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Above 1200 Sq/FT Speed Metal Garage - rattle_snake’s 34x40 shop build in AZ

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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rattle_snake

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Interesting. The one in the Amazon link appears to be a WiFi connected IR blaster, for $130... With mixed reviews. At least someone tried to create a product to interface with room ACs and Minis.

Once you get it setup, the scheduler will be awesome.

Could you hardwire a scheduling thermostat to the unit instead of the remote only option?

CT
No can't use regular thermostats with just a on/off style control wire(s). This is one drawback of the ductless mini's, but at least there are other options. I was able to get OEM interface for same price.

I did finally get the wifi interfaces to connect. It was the exact reason I hate doing IT stuff;

I did the same exact sequence 6 times and the last one worked whereas the previous 5 failed.

Doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different outcome is the definition of insanity. Often that is the only path forward as there may not be any options to change.
I'll blame my flaky powerline network. Going to have to upgrade the network in the home and to shop with cat 5 at some point, like next winter, when it's nice up in the attic.

It looks like the mini's I have do not support the power consumption/energy meter feature in the Daikin app. I pulled the sub panel cover and measured current to the A/Cs. In auto mode (at low speed) at 105+ degree outdoor temps, each unit uses just 2.2A@230V. When they are at setpoint and only indoor fan is on, they use 0.6A. For comparison my 22x, double T8 lighting uses 9A@120V. So both A/Cs on low use less power than the lights.
Max power consumption at 18K BTU is spec'd at 6A (1.4kW)

The units cycled on lowest speed on a decently hot day.
20180506_125925.jpg

I put a temp sensor on the other side of the building near the overhead doors, it read +2 degrees so not to bad in static conditions.
 
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jimmie jam

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Justin, you have serious, mad, dope skills - I'm impressed. Your project looks really great. Very inspirational I must say!
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, you have serious, mad, dope skills - I'm impressed. Your project looks really great. Very inspirational I must say!
Thanks Jimmie. Glad to be an inspiration to you. I'm very fortunate to have been able to build this shop. Not sure I have achieved full on 'dope' skills, but there are those who have over in the fab forum. I consider myself more of a hack of many trades.
:lol:
 
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rattle_snake

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The great subwoofer project is finally getting going again. Finalized the design and have been collecting some of the items needed. Going to have a motorhead theme and hang from ceiling. The SS pipe will be port extensions similar to the boat's exhaust.
 

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shade

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No can't use regular thermostats with just a on/off style control wire(s). This is one drawback of the ductless mini's, but at least there are other options. I was able to get OEM interface for same price.

I did finally get the wifi interfaces to connect. It was the exact reason I hate doing IT stuff;

I did the same exact sequence 6 times and the last one worked whereas the previous 5 failed.

Doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different outcome is the definition of insanity. Often that is the only path forward as there may not be any options to change.
I'll blame my flaky powerline network. Going to have to upgrade the network in the home and to shop with cat 5 at some point, like next winter, when it's nice up in the attic.

It looks like the mini's I have do not support the power consumption/energy meter feature in the Daikin app. I pulled the sub panel cover and measured current to the A/Cs. In auto mode (at low speed) at 105+ degree outdoor temps, each unit uses just 2.2A@230V. When they are at setpoint and only indoor fan is on, they use 0.6A. For comparison my 22x, double T8 lighting uses 9A@120V. So both A/Cs on low use less power than the lights.
Max power consumption at 18K BTU is spec'd at 6A (1.4kW)

The units cycled on lowest speed on a decently hot day.
20180506_125925.jpg

I put a temp sensor on the other side of the building near the overhead doors, it read +2 degrees so not to bad in static conditions.

You ever need IT help let me know.
 
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rattle_snake

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Made some progress on subwoofer enclosure '1'. Got it stripped down and an odd shaped hole cut for a proper speaker terminal. Box '2' is still in service proving the low freqs necessary for any type of work in shop (decent tunes are mandatory).

Filled all the screw holes with a few passes of filler and glaze, routed all the edges, and a final MDF sand job. Primed with OG Kilz then sanded flat in prep for color coat.

Going to stick with Rustolem (although their spray can **** ***) sunrise red like the mains and rack. Conveniently, it is also available in quarts at local HD so I made the questionable choice to stick with their **** product again.

Being lazy and not wanting to clean HVLP gun 4 times per box, I thinned and rolled the 1st coat which came out OK. Plan to sand and re-coat with spray can, will see how that goes.

