82_454_shorty
Well-known member
My condolences. I lost my shop dog last fall. Tough.
Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Thanks to all of you for the kind thoughts and comments. It's extremely sad when they pass. We always feel like our efforts provided them with a very happy life, but the amazing thing is, they always return that happiness tenfold without even trying. We totally agree with Will Roger’s comment and also hope that the sentiment in the Rainbow Bridge poem comes true - what a wonderful reunion that would be with all our old friends over the years!
It wasn’t the first time we had to do this and it won’t be the last. But it’s ALWAYS hard no matter how many times you go through it. For those that have made that tough decision, I feel for you. For those needing to make the decision soon, please be thinking of the pet instead of your own feelings when the time comes. It will be easier on both of you.
We had a trip planned to Illinois long before any of this dog stuff started, but the trip forced the issue with putting Zoe down. We didn’t think she would make it through to our return and didn’t want to risk putting that responsibility on dog-sitter. The trip was actually good for Mrs. Shopnut to get away for a while and see her family and many old high school/college friends during an informal class reunion.
The vacation was going pretty good until the dog-sitter called to tell us that Pekoe had stopped eating again. This normally would not have worried us too much, but this symptom is what clued us in to his kidney problem in the first place. It turned out he was just missing us (and Zoe) and now he seems to be back to normal with our return. I have a sneaking suspicion he is going to get spoiled a little bit now that we are back in town (BIG understatement!).
Okay, it’s time to get back to this loft. There’s a lot more to do and the weather is starting to cool down to below 90F now
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It wasn’t the first time we had to do this and it won’t be the last. But it’s ALWAYS hard no matter how many times you go through it. For those that have made that tough decision, I feel for you. For those needing to make the decision soon, please be thinking of the pet instead of your own feelings when the time comes. It will be easier on both of you.
We had a trip planned to Illinois long before any of this dog stuff started, but the trip forced the issue with putting Zoe down. We didn’t think she would make it through to our return and didn’t want to risk putting that responsibility on dog-sitter. The trip was actually good for Mrs. Shopnut to get away for a while and see her family and many old high school/college friends during an informal class reunion.
The vacation was going pretty good until the dog-sitter called to tell us that Pekoe had stopped eating again. This normally would not have worried us too much, but this symptom is what clued us in to his kidney problem in the first place. It turned out he was just missing us (and Zoe) and now he seems to be back to normal with our return. I have a sneaking suspicion he is going to get spoiled a little bit now that we are back in town (BIG understatement!).
Okay, it’s time to get back to this loft. There’s a lot more to do and the weather is starting to cool down to below 90F now
.IGO2XS
Well-known member
So sorry about your loss. As others have said these pets are part of your family. A friend of mine lost his cat last week and at 50 years old it was his first loss.......I mean his grandparents, parents, and siblings are still alive.....lucky guy. He is just devastated. No offense but a cat is not man's best friend.
abstamaria
Well-known member
I am sorry to hear about Zoe, Shopnut. They have such short lives, and they devote it all to us.
My condolences. Zoe will want you to care for another one.
Andres
My condolences. Zoe will want you to care for another one.
Andres
Foxxtrot
Well-known member
As others have said, I am sorry to hear of your loss, Shopnut. We lost our faithful Sheppard, Princess, a little over a year ago, and we still miss her deeply. I know my buddy Weiser is getting up in age also....I'm sure I won't take that loss easy either. As you said, you did the best thing for her by being there until the end.
IGO2XS - 50 years and still has his grandparents?!? Good genes (and health) in that family I guess. I didn’t even get to meet my one grandfather - he passed away soon after I was born. He was somewhat of an inventor with some patents so I’m sure we would have gotten along perfectly.
abstamaria - Pekoe, the survivor, is soaking up all the attention right now and loving every minute of it. We usually try to have two dogs so they keep each other company while we are away at work. I’m not sure what they might call it over there in Manila, but we tend to rescue the abandoned/unwanted pets from the Humane Society. We will probably be visiting them soon to get Pekoe a little buddy.
Foxxtrot - Sorry to hear about Princess - Sheppards are such beautiful and devoted dogs. Enjoy the time you have left with Weiser, it goes by quickly.
After Zoe took her last breath, the Vet thanked us for not trying to prolong her life (and discomfort). That actually made me feel a lot better because I’m sure he sees it all. The timing was right because she was still enjoying her walks up until the last day.
abstamaria - Pekoe, the survivor, is soaking up all the attention right now and loving every minute of it. We usually try to have two dogs so they keep each other company while we are away at work. I’m not sure what they might call it over there in Manila, but we tend to rescue the abandoned/unwanted pets from the Humane Society. We will probably be visiting them soon to get Pekoe a little buddy.
