The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Been watching the ads/auctions for a few years.. today i seen a Record No. 7 pop up on Kijiji.. Im in no position to buy it .. but i found it interesting. usually i see No. 6 and the occasional No. 8.. this is the first No.7 I seen. would be nice to add to the collection.
EDIT: just noticed there isnt a pic in the database. might be worth adding
from the ad.
Description
Vintage Record No.7 Vice
Width of jaws 7"
Opening 9 1/4"
Weight 80 lb.
EDIT: just noticed there isnt a pic in the database. might be worth adding
from the ad.
Description
Vintage Record No.7 Vice
Width of jaws 7"
Opening 9 1/4"
Weight 80 lb.
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Fretters
Well-known member
It seems Swedes are big on cylindrical vises! Here are two bofors/soderfors vises that are similar and again with a very thin support shelf. At least this support shelf has the "crease" on the sides which should give it more strength.
In the photo two there is something bolted to the end of support shelf that looks like might be some kind of improvisation ("Swedish Red Neck ingenuity").
That's the nut, which bolts to the underside of the support shelf. Adding a photo of that one finished, just so that no-one thinks it still has that manky paint job.
Nut bolted in position.
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dutchgray
Well-known member
The No7 is relatively rare, its the same opening and jaw depth as the No8 but with an inch lopped of the jaw width, most would have just bought the No8.
txlonghorn1989
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Picked up my first Reed vise today - a 104 1/2 R. It is far from perfect but the dynamic jaw travel is full and smooth. I'd be very interested to get feedback on how bad the issues are with it. The handle isn't straight as an arrow but it goes end to end with minimal effort. Not sure if the handle is original but the ends have been welded so now there's only one way to remove it. Not sure about the jaws either. They are smooth. Also, when closed they don't fully come together. There is about a 64th between them. Lastly, part of the base is busted off. How will this affect it's use? I won't be doing much of anything serious with it. Spent $50 on it. Hope it wasn't wasted.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
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gman007
Well-known member
That's the nut, which bolts to the underside of the support shelf. Adding a photo of that one finished, just so that no-one thinks it still has that manky paint job.
Nut bolted in position.
Fret
Thanks for clarification. BTW are those photos that I posted from your vise?
or you just happen to have the same vice in red ?Yeah its the first one Ive seen. About a year ago I picked up a Record 35P, I understand the 'P' models were non quick release, and there are No. 35 and No. 36 with quick release, Looking at my model it seems to have voids in the casting where the quick release mechanism would be placed on the QR models.. have you ever seen one of these converted to QR or know a link for parts in the UK? sometimes searching the internet in Canada is very limited , especially for obscure parts and info as such.. if you could be of any help please feel free to DM me in my inbox and i can get in touch with you from there. thanks!
Shiftless
Well-known member
Tex:
Those model Reeds are excellent vises. Too bad about the busted off dynamic support shelf. The ball ends on that handle might very well be original so you could grind off the excess weld metal to clean them up. The jaw misalignment is probably due to the missing support shelf. Somebody probably dropped that vise or banged a workpiece with a sledge hammer.
Those model Reeds are excellent vises. Too bad about the busted off dynamic support shelf. The ball ends on that handle might very well be original so you could grind off the excess weld metal to clean them up. The jaw misalignment is probably due to the missing support shelf. Somebody probably dropped that vise or banged a workpiece with a sledge hammer.
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txlonghorn1989
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Tex:
Those model Reeds are excellent vises. Too bad about the busted off dynamic support shelf. The ball ends on that handle might very well be original so you could grind off the excess weld metal to clean them up. The jaw misalignment is probably due to the missing support shelf. Somebody probably dropped that vise or banged a workpiece with a sledge hammer.
I was thinking it may have been dropped. I was having a hard time envisioning how you'd hit the vise on the underside of the jaw there at the base. Taking baseball swings with a sledge hammer? The PO was a machinist. He said he got it in '73 at a machine shop in Houston. It was busted when he got it.
Do these Reed vises have a manufacture date? If so where will it be?
I really do like the look and feel of this vise.
Fretters
Well-known member
Fret
Thanks for clarification. BTW are those photos that I posted from your vise?
Yup. Those photo's you posted are how that vice was when I first bought it.
That vice is dated 1921.
