Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
ProGun3400
Well-known member
Awesome! Hell of a shop.
I DECIDED TO PUT IN YET ANOTHER WINDOW…
Rather than climb up on a ladder to service the crane hoist (remember the scaffold goes away at some point in time), I installed a matching window just below the others. Standing on the stairway, I can reach comfortably out the window and work on the hoist if needed. I did notice there is a potential window breakage issue if the crane swings violently and hits the wall so I will add some kind of bar to guard against it. This wall will also get white vinyl siding just like the front wall. There will be an 18” high stripe of checkered flag below the vinyl and then aluminum tile board down to the floor to match the rest of the shop. There will be a hidden pocket built in this wall (below the clock) to store 4x8 sheets of plywood – more to come on that later.
I also made some progress with the drywall inside the office. The “nook” is nearly finished. I had to button up all the wiring before closing up the wall. In the picture, you can see the in-wall stereo temporarily mounted on the left side. Between the stereo and the window, there is a plastic access panel in the 45 degree corner (propped up with a short 2x6 in the pic). It gives access to the crane mount bolts and an electrical junction box back there. I can even reach the back of the stereo, if needed.
Below the nook are the recesses for the file cabinets. It was not fun climbing inside the bottom one (about 3 feet deep) to install the insulation or screw in the drywall, but that is behind me now. All I need to do now is install the door and I can turn on the A/C while I work. Timing is good because it’s starting to warm up outside (temps in the 80’s).
Rather than climb up on a ladder to service the crane hoist (remember the scaffold goes away at some point in time), I installed a matching window just below the others. Standing on the stairway, I can reach comfortably out the window and work on the hoist if needed. I did notice there is a potential window breakage issue if the crane swings violently and hits the wall so I will add some kind of bar to guard against it. This wall will also get white vinyl siding just like the front wall. There will be an 18” high stripe of checkered flag below the vinyl and then aluminum tile board down to the floor to match the rest of the shop. There will be a hidden pocket built in this wall (below the clock) to store 4x8 sheets of plywood – more to come on that later.
I also made some progress with the drywall inside the office. The “nook” is nearly finished. I had to button up all the wiring before closing up the wall. In the picture, you can see the in-wall stereo temporarily mounted on the left side. Between the stereo and the window, there is a plastic access panel in the 45 degree corner (propped up with a short 2x6 in the pic). It gives access to the crane mount bolts and an electrical junction box back there. I can even reach the back of the stereo, if needed.
Below the nook are the recesses for the file cabinets. It was not fun climbing inside the bottom one (about 3 feet deep) to install the insulation or screw in the drywall, but that is behind me now. All I need to do now is install the door and I can turn on the A/C while I work. Timing is good because it’s starting to warm up outside (temps in the 80’s).
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talon
Well-known member
As usual, looks awesome!
Thanks guys (or gals). I appreciate the comments and will keep the updates coming. Hopefully, the typical "house" type construction stuff (framing, drywall, etc.) will be over soon and I can get back to more "workshop" related projects (additional hose/cord reels, roll-around workbench, etc.) that I have planned.
marty_p
Well-known member
Who needs a house??? Awesome place there, shopnut!
THE LAST CEILING PANEL IS HUNG…
One more wall to go. As the picture shows, I finished the ceiling and the far wall at the top of the stairs. The recess in this far wall is for a lighted sign which will serve as a “night light” for the stairway. Normal switched lighting will come from two recessed light fixtures and you can see their cutouts in the ceiling.
I also spent a few hours leveling out the sliding doors on the office attic storage and building a skirt to hide the metal track (sorry-no pic).
I STARTED BUILDING THE PLYWOOD STORAGE SLOT…
To the right of the sink nook under the stairs, I will have a 5” wide pocket to store those cumbersome 4x8 sheets of plywood/paneling in the outside wall of the stairway. My jacks and stands will store just below this pocket. In the picture, you will notice a trough being formed by 2x6’s (about 2 feet off the ground) and this is where the 4’ edge of the plywood will slide into. Space underneath the lower end of the stairs will store my 5 ton floor jack, motorcycle jack, and a pull out drawer for 4 jack stands. On the outside face of the plywood storage area (about where the top of the jack handle is), I will mount a dry-erase board for sketching up things and jotting down notes.
One more wall to go. As the picture shows, I finished the ceiling and the far wall at the top of the stairs. The recess in this far wall is for a lighted sign which will serve as a “night light” for the stairway. Normal switched lighting will come from two recessed light fixtures and you can see their cutouts in the ceiling.
I also spent a few hours leveling out the sliding doors on the office attic storage and building a skirt to hide the metal track (sorry-no pic).
I STARTED BUILDING THE PLYWOOD STORAGE SLOT…
To the right of the sink nook under the stairs, I will have a 5” wide pocket to store those cumbersome 4x8 sheets of plywood/paneling in the outside wall of the stairway. My jacks and stands will store just below this pocket. In the picture, you will notice a trough being formed by 2x6’s (about 2 feet off the ground) and this is where the 4’ edge of the plywood will slide into. Space underneath the lower end of the stairs will store my 5 ton floor jack, motorcycle jack, and a pull out drawer for 4 jack stands. On the outside face of the plywood storage area (about where the top of the jack handle is), I will mount a dry-erase board for sketching up things and jotting down notes.
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ALL THE DRYWALL IS HUNG IN THE STAIRWAY…
I also finished up a section in the attic and some pieces inside the office around door. I ordered some special stainless steel grab rails that will serve as handrails along the steps. I considered the standard wooden type but couldn’t figure out how to do the vertical section at the top where the stairs makes the 90 degree turn. I think the tubular type I’m putting in will have a really cool look and they weren’t terribly priced at $150. Considering they don’t need any prep (painting/staining), and will last forever without any maintenance, I think it was the right choice for me. And it should match nicely with the aluminum diamond-plate treads I plan to install on the steps.
MORE WORK ON THE PLYWOOD BIN…
Hopefully the following pictures will explain the plywood storage slot. Sorry – the pictures would have been better if I moved the scaffold, but I was just too tired. I framed in the rest of the bin this weekend and installed the aluminum tileboard on the back surface. Eventually, the outside will get it too, along with the black trim.
The following pictures show a couple sheets of drywall slid into the slot about 3/4 of the way. The overhanging 2x6 at the top of the bin actually helped to “contain” the top edge of the sheets before sliding them in. It keeps it from flipping over on you once you lift it up 2 feet. I made the bin 2 inches taller than the standard sheet size (98”) and that seems about right.
