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Above 1200 Sq/FT Speed Metal Garage - rattle_snake’s 34x40 shop build in AZ

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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rattle_snake

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None of my beezwax but ..

Think you might should re-think the compressor shed

My close buddy owns
http://www.greenvalleycompressor.com/

he says, never bolt them down .. they vibrate and will crack the legs

and , its going to get hot as all get out in there, they need air to cool , especially that one you have .

I appreciated the feedback. We discussed this a few pages back and I took your advice. The nuts on the leg studs are now finger tight and rubber isolated so aren't going to apply much force to the legs, if any.

As for thermal, I made this enclosure bigger and taller to give the compressor head some more room to dissipate heat into the air. Convection though the open back will cool the enclosure (I'm assuming you see it has only 3 side of metal).
I have a few temp sensors I can instrument the enclosure with to compare with ambient, and can insulate if it makes sense (although even with hard data the threshold of 'too hot' is subjective anyhow).

Believe me, I thought too much about it. But that's what I do. It is same as theta J (thermal resistance) for a semiconductor package. Silicon die temp vs ambient, heat flow. Luckily my compressor duty cycle is very low most all of the time.

There are only a few options anyhow
1) Put inside the shop. loud as hell, and hot.
2) Outside with no enclosure. Full sun, hot, and wet when raining.
3) Outside in enclosure. hot.
 
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Big Dad

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I think the biggest issue (And in Arizona may not be since air is so dry) is condensation in the airlines ..

The more heat in the compressor, the more it turns the h20 in the air intol steam but, you might be alright
 
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rattle_snake

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Got the Mustang hood up over the door this weekend. It was a fun project, as the quality level could be much less than a real car. Instead of spending most of the effort on fixing little imperfections, I just threw some stuff together and painted it.
Dents? Fine.
Block sand? no need.
Plasma dross? leave it.
Let the paint fully dry? F-it, install it now.

I added a strip of metal to the front edge where the trim would have gone as it was rust and looked like ****.

I used the remains of the old compressor hut and a 10' pipe to suspend the hood. Used oil based flat black thought the HPLV gun.
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Mounting hardware is fully adjustable and pivots on 2 axis on both ends. I used 1/2 rebar with nuts welded on the ends to make a link.


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I think the support struts are up to high. They are at 45*. Would look better to have them raked back more.
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Probably fill in the gap to the wall as well. Lower brackets are just a L that used the hinge mounting holes.
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Wife was concerned about random automotive parts adorning her buildings....
but I got her approval.
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zmotorsports

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Hood turned out great Justin.

You may want to lower the angle a bit so the snow slides off.:bounce:

Oh, that's right, you don't have to deal with that ugly white ****.
 
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rattle_snake

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I love the creativity displayed in your postings, great stuff.
Thanks, it's even better when it doesn't cost me anything.
Hood turned out great Justin.
You may want to lower the angle a bit so the snow slides off.:bounce:
Oh, that's right, you don't have to deal with that ugly white ****.
I did build in 3 height adjustment provisions just in case! Supposedly photons (sun shine) have zero rest mass so they can pile up forever.
Great repurpose of the hood as awking (spelling).
I love that!!! :thumbup:
:beer:
Fastest awning in the west!
Thanks guys. I think it would look faster if the supports were angled back a bit more.
:3gears:
I though about removing the porch light and putting in a dome light on the bottom of the hood instead... maybe I should finish these cabinets first.
 
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rattle_snake

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I think i have convinced myself to do the bare finish on the cabiner door frames. I prepped a pair and it wasnt that bad. They are pretty dang tall! Hope to cut some panels tonight and test fit68ebd7bd8f0dd44ad0778460ccd5cc2a.jpg

The blank wall needs some art (aka junk) on it badly..
 

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zmotorsports

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I think i have convinced myself to do the bare finish on the cabiner door frames. I prepped a pair and it wasnt that bad. They are pretty dang tall! Hope to cut some panels tonight and test fit68ebd7bd8f0dd44ad0778460ccd5cc2a.jpg

The blank wall needs some art (aka junk) on it badly..

Nice. I like the bare metal look.
 

