mikeswrenches
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Wow! Already up to an even 700. .
Don’t I wish! Unfortunately I tend to use random numbers.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Don’t I wish! Unfortunately I tend to use random numbers.
mikeswrenches
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Another one for the spreadsheet.
Prentiss No. 300 Anchorline. The smallest of this series.
1 1/4 inch jaws, 1 inch opening
Weight: 13.5 ozs.
Prentiss No. 300 Anchorline. The smallest of this series.
1 1/4 inch jaws, 1 inch opening
Weight: 13.5 ozs.
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Dlavallee22
Well-known member
Iv been looking for nice smaller swivel base prentiss for over a year now and never seem to find anything remotely close to the right size, good shape, nevermind a good price tag to go along with it... until yesterday! Found a very neglected little prentiss no. 90 with 3 1/4” jaws that is in awesome shape under all the dirt dust and grime. It even has the graffiti like casting on the side I love. Can’t wait to get this one cleaned up
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Dlavallee22
Well-known member
Mike- some absolutely awesome vises in your collection! Love seeing these pictures
Burn1- that’s a very nice set up you out together for that Wilton that i can’t believe looks that good with the original paint and decals to top it off! Very very nice
Burn1- that’s a very nice set up you out together for that Wilton that i can’t believe looks that good with the original paint and decals to top it off! Very very nice
DaveT
Well-known member
I’m liking the look of your workbench!! Vintage legs with a butcher block top looks nice. Have you posted pics of it anywhere?
Tim H.
Member
Swivel jaw pin? I’m a rookie here. I tried moving that pin on top with Channel Locks but it wouldn’t budge. What is it for? BTW...it’s not obvious to me how to remove/replace the jaws.
Dlavallee22
Well-known member
Swivel jaw pin? I’m a rookie here. I tried moving that pin on top with Channel Locks but it wouldn’t budge. What is it for? BTW...it’s not obvious to me how to remove/replace the jaws.
The jaws are cast in and not replaceable. The pin on the top behind the rear jaw holds that rear jaw in place to keep the jaws parallel like a regular vise. When you pull that pin, it allows the rear jaw to swivel and you can clamp irregular shaped objects in the vise.
Your pin is just rusted in place like mine was too. Disassemble the swivel base and remove the main nut and you will be able to get a punch through the bottom to punch the pin out from underneath
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Tim H.
Member
OK, nice. Is there anyway to tell the year of mfg? Value? I’m keeping it in the family so just curious.
My plan is to sand this vise as much as possible and or have it media blasted and then paint it. Any tips on the painting process, type etc? It works perfectly so I’ll just grease everything up as I read-assemble it.
Thanks.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm not a fan of media blasting but that's me; sanding will also damage the as cast and machined finish.
De-grease, then lots of other options to de-rust:
Even a wire wheel on a 4" mini grinder works well on Cast Iron. Its jsut harder to get in the nooks...
De-grease, then lots of other options to de-rust:
- Evaporust
- Electrolysis tank (a VERY easy thing to setup)
- Citric acid
- Vinegar, (but Don't let ti sit to long..)
- 10% molasses and water, (slow but effective)
- etc...
Even a wire wheel on a 4" mini grinder works well on Cast Iron. Its jsut harder to get in the nooks...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Oh yes, De-greasing: Grez-off - its my new favorite de-greaser. Amazing results!
Hi Dave, Thx Man. A project I wanted to build for years.
Posted in the 'Lets see your Workbench' thread:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464&page=226
chrisnazzy
Well-known member
That one would have come home with me too! Nice score. I too have been looking for a 3" swivel Prentiss and the graffiti script makes it even better.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
KMScott
Well-known member
Got it. Nice additions and awesome vises you have Mike, keep them coming.
mikeswrenches
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Thanks Kevin! Maybe I can plug a few holes in the spreadsheet.
sgtgeo
Well-known member
Dan8906
Well-known member
Any tips on getting the rear pins out of a bullet Wilton. I swear there is no holes on the inside of the sleeve to push the pins out. I don’t get it. Any ideas?
mikeswrenches
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Prentiss Vise Co. I posted a no. 160 a few posts back. Looks like yours, just a trifle bigger. Nice find. I’m sure your daughter will love it. She’ll probably put stickers all over it.
Fierljeppen
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Looks very similiar to a "Smith Pattern" combination vise, made by National Supply Co. of Toledo OH. Various companies made the "Smith Pattern" vise over the years, including The Oswego Tool Co. The No. 2 weighed about 70 lbs.
