mitusa
Well-known member
I need a handle for a Reed 203. And a swivel base for the same. The base has cracked and repaired and cracked again.
Thanks for any help....
Thanks for any help....
The Unofficial Vise Parts Swap Thread.
- Thread starter spongerich
- Start date
wed4life
Active member
I need a front collar for a 39X Parker.
Thanks, David
Thanks, David
darkk
Well-known member
Hi guys - I just got a Prentiss Bulldog No.96 vise today - and would like to know if anyone has the swivel base which is about 10" across the bottom of the vise itself - then, I am missing the handle which has an opening of 1 1/4"
I hope my photos come out here.
Thank you - I appreciate it.
I hope my photos come out here.
Thank you - I appreciate it.
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dgmpam
Active member
I am looking for the swivel jaw tapered locking pin for a Morgan Chicago #335. Thanks.
Dave Marshall
Dave Marshall
Cyclotronguy
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2010
- Messages
- 31
I bought one of the last 335's from Morgan.......could do a drawing of the taper pin.
[email protected]
[email protected]
I pulled out my old coumbian no 44 vise today that I broke a few years ago. I am in need of the front jaw or slider, the side is broke off and will not let it tighten up. Tried to show in the pic where it is broke at... Thanks
toomanytoyzz
Well-known member
Awesome thread
!! I can't tell you how many times I've passed on certain vises because of missing parts or damage. Now I'll have to use these faults as a negotiation tool
.
I am looking for a swivel base for a Morgan Chicago #140 I just picked up the other day. I have some vise related stuff/parts to trade along with the cabbage to buy. Here's a pic of the jem.
!! I can't tell you how many times I've passed on certain vises because of missing parts or damage. Now I'll have to use these faults as a negotiation tool.I am looking for a swivel base for a Morgan Chicago #140 I just picked up the other day. I have some vise related stuff/parts to trade along with the cabbage to buy. Here's a pic of the jem.
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Catalyze
Well-known member
Too - I keep seeing those Kurt machinist vise bases for sale on Ebay....I keep wondering if one of those would fit any vise that I own. I have a 505 1/2 Columbian that I would love to make swivel and maybe one of those Kurt bases would work.
Craig
Craig
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I pulled out my old coumbian no 44 vise today that I broke a few years ago. I am in need of the front jaw or slider, the side is broke off and will not let it tighten up. Tried to show in the pic where it is broke at... Thanks
That is actually fixable. I recently repaired one broken almost exactly like that just as a demo for how to approach it:
On Pg. 229 of the vise thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2389369&postcount=4568
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2389374&postcount=4569
By all rights it should not be alive and working but it is (as a Zombie Vise...)
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Great Idea there. I wish I could do that but over time I have lost the broken piece and can not find it now.. Just my luck
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Great Idea there. I wish I could do that but over time I have lost the broken piece and can not find it now.. Just my luck
If you look at my pics close, I didn't weld the broken bits in. I welded the slide into the remnants of the socket it was supposed to be in. Almost 1/2 the socket sides were gone...
droach77
Active member
I had a good day at the garage/estate sales yesterday. Picked up a Emmert Pattern Maker's Vise for (I believe it is a type 1 U-5 model) for $38 bucks and at another sale a 60 lb, REED 204 vise for $10. Both are in great shape, with no welds, cracks or repairs.
I can't decide whether to sell/trade the things (I am looking for BOB CAT, Truth or old Walden Worcester stuff) or maybe attempt the restoration route. I have seen some nice looking restorations on threads here and wonder how its done.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I can't decide whether to sell/trade the things (I am looking for BOB CAT, Truth or old Walden Worcester stuff) or maybe attempt the restoration route. I have seen some nice looking restorations on threads here and wonder how its done.
Any advice would be appreciated.
toomanytoyzz
Well-known member
Yeah, I've seen them as well. They want some good money for them. I have an older Japanese vise I may rob the base from and give the vise to my cousin who needs one. It's a 360 degree swivel base.
hm6d
Member
HELP!!! I need the screw collar for a Parker 954 or a drawing plan,
Thanks-Mike
Thanks-Mike
Outlawmws
Well-known member
This comes up often enough, that if there is anyone on GJ that does home casting (yes, people are doing this, sort of re-making American Iron making capacity on a miniscule scale... I belong to a casting group, even though I'm not doing it... Yet...
), and if these are standard across the models, some could be recast from a sample... I'd bet that even if they aren't std. there is only a couple of sizes...localscrapper713
Member
Great topic !!!! I'm wondering if someone has a vintage end cap for my No.60 wilton vise.
