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2018 Garage Sale Thread

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Cruzan80

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Finally had a chance to go out and look. Have been busy trying to find a new house and getting ours ready to show.

First pic is the overview of it all. Think I paid a good/great price overall. Total was $80.

The left side/second pic is all Starrett. A dial indicator (.0005), a 6" dial caliper (.001), a full set of mitre/center/angle Gage with ruler, another ruler without groove, a 4" machinist square, a steel clamp, and a hexagon/octagon ruler?

Middle picture/third pic is of a 6" mitutoyo height Gage (.001), a bundle of sockets (CM =v= sae, -v- metric, Snap-on hex and a few random Snap-on others), early 1/4" spinner (pointy A) with female end in handle, CM crowntop angle Gage, Carlyle 3/8 stubby ratchet, live and dead center, palmgren machinist vise (dead flat on three sides), large Chuck w/ MT2 taper, and whole box of GW Morse end Mills, look immaculate. The small tube in front is #0-4 taps with handle).

The right side/fourth pic is a set of Chinese parallels, a 3 and 5" angle plate (No 22 & 23?) and a vise that swivels and angles.

No name on the vise, attached a pic from a side. Marked on the bottom rotationally, and on one edge for angle. Handle removeable. Any ideas on who made this?

Left behind a powerarm and powerarm Jr (no bullets) and a newer Columbian 4".IMG_20180812_120531188.jpegIMG_20180812_120550958.jpgIMG_20180812_120556285.jpgIMG_20180812_120603748.jpgIMG_20180812_120619548.jpg

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Boofer

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They wanted a dollar, I gave them four bucks for this and six cans of fuel.

I wasn't exactly sure if it worked or what it costs new.



I know now.

No real use for it, it's up for trade.



Duck I bought that same stove over 10 years ago when they first came out for $70 new. You did pretty damn good. The stove comes off the bottom and is designed to fit inside the pot along with a small canister of fuel so it's all self contained. I don't cook in mine but use it just to boil water for rehydrating meals and making coffee. Nothing boils water faster. You ****.
 

d42jeep

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Today was an improvement over yesterday in the old tool search. Went to a local garage sale and picked up a few tools. Then the Tahoe flea and a couple more vendors were there than yesterday. The garage sale shot is first with a couple pictures of an odd tool from Berkeley. The Tahoe flea items are next with an unusual combo, a Bonney single offset DBE and a Whitworth Snap-on shorty combo.
-Don
 

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jeffmoss26

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I stopped at an estate sale yesterday and picked up a few things including a box of padlocks and keys. None of them were matched and I wound up throwing out ten of the locks, but Four of the monster super locks were keyed alike and one key was in there for them. There were also a few other master locks that worked and some lockout tagout locks. Total for the box was $10

Please let me know if you want to sell/trade the two Best padlocks!
 

bluebolt

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Finally had a chance to go out and look. Have been busy trying to find a new house and getting ours ready to show.

First pic is the overview of it all. Think I paid a good/great price overall. Total was $80.

The left side/second pic is all Starrett. A dial indicator (.0005), a 6" dial caliper (.001), a full set of mitre/center/angle Gage with ruler, another ruler without groove, a 4" machinist square, a steel clamp, and a hexagon/octagon ruler?

Middle picture/third pic is of a 6" mitutoyo height Gage (.001), a bundle of sockets (CM =v= sae, -v- metric, Snap-on hex and a few random Snap-on others), early 1/4" spinner (pointy A) with female end in handle, CM crowntop angle Gage, Carlyle 3/8 stubby ratchet, live and dead center, palmgren machinist vise (dead flat on three sides), large Chuck w/ MT2 taper, and whole box of GW Morse end Mills, look immaculate. The small tube in front is #0-4 taps with handle).

The right side/fourth pic is a set of Chinese parallels, a 3 and 5" angle plate (No 22 & 23?) and a vise that swivels and angles.

No name on the vise, attached a pic from a side. Marked on the bottom rotationally, and on one edge for angle. Handle removeable. Any ideas on who made this?

Left behind a powerarm and powerarm Jr (no bullets) and a newer Columbian 4".IMG_20180812_120531188.jpegIMG_20180812_120550958.jpgIMG_20180812_120556285.jpgIMG_20180812_120603748.jpgIMG_20180812_120619548.jpg

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Joe Striper has had a few of those vises, ask him.
 

