How are you sealing your garage doors?

Colonial Cobra · Dec 22, 2010

I'm insulating the garage addition and the three garage doors are clearly the weak link in keeping it warm. Any neat tricks to seal up the doors better. I have the vinyl strip seals on the doors already. Just looking for something better.

Thanks
Brad

38Chevy454 · Dec 22, 2010

Not an expert, but mine have some adjustment on the tracks to make sure the door sits flush tight against the seal. I don't have any other seal besides the vinyl lip, but do have insulated doors. It does leak along the side of the door a bit and also along the bottom seal. Not sure there is a way to make it much better, hopefully someone else may have good ideas.

robertearl · Dec 22, 2010

Brush seals on the sides and the top with a good rubber seal on the bottom.

Reb

Notch1988 · Dec 22, 2010

Like 38Chevy454 said, adjust the door tracks if needed to get it tight to the wall. Mine also has a tensioning strap across the top to adjust the bow in the door so I check that in the summer and winter and adjust if needed.

e-tek · Dec 22, 2010

Yep - that's all I've done too (adjust track so door is flush on seal). I was thinking of adding ridgid foam strips along the door edge so it closes the back edge as well. But I haven't yet. For what it's worth, I live in the coldest clime on earth and the doors aren't too bad. I keep it heated 24/7 and when I want it heated up it does so quickly!

usmc_noma · Dec 22, 2010

As others have said adjust your doors. You may want to check your bottom seal and insulate your doors if they aren't already. I believe you can put a thin weatherstrip between the door panels too. When your doors are closed, check outside how the seal is between the door and your vinyl strips. If there's a lot of play back and forth you may want to adjust the doors or the strips.

NUTTSGT · Dec 22, 2010

On my old doors, long gone, I had gaps at the bottom. I cut strips of carpet and tucked them at the bottom. You can see them somewhat in this picture.

Mr.N · Dec 22, 2010

When I moved in the floor was cupped, so I couldn't adjust the door to close the gap.

I found some thick foam, glued that to the bottom of the door. Then glued the garage door seal to the foam. Have a few screws with washers in to help the glue hold the seal.
Keeps the blowing snow & wind out.

carpenter383 · Dec 22, 2010

If you can't adjust the door any further, you could add a 2nd vinyl seal over the current vinyl seals at the sides and top of the door to stop any air infiltration. Or just take the old seals off and replace/reposition them closer to the door.

fireguy · Dec 22, 2010

We had a sliding door that the wind blew through. We fixed it, we closed off the door with a new wall and a new man-door.

Mr.N · Dec 22, 2010

carpenter383 said:
If you can't adjust the door any further, you could add a 2nd vinyl seal over the current vinyl seals at the sides and top of the door to stop any air infiltration. Or just take the old seals off and replace/reposition them closer to the door.

The 2nd seal trick didn't work for me.

Zick · Dec 23, 2010

Found that the tracks on my garage doors weren't adjustable and the doors had about an 1/4"-1/2" of slack. Every time the wind blew, the doors would rattle back and forth obviously leaking air in too.
I cut some 1/4" plywood into the shape of the door brackets to "push" the door closer to the wall. Had to double up a couple but worked perfect!

e-tek · Dec 23, 2010

Zick said:
Found that the tracks on my garage doors weren't adjustable and the doors had about an 1/4"-1/2" of slack. Every time the wind blew, the doors would rattle back and forth obviously leaking air in too.
I cut some 1/4" plywood into the shape of the door brackets to "push" the door closer to the wall. Had to double up a couple but worked perfect!

That's a VERY good idea - but weird that your runenrs weren't mounted with slotted brackets....

Zick · Dec 23, 2010

Yeah they had the slots in the lower vertical tracks but the upper horizontal track didn't. They also rivited the tracks to the wall brackets instead of the putting in bolts for adjustability. They probably did that because of the top track wasn't adjustable.
I could drill out the rivits and move the bottom track inwards but then my top track wouldn't line up w/ the bottom unless it was moved inwards as well.

lilredex · Dec 23, 2010

Shimming the hinges is a good solution. The newer tracks are mounted on an angle (see pic) so that when the door comes down it gets "thrown" against the door seals. In my case, those wide vinyl jobbies, and they work very well at sealing. Another advantage of those slanted tracks is that the door moves away from the seal almost immediately and minimizes the scrubbing effect.

