sickytwisted
Well-known member
I've got a few tools which have lost their insulation. 1 is a Crescent adjustable and the other is a pair of channel locks. Is there a product which really works?
Anybody had any look re-gripping/re-insulating pliers or any other tool?
- Thread starter sickytwisted
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metaleltr
Well-known member
Ive used Plasti Dip here and there works well but takes a long time to build up a nice thick coat. I have only found black in stock at the stores. I wish they would carry channellock blue and maybe lime green or orange. You can order any color though.
I also want to try and go over existing rubber handles to save some time but make the tool look new. I have yet to try it but I cant see any reason why it wouldnt work.
I also want to try and go over existing rubber handles to save some time but make the tool look new. I have yet to try it but I cant see any reason why it wouldnt work.
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I've got a bunch of vintage Channellock / Champion DeArment tools that are about to get re-handled via Plasti Dip "Create your Color":
I'm really glad they came out with this product, because now it will be easier to match various off-color handles... like Channellock blue.
I'm really glad they came out with this product, because now it will be easier to match various off-color handles... like Channellock blue.
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OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
How many coats mr nasty?
metaleltr
Well-known member
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
Oh wait, do you mean that you have to pull the pliers out slowly?
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John316
Well-known member
I've got a bunch of vintage Channellock / Champion DeArment tools that are about to get re-handled via Plasti Dip "Create your Color":
I'm really glad they came out with this product, because now it will be easier to match various off-color handles... like Channellock blue.
I would love to see how it turns out!
This stuff is just thick paint is nowhere near the same as factory coatings. It's not the least bit durable nor is it solvent resistant. It's a short lived repair.
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
Any other suggestions? The grip on the channel locks is completely gone.
That's because the CodeBlue andles are over-molded on. The others are dipped in a single coat of what basically amounts to industrial Plasti-Dip. As for solvent resistance, I've never had any issues *yet*, although in all fairness, I don't generally expose my tools to harsh solvents.
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OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
I thought most handles were dipped on similarly to what one would do with that dip stuff. I think I saw it happen that way on "how it works." Idfk. Got any pics steven?
John316
Well-known member
Check out this video around the 45 second mark
This seems to be a compilation of videos Channellock has released on their manufacturing process. They definitely dip the handles to add the blue grip coating.
This seems to be a compilation of videos Channellock has released on their manufacturing process. They definitely dip the handles to add the blue grip coating.
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
I have had great success with the Platic Dip. Make sure the handles are CLEAN (I also scuff them) and dip in and out SLOWLY. Takes about 6+ iterations but it builds up each time if you do it slowly.
woody 73
Well-known member
Now that my head is better (after the wrech mishap) and the room has stopped spinning you should look into these products:
Klein-Koat Tenite handles A fantastic handle from Klein tools.
The 6" will run you about $7.75 dollars.
The 7" is around $8.00 dollars.
The 8" & 9" will cost around $8.50 dollars.
Expensive yes but they will last you a lifetime.
Plastic dip is also very good but be careful over the years if I you have oil on your hands (and I mean a lot of oil); it tends to dissolve the plastic dip.
Hope this helps you out.
Woody
Klein-Koat Tenite handles A fantastic handle from Klein tools.
The 6" will run you about $7.75 dollars.
The 7" is around $8.00 dollars.
The 8" & 9" will cost around $8.50 dollars.
Expensive yes but they will last you a lifetime.
Plastic dip is also very good but be careful over the years if I you have oil on your hands (and I mean a lot of oil); it tends to dissolve the plastic dip.
Hope this helps you out.
Woody
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Is that based on actual experience? I guess I got lucky with the tools I dipped about 30 years ago. Most of the grips on them are still completely usable.
Another prep tip. before dipping, and after cleaning, hit the grip area with a Propane torch long enough to see the moisture form, then evaporate. This insures the absolute minimum of peel or risk of rust/out gassing that can cause the stuff to come off. You can dip them warm, but I'd not suggest doing it still hot. (This also works well for painting stuff too, especially with rattle cans)
As to it's electrical insulation properties, I'd check on that closely for anything around high voltage.
rlitman
Well-known member
THIS is the best option, if you can get them to fit. Drop them in boiling water to get them soft, and then force them on the handle. Lubricate the handle with hair spray if required.
