Some basic drywall questions...

cgv69 · Nov 12, 2020

So I’m finishing my basement and I’m at the drywall phase. I have some experience with drywalling but I’m not 100% sure how best to handle one of the rooms down there?

The room is 13’5” x 13’10”. I plan to drywall the ceiling as well as the walls (There is only a bedroom above this room). The ceiling joists are engineered wood I-beams spaced at 19” OC.

Assuming I’m using ½ “light weight” drywall, should I really install "strapping" for hanging the drywall to or is screwing the drywall directly to the ceiling joists fine in this situation? (yes, I will be using drywall screws not nails)

I know enough to know that using as few sheets of drywall (meaning fewer joints to mud) as possible is always best. The joists run perpendicular to the 13.5’ width of the room so if I don't install strapping, 4.5’ wide drywall would be almost perfect but around here I’m only finding the 4.5’ wide LW drywall in 12’ lengths (not 8', 10 or 14'). Even if I could find them in 14’ lengths, I’m not sure how hard it is to installing drywall that long onto the ceiling?

So what would you order drywall wise for the ceiling in this room with the goal of the least amount of joints and waste material without making the install any more of a PITA then it needs to be for a DIY’er +1 helper?

Thanks!

The Cobbler · Nov 12, 2020

I wouldn't strap the ceiling , screw to the joists . I would get 12' sheets and cut it to the joist that's at 11'2"(ish) joist , keeping the joint closer to the walls . stagger the next sheet to piece the other end .
you could use 4-1/2' drywall that way

Shiftless · Nov 12, 2020

How high is the ceiling? You’ve got a drywall lift, right?

I’ve done a few walls but never a ceiling.

cgv69 · Nov 12, 2020

The Cobbler said:
I wouldn't strap the ceiling , screw to the joists . I would get 12' sheets and cut it to the joist that's at 11'2"(ish) joist , keeping the joint closer to the walls . stagger the next sheet to piece the other end .
you could use 4-1/2' drywall that way

That's pretty much what I was thinking but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a better/easy way to do it?

Shiftless said:
How high is the ceiling? You’ve got a drywall lift, right?

I’ve done a few walls but never a ceiling.

Ceiling height will be just under 8'. I'm 6'2" and my helper is 6' but still. I don't have a lift but was going to make a couple of deadman braces. I don't have enough ceiling to hang to justify renting much less buying a lift.

Then again, like you I've done many walls but this is my first ceiling so I could be wrong?

Will_Yetter · Nov 12, 2020

cgv69 said:
That's pretty much what I was thinking but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a better/easy way to do it?

Ceiling height will be just under 8'. I'm 6'2" and my helper is 6' but still. I don't have a lift but was going to make a couple of deadman braces. I don't have enough ceiling to hang to justify renting much less buying a lift.

Then again, like you I've done many walls but this is my first ceiling so I could be wrong?

I've never used a drywall lift on all the jobs I've done. Generally with a step ladder and a helper, it's not bad to do ceilings

Los_Control · Nov 12, 2020

I have used a deadman and A 6' ladder to hang 8' sheets by myself.
set one end on ladder and then get dead man set then walk up ladder and ... pita but it works.
With a helper and 12' sheets you will be fine.

Will_Yetter · Nov 12, 2020

I personally wouldn't do any strap stuff. Get drywall as close to the sizes you want as possible, but cutting it goes really quick so I wouldn't sweat extra material. Can always be used to patch holes too. I'd screw into the joists. Some people are gonna tell you you need a drywall screw gun. They're nice, but I've always used an impact driver at my job with a remodel contractor. You can get one of those lil bits that doesn't let you go too deep.

ssdave · Nov 12, 2020

bimmer1980 · Nov 12, 2020

While longer sheets are certainly better, just keep in mind your route down to the basement..... I know I would have a hard time bringing a 10' long piece of drywall into my basement....much less a 12' or 14'

If you have a walk out basement, probably no issues.....

Also, if you have an extra **** joint, it probably will not make much difference on that size of job.... a large commercial job, sure....minimize as much as possible...

gunguy · Nov 12, 2020

I'll go against the grain here a little bit...Don't rule out using a lift. You can find them on CL, use it, then sell it for what you paid for it.

A lift allows you to easily work alone if need be, saves your shoulder and neck muscles, frees your hands up to handle tools and lets you take your time to get it right. If you have to fine tune a sheet, it makes it easy to run it up/down as many times as it takes.

Try it using a dead-man/step ladder and helper. If that works OK for you then you're home free. If not, start looking for a lift.

Jim

burninghXcsoul · Nov 12, 2020

Buy a drywall lift. I drywalled my 30x40 by myself at night with 5/8" drywall sheets. A ****** drywall lift is like $130 brand new. I have made that multiple times over by renting it to friends for a case of beer for their weekend projects.

