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Craftsman King-Seeley Band Saw 103.24280

firworks

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Jun 29, 2015
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4,080
Location
IL
The thing that has me wavering on whether to try real hard getting it all working is that it was the year with the stupid auto tensioning system. All of the other bandsaws like this I find have a rod sticking through the top of the case with a handle on it for adjusting the blade tension. This one was the revolutionary new design that you never have to tension! Which means it's always really low tension...

The stand is pretty sweet though. :)
 
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bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
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4,607
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CT
Successful conversion to a metal-cutting bandsaw!

IMG_4329_zpshxcj9h3c.jpg


1750 rpm stock motor --> 15:1 Grove gear worm reduction box --> 2" drive to 8" driven pulley = ~30 rpm == ~100fpm saw speed.

The little tilty table for belt tension works pretty nice too. This came with the saw.

that's a slick setup. I want to either put a gear reduction on mine or put a dc motor so i can change speeds.
 

nine4gmc

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Mar 24, 2012
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14,357
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Dallas
Here ya go JZiggy, just finished up. More pics in my projects thread, I have a couple things left but it's pretty much done.
02256.jpg
 
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JZiggy

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Dec 1, 2014
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990
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Atlanta
Oh man, that thing is sweet! Super nice work, thanks for sharing. What saw blade did you end up using?

Could you post up a couple of pics showing how the motor is mounted to the column?

On my saw I found that the table was slightly off 90* in both axes with respect to the blade. One axis you can correct with the stop bolt. The other, which would control the up/down of the table as you face it during use, I had to correct with shims between the table and the trunnion. Did you have to do anything like that?
 

nine4gmc

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Mar 24, 2012
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Thanks CK!

Just out of curiosity, anyone here have the larger Craftsman 18" band saw?
 

velocette

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
12
Hi
Can I add a bit of info that may be useful to anyone contemplating a variable speed drive on a 14 inch wheel band saw.
Use a 3.7 to reduction ratio and the motor RPM is equal to Feet Per Minute on the blade speed.
On a VFD and three phase motor and a 6 pole motor is a good choice.
A Bi-Metal blade for cutting metal will give better performance but be aware that to at too high speed and the teeth become a friction saw and lose their edge very quickly.
Posted a photo of my latest conversion with 1.5 hp DC motor
100 rpm = 114 FPM
2000 rpm = 2290 FPM
Eric
 

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JZiggy

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Atlanta
Eric,

Cool! Thanks for sharing. What RPM range can your motor run? Is 100-2000 rpm the limits?
 

velocette

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Feb 5, 2013
Messages
12
Eric,

Cool! Thanks for sharing. What RPM range can your motor run? Is 100-2000 rpm the limits?

Hi
the minimum speed is set to 80 rpm on the controller and this is little slow for cutting mild steel.
The motor is rated at 1800 RPM and is not too stressed running at 2000 RPM
In the planning stage is to fit a DC Tachometer Generator that will output 7 volts @ 1000 rpm.
This will give more stable running at low speed.
Any one interested can browse manuals at

http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_DC_Drives.html

Eric
 

Cbiskit

New member
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Messages
1
Hi Guys,

I am also restoring a King Seeley Bandsaw, 103.24280.

I am looking for a couple things and some help.

First, I was wondering where you all mount the motor? Mine was mounted originally sort of 'hanging' off the backside of the stand. I would like to move it underneath. Any suggestions or ideas for mounting it would be hugely helpful.

That issue would be solved if I could find a pedestal stand for it! Anybody have one? I will take it off your hands.

I'm also looking for the rip fence. That is hard to find as well.

That's enough for now.
Cbiskit
 

Zeeman

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Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
1,185
Location
Bartow County Georgia
^
I just got my 24280, and enjoyed this thread. Thanks for all the posts guys! I'll try to start a project thread soon. Mine is going to need some attention to the wheels for sure.
 

fholgado

New member
Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
4
Just a bit more info on that lower bearing. It's called an Integral Shaft bearing or more traditionally a water pump style bearing. They come from the factory with the shaft.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/4126807

I had to replace one on my Delta contractors saw, and ended up having to take the new part to a machine shop so they could add the threads, key way, and appropriate holes. They also had to press it back into the arbor housing.

