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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

Wingnut65

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Tampa Bay, FL
Congrats on getting the White Unicorn into the stable.

I didn't know the horn of a White Unicorn originally had a bakelite knob on it? Wow, the things I learn here!
 
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carbons4

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Jan 19, 2012
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Thanks for the info. Your 20" scroll saw looks great. Hardly ever see all the bright work in that good of shape.
 

carbons4

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"Thanks guys, I am both humbled and amazed at your kind and encouraging words. Humbled because I feel like I don't deserve them and amazed because if anyone saw the garage 95% of the time, I'm sure they'd be horrified.........."

And like all of us have a perfect shop all the time????????? Mine is a big Rubiks cube most of the time. But if you actually work in them they do get messy.
No your preservation of a great moment in time in our country and trying to be accurate on your restorations gets you the nod. Like I correct my wife at times
when she will point something out. There is retro and there is accurate, most the time retro is not accurate. You are preserving real MADE IN USA tools that will last you and your childrens lifetimes if they are taken care of. Something we will never see again. Sir, I salute you.
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Ultima Ratio, Wa.
R.L., congratulations on your capture of the 'White Unicorn', with a little help from your OWWM friends. Now that the W.U. lives in your domain, what's next on the wish list? Is there a 'Golden Fleece' over the horizon that needs to be in your shop?
 
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Red Leader

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Now that the W.U. lives in your domain, what's next on the wish list? Is there a 'Golden Fleece' over the horizon that needs to be in your shop?

There is indeed. This one might not actually be as rare as that scroll saw, but extremely rare nonetheless.




Craftsmantablesaw-vi.jpg


This was the first cabinet-style saw that Craftsman made. It was only made for two years (1940-1941) and then discontinued, just like the 20" scroll saw. As you can see, the base is the same art deco style as similar machine bases that Craftsman offered around the same time under the Craftsman and Companion names.

It is a 9" table saw made for Craftsman by Atlas. It is somewhat of a hybrid saw, because it consists of 3 main parts, the cabinet base, a cast iron trunnion 'frame', and then the table. I really like the design because it is the best of both worlds. A cabinet saw, according to the definition of some, means that the 'guts' of the saw hang from the sheet metal base and the table bolts onto the base as well. A contractor style saw has the guts attach to the underside of the table. I tend to think that the under-the-table mounting is more precise as you have a precision ground surface meeting another precision ground surface versus using the sheet metal cabinet base as a 'go-between' and thereby creating tolerance stacking.

Because this saw has a cast iron 'frame' that the trunnions mount to, that piece mounts to the sheet metal base of the saw, but then the cast iron top mounts directly to this piece instead of the sheet metal. It is a genius design. Here is a picture of what I am talking about, from a gentleman that was restoring one a couple years ago:

001-3.jpg


The serial number for this saw is 101.02180. If you ever happen to come across this saw, I would be VERY interested in hearing from you. I passed on one about a year and some ago and I probably shouldn't have. I have seen 1 other in a Craigslist ad before, so I know they are out there.
 
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Red Leader

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Congrats on getting the White Unicorn into the stable.

I didn't know the horn of a White Unicorn originally had a bakelite knob on it? Wow, the things I learn here!

Thanks for the info. Your 20" scroll saw looks great. Hardly ever see all the bright work in that good of shape.

RL,

Great looking scroll saw...congrats on landing that beauty...and thanks to the team it took to real that one in.

Shaun

Thanks fellas! I'm looking forward to using it!

I'm thinking that the knob may have been bakelite, but at the very least it was probably some type of plastic. The only other 20" scroll saw I found (power bronze, attached work light) was also missing this knob, which tells me that it was probably easily broken or pulled off and lost.
 
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Red Leader

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Alright, finally!

Workbench Update!!!

So what was stopping me from moving forward with the workbench was getting the doors attached. I wanted to find some nice looking hinges for them. I actually found some on Etsy, nonetheless, and was waiting a few days for some paypal $$ to come in to purchase them. Well, I took a stroll by the local ReStore and what do you know? They had 4 of the exact same hinges I was looking at on Etsy! They were in completely different locations within the store, too.

