Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

shopnut · Jul 14, 2011

CraftsmanFreek said:
Shopnut,
I just spent several hours going through the pictures (and some of the commentary) on your incredible build. Went from page one through 30, and I plan to come back daily - I'm mesmerized by it! I'm a lifelong Ford guy, but I have never had so much respect for a Chevy man! Keep up the amazing work!

Thanks for taking the time to stop by CraftsmanFreek. You are welcome back anytime after those nice comments!

SEE - some of us Chevy guys aren’t SO bad after all! GJ does a good job of bringing us all together, for sure. Currently though, I barely consider myself a Chevy guy since I’ve been neglecting the poor old cars so badly in the past few years while working on the Asylum. The will take the spotlight shortly, however.

I tend to include a lot of commentary because the pictures just can’t explain everything and sometimes I also like to justify why I’m doing things the way I am so others understand my thought process (as crazy as it may seem sometimes). Maybe it will help some. The good thing is, readers can easily skip over it if not interested. In the end, I’m hoping this story will be a great reference for me later on after the build is done - there is no way I’m going to remember all the details later (like hidden things in the wall). it also should bring back a ton of memories (mostly good

).

You are on the tail end of the build process, so if you have questions about the earlier work, don’t be a stranger. I didn’t document things with quite as much detail in the beginning.

Vernmotor said:
He kind of got a knack of refining things don't he !..I am also always checking here on him.I not much help. But I love to read about what ever he doing

And Vernmotor, I'm glad to see you're still following along. It's been a long road me, and I really appreciate your "cyber support" to keep my ambition level up. You are contributing with the build more than you know. The summer heat and humidity is really getting to me!

shopnut · Jul 15, 2011

MOUNTING DETAILS OF THE LIBRARY LADDER BRACKETS…

Since I’m back on the library ladder subject again, here’s one more detail I would like to share (and officially document for myself). I took this picture a couple of months ago to remind me how the library ladder brackets are secured to the wall. I reached inside the roof soffit area and snapped the picture.

The top two fasteners are in tension and are the most important ones in this application, so I made sure the 3/8” bolts (actually M10, 12.9 class bolts I got as freebies) extended all the way through the horizontal 2x6 tying the main building columns together. The bottom two fasteners are merely 3” long 3/8” lag bolts since their primary job is just sharing some of the shear load in this joint and they just screw into the vertical 2x4’s touching the white brackets. I seriously doubt there will ever be any structural issues with the LL rail system, assuming the rail doesn’t rust away before I get it painted

Here’s a repeat picture of the brackets from the front view to remind you what they look like from the other side.

Omphaloskeptic · Jul 15, 2011

Shopnut - I can't quite tell from your trolley photo series what your rail offset is from the walls and roll-up door housing. The reason I ask is that I wonder if it is possible/desirable to engineer a 'steady strut' for the ladder to help prevent the trolley twisting towards the wall as you ascend/descend? I assume you are going to mount caster wheels to the bottom of the ladder to allow you to easily re-position the ladder while in the deployed configuration. I am imagining a wide 'chair rail' type of trim going around the shop just below the window trim on the walls and perhaps even attached to the inside face of the roll-up door housing; that is, if the distance between the rail-to-wall is about equal to that of the rail-to-door housing. Riding on this chair-rail would be two struts attached near the top of the ladder. These two fixed struts would be horizontal when the ladder is in the deployed position and angled slightly upwards when the ladder is in the stowed position, to allow a 'arc sweep clearance' when going from stowed to deployed position. The ends of the struts would have a ball type tip to contact the chair rail for stability (think ball-point pen tip arrangement). A double purpose of these struts would be to allow them to ride down the wall when you need to use the ladder outside the shop. I don't know if my description is adequate or not, or even if it is worth considering. I will say that moving and working on an extension ladder can be dicey and anything that improves stability can help prevent a trip to the Emergency Room!

