VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

drivesitfar · Jul 21, 2015

ALL: thanks all for your thoughts. just thinking about the drilling of a few small holes to help the Devcon or JB adhere better. would it also be better to not only clean the surfaces as good as possible and maybe heat the vise up so the Devcon or JB is not trying to bond with a cold surface? or does it matter?

i know for paint it's best to either paint around 60 degrees so maybe putting putty on a warm surface might work better. any heat applied after or just air dry and sand? I've heard JB weld actually leaves a little depression if you put it in wet flush and it sounds like Devcon doesn't which would be a plus if true.

thanks again

ironhorsemachinery · Jul 21, 2015

I have never used Devcon, but surface prep is critical for any epoxy-based adhesive or filler. Rough is good; holes or grooves also good. Oil or other contaminants are bad, so acetone or a similar cleaner is essential. I don't know whether a warmer surface helps, but in any case the normal JB takes several hours to cure and is relatively liquid, so while it doesn't shrink during curing, you can get low spots due to running or slumping while it is still liquid. There is lots of info at jbweld.com

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vintage nut · Jul 22, 2015

In my knifemaking I have used a ton of epoxy, and figured out a lot of tricks the hard way. Firstly, epoxy has a shelf life and a bond life. The stuff I use (west systems) has a 10 year shelf life, and a 50 year bond life. (basically guaranteed not to degrade in strength for at least 50 years) cheap 5 minute epoxy from home Depot and such generally has a 6 month shelf life and a 5 year bond life. Jb weld is a lot better, although I'm not sure if it is as good as west systems. West systems was designed for boat building, both bonding wood frames, and laminating fiberglass with far more strength than normal fiberglass resin. Unlike some epoxys, it is absolutely waterproof, and has much better heat resistance.
It mixes water clear and maple syrup thickness. You add different fillers to make it how you need it. For filling on metal I add a fair bit of aluminum powder, and then colodial silica until it is at the thickness I need. I have tested the mixing cup after it cures, and it takes a very substantial beating with a hammer to get the stuff to break, and even then it won't shatter or anything.
Surface prep is key. First off degrease it multiple times with acetone and a clean, new cloth or paper towel. Then take a clean new piece of sandpaper or red scotchbright and scuff it all down really well. After this wipe it off with a clean dry cloth or paper towel and apply the epoxy. Don't use compressed air, as it can contain small oil droplets which will impact the bonding.

Another thing to keep in mind is that generally the slower epoxy cures, the stronger it is. I personally recommend west systems, although it is expensive and only comes in large quantities. Other options that would be a step up from jb weld and devcon are loctite E-120hp hysol (although it needs a special applicator gun) or brownells acraglas (rifle bedding compound, possibly even tougher than west systems)

drivesitfar · Jul 22, 2015

VN: thanks for your great post about more options and methods to use when cleaning up an old cast surface. i edited post #7 of the thread that is for repairs and put in some of your products you use. if you need me to add anything to that just say so. hope you are enjoying your summer

ALL: so i started the 101 thread with a post for members that are willing to repair or spiff up vises for other members and i have yet to put any names in that posting. i know a lot of you have the talent, but i also know it takes a many hours to restore or repair old vises so if any of you are willing to do the job for other members for money or tools just let me know and tell me the area you live in or zip for shipping. Members can PM each other to work out deals and would love to see the before and after pictures here on the 101 thread.

any members want to get on the list as a source for other members that don't have the skills, tools or time to make their old vise shine just say the word.

i'd put my name on first because i do like vises and every member I've met in person so far, but i wont at this time until i perfect my skills and get more of the right tools. maybe some day soon i'll have more than farm fresh vises to sell or be able to spiff one of your vises up for you and until then i'll still watch and learn.

anybody want on the list you can make a post or PM me??

caesar2001 · Jul 22, 2015

drivesitfar said:
ALL: so i started the 101 thread with a post for members that are willing to repair or spiff up vises for other members and i have yet to put any names in that posting. i know a lot of you have the talent, but i also know it takes a many hours to restore or repair old vises so if any of you are willing to do the job for other members for money or tools just let me know and tell me the area you live in or zip for shipping.

I think this is a great idea. I don't think I will add myself to the list at this time (i've only worked on one thus far).

drivesitfar · Jul 23, 2015

Caesar: i thought so too, but maybe the guys (and gals) only want to restore vises for themselves or to sell on Ebay.

ALL: anybody want on the list as the member another member can pay you to restore a vise?

