Restoration favored finish

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 11, 2015

The tools I buy are old rusted ones, such as Williams plumb and proto. I acquired a plumb 20 Oz ball pein & more yesterday at a flea market.
Before screaming "use the search bar!" I already have. Each thread uses its own finish. I've seen shoe polish, WD40 and more. I live in Florida by the beaches so rust is a problem. I just want to do a great finish on these great tools. Thanks everyone for input.

wild cowboy · Jan 11, 2015

electrolysis followed by Fluid Film is the best course of action for rusted tools that will live near the beach, do a search on those two.

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 11, 2015

Thanks cowboy. The electrolysis does look like a good and easy way to clean them and a fun project as well. & I've never used fluid film but will give it a shot.

bob15 · Jan 11, 2015

Butcher's Wax on the metal will keep the rust off. i use it on my table saw and joiner as well. Works real good.

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN · Jan 11, 2015

Soaking them in evaporust or vinegar will also do the trick

jakemac · Jan 11, 2015

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN said:
Soaking them in evaporust or vinegar will also do the trick

That will work for removing the rust, but it does nothing about preventing it from coming back. In fact, it leaves the metal open to flash rusting if the metal isn't protected quickly.

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN · Jan 11, 2015

jakemac said:
That will work for removing the rust, but it does nothing about preventing it from coming back. In fact, it leaves the metal open to flash rusting if the metal isn't protected quickly.

I realize that, I only offered a way to remove the rust not a prevention. I should of been more clear. After I soak smaller rusted tools using that method I hit them with a wire brush and use either a metal polish or silicon spray to keep the rust away. So far I have not had any problems.

Lassen Forge · Jan 11, 2015

Johnson's paste wax works well - the stuff in the yellow can - for my restored machined table tops (scroll saw, drill press, etc.). On some, I've applied multiple coats of clear lacquer first - then the wax - and it still looks new.

General tools, however - Cleaning, usually, electrolysis (washing soda method) or buffing/wire wheel followed by a coating of motor oil for most of my old and rusty tools. I

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 11, 2015

So after electrolysis I wanted to give the tools a nice shine look. I don't plan on putting more wear on my protos and plumbs. I want them to look nice, shiny, and rust proventative. The wax will give that nice shine as well as keeping the rust at bay? Sorry for the questions. I just want to make sure I get this right. :beer:

RivennHewn · Jan 11, 2015

I've been using Penetrol.

It leaves a light coating, and needs to be re-applied to tools in use.

Goes on like water, and dries clear.

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php

Adam.C · Jan 11, 2015

How about cold gun bluing? I use Brownell's Oxpho Blue Creme.

Step 1: After removing rust, degrease. I washed these sockets in the sink with warm soapy water. I did a tiny bit of scrubbing with a worn out green scotch Brite pad.

Step 2: Put on gloves to avoid transferring oil to the bare metal and to protect your hands from the gun blue. It isn't terrible to get on your hands. In fact, it's never bothered my skin one bit.

Apply the bluing using a clean q-tip. I do not dip the same q-tip in the bluing more than once. My trick is to gently heat the part over a candle while rubbing with the q-tip.

Step 3: Wipe with a clean dry cloth. I use paper towel.

Step 4: Finish with a light coating of 3 in 1 oil. This is especially effective if the part is still warm. Another thing I do is to rub the warm part with a black crayon. This produces a fine dark luster. Makes sense for some tools, not on others.

This finish provides excellent corrosion protection for parts not chromed. There are other cold blue solutions you can use such as Caswell.

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 11, 2015

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

zkling · Jan 11, 2015

Wire wheel to clean and then paste wax or a heavy oil rubbed in to prevent corrosion.

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN · Jan 11, 2015

Adam.C, how durable is that method and how did you whiten the lettering? That's a nice touch

beatcad · Jan 11, 2015

some good suggestions here.
i love the blueing tip. i've always wanted to to that to stuff, but never thought of it on tools.

heres another idea and what i do for my machinist tools.
after soaking yer tools in evaporust and cleaned cover them w/ rem-oil.
you can get it in wal*mart or any hunting/sportsman/gun shop.
it comes in a bottle to wipe on or and aerosol can to spray on.
its pretty cheap and works well

Adam.C · Jan 11, 2015

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN said:
Adam.C, how durable is that method and how did you whiten the lettering? That's a nice touch

All the cold blues are less durable than black oxide. They are also thinner. The thing about the Brownell's stuff is that it's really quick and easy to touch up. If you have rusty black oxide, I had a couple wrenches like that and the 2 sockets in my profile pic, you can actually salvage a good deal of the finish. Just remove the rust carefully or chemically.

The white is white crayon, rubbed into the stampings and buffed. That too is surprisingly durable.

Kevin54 · Jan 11, 2015

First off.....flour blast all of the rust off. That will give the metal a very fine finish for wither buffing or whatever you want to do with it. Not sandblast, but flour blast. You can then set around with a cold one and either Scotch-brite the parts, or you can stand around and buff them up

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 11, 2015

Adam, I think I am going to try your finish after electrolysis. How did you make the letters white like you did? Because as stated before, they're tools more for show, so i would lIke for the letters to pop such as yours.

JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN · Jan 11, 2015

Florida_Surveyor said:
Adam, I think I am going to try your finish after electrolysis. How did you make the letters white like you did? Because as stated before, they're tools more for show, so i would lIke for the letters to pop such as yours.

I just asked the same question, he replied that he used white crayon and wiped the excess off. After looking at his profile, he started a thread about it.

Florida_Surveyor · Jan 12, 2015

Sorry, I didn't see that until now. That is a pretty creative idea. About time someone found a use for the white crayons. :lol:

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