The whole project was kind of a beast, and was more $ than I would have liked to spend, but it turned out great.

I'd be willing to bet the dimensions of the bearing are the same as the one on my saw! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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JZiggy

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Dec 1, 2014
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990
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Atlanta
Been working on the bandsaw a little bit. I am making a two-motor system that will let me swap a belt over from a direct-drive motor to a motor with the 15:1 gearbox.

First up, the "Grove Gear" worm drive box gets a teeny little oil change, which it clearly needed. The label lists AGMA8 as the lube, which I found corresponded to an ISO 680 EP gear oil. Super Lube sold this grade in bottles, so I got a quart on Amazon. Only needed 8oz though with two drain/fills. This lube is thick like corn syrup!

IMG_4764_zpscx9egrx7.jpg


More to come later...
 
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JZiggy

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990
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Atlanta
Curious if anyone has found a good source for replacement throat plates for these saws?
 

Red Leader

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May 15, 2011
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2,689
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Denver, CO
Great saws, guys. I don't have one but from what I have heard, they have a great reputation. I always love seeing some vintage Craftsman iron get some love:thumbup:
 
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JZiggy

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Dec 1, 2014
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990
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Atlanta
The band saw came on a pretty generously sized vintage stand, which gave me enough room to rig up a pair of motors to allow me to easily switch between metal and woods speeds.

The metal drive system was updated to a single-shaft GE motor which was the correct 5/8" shaft size. It made for a much more compact little transmission. This drive system is on the tilt base which is nice because it can easily apply a lot of tension to the belt. This drives the band saw at about 45 rpm = 150 blade fpm. Goes through stainless easily!

IMG_4789_zpsybh34pia.jpg


To cut wood, I loosen the metal drive system, swap the belt over to the motor on a door hinge (I think Nines likes to use door hinges too!) which tensions by self-weight. This runs the saw at 600 rpm = 2000 fpm, plenty fast for wood. The metal cutting saw it not ideal for wood projects but it works fine.

IMG_4790_zpszjuv3hwt.jpg


IMG_4791_zpsm5s4hoks.jpg


Just enough clearance!
 
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JZiggy

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Location
Atlanta
I am running a 1/2" wide Lenox bimetal blade. This bandsaw has trouble getting enough tension on a wide blade like this. Blade manufacturers indicate that 15,000 - 20,000 psi is the best tension range for bandsaw blades (at least bimetal ones like this, YMMV). I'll spare ya'll the math, but basically I need my spring to deliver about 200 pounds of force to get this much tension.

Again, sparing the math (PM me if you're interested in it), I calculated my factory spring has a spring rate of about 175 lbf/in. Fully compressed the spring can only create 150 lbf of tension. Also, springs don't really like to be used at total compression, so clearly I needed a bigger spring to hit > 200 lbf.

I chose a heavier die spring with a rate of 340 lbf/in that fits nicely in the space. Factory spring on the RH side below. This spring will be able to generate up to about 300 lbf before reaching maximum compression.

IMG_4778_zpswqrplygb.jpg


Before installing the heavier spring felt the need to build a little steel reinforcement around the die cast carriage. The horizontal "beam" of the carriage had already deformed downward about 1/16", either from overloading or from 60 years of creep. Original carriage with spring removed:

IMG_4773_zpsx5h4dpsw.jpg


Firstly, I upgraded the fasteners to studs:

IMG_4779_zpszbgtvf3f.jpg


Test fitting the angle iron prototype:

IMG_4780_zpsiywrvdig.jpg


After paint and installed with the new spring, at free length and compressed:

