The VINTAGE toolboxes of Garage Journal!

Outlawmws · Jun 21, 2012

nine4gmc said:
anyone ever heard of "All American"?

I had an All American top and bottom set once; I picked it up used, but it was good quality. Much older that yours however. Only two drawers on top and two on the bottom, which turned into a real waste of floor space all things considered, so about 20 years ago I sold it at a yard sale to my neighbor. He probably put it to the curb when I wasn't looking as he seems to do with everything else, several times a year... :wtf:

Outlawmws · Jun 21, 2012

OK, a little addendum to the tongs I use for straightening munged edges in sheet metal (see below); I mentioned I planned on making a second pair, and I just finished them. The base for the tongs were a pair of Dunlap (Sears) nippers that had the edges ruined, for me by misusing them on hardened steel wire, then that someone attempted to sharpen them... :tard:

For the jaw face,since I didn't have any small angle iron handy, I used 2" of some small channel iron I had around and split it in half to get the two jaws. the notch you see in the roughed out jaws is for clearance on the nippers inside jaws so the jaws from face is as close to the fulcrum of the pliers pin. this gives maximum gripping power. (I did the same on the old 4" pair)

:

I also ground even more of the old nipper jaws so allow for the thickness of the new jaws:

Here it is Mocked up:

And here after welding, completed 2" tongs for straightening munged metal edges (or even making small bends in the same). I made sure (this time) to have them gripping a piece of sheet metal so they are a lot closer to having parallel faces in use, (depending on the gauge of metal of course)

And lastly side by side with the 4" model I previously made:

Outlawmws said:
Generally treat it like you would doing auto body work with minimal or no bondo/putty.

Pliers are generally a bad tool to straighten metal as the teeth leave marks.

I made a tool for straightening edges like that from a bunged set of nippers.

The yellow handled pair are standard a sheet metal tool, and simply lack the power needed to do this job effectively, unless its really thin metal.

My tool works well because the short fulcrum from the hinge to the business end gives it a lot of pressure to work with. They are the red handled pair with the angle iron jaw welded in. if you make a pair, set it up so they are gripping a piece of sheet metal so they are mostly parallel when in use, otherwise the jaws don't quite close in use.at the tips:

Before getting squeezed by the home made tongs:

And afterward:

Souljer · Jun 22, 2012

Burgerkong said:
Just came back

With this!

Found out they had to drill the lock because it was full of tools and the key was lost. Drilled a tad bit deep and the bit walked across the metal, but not too deep. The slides slide GREAT, not bad for 60 something years. Have not taken the drawers out yet to confirm model, still think its a KR-61. Overall, pretty good condition, a bit of worn paint at the hinge areas and on the bottom, minimal surface rust.

Did I mention it was HEAVY?

The price? $130.

Now I just need to find a new lock and install it, where should I go about this? SO's website?

Brendan

Hi,

That looks great. I may have to get one of those some day.

For the lock I would remove it and take it to a good local locksmith. They may have something comparable that will fit. Who knows, they may be able to fix the original.

I just got the lock on my old box (previous page) re-keyed. I took it out of the box, and gave it to the locksmith. The next day it had a working key. He even said that the key was an old style and he didn't have any, but was able to modify an existing key that is close. Works fine now.

Let your fingers do the walking and call around explaining you want a key made for a lock or to replace the lock. You'll know you found a good and proper locksmith shop when instead of sounding scared because they only know how to operate the Kopy-Key machine, they sound like it's not a big deal. Because really, for a professional, it's not.

Congratulations on a really nice tool chest.

dandan111 · Jun 24, 2012

My grandfather and I built this,all the walnut was free from grandpa. I just bought plywood and oak for the lid. It served me well but takes up a lot of space. Really have no use for it anymore.<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/77941408@N02/7435110970/" title="Untitled by [email protected], on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5454/7435110970_a2494d167b.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="Untitled"></a>

blk00ss · Jun 24, 2012

Didn't know we had this thread. I picked up this Snap on tool box set this weekend. I found the exact one in the 1958 snap on catalogue.

bobcatdan · Jun 24, 2012

For all of you guys looking for locks for old SO boxes, check with SO. I bought a '62 kr 300 with the lock missing, my guy had no trouble at all getting me the right lock assembly in one week. This why SO boxes are so great, 50 years old an they can still gett parts.

Not Born Yesterday · Jun 24, 2012

bobcatdan said:
For all of you guys looking for locks for old SO boxes, check with SO. I bought a '62 kr 300 with the lock missing, my guy had no trouble at all getting me the right lock assembly in one week. This why SO boxes are so great, 50 years old an they can still gett parts.

I've got a K-60 super chest and SO doesn't support them with parts anymore and can't help me. I've also had no luck with any of the local locksmiths.

Patrick123 · Jun 24, 2012

Does any one happen to have an idea of the make of this old top box I got today? Also did any one on here get the vintage snap on bottom box for $50 in north Texas craigslist? It was to far away for me to make it over there today. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/tls/3096004718.html

ZRX61 · Jun 25, 2012

dandan111 said:
My grandfather and I built this,all the walnut was free from grandpa. I just bought plywood and oak for the lid. It served me well but takes up a lot of space. Really have no use for it anymore.<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/77941408@N02/7435110970/" title="Untitled by <a href=" mailto:[email protected]"="">[email protected], on Flickr">

Keep it for your kid.. or grandkid.