Foxxtrot - Sorry to hear about Princess - Sheppards are such beautiful and devoted dogs. Enjoy the time you have left with Weiser, it goes by quickly.
After Zoe took her last breath, the Vet thanked us for not trying to prolong her life (and discomfort). That actually made me feel a lot better because I’m sure he sees it all. The timing was right because she was still enjoying her walks up until the last day.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Dear friends kept their dog alive for a year through daily fluid injections. When I asked them why, they said they couldn't bear to let her go. When Possum (our Bichon) went into renal failure we were given that same option but chose mercy and let her go after learning how poor her quality of life would be. Our vet thanked us as well and after we shared her last moments, the tech took her away. A few days later we received a plaster cast of her paw with her name written above it, and the date below.
We lasted three weeks before going to the Humane Society and adopting Eleanor, or as she prefers, Miss Ellie. They wanted a referral so we had them call our vet's office. The receptionist told them that when she died she wanted to come back as our dog. I guess that was good enough. Sounds like you'll get the same referral.
We lasted three weeks before going to the Humane Society and adopting Eleanor, or as she prefers, Miss Ellie. They wanted a referral so we had them call our vet's office. The receptionist told them that when she died she wanted to come back as our dog. I guess that was good enough. Sounds like you'll get the same referral.
Postsedan
Well-known member
Zoe had a great life.....I lost my Black Lab "Jax" in 2011. It`s never easy, as we never forget them.
Dan
Dan
Bob Heine - Heck, when I die, I want to come back as one of Mrs. Shopnut’s dogs so I’ll get treated better than I do now! 
Our Pekoe is responding well to the treatment for his failing kidneys, but I think it was caught really early. His BUN number had elevated to over 90. They say a dog will feel “normal” if it is kept below 50. He is now down in the 30’s and we will probably be able to stop the IV treatments in a week or two. I’m glad he’s doing so well because it would have killed Mrs. Shopnut to lose them both within a month. He seems so healthy right now, but we know his kidneys can really only go downhill from here so we are enjoying the time we have left with him.
The vet sent us a card with an ink paw print of Zoe in it. It’s been over 10 years since the last dog passed and I don’t remember getting anything last time. Maybe next time they will step up to a plaster cast.
Postsedan - Come to think of it, Zoe did have a good life. Plenty to eat and drink. A yard and pool to play in. And she always got to go on big trips with us so she pee’d and poohed in over 20 different States across the east coast and midwest. I bet not many dogs can make that claim!
Sorry to hear about your buddy Jax. Pekoe is part black lab and he is the sweetest dog we have ever had.
Our Pekoe is responding well to the treatment for his failing kidneys, but I think it was caught really early. His BUN number had elevated to over 90. They say a dog will feel “normal” if it is kept below 50. He is now down in the 30’s and we will probably be able to stop the IV treatments in a week or two. I’m glad he’s doing so well because it would have killed Mrs. Shopnut to lose them both within a month. He seems so healthy right now, but we know his kidneys can really only go downhill from here so we are enjoying the time we have left with him.
The vet sent us a card with an ink paw print of Zoe in it. It’s been over 10 years since the last dog passed and I don’t remember getting anything last time. Maybe next time they will step up to a plaster cast.
Postsedan - Come to think of it, Zoe did have a good life. Plenty to eat and drink. A yard and pool to play in. And she always got to go on big trips with us so she pee’d and poohed in over 20 different States across the east coast and midwest. I bet not many dogs can make that claim!
Sorry to hear about your buddy Jax. Pekoe is part black lab and he is the sweetest dog we have ever had.
BACK TO THAT LOFT PROJECT…
I was on a mission to get the plywood floor installed before something like this happened.
The floor joists were never tied down to the framing where they pass over the doors so I added some small corner brackets to keep them from shifting around.
Some 2x6 caps were added to fully contain the last bits of insulation tucked in there.
To go along with the 5 full sheets of plywood already up there, I cut the sixth sheet in half so the second course could be staggered from the first. The old Black Widow workbench came in handy again. I also got to use my new Porter Cable circular saw for the first time after it sat in a box for a year. I bought it for this job last year right before my foot accident and I was hoping there wasn't a problem with it because it was too late to return it.
I used the man-lift to get these smaller pieces up to their final destination. Two hangers on the front of the basket hooked the bottom of the sheets.
Next is fastening down the decking.
I was on a mission to get the plywood floor installed before something like this happened
. The floor joists were never tied down to the framing where they pass over the doors so I added some small corner brackets to keep them from shifting around.
Some 2x6 caps were added to fully contain the last bits of insulation tucked in there.