I just picked up this American Machine and Tool company woodworker's patter vise that is pretty cool and it was made in Taiwan maybe in the 1960's and not sure of the date because they still make new ones. it also is a company not on the big vise company list so i'm adding that now. i'm going to have to build a thick wood bench before i can mount it because my 2 inch butcher block bench isn't thick enough. also here's a couple videos about how to use this vise if you happen to find one. it is very close to the size and looks of a Emmert patternmaker's vise and i'm wondering if AMT bought the patent.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/patternmakerswoodworkingvise.aspx

ironhorsemachinery · Jul 23, 2015

For me it is primarily a lack of available time, rather than a lack of interest or willingness. I can barely keep up with my own projects! [emoji3]

So, while I think this is a great idea, I don't think I can offer up any services at this point.

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drivesitfar · Jul 23, 2015

IH: i'm sure that is why others haven't stepped up and wanted to be on the list. is that Alien Reed behaving or does he need a new home.

ALL: if anybody does have the time and the skills just say the word and i'll put your name up on the list. if you are not a regular poster showing your restorations maybe show a few and start posting more so the members will get to know you.

ironhorsemachinery · Jul 23, 2015

Drives: REED has accepted life on earth, and in my shop. We are building a small maple top bench that will serve as its home ...

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jeffhay · Jul 23, 2015

I finished an Athol 614 1/2. I did an electrolysis bath, wire wheel on the unpainted parts, rustoleum self etching primer and Duplicolor GM Light Blue Metallic paint, Johnson paste wax on the handle and unpainted parts and anti-seize on the screw.

drivesitfar · Jul 23, 2015

Jeff: thanks for posting your restoration. nice job and great explanation. just curious does your Athol 614.5 have removable jaws and can you post a couple pictures?

IH: :bounce:

jeffhay · Jul 23, 2015

It does not have removable jaws.

ironhorsemachinery · Jul 23, 2015

Jeffhay: very nice restoration! Looks great!

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G20-Budo · Jul 23, 2015

As others have said, great job Jeff on the restore. It looks great now.

Gert · Jul 24, 2015

How I removed a non original sleeve from the main spindle of my Reed 106.

It looks like a previous owner made a new sleeve and attached it by a pin all the way through.
I want to remove the sleeve to get rid a little slop and to be able to sandblast.

I drilled the pin both sides and no deeper than the thickness of the sleeve on my mini mill (it looks more mini with such a big piece of vise).
I am going to make a new sleeve and attach it with a screw, like it was done originaly.
In the latest picuture you can see the original notch.

I will remove the remains of the pin from the spindle and weld the hole.

Man vs pin: 1 : 0

Cheers !

GETRIDAONE · Jul 24, 2015

Gert, I like your holding fixture ! I bet it took an hour to rig that up and 30 seconds to drill it.
That is a common problem with a set screw on large vises. The screw reams the hole out when moving the heavy dynamic slide.

drivesitfar · Jul 24, 2015

Gert: i bet your arms are a little sore from moving even just the dynamic of that big Reed around. nice that you figured it out and thanks for posting pictures here so others have an idea on how to remove an old owner's modification.

i also agree with Get that your set up to hold the vise in place to drill is awesome.

have a great weekend

Mark in Indiana · Jul 24, 2015

drivesitfar said:
ALL: so i started the 101 thread with a post for members that are willing to repair or spiff up vises for other members and i have yet to put any names in that posting. i know a lot of you have the talent, but i also know it takes a many hours to restore or repair old vises so if any of you are willing to do the job for other members for money or tools just let me know and tell me the area you live in or zip for shipping. Members can PM each other to work out deals and would love to see the before and after pictures here on the 101 thread.

any members want to get on the list as a source for other members that don't have the skills, tools or time to make their old vise shine just say the word.

i'd put my name on first because i do like vises and every member I've met in person so far, but i wont at this time until i perfect my skills and get more of the right tools. maybe some day soon i'll have more than farm fresh vises to sell or be able to spiff one of your vises up for you and until then i'll still watch and learn.

anybody want on the list you can make a post or PM me??

All:
To give you the information that I gave Drives last night: I've recently retired about 6 months ago. Now, I just farm and resell tools & equipment. It's a great occupation because of the tool enthusiasts that I get to meet. So I have plenty of opportunities to schedule commissioned vise restorations.

About my commissioned restorations: Commissioned restorations are a privilege to do because I'm able to create a family heirloom from the rusty old vise in their garage. The vise will be disassembled, inspected, cleaned down to the bare metal as needed, primed/painted, bare metal details polished, clear coated, lubricated, and reassembled. Nicks & dings (or the vise's character) are cleaned up, but not erased. BTW; I usually detail the embellishments for free. Prices start around $100.00. Everything I do is local, but I'm sure that shipping & payment can be worked out.

