What's going on in my little Garage....
- Thread starter Keyblazer
- Start date
Bigbandguy
Well-known member
Not that I would ever do so but beware of some of the characters on here who might criticize you for not getting your GF to participate in polishing your piston.
Jayman17
Well-known member
^^^ 
So, its been a lot of play and testing until now.
Time to get serious.
Found the pair of Mikuni carbs in a box for the Yamaha XS650.
They needed rebuilding, were gummed up and useless.
Started with the Left side Carb.[
Stripped it off.
Removed the float bowl.
Time to get serious.
Found the pair of Mikuni carbs in a box for the Yamaha XS650.
They needed rebuilding, were gummed up and useless.
Started with the Left side Carb.[
Stripped it off.
Removed the float bowl.
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Then I stripped the Carb Body as far apart as I could, and blasted in 3 sessions... its amazing the little spots I missed on each go.
Total blasting time was probably 30 mis or so, plus washing and blowing out all passages.
Happy with end result.
Total blasting time was probably 30 mis or so, plus washing and blowing out all passages.
Happy with end result.
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larry4406
Well-known member
That slurry blaster of yours does a hell of a fantastic job!
Amazing the sheen produced by the water addition compared to just media.
Amazing the sheen produced by the water addition compared to just media.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
You are having way too much fun with the blaster ! ��
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beautiful job on the carb. I think you've got it dialed in
You have no idea!
Running an 8mm nozzle, In the gun, but thought a 6mm might work better.
It doesn’t feel like it’s performing as well.
Having some issues with media in the tote not agitating very well.
I’ve tried adjusting the gun/agitation split valve but it didn’t help.
So, opened up the pipework holes more.
It’s still not how I want it yet.
Looking for a “Rolling Boil” effect.
Started carb #2 yesterday.
Stripped it all apart, an made a mental note of the time I put it in the Cabinet.
There is about 15 mins of cabinet time between these two pics.
It’s not quite there yet, but things like this go pretty fast.
Running an 8mm nozzle, In the gun, but thought a 6mm might work better.
It doesn’t feel like it’s performing as well.
Having some issues with media in the tote not agitating very well.
I’ve tried adjusting the gun/agitation split valve but it didn’t help.
So, opened up the pipework holes more.
It’s still not how I want it yet.
Looking for a “Rolling Boil” effect.
Started carb #2 yesterday.
Stripped it all apart, an made a mental note of the time I put it in the Cabinet.
There is about 15 mins of cabinet time between these two pics.
It’s not quite there yet, but things like this go pretty fast.
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Kevkx125
Well-known member
Carb looks great Keyblazer nice work!!
Pressingonward
Well-known member
Thanks for posting that valve cover. Really shows the difference between dry and wet.
driftpin
Well-known member
Yes, it does!
I did this test on a Die cast valve cover that I had previously dry blasted as a prelude to either polishing or powder coating.
Left side is dry blasted, middle area is vapor blasted and RH corner was polished.
Did you dry-blast the entire thing, then vapor-blast that part, and then polish the end?
Hi,
No, it went something like this:
About 5 years ago I blasted a section of that Valve Cover in my dry blaster with 80g glass bead. Blast area was from middle to end of one piece.
I wanted to see if that was too course, and how it would buff/polish.
I polished one end... it looked ok, but I decided I would prob Powder coat it, so put it aside to do later.
Found it in a box when I was looking for "Test Pieces".
Vapor Blasted the section that was between the two mounting holes...
So, small visible section to left of mounting hole, is as dry blasted.
Area between the mounting holes was Vapor Blasted over the dry blast.
Area to the right of the RH Mounting hole is polished.
Did a change of media.
This basically means on my setup I lifted the pump assembly out of the tote with Water and 170/320 grit in and dropped it into another tote with Water and 80grit Media.
I want to document the change as best I can.
This is a pair of throttle bodies I did.
