Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

Red Leader · Sep 18, 2011

shopnut said:
Hey mpire - who gave you permission to post that link?!?!?

Oh yeah, it was me.

Thanks to mpire, you now can download the label file. It was certainly timely with R1chy asking for it.

This is how they will print out:

This is how they are intended to go on:

Just a few notes...
Spots for double pole breakers for the 220V devices (Water Heater, Range, Welder, etc.) are "merged" cells. Unmerge them and merge others as needed.

Use the "Fill Cell" menu to change colors and group things together.

When the label is cut down the middle, each side is 2" wide so standard packing tape can be used to stick over the top of it. Allowing a 1/2" of tape to overhang on the top and bottom makes it easy to stick it to the panel.

I have a GE Power Mark Gold Load Center with 1/2" high breakers. If yours is different, you may have to adjust row heights to match.

The line 1 and line 2 (red and blue "HOT") slots alternate on my load center - yours may be different.

Ask questions if you are having trouble.

Maybe if enough people use this, the next place I buy will finally have good labels on the breakers! Good luck.

One last thing - if you find these labels or anything else in this thread useful, feel free to use the "tip jar" (thread Rating menu on the upper right) - it serves as FUEL for the FIRE!
BETTER YET... Post up pictures here of your own labels installed on your panel. I would love to see people actually using them.

Sweet!

I gotta check this out!!! Thanks!

shopnut · Sep 18, 2011

Red Leader said:
Lookin' good!

I'm excited for what it is going to look like when it is done. I keep trying to envision it in my head, but whatever is up there in my brain will probably be overshadowed by your awesomeness.

Keep up the excellent work.

-RL

Thanks RL. The next update(s) should help make sense out of all this - as if anything in my shop really makes sense

Good luck with those breaker labels.

Wingnut65 · Sep 19, 2011

Nice Logo! :thumbup:

shopnut · Sep 19, 2011

Wingnut65 said:
Nice Logo!

It's still a work-in-progress, but it's coming along. I now have a pretty clear vision for the sign that will mount up on the main rafter. It will have brushed aluminum letters (to match my walls) stood off of a yellow background panel. There will be black outline on the letters and background board. I might have to work some checkered flag striping into the background as well. If all goes well, I will reveal it in a couple of days (edit: the design that is, not the actual sign). Hopefully it is something I can build myself without too much difficulty.

For now, this is what my avatar looks like full size. Click to enlarge:

(Edit) Here it is in yellow and the colors it needs to match...

I wanted to personally thank you Wingnut65 for "pushing" me to get going on this. Your ideas helped a bunch.

Tripp P. · Sep 19, 2011

Just finish reading through. What an awesome place! Makes me wish I had a little more room.

shopnut · Sep 19, 2011

Tripp P. said:
Just finish reading through. What an awesome place! Makes me wish I had a little more room.

Thanks Tripp. Remember, more room just means there's more to clean up when the job is done

Still trying to come up with some cool (or at least witty) names for that shop of yours. Seems like it should be easy with a name like Tripp, but I'm drawing a blank :headscrat

Oh well, I'm sure you're enjoying that nice place, name or no name.

mdbeck1 · Sep 19, 2011

shopnut said:
Thanks Tripp. Remember, more room just means there's more to clean up when the job is done

Still trying to come up with some cool (or at least witty) names for that shop of yours. Seems like it should be easy with a name like Tripp, but I'm drawing a blank

Oh well, I'm sure you're enjoying that nice place, name or no name.

How about something to do with a Tripp Hammer????

shopnut · Sep 19, 2011

mdbeck1 said:
How about something to do with a Tripp Hammer????

Had to look that one up mdbeck1 - I've seen them before, just didn't know what they were called. Thanks for the education.

You probably should toss your suggestions in over in his thread - he may not be back here to see them.

shopnut · Sep 19, 2011

ATTACHING THE LADDER HANGER TO THE CARRIAGE…

Here’s the hinge leaf mounted temporarily on the carriage. I would prefer to have the hinge pivot point a bit closer to the top of the rail, but I’ll give this arrangement a try. I have a backup plan in mind, however, that involves flipping these around 180 to get them lower.