To go along with the 5 full sheets of plywood already up there, I cut the sixth sheet in half so the second course could be staggered from the first. The old Black Widow workbench came in handy again. I also got to use my new Porter Cable circular saw for the first time after it sat in a box for a year. I bought it for this job last year right before my foot accident and I was hoping there wasn't a problem with it because it was too late to return it.
I used the man-lift to get these smaller pieces up to their final destination. Two hangers on the front of the basket hooked the bottom of the sheets.
Next is fastening down the decking.
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Wingnut65
Well-known member
Good thinking on fastening down the rafters to the wall since the attic floor is also the exterior ceiling of the porch. If its not too late, it wouldn't be a bad idea to throw a strap over the top of a couple rafters and down the face of the wall over the door.
BTW, I've added flooring to my attic only after I got a jagged attic access opening like the the first picture. I've got experience!
BTW, I've added flooring to my attic only after I got a jagged attic access opening like the the first picture. I've got experience!
Good idea with the straps Wingnut65 - can't forget about our little hurricane force winds around here. I'm headed to Lowe's in a couple days to stock up on some other materials, so I will wander over to the Simpson StrongTie aisle and see what they have. Thanks.
And sorry to hear about your big "breakthrough"
And sorry to hear about your big "breakthrough"
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Shopnut, another nice thing about 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' having operable windows is that during those "hurricane force winds", the windows can be opened and will act as a pressure-relief valve for the entire roof structure. (wink-wink-nudge-nudge-heh-heh) It's really something to see Bernoulli's Principle at work on a roof structure during a hurricane. Hurry up and get that decking done so you can work towards the completion of 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.'!
Wingnut65
Well-known member
You said the magic words. Simpson StrongTie - What holds Florida together!
They do the job to keep Bernoulli's Principle out of the aftermath pictures.And sorry to hear about your big "breakthrough"
But now I have a To-Do List and one brake drum off! I'm starting my shopping list that needs to go to the Finance Minister for funding.
Omphaloskeptic - You really are working hard at expanding my work list (and it is currently 3 pages right now without the C.U.P.O.L.A. project!).
I need to get your creative mind (and anyone else's) first working on two things to finish this loft:
1) A folding or collapsible handrail for the cantilevered platform to guard me against that nasty gravity thing that breaks bones. I want one that temporarily drops out of the way when I’m hoisting something up there.
2) An easy-to-build, cheap, yet esthetically pleasing door set to hide all my junk up there. It will be located back 3’ at the wall above the doors.
I have some ideas for both but I’m sure others will come up with something unique I haven't thought of.
Wingnut65 - We moved to FL right before Hurricane Andrew wiped out Homestead. Soon after, we were having our city house built and I remember the contractor complaining about all the new rules and regs concerning roof straps. I’m sure they got even stricter since our place was built, but it’s still nice to know something is up there holding it on.
I need to get your creative mind (and anyone else's) first working on two things to finish this loft:
1) A folding or collapsible handrail for the cantilevered platform to guard me against that nasty gravity thing that breaks bones. I want one that temporarily drops out of the way when I’m hoisting something up there.
2) An easy-to-build, cheap, yet esthetically pleasing door set to hide all my junk up there. It will be located back 3’ at the wall above the doors.
I have some ideas for both but I’m sure others will come up with something unique I haven't thought of.
Wingnut65 - We moved to FL right before Hurricane Andrew wiped out Homestead. Soon after, we were having our city house built and I remember the contractor complaining about all the new rules and regs concerning roof straps. I’m sure they got even stricter since our place was built, but it’s still nice to know something is up there holding it on.
THE FLOORING IS COMPLETE INSIDE THE LOFT…
But there is still a little more to do on the cantilevered portion. I have some special anchoring system going in for the Library Ladder track so that plywood will go on later when that is finished.
With the plywood curled from sitting so long, I found it difficult to join the tongue and groove joints. It was one of those deals where I pushed down on one end to engage it and the opposite end popped up 2”. Then I go to the other end to get it started, and the first side pops apart. Frustrating, but after this comedy act was over, I finally got it.
Once engaged the full length, a tie-down ratchet strap helped pull them tightly together. This only worked because I had access to both edges to hook onto. It took quite a bit of force to pull the joints together and I was tempted to lube the joints with something (soap???) to make them engage easier. I felt I had my ratchet strap stretched to the point of failure at times.
And here are the results of getting the first two rows of plywood in.
I’m creating a wire-way to run up the backside of the center column and the 2x2’s are place holders for the full length versions so I wouldn't damage the Romex wires.
