Jim's Interim Shop of Horrors

Todd.Brock · Sep 30, 2015

Nice job. I bought a 70 pint Dehumidifier for my basement last fall. We bought a house that had a slightly musty basement from leaks. The boxes from the previous owner had mildew on them as well as There was silvery white powder on 3 joists. The bill was 450O bucks for the remidiation. Water was pouring into the sump pit from bad drainage, foundation cracks and some leaking pipes in basement. Fixes all that and humidity stays about 45-48% From the hepa filters to the double zipper wall bio doors it was pretty nuts. They sprayed the clear sealer on everything, walls, joists, etc. they were there for almost 8 days because of scrubbing and sanding by hand all the underside of the first floor, scrubbed the hvac trunk lines. It was alot of work for what seemed like a little bit of aspergillium. But tHe wife was happy. The air was cleaner on the after tests that's hospital or something ! He did say to run a dehumidifier or two, to keep it from coming back. Mine came with a pump. I was pulling 3 to 4 gallons out in a 24 hour period. I had a radon system installed as well and the vacuum was messing with the dehumidifier so I routed it to a floor drain with a 25 ft garden hose. Seems to work great. Been that way all summer. I was going to use a condensate pump but decided to try the hose first. Seems to be working fine !

jimgood · Sep 30, 2015

Todd.Brock said:
Nice job. I bought a 70 pint Dehumidifier for my basement last fall. We bought a house that had a slightly musty basement from leaks. The boxes from the previous owner had mildew on them as well as There was silvery white powder on 3 joists. The bill was 450O bucks for the remidiation. Water was pouring into the sump pit from bad drainage, foundation cracks and some leaking pipes in basement. Fixes all that and humidity stays about 45-48% From the hepa filters to the double zipper wall bio doors it was pretty nuts. They sprayed the clear sealer on everything, walls, joists, etc. they were there for almost 8 days because of scrubbing and sanding by hand all the underside of the first floor, scrubbed the hvac trunk lines. It was alot of work for what seemed like a little bit of aspergillium. But tHe wife was happy. The air was cleaner on the after tests that's hospital or something ! He did say to run a dehumidifier or two, to keep it from coming back. Mine came with a pump. I was pulling 3 to 4 gallons out in a 24 hour period. I had a radon system installed as well and the vacuum was messing with the dehumidifier so I routed it to a floor drain with a 25 ft garden hose. Seems to work great. Been that way all summer. I was going to use a condensate pump but decided to try the hose first. Seems to be working fine !

Wow! That sounds like it was worse than our situation. I'm emptying my 70 pint dehumidifier two or three times a day. It's got a pump but I haven't used it yet. Waiting for electrical to get done so I can mount the unit up where I can get the hose through the wall into the laundry room.

fergus · Sep 30, 2015

Jim,

Three words for your vision-impared welding adventures:

Welding helmet cheaters.

They work wonders. I have good vision and found them very beneficial.

jbmatth · Oct 1, 2015

jimgood said:
That's the crux of it!

I see you're a fellow Cobra fan. Got one?

Edit: never mind. I answered my own question by visiting your Hidey Hole thread! Nice car! What brand is it?

Wow, I missed this completely, I guess my subscription didn't work. It is a B&B Cobra replica if you've visited my thread you know all about it so I won't go into any more detail. Now I have to catch up on what you've been up to since I last looked into your thread.
JB

Edit:
Sounds like you've had some adventures in your place. Hopefully the mold is at bay and doesn't come back. As for the clean up you are doing a great job and will soon have electrical done so then it'll just be organizing things to your liking.

jimgood · Oct 1, 2015

fergus said:
Jim,

Three words for your vision-impared welding adventures:

Welding helmet cheaters.

They work wonders. I have good vision and found them very beneficial.

Thanks, I ordered one. I also think better lighting will help.

jbmatth said:
Wow, I missed this completely, I guess my subscription didn't work. It is a B&B Cobra replica if you've visited my thread you know all about it so I won't go into any more detail. Now I have to catch up on what you've been up to since I last looked into your thread.
JB

Edit:
Sounds like you've had some adventures in your place. Hopefully the mold is at bay and doesn't come back. As for the clean up you are doing a great job and will soon have electrical done so then it'll just be organizing things to your liking.