I've used plasti-dip with some success, but 2-3 coats only builds up to a film hardly thicker than latex paint, and as you add more coats, you get a bigger drip mark at the bottom, even if you leave the tool to hang for a couple of minutes, and then clamp it upside down to dry.
I haven't yet dipped the old Channellocks. The other dipped handle was removed when I prepped the tools below, simply because I want all the handles to match.
The Code Blue series is overmolded. I assumed the others were as well, but by the look of the regular ones, it doesn't surprise me that they are dipped.
Alan Douglas
Well-known member
If you google "vinyl plastisol dip" you'll find a number of hits that describe the process. I used to do it where I work, coating magnets that had to stand salt water. The vinyl we used was yellow and I only remember it came from a company in Providence, RI on King Philip Road. You heat the parts to 400 degrees F, dip for 30 seconds which gels the vinyl to a certain thickness, let the liquid drain off and then back in the oven to cure. The cured vinyl is extremely tough.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
contactme_11
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 106
If heat is used in the curing process in factories, I wonder if you could duplicate the process with plastidip in a conventional oven at relatively low temperatures. Like under 200f. Thoughts?
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
Those don't look bad at all.
chickenfarmer
Well-known member
I've never used the plasti dip but I've seen yellow, blue, red, and black at family farm and home
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Steven, please post pics when you get them dipped!
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
What he said^^^
ArkTinkerer
Well-known member
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- Dec 29, 2010
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Anyone try adding a layer of heat shrink before dipping? Never tried it but it would be a more durable material and add thickness if the plastic coat will stick to it.
ArkTinkerer
ArkTinkerer
Outlawmws
Well-known member
You may want to test this on some heat shrink by itself before trying on a tool. Plasti dip has several highly volatile solvents in it and these may eat the heat shrink.
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BloodySinner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2011
- Messages
- 169
I've got a bunch of vintage Channellock / Champion DeArment tools that are about to get re-handled via Plasti Dip "Create your Color":
I'm really glad they came out with this product, because now it will be easier to match various off-color handles... like Channellock blue.
I learn something new each time I visit this site. Glad I'm a GJ member.
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
Where do I find those?
topher_csr
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2011
- Messages
- 27
your not going to hurt anything with Plasti-dip, it will peal right off if you pick at it. i just used their spray plasti-dip, for my wheels and they have been holding up well over the last few weeks. i just did the second coat on a pair of needle nose plylers this morning and i should dip the last coat tonight. i did it over the dirty HF orange grips though so it should be thick enough.
camarotoolman
Banned
I think Channel lock will warrents the plastic, they might give you a new one? worth a try, all they can do is say no.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Frank, Have to used PD over top of the heat shrink?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I did that over a pair of Crescent lineman's pliers about 30 years ago. while PD over clean metal handles lasted pretty well generally, the lineman's plies coating peeled off after only a couple of years. YMMV
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
I don't know why they would and I'm having trouble finding their warranty information. Unless this is all that they have to say about their warranty policy...
CHANNELLOCK, INC WARRANTY/ RETURNS POLICY
ALL CLAIMS FOR BROKEN TOOL REPLACEMENT ARE SUBJECT TO DECISION OF CHANNELLOCK, INC
Merchandise must be returned prepaid for inspection.
CAUSES FOR REJECTION OF CLAIMS
•
Wear and tear as a result of much service.
•
Damage from alterations or tampering.
•
Damage from contact with hot wires.
•
Breakage from abuse or overload, or after normal wear.
•
Damage to teeth or cutting edges resulting from use on hardened material or tempered steel wire.
Please return tools to: Channellock, Inc
11372 Mercer Pike
Meadville PA, 16335
ATTN: Return Tools
The information contained in this electronic message is confidential. This message is intended only for the use of the person or firm to which it is addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this transmission in error, please notify us immediately by telephone.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I use 2 layers of heat shrink on the handles of lock picks. Gives a good grip and they don't dig into my hands.
OP
sickytwisted
Well-known member
I'm prolly going to try the shrink tubing.