Mainiac Mat · Nov 12, 2020

Rent a sheet rock lift from HD... your back will thank you and you can do the job solo.

cgv69 · Nov 12, 2020

bimmer1980 said:
If you have a walk out basement, probably no issues.....

Yup, its a walk out. No issues getting material in and out

gunguy said:
I'll go against the grain here a little bit...Don't rule out using a lift. You can find them on CL, use it, then sell it for what you paid for it.

For this room, I'm not going to worry about it. Just something I'm trying to get knocked out quickly for the wife. When I do my shop area (18x40' + a 10x12' side area) then yes, I will buy or rent a lift

nadogail · Nov 12, 2020

Will_Yetter said:
I've never used a drywall lift on all the jobs I've done. Generally with a step ladder and a helper, it's not bad to do ceilings

Is that why Dry Wallers seem to have bad necks as they get older?

Showkey · Nov 12, 2020

I would rethink the drywall decision in a basement ceiling .........access to plumbing/ HVAC / electrical seems to pop up within 12 months of the install :headscrat

I did stained shiplap ( removable) on the ceiling and within 18 month the AC lines need to be replaced during the new AC install and the shower ****** broke while in use. While it was only 10 gallons of water, had it been drywall it would have been a HUGE mess. The wood was a minor inconvenience........dropped a section, dried it out, reinstall.

In another home the basement was finished 35x60 room.......witha suspended ceiling, (the look is different) but in 15 years Might have dropped 50 panels to service or route something during other remodeling or upgrades to the upper level.

Yes ......drywall is a huge design decision.

Leaflessshadetree · Nov 12, 2020

I'd screw to the joists. I'd probably use 4x8 ft sheets and put the **** joints between joists https://www.finehomebuilding.com/1996/01/01/invisible-drywall-****-joints.
I'd probably stagger them but not a big deal if you want to put them in line.

Vahispd · Nov 12, 2020

cgv69 said:
For this room, I'm not going to worry about it. Just something I'm trying to get knocked out quickly for the wife. When I do my shop area (18x40' + a 10x12' side area) then yes, I will buy or rent a lift

Get the drywall lift now so you can finish her job quicker and safely; then you have the lift to finish your shop later.

zeke67 · Nov 12, 2020

I'm not sure, but at 19" OC, do you need to go to 5/8 drywall? I did a 12x12 room and frankly, a lift would have been in the way. I had two helpers, two tee-shaped things made from 2x4 lumber and a fulcrum and lever for each. I'd walk a sheet up the ladder with help. When approximately in place the helpers would place the tee-shapes, step on the lever end and lift the drywall against the ceiling. They could relax slightly while I positioned it.

LX-Markham · Nov 12, 2020

Ceiling going to be popcorn or smooth?
Popcorn will hide a lot of irregularities in the ceiling if you are drywalling right to the floor joists. If smooth, I would consider installing steel studs. Dead nuts straight and won’t warp.

Did my basement a couple of years ago and used steel studs.

atch · Nov 12, 2020

Vahispd said:
Get the drywall lift now so you can finish her job quicker and safely; then you have the lift to finish your shop later.

X2...

atch · Nov 12, 2020

Vahispd said:
Get the drywall lift now so you can finish her job quicker and safely; then you have the lift to finish your shop later.

X2...

Krfjkm · Nov 13, 2020

Get the lift—- new razor blades for your knife and keep changing them and finally go with 5/8” on the ceiling.

gunguy · Nov 13, 2020

zeke67 said:
I'm not sure, but at 19" OC, do you need to go to 5/8 drywall? I did a 12x12 room and frankly, a lift would have been in the way. I had two helpers, two tee-shaped things made from 2x4 lumber and a fulcrum and lever for each. I'd walk a sheet up the ladder with help. When approximately in place the helpers would place the tee-shapes, step on the lever end and lift the drywall against the ceiling. They could relax slightly while I positioned it.

I did a utility room approximately that size with a lift and had no problem with it being in the way.

I'd say get the lift now, then you'll have it for the next job. After that, sell it if you don't want to keep it. You'll be money, time and aggravation ahead.

Jim

cgv69 · Nov 13, 2020

Vahispd said:
Get the drywall lift now so you can finish her job quicker and safely; then you have the lift to finish your shop later.

I did find a used one on craigslist so that may be the new plan if that works out?

Showkey said:
I would rethink the drywall decision in a basement ceiling .........access to plumbing/ HVAC / electrical seems to pop up within 12 months of the install

In another home the basement was finished 35x60 room.......witha suspended ceiling, (the look is different) but in 15 years Might have dropped 50 panels to service or route something during other remodeling or upgrades to the upper level.