I also finished up a section in the attic and some pieces inside the office around door. I ordered some special stainless steel grab rails that will serve as handrails along the steps. I considered the standard wooden type but couldn’t figure out how to do the vertical section at the top where the stairs makes the 90 degree turn. I think the tubular type I’m putting in will have a really cool look and they weren’t terribly priced at $150. Considering they don’t need any prep (painting/staining), and will last forever without any maintenance, I think it was the right choice for me. And it should match nicely with the aluminum diamond-plate treads I plan to install on the steps.
MORE WORK ON THE PLYWOOD BIN…
Hopefully the following pictures will explain the plywood storage slot. Sorry – the pictures would have been better if I moved the scaffold, but I was just too tired. I framed in the rest of the bin this weekend and installed the aluminum tileboard on the back surface. Eventually, the outside will get it too, along with the black trim.
The following pictures show a couple sheets of drywall slid into the slot about 3/4 of the way. The overhanging 2x6 at the top of the bin actually helped to “contain” the top edge of the sheets before sliding them in. It keeps it from flipping over on you once you lift it up 2 feet. I made the bin 2 inches taller than the standard sheet size (98”) and that seems about right.
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e-tek
Well-known member
Good to see you're still at it and posting! You've certainly got an engineers mind and a millworkers hand. The adds look great.
Have you had a chance to work on the cars at all - or is the actual shop still taking all your time? Guess if you just like figuring and buiding it doesn't much matter does it?
What does the wife do when you're working on/in the shop?
Keep up the postings!
Have you had a chance to work on the cars at all - or is the actual shop still taking all your time? Guess if you just like figuring and buiding it doesn't much matter does it?
What does the wife do when you're working on/in the shop?
Keep up the postings!
AFTER SITTING AROUND FOR MONTHS – THE OFFICE DOOR IS INSTALLED…
Last week I finished up the wall around the doorway so it was time to install the door. Because of the odd framework in this office caused by the crane structure, I decided to purchase this pre-hung door before I started the framing job so there would be no surprises. I cut the threshold completely off and allowed 1/2” height for the floor laminate to run underneath. After installing the latch/deadbolt set, I will remove the door from its hinges and put it somewhere safe until the walls are finished.
For some reason, I had put off the final framing job at the top of the stairs until now. I’m getting ready to order some stair tread covers and thought I better finish it up so I could get accurate measurements. There will be removable panels to allow access to dryer and bath exhaust fan ductwork under the floor and apartment electrical wiring in the wall.
I also finished a bunch of other small projects including hanging drywall on the window jambs, in the display case, knee recess under bay, and for an access panel in the attic for crane cable adjustment.
There’s also a removable panel in the office floor for apartment wiring access and I framed things up for that and now don’t have a potential 14” deep “tiger trap” to fall in anymore. I had a little mishap while doing this however. The electrician failed to install one of those little metal plates to protect wiring near the wall’s surface and I drove a 3” screw right into the garbage disposal and the dining room circuit wires. The breakers did trip and when I removed the screw, I was able to reset them. I’m a bit worried about it however and plan to investigate it further to see if wiring/insulation has been compromised. I fear it has and access to these wires will be difficult. I guess there has to be a few setbacks on a project like this.
Last week I finished up the wall around the doorway so it was time to install the door. Because of the odd framework in this office caused by the crane structure, I decided to purchase this pre-hung door before I started the framing job so there would be no surprises. I cut the threshold completely off and allowed 1/2” height for the floor laminate to run underneath. After installing the latch/deadbolt set, I will remove the door from its hinges and put it somewhere safe until the walls are finished.
For some reason, I had put off the final framing job at the top of the stairs until now. I’m getting ready to order some stair tread covers and thought I better finish it up so I could get accurate measurements. There will be removable panels to allow access to dryer and bath exhaust fan ductwork under the floor and apartment electrical wiring in the wall.
I also finished a bunch of other small projects including hanging drywall on the window jambs, in the display case, knee recess under bay, and for an access panel in the attic for crane cable adjustment.
There’s also a removable panel in the office floor for apartment wiring access and I framed things up for that and now don’t have a potential 14” deep “tiger trap” to fall in anymore. I had a little mishap while doing this however. The electrician failed to install one of those little metal plates to protect wiring near the wall’s surface and I drove a 3” screw right into the garbage disposal and the dining room circuit wires. The breakers did trip and when I removed the screw, I was able to reset them. I’m a bit worried about it however and plan to investigate it further to see if wiring/insulation has been compromised. I fear it has and access to these wires will be difficult. I guess there has to be a few setbacks on a project like this.
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Thanks e-tek. I have been working my **** off, although by seeing the slow progress in the posts, it probably seems like its taking forever.
Nope - no time for the cars yet. The Corvette is in great shape but the old Chevelle needs EVERYTHING to be in the condition I want it someday. It still runs pretty good though and it didn't miss a beat on a 1300 mile trip a couple years ago.
I've been trying very hard not to touch the old cars or bikes until the shop is basically finished. It will probably be another year or two before I'm at that point. When I'm finished with this upstairs office project, I do plan to take a little break from it and tinker with the toys a bit, but just little stuff. I know if I tear too heavily into something though, there will be parts everywhere and the car will be completely stripped down, with a multi-year project in front of me. I want to have all the shop systems in place to make the job a true joy.
The wife doesn't enjoy tinkering as much as I do, but totally understands my need to do so and knows its what makes me - me (famous last words before a nasty divorce
). She actually calls it "work" 
and says she does enough of that at work. We work together so we still see plenty of each other even though I've been gone two days nearly every week for the last year. She has her guitar buddies together quite often for jam sessions so she barely misses me. She always pitches in, however, when I need that extra hand. Honestly, I couldn't ask more.nkachur
Well-known member
You have an excellent build. I am really going to have to remember the plywood rack when it comes time to build my dream shop.
Cheers,
Nathan
Cheers,
Nathan
It appears H-F is now selling these same cabinets (except with silver galvanized doors/drawers). Search on p/n 65325, 65072, and 65073. I looked at the instruction manuals and the parts/construction method look identical. Stanley's version was actually imported from ZAG of Israel so maybe H-F is hooked up with them now. Prices are reasonable. Not sure if the local stores are carrying them, however.
I would recommend buying one first to check the quality before buying a garage full, in case they're ZAG knock-offs.
