New Build - Boat Barn and Woodworking Shop

duckcarver · Jul 19, 2011

This site has been a tremendous resource for me over the past 4+ months as I lurked, studied, copied and sketched ideas for my new barn. It is being designed to house two boats, a workshop and all of the extras that are now crammed into my garage and shed.

My building will be pole barn construction consisting of a 34' x 40' building with 14'-6" eves and 8/12 attic storage trusses. The attic will be 14' x 40' x 8'. This part of the building will not be insulated for the foreseeable future (other than bubble foil under the metal roof). It will have an attached, enclosed 12' x 26' x8' lean-to. The remaining 14' of the lean-to will be open for firewood storage and covering part of a dog kennel. The 12' x 26' area of the building will be framed in, insulated and used for a carving workshop. I need to have one door with at least 11'-6" of clearance for my current boat and approx. 12'-6" of clearance for a future boat with T-top and radar.

I have debated running PEX under the floor of the workshop (12' x 26'), but am now leaning toward simply running a 220V circuit for a though wall air conditioner/heater unit. I have young kids and lots of job demands, so I will not have the time to spend hours in the workshop at a time. The heating/cooling needs will be infrequent and generally for 1-3 hour durations max. I started a second thread requesting comments on my initial lighting design (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110012).

I will certainly supplement this thread with questions, updates and photos as this project develops. I am currently reviewing proposals and meeting with builders and hope to be able to start construction in September.

Thanks for looking. Please feel free to share any comments, suggestions or criticism on the attached plans or discussion regarding this project, which has already been greatly improved based on the information that I have collected here.

NUTTSGT · Jul 20, 2011

Man, I hate it when that happens. lost everything I typed.

I was suggesting make the entire apron 4' wide, instead of 2'. I think it would make it easier to back the boats in, hooking and unhooking them. Also it may prevent having a bump to go over for the rear truck tires,unless of course you have a paved (concrete or asphalt) driveway.
Another factor, I'd assume they would be poured after the floor is done. I'm not sure of the thickness of the concrete but if you use 6" it'd work like this, atleast close too.

2'x30'x6"= 1.11yds
4'x6'x6"= .44 yds
1.11 + .44= 1.55 yds

4'x36'x6"= 2.67 yds

If you have a truck bring the concrete for the pour, they almost always have a minimum yard order, it's 3 yds around here. you might as well pay and get concrete for your money rather than pay a small load charge.

duckcarver · Jul 20, 2011

Great thought. Thank you.

Camper · Jul 20, 2011

duckcarver said:
I have debated running PEX under the floor of the workshop (12' x 26'), but am now leaning toward simply running a 220V circuit for a though wall air conditioner/heater unit.

If it were me I would run the Pex even if you don't plan on using it for heating at this time. You can always cap it off but at least it would be there if you ever change your mind. Cost to install it now is minimal compared to not being able to do it in the future.

rburke65 · Jul 20, 2011

No one here knows where you are located, and therefore our responses will be limited. You can add a location in your profile.

duckcarver · Jul 20, 2011

I've updated my profile. Barn will be located on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. The ridge will be oriented east west, with the overhead doors facing west. The open lean-to in the rear of the building will be the SE corner of the building to provide protection for a dog kennel (winter: protection from NW winds and southern exposure; shaded in the summer).

rieferman · Jul 20, 2011

Hello,
I'm actually just starting a job in the post-frame construction industry later this week, so I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if there are pointers that I can offer as I learn more. I definitely don't want to be advertisey here, but if you're looking for another name to consider, PM me and I'll pass you company information (we do cover MD area). Either which way, I'll be happy to pass on what I learn since I've gained a ton of knowledge on this website.

First thing... I would put the pex in the floor if I could go back in time. Cheap and easy to do now, and who knows how you'll use the space over time, or what value that might bring in retirement or during a home sale. Overcoming cold slab in the dead of winter is tough for any heater in our area of the country.

duckcarver · Jul 21, 2011

Recognizing that there is a separate forum for HVAC discussions, can anyone offer a rough guesstimate of the cost of pex tubing for this building?

domecreek · Oct 15, 2011

Good Plan. I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada and I have plans to build a boat barn similar to yours. I follow Tim Lackey (Northern Yacht Restorations) out of Maine. Tim has built two boat barns and I said that this is my year to do the same.

domecreek · Oct 15, 2011

Here is a photo of what I work on in my spare time - It is a Sisu that I brought in from New London, Conn.

