Below 265 SQ/FT 10' x 22' Project – ‘Officina di Attrezzi Veloce’
- Thread starter Trapps
- Start date
All workspaces below 265 squarefeet.
Shed Progress resumes!
Spent the day learning how to work with roofing underlayment, specifically Grace Ice & Water Shield
I must admit, overcast skies and shade were a big help. I can't endorse doing this on a hot sunny day...
Even with the cooler temps and the help of my son, it's no easy product to manage with any degree of perfection. My experience is limited to a single, low angle, pitch of 1 1/2 squares:
I'm not too worried about the ripples, none are truly offensive except to my OCD issues.
I'll pick up the rest of the roofing materials tomorrow and begin the next phase, a metal roof courtesy of Pro Rib at Menards
Spent the day learning how to work with roofing underlayment, specifically Grace Ice & Water Shield
I must admit, overcast skies and shade were a big help. I can't endorse doing this on a hot sunny day...
Even with the cooler temps and the help of my son, it's no easy product to manage with any degree of perfection. My experience is limited to a single, low angle, pitch of 1 1/2 squares:
I'm not too worried about the ripples, none are truly offensive except to my OCD issues.
I'll pick up the rest of the roofing materials tomorrow and begin the next phase, a metal roof courtesy of Pro Rib at Menards
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Bret, I hope you are aware that your thread is one I go to for inspiration and ideas.
Man that is awesome! I feel honored by that. My thread is a mess and my projects are sometime not that exciting.
Well I do the same here. Your shop is one of my favorites.
Bret
Milestone moment, the roof is done! 
Of course, typically, all we'll see is the flashing on the front eaves.
For metal to metal screws I used Teks 9 x 3/4" and for the panels, gable trim, drip edge and all metal to wood screws, I used Teks 9 x 1". I exceeded the recommended number of screws (not by an obscene amount). All seams were taped with Alpha Systems Butyl tape
After Googling metal roof problems and Youtube videos, I decided to invest a lot of time setting the screws properly. Overdriving the gasket seems to be a big issue. At first I used a cordless drill on a low clutch setting but this was too inefficient. Often I'd have to re-hit the screw on a higher setting. Then I just began to use the higher setting outright and went slowly, feathering the drive to get just enough compression on the gasket.
Youtube was very helpful for the whole project, but trim especially. I cut decent hems to joint the long runs and they look OK for an absolute rank amateur.
I forgot pics of the drip edge on the bottom eave and the closure strips, but they're in there. I used a standard drip edge in black (the chosen accent color) which will be seen by birds and squirrels. The closures, inside and outside are from the metal manufacturer, Midwest Manufacturing.
I'm now done up top and can focus on the eaves, fascia trim and permanent windows, a weather barrier wrap and finally, the siding...
The 12'5" panels (cut down from 14' stock) were awkward and 'bendy' if not correctly supported, so I owe a word of thanks to my wife and son who handed the panels up to me.
A final note on the Grace Water & Ice; that stuff seems to be completely as advertised, self sealing around your fastener of choice. I had to back out a couple of screws to fit a corner, each one came out with a confidence inspiring amount of tar/underlayment stuck to it.
Of course, typically, all we'll see is the flashing on the front eaves.
For metal to metal screws I used Teks 9 x 3/4" and for the panels, gable trim, drip edge and all metal to wood screws, I used Teks 9 x 1". I exceeded the recommended number of screws (not by an obscene amount). All seams were taped with Alpha Systems Butyl tape
After Googling metal roof problems and Youtube videos, I decided to invest a lot of time setting the screws properly. Overdriving the gasket seems to be a big issue. At first I used a cordless drill on a low clutch setting but this was too inefficient. Often I'd have to re-hit the screw on a higher setting. Then I just began to use the higher setting outright and went slowly, feathering the drive to get just enough compression on the gasket.
Youtube was very helpful for the whole project, but trim especially. I cut decent hems to joint the long runs and they look OK for an absolute rank amateur.
I forgot pics of the drip edge on the bottom eave and the closure strips, but they're in there. I used a standard drip edge in black (the chosen accent color) which will be seen by birds and squirrels. The closures, inside and outside are from the metal manufacturer, Midwest Manufacturing.
I'm now done up top and can focus on the eaves, fascia trim and permanent windows, a weather barrier wrap and finally, the siding...
The 12'5" panels (cut down from 14' stock) were awkward and 'bendy' if not correctly supported, so I owe a word of thanks to my wife and son who handed the panels up to me.
A final note on the Grace Water & Ice; that stuff seems to be completely as advertised, self sealing around your fastener of choice. I had to back out a couple of screws to fit a corner, each one came out with a confidence inspiring amount of tar/underlayment stuck to it.
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ricketycricket
Well-known member
I know I’m not the only one who misses your updates! we need some updates from you soon!
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
One thing 2020 has taught me (and a few others, I'm certain) is that a healthy dose of perspective is always a good thing. No matter what your challenges are, someone else is having a tougher time of it. I'm stealing this because it was very helpful to me: "If there is anything you take from this post, I hope you can appreciate each and every day with the health and love you have."
Despite the roller-coaster I've been on since June, I've managed a few minor projects. A chimney crown gave me more to learn on a topic I wasn't really interested in learning about (update on that PITA in a later post) and the garage has been lonely as of late. Slides for L-Boxx ports are on the rainy day short list though...
The shed is finally, almost, ready for siding after completing the wrap. I used Kimberly Clark BLOCK-IT wrap and tape.