I clamped the hanger onto the carriage to take these shots. Positions represent ladder stored (hanging straight down) and ladder deployed for use at the 15-20 degree angle. Without the ladder there, gravity will make the hanger hang plumb.

Here’s how the hanger allows attachment of the ladder. The top rung will slide down in the white cross channel. In one picture, I’m holding the hanger about 4” below the rung. In the other, it is fully engaged on the rung. When attaching the ladder to the carriage, the ladder will “kick” the bottom of the hanger out and the hook will be in position to capture the top rung. Then, the ladder is slide down to lock it in place. Keep in mind, the ladder will at an angle for stability while all this is happening (deployed position) - so it won’t want to tip over backwards onto a car or something!

Next I will get everything bolted together so it will support the weight of the ladder and then I can give it a try. I’m crossing my fingers.

tinbender 66 · Sep 19, 2011

Y'all be careful up there

Red Leader · Sep 20, 2011

Really like the new logo in your avatar. New, right?

I'm glad to see this thread back on the 1st page.

...every now and then it gets bumped to the second page, and I get a little distraught...

...but then it moves right back to the front page again, and all is well in the world

Omphaloskeptic · Sep 20, 2011

Shopnut, I just dunno'. :headscrat

The attachment security when the ladder transitions from stored to deployed and vice-versa seems kinda hinky to me. I can't explain why, it seems like it would want to pop out of the channel.

schwalby · Sep 20, 2011

In your first picture there doesn't seem to be much clearance between the rail and the hinge. Any chance it may bind on one of the corners or any slight sag in the rail?

shopnut · Sep 20, 2011

tinbender 66 said:
Y'all be careful up there

Thanks - I will. I’m doing everything I can to make the ladder structure as safe/secure as possible. Now I just need to try and not fall off of it! I’m really spoiled after having the scaffold set up for over 5 years - I think I’m actually going to miss it.

Red Leader said:
Really like the new logo in your avatar. New, right?

I'm glad to see this thread back on the 1st page.

...every now and then it gets bumped to the second page, and I get a little distraught...

...but then it moves right back to the front page again, and all is well in the world

Yep, its a new logo and it will go on in some way or fashion to be the official sign mounted up in the Asylum somewhere. Thanks for your comment. It was discussed briefly in reply #764 That darn Wingnut65 prompted me to get off my **** and waste time on it (oops, I mean work on it)

Years ago I would post an update and it would stay on the first or second list page for 1-2 weeks. Nowadays, a thread will be buried 3 or 4 pages down in less than a week! There must be a bunch more members on here now (not that there’s anything wrong with that!)

If people are interested in what I’m doing here, they can still find my thread easily enough (no matter what page to has been bumped down to) by clicking on the “Replies” or “Views” heading at the top of the list columns on the gallery home page. Doing this will perform a sort and bring the thread close to the top. Sorting on “Rating”, incidentally, brings my City Shop up near the top of the list.

shopnut · Sep 20, 2011

Omphaloskeptic said:
Shopnut, I just dunno'.
The attachment security when the ladder transitions from stored to deployed and vice-versa seems kinda hinky to me. I can't explain why, it seems like it would want to pop out of the channel.

With Wingnut65 having me side-tracked a bit on the whole logo/sign thing, I’m lagging behind on posting the results of the ladder prototype. I’m further along than the pictures show and everything is actually working better than I imagined, even with a few pitfalls along the way. More updates (and pix) are coming soon that will explain this contraption much better.

To quickly answer your question now, keep in mind the ladder is lifted completely off the floor when going from one mode to the other so there is always downward force on the carriage hanger from the ladder rung. Think of the upper ladder section just hanging there on the carriage and you are merely lifting the lower section to change the ladder length.

