trijeff
Well-known member
Thanks Sean. And likewise, nice work there.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Penn vise. Forged steel made in Austria. Seems similar, but not the same, to the Ridgid-Peddinghaus
http://www.penn.at/stahlgeschmiedet/produkte/schraubstock/
http://www.penn.at/stahlgeschmiedet/produkte/schraubstock/
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FMC1959
Well-known member
A couple of months ago, I saw an ad for what looked like a Prentiss vise. The pic was really bad and when I called the lady that answered new little to nothing about vises.
Being 45 minutes away, I went to see it. It was a Prentiss, but not good shape. Someone had replaced the jaws by welding them on a did a terrible job. The jaws did not line up when closing and there was a chunk missing from the side of the slide....surprisingly for a Prentiss, it did not have the crack in the slide!
She wanted $25 but I passed. The ride wasn't for nothing. I got these 2 little Smart vises, $15 for both of them. Nothing special, but OK for the price, and I like these small utility vises.
Being 45 minutes away, I went to see it. It was a Prentiss, but not good shape. Someone had replaced the jaws by welding them on a did a terrible job. The jaws did not line up when closing and there was a chunk missing from the side of the slide....surprisingly for a Prentiss, it did not have the crack in the slide!
She wanted $25 but I passed. The ride wasn't for nothing. I got these 2 little Smart vises, $15 for both of them. Nothing special, but OK for the price, and I like these small utility vises.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
FMC1959
Well-known member
For the made in Austria Penn vise Maico posted, this link has the specs for the various models.
http://www.penn.at/stahlgeschmiedet/produkte/schraubstock/technische-daten/
Kevin, not sure you would be interested in adding this to the spreadsheet. I can figure that the column "Type" is the model, column "B" would be jaw width and the last column "KG" is the weight (duh). The third column "W" looks like jaw opening. As for the rest, too small for me to figure out on the diagrams, but might not be relevant.
FMC1959
Well-known member
CRS, I am sure you know quite well that exposed screw vises are not the preferred vise of most and considered light duty, but I have always had a liking for them, and a few others like yourself.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
CRS, I am sure you know quite well that exposed screw vises are not the preferred vise of most and considered light duty, but I have always had a liking for them, and a few others like yourself.
I have appreciated them for some time.
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KMScott
Well-known member
Got it, Thanks FMC. The diagram is the bolt hole location for the base's.
I'm looking at a Reed 203 that is missing the swivel lock for the base.How easy is it to get that part? would I be able to use one from a comparable Reed as a replacement. Guy wants $135 but the vise doesn't look worth half that which I was going to offer if I can get the missing part.
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ThumBanger
Member
Picked up 3 Armstrong 78-060 Heavy Duty Pattern C-Clamp, 6-5/8-Inch at an auction for $25. In case my wife asks...what are these used for? I know they're for clamping...
Unruh
Well-known member
So recently I bought a vise. I asked some guys on here, BFBOB, Outlawmws, and Drivesitfar, for advice on doing some electrolysis. They were very helpful. Below is the before and after pics. She was in pretty bad and had a crack on the back slide.
I welded the crack and got it all painted. I saw this paint scheme somewhere on here and thought it was good looking. The handle still has a bend in it but she slides smooth and I'll keep working on it. The Swivel Lock bolt was stuck and it's handle would just bend when I tried to turn it. I cut off the end and used a rod and bar to get her loose. I welded a bolt together and ground it down for the new handle. My first time and I am really happy with the result. I have it mounted as far forward as I think I should and still can't get enough clearance to clamp something vertical without hitting the bench. Do I have it mounted wrong?
I welded the crack and got it all painted. I saw this paint scheme somewhere on here and thought it was good looking. The handle still has a bend in it but she slides smooth and I'll keep working on it. The Swivel Lock bolt was stuck and it's handle would just bend when I tried to turn it. I cut off the end and used a rod and bar to get her loose. I welded a bolt together and ground it down for the new handle. My first time and I am really happy with the result. I have it mounted as far forward as I think I should and still can't get enough clearance to clamp something vertical without hitting the bench. Do I have it mounted wrong?
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MayerMR
Well-known member
Looks good. Looks to me like you should have recently bought 3 vises!
Unruh
Well-known member
Those other ones were beyond my expertise.
Ktmrider83
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- Oct 18, 2015
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
KT that washer is for opening. The tightening is on the head of the main screw. Unless you try using it for "spreading" there should be no issues.
Fretters
Well-known member
That washer is never going to take any load.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nice job Unruh!
va.grouseman
Well-known member
FMC, I'm not too big on the open screw vises either, but I do like those Smart vises which as you know are indigenous to Canada and discontinued 50 years ago or better.---Not exactly sure what his number system was but then I guess there doesn't have to be order in everything.
Here's a couple of history lessons on James Smart's Co.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct....aspx?id=758&usg=AOvVaw1rtc1c81DlDyr0ahgJwyCG
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct....%20Co..html&usg=AOvVaw3xbffQwRV6NrIApsdWOc7V
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Razorhunter
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- Apr 25, 2013
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- 393
RG,
That swivel lock can easily be made or found. That little Reed looks to be in good shape so dont let the missing swivel lock discourage you. I probably would snag it up if you can get it for half his asking price for sure.
Fretters
Well-known member
Rear jaw face should be flush else a gnats past the front of the bench. You can easily enough put a slip of metal behind something to give you clearance for clamping vertically, so it's of no concern.
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Unruh, I declare it looks like you have at least 1/2'' clearance from the bench.---That is how I have mine mounted, swivel base flush with the bench edge.