IMG_4784_zpsxhkeoytw.jpg

IMG_4785_zpsvirxnciw.jpg


This definitely increases blade tension and the saw seems to cut through metal stock more easily and straighter.
 

adamsrd

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Jul 7, 2016
Messages
2
Thanks for adding me to this group. I am in the process of reconditioning this exact band saw. Got lucky and found 2 of then on C-list. Figured I could get at least one working and the other for parts. My question is how to get the bottom wheel off of either of them. I know there is a woodruff key, but can't figure out how to remove it. Took both snap rings off, the the wheel won't budge either way. Can't get a bearing puller on it because of the 5 spokes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rick
 

Guyrlocke

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Jan 11, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Rick, I've got a similar vintage three wheel version of this saw. I was able to pull the drive wheel using a two arm puller. I was able to reach the arms through the spokes and grab the back of the hub. It was a little cockeyed, but it came off pretty easily. Double check that there isn't a set screw anywhere, even the back side, and if there is, make sure there aren't two screws in the hole. I've seen that before!
 

RegalX

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Jan 4, 2013
Messages
106
Location
Madison, WI
I am running a 1/2" wide Lenox bimetal blade. This bandsaw has trouble getting enough tension on a wide blade like this. Blade manufacturers indicate that 15,000 - 20,000 psi is the best tension range for bandsaw blades (at least bimetal ones like this, YMMV). I'll spare ya'll the math, but basically I need my spring to deliver about 200 pounds of force to get this much tension.

Again, sparing the math (PM me if you're interested in it), I calculated my factory spring has a spring rate of about 175 lbf/in. Fully compressed the spring can only create 150 lbf of tension. Also, springs don't really like to be used at total compression, so clearly I needed a bigger spring to hit > 200 lbf.

I chose a heavier die spring with a rate of 340 lbf/in that fits nicely in the space. Factory spring on the RH side below. This spring will be able to generate up to about 300 lbf before reaching maximum compression.

IMG_4778_zpswqrplygb.jpg

Where did you buy this spring? Part number?
 

bulwnkle

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Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
87
I picked up one of these for free this week. No base or motor with it but everything else looks to be intact and in good shape. I will more than likely end up building a base using oak but will have to buy/find a motor and pulleys and blades. Any advice on hp and pulley size would be much appreciated.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

CrankyOldMan

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
15
I recently picked up one of these as well, but haven't done anything with it yet. It really would be great if all of the old photobucket pictures could be restored. I'm dying to see what all the upgrades were!
 

Enigma

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Sep 2, 2010
Messages
861
Location
Florida
Love these band saws. Jziggy keep an eye out for me in your neck of the woods, thanks!

Can they cut straight rips? Did they come with a miter gage and or fence if so do you know the numbers to look for to get an original one somewhere?
Mines missing both.
 

6pony6

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Aug 20, 2013
Messages
225
Location
VA
Can they cut straight rips? Did they come with a miter gage and or fence if so do you know the numbers to look for to get an original one somewhere?

Mines missing both.



I couldn’t find any part numbers, but here are pictures of my original miter gauge and fence that come with that band saw.36796e8d47f5e4453bc954f6a695ac4d.jpg7f7fb6e0105cbdd0308fdf74286dcf75.jpg680a23c5685aad3e709e89bffd025782.jpg


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cgutierrez22

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Jan 5, 2013
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Location
Sterling Heights, Mi
They are aligned enough that they will track when free running, however as soon as I start cutting with it it jumps the wheels. Part of the problem I think is that the bearing and guide assembly is in bad shape / non existent. The story I got from my coworker who dropped it off was "The old lady I bought it off said it runs perfect and she'd just used it recently. She makes small wood crafts with it." When I took the panel off I discovered it had no tires at all on the wheels and there were lots of scoring / gouges in the wheels where she'd been running it for quite a while with no tires.


mTDQpRe.jpg
O0KNGMe.jpg
27423811017_88f5b9c820.jpgN8kImNK by cgutierrez22, on Flickr

