New to me Compressor 5HP T30 oldschool pump

motofool33 · Apr 21, 2015

Hey guys so i brought home this compressor yesterday, she starts up good sounds nice n quiet as she pressures up but after she hits 175PSI it cuts off with my new installed pressure switch, it leaks down to 125psi just sitting after about 5-10mins. and the compressor tries to start up and pump back up but it cant. it hits the overload on the motor.

So what are my options will a magnetic starter help or do i need a new check valve inbetween the stages?

also i think ill be replacing the pressure switch again as this one from northern tool does not allow me to adjust the pressure differential i beleive is the term for low pressure kick on.

pics are here

LS6 Tommy · Apr 21, 2015

Install an unloader.

Tommy

The Cobbler · Apr 21, 2015

yup, it's missing the unloader to decompress the cylinder . also , IMO, the pipe from the compressor to the tank should be flexible

motofool33 · Apr 21, 2015

It has one of these on the finned tube leaving the large head, do I just need a new one? Also what psi should it be?

Or do I need a different kind of unloader?

A_Pmech · Apr 21, 2015

Moto,

From what I can see, you're in need of a check valve between the pump and the receiver and an unloader to bleed down the pump after it stops. Your pressure switch may have an unloader function built-in.

motofool33 · Apr 21, 2015

A_Pmech said:
Moto,

From what I can see, you're in need of a check valve between the pump and the receiver and an unloader to bleed down the pump after it stops. Your pressure switch may have an unloader function built-in.

this is the pressure switch i installed, im assuming it doesn't have an unloader function.

unless its related to the brass fitting on the back that to me seems to do nothing on the switch.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_42428_42428?isSearch=16152

assuming i have to install an unloader where do i plumb it ibetween the two stages? or in inbetween the compressor and the tank?

any recomendations on an unloader/pressure switch combo that i can adjust cut in and cut out pressure.

A_Pmech · Apr 21, 2015

motofool33 said:
this is the pressure switch i installed, im assuming it doesn't have an unloader function.

unless its related to the brass fitting on the back that to me seems to do nothing on the switch.

assuming i have to install an unloader where do i plumb it ibetween the two stages? or in inbetween the compressor and the tank?

That brass fitting is the unloader.

In short, there must be a check valve between the receiver and the pump. The unloader port on the switch is then hooked up to the compressor outlet BEFORE the check valve. When the compressor is switched off, the unloader bleeds all the pressure out of the pump and the line between the pump and receiver. This allows for low-load starting.

motofool33 · Apr 21, 2015

A_Pmech said:
That brass fitting is the unloader.

In short, there must be a check valve between the receiver and the pump. The unloader port on the switch is then hooked up to the compressor outlet BEFORE the check valve. When the compressor is switched off, the unloader bleeds all the pressure out of the pump and the line between the pump and receiver. This allows for low-load starting.

When you say receiver, do you mean the 2nd stage pump or the tank?

there is a check valve on the finned tube, but its kinda old i want to replace that one but not sure what PSI it should be.

A_Pmech · Apr 21, 2015

motofool33 said:
When you say receiver, do you mean the 2nd stage pump or the tank?

there is a check valve on the finned tube, but its kinda old i want to replace that one but not sure what PSI it should be.

Moto,

Yup! Receiver = tank.

Since it already has a check valve, you can test it to see if it works. If it does, all you need to do is plumb up the unloader.

motofool33 · Apr 21, 2015

A_Pmech said:
Moto,

Yup! Receiver = tank.

Since it already has a check valve, you can test it to see if it works. If it does, all you need to do is plumb up the unloader.

Okay so if i understand things correctly a check valve is placed in the pipe going to the tank from the pump (large solid pipe on left side of picture), and between the check valve and the pump you install connection to the unloader valve on the back of the pressure switch. and on the time the pressure switch opens it depress's the unloader needle valve and bleeds off the pressure.

now a couple questions other then being sized appropriatly for the NPT fittings are there any other considerations for the check valve?

A_Pmech · Apr 21, 2015

motofool33 said:
Okay so if i understand things correctly a check valve is placed in the pipe going to the tank from the pump (large solid pipe on left side of picture), and between the check valve and the pump you install connection to the unloader valve on the back of the pressure switch. and on the time the pressure switch opens it depress's the unloader needle valve and bleeds off the pressure.

now a couple questions other then being sized appropriatly for the NPT fittings are there any other considerations for the check valve?