Had luck with similar process using quart/spray can of polyurethane on wood projects.

The goal is to NOT spend excessive time and energy on a perfect mirror finish paint job, as they will get dirty in the shop environment.
 

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wasfast

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San Diego CA
I built a large PA system and painted all the boxes bright red (why do they have to be black?). One of my sound system buddies called it "The Speakers from Hell":)
 
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rattle_snake

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I built a large PA system and painted all the boxes bright red (why do they have to be black?). One of my sound system buddies called it "The Speakers from Hell":)

Same reason all band t-shirts have to be black...
Nice guitar build in your thread.

Paint job turned out OK. The spray over roll method worked well. Not perfect by any means but sufficient for the application.

I want to be able to adjust the angle the boxes hang at. To do so I need to be able to move the mounting point relative the the CoG. Sounds like a perfect application for uni strut! Since they will be fairly high up I also wanted to built up the mount so it can be seen. What better to use than a carb spacer? I drilled out the spacer's holes to use 3/8 spring nuts and long bolts to connect the lift plate to the uni stut itself (don't trust the cheap aluminum-ish spacer flanges).

Cut the vents/ports down by 6" and reinstalled/sealed. The port extensions will make up the length. Having a friend CNC some mounting rings for the extensions. I cut and deburred the pipe.

Still have to come up with mounting solution. Was going to use simple & overly large I-beam but that was ruined completely after seeing the bomber rig...
Thanks OutlawDrifter, thanks...

If I only had a decent tubing bender and dies...
 

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rattle_snake

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Haha, glad I could overcomplicate things!
Ya should delay completion and blow out the budget, thanks!

I like those speakers! How is the AC working?? My garage is at 74.
Thanks the audio system is quite impressive so now it can look the part too.

A/C is rockin' maybe even better than a cold beer.

40* split with the units just idling along... Feel bad for those poor suckers suffering out in there.
 

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AZpilot

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Mesa, AZ
Ya should delay completion and blow out the budget, thanks!


Thanks the audio system is quite impressive so now it can look the part too.

A/C is rockin' maybe even better than a cold beer.

40* split with the units just idling along... Feel bad for those poor suckers suffering out in there.

That is a great picture. I dread having to pop the garage door open for ANY reason. In fact I locked it on the inside so my family cannot open it!
 

nsula_country

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Northwestern Louisiana
Ya should delay completion and blow out the budget, thanks!


Thanks the audio system is quite impressive so now it can look the part too.

A/C is rockin' maybe even better than a cold beer.

40* split with the units just idling along... Feel bad for those poor suckers suffering out in there.

119* @ 11%??

Try 100* at 5pm @ 87%! Choking on humidity here!

Saharan sands dust clouds are heating up the Southeast from LA to TX and into OK. Houston, TX up to Dallas, TX are most affected... Smog and pollutants there compounding the issues. But I understand, I have been West... "It's a dry heat!"

40* split is awesome. Most equipment design temp is about 95*.

CT
 
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rattle_snake

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Hung the subwoofers in their permanent home this weekend. Took a few years to find time to finish them.

Being that marine exhaust tips are very expensive, and I'm cheap, I build my own. The exhaust tips are extensions to the speaker port tubes.
I had a friend who has a CNC water jet cut out a set of flanges from 3/16 SS plate. After a half *** polish job I tig'd them to some slash cut 4" SS tubing at pi/8 radian increments. They came out good enough so the internal ports got cut down to compensate and speakers re-assembled.

I decided against a super elaborate mounting structure and instead went the lazy/quick/easy route and used Uni strut. Creative and artistic failure, but mechanically sufficient.
The Uni structure allows independent X and Y adjustability and the chain to set Z height and rotation. The uni strut/carb flange on the speaker itself allows the Z plane to tilt.
The clevises look cool but the cotter pins rattle and needed some attention.

I figured plain speaker wire just wasn't cool enough, so I made some covers out of old air hose and stainless braid sleeve to look like a fuel line or something. I like how they came out.

I was noticing the similarity of the port extensions to a hypodermic needle, and how badly they could damage me so I waited and got some help hoisting them into position. Using a rope over the uni, the 1st one went up fine. The rope broke on the 2nd, at the worst possible time. We managed to 'catch' the 60 lb beast with only minor damage to myself and the speaker. Could have been much worse, lesson learned...

So the system is still not 'done'. I plan to move the main speakers back onto the same (south) wall as the subwoofers suspended from the uni strut structure. Probably put the TV where the flag is now under the air handler.

