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The VINTAGE toolboxes of Garage Journal!

taumac

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Aug 30, 2011
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Location
Brooksville, Fl
Yep, the square corners should put it into the 30's



I would guess the top was left open for decades maybe in front of a window and faded? :dunno:



Are yours square corner tops? Is the paint the wrinkle brown or more like the top he pictured? I know my rounded top is all wrinkled inside and out like the bottom of his. I wonder the story of box cause the paint looks odd IMO.
 
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LesserSon

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Feb 7, 2016
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Location
PA USA
So I picked up the chest, here are better pics. I'm good on vises but a complete NOOB about these chests; therefore, I'd like to ask this august body, what I should do with this one.

The Good: very nice original finish, very good shape for its age, LOTS of original intact hardware, great drawers, working locks when the lid is shut

The Bad: missing trim, missing front lock, old repairs in the top,

The verdict: Do I do a complete strip, sand and refinish or just clean up this finish with 0000 steel wool and a little wax? Completely strip off all hardware and re-polish to bright finish or just steel wool what is there and wax? What color for drawer liners and do I go with felt or what is there now which is blue velvet (prob not original)? Any idea as to who sells locks for this? I looked on a couple of sites but this lock is a double latch design.

I really would like your opinions. Thanks in advance
I assume you bought it because of its looks. It will never look this way again in your lifetime if you strip it. Considering how intact it is, I think it would be a crime against humanity to strip that finish. It takes decades for finish to creep and mottle and darken like that. And I would be damn careful cleaning it. Don't use hot water. I would see what a dry paper towel would do first. If that wasn't enough to satisfy, I might move up to a paper towel lightly sprayed with distilled water. Don't get it wet. The blush ring was likely caused by water that was forced into the finish by heat. Saw a freshly delivered pizza box do this to a table top. Not the pizza, mind you - that would have been worse - just the warm moisture from the cardboard. There seems to be dozen or more remedies on the net, but what I think has to happen is to find a solvent for that finish, and expose the blush to the solvent without softening the finish. Multiple light passes with a clean lint free cloth that barely kiss the surface, like a bolter maneuver on an aircraft carrier. I saw this on Furniture on the Mend, though their website does not seem to reference it, maybe because of the health hazards of breathing and handling solvents. They have some other suggestions.
As an alternative to using any water in cleaning, you might try rubbing it with a clean cloth and a dab of linseed oil. Don't do it if the air is too cool or humid for the oil to cure afterward. And don't leave paper or cloth that has linseed oil on it laying around. They can spontaneously combust, and the drying additives in the oil make that even more likely. Soak them in water and dispose of them properly. Rub the oil off the wood as much as you can. You never want it to be thick because it will turn to gum and never cure prolerly.
This may loosen dirt. It will deepen the tone of the wood, especially any places where the finish is worn through, so think about if that's what you want - to accentuate the appearance of age. I don't quite understand the aesthetic of removing all traces of age from antiques. But if it's what you like, polishing brass is one way to do it quick. I don't care for crusty green. But I do try lo leave as much coppery brown as I can. I use a little linseed oil on a toothbrush - not brass cleaner. Bright brass is just going to darken again anyway, and you are removing metal every time you polish it.
The piece looks more like something a talented cabinetmaker made for his own tools, than a factory box to me. It could be a lacquer finish, but shellac would be my first guess. Check a small inconspicuous spot with solvent alcohol on a q-tip. If it dissolves, it's shellac. Pretty easy stuff to use, once you learn how. Don't learn on this piece. Get some scap wood and experiment. Then touch up spots where the finish is badly scratched or missing. I would NOT give the whole piece a coat, tempting as it may be.
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
Are yours square corner tops? Is the paint the wrinkle brown or more like the top he pictured? I know my rounded top is all wrinkled inside and out like the bottom of his. I wonder the story of box cause the paint looks odd IMO.

One square top and one rounded top. The 30's wrinkle finish is more of a textured finish than a true modern style wrinkle. I have at least 3 different textures on different Kennedy's, not counting smooth.

I think the top is original, since the hasps are all identically aged. Mine has the texture his bottom appears to have, and I think the top is either seriously oxidized and faded, and/or loaded with dust.

I'd be interested in seeing both the top and bottom cleaned with WD-40, then more pics taken.
 

HubbaBubba

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May 20, 2011
Messages
256
Hello all, please help me identify this box. My guess is a Huot but....
 

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jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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Location
New England
Not a color scheme I've ever seen on a Huot and no circle swoosh on the front. I'm guessing it has to be something else. By the time Huot was using rectangular pulls, they were imprinting the swoosh on their boxes, as far as I know.
 

twertsy

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Jan 5, 2014
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Reedville, VA
Pretty good score today. Taco and MBC top box for $300. Now, where to put them..................
 

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Motorman55

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South Jersey
I've heard leather puts its back to 40's 50's but the square corners makes it older. Now I notice the color change from the top lid to rest of the box. Has it or look like ever been swapped out.

