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critique my lighting plan

snorky18

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Please critique my lighting plan.

Overhead view:

garagelightingplanPLAN1-1.jpg


This is my first go at this, so don’t worry about hurting my feelings, just worry about making sure that I only hang lights once. :D

The garage: Standardish 2 car, interior dimensions of 25’x25’. 625 square feet total. The seven feet along the south end where the big doors are I never use, so I’m not concerned with lighting it very well, though what I’m doing will probably be an improvement from what it is now. Plus my doors are open so often that lights above them would be wasted, and I’m not about to hang any lights 7’ off the floor so they shine below the door, and Neglecting that 7’ unused section along the south wall where the doors are leaves me with 450 SF to illuminate. Ceilings are 12’, painted flat white. Walls are eggshell khaki.

Proposed: 11 4’ T8 fixtures make a total of 704 watts for 450SF, which provides about 1.5 Watts/SF. I’ve seen the number of 2 Watts/SF around here, but it seems like many are happy with less or more. I’ve never had good garage lighting before; I don’t even know what I need. Three rows of 12' of fixtures parallel to the cars, then 1 row of 8' of fixtures over the work bench (referred to as Row 4).

The bay in front of the work table is the one where ALL car repairs and other work are done. The left bay is used for my wife to park in, and nothing else. Both cars are generally pulled in forward. (I’ve found that if my wife’s car is backed in, she never closes the garage door when she leaves, but I digress…)

Legend for the drawing:
-Black lines are walls. (The “double wall” on 2.5 sides is the front and back of the top of the block wall, which stops at about 3’ high, creating an 8” deep shelf. The outermost white line is the perimeter of the garage at the ceiling).
-Gray circles are the exiting lighting (4 100-watt bulbs, yeeha)
-Gray rectangles are rough outlines of our cars.
-Red rectangles are proposed lighting (Lithonia 48” T8 fixtures, 2 32-watt bulbs each)
-Purple are dimensions.
-Green is the proposed 60” ceiling fan, b/c I’m in Alabama and the heat index is so high I feel like I’m working over a pot of boiling water. (Supposedly the fan is 43,000 cfm, so it should make a significant difference.)

Lingering questions I have:

1. Should I abandon (and remove) the current 4 ceramic fixtures with 100w bulbs, or leave them for general use (quick trips out to the car). One of them is located right where I want to hang the fan, so it’s probably going to be removed no matter what. The only thing I like about the 100W bulbs is that when it’s 40 degrees in the garage they’ll light up without hesitation, but it seems like the fluorescents would still provide enough light to run out there to grab something.

2. Is this enough light for my needs? (Car repair, general carpentry projects)

3. Will I get any weird shadows from the ceiling fan? It will be wrapped with light on 3 sides if I put it where it is shown. The blades will be 60” diameter, and 17” from the ceiling. The second drawing (see bottom of this post) is an elevation view of the approximate light paths from the sides of the fan.

4. Which rows of lighting should be on a switch together? I’m thinking a basic set (row 2?) just for getting stuff out of the car, then 1 and 3 together, then 4 by itself? I’ve never had the option before, so I’m not sure how to proceed.

5. Right now the single light switch for the garage lights is at the top of six steps, through the door, and around the other side of the wall. (So in the house.) It’s nice when I want to turn the lights off before going to bed (from the house), but highly inconvenient when I need to turn the lights on while I’m in the garage. I’m already going to put the fan speed control at the bottom of the steps, just to the left of the tool box. If I put the lights on more than 1 switch, I’m definitely putting those switches there as well. Should I just go ahead and put in a 3 way switch next to the fan speed control for the “basic set” of lights for general use that are also controlled from the house?

6. Will I wish I had a fixture over my toolbox, or is there more than enough light from the other sources to spill over?

7. That row of fixtures over the work table, How do I know if I want it centered over the work table, or if I want the light to come from “over my shoulder” (which sounds annoying, but I feel like someone on here said it was a good idea)? Or should it be closer to the wall like rows 1 and 3? Does it really matter? Keep in mind it also serves the purpose of illuminating the under-hood area of cars I’m working on, so I’m a bit hesitant to move it very far towards the fan.