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dutchgray
Well-known member
There is a 34 as well
I wouldn't bother trying to convert, you would have to do a lot of work and to get the parts you would have to buy a complete vice. Its rare to see parts for sale separately.
The 35 is the rarest size of the 3 from how few I see for sale.
The castings were the same, they ground the P off the quick release ones, most of the time, so it would be possible to convert one, just not worth the effort (here anyway).
jonhdw
Well-known member
I thought this was a good deal, but turned out to be a great deal. Wilton 935 totally rusted out, or so I thought. The body and jaws are in perfect condition. The vise was never used at all. It was rusted shut and the handle is severely pitted but it cleaned up amazingly well. There is still a lot of original paint left. It’s a keeper for sure!
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gman007
Well-known member
John
Apart from the handle issue the vise is indeed in great shape. Wow those jaw inserts are in mint condition! Nice find
If you don’t mind me asking how much did you for it?
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gman007
Well-known member
Tex I love the R series and personally I think the R series are better looking than the older ones. I have an older Reed with meatball handle etc but would like to get my hand on one of the R series.
I do not believe Reeds have manufacturing date. The older ones have patent dates that can give an idea of the date range. I can not quite remember but the R series might be from 1950s.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
R series were 1942 and later according to my notes.
jonhdw
Well-known member
John
Apart from the handle issue the vise is indeed in great shape. Wow those jaw inserts are in mint condition! Nice find
If you don’t mind me asking how much did you for it?
Thanks gman007! I paid a whopping $40 since it was so rusty. And the foot is broken off the base.
t4runner
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Razorhunter
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Outlaw,
Are your notes regarding Reed vises posted anywhere publicly, or is this just something you've got stored away yourself? I've been wanting to ask the board here, where could I find Reed info such as history, design info etc? Any information pertaining to Reed vises I would be interested in. I've seen bits and pieces of very interesting info posted at times, but I have always wondered if this info is possibly located somewhere I could access? Webpage/etc?
Also, you mention the R series started in 1942. When did Reed stop making these vises? I realize Reeds are still made today, but when did the good ones (R-series) production stop?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Just notes to myself (if I remember to when I see tidbits) and I generally add them to my inventory lists in a Notes column.
Sorry, I don't have the full Reed story and I could have it wrong...
My full notes on Reed (such as they are):
1938: added adjustable pin that holds the nut in
1942: changed to hardened steel nut and screw (flat nose style)
1942: added adjustable collar "R"
1960s?: replaceable jaws, common casting for swivel/non'swivel
And a comment on 104's from someone here, (I forgot to get their user ID... - maybe search?)
The last model Reeds came as a 104-N (stationary) or 104-S (swivel); Same static jaw base. Which is what they stamped on the square next to the 104. 104-N can be upgraded to swivel base - it fits perfect on it.
Sorry, I don't have the full Reed story and I could have it wrong...
My full notes on Reed (such as they are):
1938: added adjustable pin that holds the nut in
1942: changed to hardened steel nut and screw (flat nose style)
1942: added adjustable collar "R"
1960s?: replaceable jaws, common casting for swivel/non'swivel
And a comment on 104's from someone here, (I forgot to get their user ID... - maybe search?)
The last model Reeds came as a 104-N (stationary) or 104-S (swivel); Same static jaw base. Which is what they stamped on the square next to the 104. 104-N can be upgraded to swivel base - it fits perfect on it.
twagler
Well-known member
Thought I would add my recently acquired Rae 204 to this amazing vise archive, since there are not too many of these made-in-Canada vises shown. Rae vises were originally made in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada but then later by a company in Orillia, Ontario called OTACO, but still under the Rae name. Of course, Rae is now out of business, same as 99% of other North American vise manufacturers.
A listing came up in the local on-line classifieds for a metal work table for $100 - I wasn't too interested in the table, but the vise bolted to the end of it immediately caught my eye. Also included was a set of Wilton copper soft jaws. I was a able to bargain the seller down to $80, so basically paid for the soft jaws and got a vise and work table for free.
Thanks to information posted in this thread before, I've learned that Rae made vises in 3 quality grades, cheapest was their consumer-grade Mechanics Vise line, next was their medium-grade Heavy Duty line, and top of line was their pro-grade "Heavy Chipping Vise" which they boasted was suitable for use in shipyards, oil fields, and foundries. The Model 204 is from this top category, as can be seen in the information from this old catalog, and weighing in at 50 lbs which is a pretty decent weight for a small 4" vise.