MORE REELS BY THE CRANE POST…
I spent a little time installing the air hose and cord reels that mount near the crane post. Since these are closest to what I believe will be my main work area someday, they will probably see a lot of action. Since they will exit through the vinyl wall material, I will need to build a fairlead plate to allow them to roll out easily. Hose reel brand is Reelcraft and power cords are Craftsman. Reelcraft products are excellent. Even though the Craftsman reels are their “Professional” version, they’re not the greatest, but the price was right so I’m giving them a try. I picked most of these up for half price, about $20 each. Some of them have been in place now for 3 years and working fine. One of them sometimes doesn’t latch so I might have to open it up and take a closer look.
FOLLOWUP TO THE ELECTRICAL MISHAP…
When I investigated the wiring in question, my suspicions were confirmed. The screw had nicked two hot wires and total severed (through arcing) a ground wire. So even though the circuits seemed to work fine after turning them back on, one was missing its safety ground. The repairs took about 3 hours, but now there’s no reason to worry about it.
I spent a little time installing the air hose and cord reels that mount near the crane post. Since these are closest to what I believe will be my main work area someday, they will probably see a lot of action. Since they will exit through the vinyl wall material, I will need to build a fairlead plate to allow them to roll out easily. Hose reel brand is Reelcraft and power cords are Craftsman. Reelcraft products are excellent. Even though the Craftsman reels are their “Professional” version, they’re not the greatest, but the price was right so I’m giving them a try. I picked most of these up for half price, about $20 each. Some of them have been in place now for 3 years and working fine. One of them sometimes doesn’t latch so I might have to open it up and take a closer look.
FOLLOWUP TO THE ELECTRICAL MISHAP…
When I investigated the wiring in question, my suspicions were confirmed. The screw had nicked two hot wires and total severed (through arcing) a ground wire. So even though the circuits seemed to work fine after turning them back on, one was missing its safety ground. The repairs took about 3 hours, but now there’s no reason to worry about it.
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MOTHER NATURE CAN BE CRUEL SOMETIMES…
I had a little surprise waiting for me this trip to the shop. One of the Hickory trees gave up the ghost and fell towards the building in a wind storm. It must have blown pretty hard since there was Spanish moss on the ground everywhere, like after a hurricane. Luckily, damage was just superficial and a couple pieces of sheet metal trim will have it looking like new again. I guess it could have been a lot worse. Since the chainsaw was out, I cut down another small dead tree that was blocking the view of the lake.
THE MUD JOB BEGINS…
With all the supplies and tools on hand, I began the taping job. I can tell this is not going to be a quick job, since drying time is required between coats. I was surprised how much joint compound it really takes to fill the joints and finish the corners and I’m wondering if one 5gal pail is enough to do the office, stairway, and attic.
I’m learning as I go, but it seems the best order is to tape and build up all the edge **** joints first to get the walls perfectly flat. Once **** joints are dry, the inside and outside corners can be started. I mention this because I was having trouble trying to do one entire wall at a time - dragging a knife across a wet joint running perpendicular to it simply does not work (like the joint above the window in the picture). In fact, it might even be better to tape all the **** joints before attaching the outside corner trim bead – too late for that now.
I wasn’t able to devote much time to it this weekend because of the lumberjack duties, but should get much more done next weekend.
I had a little surprise waiting for me this trip to the shop. One of the Hickory trees gave up the ghost and fell towards the building in a wind storm. It must have blown pretty hard since there was Spanish moss on the ground everywhere, like after a hurricane. Luckily, damage was just superficial and a couple pieces of sheet metal trim will have it looking like new again. I guess it could have been a lot worse. Since the chainsaw was out, I cut down another small dead tree that was blocking the view of the lake.
THE MUD JOB BEGINS…
With all the supplies and tools on hand, I began the taping job. I can tell this is not going to be a quick job, since drying time is required between coats. I was surprised how much joint compound it really takes to fill the joints and finish the corners and I’m wondering if one 5gal pail is enough to do the office, stairway, and attic.
I’m learning as I go, but it seems the best order is to tape and build up all the edge **** joints first to get the walls perfectly flat. Once **** joints are dry, the inside and outside corners can be started. I mention this because I was having trouble trying to do one entire wall at a time - dragging a knife across a wet joint running perpendicular to it simply does not work (like the joint above the window in the picture). In fact, it might even be better to tape all the **** joints before attaching the outside corner trim bead – too late for that now.
I wasn’t able to devote much time to it this weekend because of the lumberjack duties, but should get much more done next weekend.
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
Looks like you got more than enuff trees ! ...I gald your doing that mud job...thats one thing I do not like to do !
A QUICK TEST FIT ON THE HANDRAILS…
My stairway handrails arrived and I decided to get all the mount holes drilled before I finished the drywall. Now I just have to remember not to “patch” the holes! I had the locations marked on the bare drywall already when I was trying to figure out what lengths to buy, so it was easy. They are stainless steel with a “shot-peened” grip surface. I think it looks much better than the old wooden handrail, plus it allowed me to do the vertical section at the top. Here is a link to the handrails:
http://csi.moen.com/catalog/collection.cfm?type=peened
ENOUGH FUN, NOW BACK TO WORK…
I spent a lot of time on the drywall taping and finishing. All the taping is finished. The inside corners are probably the hardest to do, but I found using the sticky mesh tape with a corner knife is the easiest way. I’m throwing out the paper tape! Three coat of mud is definitely needed to remove all the surface irregularities. I have a lot of corners in these rooms so it is a big job for a novice.
The attic is ready for prime and paint and I starting buying supplies. The rest of the apartment has a knockdown white ceiling and orange-peel textured walls and I would like to duplicate that as much as possible. I don’t really want to spray it on so I’m looking at alternatives such as rolling it on. I think I will be using a rolled on soupy joint compound to create the ceiling knockdown texture. There’s a special loop roller cover that you’re supposed to use to help create the texture. On the walls, I found a texture additive (made by HOMAX, http://texture.homaxproducts.com/product/4625701b-c762-443f-b691-711d3206756d.aspx) that you mix right in with the paint. I plan to add this to the primer/sealer coat, thus eliminating another step on the walls.
The rest of my stair tread covering materials will arrive this week so I will give that a try on a couple treads next time to break up the drywall monotony.