There are only two instances when the ladder feet will be on the ground. One being when it’s deployed at an angle and I’m climbing up and down. The other is when I’m removing the ladder to use outside the Asylum somewhere. In the case of removal, you plant the ladder feet and pull the rope to raise the upper section like a normal extension ladder, freeing it from the carriage hanger. I WILL, however, have some type of positive ladder retention method up there in the hanger (pins?) that will help avoid any hazards.

schwalby said:
In your first picture there doesn't seem to be much clearance between the rail and the hinge. Any chance it may bind on one of the corners or any slight sag in the rail?

Very keen of you Schwalby. Although corners aren’t a problem since the middle of the carriage pulls away from the rail in the corners, clearance on the straights have been a concern of mine too. The picture above is a bit deceiving and there is about 3/8” clearance to the rail. I like to hope that is ample since the rail sections are not bowed (vertically) and I was pretty carefully to hang them all level. Here’s a slightly better picture:

You will see in a future update, however, that I did in fact rotate the hinges 180 degrees to move the pivot point down closer to the rail AND gain some side clearance for rail mounting bolts. I wanted to do that from the beginning, but I thought I would try the unmolested Jeep hinges first and that is what you are seeing in these first pictures. I just wasn’t happy so I have to invoke my backup plan. Even with the updated version, I still suspect there still may be an occasional scuff and I may need to keep some touch-up paint handy.

I REALLY need to get those updates ready to help you guys visualize this.

schwalby · Sep 20, 2011

I figured you had seen and adjusted / verified that there was or wasn't a clearence issue. Was going to give myself a gold star for the day though if you hadn't.

Wingnut65 · Sep 20, 2011

I now understand the ladder system and how the inverted panel track fits into the system. I'm sure the next updates will show the ladder in action. BTW, I assume you are using the scaffolding to take pictures of the top of the ladder, since you can't just take a step back to take the shot. :headscrat

I'm glad I could be of some inspiration to the advancement and improvement of your magnificent shop. :thumbup:

Even if it is just the sign that hangs in the Asylum! I know my engineering skills and ideas are far behind where you are now. I had never even heard of pneumatics in a shop before here!

All my various font ideas really got your gears working. Then a little tweaking and you have a cool logo. :thumbup:

But I'm still trying to figure out an idea for flybefree's shop logo... :lol:

shopnut · Sep 20, 2011

Wingnut65 said:
I now understand the ladder system and how the inverted panel track fits into the system. I'm sure the next updates will show the ladder in action. BTW, I assume you are using the scaffolding to take pictures of the top of the ladder, since you can't just take a step back to take the shot.

I'm glad I could be of some inspiration to the advancement and improvement of your magnificent shop. Even if it is just the sign that hangs in the Asylum! I know my engineering skills and ideas are far behind where you are now. I had never even heard of pneumatics in a shop before here!

All my various font ideas really got your gears working. Then a little tweaking and you have a cool logo.

But I'm still trying to figure out an idea for flybefree's shop logo...

Yep, all those pictures so far are from the scaffolding. In some later ones, my vantage point is out the second story windows because once the ladder is detached from the scaffolding, I really hate to climb up it's sides. And yes, right again, the ladder's maiden voyage is in the next update.

You’re making me blush with your kind words

- cut that out! I really never have taken compliments very well, but thanks just the same.

The Asylum sign needs some more work but I think it will fit in nicely here. As with the rest of the Asylum, I’m really not trying to win any awards for interior design and I’m sure most of you think it’s all a bit strange looking. But I’m just doing what I think looks best and works best for me because I’m the one that will be living with it for many years to come. (I do think the “The” at 90 degrees looks much better on the logo than what I started with - thanks very much for that tip.)

I’m with you - I think it may take a team of experts to work on flybefree’s (and wife's) logo/signage. That’s going to be a tough one!

Your timing is perfect in regards to pneumatics as I just received the last of my goodies in the mail yesterday so I will roll right into this:

BETTER CONTROL OF THE POWER WINDOWS…

No, this actuator is not going to be used to open any windows. I was buying some other pneumatic parts on the auction site and I saw this little gem available from the same seller. Best thing was it cost only $10 so it is now mine (note the marked price). The internal piston and slide table are magnetically coupled, which I found interesting. It only has an 8” stroke and I don’t know what I’m going to do with it yet, but I’m sure I’ll think of something.