Hopefully someone else will chime in.
The vise is nice, but the fact that your daughter wanted one is way nicer! The catalog scan is from 1900.
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sgtgeo
Well-known member
Looks very similiar to a "Smith Pattern" combination vise, made by National Supply Co. of Toledo OH. Various companies made the "Smith Pattern" vise over the years, including The Oswego Tool Co. The No. 2 weighed about 70 lbs.
Hopefully someone else will chime in.
The vise is nice, but the fact that your daughter wanted one is way nicer! The catalog scan is from 1900.
She’s not the only one wife requested a Baby Bullet. It’s at powder coating now. Lol. There has been a vise in some state of restoration on the kitchen counter for the past year. Currently a freshly restored Wilton C3. I’m not sure what to do with it.
Shiftless
Well-known member
sgtgeo :
Wow!
A C3 that your wife didn’t mind sitting on a kitchen counter for a YEAR?
You are one lucky man.
Dan:
You could try tapping one of the pins inward just a little bit to see where they come through the nut. That would clear off any crud.
But why work that hard and risk damaging something if you don’t have to?
Think about cleaning the guts WITHOUT removing the nut. A 3HD bullet I cleaned up this week got this treatment:
1. Soak in undiluted simple green for 2 days to loosen up greasy dirt inside and also to make old paint fall off. If you can heat the SG all the better.
2. Move the vise out to your patio or driveway.
3. Using a pressure washer, blast the crud out by holding the wand right up to the hole in the front for a while and then reverse flow by blasting from the back end.
4. Dry thoroughly with compressed air and a heat gun.
Does anybody else use this method?
.
Wow!
A C3 that your wife didn’t mind sitting on a kitchen counter for a YEAR?
You are one lucky man.
Dan:
You could try tapping one of the pins inward just a little bit to see where they come through the nut. That would clear off any crud.
But why work that hard and risk damaging something if you don’t have to?
Think about cleaning the guts WITHOUT removing the nut. A 3HD bullet I cleaned up this week got this treatment:
1. Soak in undiluted simple green for 2 days to loosen up greasy dirt inside and also to make old paint fall off. If you can heat the SG all the better.
2. Move the vise out to your patio or driveway.
3. Using a pressure washer, blast the crud out by holding the wand right up to the hole in the front for a while and then reverse flow by blasting from the back end.
4. Dry thoroughly with compressed air and a heat gun.
Does anybody else use this method?
.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Here is a bullet I painted with Rustoleum Satin Sage.
It’s interesting to compare this color with the fantastic original paint 400 that Burn1 posted not long ago. His looks slightly more gray than mine but to my eye, it’s quite close.
Naturally to really compare we would have to put the vises next to each other and take one picture so that variations in lighting and camera equipment wouldn’t play a part in the comparison. Depending on lighting mine looks a bit more green than this. I used an LED floodlight with a color temperature of 2700 Kelvin.
Wilton evidently used quite a few different colors over the years. I don’t know of any definitive study of which years, which models, which colors. By colors, I mean exactly reproducible tints. Pantone numbers or ???
It’s interesting to compare this color with the fantastic original paint 400 that Burn1 posted not long ago. His looks slightly more gray than mine but to my eye, it’s quite close.
Naturally to really compare we would have to put the vises next to each other and take one picture so that variations in lighting and camera equipment wouldn’t play a part in the comparison. Depending on lighting mine looks a bit more green than this. I used an LED floodlight with a color temperature of 2700 Kelvin.
Wilton evidently used quite a few different colors over the years. I don’t know of any definitive study of which years, which models, which colors. By colors, I mean exactly reproducible tints. Pantone numbers or ???
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akasrick
Well-known member
This looks like a good candidate for that process, a Stanley hit the bottom of the line Sweet Heart #763. Found a brush bristle in the gad ugly black paint.
Hopefully once the black paint starts to slide off another color will show.
The jaw inserts were dropped into a cupful of Dawn trying to get the stains off. No luck.
One of these are on the spread sheet.
Looks like a machinist was running his cutter across the screw to get that effect (doodling?)
So after a lot of procrastination, and no SG, progress, looks to be a hint of green under that black paint, and of course the monkey wrench, a piece of masking tape under what I guess was tar, black under that.
After a little picking, just some splatter that cratered into the top paint.
Moved catalog cuts
The 1941 catalog shows a 763 with the hardened, machined, fitted.
(welded) jaws. With the Stanley name cast on the side.