Moto,

That's it!

I like disc-type check valves for air, but many types of check valves are rated for compressed air.

You might look at in-tank valves specifically designed for air compressors in your size range. They're generally less expensive than standard check valves. Then, you can plumb the compressor to the receiver with copper tubing, which is much easier to work with.

motofool33 · Apr 22, 2015

Thanks for the help guys I'll check the fitting sizes when I go today and start searching for a valve.

nickelTwin · Apr 22, 2015

Did that refrigerated air dryer on the floor come with the compressor? Or have you had it awhile. How well do you think it works?

motofool33 · Apr 23, 2015

nickelTwin said:
Did that refrigerated air dryer on the floor come with the compressor? Or have you had it awhile. How well do you think it works?

I bought that unit from Harbor Freight, around december with a 25% off coupon. first one arrived damaged half the box was missing called them up they sent out a label and i returned it and this one came in much better condition i haven't tried it out yet cause until this week i didn't have a compressor except a gas powered hitachi.

the dryer was under 300$

the reviews on here they work great. ive used larger ones that cost much more before.

Fixnair · Apr 24, 2015

The picture your #4 post is of a pressure relief valve. That is for your inter-stage. The finned tubing going from the large cylinder to the smaller cylinder. It's pressure rating should be 50 to 60 PSIG.

The check valve should be installed where your discharge line enters the receiver. The check valve should have an 1/8" pipe port on the side to be connected to the brass unloader valve on the bottom of your pressure switch. Use 1/4" copper tubing to make the connection.

Good score on the compressor. That brand is an excellent compressor by the way.

motofool33 · Apr 24, 2015

Fixnair said:
The picture your #4 post is of a pressure relief valve. That is for your inter-stage. The finned tubing going from the large cylinder to the smaller cylinder. It's pressure rating should be 50 to 60 PSIG.

The check valve should be installed where your discharge line enters the receiver. The check valve should have an 1/8" pipe port on the side to be connected to the brass unloader valve on the bottom of your pressure switch. Use 1/4" copper tubing to make the connection.

Good score on the compressor. That brand is an excellent compressor by the way.

Thanks, I was there last night no check valve or port at all, previous owner must of had the pressure set pretty low to work this way.

I'm headed back to work out of town on rotation so won't get the chance to fix all that for a while.

mellamoesrico · Apr 24, 2015

The little brass valve in your last picture is actually a relief valve, not an unloader valve. It is normally screwed into a fitting directly on the tank. Its only purpose is to open up and divert excess pressure out of the tank should the pump "run away" on you, like if the contacts on the pressure switch got stuck closed. You can google PSV for more info.

One giveaway is the little ring on top that allows you to manually open it occasionally to prevent it from becoming "welded" closed by corrosion.

I don't see how this part could properly be used in an unloader line, if that is your intention, since it will probably just stay closed unless it sees much higher pressure (like 200 psi). It is like having a closed valve on the end of your unloader line, again if that is where it is placed. I can't see enough detail on your first two picures to tell exactly how yours is set up. It may be that it is just in parallel with your pressure switch, making a remotely mounted relief valve, which is OK but not ideal.

You might try to find a new pressure switch with an integrated unloader feature. Or you could get the pnemautic unloader valve from Harbor freight. Or you could get an electric solenoid valve and timer and rig up your own.

motofool33 · Apr 24, 2015

The Square D pressure switch I put on that I linked above comes with a built in unloader. I just didn't know what it was until the guys earlier in the thread helped me see it.

So my plan is to remove the large copper hard pipe install a check valve. And plumb the 1/8npt port on that check valve to the unloader built into the square d pressure switch. And for the rest of the pipe replace with a hydraulic pressure rated hose that flex with the compressors cycles.

hogdaddy · May 1, 2015

Here's mine its has similar T30 pump. It has a pressure switch on compressor and magnetic starter on wall.

motofool33 · Jul 26, 2015

hogdaddy said:
Here's mine its has similar T30 pump. It has a pressure switch on compressor and magnetic starter on wall.

hogdaddy can you post a better pic of the large port where the check valve is on your tank? what is the silver piece sticking out?

im getting ready to order parts for mine so it works as intended

im looking at these check valves:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INGERSOLL-R...139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41544be0d3

This unit has a place for PRV (pressure relief valve) 1/8" port My question is what pressure should this be 200psi?

and a place (1/4 NPT) for the unloader line to run back to the Pressure switch

Norcal · Jul 27, 2015

hogdaddy said:
Here's mine its has similar T30 pump. It has a pressure switch on compressor and magnetic starter on wall.

