stamanti
Well-known member
That ***** man, sorry to hear it.
Well it's happening...my 48x60 build
- Thread starter OH_Varmntr
- Start date
lakeroadster
Well-known member
What a shame.
The builder and crew had everything at their disposal to do the job correct, to print, and yet didn't.
It's a matter of pride... it seems that's a rare commodity these days.
Was there any county inspections done? Seems like the overhead door variance would have needed to be approved by the engineer of record.
The builder and crew had everything at their disposal to do the job correct, to print, and yet didn't.
It's a matter of pride... it seems that's a rare commodity these days.
Was there any county inspections done? Seems like the overhead door variance would have needed to be approved by the engineer of record.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
A shame is right. He actually still has my prints. But I also have a digital copy. It was just one guy who built it, had a helper a few times but I put a lot of time in helping him on my days off.
I guess you just have to double check everything no matter who it is these days.
No inspections around here aside from the township approving the property line variance.
No engineered prints needed, etc...the prints came from Menards.
I could build an entire house without ever pulling a permit.
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I guess you just have to double check everything no matter who it is these days.
No inspections around here aside from the township approving the property line variance.
No engineered prints needed, etc...the prints came from Menards.
I could build an entire house without ever pulling a permit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lakeroadster
Well-known member
In reality having permits and inspections likely wouldn't have helped anyway.
The inspector here that approved the framing never even looked at the drawings. He walked through a door way, stood in one spot, told me it was "a very nice looking building" signed the paperwork and left.
He was wearing slip on deck shoes, didn't have a tape measure or a ladder.
What's the purpose, other than revenue for the jurisdiction under the guise of "we're here to help"?
I'll admit bias. Before I retired I was a CWI and spent whatever time was needed on-site when doing inspections to insure what I approved in fact met the specifications.
Back to that taking pride in whatever you do thing.
The inspector here that approved the framing never even looked at the drawings. He walked through a door way, stood in one spot, told me it was "a very nice looking building" signed the paperwork and left.
He was wearing slip on deck shoes, didn't have a tape measure or a ladder.
What's the purpose, other than revenue for the jurisdiction under the guise of "we're here to help"?
I'll admit bias. Before I retired I was a CWI and spent whatever time was needed on-site when doing inspections to insure what I approved in fact met the specifications.
Back to that taking pride in whatever you do thing.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Spent some time relaxing this morning in a treestand. Big 8 pointer was bumping a group of 5 does around in the woods. 2 of them split off and went into the cut bean field 30 yards in front of me, and the other 3 stayed in the woods. The buck turned to follow the 2 in front of me and stopped just at the edge of the woods. 3 more steps and he would have cleared the brush but he decided to turn back and focus on the 3 does in the woods instead. Nothing like a good old fashioned adrenaline rush to clear your head in the morning! 
I built a riser on the scissorlift to elevate 16' long pieces of steel above my head on the platform so I could hang the ceiling by myself. The sheets of steel are 6' 8" above the platform which puts them at a perfect height for me to coax them into position.
Untitled
And viola! I wanted badly to get the first row done so I could transfer all the necessary tools/equipment I have in the shop beneath it so I don't have to keep maneuvering around it all. The last piece needs cut and installed and unfortunately my hands were about numb from the cold so I called it a night. Plan for tomorrow is to finish the first row, frame out an attic access, and install the rest of the plastic vapor barrier so I can somewhat retain heat in there. I should be able to get some more steel hung too. Oh, and sprayfoam is scheduled for Tuesday!
Untitled
I built a riser on the scissorlift to elevate 16' long pieces of steel above my head on the platform so I could hang the ceiling by myself. The sheets of steel are 6' 8" above the platform which puts them at a perfect height for me to coax them into position.
UntitledAnd viola! I wanted badly to get the first row done so I could transfer all the necessary tools/equipment I have in the shop beneath it so I don't have to keep maneuvering around it all. The last piece needs cut and installed and unfortunately my hands were about numb from the cold so I called it a night. Plan for tomorrow is to finish the first row, frame out an attic access, and install the rest of the plastic vapor barrier so I can somewhat retain heat in there. I should be able to get some more steel hung too. Oh, and sprayfoam is scheduled for Tuesday!
UntitledBoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Spent some time relaxing this morning in a treestand. Big 8 pointer was bumping a group of 5 does around in the woods. 2 of them split off and went into the cut bean field 30 yards in front of me, and the other 3 stayed in the woods. The buck turned to follow the 2 in front of me and stopped just at the edge of the woods. 3 more steps and he would have cleared the brush but he decided to turn back and focus on the 3 does in the woods instead. Nothing like a good old fashioned adrenaline rush to clear your head in the morning!
Oh man, I hate that! I've had that happen every time I've been out the last three years. But I would have taken a doe for the meat after the buck was far enough in the woods if it was public land.
Nice progress on the garage too.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Updates!
Awesome tools I've acquired for the job.
TackLife self leveling cross laser.
Untitled
Bosch Laser 65' "Tape" Measure with the obligatory smashed middle finger blood blister pic!
Untitled
After rehanging my 10x10 OHD because it was so far off, I moved onto the 12x12 OHD. This is taken off the top of the top panel. Yeah...
Untitled
Installing the ceiling and I'm reaping the rewards of the **** job my builder did. The trusses aren't parallel so this is what I'm dealing with.
South end.
Untitled
North end.
Untitled
I should have the ceiling done today, and tomorrow the sprayfoam guys are showing up at 8am to get it sprayed.
Awesome tools I've acquired for the job.
TackLife self leveling cross laser.
UntitledBosch Laser 65' "Tape" Measure with the obligatory smashed middle finger blood blister pic!
UntitledAfter rehanging my 10x10 OHD because it was so far off, I moved onto the 12x12 OHD. This is taken off the top of the top panel. Yeah...
UntitledInstalling the ceiling and I'm reaping the rewards of the **** job my builder did. The trusses aren't parallel so this is what I'm dealing with.
South end.
UntitledNorth end.
UntitledI should have the ceiling done today, and tomorrow the sprayfoam guys are showing up at 8am to get it sprayed.
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mikeyhunts
New member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2017
- Messages
- 4
Just read all 9 pages of thread! Great shop!
Sorry your having to deal with that ****.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry your having to deal with that ****.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
The buck I've been after for two seasons now was hit by a truck Saturday night. I just found out today.
14 pt scored 160ish.
Had him figured out last year but every time I knew he would be coming through it was always 30 minutes before legal shooting time. I was in the stand twice when he came through, just a silhouette and the sound of him on the licking branch and freshening up a scrape. Just couldn't get a pic or anything of him in daylight. There's a reason he was so big.
Gotta love it!
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
I ordered a temperature datalogger so I can start trending the temps in the shop just to see how things change as more levels of insulation are installed.
I also wanted to share a piece of networking equipment I bought that negated the use of ethernet cable from the house to the shop to provide internet access.
This is an EZ-Bridge-Lite wireless bridge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K683V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It basically acts like a wireless ethernet cable. Install the antenna on both the house and shop, point them at each other, plug them into the POE injector and router on both ends and viola! WiFi in the shop! Granted, this is the cheaper option at $200 and will get you 100 Mbps, which is fine for my middle-of-nowhere 10Mbps speeds. But it works like a charm.
Antenna installed temporarily on a t-post aiming at the house.
Untitled
The POE injectors on both ends are provided in the EZ-Bridge-Lite kit. The POE cable goes to the antenna, and the LAN cable runs to an ASUS RT-N212 router ($30 on Amazon) in the shop. They're just thrown about the shop at the moment but I'll have an enclosure built to keep them clean and cool once things progress a bit more.
Untitled
Untitled
I also wanted to share a piece of networking equipment I bought that negated the use of ethernet cable from the house to the shop to provide internet access.
This is an EZ-Bridge-Lite wireless bridge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K683V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It basically acts like a wireless ethernet cable. Install the antenna on both the house and shop, point them at each other, plug them into the POE injector and router on both ends and viola! WiFi in the shop! Granted, this is the cheaper option at $200 and will get you 100 Mbps, which is fine for my middle-of-nowhere 10Mbps speeds. But it works like a charm.
Antenna installed temporarily on a t-post aiming at the house.
UntitledThe POE injectors on both ends are provided in the EZ-Bridge-Lite kit. The POE cable goes to the antenna, and the LAN cable runs to an ASUS RT-N212 router ($30 on Amazon) in the shop. They're just thrown about the shop at the moment but I'll have an enclosure built to keep them clean and cool once things progress a bit more.