Nice, JB. I had a Factory Five for a couple of years and flogged the **** out of it on the track (the red one in my avatar).

jimgood · Oct 2, 2015

Electricians worked all day today. They still have a few lights to install yet. But I was able to get stuff moved back out to the walls again. So, let's do some progress pics!

Come on in out of the rain! I still have some clutter to contend with but I can't complain about space. Not when there are guys on here working out of shipping containers! So, this is what it looks like when you enter.

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The workbench on the left now has an outlet nearby instead of 10' away.

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Just past the workbench, the big drill press now has it's own outlet too! My God! It's going to be so nice to just go over there and turn it on without dragging an extension cord over to it.

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On the right, is the main work area. I had them add 4 more lights (one is not hooked up yet). The amount of light now is just insane. I can't believe the difference and there's still one to go! There were 3 baseboard heaters in the basement, only one of which we've ever turned on. I had them wire up this one under the peg board wall where it's fairly close to kitchen sink drain line and the plumbing lines feeding the kitchen and outside. The drain line has frozen a couple of times so this heater will be on a low setting in the winter to keep that from happening. They also added a receptacle on that wall.

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Along the north wall, we got receptacles every 5 feet, starting about 12 feet from the west wall. There is also a 220v receptacle for the welder about halfway down. We still have two more lights to install here. The lights in this back section are on a separate switch from the front.

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I've never shown this angle before but this is looking from north to south. Woodworking bench on the left, table saw then welding bench on the right. All on wheels so they can be moved out of the way when I need to bring in a car.

BTW, this was the first time I've been able to run the shop vac all over the shop with out dragging around an extension cord. That was sweet!

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Marcm157 · Oct 2, 2015

I totally enjoyed reading every post in this thread. The way you described every detail of your project made me feel as if I was right there.

jbmatth · Oct 3, 2015

That is great that you now have plenty of outlets and lights. I was very surprised when I installed the last 9 of mine just how much of a difference it made. Of course going from 2 lights to 4, 9, 18, 27, then finely the 36 I currently have makes it great for seeing in there, I just need to seal it up, insulate and add heat at some point. I've never raced my cobra, but have driven it like a mad man a few times.
JB

jimgood · Oct 3, 2015

Marcm157 said:
I totally enjoyed reading every post in this thread. The way you described every detail of your project made me feel as if I was right there.

Thanks. That's kind of you to say.

Mgbringo · Oct 3, 2015

Wow. Nice work on your shop. I have found out also that if you just take those cleaning projects one step at a time it is surprising how it gets completed.

I am very interested in your sewing machine. I grew up with my dad doing upholstery work. I also did some for him. I wished I would have kept his machine but didnt have room at the time.

I wish I was closer because I,would buy it from you for sure. I am in Mpls I womder how much it would cost to ship. How much does it weigh? 150 lbs, I assume ?

I will check miles from me to you also.

xtremek · Oct 3, 2015

Excuse me sir, are you sure I'm in the right thread? I'm asking because I can seeee..............FLOOR!!! :bounce:

It's looking nice. :bowdown:

HSpencer · Oct 3, 2015

Just a totally great shop in every way. Looks really comfortable to work in and very organized. Great job!

Best Regards
Herb

jimgood · Oct 3, 2015

Mgbringo said:
Wow. Nice work on your shop. I have found out also that if you just take those cleaning projects one step at a time it is surprising how it gets completed.

I am very interested in your sewing machine. I grew up with my dad doing upholstery work. I also did some for him. I wished I would have kept his machine but didnt have room at the time.

I wish I was closer because I,would buy it from you for sure. I am in Mpls I womder how much it would cost to ship. How much does it weigh? 150 lbs, I assume ?

I will check miles from me to you also.

Yeah, I don't know. Shipping something like this would probably require a crate. It's pretty top heavy too. 150 lbs sounds about right. When I move it, I lift the lighter end onto a furniture dolly then carry the other end and push it into place.

xtremek said:
Excuse me sir, are you sure I'm in the right thread? I'm asking because I can seeee..............FLOOR!!! It's looking nice.

It's hard to believe it myself. But, to be fair, the east wing is packed with all the stuff I moved to make room over on this side. But, one step at a time! At least now I have room to build stuff to store the other stuff.

HSpencer said:
Just a totally great shop in every way. Looks really comfortable to work in and very organized. Great job!

Best Regards
Herb

Thank you. I'm still working on the organized part but it's getting there. I think that will be an organic process. As I work through projects I'll get a better feel for how to best lay it all out.