Before:
I was alone so creativity was a key part of hanging the wrap. I had 2 goals, the fewest number of seams and of those, the shortest amount of horizontal seams. For the first 3 courses this was pretty straight forward. But, first things first. I rounded all outside corners with some 80 grit just to smooth sharp edges hoping to combat any risk of tears as I pulled the wrap tight:
I watched many YouTube videos on 'how to' hang the wrap and followed the manufacturers recommendations for most things. They suggested cap head fasteners, but I used 3/8 staples from a Bostitch air stapler. I test fired a few 1/2" but they did pop the inside pretty good so I opted for the cleaner look and arguably safer 3/8" HD - no witness marks/splinters/staple points shining through.
My argument for using plain staples was I could locate them close enough to the seams that I could cover the staples with the seam tape:
The first 3 courses are full strips around the shed, no vertical seams. The 4th course was a bit more complicated. How do you hold the roll in place while working alone? This guy had a great solution which I not so elegantly swiped and bastardized to fit my needs, 12' in the air. Here's the solution:
Up close:
The blue hash marks make alignment a breeze. You'll also notice black hash makes on the wrap which I added after each course. These are so I can easily locate the studs when I get to the siding.
After:
Some minor trim work on the soffits, install windows and then I can begin on the siding. Slow moving, but at least there is progress.
Hope all y'all are well.
Despite the roller-coaster I've been on since June, I've managed a few minor projects. A chimney crown gave me more to learn on a topic I wasn't really interested in learning about (update on that PITA in a later post) and the garage has been lonely as of late. Slides for L-Boxx ports are on the rainy day short list though...
The shed is finally, almost, ready for siding after completing the wrap. I used Kimberly Clark BLOCK-IT wrap and tape.
Before:
I was alone so creativity was a key part of hanging the wrap. I had 2 goals, the fewest number of seams and of those, the shortest amount of horizontal seams. For the first 3 courses this was pretty straight forward. But, first things first. I rounded all outside corners with some 80 grit just to smooth sharp edges hoping to combat any risk of tears as I pulled the wrap tight:
I watched many YouTube videos on 'how to' hang the wrap and followed the manufacturers recommendations for most things. They suggested cap head fasteners, but I used 3/8 staples from a Bostitch air stapler. I test fired a few 1/2" but they did pop the inside pretty good so I opted for the cleaner look and arguably safer 3/8" HD - no witness marks/splinters/staple points shining through.
My argument for using plain staples was I could locate them close enough to the seams that I could cover the staples with the seam tape:
The first 3 courses are full strips around the shed, no vertical seams. The 4th course was a bit more complicated. How do you hold the roll in place while working alone? This guy had a great solution which I not so elegantly swiped and bastardized to fit my needs, 12' in the air. Here's the solution:
Up close:
The blue hash marks make alignment a breeze. You'll also notice black hash makes on the wrap which I added after each course. These are so I can easily locate the studs when I get to the siding.
After:
Some minor trim work on the soffits, install windows and then I can begin on the siding. Slow moving, but at least there is progress.
Hope all y'all are well.
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking good!
nicholam77
Well-known member
Looking great, you're on the home stretch! Thanks for the update
Mikkeli
Well-known member
Nice garage and solid progress with the shed. I need more cabinets and good storage solutions, you have some great ideas. Thanks!
Side project.
18 months ago I had to take a good sized Maple down in my front yard and I set the trunk to dry at the end of my driveway. Uncovered. (Michigan
) I did take off about 3" on the top and bottom before setting it to dry on a couple of rounds.
I intend to make a live edge desk for my wife and a bench to put near our fire-pit.
Here are a few shots of progress today:
The slab is 7' x 30" at its widest and about 3" thick. I chose to try and glue up a good split to save width - you'll notice the clamps. I used the 1x screwed to the side as a reference line for the saw cut and it worked OK. A better way to say that is that my aim was OK. Sort of. Not great. A mill would have been nice, but not a need. I'm running a 'yellow' chain on a 20" bar.
I am not going for totally flat, it'll have real natural character (this is how I deflect not having the tools/skills to plane this thing
). First pass is with 36g paper on a 3x21 belt sander to try and remove the chainsaw scoring. I'm planning to finish it in a matte polyurethane and mount it on a metal frame I'm still designing.
18 months ago I had to take a good sized Maple down in my front yard and I set the trunk to dry at the end of my driveway. Uncovered. (Michigan
) I did take off about 3" on the top and bottom before setting it to dry on a couple of rounds.
I intend to make a live edge desk for my wife and a bench to put near our fire-pit.
Here are a few shots of progress today:
The slab is 7' x 30" at its widest and about 3" thick. I chose to try and glue up a good split to save width - you'll notice the clamps. I used the 1x screwed to the side as a reference line for the saw cut and it worked OK. A better way to say that is that my aim was OK. Sort of. Not great. A mill would have been nice, but not a need. I'm running a 'yellow' chain on a 20" bar.
I am not going for totally flat, it'll have real natural character (this is how I deflect not having the tools/skills to plane this thing
). First pass is with 36g paper on a 3x21 belt sander to try and remove the chainsaw scoring. I'm planning to finish it in a matte polyurethane and mount it on a metal frame I'm still designing.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks cool. If you don't want that split to come back, you may want to consider adding a butterfly to hold it together
nicholam77
Well-known member
Very cool! Like mike said a couple of bowties could be killer!
Got some more work done on the desk:
There were a few light hammer hits...
but mostly just persistent chipping/shaving/scraping by hand. The end goal is a very natural appearance. The bottom is giving me some challenges; I killed my 10 year old Rigid 3x21 Belt Sander 
trying to grind it flat; I need a better method of flattening it to accept the frame.
