What kinda lift do you have?

Roothawg · Apr 21, 2006

I have always wanted one, never been able to decide on which one to buy. I can see value in both types, the 4 post and the 2 post. The 4 post would be easier for storage but would **** if you wanted to rotate tires, do brake work etc. So, you guys that have em, tel me the pros and cons.

tkellytn · Apr 21, 2006

I have the 4 post and I love it. There is time a 2post would be nice but I wanted to be able to leave a car on it and be able to use the space below I got the jack tray with mine and found a jack that is air powered that I just set on it. I can rase the entire front or the rear with the jack. As far as rotating tires I have done that I raised the rear and put some jack stands under it then moved the jack tray to the front.I found some jack stands that have a flat plate on the bottom and they set real good on the rails of the lift.

BoostAddiction · Apr 21, 2006

I have a two-post assymetrical, 7000-lb Rotary.

This is the best of both worlds: it can lift anything I have (including a 6000 lb truck), can be used occasionally as a parking lift, and allows access to anything on the car, esp tires and suspension.

A 4-post takes more space and is really better suited for storage. This week I had the racer on the lift up high with the S4 parked underneath (too lazy to put it back in the trailer until I had too...)

If you doubt it, just pay a visit to any car dealer- they all use 2-post lifts.

-Will

The obligatory pic:

JohnReynolds · Apr 21, 2006

I am having the same dilemma - going back and forth between single-post (no access for service, most expensive, least amount of room), 2 post (great access, lowest cost, big posts in the way that don't move), 4 post (compromise on access vs. storage, middle cost, portable, but four smaller posts always in the way).

Would love to see other comments on the pros and cons - especially ways to make the 2-post storage friendly.

John

rick · Apr 21, 2006

I have a 4 post that works fine for me :beer:

AndrewM · Apr 21, 2006

I don't understand how a 2 post isn't "storage friendly". I park over/under with mine all the time. I put 3 cars in my 2 car garage that way. I can't even go full height on my lift (garage door rail in the way), and I can still go over/under.

I couldn't imagine trying to work around a 4-post lift. The easiest way to pull the motor on my cars (late model Camaros) is to drop it out the bottom - can't do that with a 4-post.

The only disadvantage of a 2-post that I see would be if your concrete isn't up to snuff, a 4-post would probably let you get a lift without concrete work. If you have poor concrete, you could still go 2-post, but you'd have to cut the slab and put some good thick stuff in there. Fortunately the guy who built my shop (previous owner of the house) poured a 6" slab.

bmwpower · Apr 21, 2006

...or if you want to have the ability to move the 4 post lift around, get the caster kit and move it around. Can't do that on a 2 post.

But, I would still go with a 2 post for the reasons mention above. 4 post lifts, in my opinion, are not mechanic friendly.

Ramblur · Apr 21, 2006

Here's mine, 10K lb. Rotary 2-Post. Had all your same concerns before I
got it and looked at every cheesy offshore knock-off out there. Came to
conclusion that this wasn't a place to cheap out. Now, I'm not sure how
I survived without it and am sure that I'll never be without again.

[/IMG]

mikeyr · Apr 21, 2006

Love my 4post and I am not sure why people say you can't drop a motor with a 4post when you can with a 2post, the underneath is wide open. My motors come out the top so I have not tested that theory maybe its because the ramps are too close together but I have pulled many a gearbox and even rear axles on my 4post. Brakes and wheels are no problem either, I have a sliding jack tray and just take all 4 wheels off but I also do brakes and suspension work correctly the first time so its not done that often. That is the only time a 2post would save me maybe 5 minutes.

I recently got a mid-rise scissor lift to sit next to the 4post, now that is cool.

One more point, in my town a 2post requires a permit since it is bolted to the slab, a 4post does not. I assume the city would never hear about your 2post so its just a detail that is best ignored.