shopnut · Jul 17, 2011

Omphaloskeptic said:
Shopnut - I can't quite tell from your trolley photo series what your rail offset is from the walls and roll-up door housing. The reason I ask is that I wonder if it is possible/desirable to engineer a 'steady strut' for the ladder to help prevent the trolley twisting towards the wall as you ascend/descend? I assume you are going to mount caster wheels to the bottom of the ladder to allow you to easily re-position the ladder while in the deployed configuration. I am imagining a wide 'chair rail' type of trim going around the shop just below the window trim on the walls and perhaps even attached to the inside face of the roll-up door housing; that is, if the distance between the rail-to-wall is about equal to that of the rail-to-door housing. Riding on this chair-rail would be two struts attached near the top of the ladder. These two fixed struts would be horizontal when the ladder is in the deployed position and angled slightly upwards when the ladder is in the stowed position, to allow a 'arc sweep clearance' when going from stowed to deployed position. The ends of the struts would have a ball type tip to contact the chair rail for stability (think ball-point pen tip arrangement). A double purpose of these struts would be to allow them to ride down the wall when you need to use the ladder outside the shop. I don't know if my description is adequate or not, or even if it is worth considering. I will say that moving and working on an extension ladder can be dicey and anything that improves stability can help prevent a trip to the Emergency Room!

Omphaloskeptic, I definitely don’t want any trips to the ER!

FYI, the rail is sitting about 8” from the wall. No, I’m not intending the ladder to have wheels at the bottom. I figured I would try it without them first and will focus my efforts on making a mechanism that makes it really easy to extend and retract the ladder one rung (length change between deployed and stored). That way it will be easy to retract, reposition to a new spot, and extend again. I’m planning some sort of “over center” lever for that. Some quick detach wheels down there might make a nice enhancement someday when I feel like making it better. The wheels would need to come off, though, because this ladder is already a handful for me to carry around without any accessories bolted on.

I believe I’m following you on what you're describing in regards to the anti-swing strut. We use those ball rollers on one of our products at work so I’m familiar with those too. I think that would work fine with some work to the walls, but a simple solution already presented itself this last work session. At least I hope so, anyway.

I purchased the largest strap hinge available at Lowes for a trial fit. In the following pictures, I just set the hinge in place and a bit of tape is holding it there. Image the triangular strap attaching directly to the gray channels below. The rectangular leaf would attach to the apparatus that hooks to the ladder. The hinge pin would need to be raised slightly and the strap curved a bit from that shown for running clearance to the rail in the straight sections.

I’m not at all happy with the 1/8” material thickness of this hinge and will seek out something much more robust like the ones pictured below. A 16’ long ladder can create a pretty large lever arm on the hinge system if the wheels bind or something.

larry_g · Jul 17, 2011

shopnut said:
After boosting the pressure to about 60psi, it worked great. One window took the lead while opening, followed quickly by two more. Finally the last window slid open with a bit more force than the others, making the total opening time around 2 seconds. I could boost the pressure a bit more to speed it up, but I don’t want to risk breaking a window.

I guess I can hold the button for THAT long .

http://www.pneumaticdepot.com/products.php?category=Speed Controllers

Have you considered flow controls at the cylinders? I spent many years in industry and working with pneumatics. One of the very common mistakes made was to use pressure to control speed of cylinders. Pressure is to adjust force and the flow control is to manage speed. The correct way to do what your doing, in my opinion, is to use flow controls and turn the pressure up to get a good action with a firm closure. The cushions you have on the cylinders should be set to prevent slamming at the end of stroke. You may have built in cushions if the diagram you posted is what you have.

Any way great idea and execution.
Lg
No neat sig line

shopnut · Jul 17, 2011

Thanks for your suggestion larry_g. You are absolutely right about the flow control. Below about 50psi, sometimes a window hangs up no matter how long I hold the switch, so I guess that is the force threshold.

In retrospect, I should have opted for the M5 elbow fittings with the little flow control knobs built in (like the one shown). But they are about $6 each and I needed 16 of them, so it could get a little pricy for those tiny buggers.

On the last trip out to the Asylum, however, I cycled the windows back and forth a few times every hour or so (actually anytime I just wanted a chuckle) and they performed beautifully every time, even if they weren't perfectly synchronized. And the LEDs switching from green to red are the crowning touch.

But it's still another upgrade to add the list - and I like upgrades! Thanks larry_g.

edit:
BTW, the cylinders do have internal cushions as shown in the cross-section and it is definitely keeping them from slamming at the end of the strokes.

shopnut · Jul 17, 2011

larry_g - now you really got me thinking. With flow control at each cylinder, I could play with the tuning to not only get it synchronized, but do other patterns as well. Like having one open at a time - it would be kind of like the "wave" going around the arena seats at the ball game.

Now I MUST have them! Dang it - you folks are going to put me in debt!