I started another project today. It required the chop saw and table saw. It was so easy to move them into place and make the cuts. Not as good as having them in a fixed position and ready to go but still, having the floor space to do this is such a luxury. :rocker:

Anyway, the project is a sign for our farm (Cobbler Corner Farm). I'll post details later, though it's pretty simple; store-bought MDF lettering, pine boards, white painted background with black letters. I'll need a custom bracket to hang it from a maple tree out at the road. That will be a welding and metal shaping project.

While I was at Lowe's today, I picked up some other project materials.

Got a premade cabinet for the master bath. That was for the wife. Hung it over the toilet. Not really a shop project but being able to easily find and access my tools made hanging it a quick job. I wanted to build one but I haven't had time and she was out of space in the vanity.

Garage door weather strip. The stuff I got for the bottom of the door won't work though. The metal strip on the bottom of the door is not the right style to receive the rubber seal. I need to see if they carry the metal part too but that will have to wait until later in the week. The weather strips for the sides and top should work so I'm going to put those up tomorrow. This door is quite drafty. I adjusted the track to tighten it up but that can only do so much.

I also got some sealer for the cracks along the edges of the foundation. This will help reduce even more of the moisture intrusion. Between the Watertite on the concrete block and the dehumidifier, the air is so much drier. I can feel the difference.

jimgood · Oct 9, 2015

I'll have some update pics later but I just couldn't contain myself...

The electricians finished up yesterday afternoon. I can't believe how awesome it is to be in the shop now! I've got 5 lights over the main bay and I was working on the sign for our farm last night and early this morning. It was so great not to have to turn a work piece different directions to get light on a particular side. Shadows are minimal to non existent.

The east wing now has two florescents with wall switches at each end of the room instead of just two bare incandescent bulbs on pull strings. Still a lot of sorting and organizing to do on that side but all in good time.

One other really great thing that happened...back in 2006 I bought a race car (Factory Five Challenge Series Racer; red one in my avatar). I worked my way through DE events and got my NASA race license in Feb. 2008. I was only able to do 2 race weekends before I ran out of money and had to sell the car. So, I still had my helmet, race suit, flame retardant underwear and HANS all in a big duffle bag (about $2000 worth of gear). At some point, I lost track of that duffle bag. I had no idea where it was. I looked all over the house for it (so I thought) and it was no where to be found. I wrote it off thinking maybe I threw it out in a fit of rage as I was pretty broken up about not being able to race.

Well, yesterday, my wife was cleaning out a closet (yet another space that had accumulated too much ****) and lo and behold, there it was, on the floor of the closet, buried under a pile of stuff. Will wonders never cease?

I'll have to get everything recertified as it's now all over 7 years old but it was only used a couple times so it should be in great shape.

Today, I'm headed to HF to take advantage of the coupon deal on the 20-ton Shop Press and an impact wrench. I decided my old electric impact wrench need to be replaced when I tried to use to remove the lug nuts on my DD and they would budge. I was able to easily remove them with a breaker bar so they weren't more than 100 ft/lbs.

I hate to add another large-footprint tool, but I'm going to make good use of the shop press bending foot plates for the roll cage in my race car project.

jbmatth · Oct 10, 2015

I'm sorry you had to sell the cobra, I know they are a blast and don't ever want to have to sell mine. I'm sure the new race car will be lots of fun and you'll have a good time building it in the new reorganized space with plenty of light and power points.
JB

jimgood · Oct 11, 2015

jbmatth said:
I'm sorry you had to sell the cobra, I know they are a blast and don't ever want to have to sell mine. I'm sure the new race car will be lots of fun and you'll have a good time building it in the new reorganized space with plenty of light and power points.
JB

Yeah, that was a seriously sad day in my life. I know it's just a thing but it represented a life long dream to drive race cars. I've loved Cobras ever since I learned about them as a kid.

Onward...

I got the shop back in working order after the electricians left. Most of my spare time has been taken up making a sign for our farm. I've been promising my wife I'd do this for years but never got around to it. But she has been hosting leadership workshops here for the last couple of years and it's kind of important to have an easy way to identify the place.

A few weeks ago she got the some letters from Michael's craft store. They're MDF and come painted black but I had my doubts that they would be weather resistant. Last week I got serious about making the sign so on my last trip to Lowe's I picked up a quart of black and a gallon of white exterior paint. I also picked up the straightest 1 x 8 I could find.