For storage, drive on and lift the 4post can't be beat.

fireman · Apr 21, 2006

4 post lifts are the only way to go. They are movable (with or without a car on them), and don't require a 6" concrete slab (most slabs are 4"). You can do anything with a 4 post that you can with a 2 post and you don't have to worry about banging your doors into the posts. I use these - http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a17/jwd60/2006_0325Image0003.jpg and I can do brake work, rotate tires etc, faster than you can with a 2 post. Another advantage of a 4 post is that you can do suspension work (final tightening)and exhaust work with the weight of the car on the tires. Go to any exhaust/ suspension shop and all you'll see are 4 post lifts. The only disadvantage is that 4 post lifts are more expensive than 2 post lifts. :beer:

Steve_S · Apr 21, 2006

Neither. I have two single post lifts. They are by far the best for storage and taking up the least amount of room. However they offer the least underbody access which is only a problem if you want to drop a transmission without pulling the engine. It's still do-able but there are just a couple arms that can get in the way a bit.

Two post lifts are the best for maintenance but the worst for storage. They are less stable in an earthquake and allow the suspension to hang off the car which is not a good idea for long term storage. Also, if parking a car underneath there is no oil drip protection. But they do allow near unlimited underbody access.

Four post lifts are the best compromise but take up the most room. You can move them around unlike the other two types and they do offer good underbody access. For suspension work you will need a jack tray.

kartracer55 · Apr 21, 2006

3 of them.... Bear closed front 15k alignment rack with rolling jacks and hunter alignment system. Another is a Bear 2 post, no idea how heavy but hell I know you can get a ford econoline van on it.

The third is an older challenger 2 post lift. That one is fairly old and has been through hell, and the lock on the right side of the lift doesnt work so you just have to make sure your paying attention "just in case" Other than that, the bear (canadian made) isnt much different, however the main colums seem to be made of a thicker steel and I think the pad height is easier to adjust on the bear. The one thing I dont like about the bear is that the arms have locks on them to prevent them from turning or moving, which tends to piss me off.

I had a problem lifting this kids slammed/body kit honda because the arms wouldnt go low enough.

Just some observations, I find myself using the 4 post lift most often

Jim

bmwpower · Apr 21, 2006

kartracer55 said:
3 of them.... Bear closed front 15k alignment rack with rolling jacks and hunter alignment system. Another is a Bear 2 post, no idea how heavy but hell I know you can get a ford econoline van on it.

The third is an older challenger 2 post lift. That one is fairly old and has been through hell, and the lock on the right side of the lift doesnt work so you just have to make sure your paying attention "just in case" Other than that, the bear (canadian made) isnt much different, however the main colums seem to be made of a thicker steel and I think the pad height is easier to adjust on the bear. The one thing I dont like about the bear is that the arms have locks on them to prevent them from turning or moving, which tends to piss me off.

I had a problem lifting this kids slammed/body kit honda because the arms wouldnt go low enough.

Just some observations, I find myself using the 4 post lift most often

Jim

Are you referring to school? You don't have an alignment rack in your house, do you?

kartracer55 · Apr 21, 2006

No school But hell, Id love one. I just noticed that this said what do you have, I thought it was what do you use but whatever.

Id kill for 3 lifts at the house hahahaha

Jim

EvilEye · Apr 21, 2006

I have a Rotary 9000 lb Asym 2 Post. I have a 66 Gto Vert Resting on it in the up position. and park anything ( almost) under It.
It is American Built and "SAFE" I sit under it and let the grandkids play in the garage under and around it, without any worry's.

Bought it NEW DELIVERED to my HOuse for $2695.00
A few more ( but not much than a Ho Chin MinSpecial )
I have had My F150 Supercab, Sons Chrysler MiniVan Ford Tauras and a few other on it many times. Never a Problem.

No it isn't Portable - Yes I Can Park under It -
Yes I can take the body off the frame of the GTO.
Rear End Trans Engine Work on the GTO is Great with or without the body
on the frame.
Regular maint on vehicles is a breeze.

M2$
EvilEye

bmwpower · Apr 21, 2006

EvilEye said:
I have a Rotary 9000 lb Asym 2 Post. I have a 66 Gto Vert Resting on it in the up position. and park anything ( almost) under It.
It is American Built and "SAFE" I sit under it and let the grandkids play in the garage under and around it, without any worry's.

