Finally got that pin removed from the Prentiss 22 vise that I bought back on 6/25/2016
What did the trick was a suggestion on Garage Journal (Topop101 #2914 and CwazyWabbit #2917) to use a bridge clamp, cheater bar and to cover the pin with a large ratchet socket and clamp off that end on inside hole using a small punch to push the pin out. It didn't work immediately, but over the course of three days if finally popped out. So, messing with it since 6/25/2016 and with those great suggestions, took only 3 more days to get it out.
Once got pin out, was able to finally move the rear dynamic jaw a little bit and eventually removed it (another 2 days).
This morning, wire wheeled those parts and did some hand filing and now dynamic jaw slides into position with a tap from rubber hammer.
Mike
Nice job Mike! I just found a Prentiss #22 myself. It is a BEAST. (pics to follow). My rear swivel jaw pin was stuck like a duck.
STUCK PIN: If anyone has to deal with a stuck pin, please feel free to contact me. My pin ordeal lasted 48 hours, but, with
patience was able to get it to release from decades of stuckness. Hopefully not a long dissertation: I used PB Blaster from underneath and top. i used heat cycles with a MAPP torch. I used a magnetic engine block heater inside the casting, to warm up the casting around the pin. I used a lot of tapping from underneath as well as lateral tapping from top.
As mention above by Mike_P, The secret weapon was fabricating a small "jack post" from a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, and welding a nut to the rod, and welding a corresponding nut to a piece of 3/8" steel plate that spanned across the dovetails inside the casting. This is not what made it finally "pop" out, but I believe the ability to put the pin under upward tension during heating and cooling cycles was an important part of the puzzle.
The main issue I was fighting was that I was able to pool PB Blaster at the top of the pin but even overnight the PB would not penetrate. I used a dental pick to clean the ring around the pin/casting. Right after a Pin heating cycle, I tightened the little jack post mechanism another 1/4 turn and squirted a small amount of PB Blaster around the pin. The pin was still hot to the touch. I noticed some bubbling and it looked like the PB was actually penetrating! Using a drift and small hammer I tapped the pin from the top, with a slight upward angle. On about the 4th tap on the Pin, under tension, it literally POPPED OUT like a cork! It even made a cork-like sound. It went about 3" upward and landed back on top of the vise body casting.
The key to unsticking a tapered pin is getting a penetrating oil to finally flow. Upward tension, tapping, and heat/cooling cycle.
The pin was not corroded or rusted in there, either, it was fairly clean, minus a very thin layer of oxidation.
As Mike mentions above, then it was on to making the rear swivel jaw actually swivel both directions. More PB Blaster, a small block of wood, and lateral tapping all around the sides of the swivel jaw casting. It would move an extra 1mm each time it was tapped. After 10 or 15 minutes of this, it was swivelling a good bit and finally able to be removed. Once removed both mating surfaces were cleaned up, tested the swivel jaw back in the body, still felt some interference. Using chalk, I found the place where it was rubbing, and used fine wet/dry paper to smooth it out.
WELDING: It was missing one of it's three bolt hole mounting flanges on the swivel base.
Yesterday I was able to make a new mounting flange and weld it on. I have had good luck welding these old vises. I have welded Parkers, Prentiss's, Rock Island, and Columbians. I use Lincoln 1/8" 7018AC rod at 120Amps, which is mid range for this rod. For the Prentiss 22 swivel base, I have a woodstove in the work shop, so I placed the swivel base and the newly fabricated flange on the woodstove. The surface temp was probably at 450F. Let them warm up together.
Then welded, paying attention to heat control, NOT just zipping across the entire piece, but tacking in various places, top and bottom, to keep it stable, then running beads to finish up. After welding it was placed back on the woodstove. I then shut the inlet air to the woodstove and let the fire go out. This cooled the piece sowly over the course of the next few hours. I still had to use welding gloves to pick it up. No visible cracking, no signs of distress. Careful grinding, and it looks like it will hold.
That's where I am right now. Having extended family members over for Christmas Eve dinner, Visecapades will continue on Dec. 26th. I promise pictures! I just wanted to get this posted under Mike_P's to get the Prentiss #22 info on the same page.
Merry Christmas everyone!
need to get some cold rolled steel for the handle but used a piece of hot rolled to hold the balls while I polished them (that sounds weird) 
. Drilled the balls with 27/64 drill, taped to 1/2-13, threaded the rod 1/2-13, then used belt sander to get them cleaned up. Should have it finished this week and will show pics when done. I will probably use red lock tight to secure the balls. :