The box is totally original as is the paint. Just sat on a machinists bench for many, many years. I got it from my father-in law who got it from his friend at work who retired. I also have many of his tools that were in it.
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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New England
Place them end to end in the middle of the shop. If you set each side up identical, you won't have to walk around the box to find anything no matter which side of the shop you're working on. :lol:
 

Motorman55

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Apr 10, 2016
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South Jersey
I just picked this Kennedy up today for $5.00

Someone painted it a flat black. the interior trays are an original smooth gloss green color while the rest of it is the wrinkle brown color. Its leather handle has seen better days.

It still has the original label inside.
 

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toddmp

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May 27, 2014
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133
Location
Eastbay, CA
cleaned it out and sanded. added new casters to replace the broken old creeper ones. I used some rust restore coating to kill any leftover rust in the bottom area and drawers. It leaves a nice black protective coating. sanded the box, wiped with mineral spirits and applied liberal coat of Briwax. I will buff and apply at least 2 more coats as this box was thirsty!

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DuroChrome

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Apr 24, 2015
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323
Location
Oregon
My neighbor has a craftsman double rollaway and matching workbench with drawers. I told him I was interested in it and he agreed to give it to me if I replace it with a comparable rollaway. The rollaway is a a two piece (11 total drawers) red and gray model with the V-Craftsman logo. He would be happy with a replacement of some harbour freight units as he rarely uses the tools. Opinions? The replacements are $200. The craftsman rollaway and workbench is in great condition and has a little surface rust in a few spots. It is pristine. Same style as this one...
 

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Blue Frog

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Jun 22, 2014
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363
Location
Lynn Haven, FL
Who is the GJ'er that likes the Craftsman Crown Logo - the youngster in AL who is on the lookout for a Craftsman 5198? Well, here's a small box that I picked up today.





And inside are a couple of nice chucks - a Craftsman with a 1/2-20 connecting hole, and a Supreme (made in USA) with a MT connecting hole - sorry, I don't know the number for the MT.





Just couldn't leave it behind.

Blue Frog
 

taumac

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Aug 30, 2011
Messages
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Location
Brooksville, Fl
My neighbor has a craftsman double rollaway and matching workbench with drawers. I told him I was interested in it and he agreed to give it to me if I replace it with a comparable rollaway. The rollaway is a a two piece (11 total drawers) red and gray model with the V-Craftsman logo. He would be happy with a replacement of some harbour freight units as he rarely uses the tools. Opinions? The replacements are $200. The craftsman rollaway and workbench is in great condition and has a little surface rust in a few spots. It is pristine. Same style as this one...



Hmmmm that's looks familiar. LOL

So when you say double rollaway meaning 1 stack (chest and bottom roller) and matching bench? So guessing if 12 drawers it's a 6drawer top chest and 5drawer bottom roller?
 

r_olson_06

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Feb 12, 2012
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Location
SD
Who is the GJ'er that likes the Craftsman Crown Logo - the youngster in AL who is on the lookout for a Craftsman 5198? Well, here's a small box that I picked up today.





And inside are a couple of nice chucks - a Craftsman with a 1/2-20 connecting hole, and a Supreme (made in USA) with a MT connecting hole - sorry, I don't know the number for the MT.





Just couldn't leave it behind.

Blue Frog
Man that looks similar.
uploadfromtaptalk1461025481506.jpg
O yea I have one too. With the original book and sockets appear to unused.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 
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taumac

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Aug 30, 2011
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Brooksville, Fl
Friction slide lube test using JUST using Door ease, paraffin wax and beeswax. This is just test between these 3 and not any other lubes that others might use. This is just my results just using these 3. I was supposed to do this months ago and getting my chest up and working I thought it would be best time. Forgive the condition of chest as I just got it and plan a sand and paint at future day.

I'll using small 3 drawers on this chest for the test.
0654411c7a2ea85ad75e7ac2f31baa65.jpg

I took all the drawers out and cleaned the box guides and drawer guides. I did one drawer with door ease, one with paraffin, and one with bees wax.
To test with weight I had these lead weights. aebfe17eb76391e2e9f285d2556941ce.jpg
73d6530d0972db601457a22b6a8a9afb.jpg

My unscientific results is door ease is real easy to apply while I used a heat gun to help the paraffin and the bees wax. I noticed little drag on the beeswax but smelt the best when using heat to apply to slide. I notice very little to no difference between door ease and paraffin.

Here's the big difference I see in all this.

eee8819173ff5a543b5f60895819ba1d.jpg

The door ease wasn't cheap and hard to find. My buddy found me some at a store and said somewhere about $8 to 10 iirc.

The middle is paraffin and is cheap and can be found everywhere. That's half of the original bar and 3 come in a package.

The right is beeswax and I found that at a Ace hardware and they only had one and think it was around $6.

So my thought is paraffin probably the cheapest, easiest to find with about same results as the door ease.
 

taumac

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Brooksville, Fl
FYI, Doorease uses paraffin as a primary component.