Bought it NEW DELIVERED to my HOuse for $2695.00
A few more ( but not much than a Ho Chin MinSpecial )
I have had My F150 Supercab, Sons Chrysler MiniVan Ford Tauras and a few other on it many times. Never a Problem.

No it isn't Portable - Yes I Can Park under It -
Yes I can take the body off the frame of the GTO.
Rear End Trans Engine Work on the GTO is Great with or without the body
on the frame.
Regular maint on vehicles is a breeze.

M2$
EvilEye

Alright, where'd you get it for $2695 delivered?? That's cheap!

AndrewM · Apr 21, 2006

mikeyr said:
Love my 4post and I am not sure why people say you can't drop a motor with a 4post when you can with a 2post, the underneath is wide open. My motors come out the top so I have not tested that theory maybe its because the ramps are too close together

To drop my motors, you undo the 6 subframe bolts below, then the 6 strut tower bolts above, & the trans xmember. Then you lift the body of the car off the front suspension - the front wheels, spindles, struts, etc - stay on the floor.

Who here thinks we've totally confused him?

There is no right answer... Do what's best for the car(s) you work on, and the work you do.

krooser · Apr 21, 2006

I've got an older Weaver two post...non-symmetrical...9000lb. I use it both to work on my projects AND storage. Right now the lift has a makeshift platform on it and is loaded with parts....I have my '48 Plymouth stored below it.

I like the two post best....easier to do brake and suspension work on...four post are OK for parking and routine maintenence.

I've used the arms on my lift to load machinery....pull engines...even break beads on tires...pretty versatile.

jstbecauz · Apr 22, 2006

I have two 2 Post Forward 10K lifts and one 4 post Forward 20K lift. I used to have one of mine installed on a floor with only 3" of concrete for several years with no issues, lift was in use every day all day. There are pros to either one. It really depends on your use. As far as ease of use and stability the 4 post is great. You just drive up on it and you are all set, no setting up the lift and all four wheels are touching the lift. For flexibility the 2 post is by far more accommodating. My 2 posts are used far more than the 4 post but I really like having them both. Like I said there are several things that are easier about a 4 post but many things that can not be done without the 2 post without some hassle. After all that it is really up to your needs I guess.

bmwpower · Apr 22, 2006

Donzi4me posted this a while back...

http://www.mohawklifts.com/consumer/tire.php

For those that are worried about the suspension hanging with a 2 post lift. In my opinion, makes a 2 post an even better option. But they probably don't fit a Rotary lift though (which is what I want to get).

carcentric · Apr 22, 2006

I've mentioned it here before, but I can't complain at all about my Bend-Pak LR-60. Stable, reliable, under $1300 when I bought mine 10-15 years ago and not much more than that now.

If you have a 8' ceiling, this is the ONLY way to go.

jonny1309 · Apr 25, 2006

frankenfab said:
I have a Snap-On mid rise lift. It works okay, but not great. It's excellent for brakes and tire work. You can do some under car work in a rolling seat, but the structure of the lift gets in the way sometimes. I have lifted a full size van on it before. You can get similar lifts for a lot less money if you buy from someone other than Snap-On.

frankenfab,

How high does your lift go?

jonny1309 · Apr 25, 2006

frankenfab, thanks for the info. I think either lift should suit my needs. I want the lift to work on vintage VW's which don't have much of anything to access between the front and rear wheels. BTW, where do you place the jack stand when you are at partial height?

Speed Shop · Apr 25, 2006

Carcentric...what kind of work have you been able to do with the LR-60? What can't you do with it? Like to know if I can pull a trans or do a clutch change. I'm building a new garage this summer and it will have a 10.5' ceiling. Looking for something that I can move around yet be versatile.

oldskewl61 · Apr 26, 2006

i dug a 3ftx20ft trench 6ft deep in the yard HA!HA!

mangomadness · Apr 26, 2006

4 post and i really like it. I just finished the ceiling on my shop and used the lift with the casters like a large scaffold.It really worked great made the job a whole lot easier.
Mine is built in USA from All American Lifts in Kansas. cheers!

http://allamericanlifts.com/

32roadster · Apr 26, 2006

I have a kwiklift.
Had it about 6 years now - portable, moveable, pretty nice little lift.