The 1949 catalog shows a new style of 763. With removable, diamond checked steel jaws.
Possibly they used up stock within those years to make way for the change?
These next pictures are terrible even for me, they show placement.
A thoroughly trashed anvil with a #1 stamped on it.
In the back that had a lot of the rubbery feeling tar scratched off
And under the layers of paint and wax is the mostly filled in #862.
oops That file # reads right 765 1-3/4" opening.
Misidentified vise
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8545006#post8545006
akasrick
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Tim H.
Member
mikeswrenches
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akasrick,
You might want to be careful with taking off the black. From 1911 until about 1950 they were finished in a black & orange enamel.
In 1950 pipe jaws were added and the color changed to a gray & red finish.
In 1964 it was changed to dark blue(a very dark blue, almost black).
Information from Antique & Collectible Stanley Tools by John Walter. Pretty much the Bible on all things Stanley.
You might want to be careful with taking off the black. From 1911 until about 1950 they were finished in a black & orange enamel.
In 1950 pipe jaws were added and the color changed to a gray & red finish.
In 1964 it was changed to dark blue(a very dark blue, almost black).
Information from Antique & Collectible Stanley Tools by John Walter. Pretty much the Bible on all things Stanley.
Shiftless
Well-known member
akasrick:
With the Simple Green soak, I have found that old factory paint sticks the best. The paint on top of that applied by users over the years was rarely applied in a careful manner and comes off quicker once the part is in the SG bath. You can take advantage of this by checking on progress and stopping the paint removal before it’s ALL gone. Just pull the part out and agitate the surface with an old toothbrush or similiar tool.
Room temperature SG works rather slowly, like days...Hot SG works in a few hours.
If it’s another vise with a thin coat of spray paint, I’ve had good luck with that just wiping with a rough textured rag soaked in Acetone. Work outdoors with that stuff. Health hazards with inhalation and it’s also super flammable.
Methylene Chloride based paint strippers work the fastest but that stuff is off the market except to certain professionals. It is nasty stuff.
With the Simple Green soak, I have found that old factory paint sticks the best. The paint on top of that applied by users over the years was rarely applied in a careful manner and comes off quicker once the part is in the SG bath. You can take advantage of this by checking on progress and stopping the paint removal before it’s ALL gone. Just pull the part out and agitate the surface with an old toothbrush or similiar tool.
Room temperature SG works rather slowly, like days...Hot SG works in a few hours.
If it’s another vise with a thin coat of spray paint, I’ve had good luck with that just wiping with a rough textured rag soaked in Acetone. Work outdoors with that stuff. Health hazards with inhalation and it’s also super flammable.
Methylene Chloride based paint strippers work the fastest but that stuff is off the market except to certain professionals. It is nasty stuff.
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akasrick
Well-known member
I'll definitely keep that in mind. Was anything mentioned about them keeping the Jersey vise colors after they bought them? As I had a Stanley, same logo, with the milky brown paint.
I'll have to see if some of that book is online.
akasrick
akasrick
Well-known member
I have a bucket of evaporated SG that I'll drop them in that I have to refill, it's been awhile.
Under what I guess is, Oxblood Red, some of the Bonney vises show a bright maroon color which I wasn't smart enough to stop the slide off of. Much nicer than the Mythical maroon that I'm using.
akasrick
mikeswrenches
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akasrick,
I'll definitely keep that in mind. Was anything mentioned about them keeping the Jersey vise colors after they bought them? As I had a Stanley, same logo, with the milky brown paint.
I'll have to see if some of that book is online.
akasrick
I found a No. 763 in my collection, that is the ugly brown color. It is marked 'Victor Jersey" Stanley Rule & Level Company. Thus before the merger in 1920. I had another brown one I sold that also had the S R & L Co. stamp.
In answer to your question, Walter makes no mention of the brown color japanning on any vises. He just notes under finish: Japanned
I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that the color change happened at the same time as the merger. Probably the guys from the Stanley Works asked the guys at Rule & Level why they had their vises painted that 'god awful' brown color, and lacking a good answer, decided to change it. Just a guess.
Good luck on your restoration!
I'll definitely keep that in mind. Was anything mentioned about them keeping the Jersey vise colors after they bought them? As I had a Stanley, same logo, with the milky brown paint.
I'll have to see if some of that book is online.
akasrick
I found a No. 763 in my collection, that is the ugly brown color. It is marked 'Victor Jersey" Stanley Rule & Level Company. Thus before the merger in 1920. I had another brown one I sold that also had the S R & L Co. stamp.