The reason why I mention it, however, is because it came with flow control fittings. When I tested it, I found that I could dial in the exact speed of the slide table as larry_g had mentioned in a prior reply. (The discussion started here: Reply #605)
They worked so well, I decided to final buy a set for the window opener actuators. Here are a couple of shots of the M5 fittings showing the little adjustment splined knobs and locknuts.

There’s certainly no rush to install them, but I’m dying to give them a try.

FlyBeFree's Wife · Sep 20, 2011

Shopnut (using the wife's iPad, she is putting the boys to sleep),

I think the logo looks great, captures the style of your space perfectly. Look forward to seeing the ladder system in action. Now I need a logo too!

Shaun

shopnut · Sep 20, 2011

Oh darn, it's just you Shaun

- I got all excited when I saw the GJ member name!

(Don't get to talk to too many women on here, you know!)

Did you see the comments about YOUR logo in the replies above? Sorry, we just couldn't resist!

But seriously, we will try to help any way we can :thumbup:

And thanks for your seal of approval.

Wingnut65 · Sep 20, 2011

shopnut, I really can't take all the credit for starting this logo thing, it was wolflrv that suggested I could keep some thin wood doors from warping if I made my shop name out of wood to reinforce my door. One thing lead to another and not you are planning how to build you sign with checkerboard flags. :thumbup:

I do have fun being creative with them and your 90 degree “The” makes yours Pop. Maybe I should learn Photoshop to step them up a notch... someday!

Omphaloskeptic · Sep 21, 2011

Shopnut, I'm not sure about the use for the new air actuators, but I'm looking forward to the day when you integrate them into HAL's (Home Automation Link) system matrix and everything comes under the control of the L.S.D.'s (Lake Side Dock) H.I.S. (Human Interface Subsystem)...

Shopnut - "HAL, I need a 5/8" socket and a 3/8" stubby ratchet, please."

HAL - "Shopnut, I will activate the maintenance droid to obtain the desired tools. Will you require any extensions for the requested tools?"

Shopnut - "No HAL, just those two items, please"

HAL - "That's good Shopnut, would you like another 'cold one' while the droid is at it? It's really no problem, I just have to cycle the pneumatic actuator on the beer refrigerator door and the droid can retrieve it."

Shopnut - "Sure HAL, I could use another beer."

HAL - "Shopnut, Please be careful while you are on the vertical excursion structure; I'm not sure my medical subroutines can accommodate a fall from that height."

Shopnut - "No worries HAL, I have no intention of falling o-f-f-O-H-H-H-S-S-S-H-H-H-I-I-I-T-T-T!!!"

THUD-SPLAT

HAL - "Shopnut, I'm sorry, I must have inadvertently cycled the vertical excursion structure's pneumatic locking device instead of the one for the beer refrigeratior. I'm sorry Shopnut, I really am. I don't know how I made that mistake, I really don't, I've never made that error before, and you know Shopnut, the Series 9000 have never made an error before. Shopnut..., Shopnut, are you there? Hello?.......Oops! :lol_hitti

Wingnut65 · Sep 21, 2011

.

.

.

.

Hey, shopnut, I want a HAL!

You've been holding out on us. How does Omphaloskeptic know all your secrets?

Thanks, O. That was great! :beer:

shopnut · Sep 21, 2011

Omphaloskeptic said:
Shopnut, I'm not sure about the use for the new air actuators...

<snip>

- you crack me up! I really hope this isn't a foreshadowing though! You always seem to have a lot of insight, but in this case I hope you are wrong. :wtf:

Your story did give me an idea for that new actuator though, and it involves beer again (imagine that!). I could mount it inside the fridge and use that 8" of stroke to push the beers from the back of the fridge to the front where I don't have to stoop down to reach them. I work hard enough - I shouldn't have to work to grab a beer!

That project is "within reach" don't you think?

Wingnut65 said:
. . . .

Hey, shopnut, I want a HAL!

You've been holding out on us. How does Omphaloskeptic know all your secrets?

Thanks, O. That was great!