Untitled
UntitledNWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
***** to have to fix things on a new build.
Leaning towards taking a year to build my own when it comes time.
I have made it into a stand 2 times with my bow, the big buck made it through the youth hunt as my brother saw it Sunday night. Now just for the water to go down so I don't need scuba gear to hunt.
Leaning towards taking a year to build my own when it comes time.
I have made it into a stand 2 times with my bow, the big buck made it through the youth hunt as my brother saw it Sunday night. Now just for the water to go down so I don't need scuba gear to hunt.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That *****, sorry to hear you have to deal with that.
Keeping an eye on the contractor(s) is a PITA but sometimes something necessary.
The shop was clipping right along by the looks of it as well.
Keeping an eye on the contractor(s) is a PITA but sometimes something necessary.
The shop was clipping right along by the looks of it as well.
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Love that wireless bridge solution. Nice work!
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Yep we’ve definitely had our fair share of rain around here lately. I’ve heard 3.5” where I’m at. Good luck in the woods chevyguy!
Thanks z, just always need to be covering your own **** these days!
GLTHFJ60 thanks, it’s been working flawlessly so far. It’s range is 3 miles so 100 yards is a piece of cake for it!
The ceiling is finished now, except for the attic access opening trim.
Got the 10x10 OHD track hangers installed through the ceiling steel and braced in the attic. That allowed me to get my tractor out with forks on the loader and pick a few bundles of lumber left over from the build and get it brought inside to dry.
I should have more than enough 2x4 material for the interior wall girts, and 2x6 material to frame in the office/exercise room and whatever left will go into building benches and such.
Progress is being made. I have a bad habit of getting burnt out on one portion of the project and moving to another so I’m trying to stick to the job at hand and get things knocked out. Maybe, just maybe, I’ll blow the attic insulation next week.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks z, just always need to be covering your own **** these days!
GLTHFJ60 thanks, it’s been working flawlessly so far. It’s range is 3 miles so 100 yards is a piece of cake for it!
The ceiling is finished now, except for the attic access opening trim.
Got the 10x10 OHD track hangers installed through the ceiling steel and braced in the attic. That allowed me to get my tractor out with forks on the loader and pick a few bundles of lumber left over from the build and get it brought inside to dry.
I should have more than enough 2x4 material for the interior wall girts, and 2x6 material to frame in the office/exercise room and whatever left will go into building benches and such.
Progress is being made. I have a bad habit of getting burnt out on one portion of the project and moving to another so I’m trying to stick to the job at hand and get things knocked out. Maybe, just maybe, I’ll blow the attic insulation next week.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
I rented a Hilti hammer drill with a 2 5/8" core bit and made a nice hole for a 2" PVC sleeve to pass my water line from the shop to the house through. Some hydraulic cement and that's all good. It was a beautiful day to run a shovel today.
Finally got some time to finish hanging the 12x12OHD through the new ceiling. So the saga of the continual **** work my builder left me with continues.
I've never installed a garage door before, but I'm guessing if the top door rollers don't fit right, you adjust them instead of bending the **** out of them like this. The door was binding through the first few feet of lift.
I mean really, the flanges aren't even flush with the door.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZPD2Nw]
https://flic.kr/p/ZPD2Nw
Finally got some time to finish hanging the 12x12OHD through the new ceiling. So the saga of the continual **** work my builder left me with continues.
I've never installed a garage door before, but I'm guessing if the top door rollers don't fit right, you adjust them instead of bending the **** out of them like this. The door was binding through the first few feet of lift.
I mean really, the flanges aren't even flush with the door.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZPD2Nw]
https://flic.kr/p/ZPD2NwGLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Wow.
Robey5
Well-known member
Having pride in your work is unfortunately hard to come by these days.
I see that your "builder" left a mess for you, a trend in the building industry that has unfortunately become much more popular in the recent years.
...allow me to exemplify. I have been working on things in our (new) house. As I encounter things: I address them one at a time. The plumber that the "builder" used at our house was a complete slob, and left messes behind in places when something didn't quite fit. Because I have a critical eye, I notice these things and address them as I encounter them: in our master bathroom, there is a supply line to the toilet in the commode. The (slob) plumber decided that - because he drilled for the toilet supply line (through the porcelain floor) in a way that was a little too close to the baseboard, his solution was to cut the escutcheon with a pair of tin-snips to make it fit. This looked like ***, and: I am not nuts about a supply line for a toilet coming through the floor in the first place: I pulled the valve and was able to get the escutcheon to fit, no cutting, no cursing, and no gobbs of caulk to hold it in place (another hack move). It seems to me that doing things incorrectly takes more time, money and looks worse upon completion. I guess that once your "pot committed" to doing things incorrectly, you just have to remain stubborn about being a hack.