My stairway handrails arrived and I decided to get all the mount holes drilled before I finished the drywall. Now I just have to remember not to “patch” the holes! I had the locations marked on the bare drywall already when I was trying to figure out what lengths to buy, so it was easy. They are stainless steel with a “shot-peened” grip surface. I think it looks much better than the old wooden handrail, plus it allowed me to do the vertical section at the top. Here is a link to the handrails:
http://csi.moen.com/catalog/collection.cfm?type=peened
ENOUGH FUN, NOW BACK TO WORK…
I spent a lot of time on the drywall taping and finishing. All the taping is finished. The inside corners are probably the hardest to do, but I found using the sticky mesh tape with a corner knife is the easiest way. I’m throwing out the paper tape! Three coat of mud is definitely needed to remove all the surface irregularities. I have a lot of corners in these rooms so it is a big job for a novice.
The attic is ready for prime and paint and I starting buying supplies. The rest of the apartment has a knockdown white ceiling and orange-peel textured walls and I would like to duplicate that as much as possible. I don’t really want to spray it on so I’m looking at alternatives such as rolling it on. I think I will be using a rolled on soupy joint compound to create the ceiling knockdown texture. There’s a special loop roller cover that you’re supposed to use to help create the texture. On the walls, I found a texture additive (made by HOMAX, http://texture.homaxproducts.com/product/4625701b-c762-443f-b691-711d3206756d.aspx) that you mix right in with the paint. I plan to add this to the primer/sealer coat, thus eliminating another step on the walls.
The rest of my stair tread covering materials will arrive this week so I will give that a try on a couple treads next time to break up the drywall monotony.
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1SlowFormula
Well-known member
Like others have posted, this is one hell of a shop/office/garage you have going on here...
Thanks for all the updates, and best of luck on the rest of your projects...
Thanks for all the updates, and best of luck on the rest of your projects...
THE CURE FOR THE ORDINARY STAIRS…
All my material arrived for the stairway tread covering so I decided to do a quick mock-up to see how it would look. I already bought the 10x24” black rubber tread covers awhile back from Vermont Country Store at $3/each. I found stair nosing from M&D Products, which is an aluminum ribbed extrusion. It costs $9 per 6ft piece but that makes two steps. Flanking the rubber sheet is aluminum diamond plate from DiamondLife. What’s unique about their product is that is adhesive backed so installation should be easy. I bought one 12” square for each tread at $4.50 and cut it on my miter saw. Grand total is about $12 per tread if your treads are less than 3 feet wide. I’m still trying to decide what to do for the risers, but I’m leaning towards the aluminum tile board I use extensively throughout the shop. With enough contrasting black trim, it should look nice. Lowe’s had the paneling on clearance at $5/sheet so I now have a boat-load of it. One picture shows some of it propped up in place as an example.
THE STORAGE ATTIC IS PAINTED...
I had a little bit of mud work to finish up but I managed to get the paint on the walls this weekend. It is great to see the finished product and it looks like my drywall finishing skills are adequate. I didn’t bother adding any wall texture up there because it is merely a closet, but it shows the walls are smooth enough that I could skip the texture in the main office area if I want.
I did practice some texturing, however, since some of the old textured wall is still showing in the office and stairway and I need to blend with it. I found a soupy mix of joint compound applied with a texture (loop) roller duplicates the existing splatter texture in the apartment fairly well. Aerosol cans of texture are available to get in the corners (where the roller can’t reach). Regardless of what I do on the walls, I think I will leave the ceilings smooth rather than try to match the knock-down texture everywhere else. That is a bit harder to master and probably should be left to the professionals.
The attic doors and other trim got the final paint job. Next week, I should be able to do the electrical, get the doors back on, store everything back up there, and seal it off so I can get some elbow room back in the office again. I’m sick of bumping into things.
All my material arrived for the stairway tread covering so I decided to do a quick mock-up to see how it would look. I already bought the 10x24” black rubber tread covers awhile back from Vermont Country Store at $3/each. I found stair nosing from M&D Products, which is an aluminum ribbed extrusion. It costs $9 per 6ft piece but that makes two steps. Flanking the rubber sheet is aluminum diamond plate from DiamondLife. What’s unique about their product is that is adhesive backed so installation should be easy. I bought one 12” square for each tread at $4.50 and cut it on my miter saw. Grand total is about $12 per tread if your treads are less than 3 feet wide. I’m still trying to decide what to do for the risers, but I’m leaning towards the aluminum tile board I use extensively throughout the shop. With enough contrasting black trim, it should look nice. Lowe’s had the paneling on clearance at $5/sheet so I now have a boat-load of it. One picture shows some of it propped up in place as an example.
THE STORAGE ATTIC IS PAINTED...
I had a little bit of mud work to finish up but I managed to get the paint on the walls this weekend. It is great to see the finished product and it looks like my drywall finishing skills are adequate. I didn’t bother adding any wall texture up there because it is merely a closet, but it shows the walls are smooth enough that I could skip the texture in the main office area if I want.
I did practice some texturing, however, since some of the old textured wall is still showing in the office and stairway and I need to blend with it. I found a soupy mix of joint compound applied with a texture (loop) roller duplicates the existing splatter texture in the apartment fairly well. Aerosol cans of texture are available to get in the corners (where the roller can’t reach). Regardless of what I do on the walls, I think I will leave the ceilings smooth rather than try to match the knock-down texture everywhere else. That is a bit harder to master and probably should be left to the professionals.
The attic doors and other trim got the final paint job. Next week, I should be able to do the electrical, get the doors back on, store everything back up there, and seal it off so I can get some elbow room back in the office again. I’m sick of bumping into things.
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autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
Good on the stairs - I'm looking at something like that & like the idea of the paneling for the risers....do you have the Lowe's stock number off your receipt?
Thanks for the feedback Autoist.
Lowe's stock numbers for the simulated brushed stainless/aluminum:
Tile board - 211662 @ $5.47/sheet
Pegboard - 211606 @ $4.99/sheet
That's a steal, and as I mention in post #28, it's fairly water resistant.
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HERE ARE SOME SHOTS OF THE COMPLETED STORAGE ATTIC…
I started out the weekend by completing the attic so I could store the stuff cluttering the office. There were lights to install, sliding door track to mount, and electrical wiring to finish. I ran one outlet up there just in case I need it someday. I also routed some speaker wires in case I decide to hide some speakers behind the sliding doors. The lights look great mounted in the ceiling and give a good indication of what the main office area will look like.
