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Moving Shed Prior to New Garage Build

danieldd

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Dec 10, 2010
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Southern Tennesseee
I finally have the money to get a 24X24 garage built. I had to sell my Tundra to make it happen, but thats okay - I'll have another truck down the road, but right now I need another garage so I can work on my 928.

Anyway, I built a 12X16 shed about ten years ago and now I want to put the garage right where the existing shed is. Therefore, either the shed has to move or it has to be torn down. My back yard is not all that large, so I have limited options as to where to locate the shed. However, I believe I have a potential area where it can go - as long as the city approves its new location.

The problem is how to move the shed. When I originally built it, I had a slab poured and then I built on top of it and secured it with j-bolts. If I attempt to move it, I'll have to lift it off the j-bolts and somehow insert some PVC pipe under it and move it across the yard - some 100 feet away.

What I need are ideas on how to prepare it for moving as there is no floor underneath it. I figured initially to brace the structure at several points within the shed, but my concern is the pvc bowing in the middle of the shed once I have it rolling along, thus causing problems with the pipe either breaking or causing other issues.

Another issue is the 6 foot opening I have on the shed right now, which further complicates the issue as to how to brace it so it doesn't just twist and fall down during the move.

My garage builder suggested ripping of the shingles and the roof decking, removing the ceiling trusses and cutting the shed at the 4 corners and moving the walls intact. While this is an option, it means I'll have to re-assemble it at the new location - I don't know if this is a viable option.

Here are a couple of pictures of my current dilemma:

All suggestions are most welcomed.....

IMG_2621.jpg


Here is the opening of the shed..

IMG_2622.jpg
 
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Nighttrain

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Aug 6, 2009
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Dripping Springs, Tx
How about 6 2x12 bolted (across the width) to the studs on the inside about a 6" off the ground evenly spaced. You can use these to jack the shed up off the j-bolts. Then put two 4x6 16' long under those (with stacked 2x4') to act as runners. Then just two it across the yard to where you want it.
 
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danieldd

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Southern Tennesseee
How about 6 2x12 bolted (across the width) to the studs on the inside about a 6" off the ground evenly spaced. You can use these to jack the shed up off the j-bolts. Then put two 4x6 16' long under those (with stacked 2x4') to act as runners. Then just two it across the yard to where you want it.

I like the bracing idea with the 2x12s, but am concerned about how to attach the 4x6s and then I'm worried about ripping up the back yard trying to skid it across the grass. Then there is the issue of how to transition off the skids back onto a new foundation. Guess I should have said that the new foundation won't be a concrete one, rather a wooden one that I will have to build prior to the move..
 

ozyborn

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Apr 26, 2011
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When I moved my shed (10x14), I used 10 friends. I lag bolted in some handles directly to the outside studs. Screwed a couple 2x6 across the doors. Then Lifted, carried it over and set it back down.
 

brihvac

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Dec 21, 2011
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North Wilmington, Delaware
Believe it or not it might be worth renting a small crane. When I do small rooftop HVAC units I pay about $150. for a half an hour.

Also make sure you check with your town. Where I am at you can not take up more than a certain percentage of your yard.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Is it possible to use the trusses as a jacking point to raise it up 6" and put some metal conduit under it ?

Of course still addding some interior bracing.
 
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danieldd

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Southern Tennesseee
When I moved my shed (10x14), I used 10 friends. I lag bolted in some handles directly to the outside studs. Screwed a couple 2x6 across the doors. Then Lifted, carried it over and set it back down.

Geez, you've got some strong friends! A neat idea - I would probably need twice that much and then I'd have to worry about crushed toes!
 

Alchymist

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Mar 1, 2009
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Central PA
When I moved my shed (10x14), I used 10 friends. I lag bolted in some handles directly to the outside studs. Screwed a couple 2x6 across the doors. Then Lifted, carried it over and set it back down.

Geez, you've got some strong friends! A neat idea - I would probably need twice that much and then I'd have to worry about crushed toes!

Piece of cake...
 
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rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
2 ways

install X bracing at several places in the shed. just 2x4s nailed in place will do

then move on rollers as you segested...

option 2
use a trailer like a flat trailer that you can slide it onto and slide it off where you want it

ok, another option
make some metal 'skis' like from 2x6 box material that you put under the shed and bolt ot them and the use a truck or ATV to drag it acrross the yard

and another option...see of there is some place that you can borrow some mobile home axles from and jack up the shed and just put those under it to move it and then drop is down in reverse

bob
 

popeye31

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Nov 21, 2011
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24
Location
Louisiana
I think jagmandave thinks like me just rase it and build the floor under it then role it across the yard with the pvc pipe.
 

cyamaha2007

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Apr 20, 2009
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Location
St.Charles MO
Ive moved them a few times. I would get some scissor jacks from the junk yard. Install 4 2x6s from wall to wall unbolt it and jack it up from the 2x6s then make a tonge for the front install some wheels like strap a few 2 wheel dollies to the 2x6s and pull it with a four wheeler or lawn mower. We moved my uncles 12x20 detached garage like that. No real problems besides the lower sill was pretty rotted and had to be replaced.
 

ozyborn

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Apr 26, 2011
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Most of them were farmer friends of mine. If you dressed them in all grey you could use them as ogres in middle Earth. I am 6' 300lbs and bench my weight. I was almost the smallest guy there. :p
 

tj91gt

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Jan 26, 2010
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We have moved them before with a flatbed tow truck. Pretty quick and easy to do if you have enough room to get in and out.
 

BEAVO

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Aug 9, 2010
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wash ch ohio
how about putting a 2x12 toward bottom of walls from corner to corner and another across from other two corners like and X
 

mrobins297aaa

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Sep 20, 2010
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south east michigan
Here's how I moved my 17 x13 shed. It was in the way of me pouring between my asphalt drive and my barn so it had to be moved or tore down.
I rolled it on some 5" wood post i bought at tsc.
I braced the inside and then jacked it up with some screw jacks.
I put planks down and rolled it up on to the asphalt.
IMG_3664.jpg

IMG_3656.jpg

IMG_3655.jpg
 

mrobins297aaa

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Sep 20, 2010
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south east michigan
i would use those 5" wood post. You can buy them in 8' lengths form tractor supply for about $15 cut them in 18" pieces.
get some 2x8 and brace the inside, keep the braces high enough so you can get your jacks under it. you could even use a floor jack.
I would put some planks down on the grass to roll it on.........it'll be a piece of cake, I'm sure that shed don't weight much, it'll come right up.

when I moved mine I actually got to use some stuff I almost thru out a bunch of times.
I have a few of those screw jacks that you get with a ford truck, not the scissor type but the telescoping kind.........I cut the crank handle of at about 12" and put it a 1/2" drill motor and it worked great.
 
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