Since the Model 204 is of this good pro-grade quality, I thought it would be worthwhile to strip it down for a good cleaning and restoration, to get rid of grease & accumulated grime and especially to remove the fluorescent red "clown" paint job. I decided to use the "boiling in TSP" (tri-sodium phosphate method, which has been discussed in this thread before.
I made use of an old 5 gallon metal pail that I had on hand, submerged the disassembled vise parts in water, added 2 cups of of TSP crystals, and put pail into my outdoor fire pit which I normally use for boiling maple syrup. I boiled the parts for about 45 minutes, removed, and rinsed. It worked brilliantly, removing every spec of paint (2 layers of repainting, plus the original factory finish layer), even deep down into the pits and pores of the casting. No further scrubbing or wire brushing was needed at all to remove debris. Here are some of the "after" pictures:
Just need to re-assemble and decide whether to repaint or go "naked". I've purchased some boiled linseed oil, which I'm testing out now to see if I like it for a finish.
Thanks for looking,
Tom
A listing came up in the local on-line classifieds for a metal work table for $100 - I wasn't too interested in the table, but the vise bolted to the end of it immediately caught my eye. Also included was a set of Wilton copper soft jaws. I was a able to bargain the seller down to $80, so basically paid for the soft jaws and got a vise and work table for free.
Thanks to information posted in this thread before, I've learned that Rae made vises in 3 quality grades, cheapest was their consumer-grade Mechanics Vise line, next was their medium-grade Heavy Duty line, and top of line was their pro-grade "Heavy Chipping Vise" which they boasted was suitable for use in shipyards, oil fields, and foundries. The Model 204 is from this top category, as can be seen in the information from this old catalog, and weighing in at 50 lbs which is a pretty decent weight for a small 4" vise.
Since the Model 204 is of this good pro-grade quality, I thought it would be worthwhile to strip it down for a good cleaning and restoration, to get rid of grease & accumulated grime and especially to remove the fluorescent red "clown" paint job. I decided to use the "boiling in TSP" (tri-sodium phosphate method, which has been discussed in this thread before.
I made use of an old 5 gallon metal pail that I had on hand, submerged the disassembled vise parts in water, added 2 cups of of TSP crystals, and put pail into my outdoor fire pit which I normally use for boiling maple syrup. I boiled the parts for about 45 minutes, removed, and rinsed. It worked brilliantly, removing every spec of paint (2 layers of repainting, plus the original factory finish layer), even deep down into the pits and pores of the casting. No further scrubbing or wire brushing was needed at all to remove debris. Here are some of the "after" pictures:
Just need to re-assemble and decide whether to repaint or go "naked". I've purchased some boiled linseed oil, which I'm testing out now to see if I like it for a finish.
Thanks for looking,
Tom
flyingtpot
Well-known member
Prentiss BULL DOG No. 92
jonhdw
Well-known member
I also picked up this gem from another member a while back but forgot to post it. Cleanest Reed vise I’ve ever come across despite FedEx’s best attempts to destroy it in shipping! (Always insure your vise if you ship FedEx, it may not make it in one piece). Reed 403-1/2R.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Jon:
That Reed double swiveller certainly is a gem! Nice score
Twagler:
Welcome to the forum.
With such a thorough job of removing all the paint, and an evidently damage free surface, I think the best course of action would be naked with BLO.
FTP:
Great looking Prentiss. Did you do all that work! If so...
What color is that?
That Reed double swiveller certainly is a gem! Nice score
Twagler:
Welcome to the forum.
With such a thorough job of removing all the paint, and an evidently damage free surface, I think the best course of action would be naked with BLO.
FTP:
Great looking Prentiss. Did you do all that work! If so...
What color is that?