IT’S GREAT TO FINALLY GET A COAT OF PAINT ON THIS DRYWALL…
Even though it’s just primer, the office certainly has that finished look now. After completing the attic, I spent the rest of the weekend in a cloud of plaster dust. It was time to see how good a job I did on the taping the office. Up to this point, I hadn’t done any sanding – just nice fine coats of compound with a little knife scraping to smooth it out between coats. But it was time to create some dust. I was able to sand out most of the imperfections but there were still quite a few spots that needed to be touched up. I found the best way to see the bad spots was to turn off the lights and shine a work light down the wall – grooves/pits will cast shadows. After more sanding and cleaning, I was satisfied and the primer coat when on. I will inspect it closely next weekend and touch up any spots the paint didn’t fill.
I started out the weekend by completing the attic so I could store the stuff cluttering the office. There were lights to install, sliding door track to mount, and electrical wiring to finish. I ran one outlet up there just in case I need it someday. I also routed some speaker wires in case I decide to hide some speakers behind the sliding doors. The lights look great mounted in the ceiling and give a good indication of what the main office area will look like.
IT’S GREAT TO FINALLY GET A COAT OF PAINT ON THIS DRYWALL…
Even though it’s just primer, the office certainly has that finished look now. After completing the attic, I spent the rest of the weekend in a cloud of plaster dust. It was time to see how good a job I did on the taping the office. Up to this point, I hadn’t done any sanding – just nice fine coats of compound with a little knife scraping to smooth it out between coats. But it was time to create some dust. I was able to sand out most of the imperfections but there were still quite a few spots that needed to be touched up. I found the best way to see the bad spots was to turn off the lights and shine a work light down the wall – grooves/pits will cast shadows. After more sanding and cleaning, I was satisfied and the primer coat when on. I will inspect it closely next weekend and touch up any spots the paint didn’t fill.
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I ONLY HAD TIME TO FINISH THE CEILING IN THE OFFICE…
Some outdoor chores slowed down the work inside. Two coats of white paint are rolled on. The smooth ceiling shows every little flaw, but I will probably be the only one that will notice them (except maybe my dad). Luckily, the recessed troffer lights do not actually shine on the ceiling surface so the flaws will not cast any shadows. So the ceiling is done and the next time out, I can install the light fixtures and temporarily wire them to the wall switch. The next project will be texturing the walls. They look pretty good in primer and if it wasn’t for the existing textured walls, I probably would just leave them smooth too.
I HAD ANOTHER DISTRACTION THIS WEEKEND…
A guy at work was getting rid of an old drafting desk and he thought I might want it. Well, I jumped at the opportunity because I know these things are built like Sherman tanks and have some really cool features. It was complete with drafting board and Vemco drafting machine. Here’s a shot after unloading it from the trailer.
The guy had it apart so we could load it on the trailer but here are some pictures of an identical one from the internet for reference…
My plan is to install the drafting board part of it (green board with drafting machine mounted) on the wall up in the office. I will make a mount that lets it hinge up flat against the wall when not in use and fold down to any angle (including horizontal) when I need to use it. I doubt it will be used for any drafting, but the sliding tracks of the drafting machine will come in handy for many other things. Here is how I would like to mount it.
The base is what’s really cool about these old dinosaurs. They have a counterbalance system in them to allow you to adjust the height of the table surface a range of 15” with a foot pedal. And the work surface can tilt from 0 to 90 degrees by pulling a lever. The tilt function is also counterbalanced, but with torsion springs. Here are two shots with the side covers off showing the lift arms at their lowest and highest positions.
I have some heavy duty casters to mount on it that will put the work surface at 36” in the lowest position. Although I remember these things being really stout, I’m going to add some quick adjusting prop rods to the cantilevered corners of the table just to be sure. A solid core door will be cut to match it and become the adjustable work surface. It will “dock” underneath another 42” high workbench along the wall when not in use, but will probably spend most of the time rolled out in the middle as an “island” workbench for my main projects.
The fun never stops!
Some outdoor chores slowed down the work inside. Two coats of white paint are rolled on. The smooth ceiling shows every little flaw, but I will probably be the only one that will notice them (except maybe my dad). Luckily, the recessed troffer lights do not actually shine on the ceiling surface so the flaws will not cast any shadows. So the ceiling is done and the next time out, I can install the light fixtures and temporarily wire them to the wall switch. The next project will be texturing the walls. They look pretty good in primer and if it wasn’t for the existing textured walls, I probably would just leave them smooth too.
I HAD ANOTHER DISTRACTION THIS WEEKEND…
A guy at work was getting rid of an old drafting desk and he thought I might want it. Well, I jumped at the opportunity because I know these things are built like Sherman tanks and have some really cool features. It was complete with drafting board and Vemco drafting machine. Here’s a shot after unloading it from the trailer.
The guy had it apart so we could load it on the trailer but here are some pictures of an identical one from the internet for reference…
My plan is to install the drafting board part of it (green board with drafting machine mounted) on the wall up in the office. I will make a mount that lets it hinge up flat against the wall when not in use and fold down to any angle (including horizontal) when I need to use it. I doubt it will be used for any drafting, but the sliding tracks of the drafting machine will come in handy for many other things. Here is how I would like to mount it.
The base is what’s really cool about these old dinosaurs. They have a counterbalance system in them to allow you to adjust the height of the table surface a range of 15” with a foot pedal. And the work surface can tilt from 0 to 90 degrees by pulling a lever. The tilt function is also counterbalanced, but with torsion springs. Here are two shots with the side covers off showing the lift arms at their lowest and highest positions.
I have some heavy duty casters to mount on it that will put the work surface at 36” in the lowest position. Although I remember these things being really stout, I’m going to add some quick adjusting prop rods to the cantilevered corners of the table just to be sure. A solid core door will be cut to match it and become the adjustable work surface. It will “dock” underneath another 42” high workbench along the wall when not in use, but will probably spend most of the time rolled out in the middle as an “island” workbench for my main projects.
The fun never stops!
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I DIDN’T HAVE MUCH TIME TO WORK THIS WEEKEND, BUT…
I managed to get quite a few things done. Since the office ceiling was finished, I decided to install the recessed fluorescent lights so I could put away the work lights. They look and work great.
I wish the wall texturing had gone as smooth. The plan was to use the spray can to complete the texture on the existing wall that already had some, but I ran into a snag right out of the gate. The spray nozzle clogged instantly when I tried it on a sample piece of cardboard. I should have ran into town and bought another can. But instead, I then tried to roll-on the texture. I mixed up the soupy compound, rolled, rolled, and rolled some more to get it on the wall. I guess I “worked” it too much and it starting to pull up the top layers of compound on the wall. Disaster! Never expected that! It probably took me 3 hours to texture that one wall after it was all patched finished. Needless to say, I left the rest of the walls smooth.