So armed with, well, hinges, the work progressed.

First up, cabinet doors.





And, well, I'm dumb. I used my sanded plywood for the doors to match the plywood cabinet sides (same wood) and of course the cut was off. I was dumbfounded. I measured and measured.

Here's the throwaway pile:sad::headshake

P4273596-vi.jpg



So what the heck was the problem?



It was this!!!!!

P4273593-vi.jpg


This stupid POS must have been made on a Friday because when I set it to 90 degrees (it has a detent for 45 and 90) is was visibly 'off' when examined more closely. Dang it:D

So I pulled out the Atlas miter gauge I had for the cabinet saw and used it instead:

P4273594-vi.jpg


Not only did this one hold to a true 90, it actually fit better in the slot than the actual Craftsman one! Maybe I should just keep it:)

I had to remake the doors 3 times to get them where I wanted them, unfortunately using a lower grade of plywood. The good news is that I will still be able to smooth them out before finishing them, it will just take a little more work. Here are the correctly cut doors:

P4273595-vi.jpg


Here is prepping the cabinet for the install:

P4273597-vi.jpg



Here are those cool hinges I found at the ReStore!

P4273598-vi.jpg




I also mocked up the hardware installation to see how everything would look attached. I will take it all back apart to do the finish work.

P4273599-vi.jpg



And whala!

P4273601-vi.jpg


P4273602-vi.jpg




To be honest it looks like **** right now, but that is okay because now that the doors are on I can start outlining and attaching the art deco trim lines on the cabinet faces. Then it will start to get a little more fancy schmancy:) I really need to get my bandsaw up and running so I can resaw that 1x3 I picked up with the insane grain and use that as trim pieces on the front posts. Now that will look cool...I hope:D


Next up, filling out the workbench top so I can prep for sanding.


P4303663-vi.jpg


This shot gives a good perspective of behind the workbench. Now, because I have those concrete footers all around the garage perimeter, it means that the work bench legs are stopped about 4 inches before the whole back side of the workbench contacts the wall. Therefore, I need to 'build out' with the workbench top so that when the legs make contact with the footer, the table is against the wall. All in all, takes about the thickness of 5 pieces.

Kinda like....



This!

P4303667-vi.jpg



As you can also see, I doubled up on the vertical supports to add more rigidity and attachment points to the art deco facades that will be capping those stringers.

P4303666-vi.jpg




And HERE is what my garage really looks like! :lol:

P4303669-vi.jpg

(PS - Bob, that sander is AWESOME! So smooth!!!)

I got both outboard sides done. Only thing left is to do the middle up to the point where a slate board attached up behind the stringers will make contact with the top. It will be about 3 board thicknesses.


Up next is the middle section, the table sanding, and the art deco lines. Should start getting a little more fun out there:thumbup:

Thanks for watching!

-RL
 
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Red Leader

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Thanks Shaun! It is agonizingly slow, but it is coming together.

I think tonight I will try and get the middle section attached on to the workbench, that way it will be ready for sanding soon!

Also, I have been coming up with some fun ideas for the workbench header after getting a little inspiration from this:

HappinessIYHpg6.jpg


While the tools are just thrown around the center of the room, the cabinets look awesome. I am really digging the way that the tool board is inset and it is giving me some inspiration for the lighting of my workbench.

I don't want to post any pictures of what I'm coming up with because I kinda want it to be a surprise. In reality I'm just making more work for myself. But I'll tell ya, the smartest thing I did was put casters on the bottom of that workbench, because if I ever move I'm taking that sucker with me!!! :D
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Napa Valley, California
He's finally building the bench! Hey, everybody, he's finally building the bench! I've been waiting for this all winter...looking forward to seeing the final bench (just a side note...I've FINISHED building a bench I didn't even know I was going to need way back when you planned that bench. Just sayin'. ;-)

M_P
 

ckadams00

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Seattle, WA
Hey Red Leader the bench is looking good! I have to say I am close to having my Cman cabinet saw completed and the miter is um, interesting . . .because it could take years to get accurate. I am thinking the best thing is to NOT use it as a miter, and measure cuts when needed - otherwise spend a lot of time getting it perfect. Glad you demonstrated this before me!:willy_nil

BTW why in the world do you want a 9" saw with a great 10" already in your garage?
 
