2 post lift

Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

I'm set on a 2 post lift. So I can do brakes, take off wheels, etc.
Heaviest largest thing I'll ever lift is a suburban.

Any recommendations ?

lemmy999 · Jul 29, 2019

How much ceiling height do you have? How heavy is your Suburban? I'm assuming 6000-7000 lb?

Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

A Suburban is 5800lbs. Figure 6000lbs with fuel, with cargo carp. So a 7000lb lift is fine. I don't have room for overkill. I have a pitched roof, so probably 12' on the low end. I have to measure it.

corvette43056 · Jul 29, 2019

This is the lift I have

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Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

Do you like the lift ?

I'm 6'2" tall, so 6'3" with boots. I would like to be able to stand up while changing oil.
Do I need extra high lifting capability ?

cj7jeep81 · Jul 29, 2019

Short Track said:
Do you like the lift ?

I'm 6'2" tall, so 6'3" with boots. I would like to be able to stand up while changing oil.
Do I need extra high lifting capability ?

Unless you spend a lot of extra money, I doubt you'll find one that lifts high enough to not have to duck. Generally, the extra high lifts don't actually lift higher, they just have more room between the lift arms and the top bar (for really tall vehicles).

I would get at least a 9k lift. The lifting rating is divided equally per arm, and each arm is only good for 1/4 the total lift. So each arm of a 7k lift is rated for 1,750 pounds. If your vehicle isn't perfectly balanced (which is tough to hit), you'll have more weight on either the front or back, so you could quickly overload the arms even if the vehicle weight is within the rated capacity.

I have a 10k lift (its an older one), and it picks up my Suburban just fine, but you can tell it works harder than it does when picking up a light car. One thing I would closely at is the length of the lift arms. A Suburban is a long vehicle, and it can be tricky sometimes getting the lift arms to reach good lifting points. If mine had shorter arms, it would be very difficult.

corvette43056 · Jul 29, 2019

I'm 5'11" I have to duck just a little. Most times I don't lift any higher than my oil drain and use my rolling seat. Only lift all the way up only to work on exhaust.

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Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

Is it hard to not whack the door when getting in-out of a vehicle ?
Especially on a suburban which is slightly wider than a sports car.

If there is no top bar, it looks like you can set the posts wider apart, correct?

corvette43056 · Jul 29, 2019

This is a better description.

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corvette43056 · Jul 29, 2019

I have a 18 silverado crew cab I back in so I'm just in front of column with the door open I can get out easy but rear passengers have to get out before backing in.

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MBABGarage · Jul 29, 2019

What is your budget range? You can get lifts from as low as $1500 up to $10k+.
Are you set on American Made?

Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

I will spend money so I don't whack my head.

For a weekend hobby, I'll buy Chinese. That don't bother me. But American may be cheaper now with the Trump steel tariffs.
I'm going home tonight, and I will take height measurements.

Bad00SS · Jul 29, 2019

I bought the Atlas Pro 9D 2 post lift. 9,000lb. It is Chinese parts but assembled here I'm pretty sure. I ordered it from Greg smith equipment. Awesome guys over there. They have videos of the lift being tested way over capacity and even up to failure. They test every model they sell in house and stand behind them. This thing was strong compared to some competitors. You need minimum 12ft ceiling for it. I have 12'-6" and it was easy to stand the posts up. It will lift 6'-5" from the pads on the arms upward. You should be able to walk all the way under it at full height with a car. As I have found with a SUV the roof line is tall and you cant go up as high and you have to duck under it. To fully lift a SUV for a 6ft person to walk under you need the 14' tall 12,000lb lift they offer which is a lot more money and you would need over 14ft ceilings.

Here's the link to what I bought.

https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Pro-9D

MBABGarage · Jul 29, 2019

Typically, American made lifts are double to quadruple the price of the Chinese ones. Yes, even with the tariffs.
American made - Mohawk is the industry leader while Challenger and Rotary are other great ones.

As far as Chinese ones go, Bend-Pak and Atlas are pretty well respected.
If you have the ceiling height, this is one of the taller ones around.
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-10HP
There is a ton of great info on Greg Smiths website as well.

I myself just recently bought a 2 post lift, and after months of research, I went with this Derek Weaver model.
https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders...-w-pro10-blue-certified-overhead-2-post-lift/

I dont have it up yet as the shop is still getting finished up, but will post about it soon.

If you have a suburban, I'd go at least 9,000 pounds. There are many 9k Chinese lifts that don't really lift 9,000 pounds. Upon my research, I found that several brands were tested and were only able to lift just over 8k. If I'm standing under 6,000 pounds, I want something more secure.
Remember, when measuring the height of your suburban to do the math about standing under it, only measure from the bottom of the frame to the top of the car. Exclude the wheel and suspension height. Seems simple but so many people forget that.

ManOnTheCouch · Jul 29, 2019

Derek weaver offers a lot of bang for the buck.

cj7jeep81 · Jul 29, 2019

Short Track said:
Is it hard to not whack the door when getting in-out of a vehicle ?
Especially on a suburban which is slightly wider than a sports car.

If there is no top bar, it looks like you can set the posts wider apart, correct?