The next day, I was finally able to finish paint the walls. I ordered the same color code paint that is in the apartment, but it seems to be much darker. It’s not bad, but I was hoping I could stock one can of touchup paint for the entire place. The darker color does make me happy I installed 4 light fixtures rather than two – very little light reflects off the walls. I think one coat of paint is enough but a good inspection next time will decide.
I also got another coat of joint compound on the stairway walls. One more and they will be ready for sanding.
Here are some shots. It’s hard to tell, but the ceiling is pure white and the walls are medium gray.
I bought the casters to mount on the rolling workbench but ran out of time to drill the holes and mount them. The 1600# capacity each is way overkill, but no one ever complains about that in a workshop. I already had two of them sitting around and I ordered two more on clearance.
I managed to get quite a few things done. Since the office ceiling was finished, I decided to install the recessed fluorescent lights so I could put away the work lights. They look and work great.
I wish the wall texturing had gone as smooth. The plan was to use the spray can to complete the texture on the existing wall that already had some, but I ran into a snag right out of the gate. The spray nozzle clogged instantly when I tried it on a sample piece of cardboard. I should have ran into town and bought another can. But instead, I then tried to roll-on the texture. I mixed up the soupy compound, rolled, rolled, and rolled some more to get it on the wall. I guess I “worked” it too much and it starting to pull up the top layers of compound on the wall. Disaster! Never expected that! It probably took me 3 hours to texture that one wall after it was all patched finished. Needless to say, I left the rest of the walls smooth.
The next day, I was finally able to finish paint the walls. I ordered the same color code paint that is in the apartment, but it seems to be much darker. It’s not bad, but I was hoping I could stock one can of touchup paint for the entire place. The darker color does make me happy I installed 4 light fixtures rather than two – very little light reflects off the walls. I think one coat of paint is enough but a good inspection next time will decide.
I also got another coat of joint compound on the stairway walls. One more and they will be ready for sanding.
Here are some shots. It’s hard to tell, but the ceiling is pure white and the walls are medium gray.
I bought the casters to mount on the rolling workbench but ran out of time to drill the holes and mount them. The 1600# capacity each is way overkill, but no one ever complains about that in a workshop. I already had two of them sitting around and I ordered two more on clearance.
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THE NEW WORKBENCH GETS SOME WHEELS…
I took some time to mount the casters on the workbench. I also added some floor locks to stabilize it when I’m working on something. I had an old solid core door already cut down to the perfect size to bolt on temporarily. I might have to trim down the top a bit when I figure out the exact location where it will “dock” along the wall. At least now I can move it about without using the crane.
I THINK I CAN FINALLY PUT THE JOINT COMPOUND AWAY…
The stairway walls got the last coat of mud, sanded down, textured, and primed this weekend. Hooray – no more major dust. I only textured the one wall that already had some on it. For some reason, it went much easier than last time. Hopefully next weekend I can roll on the wall paint and start working on all the trim. Soon I will have to choose the flooring and matching workbench material for the office.
I took some time to mount the casters on the workbench. I also added some floor locks to stabilize it when I’m working on something. I had an old solid core door already cut down to the perfect size to bolt on temporarily. I might have to trim down the top a bit when I figure out the exact location where it will “dock” along the wall. At least now I can move it about without using the crane.
I THINK I CAN FINALLY PUT THE JOINT COMPOUND AWAY…
The stairway walls got the last coat of mud, sanded down, textured, and primed this weekend. Hooray – no more major dust. I only textured the one wall that already had some on it. For some reason, it went much easier than last time. Hopefully next weekend I can roll on the wall paint and start working on all the trim. Soon I will have to choose the flooring and matching workbench material for the office.
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THE HEAT WAS TOO MUCH FOR ME THIS PAST WEEKEND…
I could only take working one day with temps in the high 90s and decided the rest of the weekend would be spent in the pool drinking tall cool ones. Before you call me a slacker – keep in mind I managed to complete all the “must dos” on my list. The stairway ceiling is now white and the walls have their finish coat on. The office door (and jamb) also got two coats of gloss white and should be dry when I am ready to install it. And I got a good start on the dust cleanup (that might take several weekends!)
I also researched laminate flooring a bit this weekend and think I have that narrowed down. What I’ve discovered is that the edge trim pieces are going to cost almost as much as the bulk flooring for my job with all the built in work surfaces. I still should be able to do the job for around $300.
I could only take working one day with temps in the high 90s and decided the rest of the weekend would be spent in the pool drinking tall cool ones. Before you call me a slacker – keep in mind I managed to complete all the “must dos” on my list. The stairway ceiling is now white and the walls have their finish coat on. The office door (and jamb) also got two coats of gloss white and should be dry when I am ready to install it. And I got a good start on the dust cleanup (that might take several weekends!)
I also researched laminate flooring a bit this weekend and think I have that narrowed down. What I’ve discovered is that the edge trim pieces are going to cost almost as much as the bulk flooring for my job with all the built in work surfaces. I still should be able to do the job for around $300.
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rieferman
Well-known member
Thanks for all the detailed updates and pictures. Really inspiring, great attention to quality and detail. I have to re-teach myself how to mud in a couple weeks, I'll look here to keep my ambitions high!
R1chy
Well-known member
The trick with mudding is to put on the first coat, not too thick, let it dry, knock off the high points with a wide blade (not sand) and then use the second and third coats to pull it smooth. I learned from a guy that worked on the original build of the Pentagon and using the above method you can get a smooth finish without sanding.
Good luck, R1chy
Good luck, R1chy
Thanks for all the detailed updates and pictures. Really inspiring, great attention to quality and detail. I have to re-teach myself how to mud in a couple weeks, I'll look here to keep my ambitions high!
POWER - AT LAST…
No more extension cords, no more temporary wiring; the office electrical is finally done! I still need to wire the crane circuit, but that will happen when I finish the stairway “exterior” wall. It took about 8 hours to wire up all the outlets and switches. Then it took about 2 hours (with the main power shut down) to tap into the main panel with my 6 different circuits. The only wiring problem I had was a couple of flipped wires on my 3-way stairway light switches, so I was pretty happy.
I had so much time left over that I hung the office door and installed the latch/lock set. At this point I was able to fire up the air conditioner. What a pleasant change! That gave me a second wind so I installed the in-wall stereo system and had some tunes. Still feeling good (and after a few more brewski’s), I decided hanging the attic doors would only take a half hour or so. With that going as planned, I moved to the nasty-hot stairway and installed the handrails. That finally did me in, and had to call it a night! Besides, my good luck had to end sometime and I thought I better stop while I was ahead.