Upper one was done with 170/320G
Lower one was done with 80g and took about 1/2 the time.
I would guess that in person the difference in sheen on the Cast aluminum, is about +10% on the finer media...
I would say that the finish on the brass butterfly is actually better from the 80grit media...
This basically means on my setup I lifted the pump assembly out of the tote with Water and 170/320 grit in and dropped it into another tote with Water and 80grit Media.
I want to document the change as best I can.
This is a pair of throttle bodies I did.
Upper one was done with 170/320G
Lower one was done with 80g and took about 1/2 the time.
I would guess that in person the difference in sheen on the Cast aluminum, is about +10% on the finer media...
I would say that the finish on the brass butterfly is actually better from the 80grit media...
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Another test peice:
Here is an pretty normal condition Alfa Valve cover that was not Touched/Polished/Cleaned for probably 45 years....
This is pretty much how they get...
I then popped it in and ripped half of it...
Very pleased with it, and it probably very close to the way it would have looked when the engine was originally built.
Here is an pretty normal condition Alfa Valve cover that was not Touched/Polished/Cleaned for probably 45 years....
This is pretty much how they get...
I then popped it in and ripped half of it...
Very pleased with it, and it probably very close to the way it would have looked when the engine was originally built.
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Pressingonward
Well-known member
Oh man...every post makes me want a vapor blaster even more...that finish is great! How long would you estimate it took to blast that half of the Alfa valve cover?
Don't remember if you've shared your compressor setup or not yet - how many CFM are you running?
Don't remember if you've shared your compressor setup or not yet - how many CFM are you running?
Jagmandave
Well-known member
Will you clear coat them when done to keep them looking this good?
Have an older Speedaire 80g Vertical with a 7.5hp.
I think it puts out 24cfm.
That half cover probably took me less than 10 mins.
Keep swapping back and forth between the 6mm and 8 mm nozzle and the 8 seems to blast better.
Not sure what I’m gonna do with the finish yet.
Planned to figure out the finish I like then try clearcoat and clear powder and see what looks best.
Finished up a full pass on the valve cover this afternoon.
Still some detailing to do on the inner with the 80 grit but I think I’ll run a pass on one half with the finer grit and see what it compares like.
This valve cover would need some sanding/detailing around the Alfa badge as there are some deeper ding/dents/Scratches that would need attention if it was going to be exposed.
I might well try Black or Red Crackle Powdercoat on it.
Did this Intake too today that is pretty rough casting...
Came out nice.
I think it puts out 24cfm.
That half cover probably took me less than 10 mins.
Keep swapping back and forth between the 6mm and 8 mm nozzle and the 8 seems to blast better.
Not sure what I’m gonna do with the finish yet.
Planned to figure out the finish I like then try clearcoat and clear powder and see what looks best.
Finished up a full pass on the valve cover this afternoon.
Still some detailing to do on the inner with the 80 grit but I think I’ll run a pass on one half with the finer grit and see what it compares like.
This valve cover would need some sanding/detailing around the Alfa badge as there are some deeper ding/dents/Scratches that would need attention if it was going to be exposed.
I might well try Black or Red Crackle Powdercoat on it.
Did this Intake too today that is pretty rough casting...
Came out nice.
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PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wow, those aluminum parts look fantastic.
I’ve got an old set of Eddie Meyer Hollywood 24 bolt Flathead heads that would look great with that finish...
I’ve got an old set of Eddie Meyer Hollywood 24 bolt Flathead heads that would look great with that finish...
LOL, the Possibilities are endless!
Im working on an Alfa finned Oil pan that is not dissimilar to Flathead finned heads methinks...
Like this...
As they come...
This was blasted...
Wasnt happy with the little core/shrink marks in the casting, so hit them with 380G wet/dry wrapped around a Paint stir stick...
Its a Disease I tell you!
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jordan_paul
Member
Great work.