We don't get any of that -40* stuff here.............left that behind long ago..........

Zick · Dec 23, 2010

Mine are on an angle like that. But the other issue I had was that the bottom of the doors were sealing good except the middle and the upper were really loose.
So I couldn't move the bottom inwards anymore and if I moved the upper portion in, it would throw off the track alignment.

lilredex · Dec 23, 2010

If you need more "reach" for that bottom seal (at floor) look for a soft rubber/vinyl hose that you could put there to compensate for uneveness.

My door could use a little help there as it does not exactly fit tight against the foor.

mpraddict · Dec 24, 2010

I have the standard vinyl seals at the jambs and head on the outside, and found when the wind blows the door flexes and lets air in. This year I added brush seals on the inside that really helps keep the drafts down.

Colonial Cobra · Dec 24, 2010

mpraddict said:
I have the standard vinyl seals at the jambs and head on the outside, and found when the wind blows the door flexes and lets air in. This year I added brush seals on the inside that really helps keep the drafts down.

Can you post a picture?

mpraddict · Dec 26, 2010

Not sure how much this will help you, but here's a pic.
This works well for the jambs. I'm still looking for a better way to seal the door head.

usmc_noma · Dec 26, 2010

Do you have the brush seals on the top also? Do they sell those at the big box stores too?

ZeroSignal · Dec 30, 2010

I'm also looking for the brush seals to double up on the inside with the vinyl strips on the outside. Any tips on where to find the brush seals?

robertearl · Dec 30, 2010

sealeze.com. I used the ones that had the 45 degree mounting flange.

Reb

stafford · Dec 30, 2010

A local company quoted me 9.00 per foot for t he brush seal. I found them at Chateauproducts.com for around 14.00 per 8' plus the holders, they work really well

stafford · Dec 30, 2010

I've tried to put a picture of them on here for you.

Flange · Dec 30, 2010

Here in the UK I found this company that sells various types of seal.

usmc_noma · Dec 30, 2010

Those brush seals would do wonders on the top portion of my door. The bastards who installed the door opener never installed a brace on the top edge to keep the door straight across. Instead it pulled it inward and bent the top of my garage door a bit.

mpraddict · Dec 31, 2010

I haven't found a way to mount the brush seals at the door head on the inside that would allow the door to clear them when opened. Still looking for a more permanent solution (temporarily have roll foam insulation wedged between the door and header)....this is on garage doors that are not opened very often in the winter.

mister honey · Dec 31, 2010

I have a 9' x 7' Clopay door and a 12' x 8' Haas door in my shop.

I've used the Lowes/Home Depot exterior mount vinyl trim seals on the top & sides with good results.

The 12' x 8' door is on the windward side of the building and I've noticed that the top center panel bows in a bit and a good gust of wind will separate the top vinyl seal and top door panel for a brief cold air leak.

I've just ordered Sealeze brush seals for the inside top and inside sides of both doors. I'll let you know how they fit and function.

In my case, the Sealeze D45RCLA30BL angled brush will attach at the inside top edge of the uppermost door panel and the brush will push against the wall/header when the door is closed.

The Sealeze D445CLA09BL angled brush will mount vertically along side each side of the door and the brush will just touch the edges of the door panels.

On request, Sealeze sent 4" long samples of several different brush profiles, that I used to determine the best fit for my application.

Mike

Colonial Cobra · Dec 31, 2010

robertearl said:
sealeze.com. I used the ones that had the 45 degree mounting flange.

Reb

Cool, They are located 45 minutes from me. Looks like a good option to use behind my Vinyl seals.

gatewaysysop · Jan 2, 2011

mpraddict said:
Not sure how much this will help you, but here's a pic.
This works well for the jambs. I'm still looking for a better way to seal the door head.

I had brand new vinyl seals put on the exterior and I've just ordered a pair of these to double up on the inside. The outside vinyl seal seems pretty good but, like others have noted, I also got some wind blowing through during strong gusts when the door was bowed in slightly.

I don't know about the top, I haven't had an issue there but I'll see what I can do when the brush seals come in. I believe they include a piece for the top but I don't know how well it will work on the interior.

Thanks for posting about these, definitely what I was looking for. :thumbup:

ZeroSignal · Jan 3, 2011

gatewaysysop said:
I had brand new vinyl seals put on the exterior and I've just ordered a pair of these to double up on the inside. The outside vinyl seal seems pretty good but, like others have noted, I also got some wind blowing through during strong gusts when the door was bowed in slightly.