Secrets? Why I don't have any secrets, my good man. (HaHaHa - in a sinister laugh)

Along the lines of a HAL, I've been looking at PLCs (Programmable Logic Controllers) and I can get used ones for under $200 with enough I/O (Input/Output) to do some interesting things. I would just need to move my old computer out to the Asylum so I could program it, but I've been wanting to to that for a number of other reasons anyway.

Omphaloskeptic · Sep 21, 2011

Thanks guys, I'm glad my late night ramblings provide a smile or two!

Shopnut, with your technical background and other great skills, you will have HAL or its equivalent controlling the shop systems in no time. I like the idea of the Beer'O'Lator; no sense in straining the back just reaching for a cold one.

Knowing your way around pneumatic systems as you do, I suspect before too long you will create the On-Demand-Beer-2-Me (ODB2M) system. Just like the clear plastic delivery tube system they use at banks drive-thru tellers, your ODB2M system would be routed to various places in the shop, office, apartment, bathroom!, or even out to the boat dock! Voice command driven, the A.P.E.S. (Audio Positioning Electronic Subsystem) would recognize the voice command - "Barkeep, another cold one please", and the I.C.B.M. (Ice Cold Beer Machine) would launch a cold one from deep with the reefer and directed to its target (you) via the air-controlled diverter which selects the proper pneumatic tube, depending on where it 'heard' your request. Ahh... TECHNOLOGY, its a wonderful thing; freeing mankind from mundane tasks and allowing our creative juices to freely flow! :beer:

Vernmotor · Sep 21, 2011

I can't even think of a reply for all this stuff..LMAO!! OBDIIM too funny !

shopnut · Sep 21, 2011

Omphaloskeptic,

Good idea but that one was already considered for production but never made it past the marketing folks.

Reply #632
With all the bells and whistles that you added, however, plus a fancy acronym to name it, it might just be worth another try.

I'm going to resubmit the project for approval - who knows, we may get it through this time. :thumbup:

And I would love to have the first prototype of THAT in my shop! :beer:

shopnut · Sep 21, 2011

Vernmotor said:
I can't even think of a reply for all this stuff..LMAO!! OBDIIM too funny !

That guy is just over the top, isn't he? I'm glad he's around to add some humor here - it was pretty boring early on.

shopnut · Sep 21, 2011

THE (LIBRARY LADDER) MOMENT OF TRUTH HAS COME …

After drilling a few more holes to temporarily bolt the ladder hanger together, it was time to give it a try.

Since the top rung was a little difficult to slide into the white hanger, I decided to file off some small ribs extruded on the front surface of the rung to grip shoes. I’m never going to step on that particular spot anyway. The little flange on the leading edge of the white extrusion really worked nicely in guiding the rung in.

So on to hooking the ladder up - this went as expected. Here are some shots with it in the “deployed” position. One thing I had to be mindful of was clearing the C-shaped rail hangers with the top legs of the ladder. With the rungs lined up on the two ladder sections, the ladder was sitting at 19.5 degrees from vertical which seemed about right for climbing up/down and the ladder didn’t stick out too far into the room.

Here is the ladder in the “stored” position. It will hang tight against the wall when not in use and just hover off the ground so it is easy to move around the perimeter on the shop.

There were a couple minor issues that arose during this trial session:

First, I think I will rework the hinges to bring the pivot point closer to the rail (Plan “B” as mentioned in prior posts). It seemed marginally acceptable as is, but lowering it a 1/2” will make a world of difference.

Second, I noticed that it doesn’t take much effort at all to roll the carriage back and forth while up there on the ladder. Unfortunately, this happens when the ladder feet are stationary (maybe I could put wheels on the bottom like my buddy Call Me The Breeze suggested and tool around while up there.

See Reply #572). The movement is probably acceptable as is, but I will consider adding a brake of some type (perhaps a toggle clamp???) or pin to engage any one of the hundreds of holes in the yellow rail. Locking the carriage from moving when I’m going to get a little overzealous up there might be smart. For a quick trip up to change a light bulb - probably not needed.

