in the photo but it is just above the wall double plate). The drops from this point in the outside walls (there were some exceptions to this on interior walls) were rigid copper but because my upstairs sidewalls are angled (knee walls) I used soft copper for the risers to the second level wood shop and electric rooms. There were a couple of places where feeding soft copper lines worked best (Read, no room for making solder joints and it snakes thru places that were already enclosed, i.e. a blind 90. Remember that freshly annealed it feeds like electrical runs.) in the interior walls and at the East end wall so that is what I used. The branch lines were terminated with sweat 3/8" male fittings screwed into SS Eel's or Tee's. The “T” bracket was used were both sides of an interior wall fed from the same drop. The SS fittings were welded to 1/8" x 1" x 5" straps with mounting holes to secure them to 2 X 4's spanning between studs at the appropriate height. The SS fittings were bushed down to ¼” SS pipe that feeds thru the wall into the room. I have already shown the typical air outlet in an attachment in this thread where a ½” SS washer was added as a final to the opening. Okay, I thought it looked kind of nice too. I have 18 openings in all making air very accessible throughout the shop. I tested the system under pressure for a few days before enclosing any part of it. Guess what – not a single leak.

Photos; The main ¾” line above the beam, a riser and the slip joint for the final main line fit up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ranchriser.jpg

Two more risers, soft copper coming toward you (beginning of the bend is visible) where it makes a loop to feed down the wall on the right in the picture. A “T” is used on this drop to feed two rooms. The “T” riser on the right is ¾”, ¾”, ½” because it goes away form us, thru the 2 X 12 header at the top of the stairs and then drops into the space under the stairs where the compressor is located (later).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...AiroverMR1.jpg

Next is an outside wall where the “T” is only slightly visible above the wall top plate. Soft copper goes up from the “T” and rigid down to the bracketed outlet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ewwalldrop.jpg

A shot from the bathroom shows another drop from the backside of the bracketed mount. This is over a bench area on the other side of the wall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hPlumbing2.jpg

Here is one of those EXCEPTIONS I mentioned where air is fed down a post without first going thru a riser. The outlet on this post will probably be used more than any other with the possible exception of the outside ¾” line drops. A collection point that is trapped and filtered when necessary.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...LineatBeam.jpg

I would talk to the painter about sloppy work but I know he has some nice crown molding to hid the bo bo. I see I could have wiped the solder joints a little better too.

I'm adding a couple more items to round out the shop air installation (I hope). I have set up to use disconnects at each outlet and have several regulator/filter units (floaters) I can plug in where needed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Airtypical.jpg

3 Floaters shown. I have provided permenant mount regulators for items like the mister for milling machine etc.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ableAirReg.jpg

BTW, the ball valves I use are the purge type so you do not have to disconnect under pressure.

Next a shot of where the system is/will be fed from under the stairs. I have a larger 10 HP compressor but it won't fit this space so I'm looking for a 5 HP commercial unit to replace the one in the photo. A drop pipe w/drain and flex connection will complete the air hookup. The open electrical box is wired for 40 Amp 240 V which will handle the 5 HP.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r_Stairs_1.jpg

The above compressor has been replaced by a 5 HP 2 stage IR 80 gal. unit which is now installed under the stairs. It is shown here with temperory wiring - a magnetic starter is to be added.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ptempwire1.jpg

You can see the 3/4" ball valve isolating the piping system from the compressor. I used a 6 foot long 3/4" hydraulic hose for vibration isolation. Foam rubber under the compressor mount also helps to reduce vibration transmitted to the floor. Another valved quick disconnect port was installed at the tank side discharge adding one more air outlet to the system. In this final picture is shown the tank drain brought out from under the tank for easier access to purge any water from the reservoir. I do have a refrigerated air dryer for the system but at this point I am not sure it will be needed. I have had the IR compressor for ~15 months but only got it moved into position and connected 3 weeks ago - I'm real slow sometimes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...tankdrain1.jpg

My hope is that this will perhaps help someone with their garage/shop air system installation.

