NKlamerus
Well-known member
Current state.
Underground Lair of the Squankum
- Thread starter Squankum
- Start date
Current state.
n8n
Well-known member
N-Klam, you do realize that 9V batteries are becoming quaint, right?
I've been trying to buy some on my recent trips to MegaloMart. I did see some rechargeables, but couldn't find chargers for such. After two trips and checking both front battery kiosk and rear electronics dept each time, the light bulb went off over my head re. one of my New Rules:
New Rule, 2014: If you keep driving around town to different big box stores for something only moderately obscure, something you swore they stocked for years, something they can't keep in stock, why aren't you just saving time and checking amazon?
I checked amazon. I can get a wad o' 9V's for a very fair price.
I only use them in smoke detectors, of which I have many, and I test them every month. Which seems to wear out the batteries, but... you know.
Also, you might have to tell the kiddies about steel wool!
9V quaint? Not hardly. Still used for just about every smoke detector, and they're now required by code for damn near everything.
Also, pretty much all chargers available in retail stores ****, even for NiMH AA and AAA which you'd think you could find a decent one. I use a Maha C9000 as when I bought it that seemed to be the best you could get. Today that may or may not be true, there's been some buzz over at Candlepowerforums re: a new charger from SkyRC that has the features of the C9000 and then some more and will also charge lithium-ion cells as well as NiMH.
HSpencer
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Example of above:
Changed my *** company cell phone to ZZZ company cell phone. Went to *** for a new phone, and they suggested I go to WallyWorld and buy a phone and come back to have it activated by the *** company. I walked, as that sounded lame.
Went to ZZZ company, and the sales kid asked for my drivers license. Fair enough. However my full name on the license was just too much for him to comprehend, so he uses my first name, and makes my last name out of my middle name. So my full name is "John James Smith". Now I have a phone account named "Mr. John James". I even got a $50.00 rebate card from them with that being my name. I haven't tried to use it yet. I write in about three letters to them, the last one being a sort of a "nasty gram". I have received three months of billings to my mailbox all addressed to "John James".
I receive the billings as they either won't or can't get the "bank draft" set up.
I even sent in the voided check.
In effect, I, as I am now, don't exist. My choices are to close the account, or wait for them to one day fix things, or go to lawyer and file for a change of name. The latter one not likely. Hopefully one day, a middle aged woman, working for them part time, will catch the error out of boredom, and make the change.
All this because some techie kid can't read the correct name on the DL and make an account. I did not catch this prior to leaving the store, as he did everything by computer, and I got the contract and all by mail a couple days later. Yes I called him immediately, and he said he would correct it.
Oh Well!!
Best Regards
Herb
Last edited:
WxDude10
Active member
Yeah... If it can't be said in 140 characters or less, or as a picture with a fake polaroid filter, then they don't understand your complaint. 
NKlamerus
Well-known member
Imagine a Swiss Army Knife...filled with the keys your carry.
Then you just flip the one you need out.
No Jingle Noises
Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
I was wondering the same thing.
NKlamerus
Well-known member
This is how mine came out. Extremely ugly but it was 3 dollars!
Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
And the shackles in the background hold the lanyard to your belt loop?
NKlamerus
Well-known member
That would be quite a belt lol.
Nah the shackles were there for another photo for DuramaxForum. They are true Crosby USA shackles and they were 20 bucks a peice!!!!! That's a steal for anyone not in the shackle/clevis market. I thought they had misprinted the sticker or something but the lady at the counter said 20 bucks was right!
They are going to be added to a Ranch Hand bumper.
So I can FINALLY use this bad boy. Litter bit bigger setup than Squankum's Self Tow Setup.
Barbie Mustang on the dyno:
http://www.carthrottle.com/discuss/jwPwJF/
Hat tip to my friends at:
http://www.neherphoto.com/
http://www.carthrottle.com/discuss/jwPwJF/
Hat tip to my friends at:
http://www.neherphoto.com/
Back to what I was saying about not wandering around big box stores searching/hoping/questing to find the thing the have/used to have/sold out?/really, sold out that fast?/seasonal product. I found this on amazon recently.
Udder Creme
http://amzn.com/B003LZVIC0
I heartily endorse this event or product. And at $16.40, this was a great price. I've never seen 4 oz tubes before, either; just 2's and 3's.
The tub version is okay. The pump lotion version is not. The tube version like this is the best. Just the thing for dry hands at this time of the year.