Jayman17

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Feb 6, 2017
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Outlaw, I have a question a little off topic about those c-clamps. Do you know if it's possible to find and install the missing hold-downs on the end of the threaded part of the c-clamp? I've never seen or heard anyone doing that and I've always wonder if it can be done. :headscrat

Jay

yes. google: "replacement swivel pads for c-clamps"

or

more specific macmaster-carr, drill down through the "c-clamps"

-Outlaw responded before mine posted - jeff[/QUOTE]

S&A, outlaw and Shanny,
Thanks guys for the feedback on the clamp question :thumbup:

Jay
 

gpw_42

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wrenchguy

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Picked at a engine show swapmeet.
its a w.&b. douglas, middletown conn. sandstone water sharpening wheel. i think it was originally hand crank.

Need help getting it going, What rpm should it run? Stone is 26" diameter and 4" wide. weighs several hundred lbs. Is it run in water or should there be a drip cup? i'm wanting to get it going with 1 my small aircooled engines. where are the operating instructions 4 these things?
thanks 4 any help.
video,

I guess Thomas Edison had 1 from same manufacturer as mine.:thumbup:
His is in Ford museum greenfield village.

 

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LesserSon

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Wrenchguy, I had an opportunity to buy one of those (on a wood frame, with a working motor) for $50 and I stupidly dallied till someone else got it. The iron trough on the underside should hold a reservoir of water. You could patch or line it if it leaks. As far as rpm, slow enough that water dosen’t spatter all over the place - SLOW.
Most don’t have a tool rest like a small grinder. Best results for getting an even edge on longer things like knives is a jig that looks like a crutch. The wheel is placed so the back side is near as possible to a post or wall. Clamp knife to jig, and rest the other end of the jig against the post, over the wheel, so the knife edge contacts the stone. The jig maintains a constant distance and angle. I would think such a jig is the optimal means of putting an edge on an inside curve like a sickle or scythe, especially if the stone has a bit of a radius to the working surface.
 
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d42jeep

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Northern California
Don, your "odd tool" is a threading tool, issued June 28, 1921, per: https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/f5/59/40/176db188292e47/US1382841.pdf Interestingly, the inventor, Leon Lynn, was from Berkeley. Pretty cool snag!

I also like that Dunlap box, even though that's outside my collecting area.

Thanks, Steve!
I started a thread on the rethreading tool in the vintage tool discussion here.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398256
I picked up the empty Dunlap circular saw case in hopes that my Dunlap hand grinder might fit inside. Here are a couple more pictures of the case and a catalog listing from 1952.
-Don
 

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LesserSon

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I wrestled with a sticky eggbeater drill chuck today, and finally decided to give it up for lost. What I learned from cutting it apart is valuable, though: if there is no visible means of backing the insert out, there probably isn’t one. This chuck was pressed together, and I think I have a couple more the same style. So no more wrestling.
The rusty spacer gave me some concern, because I didn’t see it come out, so when I noticed it, I figured it was from a breast drill I had apart yesterday!
I couldn’t immediately believe it could have been in this chuck without getting a scratch from the hacksaw, but there is a faint ring inside the chuck where it must have been, and I did cut it apart in three stages. The spacer must have come out after the first half of the sagital cut, when I stopped because half the insert fell out. Or maybe it really is from something else...maybe I better cut another one apart to be sure...
Anyway, I don’t think this type of chuck can be rehabilitated mechanically. Maybe a very careful chemical derusting.
 

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bluebolt

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Wrenchguy, here's a few video's. One thing I found while googling is don't let the wheel sit in water when you are not using it, the wheel can absorb water and cause heavy or weak spots. Also RPM should be very slow, couldn't pin it down but one guy suggests 20-25 RPM for a 20" wheel. ne guy ran his wheel too fast and it blew up, pieces went through the ceiling and through a Powermatic band saw. Luckily he was to the side when it blew up.



 

bluebolt

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Wrenchguy, here is an operating manual for a 10" Craftsman Wet Grindstone from the 1950's . Although it is not the same and much smaller it has some good info in it. For instance with the 10" wheel the speed reduction built in when used with a 1750 RPM electric motor is only 130 RPM for 343 ft/min and higher is dangerous. That would translate to 50 RPM for your 26" wheel and that might still be too high.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3219.pdf
 

3baygarage

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Nice finds guys.

Wrenchguy-that stone looks cool. I hope you get it going and make a video like that foot pedal saw.