Outlawmws · Jun 25, 2012

I picked up an MBCentury (MBC) top box today at a yard/estate sale. (see the "It's Garage sale season! thread for the story.)

It is 31 wide, 17 deep, and 19 high; 4 full with drawers, and two rows of 3 drawers, for a total of 10 (6 equiv...)

Front cover over the drawers, and SO style slides that require the tool to get the slides out...

Does anyone know when this Bad Boy was built? I haven't seen any numbers on it (Yet), but will look closer tomorrow...

I'm thinking late 60's, but this is a WAG...

Pics!

And if anyone is interested in the decal:

nine4gmc · Jun 25, 2012

looks like a quality, solid box Outlaw.

dandan111 · Jun 25, 2012

Nice box, never seen a union sticker like that. Cool.

jeffmoss26 · Jun 25, 2012

Interesting sticker. Reminds me of the Freemason square and compass.

softailgarage · Jun 25, 2012

This is a '71 Craftsman 36" I just finished restoring

jeffmoss26 · Jun 25, 2012

Very nice!!

Russ T. Nutz · Jun 28, 2012

Outlaw - Like your sheet metal tools. I've been using various size C-Clamps and even my small vise from time to time. Your tool does the trick in a flash.

nine4gmc · Jun 28, 2012

group shot

Outlawmws · Jun 28, 2012

Russ T. Nutz said:
Outlaw - Like your sheet metal tools. I've been using various size C-Clamps and even my small vise from time to time. Your tool does the trick in a flash.

Yes it does! Did you make one, or are you planning on it?

Souljer · Jun 28, 2012

Hi,

I ended up using an adjustable wrench. Worked pretty good.
Shot a bunch of pix but tried to edit down to the least needed to explain.

Listening to Outlaw's explanation I kept thinking on what I had that might work. I briefly experimented with my Leatherman pliers but they were, as Outlaw indicated, too long and the leverage was not there besides being extra aggressive on the paint and metal. Finally came up with the adjustable wrench. Shorter jaws gave more force where needed and they are a lot less toothy. I've got two others but they are too big or too small for the majority of the work. Though both have smooth jaws so they are better in that regard.

Basically working the jaws back and forth got the metal back in place and the longer handle and shorter jaws worked perfectly. The round parrot-like jaws allowed me to get the fulcrum as deep as possible while working in the corners.

I simply kept opening and closing the jaws for the best fit as the wrinkles began to smooth out and the whole thing got flatter.
Another plus is that once the jaws are set, you no longer need to squeeze. Simply push or pull the lever to move the sheet metal.

First rough pass. This actually made the other edges that I though were pretty good, look like tragic ****. So I kept working around the edges then came back here and applied what I just learned.

After a little more practice.

Not as great as a custom made tool but certainly better than it was. Thanks for the clues to get this to work Outlaw.

jeffmoss26 · Jun 28, 2012

nine4gmc, now that is cool! are they all full of tools?

MR.X · Jun 28, 2012

Here's a pretty cool old box. I guess Pacific Car & Foundry is now PACCAR (Kenworth, Peterbilt etc.) They made Sherman Tanks among other things during the War. Looks like it belonged to one of the original Rosie the Riveters.

Flatintoone · Jun 28, 2012

MR.X said:
Here's a pretty cool old box. I guess Pacific Car & Foundry is now PACCAR (Kenworth, Peterbilt etc.) They made Sherman Tanks among other things during the War. Looks like it belonged to one of the original Rosie the Riveters.

This might be my new favorite hand box!

FJ 432 · Jun 28, 2012

Flatintoone said:
This might be my new favorite hand box!

Yep, I agree. History right in front of you.

Outlawmws · Jun 28, 2012

I need to post this here, not positive of the age but I suspect 1940's.

I'm pretty sure that is the original paint too, even with the olive green interior... (No indication of any other paint under any of the chipping.)

28 Wide 18 deep, and 33 high

It has the lock bar, original Masonite top protector, and at least one tray inside is original.

Outlawmws · Jun 28, 2012

MR.X said:
Here's a pretty cool old box. I guess Pacific Car & Foundry is now PACCAR (Kenworth, Peterbilt etc.) They made Sherman Tanks among other things during the War. Looks like it belonged to one of the original Rosie the Riveters.

Interesting, I got a box two Saturdays ago that used the same latching arrangement, including the tabs for a pad lock!

It is US made, pretty vintage and an odd size: 6-1/2 X 6-1/2 X 19 inches and maid by "Master Metal products" in Buffalo...

My daughter may use this for art stuff, or maybe not, she hasn't lifted a finger to come take it... :dunno:

Russ T. Nutz · Jun 28, 2012

Outlawmws said:
Yes it does! Did you make one, or are you planning on it?

I've got a few pairs of pliers that have seen better days. Perfect candidates to make a usable tool. I'm no welder, but I'll have one of the shop guys tack some iron to it when they get a chance.