CudaChick1968
Member Emeritus
Check out the ceramic clear coats from NICIndustries.com in the Cerakote section for polished metals. It will seal those uncoated logos and the other bare parts forever so you won't have to touch up the polishing/machining. I don't do a ton of polishing and buffing here -- too much powder work lol -- but it has completely replaced the clear powder I used to use on them.
All you need is an HVLP gun with a .8 mm tip. It dries/cures in the open air, is available in different heat ranges (under and over 500 degrees), is marketed as "The World's Strongest Clear Coat," doesn't yellow over time, and is so clear that all you see is the beautiful metal underneath. A little bit goes a LONG way (the tester size is like $35 and lasts forever it seems), it cleans up with paint thinner, and you can even pour the leftovers back in the bottle.
You'll dig it.
Before, After, and installed on the famous Golden Commando Barracuda known as GoldFish. It was the only one with a 273.
All you need is an HVLP gun with a .8 mm tip. It dries/cures in the open air, is available in different heat ranges (under and over 500 degrees), is marketed as "The World's Strongest Clear Coat," doesn't yellow over time, and is so clear that all you see is the beautiful metal underneath. A little bit goes a LONG way (the tester size is like $35 and lasts forever it seems), it cleans up with paint thinner, and you can even pour the leftovers back in the bottle.
You'll dig it.
Before, After, and installed on the famous Golden Commando Barracuda known as GoldFish. It was the only one with a 273.
CudaChick1968
Member Emeritus
You're welcome darlin! I hope your results are the same as I've been getting. Hit me up if you have any questions.
csp
Well-known member
You have to change the air venturi in the gun to 6mm as well, not just the tip, to get any efficiency from the smaller size.
CudaChick1968
Member Emeritus
Wow, good to know! The only "painting" I dare to do -- after years of sucking at it LOL -- is that clear ceramic. Though it took a lot of searching, I snagged a .8 mm tip gun off ebay for $17.99 (the only one I own) and it's served me well. I'll check out that venturi the next time I have it apart for cleaning. I have some headlight bezels that will be getting sprayed as soon as it quits %$#@ raining. Thanks @csp!
New gun should be here in a day or so.
Ordered a new batch of 170/320 grit.
Been busy on other stuff, but found something really ugly in my junk pile to test.
Really rusty BBC head someone gave me for scrap.
Used the 80 grit. Came out ok for 15 mins work but it’s still ugly. Lol
Ordered a new batch of 170/320 grit.
Been busy on other stuff, but found something really ugly in my junk pile to test.
Really rusty BBC head someone gave me for scrap.
Used the 80 grit. Came out ok for 15 mins work but it’s still ugly. Lol
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Couple of questions today!
1/ I thought I saw a post about “Coupling Fluid” for Ultrasonic Thickness testers the other day. Can’t find it now.
Just picked up a Used Check-Line Ti25 MMX for some projects and need to know The story.
2/ What’s the best rod to use for TiG welding aluminum castings?
1/ I thought I saw a post about “Coupling Fluid” for Ultrasonic Thickness testers the other day. Can’t find it now.
Just picked up a Used Check-Line Ti25 MMX for some projects and need to know The story.
2/ What’s the best rod to use for TiG welding aluminum castings?
Found the thread on coupling fluid, and posted.
Did a carb adaptor for a buddy.
Actually they were quick and easy.
Popped them out in the UV rays for him to Pick up safely.
New 6mm gun arrived....
But I was disappointed to note that whilst it has a 6mm nozzle, the air jet appears to be fixed and the same size.
Guess you get what you pay for! Ha.
What is interesting is the “Feel” of the 6mm nozzle compared to the 8mm on my setup.
The 8mm seems to output more slurry(logical), but I can feel the increased output as a vibration somehow.
The 6mm nozzle on the other hand outputs the slurry more as a vapor, and to prove that point the visibility in the cabinet is obscured by mist. When I lift the lid, it’s like a sauna in the cabinet!