That said, sorry to hear about your contractor. It looks like you're making this garage as nice as you can with the mess he left behind.
I see that your "builder" left a mess for you, a trend in the building industry that has unfortunately become much more popular in the recent years.
...allow me to exemplify. I have been working on things in our (new) house. As I encounter things: I address them one at a time. The plumber that the "builder" used at our house was a complete slob, and left messes behind in places when something didn't quite fit. Because I have a critical eye, I notice these things and address them as I encounter them: in our master bathroom, there is a supply line to the toilet in the commode. The (slob) plumber decided that - because he drilled for the toilet supply line (through the porcelain floor) in a way that was a little too close to the baseboard, his solution was to cut the escutcheon with a pair of tin-snips to make it fit. This looked like ***, and: I am not nuts about a supply line for a toilet coming through the floor in the first place: I pulled the valve and was able to get the escutcheon to fit, no cutting, no cursing, and no gobbs of caulk to hold it in place (another hack move). It seems to me that doing things incorrectly takes more time, money and looks worse upon completion. I guess that once your "pot committed" to doing things incorrectly, you just have to remain stubborn about being a hack.
That said, sorry to hear about your contractor. It looks like you're making this garage as nice as you can with the mess he left behind.
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OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Thanks for the interest in the build guys!
From what I figured, I moved between 75-80 yards of dirt over the last two days. Given that my bucket capacity is roughly .42 yards, that's 190 full bucket loads give or take a few. I've got a lot of fill dirt laying around now.
This is my 50x64 parking area, average about 8" deep. The 4x4 concrete pad sitting by the road is the pad to sit in front of the front entry door. Hopefully I'll have this all filled in over the course of a few weeks.
From what I figured, I moved between 75-80 yards of dirt over the last two days. Given that my bucket capacity is roughly .42 yards, that's 190 full bucket loads give or take a few. I've got a lot of fill dirt laying around now.
This is my 50x64 parking area, average about 8" deep. The 4x4 concrete pad sitting by the road is the pad to sit in front of the front entry door. Hopefully I'll have this all filled in over the course of a few weeks.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
So when cutting EMT conduit with a cutoff wheel, there's always a burr left inside.
Untitled
A $3.49 burr bit chucked in a drill is all that's needed to clean them up.
Untitled
Lights mounted with threaded eyes rated for 95lbs each. Plenty.
Untitled
Light! Only have 5 of 20 mounted. It's going to be a lot of light. Temped with a 120v extension cord. Once finished they'll be wired 240v. I also picked up 3 of the industrial ceiling fans from Menards I'll be installing right down the center of the ceiling.
Untitled
Untitled
UntitledA $3.49 burr bit chucked in a drill is all that's needed to clean them up.
UntitledLights mounted with threaded eyes rated for 95lbs each. Plenty.
UntitledLight! Only have 5 of 20 mounted. It's going to be a lot of light. Temped with a 120v extension cord. Once finished they'll be wired 240v. I also picked up 3 of the industrial ceiling fans from Menards I'll be installing right down the center of the ceiling.
Untitled
Untitledstamanti
Well-known member
Looking good.
racestatus
Well-known member
that debur bit is awesome. ill need to pick one up
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Thanks, the bit is actually called a "rotary file". A tapered aluminum oxide bit would have worked great too but I can remove material quicker with this.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
More conduit runs, hanging lights, etc...
Cutting the flexible metallic conduit leaves burrs also. Here's where an Al-Ox mounted point comes in handy to deburr the cut ends. This is 3/8" FMC.
Untitled
This just makes it easier for the bushing to be installed.
Untitled
Bushing.
Untitled
Quick attach 3/8" FMC to 1/2" knockout fitting. The fittings say "Listed" but not specifically whether or not that is for bonding of the FMC to the light enclosure or junction box, so a ground wire is pulled to bond the junction box to the light enclosure. Redundancy never hurt anybody in this case. The EMT fittings are all listed for bonding so no ground wire needed in the conduit between each junction box.