Not to be confused with Bag Balm. That's a thicker goop meant for tougher problems in darker, secret spots of a Squankum.
Udder Creme
http://amzn.com/B003LZVIC0
I heartily endorse this event or product. And at $16.40, this was a great price. I've never seen 4 oz tubes before, either; just 2's and 3's.
The tub version is okay. The pump lotion version is not. The tube version like this is the best. Just the thing for dry hands at this time of the year.
Not to be confused with Bag Balm. That's a thicker goop meant for tougher problems in darker, secret spots of a Squankum.
Attachments
Last edited:
N-Klam:
A few months ago, I saw some young men walking out of the junkyard with shackles of that scale, and they seemed pleased with themselves. This was a self-serve junkyard where they really don't give a fig about making top dollar off any particular part -- flat rate pricing, brand of car ignored.
My first reaction was, "Those shackles look stronger than whatever vehicle they're going to bolt them to." (My second reaction was, what vehicle here had those things? The junkyard is 99.9% civilian street vehicles.)
Now that I think about it some more, so what if it's stronger than the frame you're bolting it to, when you're stuck, who wants the hardware to break during the attempt?
Is that big blue rope made out of nylon for a rubber band effect?
Is there a knot to make that loop or is the smaller rope doing the whole job?
A few months ago, I saw some young men walking out of the junkyard with shackles of that scale, and they seemed pleased with themselves. This was a self-serve junkyard where they really don't give a fig about making top dollar off any particular part -- flat rate pricing, brand of car ignored.
My first reaction was, "Those shackles look stronger than whatever vehicle they're going to bolt them to." (My second reaction was, what vehicle here had those things? The junkyard is 99.9% civilian street vehicles.)
Now that I think about it some more, so what if it's stronger than the frame you're bolting it to, when you're stuck, who wants the hardware to break during the attempt?
Is that big blue rope made out of nylon for a rubber band effect?
Is there a knot to make that loop or is the smaller rope doing the whole job?
NKlamerus
Well-known member
That's what the plan is. The local offroad club designs ballistic mounts for those shackles in such a way that they will break before the hardware does. (They also have safety chains to prevent anything from flying away)
Then blue rope is 4" "Amsteel Blue" as they call it. It's stronger than steel, 100% Synthetic, very free flowing, and floats. (It's designed for tug boats) There is a double braided eye splice under the wrap. I just added the 1" line to make it prettier lol.
According to Sampson Ropes Website this particular rope will handle 1,637,000 pounds when handled properly. Obviously ANY vehicle will break before that. But I was tired of breaking 6 or 7 tow straps a year from wallyworld
NKlamerus
Well-known member
I'm definetly gotta try that Udderly Smooth Stuff. I've tried "working hands" as recommended by my boss but it just doesn't do the trick. Rolling large vynl bounce houses this time of year will absolutely destroy your hands. And then we workout as a group afterwords, so all of us have gym callus'
Ha! I was pondering O'Keefe's Working Hands for difficult, dried/split stuff near fingertips, but haven't stumbled across it at the store.
I'm working in an office environment, so my main challenges are frequent handwashing and dry air. (On the weekends in the shop, much more frequent handwashing.) Udder Creme is a basic hand lotion, it just soaks in fast and helps out with some dryness.
When things get bad, it's Bag Balm time. This is the consistency of axle grease:
http://amzn.com/B001838FPA
Udder Creme you probably can find at a big box drugstore. (My first pass for most items is Wal-Mart.) Bag Balm, try a Tractor Supply or other farm supply store, and maybe a Rite Aid or CVS. (In the Tractor Supply, look in the horsey care zone.)
Last edited:
I misread that as "hoses" the first few times.
Bounce houses? Florida? This time of year? Are you a carnie?
Do you know the Lobster Boy?!
Last edited:
NKlamerus
Well-known member
I do not have a marlin spike, a stick worked just fine lolI misread that as "hoses" the first few times.
Bounce houses? Florida? This time of year? Are you a carnie?
Do you know the Lobster Boy?!
And if my offroad vehicles were lighter I couldn't tow (and more importantly stop) the trailers on the road! It doesn't matter what brakes, gearing, tires, etc. You have, I will always believe weight is winner when towing.
And lastly, it's Florida!! We are still using water slides!! Yesterday is was 81 outside and today is gonna be a high of 78!
"I live, where you Vacation"
NKlamerus
Well-known member
Oh and Tractor Supply and Lowe's should both have Working Hands!