I also upgraded the service door in my shop:
There was a painted window left by the PO that I ignored for 3 years. Well it recently broke - no one in the house knows how, shocking I know! . So I installed a piece of 15/32 BC which will give a bit more insulation and integrity (the door separates the main garage from my shop/office/lounge) and I can now hang things easily on it. The shop is heated, the main garage is not.
I have been saving these bindings for years specifically to use as coat hangers. The significant other (aka Boss) decided "not in her home" so here they are!
There were a few light hammer hits...
but mostly just persistent chipping/shaving/scraping by hand. The end goal is a very natural appearance. The bottom is giving me some challenges; I killed my 10 year old Rigid 3x21 Belt Sander trying to grind it flat; I need a better method of flattening it to accept the frame.I also upgraded the service door in my shop:
There was a painted window left by the PO that I ignored for 3 years. Well it recently broke - no one in the house knows how, shocking I know!
. So I installed a piece of 15/32 BC which will give a bit more insulation and integrity (the door separates the main garage from my shop/office/lounge) and I can now hang things easily on it. The shop is heated, the main garage is not.I have been saving these bindings for years specifically to use as coat hangers. The significant other (aka Boss) decided "not in her home" so here they are!
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mfg0772
Well-known member
I’ve had luck making a flattening sled to use my router to flatten an 6” thick slab that I used for my mantle. Do a quick google search for some good pics and plans. Essentially it is just two level runners on each side of the workpiece with a frame that goes between them to hold a router. Take a little bit off at a time and you will be done in no time. In my experience, this also provides a better overall surface than a belt sander can.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Awesome suggestion! Thank you!
In other news I have not accomplished much in or on the shop lately (perhaps a few wee drams more than usual over the holidays). I did however stumble across a youtube video (absolutely cannot remember where in the eleventy-billion I've watched lately) of a guy that dressed up his toolbox with tape. I was skeptical but tried it out with OK results (a couple need to be redone). The cost was less than a roll of electrical tape. I chose black, but like vodka nowadays, there seems to be lots of flavor choices available. Here's the result:
I do find it interesting that the angled downward view make s the taped handle box appear brighter than the un-taped. For reference, these are HF44s. Standard electrical tape is a bit wide, but by slightly stretching it as you go, it narrows enough to fit in the grooves pretty well.
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The black looks good. My HF44 is orange. Should I use blue for the Miami Dolphin affect....
The black looks good. My HF44 is orange. Should I use blue for the Miami Dolphin affect....
If you're a Dolphins fan. Or if you're a John Wyer / GULF fan!
I've seen dark/navy blue (Detroit or Auburn Tigers fans?) electrical tape, but never a powder blue. Perhaps there are other options out there or even other types of tape.Color test (from what I have in my electrical kit):
The white really pops in a picture, but IRL, it's less dramatic with the silver-toned handles. Great contrast on the Yellow, Orange and Blue. The reds clash and the green is lost on me, but I am color-blind...
It would be interesting to see the colors on different colored cabinets. I've also considered color coding for tool families which presents it's own rabbit hole of investigations and arguments with myself.
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Or if you're a John Wyer / GULF fan!
Yeah, a Porsche 917 in the empty bay would be a nice addition to the collection
nicholam77
Well-known member
It would be interesting to see the colors on different colored cabinets. I've also considered color coding for tool families which presents it's own rabbit hole of investigations and arguments with myself.
That's an interesting idea! Otherwise I think the black looks the cleanest with the red toolbox.
I spy... a Bosch tracksaw track?? If that's the case I'd love to know your thoughts and why you picked it!
Yeah, a Porsche 917 in the empty bay would be a nice addition to the collection
This one is in a storefront in downtown Pontiac, MI. Granted it is a replica; I think from Race Car Replicas
It's Batmobile Black (aka Slightly Stretched Electrical Tape Black)
That's an interesting idea! Otherwise I think the black looks the cleanest with the red toolbox.
I spy... a Bosch tracksaw track?? If that's the case I'd love to know your thoughts and why you picked it!
Agree on the black as the best option for the red boxes, especially in my garage with the rather red and black 2-wheeled inhabitants. Here is the final:
I chose the Bosch tracks for the following reasons:
1. Despite the Bosch GKS18V-68GC running on Festool, Makita and Bosch tracks, I'll stay brand loyal if the majority of parameters are close to equal. I think all 3 offer great accuracy (only a one piece track would be better) but getting the long track would still necessitate a short one as I'd think using a 118" track on a short run would be a PITA.
2. The molded insert style splinter guard and 'grip strips' versus the adhesive styles of the competition.
3. I really liked the ease of use and alignment of the cam style track connector as opposed to the 2 piece bar and set screw arrangement of the options.
4. I also looked at Cost, $24 separated the Bosch and Makita as I have it configured. :
- Festool (2x) 55" ($145 each) + connector ($40) = $320 (build your own set w/ bag = $430, bag is $110)
- Makita (2x) 55" ($87 each) + connector ($25) = $199 (build your own set w/ bag = $239, bag is $39)
- Bosch (2x) 63" ($119 each) + connector ($70) = $290 - (factory offered set w/ bag = $263, bag is $53)
One drawback is the availability of aftermarket accessories - there are a ton of fixtures for the Festool and Makita tracks.
I am digging some options available in EU; wish they (Bosch cordless tools and aftermarket) were stronger on this side of the pond.
I have not used it yet, but I'm finally done designing my L-Boxx ports (after 2 months and 6 or 7 iterations
) and will pick up the baltic birch plywood this week for the drawers.
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nicholam77
Well-known member
I chose the Bosch tracks for the following reasons:
1. Despite the Bosch GKS18V-68GC running on Festool, Makita and Bosch tracks, I'll stay brand loyal if the majority of parameters are close to equal. I think all 3 offer great accuracy (only a one piece track would be better) but getting the long track would still necessitate a short one as I'd think using a 118" track on a short run would be a PITA.