This room doesn't have anything like that above it to worry about but even if it did...

I debated this a lot because you hear a lot of people express the same concerns about what if you have to get to something after the drywall goes up?

Then I thought about it and asked myself, how if this any different then living in a 2 story house and needing to do something for the 2nd floor? Its not really IMO. My last house was a 2 story that I live in for over 15 years and never needed to cut into the ceiling. In fairness, my homes (former and current) are newer homes so they don't tend to have as many issues as old homes.

My thing is, I hate the look of drop ceilings (even the fanciest ones look like **** IMO) and don't want to loose any ceiling height if avoidable. I could do shiplap in this room but that would be pretty unreasonable for the rest of the spaces in the basement that will get a ceiling.

My plan is this. I am doing everything I can think of before the drywall goes up. Upstairs remodeling work is mostly done (except master bath but that section isn't getting drywalled until after that is done). I've redone all the plumbing with uponor pex and a manifold system. I have electric and cat6 every possible place and their will be no ceiling in the util/storage room which is where everything terminates (circuit breaker boxes, plumbing manifold, water heater, furnace, etc.). Considering the location of this room in the basement and the orientation of the floor joists, I could still run cables to 70-80% of the house without having to make more then 1 or 2 small holes. The only thing not in the util room is where the water main comes in but I will have access to that as well.

Sure even with all that, unforeseeable things can happen that would require me to cut a hole and have to patch but such is life. I would rather have an attractive, professional looking finish product then something I dislike just because someday, maybe it might cause me a some extra work.

LX-Markham said:
Ceiling going to be popcorn or smooth?
Popcorn will hide a lot of irregularities in the ceiling if you are drywalling right to the floor joists. If smooth, I would consider installing steel studs. Dead nuts straight and won’t warp.

Smooth. I can't stand popcorn ceiling and have been slowing removing them from the upstairs spaces.

My floor joists are engineered wood i-beams so they are pretty straight and level.

Mandres · Nov 18, 2020

cgv69 said:
Sure even with all that, unforeseeable things can happen that would require me to cut a hole and have to patch but such is life. I would rather have an attractive, professional looking finish product then something I dislike just because someday, maybe it might cause me a some extra work.

I agree. Drywall is cheap and easy (relatively) to install. If something bad happens down the line, just rip it out and replace. Once you have the skillset to put it up and make repairs then it's not worth worrying about.

+1 on grabbing a used lift, and then selling it when you're done.

jpaw · Nov 19, 2020

You can get 16ft sheetrock and avoid any **** joints.
If the walls are up already it may be a chore to lift it without damaging it though.

rburke65 · Nov 19, 2020

Look on Craigs List or FB market place for a used lift, use it and sell it.

rayra · Nov 21, 2020

OP, strapping is a Northeastern habit / necessity for very old structures or replacing stuff like lathe/plaster. If you've got a reasonably straight and level / true set of studs or joists, there's no need for strapping.

CraigStu · Nov 22, 2020

You have a helper so no need for a lift. You will be installing 3 full sheets. 2 of you can do that in an hour or less. All the rest is small pieces you can do your self if need be.

pcmeiners · Nov 22, 2020

"Ceiling height will be just under 8'. I'm 6'2" and my helper is 6' but still. I don't have a lift but was going to make a couple of deadman braces. "

With 2 people a lift is totally unneeded. When in construction I used to do 5/8" 4x8 sheets alone, with no braces. As far a quality work, 5/8" hides a great deal of defects vs 1/2"... much smoother, less compounding. For a basement type X fire code rock will really slow a fire, might safe you first floor beams/flooring from damage.

Glemon · Nov 22, 2020

If you have a helper and it is a small job it is easy without a lift, though harder physical work, two people can lift and position a ceiling panel much quicker than a lift.

see pictures · Nov 23, 2020

Id say just use 4x8 sheets for a room that small. If you’re doing a whole house minimize seams. Screw a 3ft long 2x4 on the wall about an inch below the ceiling to hold the end of the sheet and make a t head to hold the other end and you can install it alone.

Justind97 · Nov 23, 2020

There are quite a few people who have posted to not bother with a lift because it's "easy enough without one"

For $130, the question really becomes But why not?!

I have been using the same lift for the last 10 years with countless sheets up on ceilings. I can lift any size up, adjust into position and crank it up, adjust as necessary for seams. On My Own!

OR, you can struggle holding a piece of drywall above your head while you fumble around with one hand with a drill and screws. Just not worth it.

Make the job easier and more enjoyable.

acer66 · Nov 23, 2020

Yes on the lift and do not try to land the ends on joists, use **** boards, next best thing besides a lift, instead if you can not get 16’ sheets.

Some basic drywall questions...

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Banned

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

"MEMBER EMERITUS"

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member