At home, I laid out the letters on the 1 x 8 to determine the final dimensions I wanted. I cut the lengths for each word in the sign (Cobbler Corner Farm) then cut them all down to 6" wide on the table saw.

I painted the boards with three coats of the white on each side and the edges. The paint required 4 hours between recoats so I painted them over a couple of days. I started painting the letters with the smallest paint brush I had (2 1/2") but that was a debacle. So I waited until we went to Michael's again and picked up a small artists brush about 1/2" wide with bristles about 3/4" long. It worked perfect. I wanted to be sure to seal the letters up good since they're MDF. We'll see how this holds up in the weather.

I didn't really do any process pics since it's all pretty basic stuff. I wanted the sign in three sections connected by chain. I bought stainless steel eye screws and chain couplings. After everything was painted I nailed the letters to the boards with my air nailer. I hadn't used it in a long time. It broke on about the 8th letter. Not sure what it's called but the thing that hammers the nail split. Thank God it came with a spare. I thought I was screwed. So here are the three pieces ready to hang.

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Next up, I needed something from which to hang the sign. I was going to try to find some decorative metalwork at an antique store but I didn't have time for that so I grabbed an assortment of horseshoes I still have from my farrier days and welded up this arrangement.

Back side:
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Front side:
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I welded these to a piece of 1" square tube and painted it black:
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I added some hardware to the square tube to hang the sign. The tube itself was going to be bolted to a split tree at the head of our driveway. I used one 3/8" x 5" lag bolt on each end and then added a couple of 1/2" thick nylon spacers to use as standoffs so that the tube and sign wouldn't be directly against the tree.

Then came a problem. I needed to drill holes in the tree for the lag bolts but I swore off cordless drills long ago so I don't have one anymore. How to power my drill out there? :headscrat

I was determined to finish this project this morning so I decided on a plan. Load the generator into the truck and use that! Thank God for my engine hoist! It has yet to hoist an engine! Well, I guess this counts.

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I loaded everything else I needed into the truck and backed up to the head of the driveway. I fired up the generator and I had power. I positioned the tube and drilled the holes up fairly high to deter vandals (some neighbors have had signs stolen or vandalized). Bolted it up then attached the sign pieces. I used thread locker on the chain couplings to prevent the nuts from backing off. And that's it. She's up! I think I have 10 -12 hours in this total.

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jimgood · Oct 13, 2015

Forgot to post my newest "big" acquisition...I got the HF 20-ton shop press with a coupon for $155. Can wait to put this to use on foot plates for the roll cage for the race car project.

I added casters to it since it's not really a tool that needs to withstand lateral force. I may have to reinforce the angle at the bottom as I can see some deflection having them raised on casters.

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wbrian63 · Oct 30, 2015

I like the sign - and the embellishment on top. Might suggest a couple of things:

1) I've been building cabinets forever (15+ years) and even if you had those MDF letters bronzed, they'll not last through a wet winter without swelling. I could be wrong, but down here in the deep south, MDF swells if you just look at it with an icy stare. A ring from the condensation of a soda can will raise a ring in just a few hours. If budget $ allow, someone with a water jet or plasma cutter table should be able to spit out those same letters, same style in 1/4" plate for reasonable money.

2) Other thing - I'd modify the way you hung the sign. In a strong wind, even as big as those trees are, the trunks are going to move, and that's going to cause a problem with your mounting. I'd leave one side as it is and cobble together a saddle for the other side that can be bolted to the tree and allow the end of the sign frame to rest in the saddle rather than being rigidly fixed to the tree. Think about a piece of square tube maybe 1" long, large enough to slide over the existing piece, with a piece of angle iron welded to the top. Drill your mounting hole through the tab of the angle iron and lag it to the tree with the same nylon standoff method you wisely used to mount the sign originally.

Of course, I could be completely wrong on both counts. If so, please ignore comments 1 and 2 and continue with below:

Great read and enjoyable thread. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on your progress.

jimgood · Oct 30, 2015

wbrian63 said:
I like the sign - and the embellishment on top. Might suggest a couple of things:

1) I've been building cabinets forever (15+ years) and even if you had those MDF letters bronzed, they'll not last through a wet winter without swelling. I could be wrong, but down here in the deep south, MDF swells if you just look at it with an icy stare. A ring from the condensation of a soda can will raise a ring in just a few hours. If budget $ allow, someone with a water jet or plasma cutter table should be able to spit out those same letters, same style in 1/4" plate for reasonable money.