Attached are some before & after pictures;

drivesitfar · Jul 24, 2015

Mark: thanks for volunteering to restore vises for other members if they either don't have the time or the skills currently. you've been added to the list on post #11 and I've mentioned that members can PM you to make negotiations and arrangements for drop off and pick up.

have a great day

ironhorsemachinery · Jul 24, 2015

Gert: nice job! When you put it back together, it might be worth drilling and tapping for two opposing set screws to hold the collar more securely.

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jakemac · Jul 24, 2015

Gert said:
How I removed a non original sleeve from the main spindle of my Reed 106.

It looks like a previous owner made a new sleeve and attached it by a pin all the way through.
I want to remove the sleeve to get rid a little slop and to be able to sandblast.

I drilled the pin both sides and no deeper than the thickness of the sleeve on my mini mill (it looks more mini with such a big piece of vise).
I am going to make a new sleeve and attach it with a screw, like it was done originaly.
In the latest picuture you can see the original notch.

I will remove the remains of the pin from the spindle and weld the hole.

Man vs pin: 1 : 0

Cheers !

You may be able to find a sleeve at your local hardware store in the parts bins. Home Depot or Lowes may have one that will fit as well.

Gert · Jul 24, 2015

Getridaone It took me indeed about an hour to set this up. I must admit that KMScott showed my this setup earlier in another thread. The dynamic slide rests on two places - the jaw and a piece of aluminium. The clamp on the knob is to prevent any movement from the spindle. Works like a charm.
If it is a common problem with a set screw, than the pin all the way through is not a bad solution after all.

Drivesitfar Not only my arms. I feel muscles that I did not know I have.

Ironhorsemachinery I like the idea of two opposing set screws. I think I am going for that solution.

Jakemac Thanks for the hardware store tip. I live in the Netherlands, Europe. We don't have Home Depot or Lowes here. No problem. I have a lathe and will make one myself. That gives me the opportunity to choose the material. I think of Bronze or a soft kind of steel. I hate rust so I guess bronze it will be.

jakemac · Jul 24, 2015

Gert said:
Jakemac Thanks for the hardware store tip. I live in the Netherlands, Europe. We don't have Home Depot or Lowes here. No problem. I have a lathe and will make one myself. That gives me the opportunity to choose the material. I think of Bronze or a soft kind of steel. I hate rust so I guess bronze it will be.

Oops. I forgot to look at your location. Sorry. My bad.

drivesitfar · Jul 24, 2015

Jake: while i might not help Gert other members and lurkers benefitted from your wisdom.

Gert: gotta love a big vise because you are very aware when it comes to your shop. how's the Wilton C1 or was it a C2 that you painted bright red doing? or did it find another good home so you'll have room for Mr. Reed?

Gert · Jul 25, 2015

Gert: gotta love a big vise because you are very aware when it comes to your shop. how's the Wilton C1 or was it a C2 that you painted bright red doing? or did it find another good home so you'll have room for Mr. Reed?

It's a C2. Amazing that you remember that :thumbup:

. Nooooo, I cannot seperate from Mr. Wilton. It's inside my house on a small portable bench.

Like this:

jrobb316 · Jul 30, 2015

Anyone who has restored a reed vise with a split nut set up, I am using the original shim. How did you adjust the split nut depth versus the set screw that adjusts the main nut? Adjust both so there is just a hair of endplay in the main nut and the spindle handle? Thanks for your advise

bagged89s10 · Jul 30, 2015

jrobb316 said:
Anyone who has restored a reed vise with a split nut set up, I am using the original shim. How did you adjust the split nut depth versus the set screw that adjusts the main nut? Adjust both so there is just a hair of endplay in the main nut and the spindle handle? Thanks for your advise

Do you mean a shim behind the split nut?Mine didn't have a shim but I need to put one it so the handle is perfectly perpendicular when closed. For the main nut, I just tightened the screw all the way so there isn't any play.

jrobb316 · Jul 31, 2015

Yes there was a shim (washer) between the jaw and the spindle. It was in very good shape so no issue with that. Or else the spindle would be riding directly on the casting. I adjusted the split nut so there was just a hair of end play in the spindle. Do the same with the adjustment screw for the main nut?

partsproduction · Jul 31, 2015

Hi,
I need to know what the thread size is for a tiny vise. My second Boley, this one came missing one jaw and the half circle retainer under the main screw handle. All three screws were broken off flush, and I need to know what thread they are.
This Boley is the one with jaws 1 3/16" wide, the screws are tiny, maybe 1-72? If anyone knows of a source for screws and that retainer and especially the missing jaw I'd sure like to hear about it.
Thanks,
parts

drivesitfar · Jul 31, 2015

PP: can you post a few pictures of your vise so if a member pops in on this thread he can see them and maybe help you? sorry i don't think I own a Boley and wish i did.

bagged89s10 · Aug 1, 2015

VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

Started taking my Parker 383-1/2 apart. This is the cleanest vise I've own yet. Look how clean the swivel base is. No rust!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438444100.811927.jpg

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The pin for the swivel jaw came out almost too easy. All I could find was a piece of 3/8" stainless tubing. I stuck it in through the swivel bolt hole and 1 knock and the pin flew across the garage. I did soak the pin in acetone/atf for a day and a half.