Today I hit up the pawn shop and dealt with the good price guy. $10 for the following

Mac rolling head pry bar
Stead made in Britain small insulated screwdriver, never heard of the brand
Indestro 1/4 drive ratchet
Mac 11/16 stubby wrench
Matco Silver Eagle socket
Matco witte screwdriver
Matco 1/4 combo wrench
Gearwrench 18mm stubby
 

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wrenchguy

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Wrenchguy, here is an operating manual for a 10" Craftsman Wet Grindstone from the 1950's . Although it is not the same and much smaller it has some good info in it. For instance with the 10" wheel the speed reduction built in when used with a 1750 RPM electric motor is only 130 RPM for 343 ft/min and higher is dangerous. That would translate to 50 RPM for your 26" wheel and that might still be too high.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3219.pdf

thanks all guys 4 the sharpening stone info. now iffen i figure out what all the "rube" pulleys will give me in rpm, the engine i plan on using i can get down 500 rpm. getting ready 4 some serious backyard engineering. :thumbup:
 

bluebolt

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thanks all guys 4 the sharpening stone info. now iffen i figure out what all the "rube" pulleys will give me in rpm, the engine i plan on using i can get down 500 rpm. getting ready 4 some serious backyard engineering. :thumbup:


Figuring ratios and rpm is easy. If the power pulley is smaller just divide the diameter of the smaller one into the diameter of the bigger one to get the ratio. If you have a 3" pulley on the engine and that flat belt pulley is 15" you have a ratio of 1 to 5, the v belt pulleys on the other side look like about 4" and 12" for another reduction of 1 to 3, times 5 times 3 and you have a reduction of 1 to 15 giving a grinding wheel RPM of 33.33.
 

wrenchguy

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Figuring ratios and rpm is easy. If the power pulley is smaller just divide the diameter of the smaller one into the diameter of the bigger one to get the ratio. If you have a 3" pulley on the engine and that flat belt pulley is 15" you have a ratio of 1 to 5, the v belt pulleys on the other side look like about 4" and 12" for another reduction of 1 to 3, times 5 times 3 and you have a reduction of 1 to 15 giving a grinding wheel RPM of 33.33.

:headscrat:headscrat:headscrat

i'll just post what i got to work with.:thumbup:
 

cbacres

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Here’s my latest toy for the shop.
bd860cceb207359b9057d05d485ba775.jpg
A 11” Rockwell lathe with a decent assortment of accessories.
I bought from a estate sale, the guy had two houses next to each other and this one was just tools.
796625963db1cc4f3a377db2eaa477b8.jpg
Also picked up a crate of backing plates and other misc things.
a266c427618be64462ad9974f451a56a.jpg
I’ll post some more once I’ll get it off trailer and unwrapped!
98801686a5e04ad9db952a64e624f0e2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Outlawmws

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Figuring ratios and rpm is easy. If the power pulley is smaller just divide the diameter of the smaller one into the diameter of the bigger one to get the ratio. If you have a 3" pulley on the engine and that flat belt pulley is 15" you have a ratio of 1 to 5, the v belt pulleys on the other side look like about 4" and 12" for another reduction of 1 to 3, times 5 times 3 and you have a reduction of 1 to 15 giving a grinding wheel RPM of 33.33.

So when you are not using it for grinding, you can play your vinyl LP records! :pimpflash

:evil:
 

3jakes

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South Central PA
Picked up this old tape measure on Friday.
Has numbers 1923 scratched into the chrome under the crank along with initials.
Leather cover stamped Eugene Dietzgen Co.
Anyone know any company history?
 

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Outlawmws

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I know Deitzgen was big for drafting tools back before CAD removed most drafting boards from engineering. Sorry I don't know their history.
 

Prichman38

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1910 or maybe 1913 Husky sockets

Found these at an estate sale. Paid $1 total.

0115336684c35c48c33f7a8ceee50099.jpgIMG_0284.jpg

Not sure what brand of perfect handle screw driver

IMG_0285.jpg


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Prichman38

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1910 or maybe 1913 Husky sockets

Found these at an estate sale. Paid $1 total.

0115336684c35c48c33f7a8ceee50099.jpgIMG_0284.jpg

Not sure what brand of perfect handle screw driver

IMG_0285.jpg


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I’m tempted to bring the broken socket to Home Depot to see if the would exchange it.


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M_George

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I’m tempted to bring the broken socket to Home Depot to see if the would exchange it.