2) Other thing - I'd modify the way you hung the sign. In a strong wind, even as big as those trees are, the trunks are going to move, and that's going to cause a problem with your mounting. I'd leave one side as it is and cobble together a saddle for the other side that can be bolted to the tree and allow the end of the sign frame to rest in the saddle rather than being rigidly fixed to the tree. Think about a piece of square tube maybe 1" long, large enough to slide over the existing piece, with a piece of angle iron welded to the top. Drill your mounting hole through the tab of the angle iron and lag it to the tree with the same nylon standoff method you wisely used to mount the sign originally.

Of course, I could be completely wrong on both counts. If so, please ignore comments 1 and 2 and continue with below:

Great read and enjoyable thread. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on your progress.

Thanks for your input. I am concerned about the letters and I am fully expecting to have to replace them sooner rather than later. But my wife went to the trouble of buying them without asking so...

As for the mounting, I did consider something to that effect. I may just hog out the hole in the square tube and allow it to move. I don't think it will move much at that point on the tree but I should probably allow for it.

Bib Overalls · Oct 30, 2015

Harbor Freight sells two 20 ton presses; one that comes in two boxes (better) and one that comes in three boxes (not so good). Fortunately, you have the good one. I'm with you on the casters. The jack handle needs a storage place. Two machine screws straight up through the bottom lip of the top beam works for me.

jimgood · Nov 4, 2015

Bib Overalls said:
Harbor Freight sells two 20 ton presses; one that comes in two boxes (better) and one that comes in three boxes (not so good). Fortunately, you have the good one. I'm with you on the casters. The jack handle needs a storage place. Two machine screws straight up through the bottom lip of the top beam works for me.

Thanks. I'll do you one better. I just stuck a magnet on the top and the handle rests between the magnet and the back of the top cross bar. See pics.

jimgood · Nov 4, 2015

I haven't really made any new progress on the shop. I've been too busy with maintenance tasks. Although I did throw together a new top for my B&D Workmate workbench. I've had some wood that I saved when we tore down our old barn. I'm not really sure of the species but it resembles oak. This piece was about 2" x 12" x 6'. I cut it into two pieces 30" long by about 6 or 8" wide. I don't recall. I didn't even measure the width. I pressure washed the board then hand planed the surfaces as they were in pretty rough shape.

I made two mistakes with the back piece. The distance between the holes was supposed to be 25". I fucked up with a carpenter's square and measured to the 25" mark but from the wrong side. But I measured twice, by God!! Just got it wrong both times. :lol_hitti

The second mistake was drilling the inner hole all the way through. Only needed it 1/2" deep. I remembered that with the second set of (correctly spaced) holes.

Anyway, here's the result. I plan to give this wood an oil finish. It may even be walnut but I have no clue.

Edit: I forgot to mention. This wood is so dry that it weighs next to nothing. The top is only slightly heavier than it was originally.

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Bib Overalls · Nov 4, 2015

jimgood said:
Thanks. I'll do you one better. I just stuck a magnet on the top and the handle rests between the magnet and the back of the top cross bar. See pics.

I had a different idea.

Hydraulic Press 1 by Formerly JimboT, on Flickr

Hydraulic Press 2 by Formerly JimboT, on Flickr

jimgood · Nov 5, 2015

Bib Overalls said:
I had a different idea.

Yours is definitely more secure.

jimgood · Nov 16, 2015

These past few weeks have seen little progress in organizing the shop further. Between vacation, track weekend and helping my wife prep for leadership workshops, my time has been limited.

Weeks ago, on a trip to Harbor Freight, I picked up 5 boxes of these stacking bins: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-poly-bins-and-rails-41949.html

They have the lip on the back so they can be hung from these, of which I ordered 6 (for now):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KABBG4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This weekend I finally got some time to start on a rack that will hold all of the above. It's pretty basic. Made from 2" x 2" x 3/16" tube so it's pretty heavy. The base is an "I" laying flat and will have casters. It has three vertical posts on top of the beam of the "I". The Edsal wall panels will mount to the vertical posts, two wide and three high, so that will take up one side of the rack. This gives me the option to mount six more on the back side.