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SpeedinLemon

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Oct 23, 2011
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North Texas
He's finally building the bench! Hey, everybody, he's finally building the bench! I've been waiting for this all winter...looking forward to seeing the final bench (just a side note...I've FINISHED building a bench I didn't even know I was going to need way back when you planned that bench. Just sayin'. ;-)

M_P

Hey!! Lay off our man Red Leader! He's not only been planning and executing one of the coolest garages anywhere, he's also responsible for educating the masses on all manner of vintage American made, quality, artistic and functional woodworking tools. It's a big job and I know I've gained a tremendous appreciation of this golden era of tool making as a result of his work.

Don't take me too seriously though..l'm just bustin your chops a little. That bench you made for your press brake is a thing of functional beauty in it's own right!

All that being said...I've been anxiously awaiting RL's bench as well....so kick it gear and finish that sucker! I know it will be great....you've set the bar very high for yourself in everything you've done so far!:beer:
 

tinbender 66

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Mar 23, 2011
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Western Washington State
That'll be the bench to end all benches:thumbup:.

Those door handles are perfecto. I have a big pile of hinges like that that you can have if you want. They are more of a bronze color though. I'll take a pic if you wanna see them.
 
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Red Leader

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I know it will be great....you've set the bar very high for yourself in everything you've done so far!:beer:

You might as well say I've shot myself in the foot:lol:



I appreciate your thoughts, though. I'm glad it is creating some excitement. I can see the finished product in my head and it is definitely worth all the work!

-RL
 
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Red Leader

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He's finally building the bench! Hey, everybody, he's finally building the bench! I've been waiting for this all winter...looking forward to seeing the final bench (just a side note...I've FINISHED building a bench I didn't even know I was going to need way back when you planned that bench. Just sayin'. ;-)

M_P


Yeah, but mine has art deco...trim-y...stuff. There!


:lol_hitti


Haha, all kidding aside by the time I get done with this thing it will span two presidential terms. Whoa.

:)
 
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Red Leader

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Hey Red Leader the bench is looking good! I have to say I am close to having my Cman cabinet saw completed and the miter is um, interesting . . .because it could take years to get accurate. I am thinking the best thing is to NOT use it as a miter, and measure cuts when needed - otherwise spend a lot of time getting it perfect. Glad you demonstrated this before me!:willy_nil

Yeah, if yours is from Emerson like mine and has the newer miter, might as well just throw that hunk o' junk out right now. It really deserves a mention with the 'duds' post I made. I might have to edit it, haha. I'll try and take a picture so all can see what I am talking about. At 90 degrees, it is visibly off. Sad day.

BTW why in the world do you want a 9" saw with a great 10" already in your garage?

Because it's cool:cool: (and rare and nobody has one and I'm a sucker for it:D)
 

Wingnut65

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Great to have you back in the shop, Red Leader. Great to see progress again. I too, can't wait to see the final outcome.

I have gotten in the habit of always checking my miter saw angle and any miter gauges I'm using after one bad experience. Sounds like you will be doing the same. But that is how we earn 'Good Judgement'.!
 

flybefree

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That is a LOT of sanding...what are you going to use on that?

Loved the photo of the shop full of tools and the happy couple...so nice.

Shaun
 
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Red Leader

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That is a LOT of sanding...what are you going to use on that?


Shaun

why din't you hand plane the bench first to take out some of the girth then sand?

Yes, it is a lot for sure. The problem was that I didn't have my planer up and running so I couldn't run the boards through it and true them up. So one edge was a few hundredths/thousands wider than the other, so when stacking, they started to curve. I compensated a little by staggering the top surface, knowing that I would level it, but again, not ideal. With the right tools, it would have been much easier! Check that one off as learned for the future!