Really nice for low ceiling.

www.kwiklift.com

OldCarGuy · Apr 26, 2006

After years of personal debate over the issue of 4-post verses 2-post lifts, I always ended up with purchasing the 4-post model. Consequently I now own five Stinger http://www.stingerlifts.com/ 4-post lifts. However after much research I finally took the plunge and purchased a 2-post lift.

Because of my apprehension of working under a 2-post lift and the parameters to fit into my garage, I set the following criteria:

1) It had to be made in the USA with USA steel and components
2) A clear floor is most desirable
3) Although I have a 12’ ceiling, I didn’t want to limit the travel of my bridge crane. Therefore I was limited to a 10’ overall post height that ruled out any lift with an overhead cable.
4) Cost wasn’t a factor. As I never put a price on my safety. And I sure don’t want to work under anything that was made in China

Rotary www.rotarylift.com would have been my first choice at $3200.00 delivered; but they only offer overhead cable models.

I ruled out Bend Pak’s XL-9 and XL-9X at only $2400.00 delivered because one of their engineers told me all their models were actually made in China and just assembled in their USA plants. Also their lifting cylinders were only 2 ½” diameter, and I’d have to live with a floor plate. http://www.bendpak.com/default.isg?cPath=216

Ben Pearson’s still makes a line of American lifts to compliment their Chinese made Baymaster series. They are priced at about $4,000.00 delivered. Also have 2 ½” cylinders and I would have to live with a floor plate. http://www.ben-pearson.com/automotive-lifts.shtml

Worth’s line of lifts are probably the best bang for your buck, 10,000 pound model @ $2950.00 including shipping. Totally made in Texas USA, with a substantial amount of steel compared to most along with 3” cylinders and 1 ½” rods. http://www.worthequipment.com/2postlifts.htm

The one I chose was the “10,000 pound System I” by Mohawk. Every other lift I investigated simply looked like a toy compared to the Mohawk. First off they are made in the USA with American steel with a 2 ½ HP Boldar motor that is stamped made in the USA. It doesn’t have either a floor plate or any overhead cables. And the two 3/8” diameter seamless stainless steel hydraulic lines can be rerouted in the cement floor or overhead. They are constructed with almost twice as much steel as any I have seen. Each carriage is guided by Eight roller bearings in solid ¾” thick steel channels. All the others use plastic slides riding in 1/8” formed steel. The cylinders have 4” diameter pistons with 2 ¾” piston rods (that’s larger than cylinders pistons used by others) Made in the USA and guaranteed for Life! You don’t need to worry asymmetrical or symmetrical and about the doors hitting the columns, the Mohawk’s recommended columns spacing is 10’ apart.

http://www.mohawklifts.com/consumer/system1.php

Like I said, “Nothings else compares to a Mohawk!” Not even close. And the price as well,, $5,850.00 delivered. Though price is short remembered as quality lives on…

Unloading from my trailer using overhead bridge crane.

Routing of 3/8” Stainless steel hydraulic lines.

Cylinder, chain and carriage

OldCarGuy · Jul 10, 2006

My new Mohawk two-post lift in action,, installing some mods on my New Avalanche. Didn’t even have to pull in the larger camper style mirrors..

I just returned from New Jersey where I traded my 2003 Avalanche for one of the few remaining 2500 in the country. After logging in 1200 miles and 36 hours with my 67' OAL 40,000+ pound motor home and car hauler. It wasn’t a trouble-free trip. Besides getting lost because of bad directions from Yahoo maps; $125.00 in tolls, 140 gallons of diesel fuel, and paying an additional $500.00 to the dealer than the agreed upon price. I question the integrity of this New Jersey dealership; but that’s another story all together. Maybe just car dealers in general. I ended up paying almost $2,000.00 more than I would have paid my local dealer for the same truck! They knew they had me.

bmwpower · Jul 10, 2006

Man, sorry to hear that. I hope I steered you right with the parking lot thing.