Much more to come on the L.L. saga... (but I’m enjoying it immensely)

(All these pictures remind me that I’m only roughly 4 hours away from having that north wall cladded in white vinyl and completely finished - it needs to move to the top of the list because I could go for good shot in the arm of garage adrenalin!)

Red Leader · Sep 21, 2011

Looks cool! I wonder if you are able to kick that ladder out just a bit if that might put a little more downforce against the rollers and keep it from swaying once you get up there. Or maybe a custom built ladder that doesn't have as much flex...maybe built out of angle iron or something?

EDIT after looking at your pictures more closely it looks like my suggestions wouldn't really pan out since it is helpful to 'telescope' the ladder (for lack of a better term) to store upright and kicking it out any further would make the steps unlevel.

If you could find a way to lock it via a rope from the group travelling in eyelet type bolts into the side of the ladder or something similar to that (actually, don't compromise the ladder side), that would be pretty cool.

Omphaloskeptic · Sep 22, 2011

Shopnut, that is quite the elegant solution to mate the ladder and trolley.

Just a possible fix for the trolley travel when you are up there. How about a couple of hard rubber cones to jamb down into the groove of each pair of trolley wheels. The cones could just hang from the wheel trunnion by a short cable lanyard. When you are up there, each cone would be jammed from above down between the two wheels; effectively a wedge.

An additional idea is to drill four holes into the ladder edge, where it mates to the pivoting arms. Then obtain some locking pins through the four sets of holes to lock the ladder and pivot assembly together as a unit. This would resist the racking motion when/if the trolley started to travel.

Both ideas require no tools to join/separate the two pieces, but would require you to climb up there first to engage/disengage the safety items.

Omphaloskeptic · Sep 22, 2011

Re: Post 632

Shopnut, I totally forgot that idea was broached before my little submission! Oh well, you may be right, with enough nifty acronyms, buzzwords, and marketing magic, you may be able to sell the whole package to some Silicon Valley V.C.'s. Of course, the prototype MUST be built and tested at the world famous 'ASYLUM LABS'. :thumbup:

As for that remark - "That guy is just over the top", thank you! I'll take that as a complement. I can add that to being told "You've gone round the bend". :lol_hitti

shopnut · Sep 22, 2011

Red Leader said:
Looks cool! I wonder if you are able to kick that ladder out just a bit if that might put a little more downforce against the rollers and keep it from swaying once you get up there. Or maybe a custom built ladder that doesn't have as much flex...maybe built out of angle iron or something?

EDIT after looking at your pictures more closely it looks like my suggestions wouldn't really pan out since it is helpful to 'telescope' the ladder (for lack of a better term) to store upright and kicking it out any further would make the steps unlevel.

Thanks RL. You figured it out yourself, but the timing is probably good for others to drag this old CAD image back up showing the two ladder positions. Disregard the rail connection method because the original concept of an under-slung ladder quickly gave way to the safer over-slung design that you see in real parts in the photos above (CAD is not updated yet). I went over-slung because the ladder would simply fall against the yellow rail if something failed on the carriage. Although, I’m still not sure this is the case in the corners with the ladder being further away - need to check that yet.

Red Leader said:
If you could find a way to lock it via a rope from the group travelling in eyelet type bolts into the side of the ladder or something similar to that (actually, don't compromise the ladder side), that would be pretty cool.

From your description, I’m picturing a fishing rod set-up to guide a rope up the ladder and that WOULD be cool. For now though, I think I’m going to go simple. I picture myself deciding whether to engage the carriage lock or not once I’m up there because it depends on the task being done. At that point I will just flip a lever or insert a pin if needed. BUT, I’ll probably climb all the way down before remembering to UNLOCK it and have to climb back up before being able to move the ladder carriage (Doh!). I see it as valuable so I’m adding it to the list of upgrades for when I want to get real fancy. Thanks and keep the ideas coming!

shopnut · Sep 22, 2011

Omphaloskeptic said:
Shopnut, that is quite the elegant solution to mate the ladder and trolley.

Thanks, but it’s mostly a hodgepodge of misc parts I had on hand from other projects. So far the hinge and some special fasteners are all I had to purchase. Of course, I’m sure I paid for that other stuff at one point or another.