I know this post is pretty old, but in case this comes up again I thought I would post about this saw. The tracking on this saw is done with that screw in the center of the wheel with the cover off. There is also a quick tension release that you can release when the cover is on. There is also a screw head on the top of the spring on the upper wheel that you can tighten once the tension is released. That may help with the tension you have on the blade. With mine i put on the rubber tires which are much thicker than the urethane tires to keep the blade centered in the guides and keep the length the same for the blade. The other thing i see is that your thrust bearings seem to not be spinning. Those should be loose, and there is just a ball bearing behind the post that lets is spin, and may be caked up with sawdust. They should also be adjusted back some so the blade runs in the round guides on the sides just behind the teeth of the blade.

Chris
 

lafester

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Mar 1, 2017
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2,191
Location
Northern CO
I recently picked up a pair of these and have been pretty happy with the one I have set up. The tires are pretty worn but I had no trouble putting on a blade and get it tracking. The stand came from a sander and then traded the mount with another member for the band saw.

J_QYcs2T1yBEVVeUBGXlA4Hl5dB5cYEE8vmsLazzT3K2EoWvuyzrj1InGR3r8WT8BhnA9BWei_Hn_KUeEC3qRnRwvKxDNHHW-APhCjQkmzQAzLwOHtbLMLLOkIKRg33jXuHT3rKQgRJtfRfeETOx2Eu5gU1LTRTqIKws94J8oWxXp0lF0oGNqJc5lGBTs-Tf6lPVhAyLfZuSDBpi5ZvNR4WnxGZyR9aREvmTh-OcEVNhFJoURBfVdgj1ne_ebqhk0PsybwY0jiY4mk6JG83oe5LZeGm7kltp3YrBixBQNsXEGbMW0Lads1hn90mfxR-5410biN6J7R4rDCxSO5PolM4PNwW2vRdXFlE4X2rv1Tp99kXVCPL5_6ps4pDSfmLBO_MvbLnLbxmr1y2CiuRjGuxqzGgc6_yAd51Hbex2mLsxF4kgPYNNRxjhZo00dGDerHWN9tL7dsHMNVgf7IhleFY-3xX502PAtoe7cNT8l3nmS_k8jLH52cUem7BJZ29h9LHizzKLKMh4Q-PwPxToMaFLqnvb7zbUcKSXcu9l_tsURiEaGoy18diK639T3nb0UNbYh0wWg0kXyAGGScU0h9-EyklVlErospDju0S6gyyv5adTuiuPegoHsOXZeJOWi7Fa8oBSza_ajFl6DZM1uMuawg=w608-h1334-no


FYI the fence and rails from the little companion/craftsman table saws is a pretty simple swap on to one of these. The rails bolt right on with no mods and cutting the fence to size is fairly easy. Hardest part is to cut and thread the clamp rod.

dLYZFulc0gE4rLAx82MlZDachfKPh7d3vbfDgJmC7dnMZEstxTHck6dAfvHN40fxtr4W0_9F_5KHnmmbbrSYDn0SDNQLLptojP-ks5R5940UamfCy-gA3J2wsEm0ygsB7tVWJU2NTY5CYjxhD0_GnYKvUCCZOOzRoWfS3mRtmaT70fCvAoUmroOlHzbEyoskpYX4E9ykjOLoKAzO8Z28PaFBlIVdHi4TX4tXGvXfKp3PTSGd65wm9OKHbcGDCiVubeFwg3wghplbu_j17r3IMwhdoaoo9SvD8Akoj43zTnf7GpJg8GF0h1XOjSMei3nvlyqFftRIVkRImXPfrWNu0sGa3z53FKqIhW8up2f2wwzuxj3iQuxaV9gggkiFK2bVFUV2MLDsKtEJk7dvlqcwwi8mgCiMHZvLlNOPidcNiKS5y9xzkNuDhDb9B00apSDy0Jr6yItJ4xG2zvUK4_fguBhjXX0NGJ32ziG_Pz1sUTDzuC7dy3N7OtwLejszN-FRoMXuysbcalFliLLZAWNh67Cv2hVC6kExzAoQaE025FQXYP-j1IwZLA0xWMkFuvlBKQdwxiVMoE6XjUmhoTHnZO1fAw4N5OWMxRJXs8737hej5bQKDfjjFA88w9yjfDL2kwTI8pxZqWAqgG5vrw-GEWECeQ=w1779-h1334-no