The Suburban is pretty tight. Easiest way is to get lined up, and try to leave it in neutral (getting harder to do with all the interlocks). Then get out, and roll it forward. You can get out with it in position, but the door only opens about 1/4-1/3, so its tight. They do make lifts that are extra wide though, which I'm sure would be super helpful.

Typically, if there is no top bar, there is a bottom bar. I believe Mohawk makes some without bars, but they are super expensive.

Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

The top bar, or bottom bar. Are they adjustable? width wise.. I have plenty of width.

cj7jeep81 · Jul 29, 2019

Short Track said:
The top bar, or bottom bar. Are they adjustable? width wise.. I have plenty of width.

Depends on the model. Some lifts are adjustable, some aren't. Mine was adjustable height wise, but not width wise.

dagofast · Jul 29, 2019

From the shopping I did on 2 post lifts, the first big decision was Asymmetrical or Symmetrical? Then floor plate or top post? The one feature I really liked that even some of the imported lifts had was an 8 bend tower. I think that is a Rotary Lift invention that helps stiffen the towers and helps to keep sway to a minimum. The final thing I would look for in a 2 post lift is that the carriage that holds the arms is a fabricated from plate piece and NOT a piece of tubing with a hole drilled through it with the arms hanging off. I found this video to be very informative.

I have no connection to any lift company and I ended up buying a 4 post lift. But 2 friends bought the lift in the video 2-3 years ago and they have been quite pleased with them. Just like I am tickled pink with my Advantage 4 post lift with a rolling air jack.

The final observation I would leave you with is this: Many of us have researched, agonized and sweated over which lift to buy. We all want certain features and we all want the best bang for the buck. Amazingly, I've never talked to ANYONE who regretted getting a lift. Which leads to one inescapable conclusion: Even a crappy lift beats the hell out of having NO lift. Hopefully that puts your mind somewhat at ease.

MBABGarage · Jul 29, 2019

Atlas has some extra tall and/or extra wide models to choose from.

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Short Track · Jul 29, 2019

I have 12'6" height. and at least 12'6" width. and I can go wider if necessary.
One thing most important to me, is NOT banging my head.
As important to me is not banging the car door.

Positioning the car forward & rearward is limited. That position will have to be precise, as I have roof structure going across; in front, and behind the car.

corvette43056 · Jul 29, 2019

Mine is 11'10" tall

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bobj49f2 · Jul 29, 2019

I have a Manitowoc asymmetrical 9000#. It has the top brace. My shop has 15' ceiling. I lift my '04 Dodge RAM 1500, I would think comparable to a Suburban, without a problem. I have truck blocks that clamp on the lifting pads that add an additional 5"~. I also use a screw jack under the rear trailer hitch to stabilize the truck once it's up. I can raise it high enough to easily change oil.

Once you get a lift and do your first brake job you are going to be amazed how nice it is. My knees and back thank me every time I put my vehicles up on it.

ken275 · Jul 30, 2019

I have an older challenger 39000 with 2' extensions. Its rated at 9000 lb. With the arms on the top locks there is exactly 72" between the floor and the bottom of the arms. I'm 6'3" and i have no problem standing under any vehicle. You will have to duck a little around the arms and tires but not under the vehicle. It lifts my wife's 15' suburban and my 3/4 ton work Van's with no problem.

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cory58 · Jul 30, 2019

Love my 10k Rotary asymetric. Bought it last summer - $4,500 installed. Lifts my Tundra with no strain. Extra cost was worth it to not trust my life to a Chinese lift - to each his own.

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sz0k30 · Jul 30, 2019

With a bottom plate, keep in mind that sometimes cars may not be running & will need to be pushed over the hump. As far as hitting your head, better figure that's always going to happen. Just depends on what part of the car you're under.

I've got an Aresco #9000.

clinebarger · Jul 31, 2019

dagofast said:
From the shopping I did on 2 post lifts, the first big decision was Asymmetrical or Symmetrical? Then floor plate or top post? The one feature I really liked that even some of the imported lifts had was an 8 bend tower. I think that is a Rotary Lift invention that helps stiffen the towers and helps to keep sway to a minimum. The final thing I would look for in a 2 post lift is that the carriage that holds the arms is a fabricated from plate piece and NOT a piece of tubing with a hole drilled through it with the arms hanging off. I found this video to be very informative.

I have no connection to any lift company and I ended up buying a 4 post lift. But 2 friends bought the lift in the video 2-3 years ago and they have been quite pleased with them. Just like I am tickled pink with my Advantage 4 post lift with a rolling air jack.

The final observation I would leave you with is this: Many of us have researched, agonized and sweated over which lift to buy. We all want certain features and we all want the best bang for the buck. Amazingly, I've never talked to ANYONE who regretted getting a lift. Which leads to one inescapable conclusion: Even a crappy lift beats the hell out of having NO lift. Hopefully that puts your mind somewhat at ease.

Thanks for the video....I didn't care for the pot shots taken at Ammco & Rotary, As they are basically stealing designs from both.

The 8 bend post is a Rotary design & the Metal fluid reservoir was pioneered by Ammco.
While the Ammco lifts had 6 bend posts.....They were thick as **** & just as stable as a Rotary 8 bend

We have to keep in mind that 2-post above ground lifts are relatively new to the automotive repair industry....In ground Air over Hydraulic lifts once ruled.

2 post lift

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