Untitled
Ready to rock.
Untitled
Also, here's a little hoop I had to jump through when running EMT perpendicular to the steel ribs. Instead of mounting the boxes to the ribs themselves, I mounted them in the flats and used offsets to get the 3/4" EMT to lay flat across the ribs. Garvin makes boxes with elevated knockouts specifically for this, but they are $4.29 each compared to the $1.75 for the standard 4 square 2 1/8" deep boxes. The fittings provide up to a 3/4" offset but it's not all needed here.
Untitled
Cutting the flexible metallic conduit leaves burrs also. Here's where an Al-Ox mounted point comes in handy to deburr the cut ends. This is 3/8" FMC.
UntitledThis just makes it easier for the bushing to be installed.
UntitledBushing.
UntitledQuick attach 3/8" FMC to 1/2" knockout fitting. The fittings say "Listed" but not specifically whether or not that is for bonding of the FMC to the light enclosure or junction box, so a ground wire is pulled to bond the junction box to the light enclosure. Redundancy never hurt anybody in this case. The EMT fittings are all listed for bonding so no ground wire needed in the conduit between each junction box.
UntitledReady to rock.
UntitledAlso, here's a little hoop I had to jump through when running EMT perpendicular to the steel ribs. Instead of mounting the boxes to the ribs themselves, I mounted them in the flats and used offsets to get the 3/4" EMT to lay flat across the ribs. Garvin makes boxes with elevated knockouts specifically for this, but they are $4.29 each compared to the $1.75 for the standard 4 square 2 1/8" deep boxes. The fittings provide up to a 3/4" offset but it's not all needed here.
Untitled
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
20 Alphalite Slim Linear LED lights for a total of 288,200 lumens.
Motoman1100
Well-known member
Looks legit OH_Varmntr! Great job!
Deezler
Well-known member
badass lighting setup.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Haven't spent any time in the shop recently.
However, I have ordered a Sterling GG 120k BTU propane forced air heater with a concentric vent kit. Long story short, I didn't want to spend the money for quality radiant tube heaters at this time. My only issue with the forced air units is blowing dust and such around the shop. But with ceiling fans I believe I'm already going to be doing so.
If I don't like it, I'll sell it and put radiant tube heaters in.
However, I have ordered a Sterling GG 120k BTU propane forced air heater with a concentric vent kit. Long story short, I didn't want to spend the money for quality radiant tube heaters at this time. My only issue with the forced air units is blowing dust and such around the shop. But with ceiling fans I believe I'm already going to be doing so.
If I don't like it, I'll sell it and put radiant tube heaters in.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Nice build. I've got the same version of that heater branded Dayton. I highly doubt you will be disappointed, its just not that overly aggressive in airflow. Very comfortable. No more than a ceiling fan or welder cooling fan for sure.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Good to know jeep, thanks!
Bug I got the alphalites from www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bug I got the alphalites from www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Which light did you go with? Did you use or have a discount code? I'm thinking about the 4' 40watt, that's on sale for $22.00 I guess and hope that includes the bulb with it. I see they sell a joiner leads for about $4.00, is that something I would need if I want to hook (daisy chain) up to 4 of them together? Any info would be much appreciated, thanks.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Well well well...
Technological advances are supposed to lighten the load on our lives, thus reducing stress. Yet my iPhone decided to be iJunk and heighten my blood pressure and nearly turned itself into an iFrisbee and take a maiden voyage across the shop.
So, my Sterling GG120 (Garage Guy Series) propane shop heater came in.
Seems like a nice unit just by looking at it. I took some video to create somewhat of a detail video on the unit since the YouTube is seriously lacking just that. However my iCrap decided to freeze up and delete it. Repeatedly.
I find myself sorting through potential purchases and nixing many of them based on lack of this little detail...
This particular heater fit the bill to my needs based on being American made, being convertible to a separate combustion, and the price. The screened intake at the bottom right of the next picture is the intake for the combustion air. In the stock setup, it uses ambient air inside the shop for combustion thus inducing a negative pressure inside the shop.