AND NEXT…
My flooring was ordered last week and I just got an email notifying I can come and pick it up, so that is probably next on the agenda in a week or two. Besides the floor, I will be covering every work surface and the window sills with it for a coordinated look. Stair nose trim will be used to hide the raw edges. I got a good deal on the matching trim on ebay (half-price) so hopefully that shows up this week as well.
There is still a bunch of trim work to do in the office, but I can work on that at my leisure.
No more extension cords, no more temporary wiring; the office electrical is finally done! I still need to wire the crane circuit, but that will happen when I finish the stairway “exterior” wall. It took about 8 hours to wire up all the outlets and switches. Then it took about 2 hours (with the main power shut down) to tap into the main panel with my 6 different circuits. The only wiring problem I had was a couple of flipped wires on my 3-way stairway light switches, so I was pretty happy.
I had so much time left over that I hung the office door and installed the latch/lock set. At this point I was able to fire up the air conditioner. What a pleasant change! That gave me a second wind so I installed the in-wall stereo system and had some tunes. Still feeling good (and after a few more brewski’s), I decided hanging the attic doors would only take a half hour or so. With that going as planned, I moved to the nasty-hot stairway and installed the handrails. That finally did me in, and had to call it a night! Besides, my good luck had to end sometime and I thought I better stop while I was ahead.
AND NEXT…
My flooring was ordered last week and I just got an email notifying I can come and pick it up, so that is probably next on the agenda in a week or two. Besides the floor, I will be covering every work surface and the window sills with it for a coordinated look. Stair nose trim will be used to hide the raw edges. I got a good deal on the matching trim on ebay (half-price) so hopefully that shows up this week as well.
There is still a bunch of trim work to do in the office, but I can work on that at my leisure.
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1SlowFormula
Well-known member
looking good
LUCKY:
They are all out of that pegboad at my local stores...I even contacted the manufacturer and they don't make it anymore. What's leftover in stores and their stock room is it.
I was planing on using 5 sheets in my garage, guess I am a year too late in buying.
IT’S AMAZING WHAT A LITTLE FLOORING MATERIAL CAN DO…
The laminate flooring job was pretty straight-forward. I started at the doorway and worked my way into the room since the manufacturer suggested to work under door jambs first. I hated to cut the hole, but per code, I needed to leave access to the electrical junction box between floors. It is nearly invisible when installed so I can live with it. Baseboards will be white and that project will get done next.
The desk work surfaces are also now covered. I still need to install all the stair-nose trim to finish them off. When purchasing the material, I figured 10% extra, but by working from the large to small areas, there is very little scrap, more like 1-2%. The short sections of planks trimmed off in the beginning can be used to cover the window sills and such at the end. Cost of the project was $325 for the laminate and underlayment (150 sq ft) and another $125 for the stair nose trim (5 pieces @ 94”).
AND A FEW OTHER THINGS…
I installed the ceiling fan. I chose a 24” version by Monte Carlo so that the blades didn’t protrude too close to the attic doors. It moves plenty of air and with the A/C outlet blowing right straight at it, this fan distributes air evenly throughout the room. Lastly, I installed the lighted “Kawasaki” sign in the wall recess at the top of the stairs. For some reason, the camera wasn’t focusing properly, but I think you get the idea. It will eventually be tied in to the "night light" circuit that powers all the backlit signs and banners in the shop.
The laminate flooring job was pretty straight-forward. I started at the doorway and worked my way into the room since the manufacturer suggested to work under door jambs first. I hated to cut the hole, but per code, I needed to leave access to the electrical junction box between floors. It is nearly invisible when installed so I can live with it. Baseboards will be white and that project will get done next.
The desk work surfaces are also now covered. I still need to install all the stair-nose trim to finish them off. When purchasing the material, I figured 10% extra, but by working from the large to small areas, there is very little scrap, more like 1-2%. The short sections of planks trimmed off in the beginning can be used to cover the window sills and such at the end. Cost of the project was $325 for the laminate and underlayment (150 sq ft) and another $125 for the stair nose trim (5 pieces @ 94”).
AND A FEW OTHER THINGS…
I installed the ceiling fan. I chose a 24” version by Monte Carlo so that the blades didn’t protrude too close to the attic doors. It moves plenty of air and with the A/C outlet blowing right straight at it, this fan distributes air evenly throughout the room. Lastly, I installed the lighted “Kawasaki” sign in the wall recess at the top of the stairs. For some reason, the camera wasn’t focusing properly, but I think you get the idea. It will eventually be tied in to the "night light" circuit that powers all the backlit signs and banners in the shop.
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THE TRIM WORK HAS STARTED…
But it’s going slowly. I was only able to finish the door casing, baseboards, and trim under the attic sliding doors. Although I now have all the material to start the trim on the workbenches, I decided to do some general cleaning because I was sick of tripping over stuff in the shop.
If you look closely at the wall by the door, you will see a fan remote hanging by the light switches. Rather than drilling holes in the new wall, I simply swapped the 3-gang wall plate for a 4-gang plate and mounted the remote bracket to the 4th position hanging over the drywall. If I decide to move it in the future, there will be no screw holes to patch and paint.
But it’s going slowly. I was only able to finish the door casing, baseboards, and trim under the attic sliding doors. Although I now have all the material to start the trim on the workbenches, I decided to do some general cleaning because I was sick of tripping over stuff in the shop.
If you look closely at the wall by the door, you will see a fan remote hanging by the light switches. Rather than drilling holes in the new wall, I simply swapped the 3-gang wall plate for a 4-gang plate and mounted the remote bracket to the 4th position hanging over the drywall. If I decide to move it in the future, there will be no screw holes to patch and paint.
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boiler7904
Well-known member
THE TRIM WORK HAS STARTED…
But it’s going slowly. I was only able to finish the door casing, baseboards, and trim under the attic sliding doors. Although I now have all the material to start the trim on the workbenches, I decided to do some general cleaning because I was sick of tripping over stuff in the shop.
If you look closely at the wall by the door, you will see a fan remote hanging by the light switches. Rather than drilling holes in the new wall, I simply swapped the 3-gang wall plate for a 4-gang plate and mounted the remote bracket to the 4th position hanging over the drywall. If I decide to move it in the future, there will be no screw holes to patch and paint.
Your building is looking great.
It's the little details like the ceiling fan remote mounting that make this place such a good resource when doing projects around the garage and house.
