penright
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I know I wanted LED lights, my first thought was 4 light 4 foot troffers converted to direct wire LED. Then I thought why not use normal sized screw in bulbs. For the same power usage I could spread them around. My challenge was in fixtures. I wanted the old barn style, you talking average $45 each. I found these at HD for $8. I am using EMT and 4" square boxes. So begins my delima. First let see if I can show a picture and explain the issues.
1. I had to use an octagon box to fit the holes. After I bought the fixtures, the hole for the wire is outside of the box.
I assume if I drill a hole in the middle, then I would be messing up the UL. Is this why they are so cheap? How should I fix it. Here is the instructions online (click here for instructions). I think they were expecting a gap in sheetrock and the ridge to give a gap for the wire to go into the center of the box. This does not seem right since now you have paper exposed to possible sparks.
2. Looking at the same picture, you can see that it has a ridge that is blocking my 3/4 EMT. I am guessing, I will need to go back to my 4" box with a mud ring to get the depth.
3. How my wires can I have in 3/4 conduit. I was not following the tables when I google it. I have seen discussions where it talks about circuit vs number of wires. I am pulling #12 and the breaker is 20 amp. Here is a overhead view of the lights.
{Picture was removed}
The square at the top is breaker box and at the bottom is switches. The elevation view would have the front (top) on a perlin (running left to right), the middle row in the peak, the back row is where the garage doors are, so I need to mount them on the garage doors tracks.
So I would like to control each row with independently. Most of the time it would be the peak if I just going in for something, then the front row. I could only see the back row on if I needed to work beside a car. So in one conduit I would need the power, then each switch leg for each row. How do you read the conduit fill charts? Do I need to run more than one conduit? How do I fixed that?
1. I had to use an octagon box to fit the holes. After I bought the fixtures, the hole for the wire is outside of the box.
I assume if I drill a hole in the middle, then I would be messing up the UL. Is this why they are so cheap? How should I fix it. Here is the instructions online (click here for instructions). I think they were expecting a gap in sheetrock and the ridge to give a gap for the wire to go into the center of the box. This does not seem right since now you have paper exposed to possible sparks.
2. Looking at the same picture, you can see that it has a ridge that is blocking my 3/4 EMT. I am guessing, I will need to go back to my 4" box with a mud ring to get the depth.
3. How my wires can I have in 3/4 conduit. I was not following the tables when I google it. I have seen discussions where it talks about circuit vs number of wires. I am pulling #12 and the breaker is 20 amp. Here is a overhead view of the lights.
{Picture was removed}
The square at the top is breaker box and at the bottom is switches. The elevation view would have the front (top) on a perlin (running left to right), the middle row in the peak, the back row is where the garage doors are, so I need to mount them on the garage doors tracks.
So I would like to control each row with independently. Most of the time it would be the peak if I just going in for something, then the front row. I could only see the back row on if I needed to work beside a car. So in one conduit I would need the power, then each switch leg for each row. How do you read the conduit fill charts? Do I need to run more than one conduit? How do I fixed that?
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