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rattle_snake

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Painted the main speaker enclosures this weekend. I chose to just put a few coats of red spray paint on them and not go crazy with a 37 step process piano finsh for 2 reasons:
1) They are shop speakers and will get dusty/dirty and stay that way.
2) The audio system is the only mission critical system in the shop and downtime must be minimized at all cost.

They already had a thin lacquer finish so I just sanded one last time, disassembled and sprayed.
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I also moved the right main speaker farther to the right, and rewired all 4 speakers with new wire. The speakers have been moved at least 10 times over the last year and half and I had used leftovers spliced together. I drilled a hole in the corner of the shelf for the wires to pass through to the amplifiers. I ran the wires from the mains up though the holes for the air piping, and had to modify the trim bezels because the guy that made them did too good of a job.
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I spent some time re-tuning the system to it's new speaker locations. The EQ curve is quite different that it was before for and sounds a hell of a lot better. I use an inexpensive mic and a RTA app on my phone. I am also using a bluetooth link instead of headphone jack and the frequency response is noticeably different, interestingly but not surprising. My phone did have additional signal processing on by default, so I turned it all off.
 

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rattle_snake

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Completed one of the three pairs of cabinet doors. I tried not to get to **** on the finish, they will get dusty/dirty and stay that way. That's the point of the door, to keep the stuff inside less dirty. I didn't remove all the mill scale or go for a mirror finish. I put a few light coats of satin clear on the frames to prevent rusty finger prints.
The panel is 1/8 white hardboard that is secured with a thin bead of silicone. I used spacers to set the depth from the front.
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The panel white isn't a great match to the walls but good enough. I like the way they came out but not looking forward to sanding the other 4. The cabinets I made for the garage about 2 years ago were just OK, so I guess these are a little over the top after some process improvements.
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OutlawDrifter

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Nice work Justin. My 1980s sound setup with 1 good functioning speaker would make you cringe! I plan to update, but it's good enough for now.
 

C_F

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Nice work Justin. My 1980s sound setup with 1 good functioning speaker would make you cringe! I plan to update, but it's good enough for now.

Haha! Mine is an old radio alarm clock.:D Sometimes I just turn on the radio of whichever vehicle I'm working on at the moment.
 
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rattle_snake

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Haha! Mine is an old radio alarm clock.:D Sometimes I just turn on the radio of whichever vehicle I'm working on at the moment.
I have done the same when the shop system was down. Both trucks and the boat have big bad audio systems. and the Cobra. and the living room. Even the back patio and barn have custom systems with subwoofers.
Everyone has their own priories. I like good whiskey too...
:rocker:
 
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rattle_snake

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Finished up the rest of the cabinet doors. The cabinet project as a whole was a lot of work, but I am proud of the results. They are definitely one of a kind. Not something you can just order on the internet. Still came out cheaper than buying equivalent decent quality cabinets, but no one makes anything this shallow anyhow.
After hanging the last door it occurred to me that my time here is temporary, and one day I will eventually move someplace else and leave all my hard work behind (to be ripped out and thrown away). No different than a vehicle project with lots of time/money invested I guess.
Maybe I’ve gone a little overboard… there are plenty of other members here in GJ land that went even farther and built some incredible stuff. So I blame all of you. :)
I’m contemplating powering though and finishing the last of the big projects vs taking a break and working IN the shop.
But I’m already tired of looking at the **** up on the shelf so I think doors for it are next, but the A/C should go in first… If only I could commit to a plan on either of those.

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rattle_snake

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I looked at some data from the temp sensor I hung inside the air compressor hut. In the hottest part of the day when it is in full sun, the interior temp is only 5-10 degrees above ambient. Less than I thought, and not going to make any noticeable difference. Had it been more, one could build the equivalent of a cold air intake. Essentially a tube from the filter to the outside.

The only issue I have, is that it is rusting too slowly.
 

zmotorsports

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Gate knob stop from a rusty automobile part. As opposed to a hole in the stucco.
Cobra IRS hub that spun bearingc7723fd75ed101940457758ce7bba33a.jpg

Great minds Justin.