Unruh
Well-known member
Thanks man! Thank you for all the advice with the electrolysis. I can’t believe how slick that worked.
mrwhite777
New member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2013
- Messages
- 1
View attachment 1
My Australian made Dawn 200. With BiC lighter for scale. Thing is so heavy the base ain't strong enough
My Australian made Dawn 200. With BiC lighter for scale. Thing is so heavy the base ain't strong enough
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Whatever you did Mr W, there is no pic.
FMC1959
Well-known member
I hope this is not a reflection of how long it will take for Mr. W to fix the attachment but he joined in Aug 2013 and today was his first post.
FMC1959
Well-known member
Looks like Mr Smart was very busy and entrepreneurial, thanks for the links VA.
Unruh
Well-known member
twertsy
Well-known member
Gents,
In case you haven't seen it, I started a Vise History Thread over in the Vintage area. In this thread I post as much information as I can dig up on VERY early vise inventors / manufacturers where I can prove the vise was actually produced. These are what I would call "Holy Grail" vises since I'm only posting information on those that I cannot find examples of anywhere online or have never seen. The thread is located here. Stop on by and take a look. Who knows, some of you avid hunters may have already found one or the mechanical descriptions I post may help you identify them.
In case you haven't seen it, I started a Vise History Thread over in the Vintage area. In this thread I post as much information as I can dig up on VERY early vise inventors / manufacturers where I can prove the vise was actually produced. These are what I would call "Holy Grail" vises since I'm only posting information on those that I cannot find examples of anywhere online or have never seen. The thread is located here. Stop on by and take a look. Who knows, some of you avid hunters may have already found one or the mechanical descriptions I post may help you identify them.
One thing on this 1740 I hadn't seen before (but only done maybe 8 or so Tradesmans) is that the pipe jaws are machined steel instead of the cast irons I usually see. Unfortunately a little chewed on one side from welding, but these are so much better quality than the cast I decided to keep them on there. Anybody else seen these before?
It's from Nov. 1996 if that makes a difference
WOW! ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW! EXCELLENT WORK! Those types of pipe jaws are the upgraded style you typically get from Nick or Kevin. I always take the dumpy original pipe jaws off these vises when I get them and replace them with good ones like what in your picture
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Outlawms, I actually think that washer is a stop so you can only open the vise that far.
gman007
Well-known member
Here is a very nice, interesting and different (see explanation below) Italian vise that I did not know about and that is NOT in the vise spread sheet either!
It is an Italian Steel Dovetail FZA vise (ACCIAIO means steel in italian).
While the vise is more in the bullet style of vises, there are several interesting features
1- It is made from Steel
2- The dynamic jaw is in the back
3- The actual screw is pinned to the dynamic jaw (see the video), while the handle and bolt which is really a long tube that mates with screw.
The guys doing the restoration has skills for sure (the only thing I did not like is when removing the old jaw inserts he could have just drilled the screw out). He machined new serrated jaw inserts and main screw collar among other things.
Here is the link for the video on youtube:
Has anyone heard, seen or read about this Italian vise?
PS
I re-checked the vise spreadsheet and it seems there is an entry for
FZA Eterna but COO is listed as ????? and the Model is given as
A/70-100 which might refer to 100 mm that is mentioned in the youtube video. The jaws are listed as 4" which also matches the 100 mm (=3.93701")
It is an Italian Steel Dovetail FZA vise (ACCIAIO means steel in italian).
While the vise is more in the bullet style of vises, there are several interesting features
1- It is made from Steel
2- The dynamic jaw is in the back
3- The actual screw is pinned to the dynamic jaw (see the video), while the handle and bolt which is really a long tube that mates with screw.
The guys doing the restoration has skills for sure (the only thing I did not like is when removing the old jaw inserts he could have just drilled the screw out). He machined new serrated jaw inserts and main screw collar among other things.
Here is the link for the video on youtube:
Has anyone heard, seen or read about this Italian vise?
PS
I re-checked the vise spreadsheet and it seems there is an entry for
FZA Eterna but COO is listed as ????? and the Model is given as
A/70-100 which might refer to 100 mm that is mentioned in the youtube video. The jaws are listed as 4" which also matches the 100 mm (=3.93701")
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Similar to the current FZA MA-6 http://www.agenziaforte.com/download/fza_mcp_morse/Catalistino-FZA-MCP.pdf
gman007
Well-known member
Thanks for the link, it is great. It seems there are series of models,e g FZA MA/6, FZA A/70 ETERNA, FZA MG/10 that are based on the same design.
KMScott
Well-known member
RG, I hope for your sake that they are not the cat paw style, those styles have a double lock set up, the teeth on one side and a radial angle on the inside. Careful dimensions they could be built. I wish I had the time to help with these projects. Take a picture of the swivel base showing the inside where the lock down is held. It might be a easy build.
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RHJO51
Well-known member
Hey All, I picked up a nice Parker 435 over the winter, I'm just finishing cleaning it and putting it back together. These Parkers are my favorite vises. I was wondering where I can find replacement pins for the pipe jaws. On my Parker 434 1/2, they are pretty long and the ends are bent over to hold them in. On this 435, I had to pound them out and when I put them back in, they are just too short to peen over the ends. Was hoping to get same looking pins. It's also interesting how much bigger the 435 is compared to the 434 1/2 even through the jaws on the 435 are only a 1/2" wider. Thanks for your help.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
While it will do that, if you take off the nut, and remove the washer, the screw will not retract the jaws open. It will just unscrew out. The nut and washer are also the "back lash remover" for mechanical backlash not related to the actual thread backlash to the main screw nut.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Dr. Scott, I think that one could be a candidate for hand filing a square headed bolt to the requisite tooth pattern/shape, given a couple of measurements and some patience.