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davethorik
Well-known member
eddieK
Well-known member
Prentiss BULL DOG No. 92
Nice work. I really like the color. While the jaws look new they appear to be off somewhat, was the top of the static and dynamic ground down because of previous abuse?
mtgrizzlymn69
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How can I go about making this vise usable again? Need a lot of help on this one guys. It weights 170 pounds
you can see the front jaw is broke off I have that piece but there is a piece under jaw that’s broke and gone. Everything on vice is great except this. Not sure where to start. Was told the jaw is steel vise is cast they were forged in I have no idea
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you can see the front jaw is broke off I have that piece but there is a piece under jaw that’s broke and gone. Everything on vice is great except this. Not sure where to start. Was told the jaw is steel vise is cast they were forged in I have no ideaSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
My guess is you have a Prentiss # 22 Look on top of the housing at the rear edge just behind the swivel, there should be a number stamped in.
There would be several ways to replace the jaws. I bet Kevin Scott will see this and give you a better explanation than I can.
There would be several ways to replace the jaws. I bet Kevin Scott will see this and give you a better explanation than I can.
jonhdw
Well-known member
Yeah, I thought I’d use it more, but it’s too nice. I don’t want to mess it up and I don’t like having things I don’t use.
KMScott
Well-known member
MT, I have repaired a break like yours but what makes yours a little harder is that it is the Dynamic jaw support, having that long square slider will give you fits. Pocketing the break area and adding a new piece will help in the jaw support. The example I showed is on a C style jaw but this method should work for yours to. Brazing the insert in place is a step better then using a screw only.
Looks like your jaws are cast in place by the pic's, so machining a shelf to accept a set of replaceable jaws is first on your list. Should replace both sides. I added one pic of how I remove the hard jaw inserts on my mill.
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mtgrizzlymn69
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Thankyou. I hope my mill is large enough, not sure if it is.
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mtgrizzlymn69
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By looking at I think the rear jaw assembly is removable from the vise in one big section. I’ll start on front first try not to mess it up.
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Razorhunter
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Outlaw, thanks for posting the Reed notes man.
Speaking of Reeds. Here's a 107 a guy posted on another forum. Anyone ever seen this spindle nose before? Maybe its old news to you guys, but I've honestly never seen a Reed like this. I've only ever seen Reed spindles with either the old school Art-deco style, spherical spindle nose, OR the newer snub nose style spindle as seen on the R series vises.
This Reed however, seems to be different. At least to any other Reed I've ever seen. The neck on the spindle behind the nose is longer. Is this just an older Reed I've not seen too many of or what? Check it out and tell me whats up with this 107 guys.
Speaking of Reeds. Here's a 107 a guy posted on another forum. Anyone ever seen this spindle nose before? Maybe its old news to you guys, but I've honestly never seen a Reed like this. I've only ever seen Reed spindles with either the old school Art-deco style, spherical spindle nose, OR the newer snub nose style spindle as seen on the R series vises.
This Reed however, seems to be different. At least to any other Reed I've ever seen. The neck on the spindle behind the nose is longer. Is this just an older Reed I've not seen too many of or what? Check it out and tell me whats up with this 107 guys.
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GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
It is the same spindle as the one installed on a split nut version. I thought mine had a replacement but another GJ member has one also.
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meatsis
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AngryBeaver
Well-known member
I haven’t bought any vises in a while. Saw this pop up last night at midnight. Told him I’d take it on my lunch hour no questions asked. I assumed it was a C1 from the one pic. Turns out it was a c2. Score.
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flyingtpot
Well-known member
FTP:
Great looking Prentiss. Did you do all that work! If so...
What color is that?
Thanks Shiftless. The color is burgundy to match/mate with Snap-on cranberry tool storage units. I did the complete restoration, less the jaws machining. The jaws are KMScott creations.
The jaws need to be set (squared to the mounting pads) and secured.
Thanks for the comments on this vise Outlaw + everyone. Good observation on the 4 bolts on the swivel. I've found by snugging up the 4 rotation bolts you only have to tighten one to lock it down unless you're really torquing on something. The po was a welder fabricator on the shipyards and used this in his home shop on a 4'x8' bench when I got it. It appears it was used but not abused. I like it for all the clearance around the jaws but I've never owned one of these designs. Must admit I'm torn over letting it go or keeping it.
Fretters
Well-known member
You ought keep it. Chances of ever finding another of those is slim to none.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Get, is that reed you posted camoed? 
on Frett's comment.
on Frett's comment.GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
That is the outdoors look that most old vises seem to have. I will see if I can make it a little more visible. The Wilton next to it already got an electrolysis bath and a new coat of paint.. 