2. The molded insert style splinter guard and 'grip strips' versus the adhesive styles of the competition.
3. I really liked the ease of use and alignment of the cam style track connector as opposed to the 2 piece bar and set screw arrangement of the options.
4. I also looked at Cost, $24 separated the Bosch and Makita as I have it configured. :
- Festool (2x) 55" ($145 each) + connector ($40) = $320 (build your own set w/ bag = $430, bag is $110)
- Makita (2x) 55" ($87 each) + connector ($25) = $199 (build your own set w/ bag = $239, bag is $39)
- Bosch (2x) 63" ($119 each) + connector ($70) = $290 - (factory offered set w/ bag = $263, bag is $53)
One drawback is the availability of aftermarket accessories - there are a ton of fixtures for the Festool and Makita tracks.
I am digging some options available in EU; wish they (Bosch cordless tools and aftermarket) were stronger on this side of the pond.
I have not used it yet, but I'm finally done designing my L-Boxx ports (after 2 months and 6 or 7 iterations
Ha, I was actually curious about the saw but this is great insight on the tracks. As you may know I'm a track saw fan and have the Makita, so I was curious since I don't see the Bosch pop up as often and it wasn't available when I got mine. 100% agree that cam-style track connecter bar looks much better. I recently got an extra 55" Makita track and picked up the TSO Products bar connectors which have a "keystone" feature to help self-align. Haven't tried them yet. Hopefully they work okay. Connecting two tracks in general freaks me out but the long ones are so expensive.
So did you get that Bosch GKS18V-68GC? Any reason not to do Bosch's plunge saw?
I will say I think you'll love the 63" of the Bosch tracks vs. the 55" of the Makita/Festool. Having the extra few inches will help on full 4' plywood rips with a single track. The 55" barely "cuts" it. Pun intended.
Can't wait to see the L-Boxx ports come together!
Ha, I was actually curious about the saw but this is great insight on the tracks. As you may know I'm a track saw fan and have the Makita, so I was curious since I don't see the Bosch pop up as often and it wasn't available when I got mine. 100% agree that cam-style track connecter bar looks much better. I recently got an extra 55" Makita track and picked up the TSO Products bar connectors which have a "keystone" feature to help self-align. Haven't tried them yet. Hopefully they work okay. Connecting two tracks in general freaks me out but the long ones are so expensive.
So did you get that Bosch GKS18V-68GC? Any reason not to do Bosch's plunge saw?
I will say I think you'll love the 63" of the Bosch tracks vs. the 55" of the Makita/Festool. Having the extra few inches will help on full 4' plywood rips with a single track. The 55" barely "cuts" it. Pun intended.
Can't wait to see the L-Boxx ports come together!
Your posts (and those from Grumblebum, Bob Heine, Denwood and so many others) on love and success with track saws was a compelling factor in finally getting past my previous solution:
The Swanson was OK for my shed, but left a lot to be desired for my workbench, trim and some projects in the house.
I really wanted a true plunge style track saw, but once I 'discovered' the GKS18V-68GC I was sold. I ordered it from Europe; read more here. Shipping and communication was a PITA - I'd need to be uber-motivated to do that again, and not with TechInn. EVER.
More of a hybrid, and a full size 7¼", the -68GC runs on Bosch/Mafell, Makita & Ferstool tracks. Battery powered with power equal to or better than corded affords flexibility (I think it was you who commented on breaking sheets down in the parking lot at the lumber yard?). It has plunge capability, a beefy sled, dust port and all I'd really miss is the clearance from blade to the edge of the sled - 1cm v. 6cm.
Added benefit is I already have one of the 8.0Ah batteries it needs to run at optimum performance. I picked up a new one so I now have 2; I'll skip the 12Ah.
It was also $210 LESS than the 5½" GKT18V-GC20L14 delivered.
Thanks for stopping in! I'll be hitting you up for drill press table comments soon.
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a Bosch dishwasher...does that count?
mfg0772
Well-known member
I saw that Bosch track too and was wondering. I want a tracksaw in the worst way but its not in the budget right now. Maybe that's a good thing so I can really figure out what would be best for me and hopefully find a good deal.
nicholam77
Well-known member
I really wanted a true plunge style track saw, but once I 'discovered' the GKS18V-68GC I was sold. I ordered it from Europe; read more here. Shipping and communication was a PITA - I'd need to be uber-motivated to do that again, and not with TechInn. EVER.
More of a hybrid, and a full size 7¼", the -68GC runs on Bosch/Mafell, Makita & Ferstool tracks. Battery powered with power equal to or better than corded affords flexibility (I think it was you who commented on breaking sheets down in the parking lot at the lumber yard?). It has plunge capability, a beefy sled, dust port and all I'd really miss is the clearance from blade to the edge of the sled - 1cm v. 6cm.
Added benefit is I already have one of the 8.0Ah batteries it needs to run at optimum performance. I picked up a new one so I now have 2; I'll skip the 12Ah.
It was also $210 LESS than the 5½" GKT18V-GC20L14 delivered.
Thanks for stopping in! I'll be hitting you up for drill press table comments soon.
Ok, this is all very interesting on the GKS18V-68GC. And that you imported from Europe. It does look like a very cool saw! So I suppose can you make a controlled plunge cut with it's plunge mechanism then? If so I see very little you'd gain with the plunge saw version except perhaps some dust collection performance and close clearance cutting like you mentioned.