Omphaloskeptic said:
Just a possible fix for the trolley travel when you are up there. How about a couple of hard rubber cones to jamb down into the groove of each pair of trolley wheels. The cones could just hang from the wheel trunnion by a short cable lanyard. When you are up there, each cone would be jammed from above down between the two wheels; effectively a wedge.

I’ve seen wheel chocks for tandem axle trailers that function similar to this and I’m guessing it would work great. I will add that to the list of choices. Thanks.

Omphaloskeptic said:
An additional idea is to drill four holes into the ladder edge, where it mates to the pivoting arms. Then obtain some locking pins through the four sets of holes to lock the ladder and pivot assembly together as a unit. This would resist the racking motion when/if the trolley started to travel.

You know, all along I’ve been considering methods of holding the top ladder rung in the hanger channel itself, but this doesn’t give me much spread at the anchor points - and that has bothered me. Considering I have a 16’ lever arm with the ladder, widening the lock points out to the side I-beams (as you suggest) would be beneficial. Marrying the hanger and ladder is smart too, because the hanger itself has some flex to it in a racking motion due to its single cross-member.

One thing I will have to overcome, however, is the fact that I designed the hanger to give some latitude side-to-side (+/- 0.5”) when dropping the ladder in there. Some type of locking pins there may require the ladder to be aligned nearly perfect to insert them. I’ve been considering some type of Vee guides to assist with ladder placement and that would make your idea viable with the current hard parts in front of me. It’s time to ponder on this a bit more.

Again, great input.

Omphaloskeptic said:
Both ideas require no tools to join/separate the two pieces, but would require you to climb up there first to engage/disengage the safety items.

“No tools” is a must for operation of this entire system. See RL's suggestion above for some type of remote actuation from the ground - it might work nicely with your wedge idea for a carriage brake.

Omphaloskeptic said:
Re: Post 632

Shopnut, I totally forgot that idea was broached before my little submission! Oh well, you may be right, with enough nifty acronyms, buzzwords, and marketing magic, you may be able to sell the whole package to some Silicon Valley V.C.'s. Of course, the prototype MUST be built and tested at the world famous 'ASYLUM LABS'.

But you sure did make that ODB2M sound SOOOOOO much better!

I like the sound of ASYLUM LABS. Kind of reminds me of early on in the Asylum build where the guys at work wanted me to call it the “GATOR WORKS” after Lockheed’s “SKUNK WORKS”, but with a Florida twist. For those that don’t know, “SKUNK WORKS” is their advanced development branch. My coworkers thought the seclusion of my place would be great for some top secret projects. I liked the name (although, I’m not sure how many people would actually “get” the meaning), but I didn’t like the idea of mixing work with pleasure at the Asylum - its purpose is 100% pleasure!

Omphaloskeptic said:
As for that remark - "That guy is just over the top", thank you! I'll take that as a complement. I can add that to being told "You've gone round the bend".

Sorry Ompha - My compliments should be direct and not make people wonder what I mean by it. It’s great to have you “visiting” and brightening up this place. This forum has become so much more fun lately for me. I do fear my productivity is diminishing a bit lately, but oh well.

shopnut · Sep 23, 2011

THE LIBRARY LADDER HINGES ARE MODIFIED…

Here’s the old, as-delivered, Jeep tailgate hinges mounted on the LL carriage:

And here are the modified ones that moved the pivot pin about 1/2” down closer to the yellow rail. Unfortunately, I don’t have anything with enough tonnage for the forming job, so I had to rely on using impact energy to my advantage (translation: I beat the heck out of them with a big hammer):

I feel this change was needed to minimize the torque (caused by the leaning ladder) trying to swing the carriage on the rail. The weight of the chain hoist helped counterbalance it, but the hoist won’t always be there. The hinge is now very close to the swing point of the carriage (contact point of rollers on rail).