OH OH, this could be the beginning of another PVC airline thread. :lol_hitti

motofool33 said:
It has one of these on the finned tube leaving the large head, do I just need a new one? Also what psi should it be?

Or do I need a different kind of unloader?

To the OP, the brass valve pictured is a safety, if the pressure switch contacts welded closed, or what happened my case, the magnetic starter contacts welded closed, the valve opens to relieve excess pressure rather then rupturing the tank.

motofool33 · Jul 27, 2015

Norcal said:
OH OH, this could be the beginning of another PVC airline thread.

To the OP, the brass valve pictured is a safety, if the pressure switch contacts welded closed, or what happened my case, the magnetic starter contacts welded closed, the valve opens to relieve excess pressure rather then rupturing the tank.

Thanks for the reply Norcal but that reply is a little late to the game. I am now trying to sort out the proper layout of replacing the hardline from the pump head to the tank. it has no pressure check valve, so i will be installing one like i just linked. just trying to figure out which psi to put on the PRV, im thinking it cant be any less then 175 its gotta be 200psi otherwise it will just open trying to fill the tank.

oh and on the pic that hogdaddy posted that PVC line is the air intake or air filter connection not a pressure line, thats down below on the left leaving the tank

Mr onetwo · Jul 27, 2015

You should give Ken at Airflo Inc. a call about your compressor.He will get you the proper factory manual for your pump and they are by far the best source for parts for it.I have a similar 253 Type 30 and he was a great help. http://www.airfloinc.com/index.jsp

motofool33 · Aug 6, 2015

So got my check valve today, and got a new hose to replace the copper pipe. but finding the 3/16" inverted flare fittings and the 3/16" compression fitting and a hose to connect them is starting to turn into a pain. after 9 hydraulic hose and fittings stores(in houston) i still dont have anything but a way to cap off the 3/16 port on the check valve. where i grew up in washington hose and fitting stores had everything this is ridiculous.

do you guys just order this stuff online?

hogdaddy · Aug 7, 2015

Norcal said:
OH OH, this could be the beginning of another PVC airline thread.

LOL, the pvc conncts to the air fillter outside.

hogdaddy · Aug 7, 2015

motofool33 said:
hogdaddy can you post a better pic of the large port where the check valve is on your tank? what is the silver piece sticking out?

im getting ready to order parts for mine so it works as intended

im looking at these check valves:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INGERSOLL-R...139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41544be0d3

This unit has a place for PRV (pressure relief valve) 1/8" port My question is what pressure should this be 200psi?

and a place (1/4 NPT) for the unloader line to run back to the Pressure switch

The silver piece is a check valve.

motofool33 · Aug 7, 2015

So i replaced the tube from Compressor to tank, and installed a check valve. and after 11 trips to hose fitting stores i was able to get a fitting and tube to connect the check valve to the unloader valve on the pressure switch. and hooked it up after 3 cycles of tuning in the pressure switch to hit 175psi i had it adjusted. Went to fire up the sand blaster to realize that the mfg suggests 60psi pressure and i was feeding it 175psi. so got one more trip to the store to hookup the pressure regulator and decided to also replace the drain valve on bottom of tank. pics to come tomorrow when things are finished.

motofool33 · Aug 14, 2015

So after draining my tank a couple times tons of water comes out. So I've been looking at auto drain setups. Not many 240volt versions so do I just wire in one leg of the power off the pressure switch and then ground to use a 110/110volt drain?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

motofool33 · Aug 18, 2015

Check valve installed steel unloader line installed, new hose, new pressure switch set at 175psi. Added a regulator, new plumbing & drain valve on bottom. Then put on new anti vibration feet glues drying then I will remove the wood.