(Or for the Chevy guys/gals out there - maybe the windows will close matching the firing order of a small block Chevy!)

larry_g · Jul 17, 2011

I'm sorry to bruise your pocket book. One other thing you may consider is run a small rod the length of all the actuators and hook them together. You would be assured that all move the same.

lg
no neat sig line

shopnut · Jul 18, 2011

larry_g said:
I'm sorry to bruise your pocket book. One other thing you may consider is run a small rod the length of all the actuators and hook them together. You would be assured that all move the same.

lg
no neat sig line

The power window thing was somewhat of an after-thought. I initially bought the windows in equal numbers of left and right opening versions. In other words, for each set of two, the sashes open towards each other. That made it difficult to mechanically tie them together as you mention, thus the individual actuators.

What about Lubrication?
Since you have the experience, I'll ask you (or any guru out there) a question. I deal only with hydraulic systems now where lubrication to the cylinders is a given. But I remember the pneumatic systems normally had some type of inline lubrication system in place. Any recommendations for my simple setup?

Due to low number of cycles (after the novelty wears off, of course) I thought I might get by with just popping the lines off down by the solenoid valves and putting in a few drops of oil from time to time. Could this work? Would the oil make it all the way up to the cylinders after some cycles? What type of oil should I use? Am I just crazy for thinking this would work? (Okay, you don't have to answer that last one

)

larry_g · Jul 18, 2011

shopnut said:
The power window thing was somewhat of an after-thought. I initially bought the windows in equal numbers of left and right opening versions. In other words, for each set of two, the sashes open towards each other. That made it difficult to mechanically tie them together as you mention, thus the individual actuators.

What about Lubrication?
Since you have the experience, I'll ask you (or any guru out there) a question. I deal only with hydraulic systems now where lubrication to the cylinders is a given. But I remember the pneumatic systems normally had some type of inline lubrication system in place. Any recommendations for my simple setup?

Due to low number of cycles (after the novelty wears off, of course) I thought I might get by with just popping the lines off down by the solenoid valves and putting in a few drops of oil from time to time. Could this work? Would the oil make it all the way up to the cylinders after some cycles? What type of oil should I use? Am I just crazy for thinking this would work? (Okay, you don't have to answer that last one )

I wouldn't think you would need to lube the system. I worked in a clean manufacturing facility and we ran most all systems dry. Over the years I found that when rebuilding cylinders that Parker O-Lube was the lube I kept gravitating back to. It was very slick and stayed in place. I doubt that oil in the line at the bottom would make its way that high to make a difference. Looking at your installation I would be more concerned with dirt and dust collecting on the band and tearing out the band seals. If possible can you fab a dust cover to protect the band? Possibly a 1/2 section of pvc pipe that is afixed to the slide. For long term maintenance I would wipe the band with Velocite #6 oil on an annual basis.

lg
no neat sig line

shopnut · Jul 18, 2011

larry_g said:
I wouldn't think you would need to lube the system. I worked in a clean manufacturing facility and we ran most all systems dry. Over the years I found that when rebuilding cylinders that Parker O-Lube was the lube I kept gravitating back to. It was very slick and stayed in place. I doubt that oil in the line at the bottom would make its way that high to make a difference. Looking at your installation I would be more concerned with dirt and dust collecting on the band and tearing out the band seals. If possible can you fab a dust cover to protect the band? Possibly a 1/2 section of pvc pipe that is afixed to the slide. For long term maintenance I would wipe the band with Velocite #6 oil on an annual basis.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for your feedback. If I notice the cylinders taking more pressure to actuate I may add some lube directly in the cylinder ports. And I will search out the type you mention to do the annual maint. as suggested. The guys might even have some at work.

I have been searching a bit for the perfect full length cover to mainly hide the cylinders. But you have a good point about dust and dirt and I also foresee occasional drops of rain making it to them even though they are mostly protected by the fixed window sash. Slicing a white PVC pipe down the middle might do perfectly and I wouldn't have to paint it to make it blend in.

Great suggestions.