hockey88fan · Oct 15, 2011

Nice boat

duckcarver · Oct 27, 2011

I've spent weeks debating, measuring and remeasuring my boats and other stuff, shrinking the building plans, expanding, etc. I've settled on the original plan, a 34' x 40' x 14'-6" pole building with an attached 12' wide lean-to (26' enclosed, 14' open). The main building will have 7/12 roof, with partial attic storage trusses (20'). Expect plans from my contractor shortly, so I can pull a building permit and get this project underway.

duckcarver · Nov 22, 2011

I finally have a building permit in hand, large maple tree that was in the way has been removed and the barn footprint is staked. Looking forward to getting this project moving and the floor poured before it gets too cold.

gabedad · Nov 23, 2011

Take a look at the geobarns site - they have a couple of boat barns

Double B · Nov 23, 2011

I don't see anywhere in your post where you have put a floor drain. I work on outboards and boats in my current garage. The one thing I hate more than anything is not having a floor drain. The water is a pain to keep squegeeing "Spelling" out the door. Might want to add some kind of pit with a pumpout. Even if it is not hooked up to sewerlines. Just pumping it out side. Would wake life easier before the floor is poured.

Just a thought.....

duckcarver · Nov 29, 2011

I've exchanged some thoughts with the builder about drainage, but haven't finalized those plans. Given the size of the building and the amount of slope that would be necessary, I'm leaning towards floor drains.

Grading starts tomorrow (finally)! Here are two photos of the site.

hockey88fan · Nov 29, 2011

I would run the pex anyway, it is relatively cheap.

hockey88fan · Nov 29, 2011

duckcarver said:
Recognizing that there is a separate forum for HVAC discussions, can anyone offer a rough guesstimate of the cost of pex tubing for this building?

The pex for my garage, 30x34, was $200 if I recall. I would second the floor drain idea. I park our boat in put garage also and it is real nice to have the drain. I located the drain so it sits right below the rear of the boat when it is backed into the garage. Works nice.

duckcarver · Dec 5, 2011

I have a level building pad now. It took 11 loads of bankrun, which was nearly double the contractor's estimate. Looking forward to seeing some vertical poles.

theoldwizard1 · Dec 6, 2011

I hope you dug out the stump of that tree, which appears to be in the middle of your floor. Simply grinding it down means it will eventually rot and cause the floor to crack.

I would also look for the biggest door you can find for the back. 48" might look odd, but you will appreciate using it instead of opening the front door.

duckcarver · Dec 6, 2011

The stump was located just outside the front of the building-- about 4' from the front doors. Stump and a TON of root mat was pulled by an excavator and the skid steer before grading of the building pad.

JordanFTW · Dec 6, 2011

I look forward to seeing your progress. Be sure to keep us updated!

RotoRoss · Dec 6, 2011

hockey88fan said:
The PEX for my garage, 30x34, was $200 if I recall. I would second the floor drain idea. I park our boat in put garage also and it is real nice to have the drain. I located the drain so it sits right below the rear of the boat when it is backed into the garage. Works nice.

A very wise person.
Don't forget to put down a thermal reflective barrier under the PEX there's no point in heating the earth(or foam insulation, something appropriate for your application).
These types of upgrades WILL NEVER cause one to kick themselves in the ****.
Its a wonder they still build houses on slabs in So Cal and aren't required to use solar hot water to heat the slab. Does anyone ever think electric or gas or oil fired heat will ever get cheaper?,not likely. My slab house is heated conventionally with gas fired hot air. In winter when it is shut off within an hour the house is cold 55 degrees in spite of the structure which is well insulated and always holds at least a 20 degree differential with the exterior. In summer its always cooler by 20 degrees even when its 100 degrees out side demonstrating the ability of the slab to **** heat out of the air. In winter its unbearable or very $$$$$$ and our climate is less severe than the rest of country. Why suffer when a small $$ could increase incentive to use your facility instead of driving you out. I need to retrofit with 2" of liteweight concrete and the PEX, something to avoid as some have mentioned. Oh well!
just saying

duckcarver · Dec 7, 2011

Agreed. PEX has been ordered. The workshop slab will be insulated with 2" foam under and around all four edges of the slab. I am not going to insulate or provide for heat for the remainder of the building, as I am unlikely to spend much time working on the boats over the winter.

duckcarver · Dec 16, 2011

I'm amazed by what was accomplished this week. The crew gave the site and pad several days to dry out after we received several inches of rain last Wednesday. They started Monday morning drilling the holes for the footers.

I stopped by the site Wednesday morning and was surprised to find most of the main part of the building framed.

By Thursday morning, they were working on the rafters for the lean-to roof and were ready to set the trusses.

As of this morning, all trusses were set, half of the purlins were installed and many other minor framing details (fascia, doors, etc.) were underway.

At this pace, the buillding should be enclosed before Christmas.

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