So a lot of work that doesn't improve audio performance or productivity of the shop itself, but I had fun and it's one-of-a-kind.
 

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rattle_snake

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Great work but you left out the most important bit of information.

How does it sound?

:beer:

Thanks.
Well it sounds Bad *** just like it did before. The subwoofers were behind the sliding doors on the adjacent shelf. So basically the same location and setup. I just made them pretty and visible in a manly fashion.
 
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rattle_snake

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Fine execution, even without a bomber rig. Sometimes less is more!

Yes, thanks. but.... wish I had the time to make something more elaborate. The Uni has its advantages. I have to pick my battles, time with family, money pit maintenance, etc. Almost bough a tubing bender and die sets, which would have been your fault.

Sick design and installation Justin.:bowdown::bowdown:

Thanks Mike. been on my todo list for a long time. Didn't want to waste floor space with them, not all of us can have a giant shop like some people.
:)


Can't decide on how to hang the main speakers. Lots of ideas but nothing worth perusing yet. Have to be patient and wait for the right mounting solution to pass though what's left of my brain.

A proper welding table is next on my list. Been watching CL for tables and/or plate for a top.
 

zmotorsports

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Thanks Mike. been on my todo list for a long time. Didn't want to waste floor space with them, not all of us can have a giant shop like some people.
:)

Ha ha. My shop floor space is shrinking with all of my son's Jeep parts collecting. I think I found out my shop isn't big enough.:lol_hitti
 

zmotorsports

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NO! Say it isn't so!!!! :willy_nil


:D





:beer:

I've been teasing my son lately telling him I should have built a bigger shop due to all of his parts. The size is actually quite nice. At times too big, like when I have my Jeep parked in front of the fabrication/machining portion of the shop and have to keep walking back and forth to the toolbox because my son has both of his vehicles torn apart in the shop. I think I put well over 10k steps on that day between my Jeep and my toolbox.

That's ok though, I love having him still wanting to spend time in the shop with me and hope that never ends.:bounce:
 

OutlawDrifter

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Almost bough a tubing bender and die sets, which would have been your fault.

And I'm ok with that. Anytime I can help a fellow procure more awesome, it's a win!

Once I get some time to post pictures on my recent conquests, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the latest addition, I have a feeling.
 

Duker

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Livingston, TX
Made some progress on subwoofer enclosure '1'. Got it stripped down and an odd shaped hole cut for a proper speaker terminal. Box '2' is still in service proving the low freqs necessary for any type of work in shop (decent tunes are mandatory).



Filled all the screw holes with a few passes of filler and glaze, routed all the edges, and a final MDF sand job. Primed with OG Kilz then sanded flat in prep for color coat.



Going to stick with Rustolem (although their spray can **** ***) sunrise red like the mains and rack. Conveniently, it is also available in quarts at local HD so I made the questionable choice to stick with their **** product again.



Being lazy and not wanting to clean HVLP gun 4 times per box, I thinned and rolled the 1st coat which came out OK. Plan to sand and re-coat with spray can, will see how that goes.



Had luck with similar process using quart/spray can of polyurethane on wood projects.



The goal is to NOT spend excessive time and energy on a perfect mirror finish paint job, as they will get dirty in the shop environment.



Justin, the subs look great. I have been using a small job site radio for tunes during my shop build but I think you have successfully created enough of an itch for me to move the sound project higher up the project list! I built a coffee table and two pedestal subs for a designer a few years ago and have been wanting to build something like that for myself. Thanks for the inspiration! Now I just need get off my a$$ and move some more equipment into the shop!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, the subs look great. I have been using a small job site radio for tunes during my shop build but I think you have successfully created enough of an itch for me to move the sound project higher up the project list! I built a coffee table and two pedestal subs for a designer a few years ago and have been wanting to build something like that for myself. Thanks for the inspiration! Now I just need get off my a$$ and move some more equipment into the shop!

Thanks Duke. Glad I could help pile some more onto you todo list, as if you're not busy enough with all the current buildings and projects.
:)

Justin,

What's your handle on SVTPerformance? Great job on the shop and glad to see a fellow Terminator on here.

Thanks Jimmy. Same handle as here, rattle_snake, which is where I started using it.
Car got a clay/wax job last night up on the lift in the cool A/C, man am I spoiled!
:D
 

sleek98

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Thanks Jimmy. Same handle as here, rattle_snake, which is where I started using it.
Car got a clay/wax job last night up on the lift in the cool A/C, man am I spoiled!
:D

I have spent so much time getting the garage ready I have basically wasted this year with the car. But I cant wait to be able to wash detail and wax the car in the AC in a couple weeks.
 