Omphaloskeptic · Jul 19, 2011

HAL: I've just picked up a fault in the AE35 unit. It's going to go 100% failure in 72 hours.
Dave: Oh no, that's terrible! What should I do HAL?
HAL: Dave, get a hold of yourself and lube it, lube it good Dave.
Dave: HAL, I just lubed it with 'Dammitall'!
HAL: Dave, you ignorant human, I meant lube the AE35's unit; not yours! :lol_hitti

(Sorry Shopnut, its late and this popped into my fried brain as I read the latest entries; good night)

shopnut · Jul 19, 2011

Omphaloskeptic said:
HAL: I've just picked up a fault in the AE35 unit. It's going to go 100% failure in 72 hours.
Dave: Oh no, that's terrible! What should I do HAL?
HAL: Dave, get a hold of yourself and lube it, lube it good Dave.
Dave: HAL, I just lubed it with 'Dammitall'!
HAL: Dave, you ignorant human, I meant lube the AE35's unit; not yours!

(Sorry Shopnut, its late and this popped into my fried brain as I read the latest entries; good night)

Well, you did hit on a very key point - the only thing more important than the TYPE of lube used in an application is WHERE you apply it.

Photo · Jul 19, 2011

Shopnut,

Instead of fabbing a cover for the slide`s, would it be possible to install them on the top of the window instead of the bottom? (hanging upside down). I realize that you would then be able to see them from the floor, but it would eliminate or at least limit the amount of dust or rain falling onto the actuators.

Or you could use a small piece of vinyl as a cover for the unit to hide it completely.

Lane

shopnut · Jul 19, 2011

Photo said:
Shopnut,

Instead of fabbing a cover for the slide`s, would it be possible to install them on the top of the window instead of the bottom? (hanging upside down). I realize that you would then be able to see them from the floor, but it would eliminate or at least limit the amount of dust or rain falling onto the actuators.

Or you could use a small piece of vinyl as a cover for the unit to hide it completely.

Lane

Thanks Lane for stopping in and offering input on the Asylum. Every bit helps.

From an asthetics point of view, some kind of cover is desired regardless of where the actuators are mounted because they can be plainly seen from the bay window. The extruded aluminum look of the actuators is actually very pleasing to me but the wires and hoses hanging out aren't. So I guess that work is already in the plan.

For those other crazy fools considering attempting something like this, let me comment on your suggestion to push on the window from the top. This would be a great solution for other types of windows, but these smaller windows don't have wheels in the lower edge of the sashes like my larger ones do. It takes a fair amount of effort to slide them back and forth. They also can move up and down maybe 1/2" (???) in their track. Pushing on the top edge of the window sash tends to skew it in the track and then it likes to snag. Pushing on the bottom like I'm doing eliminates this problem. Its kind of like trying to push a cardboard box across rough brushed concrete - if you push at the top, it tends to just roll over. If pushing near the bottom, however, it will slide across the concrete every time while staying level.

shopnut · Jul 19, 2011

MORE AIR LINES…

I continued the south main bay air line around to the front of the Asylum.

THEN IT WAS ON TO WALL INSULATION…

Nothing much to say here besides I crammed the R19 insulation in anywhere it would go.

AND FINALLY SOME CEILING INSULATION…

Since I was already somewhat itchy from the wall insulation, I decided to keep going around the light boxes in the ceiling before going to bed. No sense getting all itchy again the next day, right? At 3am, it was finally time to go in and take a good long shower. I needed it too because it was just too hot to be wearing anything more than shorts. Luckily fiberglass has never bothered me that much.

Here’s the foam board that was used above the light fixtures where there is limited room. This just adds to the roll insulation that the builder initially installed. It has shiny aluminum foil on the other side and that side was installed facing down.

And here are some shots taken the next morning. I slept in a bit so the sun was already up (I know - I’m a slacker).

Wingnut65 · Jul 20, 2011

shopnut, Man, the engineering you have put into these window is amazing. I probably would have ended up with glass block and a ceiling fan. But, I know that the design and build process is half the fun. Looks great, keep it up.

BTW, I'll fill you in on the electrolysis bucket I made.

shopnut · Jul 21, 2011

Wingnut65 said:
shopnut, Man, the engineering you have put into these window is amazing. I probably would have ended up with glass block and a ceiling fan. But, I know that the design and build process is half the fun. Looks great, keep it up.

BTW, I'll fill you in on the electrolysis bucket I made.

Thanks Wingnut65. At least the engineering is always free, because the parts sure weren't. And the build part of it was enjoyable too - I love working with precision aluminum parts. I'm pulling all the receipts together to see what the damage was and will post the results shortly - I'm sure a quite a few ceiling fans could have been purchased instead.