However...Now that I think about it, I do have an old battery terminal spreader that would work too.

Outlawmws · Jun 28, 2012

Russ T. Nutz said:
I've got a few pairs of pliers that have seen better days. Perfect candidates to make a usable tool. I'm no welder, but I'll have one of the shop guys tack some iron to it when they get a chance.

However...Now that I think about it, I do have an old battery terminal spreader that would work too.

Just remember; I use tongs for the short jaw length to the pivot point. You will want to shorten the jaws if you use regular pliers.

Jtoddaz · Jul 1, 2012

I bought these old craftsman boxes with plans to build them into a custom workbench. (i have taken a couple drawers out for cleaning, they're not missing.) When I purchased them, these two machinists boxes/chests were sitting on top of them, part of the package. I'm looking for some help identifying them. They look like the old Kennedy boxes, but I cant find any markings at all. They are very similar, but there are minor differences between the two.

There was a little name badge inside one from an aviation inspector, dated 1944. Very well built boxes, any help on ID'ing them would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Outlawmws · Jul 1, 2012

Jtoddaz said:
I bought these old craftsman boxes with plans to build them into a custom workbench. (i have taken a couple drawers out for cleaning, they're not missing.) When I purchased them, these two machinists boxes/chests were sitting on top of them, part of the package. I'm looking for some help identifying them. They look like the old Kennedy boxes, but I cant find any markings at all. They are very similar, but there are minor differences between the two.

There was a little name badge inside one from an aviation inspector, dated 1944. Very well built boxes, any help on ID'ing them would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I'm morally certain the tops are painted over Kennedy 520's The drawer count and pulls tell me that.

Edit: The one with red drawers is probably older if the top is as squared off as it seems in the pic. (Hard to tel with that pic...) Possibly into the 30's but without all the factory markings probably impossible to tell for sure.

If the rollers are a touch over 25" wide, on the case, those would be approximately 1954 (Give or take), I have one I use as my welding bench with a side cab holding my Lincoln, and the folding shelf (no longer folds...) on the other end and a 1/2" thick plate on top

Jtoddaz · Jul 1, 2012

Well it looks like I can make out Kennedy on both of the locks. However they are definitely a bit different in style. They have different drawer glides. One, i had no issues removing. The other, I cant figure how to remove them. They are not the common friction glides. Any suggestions?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Outlawmws · Jul 1, 2012

Those probably use the "Snap-on" method where you need a tools to go behind the slides to release the spring catch, and the one from SO would probably work, some use a modified hack saw blade.

Burgerkong · Jul 1, 2012

The hacksaw blade is too thick I find. Snip a 10 inch long piece of tin from some ventilation duct as it is much thinner than the hacksaw. Makes it much easier to slide it in between the spring and the catch.

Mavawreck · Jul 1, 2012

So when is someone going to make a vintage tool box coffee table book/something with pictures to read in the bathroom?

Outlawmws · Jul 1, 2012

Burgerkong said:
The hacksaw blade is too thick I find. Snip a 10 inch long piece of tin from some ventilation duct as it is much thinner than the hacksaw. Makes it much easier to slide it in between the spring and the catch.

I got one made with the hack saw blade with my latest MBC acquisition, and it worked fine one I got the hang of it. I did finish taking th teeth off of it with a belt sander and gave the rounded tip a better "edge" so it would scoop under the spring tab better, and it worked fine. It has about 1/2 to 3/8 inc rise in about 4-5 inches for the curvature, and I got the drawer out fairly easily.

A pic as soon as the camera batteries are charged...

Outlawmws · Jul 1, 2012

Mavawreck said:
So when is someone going to make a vintage tool box coffee table book/something with pictures to read in the bathroom?

I'll bet a Vise book get's made first...

Patrick123 · Jul 1, 2012

Nice old boxes. And I agree I would like to see a vintage tool box coffee table book.

Outlawmws · Jul 2, 2012

Outlawmws said:
I got one made with the hack saw blade with my latest MBC acquisition, and it worked fine one I got the hang of it. I did finish taking th teeth off of it with a belt sander and gave the rounded tip a better "edge" so it would scoop under the spring tab better, and it worked fine. It has about 1/2 to 3/8 inc rise in about 4-5 inches for the curvature, and I got the drawer out fairly easily.

A pic as soon as the camera batteries are charged...

Here are the pics of the home brew slide release I got with the MBC:

dmaic · Jul 3, 2012

Im working on restoring this piece as a tool chest versus going out and buying something new. It was purpose built at a clay factory and was bought by a local vintage furniture dealer here in town. Its missing two drawers but they will be simple enough to build. Solid oak, I just wish I had more time to work on it.

Patrick123 · Jul 3, 2012

Really nice wood chest wish I had it.

Cryptic1911 · Jul 7, 2012

My dad and I just dug these out of the corner of our old garage, been sitting there for 17 years. They were both stolen about 18 years ago in Florida, but he got them back, missing many tools, so we just started buying new stuff and left these the way they were.

The left is an old Snap-On KRA-377D bottom, a side shelf, and a Yorkville? top. The box on the right, not sure.. no markings

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