I have 2 identical aluminum brake calipers to do today.
Plan to do one With the 6mm and one with the 8 as a definitive test of speed/efficiency.
Did a carb adaptor for a buddy.
Actually they were quick and easy.
Popped them out in the UV rays for him to Pick up safely.
New 6mm gun arrived....
But I was disappointed to note that whilst it has a 6mm nozzle, the air jet appears to be fixed and the same size.
Guess you get what you pay for! Ha.
What is interesting is the “Feel” of the 6mm nozzle compared to the 8mm on my setup.
The 8mm seems to output more slurry(logical), but I can feel the increased output as a vibration somehow.
The 6mm nozzle on the other hand outputs the slurry more as a vapor, and to prove that point the visibility in the cabinet is obscured by mist. When I lift the lid, it’s like a sauna in the cabinet!
I have 2 identical aluminum brake calipers to do today.
Plan to do one With the 6mm and one with the 8 as a definitive test of speed/efficiency.
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Monza Harry
Well-known member
That depends on the material it is cast from, and I don't have a way to differentiate the materials. I do the neither good or approved method of guess which rod first and keep trying others until one doesn't fight back too hard.
Grind out and do a clean re-weld all one rod type right through. Eager to find some tips from other "listeners"
Harry
I did read a post on this [here or on Home Shop Machinist] but I guess I didn't add to Fav's!
Thanks for the info!
Rightly or wrongly I TiG welded shut some unwanted holes in my Alfa Romeo Valve Cover yesterday, again with ER1100 Rod.
After Cleaned with a SS wire brush and acetone.
Started on the inside, watched the edges of the hole “Wet out” then dabbed some rod in there then kept the heat on until I saw it sink in then tapered out.
Looked like this.
From outside it looked like this after.
Just repeated the same from the outside.
After some grinding and sanding, it was looking good.
Rightly or wrongly I TiG welded shut some unwanted holes in my Alfa Romeo Valve Cover yesterday, again with ER1100 Rod.
After Cleaned with a SS wire brush and acetone.
Started on the inside, watched the edges of the hole “Wet out” then dabbed some rod in there then kept the heat on until I saw it sink in then tapered out.
Looked like this.
From outside it looked like this after.
Just repeated the same from the outside.
After some grinding and sanding, it was looking good.
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Pressingonward
Well-known member
Hey, you found the right rod to use! (It worked) lol
On another note, the slurry pump died yesterday.
It was a cheap $65 Chinesium unit anyway, and I went cheap because I just wanted to do a “Proof of Concept”, to see if my build would be functional!
It refused to start yesterday morning.
I stripped it apart, cleaned the screen and impeller, and got it working but felt gritty when it spins, so obviously the bearings are compromised...
Imagine that! Ha!
Ordered the tried and tested Tsurami HS4 pump yesterday. Guess $300 is the price of reliability.
Tsurumi HS2.4S; semi-Vortex Submersible Trash Pump w/Agitator, 1/2hp, 115V, 2" Discharge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PDU9EY/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Will have to revise the plumbing in the sump to suit the larger 2” discharge.
It was a cheap $65 Chinesium unit anyway, and I went cheap because I just wanted to do a “Proof of Concept”, to see if my build would be functional!
It refused to start yesterday morning.
I stripped it apart, cleaned the screen and impeller, and got it working but felt gritty when it spins, so obviously the bearings are compromised...
Imagine that! Ha!
Ordered the tried and tested Tsurami HS4 pump yesterday. Guess $300 is the price of reliability.
Tsurumi HS2.4S; semi-Vortex Submersible Trash Pump w/Agitator, 1/2hp, 115V, 2" Discharge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PDU9EY/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Will have to revise the plumbing in the sump to suit the larger 2” discharge.
larry4406
Well-known member
I clicked on the link and read the pump reviews. Seems many use it for vapor blasting just as you intend too. Good find!
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