8. Is there any reason I shouldn’t flush mount the florescent fixtures to the ceiling?


Thanks so much for your input.

Elevation View showing fan and nearest lights:

garagelightingplanELEVATIO1.jpg
 
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eljefino

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1. Should I abandon (and remove) the current 4 ceramic fixtures with 100w bulbs, or leave them for general use (quick trips out to the car). One of them is located right where I want to hang the fan, so it’s probably going to be removed no matter what. The only thing I like about the 100W bulbs is that when it’s 40 degrees in the garage they’ll light up without hesitation, but it seems like the fluorescents would still provide enough light to run out there to grab something.
No! As you say they are great for just running out for stuff. In fact if your utlitity subsidizes CFLs to nearly free I'd throw some in there, shortened lifespan be darned. In fact I think it's fairly clever to rig a light to shine down through the window in your garage door, if possible.
2. Is this enough light for my needs? (Car repair, general carpentry projects)
More'n likely. Your drawing is hard to squint at but you have 12 feet of tube there, 3x4s.
3. Will I get any weird shadows from the ceiling fan? It will be wrapped with light on 3 sides if I put it where it is shown. The blades will be 60” diameter, and 17” from the ceiling. The second drawing (see bottom of this post) is an elevation view of the approximate light paths from the sides of the fan.
Not if you have all the lights on, it will be dispersed and reflected pretty well.
4. Which rows of lighting should be on a switch together? I’m thinking a basic set (row 2?) just for getting stuff out of the car, then 1 and 3 together, then 4 by itself? I’ve never had the option before, so I’m not sure how to proceed.
I'd do rows 2 & 3 together, and 1 and 4 on their own switches.
5. Right now the single light switch for the garage lights is at the top of six steps, through the door, and around the other side of the wall. (So in the house.) It’s nice when I want to turn the lights off before going to bed (from the house), but highly inconvenient when I need to turn the lights on while I’m in the garage. I’m already going to put the fan speed control at the bottom of the steps, just to the left of the tool box. If I put the lights on more than 1 switch, I’m definitely putting those switches there as well. Should I just go ahead and put in a 3 way switch next to the fan speed control for the “basic set” of lights for general use that are also controlled from the house?
You should make them slightly inconvenient so other passers through like the wife aren't flicking two dozen tubes on just to grab something from the car. Keeping the inside switch and edison bases is also a great way to do this. My only thing is if it's pitch black you might want to be able to feel the switches and not waste the added electricity on your edison base bulbs just so you can see your way in.
6. Will I wish I had a fixture over my toolbox, or is there more than enough light from the other sources to spill over?
I'd want something over your left shoulder so you don't cast a strong shadow on an open drawer when you're looking in. They also make LED toolbox drawer lights etc which are pretty awesome. I'm thinking a 5th edison socket with pull chain might be nice between the stairs and toolbox; this could even be a "night light" with a CFL.


7. That row of fixtures over the work table, How do I know if I want it centered over the work table, or if I want the light to come from “over my shoulder” (which sounds annoying, but I feel like someone on here said it was a good idea)? Or should it be closer to the wall like rows 1 and 3? Does it really matter? Keep in mind it also serves the purpose of illuminating the under-hood area of cars I’m working on, so I’m a bit hesitant to move it very far towards the fan.
This is a matter of personal preference; if you hang it lower than your head with a shade you won't get glare, nor would you if you wore a basebal cap/ visor. Do you bend over your work real close or stand off? You might want a gooseneck desk lamp type thing for minute detail work.
8. Is there any reason I shouldn’t flush mount the florescent fixtures to the ceiling?
no
 
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snorky18

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I think I got the image fixed where it is easier to read. Let me know if that is not the case.