I need some jaw inserts and a swivel lock handle bar for a Yost 32 Machinist Vise, also need the center bolt in the bottom. Mine is broken and I need to drill it out.
I have Simplex drill press vise parts for trade, cash or paypal. PM me if you have anything or need a Simplex part.
I have Simplex drill press vise parts for trade, cash or paypal. PM me if you have anything or need a Simplex part.
BullfrogJohnson
Well-known member
I'm looking for a set of jaw inserts for my Columbian 604 1/2
Thanks
Thanks
Are they the older "T" style held in with pins or do they mount with 2 screws?
BullfrogJohnson
Well-known member
2 screws. I found some on ViseParts.com, but wanted to see if anyone one on here had some or make them.
WallynSC
Well-known member
I need the main nut for a Prentiss Bulldog #90, what do you think the odds of finding one?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
back again, I need a swivel base for a Columbian 43 1/2, along with the swivel adjuster handle.
I'm going to guess here, but I would guess that a Craftsman 3-1/2" vise of that style would use the same swivel base?
What is the OD of the main body interface to the base? I can measure mine.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Wally, what is the screw diameter and thread pitch needed? I think it will be tough to find one, but making one if its a std. acme thread should be doable. do you have the busted parts to use as a pattern?
You are absolutely correct Outlaw, I have a Craftsman 506-51801 and I just checked the base. The base on the Crasftman is even cast 43 1/2 on bottom, it is a direct fit. Broadens my search some, the diameter of the plate is about 4-1/4" if anyone has one!
WallynSC
Well-known member
The screw is Acme I'll measure and count threads tomorrow. It looks like it will have to soak a while to get the nut out, it is in the body and split open all the way down the length of the threads.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That should increase your odds of finding one considerably! (I'd guess Craftsman sold 50 for every one sold as a Colombian)
WallynSC
Well-known member
Outlaw, I still don't have the nut out, more soaking, I will get it. The main screw measures .760" x 5TPI. Does that sound right?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Are you sure about the .760? I would suspect .750, but since they didn't stick with the tread pitch either it's somewhat of a moot point...
For 3/4 (.750) thread Diameter, Acme uses 8 TPI. 5 is used at 1"...
I suppose both the screw and the nut could be fabricated, using std acme all thread, and a coupler as the base materials. 8TPI would also increase the pressures generated, (at the cost of a somewhat slower rate if spinning the jaw in and out)
Your call on what you are wanting to spend in $$ and effort, and what your fabrication capacities are; Unless you get lucky with a part...WallynSC
Well-known member
Are you sure about the .760? I would suspect .750, but since they didn't stick with the tread pitch either it's somewhat of a moot point...
For 3/4 (.750) thread Diameter, Acme uses 8 TPI. 5 is used at 1"...
I suppose both the screw and the nut could be fabricated, using std acme all thread, and a coupler as the base materials. 8TPI would also increase the pressures generated, (at the cost of a somewhat slower rate if spinning the jaw in and out)
View media item 22869
View media item 22867
Go over thread counting with me, I'm learning here. I know picture could be better.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Actually, if I'm reading the scale correctly, I get 4 TPI. start at the 1st thread edge as 0, then I'm seeing 1/4" per thread and at 1" it's 4 threads...
The calipers are ones you are confident of? Also if the threads are worn some, there might be a slight lip pushed out on the pressure edges, so try with the narrow part of the caliper tips on the center of the thread if you can. (might be difficult, since they are a moving target laterally...)
The calipers are ones you are confident of? Also if the threads are worn some, there might be a slight lip pushed out on the pressure edges, so try with the narrow part of the caliper tips on the center of the thread if you can. (might be difficult, since they are a moving target laterally...)
WallynSC
Well-known member
I checked a 1 2 3 block, and then measured the way you suggested, and it is damn close to .750. So what does that mean? I have a friend with a welding shop, maybe he can weld the old one. If not maybe somebody here needs some parts. It is so easy to put more into these refurb jobs than they are worth.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Well the nut MIGHT be heated and bent down where it belongs and the break welded from the outside, (I'd do the bending screw tip in place, and once clamped unscrew it, then weld), but I can't say whether that would hold up long term. I doubt there it room inside the slide for extra material to wrap around the damaged nut to insure strength.
If you want this fixed, I think it's either find a part, or buy the raw acme parts and make a screw and nut, (probably about as easy to do that as to repair the nut...)
If thats more $$ & time than it's worth, then it's parts.
If you want this fixed, I think it's either find a part, or buy the raw acme parts and make a screw and nut, (probably about as easy to do that as to repair the nut...)
If thats more $$ & time than it's worth, then it's parts.
WallynSC
Well-known member
Thanks for hanging with me through my learning process