N-Klam:
Okay, so it' s still warm. Do you have your county fairs in the fall? (I just realized, it's now winter. I still am confused where I am in the Southeast, having come from places where winter was punitive.)
I checked, you're not in south central FL where the railroad lines petered out and the circus people spend their winters, you're in the panhandle, where Alabama meets the sea!
Keep your eyes peeled:
http://www.bfro.net/GDB/show_county_reports.asp?state=fl&county=Okaloosa
Also, you know what’s lighter to pull out of a swamp than a Citroen 2CV with two aircooled engines and 4wd? A bicycle:
When it comes to real towing, yes, I understand, Detroit iron is the only way. Otherwise, I'm a eurofoofoo whenever possible.
(All Dodge and Ford work you might see in this thread is vehicles belonging to a new inhabitant of the Squankum lair.)
Pull A Part is the flat-rate pricing junkyard I was talking about; check it out if you're in Mobile. Mine has nice employees and the whole place is gravel, no mud, self-serve, no hassles:
http://www.pullapart.com/locations/#
I will add O'Keefe's to my Lowes list. Thanks.
Okay, so it' s still warm. Do you have your county fairs in the fall? (I just realized, it's now winter. I still am confused where I am in the Southeast, having come from places where winter was punitive.)
I checked, you're not in south central FL where the railroad lines petered out and the circus people spend their winters, you're in the panhandle, where Alabama meets the sea!
Keep your eyes peeled:
http://www.bfro.net/GDB/show_county_reports.asp?state=fl&county=Okaloosa
Also, you know what’s lighter to pull out of a swamp than a Citroen 2CV with two aircooled engines and 4wd? A bicycle:
When it comes to real towing, yes, I understand, Detroit iron is the only way. Otherwise, I'm a eurofoofoo whenever possible.
(All Dodge and Ford work you might see in this thread is vehicles belonging to a new inhabitant of the Squankum lair.)
Pull A Part is the flat-rate pricing junkyard I was talking about; check it out if you're in Mobile. Mine has nice employees and the whole place is gravel, no mud, self-serve, no hassles:
http://www.pullapart.com/locations/#
I will add O'Keefe's to my Lowes list. Thanks.
Last edited:
I started a project involving sheet aluminum recently (pics some other day) and when it was done, I... fairly new to any kind of metalwork... wondered, how do I smooth the edges of all these places I used tin snips on?
Good link here:
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3546
I shall use the flapper wheel for my next step on this project. (Pics some other day, I tells ya.)
Good forum for you, N-Klam, if you're not aware of it already.
Good link here:
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3546
I shall use the flapper wheel for my next step on this project. (Pics some other day, I tells ya.)
Good forum for you, N-Klam, if you're not aware of it already.
NKlamerus
Well-known member
Yeah I have a feeling that will be my 5th forum now that you pointed it out.
But I am still waiting for approval onto the EDC forum. Which I will most likely spend more money there than on this site!!
But I am still waiting for approval onto the EDC forum. Which I will most likely spend more money there than on this site!!
NKlamerus
Well-known member
Yes. They have moderators approve every request to make sure there are no duplicate or spam members.
I'm a fan of trinkets and pocket gizmos....
Price check for O'Keefe's Working Hands:
Amazon: $8.00
Tractor Supply: $7.99
An errand yesterday took me very near the Tractor Supply on my side of the county, so I bought some. Wish I had video of me trying to open the container so I could send it to a primate research lab.
Amazon: $8.00
Tractor Supply: $7.99
An errand yesterday took me very near the Tractor Supply on my side of the county, so I bought some. Wish I had video of me trying to open the container so I could send it to a primate research lab.
Last edited:
NKlamerus
Well-known member
You saved a penny AND didn't have to wait!
You have 2 in your county??? We have 1 and it's 30 minutes away!
You have 2 in your county??? We have 1 and it's 30 minutes away!
Last edited:
NKlamerus
Well-known member
I see what you did there!
Also there is someone that uses your profile pic (Murray for Caddy Shack?) on EDCF except he's facing the other direction. It gets me every time!!!!
Also there is someone that uses your profile pic (Murray for Caddy Shack?) on EDCF except he's facing the other direction. It gets me every time!!!!
Long story, and I don't remember how to got to my conclusion. I just remember the conclusion: I love the "oil pan that is also a container" concept, ever since I started using mine in the mid 90's. However, they don't make 'em like they used to. Wal-Mart sells something like this now that (for reasons I don't remember) I don't think isn't anywhere near as good as the Chilton brand pan. And I'm not seeing any Chilton pans out there for sale anymore. (Wal-Mart probably crushed this market like a bug. Chilton is still out there as a plastics company.)