I did not know the GKT18V-GC20L14 only had a 5 1/2" blade. That definitely seems small. I believe the Makita is 6 1/2". I pretty much exclusively use it for sheet goods, but if you plan to cut slabs or hardwoods the extra blade height and power sounds amazing.
Depends on how you define 'controlled' but you can see it in the following vids. The thumb operated plunge function is very nice, but it does not have a depth stop. I'll experiment with this when I use it to see if there is a solution.
Bosch factory guys talk about the saw@ ~1:45
dry wit tool review guy@ ~3:20, ~7:00, ~8:40
Independant review@ 0:20
in the rain@ 0:55
I love the ToolBlast guy, Geir Andersen.
The Episode with The Horizontal Track Saw Guide Rail Storage Solution!
I hit up Garage Journal and a bunch of other places on the web to find a solution to store my new guide rails with the following criteria:
1. Needed to be horizontal - I did not plan for this when I layed out the shop and really have no place with enough vertical that I wanted to use (brick wall was out).
2. Out of the way but easily accessible as I foresee moderate use.
3. Protection of the rubber grip and splinter guard strips. This would be further complicated by my moderate OCD - I couldn't have them be upside down as far as lettering. Yes I am my own PITA
4. I wanted the rails to sit flatly and supported against a large portion of their length as a hedge against any warping/bending. I admit this is probably unnecessary - they seem like good quality hunks of aluminum.
5. Ceiling is an option
6. Must maintain my mission critical directive to be an efficient use of available space in a small shop (220sf or 20.4sm)
While pouring Scotch late at night I had begun to sketch out some possibilities based on the feedback from GJ and other research. The thought was some kind of clamp/ledge mounted to the wall and made from a combo of 1x and ½" Baltic Birch connected with an axle and a spring to act as retention.
The rails are not heavy, so no need for Herculean strength, and I could use a part of the rail profile itself to provide the ledge to sit on and the spring to hold the ledge engaged on the clamp arm. At first I was focusing on a T-track and Hold Down Clamp solution. Various iterations (and more wee drams) led me a design where loading could be hands free if I 'ramped' the clamp arm (think 1911 feed ramp). I also thought about creating a profile on the base that would positively engage the beveled edge of the rail - sort of an anti tip & depth locating element. The track profile is the shaded component in my definitively not-to-scale sketch.
Somewhere in the midst of glass #3, my now lubricated cranium was wondering how to move the clamp arm...CLAMP ARM? Holy already available Batman! Thanks to some other GJers (who shall remain nameless to protect them from Mrs. Trapps), I've been spending a lot of time over at Woodpecker's. I had seen these clamps there in my travels:
Awfully nice solution. Also, awfully expensive and not in the budget. Most things Woodpecker's have can be sourced elsewhere for considerably less if you're ok with sacrificing some quality in terms of materials and/or manufacturing. Who else has these types of clamps? It turns out a whole lot of places do. Including Harbor Freight.
From there it was pretty simple to layout the Harbor Freight Toggle Clamps up and out of the way but within easy reach:
I have plywood walls specifically to have mounting flexibility for various items. There was available real estate in one section but the trim board covering the plywood panel seam would need to shift by about 1" to allow the rails to fit between the trim and the electrical Service Panel. I removed the trim and found about 1⅛" available.
The upper clamps don't allow 100% engagement due to the handle of the toggle clamps hitting the trim. I estimate it's about 90% and I'm still fiddling with the adjustment. On my next journey near Harbor Freight I'll pick up a pair of the vertical style which should solve the issue and be a tad easier to reach.
While not an elegant solution, the track connector sits simply on a pair of screw eyes between the rails.
The wall space between the rails and bench-top is now reserved for frequent use tools which I'll continue to develop over time.
Cheers!
I hit up Garage Journal and a bunch of other places on the web to find a solution to store my new guide rails with the following criteria:
1. Needed to be horizontal - I did not plan for this when I layed out the shop and really have no place with enough vertical that I wanted to use (brick wall was out).
2. Out of the way but easily accessible as I foresee moderate use.
3. Protection of the rubber grip and splinter guard strips. This would be further complicated by my moderate OCD - I couldn't have them be upside down as far as lettering. Yes I am my own PITA
4. I wanted the rails to sit flatly and supported against a large portion of their length as a hedge against any warping/bending. I admit this is probably unnecessary - they seem like good quality hunks of aluminum.
5. Ceiling is an option
6. Must maintain my mission critical directive to be an efficient use of available space in a small shop (220sf or 20.4sm)
While pouring Scotch late at night I had begun to sketch out some possibilities based on the feedback from GJ and other research. The thought was some kind of clamp/ledge mounted to the wall and made from a combo of 1x and ½" Baltic Birch connected with an axle and a spring to act as retention.
The rails are not heavy, so no need for Herculean strength, and I could use a part of the rail profile itself to provide the ledge to sit on and the spring to hold the ledge engaged on the clamp arm. At first I was focusing on a T-track and Hold Down Clamp solution. Various iterations (and more wee drams) led me a design where loading could be hands free if I 'ramped' the clamp arm (think 1911 feed ramp). I also thought about creating a profile on the base that would positively engage the beveled edge of the rail - sort of an anti tip & depth locating element. The track profile is the shaded component in my definitively not-to-scale sketch.
Somewhere in the midst of glass #3, my now lubricated cranium was wondering how to move the clamp arm...CLAMP ARM? Holy already available Batman! Thanks to some other GJers (who shall remain nameless to protect them from Mrs. Trapps), I've been spending a lot of time over at Woodpecker's. I had seen these clamps there in my travels:
Awfully nice solution. Also, awfully expensive and not in the budget. Most things Woodpecker's have can be sourced elsewhere for considerably less if you're ok with sacrificing some quality in terms of materials and/or manufacturing. Who else has these types of clamps? It turns out a whole lot of places do. Including Harbor Freight.