I don't know about the top, I haven't had an issue there but I'll see what I can do when the brush seals come in. I believe they include a piece for the top but I don't know how well it will work on the interior.

Thanks for posting about these, definitely what I was looking for.

Just Curious which ones did you order?

billspit · Jan 3, 2011

Zick said:
Found that the tracks on my garage doors weren't adjustable and the doors had about an 1/4"-1/2" of slack. Every time the wind blew, the doors would rattle back and forth obviously leaking air in too.
I cut some 1/4" plywood into the shape of the door brackets to "push" the door closer to the wall. Had to double up a couple but worked perfect!

I had to replace the bottom of the post between my double doors and now one door doesn't seal right. The track is not adjustible without a bunch of effort. So I'm going to try what you've done.

johno · Jan 3, 2011

From what i see here all these doors are sectional.
Mine ( rental) are one piece doors, that swing up overhead.
Has anyone experience sealing the side of these, would the brush seals work?

These brush seals they attach to building , not the door, is that correct?

Charles (in GA) · Jan 3, 2011

stafford said:
I've tried to put a picture of them on here for you.

Thats a sheet type roll up door is it not? It does not look like a sectional type garage door.

Charles

GreyOwl · Jan 4, 2011

mpraddict said:
I haven't found a way to mount the brush seals at the door head on the inside that would allow the door to clear them when opened. Still looking for a more permanent solution (temporarily have roll foam insulation wedged between the door and header)....this is on garage doors that are not opened very often in the winter.

Mount the brush seal to the door itself so it seals against the header when it closes.

Charles

Davd_Pa · Jan 4, 2011

For the bottom there is a metal track system that you basically bolt to the bottom of the door. The there is the rubber seal that is flat, but is bent into a u shape by sliding it into the groves on the metal track. it basically makes a big rubber U that is smashed onto the ground and make s a great seal. I think i got mine at lowes. It cost a few bucks but less than 50 and was well worth it to seal the garage up!

There is also an outside seal that screws into the outside wall and has a rubber flap type that covers the door from the outside. They need replaced ever 20 years or so, but i think are worth it and do make a difference. again they can be purchased at the big stores in long lengths that just need cut to size.

Also be careful if you have a two car garage w/only a spring on one side. These are risky type of doors and when the spring goes, they will drip the door to one side and can be very dangerous. They only made this type for a few years in the late 80's and early 90's and have (thank God) stopped making them. I know this b/c i was trying to adjust my garage door and it was a catastrophe.

Dave

Big N8 · Jan 4, 2011

Zick said:
Yeah they had the slots in the lower vertical tracks but the upper horizontal track didn't. They also rivited the tracks to the wall brackets instead of the putting in bolts for adjustability. They probably did that because of the top track wasn't adjustable.
I could drill out the rivits and move the bottom track inwards but then my top track wouldn't line up w/ the bottom unless it was moved inwards as well.

This is how the door should look. The adjustment for the top track is at the top of the track to the left side of this pic.

I see adjustment for your door in the pic. most likely the installer didn't place the outside door seals on correctly.

dipper · Jan 4, 2011

mister honey said:
I have a 9' x 7' Clopay door and a 12' x 8' Haas door in my shop.

I've used the Lowes/Home Depot exterior mount vinyl trim seals on the top & sides with good results.

The 12' x 8' door is on the windward side of the building and I've noticed that the top center panel bows in a bit and a good gust of wind will separate the top vinyl seal and top door panel for a brief cold air leak.

I've just ordered Sealeze brush seals for the inside top and inside sides of both doors. I'll let you know how they fit and function.

In my case, the Sealeze D45RCLA30BL angled brush will attach at the inside top edge of the uppermost door panel and the brush will push against the wall/header when the door is closed.

The Sealeze D445CLA09BL angled brush will mount vertically along side each side of the door and the brush will just touch the edges of the door panels.

On request, Sealeze sent 4" long samples of several different brush profiles, that I used to determine the best fit for my application.

Mike

That is exactly what i need too. I get small amounts of snow blowing in the side's when it is windy and blowing. I'll have to order some of those.
Thanks for the link and part #'s.

ZeroSignal · Jan 4, 2011

What are the differences in the Sealeze light duty brushes vs. the standard duty? Curious before I order.

How are you sealing your garage doors?

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member