4QWiECu4tEHhoKmZKo1HMyrY2xQ7DqoWaYrLVgYZN4B0ixFGFSZtRTMBhmGHxt_aKytg5oyR4jY3Cqa1gw96yGxFSukkv56dmRv7eebsNdrUXSI7JdECooB6GPo4hSIZR_oHG7JXnFDQXdPgjp__uJNyUNUy6uThWCpVk1AbBQZYgnqWHf0VuIGDzGWyX1rJRMFp06Qt19hEj5k0IzgnF54RQ0lRgBpBWdKMFFE-kg2XUF41KdGNi4bdMRv14cCmNMp6YEFYs7WJmOAN0I1jmyuoy5CsnEW1nqxab7z-sXc1UlqKQUv3ALemLp-9CPq8aOT8lQjpKhw5HbBt6ITLPf1BAM9RPQv1W-Zc157xzNb2mC_lu-qIvdm3BMrn7RYRptnRlYy2SNp7UWODBrVVb0kRdXg28p0kRSsw2CcI_jBQRugTUta6eWVwjyl-STjVEdQCVULS40OI7U1fD_aItaDekxoxteuBiLLph3FhCVOS7H_bXAe5EXXylZT_z1gdzFO-XtS4cAgQFFeFy5NTRfnNWWEjT1ikXblB5gjM-hXZlNch4Gc4v5noSVmapYTDtfvHg_7lCy6EBHfxjGxE2xLR2Yght7G5YNzxiJ9qEl804m11gzr_7Nq7R389kXrOCAx2mHSR3-rXJ2zl-kSIF4Z74A=w2372-h1334-no
 

shortykorte

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Sep 1, 2014
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8,039
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
I just picked one of these saws up yesterday. I’ve had a reduction box for a year or more so might try this setup. Unfortunately the table pivot bracket is broken but complete so hopefully I can make one.
 

Jtull01

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Dec 18, 2018
Messages
1
Location
By home
Hi forum. I’m new here.
Through this threads inspiration, I have just about completed the restoration of my 103.24280!
My blade guard #53, is not an original and fabricated to short so it won’t allow the guide to come very close to the table.
Could one of you kind original blade guard owners send me some overall measurements, or pictures.
Also, what saw blades do you folks recommend for this saw?
Thanks in advance.
 

motorick

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Joined
Mar 11, 2015
Messages
47
Location
Jacksonville, OR
Just joined the band saw club! Once running, the band saw will be right next to my King-Seeley drill press. Missing cover knobs, motor mounts, and it didn't have motor. Have a 3/4 hp older GE sitting on my bench. Thanks to all who have restored and shared on this thread and others for the knowledge & inspiration. Here's my $50 buck starting point:
 

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FrankLee

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Sep 13, 2010
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seMI, 48317
FYI the fence and rails from the little companion/craftsman table saws is a pretty simple swap on to one of these. The rails bolt right on with no mods and cutting the fence to size is fairly easy. Hardest part is to cut and thread the clamp rod.

It's good to know that the table saw rails bolt right on.

Isn't the clamp rod threaded 1/4-20 on each end? If so, a piece of 1/4-20 all-thread cut to length should work well. The length of the oem band saw fence rod would be appreciated!

There are two styles of table saw fence with different length rods, so the dimension of the oem band saw fence rod may or may not be appropriate for all table saw fence conversions.

I found this table saw that came with two fences of slightly different designs. The fence on the left has a shorter clamping rod connected to an intermediate knob shaft.

 
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