From there it was pretty simple to layout the Harbor Freight Toggle Clamps up and out of the way but within easy reach:
I have plywood walls specifically to have mounting flexibility for various items. There was available real estate in one section but the trim board covering the plywood panel seam would need to shift by about 1" to allow the rails to fit between the trim and the electrical Service Panel. I removed the trim and found about 1⅛" available.
The upper clamps don't allow 100% engagement due to the handle of the toggle clamps hitting the trim. I estimate it's about 90% and I'm still fiddling with the adjustment. On my next journey near Harbor Freight I'll pick up a pair of the vertical style which should solve the issue and be a tad easier to reach.
While not an elegant solution, the track connector sits simply on a pair of screw eyes between the rails.
The wall space between the rails and bench-top is now reserved for frequent use tools which I'll continue to develop over time.
Cheers!
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Looks like a good solution. Second the opinion on Woodpeckers stuff. It is great but man it takes a bite out of the wallet. You know I have seen those clamps used for all kinds of stuff in various woodworking mags over the years and in my 16 year woodworking journey I have yet to purchase any. Harbor Freight has them you say? I just happen to have a gift card to that place.
Bret
Bret
nicholam77
Well-known member
It may have been over-engineered but your hands free spring clamps are a clever design!
The toggle clamps are a good idea, too, I don't think I've seen anyone else do that!
FWIW toggle clamps are available on Amazon, too. All kinds.
As you know I'm a Woodpecker's fan. Although I think (like IKEA) they have some hits and misses. Or rather sometimes their solutions are admittedly nice and clever, but solve a problem that doesn't really need solving in such an expensive way. They also have a few incredibly useful tools, that while I wouldn't call cheap, are also not in astronomically ridiculous territory. I would put tools like the TS3 and shorter Paolini rules in that category. I've always tried to wait for their sales. It's not a ton but every bit helps.
The toggle clamps are a good idea, too, I don't think I've seen anyone else do that!
FWIW toggle clamps are available on Amazon, too. All kinds.
As you know I'm a Woodpecker's fan. Although I think (like IKEA) they have some hits and misses. Or rather sometimes their solutions are admittedly nice and clever, but solve a problem that doesn't really need solving in such an expensive way. They also have a few incredibly useful tools, that while I wouldn't call cheap, are also not in astronomically ridiculous territory. I would put tools like the TS3 and shorter Paolini rules in that category. I've always tried to wait for their sales. It's not a ton but every bit helps.
Arclitgold
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2017
- Messages
- 317
Wow just read this thread from the beginning! Nice work and the shop shaped up beautifully!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks like a good solution. Second the opinion on Woodpeckers stuff. It is great but man it takes a bite out of the wallet. You know I have seen those clamps used for all kinds of stuff in various woodworking mags over the years and in my 16 year woodworking journey I have yet to purchase any. Harbor Freight has them you say? I just happen to have a gift card to that place.
Bret
Thanks Bret. Clamping force is not glamorous and I have zero issues using the HF products in many situations. Other places, where accuracy, durability, efficiency and other criteria (sometimes my superfluous opinion of aesthetics) come into play and I have zero issues 'spending up' where my budget allows.
Not everything they make is for me, but some of their stuff really looks useful and most of it has a very good aesthetic with a 'form follows function' ideology. I just ordered an 8" Paolini Pocket Rule which I can justify and I am eyeballing a SERX pretty hard which I can't justify. At least for now....
Thanks for the positive comment. It is a both a project and a journey. An incomplete one, but I can see the progress.
____________________
Perhaps clever and unique, but the more I look at the track saw rails, the more I am realizing there is a better way that more closely follows my mission to be very efficient with space utilization. They really eat up a ton of space so it's an item I'll spend more time trying to figure out. For now they will remain as is - it's functional keeping them out of the way and protected. But I can, with confidence, say they will move, perhaps in a stacked arrangement hanging from the ceiling.
nicholam77
Well-known member
A Paolini rule is on my "want list" for sure. Right now I use a cheap combo square but the measurements are almost impossible to read. Don't tempt me!
Today was 'Losing My Track Saw Virginity Day'
39°, dry and mostly sunny meant I could engage the tailgate workbench and begin the drawers for the L-Boxx ports.
This saw:
1st cut in some 15/32 to trim the splinter guard and then a few test cuts for me to learn a bit, followed by my first real cuts:
11 panels of 1/2 Baltic Birch, 2 cuts each:
The 'hairy' sheets in the pic are actually the as-bought machine edge. The saw left very good, but not perfect, edges. Dead straight and square, but there are visible blade witness marks in some of the cuts; look closely at the top 2 in the stack. One pass on a jointer would leave then perfect. I'm hopeful my technique will improve over time and this will result in better, cleaner cuts.
The saw / track worked as well as I'd hoped; easy, accurate, repeatable and efficient. The rubber grip strips were surprising in their effectiveness!
I used the stock blade, a Bosch Wood Expert 24 tooth. As it is a full size 7¼" saw, blade choices are numerous; I will experiment next time trying a 40T in the Baltic Birch. It was a bit breezy so dust/chips went everywhere. The dust port looked to be good at directing a large percentage of chips/dust, but with a fairly open blade guard, I have no expectation of a dustless experience. I'll try it with a vacuum attached and see. Regardless, I'll take the trade off for the rest of what this saw brings to the table.
I started with a fully charged 8.0Ah Bosch Core (Milwaukee Fuel competitor) battery. By my math, I cut about ~567" or ~47' in ½" plywood (tests in B/C, finish in Baltic Birch). The saw was set to 3 (speed) and used just 1 of the 5 bars of juice.