And yes, I would love to here about that electrolysis set-up. I prefer to buy old (but high quality) equipment cheap and restore it to like-new condition rather than buying new. So this could save a lot of time cleaning up rusty parts. One question though - Can I dip an entire Chevelle in one?

Wingnut65 · Jul 21, 2011

shopnut said:
One question though - Can I dip an entire Chevelle in one?

I all depnds on the size of your tank. A large in ground pool may work. Isn't that a lake out back??? But then there is the line of sight to the sacrificial electrodes... It may have to be done in pieces.

shopnut · Jul 22, 2011

Wingnut65 said:
Isn't that a lake out back???

They say lightening doesn't hurt fish, so why would this?

shopnut · Jul 22, 2011

I REALLY DIDN’T WANT TO DO ANYMORE SHEETROCK WORK…

But I had 1.5 sheets remaining from the upstairs office project that were earmarked for this job. I needed to build up the upper part of this wall to be flush with the lower finished portion. The remaining small pieces can finally go in the trash. I took the time to give it a coat of primer to hopefully deter the paper-eating silverfish bugs. Note the speaker openings.

Here’s a close-up of the speaker cutout showing access to the power window manifolds.

THEN IT WAS ON TO THE VINYL TRIM ON THE WALL…

Here you can see all the trim in place on the south main bay wall. This work goes relatively quick.

WHY STOP THERE - MORE VINYL SOFFIT MATERIAL GOES UP…

I was on a roll, but it was getting late again. This is the fun part though, because you start seeing dramatic results with little effort. The intricate cuts around the library ladder brackets slowed me down a bit, however. By 1:00am, reality set in and I knew I wasn’t going to get the entire wall done so I stopped after getting the first 12’ finished. I also popped the speaker in the wall and did a quick test before I got too far along. (I intentionally left the grill off so you could spot it easy).

Next time I will be on a mission to finish this wall, and about 2’ up the ceiling so I can install the lights.

Vernmotor · Jul 22, 2011

Ok I try to read back to see if I could find the answer to this. I did't. but I could of miss it. What go's on the ceiling ?

shopnut · Jul 24, 2011

Vernmotor said:
Ok I try to read back to see if I could find the answer to this. I did't. but I could of miss it. What go's on the ceiling ?

The ceiling will get R19 insulation followed by the soffit vinyl panels and it will look similar to this:

About 5 years ago, I caught a 50% off sale at Home Depot for the vinyl and I bought enough to do the ceiling. It has been in storage all this time. What I'm not sure of, however, is whether it will look good because it is the vented style (with millions of holes). If I don't like it, I will cover it up with the big flag.

Actually, the flag will probably go back up just because I've always liked it.

Red Leader · Jul 25, 2011

Did I ever post in this thread? If not, I've really been missing out. GREAT build!!! :thumbup:

shopnut · Jul 25, 2011

Red Leader said:
Did I ever post in this thread? If not, I've really been missing out. GREAT build!!!

Thanks Red Leader.

Even though our build styles are much different, there may be several pointers in this thread that will be of interest to you - such as my "plywood pocket" (use the index at the beginning of this thread to find it). If you are doing woodworking, don't forget to plan a storage spot for the larger panels. Otherwise they will just be in the way and possibly worse, an eyesore to your fantastic looking shop.

You may also want to check out my other 2-Car Garage Thread for some other storage tips. That thread is pretty small so you can flip through it in no time.

Vernmotor · Jul 25, 2011

Ok I got it !

shopnut · Jul 26, 2011

TOTAL COST FOR THE POWER CLERESTORY WINDOWS…

I’m far enough along now and don’t anticipate needing any additional supplies, so it’s time to calculate the damages to the bank account. I have $534 invested, which equates to $67/window. I didn’t include the components that were purchased and ultimately not used, like the mini valve pack and extra air cylinder - they hopefully will be used on another fun project someday. I consider them to be part of the R&D costs anyway.