So, I must protect the bottom of my aging plastic pan from abrasion! Other folks on GJ have used JB Weld to glue big washers on the bottom of theirs in strategic places, but after looking at mine, I didn't see any good places that would make good homes for washers -- all the high spots are skinny.
So, I made a metal tray for about what people used to pay for Chilton pans on a bad day ($15ish.)
So, I must protect the bottom of my aging plastic pan from abrasion! Other folks on GJ have used JB Weld to glue big washers on the bottom of theirs in strategic places, but after looking at mine, I didn't see any good places that would make good homes for washers -- all the high spots are skinny.
So, I made a metal tray for about what people used to pay for Chilton pans on a bad day ($15ish.)
Attachments
Last edited:
Here it is. A little rough around the edges, literally, but I'll get to that some warm day. Slides very nicely on the concrete floor. (OK, it's a very smooth concrete. Yeah, that wouldn't wear out the pan much, but it already has mileage from my parking lot years.)
Attachments
Last edited:
NKlamerus
Well-known member
A full week. Holidays been busy!
Busy for you?
Only shop things I did this weekend are change a power steering filter in one car (this time, factory design, no worries) and install an air hose reel on the ceiling.
Posting is about to slow down here for the winter as the Squankum hibernates fitfully.
I stumbled across this video (i.e., the newly revenue-hunting people at youtube are pushing ads in my face) a few weeks ago:
Mercedes Benz Master Service Technicians Film (it's a commercial):
I like cars, I love German cars, but I don't aspire to own one with 91 computers. If I recall correctly, Juan Manuel Fangio did what he did with magnetos and a battery. OK, so that was 50 years ago, but still...
Only shop things I did this weekend are change a power steering filter in one car (this time, factory design, no worries) and install an air hose reel on the ceiling.
Posting is about to slow down here for the winter as the Squankum hibernates fitfully.
I stumbled across this video (i.e., the newly revenue-hunting people at youtube are pushing ads in my face) a few weeks ago:
Mercedes Benz Master Service Technicians Film (it's a commercial):
I like cars, I love German cars, but I don't aspire to own one with 91 computers. If I recall correctly, Juan Manuel Fangio did what he did with magnetos and a battery. OK, so that was 50 years ago, but still...
Okay, my fellow German car fiends, here are some tips by Mercedes nerd Kent Bergsma about dealing with inner CV bolts (triple square type.) Applies to female Torx and Allen head, too.
As for the Loctite bit at the end, er, Loctite? I'm not agin' it, but I've never thought of using it here. I've also never had big problems getting these out, because I was the last one to put them in, and I used a torque wrench. It has worked for me. If I was building a race car, sure, I'd think about it.
The other reason I may not have had problems getting them out is because long ago, Richard Sealey/John Muir Press/How to Keep Your Rabbit Alive taught me to clean out the hole before sticking in ze tool.
Not mentioned in Kent's video, but I've heard of this method, and used it once myself: long extension+ mini impact gun. Like so many other problem fasteners, getting all your forces on the correct axis counts for a lot in not rounding something. And it's easy to get that gun lined up just right, and no funky side forces like if you'd used a long extension and then a long ratchet.
As for the Loctite bit at the end, er, Loctite? I'm not agin' it, but I've never thought of using it here. I've also never had big problems getting these out, because I was the last one to put them in, and I used a torque wrench. It has worked for me. If I was building a race car, sure, I'd think about it.
The other reason I may not have had problems getting them out is because long ago, Richard Sealey/John Muir Press/How to Keep Your Rabbit Alive taught me to clean out the hole before sticking in ze tool.
Not mentioned in Kent's video, but I've heard of this method, and used it once myself: long extension+ mini impact gun. Like so many other problem fasteners, getting all your forces on the correct axis counts for a lot in not rounding something. And it's easy to get that gun lined up just right, and no funky side forces like if you'd used a long extension and then a long ratchet.
Last edited:
The Education of A Young Squankum
OK, here's where it all began.
How to Keep Your Rabbit Alive
http://amzn.com/0912528478
It didn't perfectly apply to my A2, but with careful study plus a crude early Bentley manual, I sure made it work. I still recommend these if you're new to wrenching and new to these old cars. The Beetle book was the most famous, of course, but they did Rabbit/Jetta/Scirrocco, old Hondas, old rwd Nissan, old Toyota truck, and the now-extinct Honda 3-wheelers. Peter Aschwanden's artwork is the best, and I liked it the most in the Honda books.