In addition to blade and speed experiments, I'll also need to be better about using a sharper pencil. I'm also going to 'borrow' nicholam77 's mm to inch conversion chart and stick it right in the case to speed up depth setting (the saw is all metric). - Thanks Nick!
Overall I am extremely happy I took the plunge, and, just a bit bummed I waited so long. A set of parallel guides would be awesome in a repeatability scenario.
If you're cutting a good amount of sheet goods, or longer rips in lumber, a track saw is a game changer in terms of speed and accuracy.
39°, dry and mostly sunny meant I could engage the tailgate workbench and begin the drawers for the L-Boxx ports.
This saw:
1st cut in some 15/32 to trim the splinter guard and then a few test cuts for me to learn a bit, followed by my first real cuts:
11 panels of 1/2 Baltic Birch, 2 cuts each:
The 'hairy' sheets in the pic are actually the as-bought machine edge. The saw left very good, but not perfect, edges. Dead straight and square, but there are visible blade witness marks in some of the cuts; look closely at the top 2 in the stack. One pass on a jointer would leave then perfect. I'm hopeful my technique will improve over time and this will result in better, cleaner cuts.
The saw / track worked as well as I'd hoped; easy, accurate, repeatable and efficient. The rubber grip strips were surprising in their effectiveness!
I used the stock blade, a Bosch Wood Expert 24 tooth. As it is a full size 7¼" saw, blade choices are numerous; I will experiment next time trying a 40T in the Baltic Birch. It was a bit breezy so dust/chips went everywhere. The dust port looked to be good at directing a large percentage of chips/dust, but with a fairly open blade guard, I have no expectation of a dustless experience. I'll try it with a vacuum attached and see. Regardless, I'll take the trade off for the rest of what this saw brings to the table.
I started with a fully charged 8.0Ah Bosch Core (Milwaukee Fuel competitor) battery. By my math, I cut about ~567" or ~47' in ½" plywood (tests in B/C, finish in Baltic Birch). The saw was set to 3 (speed) and used just 1 of the 5 bars of juice.
In addition to blade and speed experiments, I'll also need to be better about using a sharper pencil. I'm also going to 'borrow' nicholam77 's mm to inch conversion chart and stick it right in the case to speed up depth setting (the saw is all metric). - Thanks Nick!
Overall I am extremely happy I took the plunge, and, just a bit bummed I waited so long. A set of parallel guides would be awesome in a repeatability scenario.
If you're cutting a good amount of sheet goods, or longer rips in lumber, a track saw is a game changer in terms of speed and accuracy.
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Very Cool. Yes I will say a 40T Diablo blade should leave no visible saw marks. I have it in my "regular" skilsaw and it leaves a very good finish. It is also just a little bit thinner than most stock blades so it will give you a little bit more power.
I am going to have to breakdown and get a track saw at some point. But first more router bits and clamps.
Bret
I am going to have to breakdown and get a track saw at some point. But first more router bits and clamps.
Bret
nicholam77
Well-known member
Sweeeet!! Looks awesome. And it looks like a beast, definitely bigger than the Makita.
First off it looks like you got some accurate results on the first go of it!
On the blade marks, question for you, does the saw have adjustable cams to hold it on the track? If so I'd make them as tight as they can be and still allow it to slide smooth. As in make sure it doesn't have "play".
Also, I think 24T is too few for plywood. Was it a ripping blade? The other characteristics of the blade (rake angle, bevel grind pattern, etc) might play into it. If you already have a 40T combination blade to try that should probably work well like Bret said, although for plywood you could consider even higher tooth count with crosscut rake and grind pattern to prevent veneer tear out.
For reference my Makita came with a 48T ATB (alternating top bevel), which is essentially a crosscut blade. It works very well in plywood, MDF, and even melamine with the scoring cut feature.
Regarding the depth chart... "borrow" away. It's super handy for my dumb brain, but just want to make sure you don't copy mine directly! Because the values I used are based on my saw, track height, and desired protrusion past the workpiece, so you'll likely need to work out the numbers that work for your saw.
First off it looks like you got some accurate results on the first go of it!
On the blade marks, question for you, does the saw have adjustable cams to hold it on the track? If so I'd make them as tight as they can be and still allow it to slide smooth. As in make sure it doesn't have "play".
Also, I think 24T is too few for plywood. Was it a ripping blade? The other characteristics of the blade (rake angle, bevel grind pattern, etc) might play into it. If you already have a 40T combination blade to try that should probably work well like Bret said, although for plywood you could consider even higher tooth count with crosscut rake and grind pattern to prevent veneer tear out.
For reference my Makita came with a 48T ATB (alternating top bevel), which is essentially a crosscut blade. It works very well in plywood, MDF, and even melamine with the scoring cut feature.
Regarding the depth chart... "borrow" away. It's super handy for my dumb brain, but just want to make sure you don't copy mine directly! Because the values I used are based on my saw, track height, and desired protrusion past the workpiece, so you'll likely need to work out the numbers that work for your saw.
More than my fair share of QST the past several days. Planned and unplanned progress.
As for the unplanned, I keep a couple of 5 gallon buckets of scrap for various reasons. I've followed a few discussions regarding frequent use/high use item placement in the shop. I decided I had a few things that fit that category well and that the wall space below the track saw rails would be a great place for a small shelf. The buckets produced everything needed. I played around with placement and decided it should be just below eye level so I could easily see anything residing there. It's 63½" long and cut from a piece of 1x6 sitting on a 1x3 ledger with 3 braces.