Here is an itemized list:

WINDOW ACTUATORS
8X Air Cylinders (used, with a hefty shipping cost) = 188
2X Solenoid Valves (used) = 40
Misc Fittings/Manifolds (new) = 73
Hose (new) = 93
Regulator (new) = 8
Gauge (new) = 5
8X Window Connection Brackets (new) = 8
16X Studs (new) = 16

CONTROL BOX
16X LEDs and holders (new) = 20
2X Switches (used) = 8
Box and Wall Plate (new) = 9
8X Phone Jacks (new) = 14
24V Power Source (used) = 5
9V power Source = Free
Terminal Strip (new) = 3
8X Phone Cables (new, duplex) = 32
4X Phone Cables (new, single) = 12

The most surprising thing to me is the cost of the hose. I chose to use the high quality polyurethane type commonly used on pneumatic systems in an industrial setting and paid the higher price. Considering it was getting buried in the wall, I just didn’t want to skimp on it and have it fail in 5 years.

The overall price is certainly a bit higher than I originally expected, but I never expected to have indicator lights verifying the windows position. The lights account for $78 of the total and in my opinion was worth every penny. And considering the new price of just 2 actuators would surpass the cost of my entire system, it’s not too bad. Plus, I needed a “fun” project to keep my mind off the hot summer temps. <smilie>

NOW LET'S SEE…

What can I do with that left over cylinder and misc parts?

Maybe a powered slide vise jaw built into top surface of the workbench for clamping large items (with foot-actuated valve)?
Maybe an air-assisted vertical support for my adjustable height workbench?
How about power swing assist on the jib crane?
Perhaps a power slide on the hidden washing machine cover?
Or power openers on the loft doors so I could quickly find stuff while standing on the ground before climbing up there?

(I’m already wishing I had about 10 more of these things!

)

Coyote Red · Jul 26, 2011

shopnut said:
NOW LET'S SEE…

What can I do with that left over cylinder and misc parts?

Maybe a powered slide vise jaw built into top surface of the workbench for clamping large items (with foot actually valve)?
Maybe an air-assisted vertical support for my adjustable height workbench?
How about power swing assist on the jib crane?
Perhaps a power slide on the hidden washing machine cover?
Or power openers on the loft doors so I could quickly find stuff while standing on the ground before climbing up there?

I vote for #'s 1 or 2.

Great build, and great documentation/thread. Thank you.

Omphaloskeptic · Jul 26, 2011

How's about an air actuated toilet seat! :bounce:

Guaranteed to make the ASYLUM the most unique shop on GJ. lol Of course, it would mean a 'little' bit of work to add in a shop bathroom, but just think of how cool it would be. :thumbup:

shopnut · Jul 27, 2011

Coyote Red said:
I vote for #'s 1 or 2.

Great build, and great documentation/thread. Thank you.

Thanks Coyote Red. #1 is my favorite right now. I already have some adjustable struts purchased for #2 that shouldn't be too difficult to use on a regular basis.

Omphaloskeptic said:
How's about an air actuated toilet seat!

Guaranteed to make the ASYLUM the most unique shop on GJ. lol Of course, it would mean a 'little' bit of work to add in a shop bathroom, but just think of how cool it would be.

Air actuated toilet seat, eh? I'll have to give that some thought...

Wingnut65 · Jul 27, 2011

Could use it to open the fridge from across the room. But then you would need to engineer a transport system to get the beverage from shelf to hand without shaking it...

shopnut · Jul 27, 2011

Wingnut65 said:
Could use it to open the fridge from across the room. But then you would need to engineer a transport system to get the beverage from shelf to hand without shaking it...

I have a new favorite! :beer:

Now I just need to find a bank that's being demo'ed so I can pick up a cheap second-hand vacuum tube system like they have at the drive-thru's. Better yet - If I can reverse the air flow on command, I could have it either deliver beers wherever I'm working OR carry away all those woodworking chips.

Of course, if this makes me drink more, I may still need that powered toilet after all

Wingnut65 · Jul 27, 2011

shopnut said:
Of course, if this makes me drink more, I may still need that powered toilet after all

Call me the Breeze · Jul 27, 2011

Too Funny!

shopnut · Jul 28, 2011

THE SOUTH WALL IS NEARLY FINISHED…

I started this work session by continuing the vinyl down the remaining 12’ of wall. The second speaker was also installed and tested.

That went pretty quick so it was on to the trim work around the light boxes in the ceiling.

With the trim in place, the vinyl panels were next. You may be wondering why the vinyl stops after only about 18” up the ceiling. I needed a joint somewhere because the distance from the wall to the ceiling peak is about 13’ and the panels are sold in 12’ lengths. The upper edge of the lights was an inconspicuous place to locate the splice.