Regarding the plane, I would probably use one if I had one:D, but the belt sander is going to make QUICK work out of any unevenness. The boards are pine and it will rip through them really quick. To be honest, I'll have to be careful that I don't take too much off.

That will be up next!!!! Stay tuned!!!
 

egnorant

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Well, I finally got electricity to my shop/storage building and have begun its conversion to a full shop. As I researched my old Craftsman toolbox I discovered this!!

My box is a smaller version of the box a few dozen pages ago but has a different badge...kinda crown top rather than the oval shown. Guy I got it from said he bought it new in 1957 and worked at Kenray Ford in Dallas. Any help on the different badge?

This will be my new favorite site for a while.

Bruce Lowry and his Dad and Granddads tools.

P.S. found another post here that states that my box is 1959 at the earliest. Another site stated that the date of manufacture is stamped on the inside of the lowest drawer behind the logo. Mine are stamped 58 on the upper box and 59 on the lower.
 
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mdbeck1

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Yes, it is a lot for sure. The problem was that I didn't have my planer up and running so I couldn't run the boards through it and true them up. So one edge was a few hundredths/thousands wider than the other, so when stacking, they started to curve. I compensated a little by staggering the top surface, knowing that I would level it, but again, not ideal. With the right tools, it would have been much easier! Check that one off as learned for the future!

Regarding the plane, I would probably use one if I had one:D, but the belt sander is going to make QUICK work out of any unevenness. The boards are pine and it will rip through them really quick. To be honest, I'll have to be careful that I don't take too much off.

That will be up next!!!! Stay tuned!!!

Even with a decent belt sander that's going to take a while. ...and be tough to get it flat.

A couple years ago I saw some pictures of a guy with a similar problem. He took two boards and mounted them to both sides of the bench (must be level and flat). He then made a jig for a router. The jig was a platform about 12 inches wide and four feet long. He cut a slot in the center with the router and would clamp the sides down on the bench. Then he ran the router back and forth to level out the cabinet top and moved the guide over one width and did it again. It went pretty quick and made a fairly smooth surface to start sanding from.

If that's not too clear let me know and I'll see if I can draw you a diagram.
 
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Red Leader

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Even with a decent belt sander that's going to take a while. ...and be tough to get it flat.

A couple years ago I saw some pictures of a guy with a similar problem. He took two boards and mounted them to both sides of the bench (must be level and flat). He then made a jig for a router. The jig was a platform about 12 inches wide and four feet long. He cut a slot in the center with the router and would clamp the sides down on the bench. Then he ran the router back and forth to level out the cabinet top and moved the guide over one width and did it again. It went pretty quick and made a fairly smooth surface to start sanding from.

If that's not too clear let me know and I'll see if I can draw you a diagram.

I know exactly what you are talking about! I've read up on it a while back. I may end up doing that. I have the router...I would just need to make the channels and the edge supports. I forgot all about that.

What did he use for the sides? Just wood? MDF? Aluminum channels?

Even if I had to make it out of wood, it would be way more accurate than sanding from scratch.

Thanks for that awesome tip and putting it back on my radar! If I was going to do it, now is the time!

-RL
 
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Red Leader

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Well, I finally got electricity to my shop/storage building and have begun its conversion to a full shop. As I researched my old Craftsman toolbox I discovered this!!

My box is a smaller version of the box a few dozen pages ago but has a different badge...kinda crown top rather than the oval shown. Guy I got it from said he bought it new in 1957 and worked at Kenray Ford in Dallas. Any help on the different badge?

This will be my new favorite site for a while.

Bruce Lowry and his Dad and Granddads tools.

P.S. found another post here that states that my box is 1959 at the earliest. Another site stated that the date of manufacture is stamped on the inside of the lowest drawer behind the logo. Mine are stamped 58 on the upper box and 59 on the lower.