Before:
After:
An unintended benefit was the height allowing the 1281 square to nest perfectly between the trim and ledger. You can also see the designated L-Boxx port section left of the HF44's....
I got a little overzealous sanding the 45° corner on the left side:
My selective OCD is showing, but there is a fresh bottle of Scottish water, so I'll survive.
It's already become a very efficient and useful space. Let's see if I can keep it clutter free, and what else ends up there in the FU/HU category.
L-Boxx Ports: I have been accumulating the parts for this project for a while. The slides being the biggest expense, I bought a few at a time over the last 3 months. I used the same Centerline 757 Series 16" Medium Duty Over-Travel units I used in the Small Parts Storage Cabinet. I want the L-Boxxes to be able to open completely without having to come out of the 'drawer.' The sides and backs are 1x3, the fronts will be 1x2. No clever locating grooves this time, just a shallow lip on the fronts. The bottoms are the ½" Baltic Birch panels I profiled above in the "Life is better" with a Track Saw post.
Saturday was nice here (relatively speaking), sunny and 27° so I was able to engage the tailgate workbench again for the router work:
I picked up a new featherboard just for this project ('cuz every project needs a new tool, right?):
Its from Milescraft and it worked great!
I felt it to be prudent, given the smaller 1x2 I'd be cutting dados in. I also enjoyed using a late Christmas present, a Woodpecker Delve, to set up the router. Super convenient! Then I used that to set up each drawer assembly. The small size was easy to work with and the functionality for repeat set-ups is great.
After building a prototype, and having to rout a couple of extra sides due to a design change, I was able to start the assembly of the drawers. The bottoms sit in the ½" dados and are screwed and glued (Titebond III):
The bottoms get the #8x1¼", 2 per side and 3 across the back, through the 1x and into the BB panel. The #8x2" are used to hold the sides to the back near the top of each drawer.
Every screw got the Pilot Hole and Counter Sink treatment and I kept the clamps on for 2 hours; Titebond says a 30 minute minimum so I feel good considering the screws.
Only the fronts and slides remain. After that I can layout the ports under the workbench.
Where it was, with temporary ports on the right and just open space on the left:
The 'guts' of the temporary ports:
AAAAAANNNND, Houston, we have a problem. Keeping the Tool Trundles is important for my space utilization mission:
Because I plan to recess the drill press by about 12" towards the left side in Port Stack #2 (I just made that up; there will be 4 port stacks under the bench), the existing trundle is too tall. The press needs to come down in height because of both working height and garage door clearance. I have a solution mapped out that will solve the issue AND get rid of the annoying, dysfunctional 'hinges' linking the two trundle cars.
Cheers!
As for the unplanned, I keep a couple of 5 gallon buckets of scrap for various reasons. I've followed a few discussions regarding frequent use/high use item placement in the shop. I decided I had a few things that fit that category well and that the wall space below the track saw rails would be a great place for a small shelf. The buckets produced everything needed. I played around with placement and decided it should be just below eye level so I could easily see anything residing there. It's 63½" long and cut from a piece of 1x6 sitting on a 1x3 ledger with 3 braces.
Before:
After:
An unintended benefit was the height allowing the 1281 square to nest perfectly between the trim and ledger. You can also see the designated L-Boxx port section left of the HF44's....
I got a little overzealous sanding the 45° corner on the left side:
My selective OCD is showing, but there is a fresh bottle of Scottish water, so I'll survive.
It's already become a very efficient and useful space. Let's see if I can keep it clutter free, and what else ends up there in the FU/HU category.
L-Boxx Ports: I have been accumulating the parts for this project for a while. The slides being the biggest expense, I bought a few at a time over the last 3 months. I used the same Centerline 757 Series 16" Medium Duty Over-Travel units I used in the Small Parts Storage Cabinet. I want the L-Boxxes to be able to open completely without having to come out of the 'drawer.' The sides and backs are 1x3, the fronts will be 1x2. No clever locating grooves this time, just a shallow lip on the fronts. The bottoms are the ½" Baltic Birch panels I profiled above in the "Life is better" with a Track Saw post.
Saturday was nice here (relatively speaking), sunny and 27° so I was able to engage the tailgate workbench again for the router work:
I picked up a new featherboard just for this project ('cuz every project needs a new tool, right?):
Its from Milescraft and it worked great!
I felt it to be prudent, given the smaller 1x2 I'd be cutting dados in. I also enjoyed using a late Christmas present, a Woodpecker Delve, to set up the router. Super convenient! Then I used that to set up each drawer assembly. The small size was easy to work with and the functionality for repeat set-ups is great.
After building a prototype, and having to rout a couple of extra sides due to a design change, I was able to start the assembly of the drawers. The bottoms sit in the ½" dados and are screwed and glued (Titebond III):
The bottoms get the #8x1¼", 2 per side and 3 across the back, through the 1x and into the BB panel. The #8x2" are used to hold the sides to the back near the top of each drawer.
Every screw got the Pilot Hole and Counter Sink treatment and I kept the clamps on for 2 hours; Titebond says a 30 minute minimum so I feel good considering the screws.
Only the fronts and slides remain. After that I can layout the ports under the workbench.
Where it was, with temporary ports on the right and just open space on the left:
The 'guts' of the temporary ports:
AAAAAANNNND, Houston, we have a problem. Keeping the Tool Trundles is important for my space utilization mission:
Because I plan to recess the drill press by about 12" towards the left side in Port Stack #2 (I just made that up; there will be 4 port stacks under the bench), the existing trundle is too tall. The press needs to come down in height because of both working height and garage door clearance. I have a solution mapped out that will solve the issue AND get rid of the annoying, dysfunctional 'hinges' linking the two trundle cars.
Cheers!
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