The overall width of the rack is 38", even though the wall panels are only 18" wide each (36" a pair). This is due to my piss-poor math skills once again where, when trying to decide on the length of the beam of the "I", I subtracted the width of the two cross pieces (2" each, so 4") from 36" and got 34". I didn't realize my mistake until it was welded together and I was trying to space the vertical posts. :wtf:

: Whatever. Close enough. Seems like I have to have at least one of these ****-ups on every project.

Anyway, it came together well enough. I have to say, welding 3/16" steel is SO much easier than .090". I even made a few really pretty ones! Oh, AND, I welded using 110 v and .030" wire. OH MY GOD!!! So, I'm sure the whole thing will fall apart like a house of cards as soon as I fill the first bin with 1/4" nuts.

I'll post up picks later as I started this post before I realized that I don't have my cable to get the pics off my camera.

For now, this will have to do:
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jimgood · Nov 16, 2015

Here's a picture of the base for the bin rack I'm building. No, the trash can is not part of the base. :lol_hitti

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Here's one of the better welds.

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And, just for giggles, while I was welding the uprights onto the base, I started smelling smoke that definitely did not smell like normal welding fumes. I thought it odd but I kept going. Then my wrist started getting warm but I kept going. Then my wrist started getting HOT so I stopped welding, flipped up my helmet and found that my sleeve was on fire!

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jbmatth · Nov 17, 2015

That will be one very stout storage rack, and that weld does look pretty. As far as quality I have no clue, so lets say it is pretty so it must be strong.

I think anyone who has done much welding has at least at one time caught themselves or something else on fire.
JB

jimgood · Nov 17, 2015

Stout for sure. I'm a little concerned that it's going to be tippy at just over 60" tall. But I'll try to keep the heavier stuff at the bottom.

jbmatth · Nov 18, 2015

I wouldn't think it would be too tippy as long as you are mindful of pushing it along the long axis and not side to side without a firm grip. Even then it should be fine on smooth surfaces.
JB

jimgood · Nov 20, 2015

Holy ****! This thing is heavy. I think it's the heaviest thing I've built so far and the first thing I've built from 2" x 2" x 3/16" tube.

When I left off last week, I had finished welding it. I was running out of time to drill holes for the casters so I decided to prime it and touch up any of the inevitable scuffs from drilling and tapping later. I had already prepped the entire surface of every tube before welding and I knew I wasn't going to get back to this until today. It's covered in 3 light coats of self-etching primer and you can see at the top where I've laid it down and scuffed off the paint there. No biggie. It will get worse I'm sure.

Today I drilled all the holes for the casters and mounted them. I used 2" angle in the inside of the legs to mount the inside of the casters. Amazingly, I had just enough of that angle to do the job.

Since the outer bolts are in the tubes, one of the bolts is near the end of the tube and the other is about 4" down inside the tube. So those holes got tapped so I didn't have to try to fish a nut down there for the bolt. I accidentally drilled one of those to the bolt size so I couldn't tap it. Instead I just drilled it bigger and wedged a nut in there then welded it.

I think it came out great. 1 outside tube did deflect a tad to the inside but it's not bad enough to worry about. They're aligned perfectly in the plane where the panels will mount and that's the most important thing. Having that marble slab on top of my workbench made a world of difference in keeping things aligned while welding.

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I layed it down so I could position the panels and center punch all the holes. I'm doing 4 screws on each side of each panel so 48 holes to drill and tap. I have to make a run to Tractor Supply to see if they have enough cap head screws. I'll also pick up some paint. I'm going to roll the finish as it's getting too cool out to spray paint and I don't want to spray inside the workshop, under my house.

Here are the panels layed out.

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jimgood · Nov 22, 2015

Two coats of Ford tractor blue; one yesterday and one this morning. I brush painted it. It's certainly not flawless but it's not horrible either. The paint flowed out really nice. It's still drying so I can't really do the final assembly until tomorrow or Monday. I don't have the screws yet anyway. I ordered them from McMaster on Friday so there's a chance they'll get here today but I'm not holding my breath.

I also ordered a 2" thick foam sheet that I'm going to use to fill in the space between the posts and back up the Edsal panels. This will keep it from rattling when it's moved. That won't be here until next weekend.

As I said, I only have enough panels for one side at the moment. I'm considering clamp storage on the opposite side but haven't decided yet. I don't have that many clamps right now so it can wait. Need to meditate on it a while.