Jo3l

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Very jealous of the AC! I pretty much have to get up at 5 AM to not die in Peoria right now.
 
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rattle_snake

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I have spent so much time getting the garage ready I have basically wasted this year with the car. But I cant wait to be able to wash detail and wax the car in the AC in a couple weeks.

It's a game changer for sure. You'll love it. In the past I would try to schedule vehicle maintenance and shop projects to not land in the summer months. Now it doesn't matter which can be a big relief at times.

Very jealous of the AC! I pretty much have to get up at 5 AM to not die in Peoria right now.

Haha that is a good way to describe it... Glad I'm not a roofer or laying asphalt!
 
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rattle_snake

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With the comfortable cool breezes in the shop I even got some unsolicited help on the wax job! My older daughter has my OCD and want's everything clean and in it's place.

Being and old man past 40 I'd rather just put the car up on the lift to make the job way easier and almost enjoyable.
:beer:

The drag radials are about shot now with only 2800 miles... but why have all that power if you don't use it?
:3gears:

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rattle_snake

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Moved the main speakers back over to the south wall next to the sub woofers. The uni structure on the ceiling made it easy to mount with another set of cross bars. Instead of chain I used 1/2" all-thread and fab'd some rod ends out of 3/8 plate welded to a nut. The clevises are good for easy disconnect but allow rotation so I used some clear tubing to keep them aligned.
A piece of uni strut on the top of the speakers (similar to the subs) is used to adjust Z axis tilt. The boxes got disassembled (again) and another 2 coats of paint. I added the additional wiring inside the SS hoses of the subs.

All the adjustability of the system is great, but if you suffer from OCD it is a curse. I could spend hours making unnecessary minute adjustments that no one would ever notice. So I just eyeballed everything and forbid measurement equipment up the ladder. For now...

Moved the flag and hung the TV below air handler. Don't use it much but it was free. The location above the bench didn't work well because of the lighting right above it and grinding sparks.

Stepping back to take a look at my beastly creation I had to ask myself 'why'? Why must I spend my time and money on such an over the top installation of some old used equipment? Not sure but probably the same reason I think everything needs more power and bigger tires.

I re-tuned the EQ using a reference mic for the new location. I think the stage/image is a little better on this wall as opposed to under the (reflective) shelf.
:rocker:

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Now the wall above the bench is bare and boring so have to do something about that...
 

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Farhan

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First, your shop and skills are enviable. I really look forward to seeing updates to both of your threads. So thank you for sharing.

This is probably born out of ignorance but since I've never seen speakers/subwoofers mounted in that way before, is there any chance listening at high volumes would have any of those speakers moving around somewhat?
 
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rattle_snake

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First, your shop and skills are enviable. I really look forward to seeing updates to both of your threads. So thank you for sharing.

This is probably born out of ignorance but since I've never seen speakers/subwoofers mounted in that way before, is there any chance listening at high volumes would have any of those speakers moving around somewhat?

Thanks for the complements. Really I'm just a big kid playing with fire and sharp things.

Your question is a good one, I have thought way too much about similar effects. But, no, they don't move even at full power. The cone and moving mass is negligible compared to the enclosure.

Most large concert speaker line array systems are suspended from above, so it is quite common. I considered using cheap chain hoists to lift and suspend the speaker like a concert setup, but decided not too as they (and unloaded chain) might rattle to much.

I have worked with acoustics and vibration coupling in past jobs. My initial plan was to isolate the subwoofers with rubber doughnuts like you would an air handler. But the acoustic coupling (through the air) into the walls and building are dominate enough that additional physical isolation wasn't going to help.
 
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rattle_snake

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I've got a few ideas for a decoration. Mostly old junk, has to be cheap or free.

Still working on organization of tools, toolboxes and such. I would like to eventually get rid of the tall black cabinet so I have been slowly finding new homes for the items inside. I have been pondering options for a welding table that will use floor space as efficiently as possible and house some of the larger items. I moved my array of rotational abrasive machines onto the TIG until the table is built that will hopefully support them. I added a piece of flat bar but the blue ones don't hang very securely so whipped up a quick wire loop for the 7".

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but then I realized the cooler mount with it's TIG rod tubes need to be painted/beatified/turd-polished
 

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