This is rather counter-intuitive because you're effectively sucking cold outside air in to replace the warm inside air you've just used in the combustion process then displaced to the exterior via the powered vent. Being as I'm trying to create a tighter-than-usual shop envelope for efficiency purposes, this probably would lead to heater issues since according to the NFPA, it needs a minimum of 1 square inch of air inlet area per every 5,000 BTU input to function properly. 120,000 input BTUs requires 24 square inches of air inlet area for the shop. That's a 2x12 or 6x4 hole in your wall. Minimum, per the NFPA. What's funny is the 5" air intake that is spec'd per the units instructions is less than 20 square inches. Not sure what allows the manufacturer to bypass the NFPA requirement but oh well.
The base price of this particular heater was $929, which is comparable to heaters of other manufacturers. Problem is (and please correct me if my research is incorrect), heaters like the Modine HD125 ($1059 LP gas) is unable to be converted into a separated combustion like the Sterling is. Stepping up to the Modine HDS125 ($1471 LP gas) provides the separated combustion option, but that's a spendy option and still requires you to purchase the concentric vent kit separately. The Sterling concentric vent, pipe and elbow kits required to convert my unit added another $588 to my price. So I'm in for $1517. To get the Modine HDS + their concentric vent kit would be well over what I'm in mine for.
Technological advances are supposed to lighten the load on our lives, thus reducing stress. Yet my iPhone decided to be iJunk and heighten my blood pressure and nearly turned itself into an iFrisbee and take a maiden voyage across the shop.
So, my Sterling GG120 (Garage Guy Series) propane shop heater came in.
Seems like a nice unit just by looking at it. I took some video to create somewhat of a detail video on the unit since the YouTube is seriously lacking just that. However my iCrap decided to freeze up and delete it. Repeatedly.
I find myself sorting through potential purchases and nixing many of them based on lack of this little detail...
This particular heater fit the bill to my needs based on being American made, being convertible to a separate combustion, and the price. The screened intake at the bottom right of the next picture is the intake for the combustion air. In the stock setup, it uses ambient air inside the shop for combustion thus inducing a negative pressure inside the shop.
This is rather counter-intuitive because you're effectively sucking cold outside air in to replace the warm inside air you've just used in the combustion process then displaced to the exterior via the powered vent. Being as I'm trying to create a tighter-than-usual shop envelope for efficiency purposes, this probably would lead to heater issues since according to the NFPA, it needs a minimum of 1 square inch of air inlet area per every 5,000 BTU input to function properly. 120,000 input BTUs requires 24 square inches of air inlet area for the shop. That's a 2x12 or 6x4 hole in your wall. Minimum, per the NFPA. What's funny is the 5" air intake that is spec'd per the units instructions is less than 20 square inches. Not sure what allows the manufacturer to bypass the NFPA requirement but oh well.
The base price of this particular heater was $929, which is comparable to heaters of other manufacturers. Problem is (and please correct me if my research is incorrect), heaters like the Modine HD125 ($1059 LP gas) is unable to be converted into a separated combustion like the Sterling is. Stepping up to the Modine HDS125 ($1471 LP gas) provides the separated combustion option, but that's a spendy option and still requires you to purchase the concentric vent kit separately. The Sterling concentric vent, pipe and elbow kits required to convert my unit added another $588 to my price. So I'm in for $1517. To get the Modine HDS + their concentric vent kit would be well over what I'm in mine for.
I was looking at the same company you bought yours from. The SL-48401, 40Watt, at $22.00 each. Did you have a special number for a discount in the code box? I see for the amount of lights you bought, you got free shipping
I was wondering if I needed the joiner leads if I don't want to plug each one in to a plug like you did? I was wanting to wire 4 together then to the switch. Thanks for your time. Like to see the heater going in with lots of pictures.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
No discount code here.
It looks like the lights you are looking at have a 5' power cord, and also have a receptacle on the body of the light that another light will plug into. That's how you can daisy chain 4 of them together and plug in the first one and switch the outlet and it will provide power for the other ones. I'm not familiar with those lights other than the datasheet the site provides and they're kind of lacking.
I didn't install my lights on plug and cordsets, mine are all hardwired.
It looks like the lights you are looking at have a 5' power cord, and also have a receptacle on the body of the light that another light will plug into. That's how you can daisy chain 4 of them together and plug in the first one and switch the outlet and it will provide power for the other ones. I'm not familiar with those lights other than the datasheet the site provides and they're kind of lacking.
I didn't install my lights on plug and cordsets, mine are all hardwired.
revamped
Well-known member
Awesome build! Please share the link to that GG Heater!