Welcome aboard!:thumbup:
 
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Red Leader

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Alright guys, here is the preliminary logo that will go on the main headboard in the center of the lower shelf.

Feel free to add your thoughts, criticisms, etc. Also, feel free to take a modify the image and post up changes as your ideas see fit.

Thanks!

50sCmangaragelogo3-vi.jpg
 

mdbeck1

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I know exactly what you are talking about! I've read up on it a while back. I may end up doing that. I have the router...I would just need to make the channels and the edge supports. I forgot all about that.

What did he use for the sides? Just wood? MDF? Aluminum channels?

Even if I had to make it out of wood, it would be way more accurate than sanding from scratch.

Thanks for that awesome tip and putting it back on my radar! If I was going to do it, now is the time!

-RL

I seem to remember that he used wood. If you do you coul run them through a jointer first to get the best possible flat surface to start with.

If you use steel be sure and inspect it closely to ensure that it is straight.
 

-Brent-

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Sorry to dig back a few posts but what makes the "unicorn" a desirable saw? I feel like I've seen similar models around. I'd love to know, is it the size, i.e., the throat size?
 
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Red Leader

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Sorry to dig back a few posts but what makes the "unicorn" a desirable saw? I feel like I've seen similar models around. I'd love to know, is it the size, i.e., the throat size?

The rarity. This one is the first one to actually be documented. I've seen one other before, a power bronze from 1957. This one comes from Jan of 1956. I would not say that this particular saw is necessarily desirable by the masses (unlike, say, the Unisaw), but for a collector of rare Craftsman tools like me, it is extremely sought after. As the saying goes, valuation with old tools is in the eye of the beholder. To some (and probably many throughout the years), this saw was nothing more than old junk and there are some that inevitably got canned (just like others have done with old Unisaws and every other tool under the sun), but it has became that mystical unicorn to me. And perhaps...maybe just me only.

Other than that, Synco uses a magnetic oscillation technology which is more like an ultra high speed vibration than an actual cyclical motion. While I myself have very limited experience with the system, others have reported a very, very clean cut due to the high oscillation (think 11,000rpm), so I'm confident this saw is a performer.

Thanks for your interest!
 

mdbeck1

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RL

Here are a couple of articles that give you the concept of using a router to flatten a surface. The concept is the same with your bench.


http://lumberjocks.com/mochoa/blog/24136


http://thesorteddetails.blogspot.com/2011/04/how-to-flatten-cutting-board_4847.html

http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/ShopProj/benchrout/index2.html

These are pretty much what I remember seeing. I think one of them said to use a wide flat bit. That would also mean less passes. I'd also suggest moving the router fairly slow until you got the feel for jig.

Come to think of it... you could probably use a similar setup with a skill saw or even put it on a RAS if the bench top was narrow enough (By that I mean use the boards to suspend the top on the table and run the RAS head over it. I'd use a stacked dado blade if I did that. Of course that means your RAS would have to be very carefully aligned to be parallel.). :headscrat

...of course if you wanted to go "old school" get out a big bench planer (the hand type) and get after it. It takes a lot of work but there's nothing like getting a workout and then the bench will mean just that much more to you.
 

bluebolt

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Dec 28, 2008
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Benton LA
Well, I finally got electricity to my shop/storage building and have begun its conversion to a full shop. As I researched my old Craftsman toolbox I discovered this!!

My box is a smaller version of the box a few dozen pages ago but has a different badge...kinda crown top rather than the oval shown. Guy I got it from said he bought it new in 1957 and worked at Kenray Ford in Dallas. Any help on the different badge?

This will be my new favorite site for a while.

Bruce Lowry and his Dad and Granddads tools.

P.S. found another post here that states that my box is 1959 at the earliest. Another site stated that the date of manufacture is stamped on the inside of the lowest drawer behind the logo. Mine are stamped 58 on the upper box and 59 on the lower.

Crown Logo? I need to see pics of that! I mean WE need to see pics of that LOL. I'm being greedy again!
 
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