Now to install my moisture trap and hookup the refrigerated dryer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

theoldwizard1 · Aug 18, 2015

motofool33 said:
So after draining my tank a couple times tons of water comes out. So I've been looking at auto drain setups. Not many 240volt versions so do I just wire in one leg of the power off the pressure switch and then ground to use a 110/110volt drain?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

You can split the 240V IF

you have run a neutral line in addition to the ground line to the compressor (not likely)
AND the pressure switch is a DPST (likely)

motofool33 · Aug 30, 2015

So I got the antivibration feet on from zoro. And I added a regulator, water seperator and then put in a pneumatic operated auto drain. When pressure drops in tank it fires off so each compressor cycle it fires off. Great device. Only bad part is it was too tall for the height I had under the tank. Had to get some more pipe n fittings to raise it up

Next step is to get a couple more hoses and plumb in the air drier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

motofool33 · Sep 6, 2015

Well i got an order from MC mastercar coming to plumb in the air drier and also the new aftercooler:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEADJ2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

then adding this fan:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151800360844?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And due to the fact that fan makes 1500CFM ill be wiring in one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261503212435?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

and have to get another regulator for before the air drier as it is only supposed to take 125psi max not the 150psi coming from the current regulator.

Bob Glenn · Sep 7, 2015

The hose coming from you compressor out let !! It MUST be rated for a high temp other wise it will burn out in a very short time ! Either 3 feet of copper or Teflon lined hose will do the trick ! The copper will help with heat also !! Good luck !

pstnbly · Sep 7, 2015

The Cobbler said:
yup, it's missing the unloader to decompress the cylinder . also , IMO, the pipe from the compressor to the tank should be flexible

^This +1 That hard pipe is going to crack the jug it's attached to. It should at least be copper line with appropriate bends to allow for flex and expansion.

pstnbly · Sep 7, 2015

motofool33 said:
So I got the antivibration feet on from zoro. And I added a regulator, water seperator and then put in a pneumatic operated auto drain. When pressure drops in tank it fires off so each compressor cycle it fires off. Great device. Only bad part is it was too tall for the height I had under the tank. Had to get some more pipe n fittings to raise it up

Next step is to get a couple more hoses and plumb in the air drier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

That's the drain port not the port for the air dryer. You have created a moisture trap with those fittings. Air should be delivered to the dryer where you have your hoses connected. The regulator on the bottom of the tank will fail due to water hammer.

motofool33 · Sep 7, 2015

pstnbly said:
That's the drain port not the port for the air dryer. You have created a moisture trap with those fittings. Air should be delivered to the dryer where you have your hoses connected. The regulator on the bottom of the tank will fail due to water hammer.

not sure what your talking about, the air drier is not hooked up at all yet, i have some fittings and valves on order to plumb it in with a bypass valve setup. the air drier is going to be hooked up through the top 1/2NPT pipes. the plastic hose that is pointed up is the drain from the water seperator inside it. and the drain is terrible in that fact i need to drill a hose in the sheetmetal lower so it doesn't point up in the first place.

there is no regulator on bottom of tank its an pneumatic auto drain valve.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILKERSON-X...NPT-200-psi-/331333667492?hash=item4d25068aa4

motofool33 · Sep 7, 2015

Bob Glenn said:
The hose coming from you compressor out let !! It MUST be rated for a high temp other wise it will burn out in a very short time ! Either 3 feet of copper or Teflon lined hose will do the trick ! The copper will help with heat also !! Good luck !

the red hose will be replaced soon as my compression fittings get here for the aftercooler, it will be soft copper going into the aftercooler.

motofool33 · Sep 18, 2015

So I made some progress today, I was just going to weld on the aftercooler brackets and put it together. But I just didn't like looking at all that un painted metal exposed. And ****** welds from the previous owner.

So after I welded on the bracket, I decided to remove the electric motor and clean up the area and hit it with some black paint.

And after a quick paint.

Later when I can get the forklift near the compressor I'll unbolt the pump n paint the pump too bit not today!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

motofool33 · Sep 19, 2015

Waiting to get some hoses made next week.

Also temporary hooked up the air dryer. Man that thing is awesome had dry air for 4 hrs straight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

motofool33 · Oct 14, 2015

Finished the Aftercooler upgrade heres the fan running, pretty quiet for 1500cfm

https://goo.gl/photos/3ETSosgpnnFy1j5D7

New to me Compressor 5HP T30 oldschool pump

Well-known member

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

New member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member