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I'd fight that temptation. Even with the crack, to replace a piece of US tool history with a piece of Chinese junk would be sacrilege. :shocking::shocking:
 

txlonghorn1989

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Picked these up this morning from CL...Dake No 001 Arbor Press, some kind of wet grinding wheel? and a Super Indestro socket set & spinner? No 360?

The guy didn't seem completely sure about the grinding stone. Said it holds water and the wheel sits in that. I can find no maker on it anywhere. One side has "G 7" and the top cover for the grinding wheel has "G 71" both are raised lettering. Anyone have any knowledge of these in general and this one in particular? Wondering what RPM motor would I be looking at to drive this thing.

The Super Indestro whatever-you-call-this is cool. Looks like a No 360. The socket sizes are 7/16, 3/8, 11/32, 5/16 and 1/4.
 

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pfaustus

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It looks like a Prairie Tool G7 wet grinder. I love mine. You can sharpen a chisel or plane blade to a wire edge without the slightest worry of burning the edge. I think they are out of business.
 

bluebolt

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The guy didn't seem completely sure about the grinding stone. Said it holds water and the wheel sits in that. I can find no maker on it anywhere. One side has "G 7" and the top cover for the grinding wheel has "G 71" both are raised lettering. Anyone have any knowledge of these in general and this one in particular? Wondering what RPM motor would I be looking at to drive this thing.

Pfaustus is right, it is a Prairie G7 10" grinder. You need a 1725 RPM motor and a 1 1/2" pulley. Here are the instructions!!!!

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1459/2833.pdf
 

Outlawmws

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TX, Nice find! What size wheel on that wet grinder? I have a similar one that is driven by a gear reduction motor. (Also a smaller more self contained Sears that I use for wood chisels. the smaller arc is great for that)
 

Prichman38

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:thumbup:



Ahh, that *****. As funny as it would be to see the looks on workers’ faces, it would pain us vintage tool guys.



I was kidding. I didn’t know Husky made or branded sockets for over 100 years ago.




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txlonghorn1989

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Pfaustus, bluebolt,
Thanks for the info and the link. I will check it out. More info than I expected for sure!

Outlaw,
The grinding wheel is 10" diameter, 1.5" thick.

This is a slow grinding wheel right? I've really been hoping to get one of those for a while now. Rather than a couple of hundred it's gonna cost me the $25 for the Prairie G7 and whatever I end up paying for the pulley and an old motor. Got a line on an old Delta 1720 RPM motor for $10 which I'm supposed to pick up tomorrow. Super excited!

Edit: Downloaded and read the doc on the Prairie G7 Wet Grindstone. Says it should not exceed 150 RPM so definitely answers my question that this is indeed a slow speed grindstone. Yippeee!
 

GrayFlattop

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Location
Chicago
I know Deitzgen was big for drafting tools back before CAD removed most drafting boards from engineering. Sorry I don't know their history.
Eugene Dietzgen started in the 1890's in Chicago - initially making slide rules and expanding into drafting / engineering drawing tools. As a kid in the late 60's I loved going into their showroom to buy drafting tools (ok, so I was a little odd, but I digress). They were pretty-much the gold standard for drafting instruments and had sales offices in may large cities into the 70's. Then along came pocket calculators (rendering slide rules obsolete) and by the 1980, CAD started to really take hold. So they had a cutting-edge business plan for almost a century - now not so much.

To me, manual drafting is a core skill, but CAD is superior in so many ways, it's hard to argue.

One of the original Dietzgen buildings still stands in Chicago - you can see it from the el train on the way to see the Cubs of if you are walking around the Eastern edge of the DePaul University campus.
ajaxhelper
. I think this was their second building. The company exists today servicing the large scale graphic arts company
 

Jaydb07

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
335
Location
Lodi, CA
Ok just got home from a 6 hour driving loop after work to pick up a few goodiesIMG_6216.jpgIMG_6217.jpg. 60s era craftsman toolbox upper and lower, a Rock Island 524-BX, an Athol 716 5”, and a 104# I think Trenton anvil.


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gpw_42

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
717
Location
NC Sandhills, USA
Ok just got home from a 6 hour driving loop after work to pick up a few goodies. 60s era craftsman toolbox upper and lower, a Rock Island 524-BX, an Athol 716 5”, and a 104# I think Trenton anvil.

GREAT score, Jay! Well worth the long trip. I'd love to have one of those red/gray boxes like that....And the vises...
 
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