I'm going to have to steal that one for our master bedroom when I repaint in a couple of weeks. The remote is currently mounted to the wall but it looks awkward at best. I'm just curious what you used for screws to mount it without creating holes in the drywall.
In the shop, I'm using "designer" outlets and switches which have the large rectangular cutouts, but I've used this trick on the standard series as well. You basically need to "fill" the rectangular cutout unless the remote holder covers it completely. I had to fill it since the Hunter bracket is small, so I used a Cable TV plate and removed the metal connector. When mounted to the plate, it's flush with the back of the wall plate.
Basically, the Cable TV plate is totally suspended in the wall plate by the upper and lower screws. I had to trim these screws a bit so they didn't hit the drywall, but most electrical connector crimpers have the ability to nip off small screws (four holes around pivot point) and make easy work of that task. I then drilled a couple of small holes in the cable TV "filler" plate to match the remote bracket holes and threaded the screws in. I used shorter-than-supplied screws to mount the bracket (misc hardware is plentiful at my place!) Don't use ceramic plates if you need to drill in them, as they tend to crack easily.
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THE TRIM WORK CONTINUES…
I installed the oak flat file and drawing roll cabinet last week but the picture didn’t turn out for some reason, so you are seeing it for the first time now. They were a tight squeeze, and looking back, I should have allowed just a bit more clearance for the drywall.
This trim work takes quite a bit of time, but it is rather enjoyable to see the final results. I took a try at the workbench edge trim this weekend and so far (knock on wood), I haven’t made a wrong cut. That’s good, because I didn’t buy any extra material – every piece has to count. One picture shows the built-up assembly I’m making to hold the stairnose in place. I used an inverted 3-1/4 base molding and mounted it to the stairnose with 1/2” aluminum angle (and some glue). This assembly will mount with nails through the top of the white base molding into the main 2x4 framing. I’m going to try it without any glue (just nails) to see how sturdy it is. Glue just seems too permanent if I ever need to replace the laminate workbench surface.
BTW – I inserted some pictures in the previous post dealing with remote mounting.
I installed the oak flat file and drawing roll cabinet last week but the picture didn’t turn out for some reason, so you are seeing it for the first time now. They were a tight squeeze, and looking back, I should have allowed just a bit more clearance for the drywall.
This trim work takes quite a bit of time, but it is rather enjoyable to see the final results. I took a try at the workbench edge trim this weekend and so far (knock on wood), I haven’t made a wrong cut. That’s good, because I didn’t buy any extra material – every piece has to count. One picture shows the built-up assembly I’m making to hold the stairnose in place. I used an inverted 3-1/4 base molding and mounted it to the stairnose with 1/2” aluminum angle (and some glue). This assembly will mount with nails through the top of the white base molding into the main 2x4 framing. I’m going to try it without any glue (just nails) to see how sturdy it is. Glue just seems too permanent if I ever need to replace the laminate workbench surface.
BTW – I inserted some pictures in the previous post dealing with remote mounting.
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I STARTED WORKING ON THE DRAWING BOARD WALL MOUNT SYSTEM…
As with most of my projects, I’m sure it will be a bit difficult to figure out exactly what I am up to until I get a bit further along. As I mentioned in a prior post, I intend to mount a large drawing board to the wall in the office. It will fold up against the wall when not in use, and have the ability to lock in various positions from angled to fully horizontal. I purchased some RV awning arms to become the standards (uprights) that mount to the wall and allow the necessary sliding action.
This CAD layout shows side views of the board in various positions. The blue blocks represent the top and bottom slide assemblies that the board and prop arms will hinge on. The top row shows the sequence to move from stored to angled positions. Note that once the lower slides are locked in their top position, the board can be angled out but the bottom edge maintains a constant height off the ground. The bottom row shows the sequence to move from the stored to horizontal positions. To gain more support in the horizontal position, the lower set of slides will have an alternate low position. Also note that the prop arms are telescopic to allow the different positions.
I started building the 4 slide blocks that the board and its 2 prop arm will mount on. An old 4’ I-beam level turned out to be a perfect fit inside the awning arm channels. No, I didn’t just chop up a new level – some were tossed in the scrap bin at work intended to be recycled. Well, I had my own recycling plan! This picture shows the block at various stages.
These pictures show the block installed in the channel. Shorter bolts will be installed when I have a chance to run to the hardware store.
I did get a little further on the office trim work...
I had to search out a couple of different profiles of molding to complete the footrest and trim out around the workbench top edges. What I found was some small 1-1/4 trim that will hide the edges of the laminate nicely. I’m sure the area around the footrest will be most challenging but I’ll give it a try. Luckily the material is cheap, so a couple of tries won’t break the bank.
As with most of my projects, I’m sure it will be a bit difficult to figure out exactly what I am up to until I get a bit further along. As I mentioned in a prior post, I intend to mount a large drawing board to the wall in the office. It will fold up against the wall when not in use, and have the ability to lock in various positions from angled to fully horizontal. I purchased some RV awning arms to become the standards (uprights) that mount to the wall and allow the necessary sliding action.
This CAD layout shows side views of the board in various positions. The blue blocks represent the top and bottom slide assemblies that the board and prop arms will hinge on. The top row shows the sequence to move from stored to angled positions. Note that once the lower slides are locked in their top position, the board can be angled out but the bottom edge maintains a constant height off the ground. The bottom row shows the sequence to move from the stored to horizontal positions. To gain more support in the horizontal position, the lower set of slides will have an alternate low position. Also note that the prop arms are telescopic to allow the different positions.
I started building the 4 slide blocks that the board and its 2 prop arm will mount on. An old 4’ I-beam level turned out to be a perfect fit inside the awning arm channels. No, I didn’t just chop up a new level – some were tossed in the scrap bin at work intended to be recycled. Well, I had my own recycling plan! This picture shows the block at various stages.
These pictures show the block installed in the channel. Shorter bolts will be installed when I have a chance to run to the hardware store.
I did get a little further on the office trim work...
I had to search out a couple of different profiles of molding to complete the footrest and trim out around the workbench top edges. What I found was some small 1-1/4 trim that will hide the edges of the laminate nicely. I’m sure the area around the footrest will be most challenging but I’ll give it a try. Luckily the material is cheap, so a couple of tries won’t break the bank.
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autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
I've already copied your stairs & am getting ready to add ceiling fans in the main part of my garage....just read an article that said ceiling fans should be at least 14" from ceiling to provide maximum efficiency uplift/downforce of air. Though you'd like to know that also.