Best way to hang interior purlins 2ft OC

GRivera · Oct 1, 2019

Best way to hang interior girts 2ft OC

I will be installing interior girts in my 30x40x12 pole barn by myself. The posts are 8ft OC. My plan was to mark vertical center of each post with a chalk line. And the bottom of each girts on posts with chalk line or laser level. Then, since I’m working alone, screw small blocks on each post temporarily for each row so I can have support on each end of 2x4s as I go along with framing nailer. Eventually, I will cover with 7/16” OSB.

But, before I do this I’m sure someone much more clever than me has done this alone and can share a few tips.

ckyle29 · Oct 1, 2019

I think the biggest concern you have attaching directly to the posts is from frost heave. If your ground doesn't move, you will be ok, but if you have ground freeze in your area and your posts move, your walls may rack up & down.

Here in North Texas, we don't have ground freeze to worry about, so I attached bookshelf girts to the inside of the posts. What I did was place a treated girt (with two 14.5" blocks already attached to it) along the floor at the bottom, and screwed that to the posts. This way I would have something to nail the bottom of the plywood to. Then I attached a 14.5 inch block on each side, placed the next girt on top of that block and repeated until I was at the top of the wall. Sort of like building a big ladder. Then a standard roll of 15 " insulation fit snuggly in between. I used screws but nails will work too.

My shop is 30 X 60 X 12 and I framed the entire thing, walls and ceiling runners, by myself, so you can do it!

Mattlt · Oct 2, 2019

Consider hiring a kid to help you hold one end. Adding a 2nd person will make this process go more than twice as fast. The temporary block/template is a really good idea though.

Also think about using 16' long girts - less ends to deal with.

larry_g · Oct 2, 2019

Re: Best way to hang interior girts 2ft OC

GRivera said:
Then, since I’m working alone, screw small blocks on each post temporarily for each row so I can have support on each end of 2x4s as I go along with framing nailer. Eventually, I will cover with 7/16” OSB.

A couple of notes on your temp support blocks

1. Make them the proper length so they set the distance between the girts.

2. Add a piece on the front that will capture the girt so it doesn't fall off while nailing the other end. have the front support offset to the side so that it does not interfere with nailing.

lg
no neat sig line

rieferman · Oct 2, 2019

Nice adds LG - those will both help the OP a lot

Also, I would figure out a way to use a quick clamp to hold the interior girts in place rather than a screw each time. Might fit between exterior siding and post as-is allowing you to clamp front/back... or you could build the block to sit on left or right of post instead.. would keep it out of way for nailing and allow easy clamping too.

NWOhioChevyGuy · Oct 2, 2019

If you use a level or string to mark/set the first row, then a properly cut 2x6 and a clamp will make quick work of the remaining rows.

Jeff Ivers · Oct 2, 2019

Your general plan is good, but I think you would save time if you rig a couple of blocks that you can clamp to your posts to provide the support. Perhaps a chunk of 2x6 with a couple of 1x2 lengths screwed to it just wide enough apart for the bar on a bar clamp. If the building is already sided, this would not work on the corner posts, but the same block could be temporarily screwed on. You could even add a small upright on the block with a spacer under it to keep your 2x4's from slipping off.

GRivera · Oct 2, 2019

I like the ideas. My electrical wire is already run making clamping a bit complex but not impossible. I also like the idea of precut lengths of 2x6” with a strap to keep the 2x4” from slipping off.

The Cobbler · Oct 2, 2019

I would even build a jig so that you don't have to make each measurement each time.
run a level chalk line to gauge the jig off of. tack the jig in place and voila

scottydosnntkno · Oct 2, 2019

Just cut a bunch of blocks (14-3/4 or 22-3/4) depending on if your doing 16 or 24 oc.

Do you first level line, nail them in with the Nailer. Put a block up, one nail to hold it, set your next girt, nail the ends in. Set a block, rinse repeat.

It’s not critical if your dead nuts in the middle of the post. So you cut the last piece of the row, big deal. Will save a lot of time over chalking the posts vertically and precutting every girt. As long as your at least an inch into the (probably 6x6?) posts the nails will hold just fine.

It’s called roughing for a reason. as long as it’s structurally sound, it all gets covered anyways

You shouldn’t need a piece to hold the board from falling off. Your only talking 8’ lengths, not 12-14-16ft where warping is a factor

Sure if your insulating you don’t insulate that 3.5” wide piece of the post. But you already have maybe 1.5” of insulation in front of 5.5” of wood so the loss in insulation value is very negligible especially as far as the leaking of a pole barn is concerned

GRivera · Oct 3, 2019

I had planned 24” OC with 7/16 OSB sheathing. Should I do 16” OC instead?

GRivera · Dec 17, 2019

Update -

Shirk Pole Buildings came out Monday (12/16) morning and installed R38 ceiling, R19 walls and metal ceiling. The plan is to do a T1-11 wainscoting 48" up from floor and then OSB above that. Here are some pics:

bullnerd · Dec 17, 2019

Oh man! Gonna be sweet!

Bretny · Dec 18, 2019

Why would you use an exterior very pricy t1-11 on the interior? For the price of that stuff could you do 1/2in ply all the way up?

GRivera · Dec 18, 2019

Bretny said:
Why would you use an exterior very pricy t1-11 on the interior? For the price of that stuff could you do 1/2in ply all the way up?

Hadn't priced it - is it that bad?

Best way to hang interior purlins 2ft OC

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