One last shot showing the hanger back on:

Here’s a commercially available ladder system that functions similar to mine. Note that it as swiveling wheels at the top for navigating corners and there are no wheels at the bottom so it also must be swung up off the floor to be moved. The big difference is my ladder also retracts in length so it can swing in and store against the wall when not in use.

Modern Stainless Ladders “VARIO” model.

<EDIT>
Here are some additional shots of the carriage navigating the rail bend:

mdbeck1 · Sep 23, 2011

shopnut said:
.... (translation: I beat the heck out of them with a big hammer):

You DONT have a 20 ton press to do those "small" projects? I thought that you had EVERY tool known to man???? :shocking:

Some of us have to use more of that "low tech" solution more often. I've also been known to use a jack and a piece of firewood to straighten the fenders on my trailer....

All kidding aside... You've got a nice build. I check it daily. :thumbup:

shopnut · Sep 23, 2011

Thanks mdbeck1, glad to have you along on this crazy ride.

I've been so focused on the built-in features here that some of the basic portable tools are lacking. I will concentrate on those right after I get my main docking workbench built. But I can't touch the workbench until the long task list shown earlier is behind me.

I really can't wait to do some real "playing" in here (like cars and bikes) - its been a long long road of construction so far.

mdbeck1 · Sep 24, 2011

shopnut said:
Thanks mdbeck1, glad to have you along on this crazy ride.

I've been so focused on the built-in features here that some of the basic portable tools are lacking. I will concentrate on those right after I get my main docking workbench built. But I can't touch the workbench until the long task list shown earlier is behind me.

I really can't wait to do some real "playing" in here (like cars and bikes) - its been a long long road of construction so far.

I have a modest 20X21 two car garage. Six to nine months ago I decide that I had had enough. The bathroom/utility room remodel was finished and I had to get my garage back. I hauled, organized, and straightened. Along the way I've had to stop working on the garage and get some "projects" done. I can now get a car (my hunting jeep) in to work on it (another project) for some emergency repairs before hunting season. The garage isn't finished but then again it probably NEVER will be.

All of this is to say that the garage construction/arrangement/upgrades are neat but we have them for a reason. Once in a while we need to work on a project to remind ourselves that we aren't building the garage just to look at. It's supposed to have a use. Take a break from the garage construction and just "enjoy" what you already have. The garage will still be there.

rickairmedic · Sep 24, 2011

The library ladder is looking great I like the idea

. I also agree with Md. Time to put the construction tools down for a little bet and get that Chevelle in there for some Love

.

Rick

Red Leader · Sep 24, 2011

shopnut said:
Thanks RL. You figured it out yourself, but the timing is probably good for others to drag this old CAD image back up showing the two ladder positions. Disregard the rail connection method because the original concept of an under-slung ladder quickly gave way to the safer over-slung design that you see in real parts in the photos above (CAD is not updated yet). I went over-slung because the ladder would simply fall against the yellow rail if something failed on the carriage. Although, I’m still not sure this is the case in the corners with the ladder being further away - need to check that yet.

From your description, I’m picturing a fishing rod set-up to guide a rope up the ladder and that WOULD be cool. For now though, I think I’m going to go simple. I picture myself deciding whether to engage the carriage lock or not once I’m up there because it depends on the task being done. At that point I will just flip a lever or insert a pin if needed. BUT, I’ll probably climb all the way down before remembering to UNLOCK it and have to climb back up before being able to move the ladder carriage (Doh!). I see it as valuable so I’m adding it to the list of upgrades for when I want to get real fancy. Thanks and keep the ideas coming!

Yep, that's what I was thinking, and by 'group' I meant 'ground', but you probably already figured that out. One side could be the 'engaging' side, and the other side could disengage it. You could tie knots along the way up the side of the ladder so whenever you remember it is still locked (all the way on the ground or halfway up headed down

) you can just pull on it from wherever you and and whala, unlocked!

I think the biggest reason why I think it would be good to do it was that you could lock it from the ground before you ever set foot on the ladder which would decrease the risk of the temptation to not go through the 'hassle' of locking it with a pin or whatever once you're at the top since you're 'just going to be up there for 1 second' like all of us are, but that 1 second is all it takes for things to get shaky.

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