Steve in Mi said:

3 Floaters shown. I have provided permenant mount regulators for items like the mister for milling machine etc.

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What kind of regulators did you get and from where? Are they 3/4' or 1/2' and do you have any pics of how and where you mounted them?


Thanks,
Gary

I thought it was clear but maybe not. Typical air outlets on the wall are like this;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/ShopAirtypical.jpg

and these floaters simply pulg into the wall quick disconnects (qd) and in turn have an outlet qd to pulg a hose or whatever into.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/PortableAirReg.jpg

I don't remember the particular regulator namebrand shown. Those are 1/4" regulators in the floater photo. I have lots of regulators of many different names in my shop. You don't always find enough of one kind in an eBay auction. The Schrader ball valves with purge came close with an auction for 18.

What is it you like about IR? They are not nearly the company they used to be. Customer service and standing behind their products is not real high on their list.
Check out any of the threads here or elsewhere on the net concerning IR compressors with Emerson motors.

I just scored an old Campbell Hausfeld 20 gal horizontal with a two cylinder, single stage pump. It's rated 8.2 cfm @ 40 psi, 6.5 @ 90 psi. A bit smaller than what you are looking for, but it was $150 at a pawn shop nearby. I replaced the regulator and both gauges, changed the oil and plumbed in an additional 26 gal tank. I'm quite happy with it.

I've shopped the heck outta these things lately and find little difference in the brands. You have to look at the pump and replacement parts to see what you're getting.

Steve in Mi said:

I don't remember the particular regulator namebrand shown.

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I have a few regulators that look almost exactly like the ones you've pictured. I can check the brand name if anyone's interested.

Good post by the way.

Steve in Mi said:

Here is one of those EXCEPTIONS I mentioned where air is fed down a post without first going thru a riser. The outlet on this post will probably be used more than any other with the possible exception of the outside ¾” line drops. A collection point that is trapped and filtered when necessary.

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In this particular instance: why would you do this line like you did, esp. if this line may be used more than any other? I suppose a good trap or filter is going to take care of water, where you need it, but why not also use the piping itself for the job? That is: why not have pipe extend upwards first, before you take it down?

Vinko said:

In this particular instance: why would you do this line like you did, esp. if this line may be used more than any other? I suppose a good trap or filter is going to take care of water, where you need it, but why not also use the piping itself for the job? That is: why not have pipe extend upwards first, before you take it down?

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Air enters my manifold from above also and this outlet serves as a drain for the main trunk. It is located in a convient spot that I pass by frequently and I will be able to check on the status of the shop air (air pressure and remote switch for the compressor). Remote sw. and pilot light installation are incomplete at this time - still looking for a super deal on a magnetic starter for the compressor. I've yet to see any water at this drop but I drain condensate from the compressor tank after use.

It's OK.But I wish I got the next size up. It can run my blast cabinet, but runs the whole time that you are using the gun.

harvero said:

It's OK.But I wish I got the next size up. It can run my blast cabinet, but runs the whole time that you are using the gun.

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Whats the model listed on that pump? looks like the ss3 pump I have on mine

For piping through the walls I would use copper.

harvero said:

It's OK.But I wish I got the next size up. It can run my blast cabinet, but runs the whole time that you are using the gun.

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Even if you did get the next size up the compressor it would still run continuously that's what they do. The bigger the compressor the less time you will have to stop and wait for the compressor to pump up. I have 2 2 stage compressors that run continuously when I run my blaster. I've also run black pipe through my walls with ******* sticking out where I wanted my regulators. Don

Steve in Mi said:

I thought it was clear but maybe not. Typical air outlets on the wall are like this;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/ShopAirtypical.jpg

and these floaters simply pulg into the wall quick disconnects (qd) and in turn have an outlet qd to pulg a hose or whatever into.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/PortableAirReg.jpg

I don't remember the particular regulator namebrand shown. Those are 1/4" regulators in the floater photo. I have lots of regulators of many different names in my shop. You don't always find enough of one kind in an eBay auction. The Schrader ball valves with purge came close with an auction for 18.

Click to expand...

The regulators pictured in the link are Wilkerson brand.


RJ