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Now a slowly tapped the swivel jaw with a block of wood and hammer and applied more penetrant until I got it to turn 90 degrees in either way. It's still tight but I have yet to remove the swivel jaw completely.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438444387.570845.jpg

Now my question. Does the swivel jaw just sit in there? You can see the round part of the jaw from inside. Can I just tap it out? I don't want to accidentally break it.

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McBrownie · Aug 1, 2015

Re: VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

bagged89s10 said:
Started taking my Parker 383-1/2 apart. This is the cleanest vise I've own yet. Look how clean the swivel base is. No rust!

Now my question. Does the swivel jaw just sit in there? You can see the round part of the jaw from inside. Can I just tap it out? I don't want to accidentally break it.

Bagged,
I'm not sure about yours, but on other Parker swivel jaws, there is a pin on the "Meriden" side of the static jaw that holds the swivel jaw in place. It might just look like part of the casting at this point. I don't have a picture, but I think there might be one on Dayid's site. Nice vise, btw.

bagged89s10 · Aug 1, 2015

Re: VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

McBrownie said:
Bagged,

I'm not sure about yours, but on other Parker swivel jaws, there is a pin on the "Meriden" side of the static jaw that holds the swivel jaw in place. It might just look like part of the casting at this point. I don't have a picture, but I think there might be one on Dayid's site. Nice vise, btw.

I'm assuming you're talking about the river looking pin? Right above the USA in this pic.
How do I get that thing out?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438452151.676073.jpg

brooker · Aug 1, 2015

You drive it out (carefully) from the other side. It's a 3" long pin with a "head" on the side you see in the photo above the USA mark. Clean up the other side a little if you can't locate the end of the the pin, and it will appear. Once it's out you can lift out the swivel jaw to clean, lubricate etc the mechanism. You'll immediately understand the whole thing once you see it taken apart. Great vise.

bagged89s10 · Aug 1, 2015

brooker said:
You drive it out (carefully) from the other side. It's a 3" long pin with a "head" on the side you see in the photo above the USA mark. Clean up the other side a little if you can't locate the end of the the pin, and it will appear. Once it's out you can lift out the swivel jaw to clean, lubricate etc the mechanism. You'll immediately understand the whole thing once you see it taken apart. Great vise.

Ok so I'm picturing the swivel jaw kind of riding on the pin. Makes sense. Thanks for the help and I will post here when I take it out.

McBrownie · Aug 1, 2015

Gert said:
It's a C2. Amazing that you remember that . Nooooo, I cannot seperate from Mr. Wilton. It's inside my house on a small portable bench.

Like this:

Gert,

That is a great looking Wilton and it looks like it is sitting on a blue frame Workmate. Those are a bit rare and it would be great if you could post some pics of it on the Workmate thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92136

Fretters · Aug 2, 2015

McBrownie said:
...and it looks like it is sitting on a blue frame Workmate. Those are a bit rare and it would be great if you could post some pics of it on the Workmate thread.

I honestly can't believe there's a Workmate thread.

Next time I dig it out, I'll pop a photo of mine on there. It's usually well out the way, buried under something, seeing as those poxy leg retainer clips are knacked. That thing tries it's damnedest to shin one when it's folded for storage, if it's not well out of the way.

Btw, ****** nerds. Workmate thread indeed. There'll be one about vices next. :evil:

glenn27 · Aug 2, 2015

The only problem--"Drives" here with that brand of paint--NO ONE carries it locally, single can or at all---and it order on line--have to buy a case. I only need one can.....

glenn

Outlawmws · Aug 2, 2015

Fretters said:
I honestly can't believe there's a Workmate thread. Next time I dig it out, I'll pop a photo of mine on there. It's usually well out the way, buried under something, seeing as those poxy leg retainer clips are knacked. That thing tries it's damnedest to shin one when it's folded for storage, if it's not well out of the way.

Btw, ****** nerds. Workmate thread indeed. There'll be one about vices next.

Or clamps

bagged89s10 · Aug 2, 2015

Well that was easy. The pin came right out with a punch and light hammering.

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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

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