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jimgood · Nov 23, 2015

Oh, it's soooo sweet!

Back side...

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And...TA DA!

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Edsal LP1819 18" x 19" Wall Panel (if I had to do it over I'd get the 36" x 19" panels as that would have been cheaper for the same overall size). $101
80 plastic bins - $44 on sale (HF Item #41949)
20' of 2" sq tube, 3/16" wall - $100 (? I don't remember)
4" casters - $34
Paint - Ford Tractor Blue - $13 qt (used about 8 oz out of 32)

$292 - all in. That's pretty steep but I got a configuration that I wanted and for another $11 bucks I could put 20 more bins on this side. If I decide to cover the other side, I could do the panels and 5 boxes of the bins for about $160. Plus, there's the satisfaction of building it myself. What's that worth? :dunno:

There wasn't anything commercially available that I could find like this so I think I did okay.

I have this week off from work. Doing my favorite thing...staycation! I'll be filling up those bins with hardware. Well, at least I'll put something in them. I have a bunch of miscellaneous hardware I need to organize.

I also painted the spots that the mold crew missed on the back wall and the front wall.

View media item 55004

jimgood · Nov 26, 2015

I already have most of the 80 bins filled and I haven't even opened the big Rubbermaid bin that I threw all of my assorted hardware into. Soooo, I ordered 3 more of the 36" x 19" Edsal panels for the back side. I'm still trying to decide if I want to cheap out on the same HF bins or get some other sizes.

Vieux · Nov 26, 2015

I love your workshop! Subscribe.

ambenz · Nov 26, 2015

Read your thread from the start...it's interesting!
I have to subscribe just to find out if you ever find a way to get rid of that damn pole!!

jimgood · Nov 27, 2015

Thanks, guys!

Yeah, the pole...I'm working around it for now. I wonder if I put a bunch of bracing in the "I" beam if it would stiffen it enough to compensate for the loss of that damn thing.

It's workable for now so way down on the priority list.

jbmatth · Nov 30, 2015

I can't remember if I posted on that pole or not but here goes. Do you want to get rid of it altogether, or would you be okay with moving it to one side and adding another on the other side? If you have two poles spaced toward either wall as long as you keep the span the same from pole to pole or pole to wall you will be fine doing it that way. If you want to remove it altogether you will need to up-size your beam which could get tricky depending on how your floor is built above. Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions and I'll even be able to run some numbers to give you an estimated beam size. However, your best bet would be to either call in an engineer or architect in the area that is familiar with the codes. I love that bin rack, it turned out great.
JB

jimgood · Nov 30, 2015

Thanks, JB. The floor above is completely open. The roof trusses run perpendicular to the beam so none of the walls on the main floor of the house (above the beam) are actually load bearing. The heaviest thing above that beam is the living room furniture.

The second post along the beam from left to right is indicated by the yellow circle in the pic below. My model is not perfectly accurate but it's close. From the left wall to that second post is 18' to 20' so it's probably about 10' between the first and second post.

To answer your questions, I'd rather get rid of it altogether. If I move it, then it'll just interfere with something else.

jbmatth · Dec 1, 2015

After looking back at all of your photos I couldn't find any great pictures of just the beam but have a pretty good idea. In the attached picture the existing beam is supported by the yellow circle on the right and the red circle on the left. I'd propose adding a second beam of the same size in front or behind the existing beam depending on how the joints for your floor joists fall, shown with thin yellow lines. Then adding support posts at the walls on the new beam, shown with thick light blue lines, as you probably don't want to tear into the block wall. Make sure the floor plate on the new post is substantial around 12" square and 1/2" thick with a good radius around the corners to decrease stress points. Jack up the new beam until it is level with the old one, then weld the two beams together with some 3" on 3" off 1/4" fillet style stitch welds to tie them together much better. Then simply remove your old support post. If you don't want to hire someone to run the numbers for you in your area then my philosphy is overkill it and add another new beam on the opposite side so you will have 3 beams in that area total. I have to throw out the disclaimer that although I am an engineer I'm not licensed in your state or any other state for that matter

and if you do this and your house falls in I'm just some hack on the computer that didn't think you would take me seriously. LOL

jimgood · Dec 1, 2015

Thanks, JB. Your disclaimer is acknowledged and I will proceed at my own peril!

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