And then the four fixtures were installed. It’s great to have permanent lighting back in the main bay, even if it’s just on one side.

I still have the window jambs to finish off and that was actually a very tedious process last time because I couldn’t find the perfect vinyl profile to do the job.

WhiteTrash · Jul 30, 2011

For the vinyl ceiling joint, don't you still have a bunch of lights left over? Just make another row 6 foot up. That will allow you to make one cut and get 2 usable pieces. And who doesn't like more light? Put it on a separate switch so you only use as much light as you need, where you need it. It will help keep electric bills down.

shopnut · Jul 31, 2011

WhiteTrash said:
For the vinyl ceiling joint, don't you still have a bunch of lights left over? Just make another row 6 foot up. That will allow you to make one cut and get 2 usable pieces. And who doesn't like more light? Put it on a separate switch so you only use as much light as you need, where you need it. It will help keep electric bills down.

You MUST have read the whole thread - I’m impressed. It’s funny, because when I originally bought those fixtures, I only wanted 30 of them but the guy insisted I take all 42. Now, I wish he would‘ve had 50.

Here’s where they are (or will be) going:

Upstairs Office = 4
Upstairs Office Attic = 2
Side Bay = 12 (replacing existing T12 fixtures, adding 4X)
Main Bay (Rear) = 4
Workbench Tasklight = 1
Main Bay (Sides) = 8 (just installed 4 of them)
Main Bay (Under doors) = 4
Front Loft Interior = 2

Total = 37 (only 5 extra!)

What I haven’t included in the list is a center fixture in the main bay, because I need to use some other fixture besides this recessed type. This is going to be a suspended fixture sharing the hoist track for the front loft. It will be able to slide towards the loft for bulb changes. I think it is important to place some lights in the center to shine down between the cars parked in the main bay.

But I like your idea about adding a second row of lights up from the ones I’m installing right now. And if I could get them to line up roughly with the ones in the bottom of the exhaust duct, I think that would really look good too. The only problem is, I will have no way to change the bulbs in them once the scaffold goes away. So the second row really should be within arm’s reach of the library ladder (maybe 4’ max from the other fixtures ???). I’m 3 fixtures short of having enough to add the extra rows, but I could probably buy some more or skip installing the extra 4 in the side bay - it’s pretty bright in there the way it is.

One more thing to ponder on. Thanks WhiteTrash (I think

)!

shopnut · Aug 2, 2011

FINISHING THE WINDOW JAMBS…

I couldn’t find any material at Lowes that would make this job any easier so I just finished the windows that same way I did the first two in the back of the bay - THE HARD WAY! Here are some shots:

Here’s a somewhat funky panoramic view (trust me, bottom edge of the white vinyl is actually straight

):

For material, I used the standard clapboard style vinyl siding planks and cut out a profile that reaches from window frame out to the finished outer wall (about 5” deep in my case). Sitting on top is the "net" profile extracted and hopefully you can see where it came from in the “as-purchased” part. The finished part has 1/2” S-curve at one end to hide the shimmed gaps around the window. On the other end, there’s a small downward lip to meet the J-channel window trim.

Scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it works okay, but the random simulated wood grain can sometimes lead the snap line on a different path and you end up with a crooked cut. To avoid this, I used a metal shear to make clean/straight cuts in the vinyl. It’s the same shear I used to cut the corrugated metal exterior siding panels around the windows.

Wingnut65 · Aug 3, 2011

They look great. You don't have any easy projects, do you? Even window trim is deeply involved. But great idea to think outside the box and use materials on hand for other purposes.

shopnut · Aug 3, 2011

Thanks Jeff.

Maybe I make the projects TOO hard, I don't know. Often, I find myself saying "There HAS to be an easier way", but I'm sure we all do that. I don't mind putting in the extra effort because I intend to keep this place for a long, long time. Unfortunately, us DIY'ers sometimes just aren't aware of the best techniques out there to make our lives easier. In my case, working alone and at these heights also presents challenges that can make even the seemingly simple jobs much more difficult.

The bottom line is, I'm basically doing what seems right to me, no matter how crazy some of it may look to the rest of the GJ clan.

BTW, when are you going to get a thread going about your place? I saw the picture in RL's thread and thought the black hinges were a nice touch on the overhead door. I'm sure you have a bunch more things to share with us.

Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

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