True, when we had this discussion awhile back we came to that conclusion. It was other stuff they put in there which made it better. Anyway not sure who said that someone should test them on clean slides, and use ivory soap, door ease, paraffin and beeswax to see how the compared to each other. Well I just cleaned up the slides and had 3 or the 4 so tried it.
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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New England
My experience with beeswax is that it works well, but it can sometimes be a little sticky at the start of the pull if the drawer sits for a while. I'm hooked on Door-Ease.
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
Ivory soap in my opinion is at its best in wood as a "slide" lube. I'm also a door-Eaz fan. it also works great on the bottoms of the metal parts bins that are close to a 3x5 card drawer.

I bought my first stick of door ease well over 30 years ago. Its still being used up (Almost there!), and I've picked up 3-4 more at yard sales, so more than a lifetime supply at this point.
 

taumac

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Brooksville, Fl
Ivory soap in my opinion is at its best in wood as a "slide" lube. I'm also a door-Eaz fan. it also works great on the bottoms of the metal parts bins that are close to a 3x5 card drawer.

I bought my first stick of door ease well over 30 years ago. Its still being used up (Almost there!), and I've picked up 3-4 more at yard sales, so more than a lifetime supply at this point.



I did like how easy the door ease was to use cause it didn't flake like the paraffin. I did count how many drawers I got to do and got 59 drawers (118 slides) so might need another slick or so and that doesn't count my machinist chest.

Question to you guys? Do you guys lube the guides in box and drawers or just the slide itself. When I did my testing I just did slide itself and not guides.
 
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Outlawmws

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I try to get it where the weight bears, so top & bottom of the slide and bottom of the inside guide, top of the drawer guide.
 
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Motorman55

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South Jersey
That's easy. Only two of the thirty or so boxes I own are less than twenty years old. Here's six:
PICT0584.JPG

PICT0583.JPG

and
PICT0615.JPG

and
PICT0010.JPG


the rest will get pix sooner or later.

thnx, jack vines

Looking thru these older posts, this is one set of boxes I would like to own. Very cool slide out work top. I know I'll probably never find one of these, but it gives me an idea to make my own custom slide out(s).
 

taumac

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Aug 30, 2011
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Brooksville, Fl
The box is totally original as is the paint. Just sat on a machinists bench for many, many years. I got it from my father-in law who got it from his friend at work who retired. I also have many of his tools that were in it.



That's cool. Glad it's all original.
 

RedVise

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Jun 4, 2010
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Location
Gulf Coast, Fl
Well while I'm here, I might as well post a set up I picked up the other week. Older box on a homeowners setup. I thought it was neat, and it was cheap !!

Brian
 

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Levaughn

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Feb 17, 2015
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NY
I sort of restored this old Penn Line Toolbox. It wasn't a complete restoration, I just wanted it to look better than it previously did. I also wanted to save the decal of the Toolbox name, and the Aviation decal that the previous owner placed on it.
 

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Levaughn

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I taped over it with painters tape. It was pretty thick. With the Penn Line decal, I spray painted it with clear, let it dry then taped over it. I restored an old Woodland cooler and put the tape over it without spraying it with clear and when I removed the tape, I removed the decal too.
 

paulm12

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Apr 29, 2015
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NW Chicago 'burbs
picked up 2 Carter carb repair toolboxes, 1 is full. I don't have any Carter carbs, but these just looked too cool to pass. The red one has a receipt, purchased in 1960.
.
 

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toddmp

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Eastbay, CA
I taped over it with painters tape. It was pretty thick. With the Penn Line decal, I spray painted it with clear, let it dry then taped over it. I restored an old Woodland cooler and put the tape over it without spraying it with clear and when I removed the tape, I removed the decal too.

Im still confused. the before picture shows a ton of rust under what I assumed was a clear decal? the after picture shows a great condition decal. was there surface rust over the decal in the before picture?
 

Levaughn

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The Airplane decal was already in good condition. A friend who gave me the Toolbox, left it out in the elements while he had his new garage built and it got rusted. Most of the rust was on the surface of the door flap was surface rust. The Airplane decal was pretty thick and wasn't in bad condition to begin with. it was just dirty with rust. The discoloration was easily cleaned off with Vinegar. The decal never had any damage to it. I'm not familiar with Aeronautical items, but I assumed it belonged to an airplane mechanic, and wanted to pay homage to him by not destroying the decal. I doubt if you could find another one so I preserved it.
 

econotrk

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Aug 27, 2013
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275
Location
Western Pa. near Pgh. n dat
Really enjoying this thread, although at page 20 I have a long way to go to get caught up.

So here's what has me interested in hanging out here.

I've been on the lookout for an older box when this popped up on Clist only 5 minutes away. It was only minutes old when I called the PO to go have a look. Happy with what I found, we loaded it up for the quick ride to its new home. It does have some flaws, mainly the front has been bent down causing the top drawers to misalign. I've already ripped the carpet that was glued onto the top and into the drawer bottoms, going to be a mess removing the dried glue. With only $40 into it I don't mind taking the time to fix the boogers.

A question on the age, I'm guessing late 60's early 70's?
 

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