In answer to your question, Walter makes no mention of the brown color japanning on any vises. He just notes under finish: Japanned
I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that the color change happened at the same time as the merger. Probably the guys from the Stanley Works asked the guys at Rule & Level why they had their vises painted that 'god awful' brown color, and lacking a good answer, decided to change it. Just a guess.
Good luck on your restoration!
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akasrick
Well-known member
You're right mine is a 'Victor Jersey" Stanley Rule & Level Company' #741
I have my Stanleys mixed, apologies.
As to you "going out on a limb" - 'god awful' brown color. LOL
akasrick
akasrick
Well-known member
Tim H.
Member
OK. Got the swivel pin out thanks to overnight use of Kroil. Curious if you know more about the vintage/value of this vise.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Here’s the current state of a 4 inch HD bullet I’ve had in the renovation queue for years. It’s dated Guar Exp. 1962
It seems like the Satin Sage would be a close color match (and era appropriate) to the slightly earlier one Burn1 posted yesterday.
(3 different color paint jobs stripped off with hot simple green.)
.
It seems like the Satin Sage would be a close color match (and era appropriate) to the slightly earlier one Burn1 posted yesterday.
(3 different color paint jobs stripped off with hot simple green.)
.
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mikeswrenches
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2015
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Kevin, here’s another one for the spreadsheet.
It is faintly marked on the front jaw;
"Union Vise Co., Boston, Mass, 1 1/2 inch". Although it says 1 1/2 the jaws are closer to 1 5/8 in. It weighs in at 2 lbs. 3 ozs.
The last picture is intended to show the method of retaining the main shaft.
Union was a short lived company. It was started by Amos H Brainard sometime in 1865, probably to manufacture this style vise. He was issued a patent for it on January 3, 1865, no. 45,693. During the winter of 1870-1871 the company was sold to Quimby Backus of the Backus Vise Co. This company ultimately merged with Millers Falls. Apparently Union at one time made over 40 different types and sizes of vises. In 1871 Union Vise co. Was destroyed by a fire.
You can get a better idea of what went on by following the link below.
http://oldtoolheaven.com/biography/backus.htm
It is faintly marked on the front jaw;
"Union Vise Co., Boston, Mass, 1 1/2 inch". Although it says 1 1/2 the jaws are closer to 1 5/8 in. It weighs in at 2 lbs. 3 ozs.
The last picture is intended to show the method of retaining the main shaft.
Union was a short lived company. It was started by Amos H Brainard sometime in 1865, probably to manufacture this style vise. He was issued a patent for it on January 3, 1865, no. 45,693. During the winter of 1870-1871 the company was sold to Quimby Backus of the Backus Vise Co. This company ultimately merged with Millers Falls. Apparently Union at one time made over 40 different types and sizes of vises. In 1871 Union Vise co. Was destroyed by a fire.
You can get a better idea of what went on by following the link below.
http://oldtoolheaven.com/biography/backus.htm
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Any tips on getting the rear pins out of a bullet Wilton. I swear there is no holes on the inside of the sleeve to push the pins out. I don’t get it. Any ideas?
I have one where hole was only drilled through on one side of the nut. I said heck with it and did not fully disassemble it. Only option I can think of is drill it out.
KMScott
Well-known member
I agree with you jeppen. The hump back and curvy area for the pipe jaws give it away. It looked to me like a Oswego. I trust your opinion on the Smith's Pattern Combo vise. I do not study the history of these awesome tools like you and a few others on here. I wish we had a picture of the other side 2680. I would like to add it to the spreadsheet as a Oswego #2 but I will wait.
KMScott
Well-known member
Another winner here Mike. Would you say this Union has a anvil? Sure like how thorough you are. Good traits to have.
Dan8906
Well-known member
I punched one out and the other I drilled out. I’m leaning toward tapping both holes with a set screw.
RTM
Well-known member
Here is a catalog cut from 1869.
https://archive.org/details/UnionViseCo1869
And 1876
https://archive.org/details/CombinedUnionAndBackusVises1876
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Tim, there is a Reed thread focused on dates codes, on Reeds find that and see if it shows up after cleaning and stripping
For value your best bet is to peruse sold listings on Eprey. Many vise values are region dependent, and you probably get as many different opinions on value as there are posters and some are wiling to pay a premium and some only look for deals, and walk if its not...
Condition matters and so does supply and demand. We have generally quit even trying to place a value when asked