Thanks much eljefino. I think I will leave the four (soon to be three) edison bases in place, I'm just hoping it doesn't look weird with the fan replacing one of them. My other option would be to mount the where the blades are below the light.

I also wasn't sure about how far to put the fixtures from the walls, especially the one over the workbench. I am considering just adding one more fixture on Row 4 that would cover the top of the tool box.

I've thought about staging the installation of some of these to keep me from overdoing it.

Glare is something that I had not thought about.
 
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snorky18

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I don't know how you define cold, but it got in the 20s here a (very) few times last winter.

Don't all florescent fixtures have "actual ballasts"?
 
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snorky18

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I just wanted to update this thread, in case the info below helps anyone else in the future.

I purchased my Lithonia C Series T8 fixtures from home depot. I ended up following my plan above, except I added one 4’ fixture over the toolbox, and I’m glad that I did. Three switches control them, and the fan shadows have not been a problem so long as the lights on both sides of it were on.

Some of the lights destroyed my FM radio reception while they were turned on.

I called the number on the ballasts, they asked for my ballast model number, then told me that I had commercial ballasts, and sent me some residential ones out for free. Great customer service from Accupro.

I just wish I had called them preemptively before mounting the wrong ballasts the first time, then getting to take them down and change them. I knew the FM radio reception would potentially be an issue, but I was hoping the ballasts that came with my fixtures would be OK. Just a friendly reminder that hope is not a plan. So that’s 8 ballasts, and 24 bulbs that I got to take back down from a 12’ ceiling, change the ballasts, and then put the bulbs all back in. Next time, I’ll call to ask about the ballast model numbers and fm radio reception before mounting them.

The 48” (2 bulb) fixtures originally came with ballast Model # AP-RC-232IP-120-1, which had a nameplate current of 0.49 Amps, and actually pulled 0.36 Amps while running. The replacement residential ballast is model # AB2-32-120-R, which has a nameplate current of 0.80 amps, and actually pulls 0.71 amps while running.

The 96” (4 bulb) fixtures originally came with ballast Model # AP-RC-432IP-120-1, which had a nameplate current of 0.97 Amps, and actually pulled 0.77 Amps while it was running. The replacement residential ballast is model # AP-RS-432IP-120, which has a nameplate current of 1.54 amps, and actually pulls 1.49 amps while running.

So while I get to keep using my FM radio, it cost me a bit in energy efficiency, which is bearable since I just have them on for hobby use a few hours per week. Based on the actual Assuming I run all 24 bulbs for 10 hours/week and pay $0.10/kWh, it comes out to $1.06 / week for the FM-radio-friendly ballasts, or $0.55 / week for the commercial ballasts. I’m fine with paying the 50 cents per week to keep my FM radio operational.

For bulbs, I ended up buying a case of 25 Literonics F-32L359 bulbs from 1000bulbs.com for $80 shipped. I've been really happy with the light quality and quantity. Specs are as follows:

Litetronics L-359 - F32T8CB50
32 Watt - T8 - 36,000 Hours - 3,200 Lumens - 5000K Full Spectrum - 900 Series Phosphors - CRI=90
 
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snorky18

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I flush mounted one 4' fixture and one 8' fixture for each of the strings of lights.

Someone asked what lights I used.

The 4' fixtures were $28 each at the depot, which was far and away the best price I could find.

Lithonia Lighting 2-Light Electronic Channel Fluorescent Strip Light
Model # C 2 32 120 GESB Internet # 100543144 Store SKU # 453825
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...1&keyword=lithonia&storeId=10051#.UKRWBeOe9o8

The 8' fixtures were $40 each at home depot, ditto on the low price.

Lithonia Lighting 4-Light Flush Mount Ceiling Electronic Fluorescent Tandem Strip Light
Model # TC 2 32 120 1/4 GESB Store SKU # 518902
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...1&keyword=lithonia&storeId=10051#.UKRWvOOe9o8
 
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