Nice looking lift, BTW.

OldCarGuy · Jul 10, 2006

bmwpower said:
Man, sorry to hear that. I hope I steered you right with the parking lot thing.

Nice looking lift, BTW.

With all the road construction I decided to get a couple winks at 2:30 AM at the last rest stop on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. I never did find I-676 that Yahoo told me to take. There a trucker told me to continue on I-76 then go North on route 130 once I go over the bridge into New Jersey. Bad advice, I traveled 45 minutes and finally found a Lowes with a Home Depot across the street. But no Chevrolet dealership. Stopped at a gas station for directions. Wouldn’t you know it they couldn’t speak English! Stopped a second time, does anyone in New Jersey speak English? Finally flagged down a UPS driver, had to turn my rig around. Those nasty U-turns aren’t meant for a vehicle 67’ long! Waited for a low in traffic and from the far right lane crossed over the median into the far right lane in the opposite direction to complete the U-turn.

An hour later I came across another Lowes and Home Depot followed by the Chevrolet Dealership. Just past the exit I turned onto route 130 in the first place.

PAToyota · Jul 10, 2006

Pretty sweet setup with the overhead crane, OldCarGuy. I've been considering a similar setup in my shop. Is that a particular brand or custom built?

OldCarGuy · Jul 10, 2006

PAToyota said:
Pretty sweet setup with the overhead crane, OldCarGuy. I've been considering a similar setup in my shop. Is that a particular brand or custom built?

It’s a homemade bridge crane with a 27’ span bridge beam and 45’ long runway beams. A write-up can be found in the Garage Gallery.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2122&page=6

PAToyota · Jul 10, 2006

OldCarGuy, thanks for the link. That is just the sort of thing I was looking for. Bookmarked it and will have to go through the whole thread. Great shop!

rogabbott · Jul 10, 2006

A career mechanic friend of mine once said, "Match the tool to the job." I have both: a four post and a two post asymmetrical. Here is my opinion: for getting the car on and off, the four post has the advantage. However, for working under the car, I use the two post lift. The two post provides pretty much unlimited access to the underside of the car. I use it to raise the car to a comfortable working level. I am tall and my back gives out pretty quick if I have to bend over for extended periods.

If you have room for only one lift, I recommend the two post asymmetrical.

One thing I don't do with a lift is leave a car up in the air if I am not present. I have seen one instance where for reasons unknown, the car fell off the lift when the dealer's shop was closed for the night. It was a new car, at least until it fell.

AHotRod · Jul 20, 2006

rogabbott said:
A career mechanic friend of mine once said, "Match the tool to the job." I have both: a four post and a two post asymmetrical. Here is my opinion: for getting the car on and off, the four post has the advantage. However, for working under the car, I use the two post lift. The two post provides pretty much unlimited access to the underside of the car. I use it to raise the car to a comfortable working level. I am tall and my back gives out pretty quick if I have to bend over for extended periods.

If you have room for only one lift, I recommend the two post asymmetrical.

One thing I don't do with a lift is leave a car up in the air if I am not present. I have seen one instance where for reasons unknown, the car fell off the lift when the dealer's shop was closed for the night. It was a new car, at least until it fell.

Very good points, Thanks.

JohnZ · Jul 20, 2006

I have a Cytech Double-Park (www.doublepark.net); top-quality materials and manufacture (U.S.-made), bought it six years ago with all the options. It's been up and down probably 200 times, no problems. :thumbup:

autoist · Jul 20, 2006

I've got this one:

http://www.metro-lifts.com/four-post-garage-lift.html

& my QuikLift:

RAYJAY · Jul 20, 2006

frankenfab said:
I have a Snap-On mid rise lift. It works okay, but not great. It's excellent for brakes and tire work. You can do some under car work in a rolling seat, but the structure of the lift gets in the way sometimes. I have lifted a full size van on it before. You can get similar lifts for a lot less money if you buy from someone other than Snap-On.

how high are your ceilings ??

Jeff

AHotRod · Sep 26, 2007

What lift would you use if you have 10 foot ceilings ?

Glenn

What kinda lift do you have?

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