To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Wood bench for metal lathe and mill?

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
OK guys, I'm planning on grabbing a G0602 lathe and a G0704 mill..

I'm considering building a 8'x30" work bench out of 2x4's and 4x4's for the bench.

I'm also thinking about building it out of maybe 2x2 square tube.

Any of you guys running a wood bench without any issues?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Steevo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
This is my lathe bench:

i-4vGBhVH-M.jpg


4x4 legs, 2x6 top frame, 1-1/2" mdf/laminate top, covered with 12ga steel.

Very solid and sturdy.
 
OP
B

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
This is my lathe bench:

i-4vGBhVH-M.jpg


4x4 legs, 2x6 top frame, 1-1/2" mdf/laminate top, covered with 12ga steel.

Very solid and sturdy.


I like that. No issues with twist?

Did you make the adjustable feet? Any details?

I've just epoxied nuts into holes in the bottom of 4x4's and spun bolts into them..

Here's a bench I built that I'm thinking about replicating..

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389187396.568468.jpg
 

383 240z

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
4,295
Location
Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
I'm planning on building a bench similar to Steevo's bench. My 13x40 is on the factory stand and it's just to low for me. My back hurts after running it for a few hours. Only changes I'm going to make are instead of steel covered MDF. I was going to pour a 4" thick concrete pad and set my factory chip pan on that. I figure the extra mass can not hurt. The uprights will be 4x4's or 2x4's doubled up. Cross braces will be 2x8's or 2x10's a 3x4" sheet of plywood will be what I pour the concrete on, with 2x4's used as joists under it for support. Keith
 
OP
B

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
I'm planning on building a bench similar to Steevo's bench. My 13x40 is on the factory stand and it's just to low for me. My back hurts after running it for a few hours. Only changes I'm going to make are instead of steel covered MDF. I was going to pour a 4" thick concrete pad and set my factory chip pan on that. I figure the extra mass can not hurt. The uprights will be 4x4's or 2x4's doubled up. Cross braces will be 2x8's or 2x10's a 3x4" sheet of plywood will be what I pour the concrete on, with 2x4's used as joists under it for support. Keith


Are you just going to lay up some Sakrete or similar?


I used these steel plates on the bottom of the legs:
i-2ncgjMP-M.jpg


I got them from a pool table supply place.



Those are pretty sweet! I'll have to find some of those.
 

383 240z

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
4,295
Location
Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
Are you just going to lay up some Sakrete or similar?

Yep nothing special. Like I said it's just for mass. I'll bury a few j hooks in it to use as mounts. I was also considering drilling straight through it and nut and bolting it down. Keith
 

machineshop

Active member
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Germany
Hello Belly Up Fish,
if you want the absolutely best precision you have to bolt the milling machine and lathe to a concrete machine bed. This decreases the vibrations of the machine and the less your machines vibrate, the nicer and more precise is the cut.
I can see this every time on my small chinese lathe and my much bigger weiler condor lathe. The bigger one has much more mass than the smaller one and if i need really tight tollerances and a nice finish i always take the bigger lathe.

I have red somewhere that in ww2 the smaller and medium size lathes from the war effort had to be bolted down on a concrete bed to increase their precision.

On the other hand a lathe or milling machine looks awesome on a wooden workbench and it is a highlight in a garage. So if you do not fabricate precision parts day in and day out, put them on a nice wooden workbench, it will be a pleasure to look at.
 
OP
B

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
I really have no specific use for a lathe and/or a mill. Well, I guess that's not true, I want to lathe a shift knob for my Trans Am and know a few things I'd like to mill, but it will definitely be a hobby piece.

I think pouring the concrete pad sounds like a good idea. I'll just have to sort that out. I wouldn't think pouring it right on the workbench would work, due to the moisture on top. I guess a sealed top would be ok. Ideas?
 

Ray Kelly

Banned
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
465
Location
East Bay
Wow, Steevo. That's an awesome setup you've got. I sure wish I had a lathe in my shop. They sure come in handy.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
B

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
Well the maybe I'll give it a go and post some pics. ;)

Won't have a lathe for a fed months, but it's coming..
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Here's how I mounted my 9x20:
LatheBench.jpg


The bench has all the lathe stuff plus the mill tooling for the G0519 I have. At the time I bought the G0519, they were selling the G0494 which came with a stand. After research, I decided to buy a 3 phase motor mill for the better performance and build a stand to my specs. Mostly because I'm tall and the included stands are way short. Note from experience - use some real machine feet on the mill stand and a 3 point is better than a 4 point when it comes time to level the machine. I used some home made feet and put in 4 - the thing is a beeotch to level out. There's no requirement for a lathe to be level. And, only one end should be secured tight. I have the head end firm to the bench and the tail stock end just snug. It's a $500 machine, it's going to move around a little.
 
Last edited:

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,510
Location
visalia ca
I have my small lathe mounted to the top of a HF toolbox
Very handy as I can move it around as needed and it stores the tooling in the box

Bob
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,877
Location
oregon
I've had two different Logan 10" lathes. One was on a welded tubular frame with a steel top, the other on a heavy wooden bench. The one on the steel had an issue with setting up a resonance in the table that the wood mounted one would damp out. I even switched the lathes and the problem followed the steel table. So I'm a believer in having a bench that will have the mass and low resonance frequency to keep chattering under control. You won't have the mass if you use lightweight 2" tubing.

lg
no neat sig line
 

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
I have red somewhere that in ww2 the smaller and medium size lathes from the war effort had to be bolted down on a concrete bed to increase their precision.

Carla over on PM discussed a War Production Board pamphlet detailing how to build a concrete pedestal for a South Bend lathe, to make it suitable for producing aircraft parts. I found a copy of the pamphlet somewhere, but can't find it now.

It's still a stop-gap measure, but it got more lathes into the war effort.
 
OP
B

BellyUpFish

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
2,942
Location
Alabama
Here's how I mounted my 9x20:
LatheBench.jpg


The bench has all the lathe stuff plus the mill tooling for the G0519 I have.



I was thinking about doing this with a HF box, but the G0602 is 46" long so I started looking elsewhere.

May need to run by Sam's and check those out.
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,510
Location
visalia ca
I was thinking about doing this with a HF box, but the G0602 is 46" long so I started looking elsewhere.

May need to run by Sam's and check those out.

The HF box will Likly still work. Look at where the machine mounts verses it's overall lenth

Bob
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,510
Location
visalia ca
I've had two different Logan 10" lathes. One was on a welded tubular frame with a steel top, the other on a heavy wooden bench. The one on the steel had an issue with setting up a resonance in the table that the wood mounted one would damp out. I even switched the lathes and the problem followed the steel table. So I'm a believer in having a bench that will have the mass and low resonance frequency to keep chattering under control. You won't have the mass if you use lightweight 2" tubing.

lg
no neat sig line

Fill the steel tube frame with sand saturated with oil. Old motor oil will be fine. This will dampen lots of the vibrations

Bob
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom