Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

shopnut · Feb 11, 2012

THE CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR THE TV SYSTEM (V.A.U.D.)…

Recall that I’m going forward with the design of a fully powered system to open the TV door and push the TV out of its hole. The hand wheel cranks will be Plan B. Plan A is looking very hopeful at this point, however.

Here is the simple control circuit that will be used. One single pole double throw switch will control it. Activating the switch one way will open the door and then extend the TV bracket out. Activating it the other way will retract the bracket and close the door after it. Limit switches will sequence the events by sensing the extreme positions of the door and bracket. They contain normal open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts to allow this. (You EE's out there, please don’t beat me up too bad about the symbols used and whatnot - I know some of it is not exactly right but it is just something to help me think through the logic.) Color coding will be added when components are delivered so help out with the wiring/troubleshooting later.

The Sequence of Operation (starting with TV stored):
1- Shopnut decides to watch TV and pushes rocker switch
2- Roll-up door begins to open (Shopnut rejoices and a slight giggle is heard)
3- Door stops opening when “FULL UP” limit switch is tripped (Shopnut breathes a sign of relief)
4- Shopnut decides if the TV needs to extend out from recess. If so, he keeps holding rocker switch.
4- Same door limit switch diverts power to start extending TV (Shopnut is actually amazed it works)
5- TV continues extending straight out from its recess (Shopnut swears he hears the sound of heaven's gates opening)
6- When mechanical stop is reached on right side, TV starts swiveling to left (assuming Shopnut is still holding rocker switch)
7- “FULL OUT” limit switch is tripped when bracket is extended fully. (If limit switch fails and Shopnut does not notice in time, 3500lb jack rips bracket from wall and TV crashes to floor)
8- Shopnut enjoys TV viewing from nearly all locations in shop.
9- Process is reversed to store TV during dusty shop activities. “FULL IN” and “FULL DOWN” limit switches control motors in this sequence.

I'm a little bummed though. I bought the limit switches in haste without fully reading the spec sheet. Their rating was 5 amps, which is plenty for the motor I ordered. But that was the resistive load rating. Upon closer look, they only have a 2 amp rating for a motor load, and that is marginal for this application. Worst case, I guess I can add relays or seek out higher rated switches.

The gear motors arrived and they are really cool. No sign of the switches yet, however, but I'll report on both when they show up.

tinbender 66 · Feb 11, 2012

All you need now is the theme from Space Odyssey to kick on while it is in transit. Or some other epic piece of music. I can hear it now

.

Omphaloskeptic · Feb 11, 2012

Shopnut, I don't know why, but I was kind of expecting a V.A.U.D. air-servo motor set-up, ala' the O.V.L.C.M.s. (heh-heh)

Not being an E.E./M.E./P.E. or other degree that really matters, I was wondering if a single motor (air or electric) could be coupled with a sequential 'dual-clutch' device to operate one or both elements of the V.A.U.D.? Also, it seems it wouldn't be terribly difficult to add an RS-232 (?or USB?) controller to cycle the V.A.U.D. options via a user-defined fk key script or perhaps via the alt-display fk key itself launching an option script. Just throwing the idea out there, so you don't have to stand there holding a power button while the V.A.U.D. cycles in/out/closed/open.
:dunno:

Besides the 2001 soundtrack kicking in while the V.A.U.D. is cycling, I would 'humbly suggest' you include a rotating amber warning light. I seem to recall the movie doing this when the Pod was being deployed.

P.S. - Sorry, no new buzzwords for the 'Index' this post. :lol:

schwalby · Feb 13, 2012

Hey Shopnut, Wanted to post this link up for you.

http://www.otrattw.com/

I don't know what switches you are using but I think you may want to check this guy out. They are primarily auto / marine switches but since when does that limit a use when it comes to garages. The really cool thing about these switches though is he can make custom rockers for them.

The owners name is Jim so if you shoot him an email or give him a call let him know I sent you.

shopnut · Feb 13, 2012

MOTORS AND LIMIT SWITCHES FOR THE TV MOUNT SYSTEM…

To power the TV door and bracket, I selected some 115V reversible gear motors. I found them on auction and they originally were used on adjustable hospital beds. They are similar in size to a auto starter motor. The seller had two different sizes available - the bigger one will be used for bracket extend function and the smaller for the roll-up door.

The bigger of the two didn't come with what's called a run capacitor, so I had to do a little research and this 35MFD cap was purchased to put in parallel with the wire leads.

After buying the first two motors as samples and seeing what quality units they were, I decided to ask the seller for a volume discount on more. He agreed and parted with the small ones for $10 and big ones for $12.50 each. That was such a good deal and knowing a guy at work also wanted some, I decided to buy him out. Each box has two motors in it. I felt sorry for the poor mail carrier. Two more are slated for power-assistance to my 12' garage doors. The others - who knows :dunno:

Probably power assistance for raising my lathe out of it's cabinet and for my adjustable height island workbench. And of course, it's always good to have a spare or two on hand.

Here are the four limit switches that will sense the extreme positions of the door and bracket.

I also got the spring loaded hinge all worked out for the pivoting TV mount head. Two small aluminum angles create a mount point for the extension springs.

Next, its time to adapt the motors.

shopnut · Feb 13, 2012

tinbender 66 said:
All you need now is the theme from Space Odyssey to kick on while it is in transit. Or some other epic piece of music. I can hear it now.

So can I

- Now I just hope all this works out.

Omphaloskeptic said:
Shopnut, I don't know why, but I was kind of expecting a V.A.U.D. air-servo motor set-up, ala' the O.V.L.C.M.s. (heh-heh)

Not being an E.E./M.E./P.E. or other degree that really matters, I was wondering if a single motor (air or electric) could be coupled with a sequential 'dual-clutch' device to operate one or both elements of the V.A.U.D.? Also, it seems it wouldn't be terribly difficult to add an RS-232 (?or USB?) controller to cycle the V.A.U.D. options via a user-defined fk key script or perhaps via the alt-display fk key itself launching an option script. Just throwing the idea out there, so you don't have to stand there holding a power button while the V.A.U.D. cycles in/out/closed/open.

Besides the 2001 soundtrack kicking in while the V.A.U.D. is cycling, I would 'humbly suggest' you include a rotating amber warning light. I seem to recall the movie doing this when the Pod was being deployed.

P.S. - Sorry, no new buzzwords for the 'Index' this post.

I selected AC voltage on this one because it will be used quite often and I might not have the air system pumped up when I want to use it.

I hadn't considered a shared motor on this TV contraption, but the double clutch single motor system was looked at for the large garage doors, and I believe it to be a viable solution - I'll never be opening them at the same time, anyway. For the TV system, it seems two motors is the easy way because the drive shafts will not be in close proximity to each other.

I never used a PC to control external things, but I would like to learn how to do that. Advice anyone? Standalone PLCs are relatively cheap, but if the PC is sitting there already, why not.

I still like the idea being part of the system to avoid having be build redundancy in the control circuit. It shouldn't do anything I don't command it to do, and if it does, I can immediately stop it. I'm afraid with a fully automatic system, I will push the button and walk away, only to turn around and see it crashing to the ground. I'm sure it will put a smile on my face everytime I actuate it so it won't be a problem standing there and enjoying watching it.

The rotating beacon would be great - especially to warn the innocent!

BTW, the INDEX now has the buzzwords. Keep them coming.

schwalby said:
Hey Shopnut, Wanted to post this link up for you.

http://www.otrattw.com/

I don't know what switches you are using but I think you may want to check this guy out. They are primarily auto / marine switches but since when does that limit a use when it comes to garages. The really cool thing about these switches though is he can make custom rockers for them.

The owners name is Jim so if you shoot him an email or give him a call let him know I sent you.

Those switches are sweet schwalby, thanks for the link. I really like the lighted icons - could come in handy during "dark ops"

. Might have to check into it deeper if I build a master control panel for the Asylum.

shopnut · Feb 16, 2012

THE TV BRACKET MOTOR…

Because the jack is pretty tall and uses a majority of the available height in the TV recess, there’s barely enough room for the drive motor below it. This meant a short coupling was a must, so I decided to modify a std 3/8” drive, 6-point, 3/4” socket to become a make-shift coupler. This will directly drive the lead-screw of the jack.

Here are a couple of shots with the motor positioned roughly WRT the TV bracket. In the original bed application, these motors lay flat and rely on the coupling to support the shaft end, while the other end is isolator-mounted. This lets it “float” a bit and I intend to mount it the same way.

Since all the motors came with decent MOLEX connectors, I decided to buy the mating half to make wiring and possible future replacement of the motors a bit easier. They were about a $1/connector. I bought plenty to wire the limit switches in a similar fashion.

All the motors are unboxed and awaiting a quick test. It turns out there is a variety of three different output RPMs on them so it should give me a little flexiblity to dial things in.

Next, I will work on the motor coupling for the roll-up door.

e-tek · Feb 16, 2012

**** - you are amazing!

Wingnut65 · Feb 16, 2012

What he said.

You're just having too much fun on this project. Keep it up!

shopnut · Feb 16, 2012

e-tek/Wingnut65 - Thanks. I need to do something to keep my mind off of this darn foot! I must say, this is doing a pretty good job of it.

shopnut · Feb 19, 2012

AN INEXPENSIVE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR PIN EXTRACTOR…

Since the boat-load of motors I just bought have decent Molex MLX connectors already on them, I decided to buy the mating halves to create my own wiring harness for the VAUD (powered TV system). I also understand they are used commonly on HVAC parts. The pins that insert in these connectors have little barbs built in to retain them in the connector body, and special tools are available for about $60 from Molex so service them. Well, I'm not going to pay that kind of money, so I did a little searching. I found Radio Shack sold something similar for about $7 (RS #274-223).

I had my doubts that their tool would work because of the difference in diameters of their connector pins compared to the Molex .084" pins, but decided to give it a try. I went to the store because online inventory said they had some in stock and of course the bin was empty when I got there.

(This is about the 4th time for that scenario at RS)

I don't like to leave the Shack empty-handed, so looked around figuring there was something in the store that could be used in place of that pin extractor. Finally, I spotted a replacement radio antenna will 5 telescoping sections, one of which I figured was bound to be the correct diameter (RS # 270-1401).

So I cut the end off the antenna to take it apart. What I found is the last two sections (smallest ones) where the perfect size to become the outer barb release tube and the inner extractor pin. I fould it better to flip the outer tube around so the rounded end inserted in the connector (see third picture).

I added a section of black hose to make it easier to drive it into the connector.

The red knob at the end of the smaller tube protects my hand as I push to extract the pin from the body. Here's a shot right after the pin was extracted. If you look closely, you can see the barbs on it.

So the trip to Radio Shack proved worthwhile after all. I spent a whopping $4 to make a very functional tool. Plus, I discovered the internal workings of a telescopic antenna - never knew there were copper slip shoes in there! I probably could have spent zippo if I looked around the house for an portable radio as a parts donor, though.

flybefree · Feb 20, 2012

Shopnut this TV cabinet is going to be AWESOME! I am already learning stuff...and thinking of ways I can use the same technique.

Shaun

shopnut · Feb 21, 2012

Thanks Shaun - I always hope that everyone can take away at least one idea from this thread and apply it to their unique situation.

Still crossing my fingers on the whole TV thing.

shopnut · Feb 21, 2012

THE TV ROLL-UP DOOR MOTOR…

Length didn’t matter when figuring out the door motor coupling so I just rigged it up with parts I had on hand. These include a 7mm deep 3/8" drive socket, a connection tube cut from an old motorcycle handlebar, and a copper spacer tube to match the OD of the motor output shaft. Set screws will bear down on the two flats. It doesn’t look pretty, but it will get the job done.

If you may recall, the drive shaft on the roll-up door is a 7mm hex and I’m planning to have a socket directly engage it. Once the door and TV bracket are up in place I will build some wood structure to support the lower end of the motor. The shaft end will simply float as needed, like the TV bracket motor. Since I'll not exactly sure where this motor will end up, I used 3/8" ratchet parts so I can insert extensions and U-joints if needed to place the motor where it won't interfere with the TV movement. If U-joints are used, I will need to fully support the motor.

All those motors tested fine, which is always a relief when buying used equipment via the mail. I also tested one of the limit switches as well and it diverted power as expected from one motor to another as the roller arm was actuated. The larger motor did create a fairly large arc at the contacts, so I will have to keep an eye on that. The coworker that wants some motors offered up solid state relays if I need them, so there may be some trading going on in the future. Relays will just complicate the circuit, however, and I would prefer to keep it simple.

Next will be wiring it all up, but I'll have to wait for the connectors to show up before tackling that one.

shopnut · Feb 24, 2012

YOU TEND TO LEAN ON STUFF WHEN YOU HAVE A BUSTED FOOT…

And sometimes you break it.

The latest (and worst) incident involved the hood on my Craftsman tractor (see Reply #745 for views of it). I tripped on something with my crutch, lost my balance a bit, and reached for whatever was nearby. Unfortunately it was the hood, and I ripped it clean off the tractor. :wtf:

The hood is mostly sheet metal, but the front grill is plastic and that’s where the hinges attach - not the greatest design. This tractor is over ten years old so I guess the plastic was getting brittle.

A replacement grill is over $100 so I decided to repair it with fiberglass. I’m no stranger to the stuff as I have done lots of custom cycle panels and even a made-from-scratch snowmobile hood in my younger years. I use to love working with the stuff so I thought I would give it a go again.

I like to put it on real wet so it is best to do the repairs in stages so the resin is somewhat contained. I started with the band across the front which reattached the main hinge mounts.

Then I did each side in different sessions so the resin wouldn't run all over the place.

And once again, the grill is ready for action. This job was relatively easy since I was looking only for strength and appearance didn’t matter because it was on the back side. The back view shows the steel hinges mounted in place.

With a tree covered lot, I’ve had my share of close-calls to damaging the grill in prior mowing sessions. So I decided to take some of the money I saved by not buying a new grill and put it towards this $35 bumper. Hopefully it will protect the whole front end.

WHILE I HAD THE FIBERGLASS MATERIALS OUT...

I also decided to patch up some motorcycle side covers for my Yamaha FJR1300. I always thought my FJR would look better with a monochrome black cherry paint scheme, so I’ve been slowly buying the body panels I need to replace the silver ones on the bike as I find cheap ones on fee-bay. I’m not gutsy enough to paint the originals that came with the bike, in case it looked bad and I wanted to revert back. Since I’m finding ones from wrecked bikes, some are pretty beat up and sometimes cracked.

Anyway, here’s the bike showing the original silver side panels. Hard cases were popped off for clarity.

And here are first set of repaired side panels painted in dark red awaiting their final coat of paint.

Amazzen · Feb 24, 2012

When you have a pair of good hands to go with a busy mind, things get done!

I too, love your build and innovations.

I've enjoyed tinkering with some high tech stuff and planned on controlling my linear actuators and gadgets in my Batmobile through a PC (there is an auto PC installed that works great), but haven't gotten around to it. I know its not a difficult thing to do, just need the time to do the proper research (and retrofit).

As far as the motor set ups you're working on go, I'm anxiously watching so I can put a few of those projects in my hopper. Thanks so much for the tutorial and keep up the fabulous work!

tinbender 66 · Feb 24, 2012

I can't wait to see that TV masterpiece in action.

Where did you find that bumper for your lawn mover? I have about an eight year old Craftsman LT2000 and I'd like to get one of those. I haven't hit anything yet but there are a lot of possibilities.

Red Leader · Feb 24, 2012

shopnut said:
YOU TEND TO LEAN ON STUFF WHEN YOU HAVE A BUSTED FOOT…

And sometimes you break it.

The latest (and worst) incident involved the hood on my Craftsman tractor (see Reply #745 for views of it). I tripped on something with my crutch, lost my balance a bit, and reached for whatever was nearby. Unfortunately it was the hood, and I ripped it clean off the tractor. The hood is mostly sheet metal...

Umm, haha...I wish I had that kind of superhuman strength...

"Yeah, I was taking a stroll on the town and had some time to kill. I leaned up against a building and the building just fell over..."

Ripped the sheet metal right off? How does someone even do that?

When the 'Shopnut Ultimate Workout' dvd comes out, I'm reserving a few copies

Omphaloskeptic · Feb 24, 2012

Shopnut, it sounds to me like you and 'Gravity' :scared:

don't get along; you may have to resort to obtaining an actual POD from '2001 - A Space Odyssey' to use whenever you're puttering around the Asylum! Wouldn't that be cool, zipping around the shop, tucked away safely in the padded cocoon of the POD, reclining comfortably in your Recaro lounger and using the servo-driven manipulators to do all your work, keeping you safe and secure from that nasty 'Gravity'! :scared:

I really enjoy reading about your escapades and your talent for squeezing a nickel till the buffalo farts when it comes to innovative tool/project solutions. Please keep us posted on all your slick tricks and inventions; great documentation and highly educational to us subscribers! :bowdown:

Wingnut65 · Feb 24, 2012

Sorry to hear about your unanticipated resin work.

Doesn't it just seem sometimes that it is two steps forward and three back?

shopnut · Feb 24, 2012

Amazzen said:
When you have a pair of good hands to go with a busy mind, things get done!

I too, love your build and innovations.

I've enjoyed tinkering with some high tech stuff and planned on controlling my linear actuators and gadgets in my Batmobile through a PC (there is an auto PC installed that works great), but haven't gotten around to it. I know its not a difficult thing to do, just need the time to do the proper research (and retrofit).

As far as the motor set ups you're working on go, I'm anxiously watching so I can put a few of those projects in my hopper. Thanks so much for the tutorial and keep up the fabulous work!

I almost have a pair of good feet back to go along with that other stuff.

Then there will be no stopping me!

Is a Batmobile without gadgets really a Batmobile? :dunno:

You need to get working on it! What a fun project that would be - not sure if it could get much better than that. And please share it with us on your build thread (or start a Batmobile specific one). If you need any help, just ask. There are plenty here willing to lend a cyber-hand.

Thanks for the kind words.

tinbender 66 said:
I can't wait to see that TV masterpiece in action.

Where did you find that bumper for your lawn mover? I have about an eight year old Craftsman LT2000 and I'd like to get one of those. I haven't hit anything yet but there are a lot of possibilities.

The TV in action might be worthy of a youtube video - never tried that yet. I could film the power windows and a few other things while I'm at it.

For more information on the bumper try this link: Sears #24611. (If that doesn't work, go to the Sears.com website and search on p/n 24611. Select the bumper from that page.) Once you get to the product page, you can download a PDF of the installation manual which shows a bunch of pictures. They say it works for all 917. and 247. model tractors and mention the LT's and GT's. Mine came from ebay because the price was a little cheaper even being delivered to the house. They have some other ones - search Sears for "tractor bumper". Good luck.

shopnut · Feb 24, 2012

Red Leader - Nope, that "S" on my chest simply stands for Shopnut.

Sorry, I really didn't explain things very well. The hood was swung forward on the tractor like shown below because I was working on it. I reached over to re-gain my balance, grabbing the top, and the plastic tabs holding the hinges (all of them) snapped. It offered just enough resistance to keep me from falling, but I ended up standing there holding a hood up in my hand. I few choice words were spoken, IIRC.

Omphaloskepic - It's been so long since I watched that show, I don't even remember the POD. Sounds cool though - Do you think it would climb a ladder?

Thanks for your comments. I don't like parting with my money any more than the rest of you out there. I spend quite a bit of time (sometimes too much) searching for good deals - it allows me to buy more fun/useful stuff for that next project!

Glad to have you along for the ride and keep the ideas coming (no matter how crazy they might be

)

Wingnut65 - When looking back at all the stuff I got accomplished in this "downtime", I guess I can't really count the grill repair job - my situation actually caused it. I'm hoping the upcoming steps are all forward for a while!

A QUICK UPDATE ON THE FRACTURED HEEL...

I had a doctor visit yesterday (the last for a while now) and he said it was a textbook recovery. The bone looked great and he said that plate and screws in there really weren't doing anything anymore. He gave his blessing to start putting full weight on the heel again and told me to work it as hard as I can take it, pain-wise. I'm not sure if he completely understood my tolerance level for pain, however.

The best part (I think) is he didn't recommend physical therapy. He was happy with my current range of motion and said with as active as I am, the rest will work itself out through daily activities. I was really surprised by all this and was expecting to be signed up for weekly sessions at the affiliated PT office right next door.

There is a high level of pain trying to work the kinks out, but life is really starting to get back to normal. It's hard to believe it been about 4 months since the accident - they actually flew by.

Thanks to all you fine GJ folks for hanging out will me during this slow time in the Asylum build - it has meant a lot to me.

flybefree · Feb 25, 2012

I told you it would heal up great...you can't keep a shopnut down!

shopnut · Feb 25, 2012

flybefree said:
I told you it would heal up great...you can't keep a shopnut down!

Now I just need to work at not putting myself "down" again!

Wingnut65 · Feb 25, 2012

Great to hear you are released back to active duty. Go Forth and Build!

Take it cautiously! We don't want you to go down again, but not sure if we're ready to have you going back up again so soon, either. :lol:

Red Leader · Feb 25, 2012

Whoohoo!

tinbender 66 · Feb 25, 2012

Congrats on the healing of the heel!! I have rather enjoyed your down time activities. Tame that loft!!!!

nkachur · Feb 25, 2012

Congrats on the clean bill of health. Best of luck on the last stage of your recovery from this set back.

I am loving the automation phase of your build... I don't think my build will get this kind of makeover. Maybe my final shop will get some.

Omphaloskeptic · Feb 25, 2012

Shopnut, glad to hear you're cleared for takeoff; Godspeed and watch out for that nasty 'GRAVITY'! Now that you are on the 'road to recovery', is there a Spring MC trip planned for Nazareth, Pa. (C.F. Martin & Co.)?

In regards to the POD of 2001....

"Open the POD bay door, HAL!"

Once you have the laptop controlled voice-activation in place, the phrase will be -

"Open the VAUD bay door, HAL." (which is why I dreamed up the acronym VAUD; rhymes with POD to paraphrase that movie quote.) Aren't I the clever devil? :evil:

shopnut · Feb 26, 2012

Wingnut65 - "Active Duty" - that's a good way to look at it.

I think I already overdid it yesterday, but the pain is in my back today not my foot!

Red Leader - My thoughts EXACTLY.

tinbender 66 - Thanks. The lighter activities in the recent months have been quite enjoyable, from the viewpoint of the one doing it too. I needed something to keep my mind occupied.

I've got a tough decision coming up concerning that loft. I'm not sure if I'm physically up to it yet, but if I wait too long, we will be into our rainy season and that won't be the best time to do it. So the next couple of weeks of strength building will decide it. I do have a week of carryover vacation from last year that is ear-marked for the loft job, but I need to use it before the end of March. If the loft project is postponed, I will just take every Friday off to make some long weekends through March and just putter on the small stuff (i.e. TV install, island workbench, Asylum sign install, etc.). My many years of service has finally earned me 5 weeks of paid vacation this year, so taking off whenever the timing is right for building the loft still shouldn't be a problem. I fear that time might be next fall, however.

nkachur - Thanks for the warm wishes.

Building the little gizmos is right up my alley and I've always loved doing it. It was inevitable that the Asylum would get a few. I'm sure there are more in it's future too.

I just picked up some parts for the overhead doors power-assist system and you might be interested in it since your pull chain operator looks very similar to mine. I will try to get a write-up on it soon to explain what I have in mind.

Glad to see you got your place all sealed in - that must have felt like a great accomplishment for you (because it was! :thumbup:

)

Omphaloskeptic - Thanks for your continued support (and creativity!).

We were just talking about future (fun) travel plans yesterday, because our neighbors just got back from a cruise (the ship kind) and was telling us all about it. Mrs. Shopnut has a bunch of business travel in March (one to China) so we decided no fun travel that month. She mentioned a nice long bike ride in April once things slowed down at work and that might be better timing for me because I think I'm at least two weeks away from even throwing a leg over a bike at this point in time. The good news is the vibration from the riding mower didn't bother the foot at all yesterday. Who knows where the open road may lead us - maybe PA?

I really need to shell out a few bucks for that 2001 DVD as much as you guys reference it. I watched the clip and it looks like it might be a good idea to cover my mouth when I speak in the Asylum - you never know who might be listening (or should I say watching

)!

Clever? That doesn't begin to cover it.

Omphaloskeptic · Feb 27, 2012

Well, since you have all that vacation time coming and to enable a trauma-free trip to Pa., I'd say you hook Mrs. Shopnut's bike up to a sidecar and make the trip as her passenger! lol Just think, you could sit back and relax with a cold one, have the leg flung up on the dash of the 'P.O.D.' (what else would you name the sidecar?), and enjoy the scenery. The P.O.D. might be a little cramped on the return trip; you would undoubtedly be sharing it with the driver's new instrument. Can't take a trip without buying a souvenir or two!

P.O.D. = 'Party On Dude', 'Patient On Drugs', 'Property Of Driver', 'Passenger Outboard Device', or ...? :dunno:

P.S. - Don't rush aLoft, let the heal heal! You wouldn't want to cause another W.E.E.P.s event, would you?

shopnut · Feb 29, 2012

Omphaloskeptic said:
Well, since you have all that vacation time coming and to enable a trauma-free trip to Pa., I'd say you hook Mrs. Shopnut's bike up to a sidecar and make the trip as her passenger! lol Just think, you could sit back and relax with a cold one, have the leg flung up on the dash of the 'P.O.D.' (what else would you name the sidecar?), and enjoy the scenery. The P.O.D. might be a little cramped on the return trip; you would undoubtedly be sharing it with the driver's new instrument. Can't take a trip without buying a souvenir or two!

P.O.D. = 'Party On Dude', 'Patient On Drugs', 'Property Of Driver', 'Passenger Outboard Device', or ...?

P.S. - Don't rush aLoft, let the heal heal! You wouldn't want to cause another W.E.E.P.s event, would you?

I think this is typical for most cyclists, but Mrs. Shopnut and I don't enjoy riding on the back of each others bike. Those occasions have been limited to breakdowns and tagging along to pick up a new bike. I think the same dislike would hold true for sitting in a sidecar, although the relaxing part sounds kind of nice.

Not long after the ladder accident happened, I considered outfitting one of my bikes temporarily with a sidecar or maybe buying one of those 3-wheeled Can-Am Spyders to get my mobility back. The realization was it just wasn't worth the hassle for the short period of time I would need it. Plus I was amazed at how pricy those sidecars really are ($7-8K)! The Mrs. has considered a sidecar on one of her bikes for many years, but that was primarily so she could take the dogs with her for a ride. That may still happen someday and her old BMW R1200C might look okay with one on it.

If talking sidecars - "P.O.D. = Passenger Outboard Device" would definitely be my pick.

shopnut · Feb 29, 2012

WHAT GOOD ARE POWERED DOORS AND BRACKETS WITHOUT A TV…

I looked around quite a bit and finally decided on a Sceptre X425BV-FHD high-def LCD TV. It had the required features I was looking for like 1080p resolution, VGA (PC) input, and a USB port. The 42" size is the largest I will be able to stuff in that TV cabinet recess, but I think it will be sufficient to see from across the shop. I probably could have looked around a bit longer, but at $360, I figured I wasn't going to find a much better deal for all the features I wanted.

VGA port to hook up a PC as input - Of course, if your computer has HDMI output, you don't need this. Unfortunately my old shop computer doesn't so I will have to route a VGA and audio cord from the PC to the TV. One nice feature I discovered while playing with it is the TV's ability to freeze whatever is on the screen. I foresee this being handy for freezing an exploded view of something I'm tinkering with on the big screen while jumping back to the laptop to do something else.

I found a cheap ($9) 25' cable on Amazon that has both VGA and a 1/8" stereo plug built into the same cable. I wanted this cable extra long because quite a bit will be needed up by the TV, allowing slack for movement between stored and extended positions. I also wanted about 10'-15' extra down at the PC end so I can move it around as needed in the future.

USB port - The other nice feature is a USB port for viewing pictures or playing music directly from a jump drive. Having this will allow me to skip turning on the PC if I choose not to that weekend. So far it's been able to read up to 32GB drive, despite the manual saying 2GB is the limit

. Until I get some kind of internet connection at the Asylum (I really like Pandora for streaming music), I'll just play music from my recorded collection of CDs and LPs. Many DVD players have a USB port as well.

Here are some shots with the laptop sending a video signal to TV. Since the laptop is a widescreen like the TV, the displayed image on the big screen matches its aspect ratio perfectly so display space is fully utilized without distorting the image. I foresee manuals and illustrated parts lists being the primary use in this mode, but who knows what else I might do with it once it’s there.

It's about time to cut the hole in the wall for this thing.

Red Leader · Feb 29, 2012

Maybe instead of using a ladder to get up to cut out that hole you can just use your swinging arm hoist

shopnut · Mar 5, 2012

Red Leader said:
Maybe instead of using a ladder to get up to cut out that hole you can just use your swinging arm hoist

With a saw in hand, just strap me in the yellow slings and hoist me up there!

Thanks - your comment reminded me to check if hoisting the TV up with my jib crane is even feasible. Knowing the TV bracket will extend out of the hole about 12”, it should just work just fine. And it will be a little safer than simply muscling it up there. TV will go in the yellow straps and I can get it lined up perfectly with the engine leveler.

I got that tractor hood mounted back on after the fiberglass repair (no superhuman strength required to put it on, btw

).

machine_punk · Mar 5, 2012

It's nice to see you continuing to work on projects, while you finish healing. Looking forward to seeing the TV installed.

M_P

shopnut · Mar 5, 2012

machine_punk said:
It's nice to see you continuing to work on projects, while you finish healing. Looking forward to seeing the TV installed.

M_P

Yeah, it was great to be back at it again. I actually got to spend a few days in a row at the Asylum lately. Unfortunately, most of the time was spent playing catch up on all the maintenance type stuff that goes with property ownership. I'm digging myself out of the hole, however, and will be back at the fun stuff soon.

After each hard day out there, I couldn't hardly walk for the first 30 minutes or so the next morning before things started to loosen up in that foot. Hopefully that gets better as the weeks go on.

Nice of you to stop by M_P.

shopnut · Mar 5, 2012

SINCE I’M ON THE LAWN TRACTOR SUBJECT…

This is a follow-up for tinbender66 and anyone else interested in that Craftsman tractor bumper.

The kit came with a wide array of fasteners including the four I needed. I mounted it as far forward and down as I could and the hood still touches it when it is open, but just barely. This thing is probably versatile enough to fit a variety of tractors, so if your frame width is less than 13-1/8”, it should adapt fine. As a side note - it looks like I better get a little paint on that muffler before it rusts away to nothing.

While I had the tractor in the shop, it got fitted with a 1-7/8” ball hitch to match the rest of my implements. The hitch platform was pretty wimpy, so I added a 3/8” thick bracket found in my scrap bin to stiffen it up.

Wingnut65 · Mar 5, 2012

You just keep these little projects up and soon all that is left will be, well the rest of the place, the loft and other cool stuff that needs to be engineered.

BTW, put a couple clear rubber door stoppers on the bumber to keep the hood from getting more battle scars.

Glad to hear you are allowed visitations to the Asylum and that it is all on the ground level. :thumbup:

shopnut · Mar 5, 2012

Wingnut65 said:
You just keep these little projects up and soon all that is left will be, well the rest of the place, the loft and other cool stuff that needs to be engineered.

BTW, put a couple clear rubber door stoppers on the bumber to keep the hood from getting more battle scars.

Glad to hear you are allowed visitations to the Asylum and that it is all on the ground level.

Taking a look around at the place, there is probably about a year's worth of "small stuff" to do at the Asylum if I don't feel up to the big stuff. And that doesn't count the stuff on the vehicles.

I don't have to be quiet about this next statement because Mrs. Shopnut was my assistant, but I was up on a ladder doing four different projects yesterday at the house. And two of them were on the roof! I'm still catching up on everything that was put off for 4 months. When I was out at the shop alone, I promised her I would call before I did any work at heights (probably so she could talk me out of it!).

Thanks, I will take that advice on the rubber stoppers, not only to protect the grill, but the paint on the bumper as well. I'm sure I don't have to tell you how quickly things start rusting around here if rubbed down to bare metal :sad:

Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

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