The Reader's Digest Complete Care Care Manual
http://amzn.com/0895770881
An early 80's book, this thing is still quite relevant on most subjects. Being an RD publication, it was produced on a Soviet scale and used prices are still low on amazon. Like, a penny, plus shipping.
Buy one for every teenager in your family, and anybody else who wants to learn the basics of what-is-that? and keeping on top of fluids and simple maintenance. The first third of the book is full of beautiful industrial illustrations of the various parts of a car, and the various types of components diferent types of cars have. And how they work to make your car go, turn, and stop.
The Volkswagen Water-cooled Front Drive Performance Handbook, by Greg Raven.
I learned a lot from this one. He knows a lot about German cars. He also knows how to tune carrillions in belfries. On some other subjects, he's got bats in his belfry.
VW & Porsche Magazine
Raven wrote a lot of articles for them. They later became European Car. I used to read this stuff like a graduate student. There came a point where the wheels became chrome, tires became rubber bands, and cone air filters breathing hot engine compartment air were worth 35+ hp, and I wandered off to other places. I sure read a lot of other car magazines at the time, but this one taught me more about hot rodding and hands-on mechanicals, whereas most car magazines want to encourage you to buy a kewl new car.
OK, here's where it all began.
How to Keep Your Rabbit Alive
http://amzn.com/0912528478
It didn't perfectly apply to my A2, but with careful study plus a crude early Bentley manual, I sure made it work. I still recommend these if you're new to wrenching and new to these old cars. The Beetle book was the most famous, of course, but they did Rabbit/Jetta/Scirrocco, old Hondas, old rwd Nissan, old Toyota truck, and the now-extinct Honda 3-wheelers. Peter Aschwanden's artwork is the best, and I liked it the most in the Honda books.
The Reader's Digest Complete Care Care Manual
http://amzn.com/0895770881
An early 80's book, this thing is still quite relevant on most subjects. Being an RD publication, it was produced on a Soviet scale and used prices are still low on amazon. Like, a penny, plus shipping.
Buy one for every teenager in your family, and anybody else who wants to learn the basics of what-is-that? and keeping on top of fluids and simple maintenance. The first third of the book is full of beautiful industrial illustrations of the various parts of a car, and the various types of components diferent types of cars have. And how they work to make your car go, turn, and stop.
The Volkswagen Water-cooled Front Drive Performance Handbook, by Greg Raven.
I learned a lot from this one. He knows a lot about German cars. He also knows how to tune carrillions in belfries. On some other subjects, he's got bats in his belfry.
VW & Porsche Magazine
Raven wrote a lot of articles for them. They later became European Car. I used to read this stuff like a graduate student. There came a point where the wheels became chrome, tires became rubber bands, and cone air filters breathing hot engine compartment air were worth 35+ hp, and I wandered off to other places. I sure read a lot of other car magazines at the time, but this one taught me more about hot rodding and hands-on mechanicals, whereas most car magazines want to encourage you to buy a kewl new car.
Attachments
Last edited:
NKlamerus
Well-known member
Nah busy for you! I figured your new oil pan would be put to use!
A neat little educational film about how oil lubricates the inside of an internal combustion engine. Produced by Chevrolet in 1937, using a pushrod straight six. Features some very nice industrial photography & illustration, a cutaway motor, and some winter Olympics hosted by the Nat-sees.
Motor Oil: "Riding the Film" 1937 Chevrolet Engine Lubrication 11min
The only quaint thing (other than the winter sports footage) is the issue of oil filtration and OMG THE CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS.
Motor Oil: "Riding the Film" 1937 Chevrolet Engine Lubrication 11min
The only quaint thing (other than the winter sports footage) is the issue of oil filtration and OMG THE CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS.
Last edited:
A friend of mine whose knowledge spans many decades of machinery informs me:
As for the con rod dipper oiling.....still in use today.....Briggs & Stratton has been oiling their small engines this way for years (at least the flatheads,I'm not sure about the OHV engines) it works ok on lower RPM engines with looser clearances
As for the con rod dipper oiling.....still in use today.....Briggs & Stratton has been oiling their small engines this way for years (at least the flatheads,I'm not sure about the OHV engines) it works ok on lower RPM engines with looser clearances