I did something similar on my man gate where it opens up against the third bay on the house. I drilled and mounted it to the brick cap just below the stucco and put a rubber bumper on it so it wouldn't mark up the powder coating on the gate if it came in contact.
 

nsula_country

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Finished up the rest of the cabinet doors. The cabinet project as a whole was a lot of work, but I am proud of the results. They are definitely one of a kind. Not something you can just order on the internet. Still came out cheaper than buying equivalent decent quality cabinets, but no one makes anything this shallow anyhow.
After hanging the last door it occurred to me that my time here is temporary, and one day I will eventually move someplace else and leave all my hard work behind (to be ripped out and thrown away). No different than a vehicle project with lots of time/money invested I guess.
Maybe I’ve gone a little overboard… there are plenty of other members here in GJ land that went even farther and built some incredible stuff. So I blame all of you. :)
I’m contemplating powering though and finishing the last of the big projects vs taking a break and working IN the shop.
But I’m already tired of looking at the **** up on the shelf so I think doors for it are next, but the A/C should go in first… If only I could commit to a plan on either of those.

357389f815f15f6eae4aadcc095ed40d.jpg5ecadaa1b8d359be67181a5d05114996.jpg085143326d93706ecc228f978563b67c.jpg

Wow... :bowdown:

Those cabinets turned out much different than I imagined. Very functional, minimally intrusive to the work space. I am inspired to do something similar.

Good work man!

CT
 

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rattle_snake

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Thanks for the complements guys. I finally feel like I am getting close to the finish line on the building. The cabinet doors made the junk on the shelf more noticeable, so I had to prioritize the doors for it. The hard part was committing to a design. There will be 4x, 8.5’ x 2’ doors (similar to the cabinet doors) that will ride on 3’ V-rollers on a pair of 3/16 steel tracks setup in bypass style. One of the goals was to minimize all the gaps in the system so after lots of drawings and math I hacked up 200’ of steel.
The trusses run parallel to the shelf, and not close the edge where the doors need to be. I ended up going with 4 steel supports that span the truss gap and yield 5x, ~80” sections of tracks.
Each support is adjustable in the x, y, and z dimensions. No matter how careful the measurements are taken, things like this never line up and I knew the install would be a pain without adjustability.
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The lower plate is slotted to allow for track to mount mis-alignment.
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The assembled tracks are 33’ each. I put in provisions for a cross bolt in the center of each section, but the tracks are not as straight as I would like. I can fiddle with the length on a few to get them ‘good enough’ but would need to add horizontal cross braces to get them ‘OCD compliant’.
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rattle_snake

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Got a pair of doors hung this weekend. Other set are almost done. Overall the system has worked out well.
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nsula_country

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Now all you need is to power them with some drive rollers and install travel limit switches for proper indexing of the sliders and to prevent overtravel!

Freaking insanely cool!

CT
 
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rattle_snake

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You guys are a bad influence. I've done similar things at work in the past so those thoughts passed through what's left of my mind.

Here is the finished product. I left the subwoofers up on the shelf for now behind the doors. I think my next shop project is to finish and find a new home for them
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Glad I'm done cutting tube. I built 10 doors total each with 8 miter cuts. I bought a new Tenryu 66t blade while my evo was out getting sharpened. I think the evo product is a little better.
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rattle_snake

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I guess this puts me just 2 projects away from completion of the final phase, 'Phase 3' (let's not confuse this with 'done'). I'm in this a little over 2 years now and didn't think I would be as far along as I am.

Still evaluating and contemplating (analysis paralysis) A/C system configurations and details.
I have a thread over in HVAC land
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373241
if anyone has inputs or would like to add confusion and extra expenses..
 

Djui5

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Nice shop! I’m a local too, and know Ashman as well. If you have a “come see my shop” party I’ll be there.

I really like the tall cabinets.
 
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rattle_snake

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Nice shop! I’m a local too, and know Ashman as well. If you have a “come see my shop” party I’ll be there.

I really like the tall cabinets.

Thanks for stopping in. Cabinets working out good but the door inserts are coming loose so need a plan b for them...
 
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