Another little job crossed off the list is the addition of lag screws to the leading edge 2x6. It will be supporting the Library Ladder rail so I wanted it as secure as possible. I counterbored them so they wouldn’t interfere with whatever cladding I use to finish that surface later on.
Next is framing in for the final loft lights and finishing the ceiling above the new floor. I have just enough vinyl soffit material to finish the loft ceiling and remaining section inside the main bay. In the low headroom loft area, I think it might be wise to have a ceiling material that is somewhat “forgiving” as I will tend to bump it occasionally. I already have some nasty lumps from those low hanging temporary lights - they need to go!
But there is still a little more to do on the cantilevered portion. I have some special anchoring system going in for the Library Ladder track so that plywood will go on later when that is finished.
With the plywood curled from sitting so long, I found it difficult to join the tongue and groove joints. It was one of those deals where I pushed down on one end to engage it and the opposite end popped up 2”. Then I go to the other end to get it started, and the first side pops apart. Frustrating, but after this comedy act was over, I finally got it.
Once engaged the full length, a tie-down ratchet strap helped pull them tightly together. This only worked because I had access to both edges to hook onto. It took quite a bit of force to pull the joints together and I was tempted to lube the joints with something (soap???) to make them engage easier. I felt I had my ratchet strap stretched to the point of failure at times.
And here are the results of getting the first two rows of plywood in.
I’m creating a wire-way to run up the backside of the center column and the 2x2’s are place holders for the full length versions so I wouldn't damage the Romex wires.
Another little job crossed off the list is the addition of lag screws to the leading edge 2x6. It will be supporting the Library Ladder rail so I wanted it as secure as possible. I counterbored them so they wouldn’t interfere with whatever cladding I use to finish that surface later on.
Next is framing in for the final loft lights and finishing the ceiling above the new floor. I have just enough vinyl soffit material to finish the loft ceiling and remaining section inside the main bay. In the low headroom loft area, I think it might be wise to have a ceiling material that is somewhat “forgiving” as I will tend to bump it occasionally. I already have some nasty lumps from those low hanging temporary lights - they need to go!
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Wingnut65
Well-known member
For the removable handrails, frame out squares on the inside of the face 2x for pipes to slip in and out. Then make the railing with pipe verticals that are long enough to slide into the pockets. So, when you get the elevator to the top, lift the railing out of the way and set it to the side. I also just thought of sliding pipes horizontally to make an opening...
Now the doors may be another issue. Hard to see the space available and with the rafter at the angle, the door will need to either hinge sideways, bi-fold or more, or fold up, or even bi-fold up.
I was down there for Andrew and the '94 building code was a wake-up call for all the ways they should have been building all the years. I know there were reports of drive-by roof inspections where the inspector's car door was never opened. Now the 2010 Florida Building Code has many more strict requirements we need to comply with. It is all in the effort to save lives and lessen property damage.
Now the doors may be another issue. Hard to see the space available and with the rafter at the angle, the door will need to either hinge sideways, bi-fold or more, or fold up, or even bi-fold up.
I was down there for Andrew and the '94 building code was a wake-up call for all the ways they should have been building all the years. I know there were reports of drive-by roof inspections where the inspector's car door was never opened. Now the 2010 Florida Building Code has many more strict requirements we need to comply with. It is all in the effort to save lives and lessen property damage.
HOTFR8
Banned
Looking like a very practical storage area now.
akdiesel
Well-known member
Can't wait to see the cupola. I want to put one on the shop for a concealed vent system but other projects take priority.
Are you building the library ladder or is a pre made one? I've got one in the works also for trolley system I am including with it also.
As for the hand rail, I am going with some Unistrut ( the shop seams to be sprouting strut all over) that will be used to lift items to the loft as lifting platform and then fold up to block off the edge. I have also seen it used as a sliding guard as well.
Are you building the library ladder or is a pre made one? I've got one in the works also for trolley system I am including with it also.
As for the hand rail, I am going with some Unistrut ( the shop seams to be sprouting strut all over) that will be used to lift items to the loft as lifting platform and then fold up to block off the edge. I have also seen it used as a sliding guard as well.
Wingnut65 - They sell these metal brackets to go along with your idea, possibly saving me a little framing work. I have used the welded ones before and they are okay.
There are a variety of handrail fittings available to make the handrail itself easy to put together:
Thanks for offering up the sliding horizontal idea. I could see a sliding trombone style handrail working quite nicely up there. I’m going to shy away a bit from a railing that completely detaches for fear of dropping it off the ledge - there might be a few expensive things down there to damage (someday).
Regarding the doors… Rafter pitch is 4/12 and cross bracing around the main column is about 42” high, but might grow if I cut out the gusset some. Rectangular doors might be the easiest to build and your bi-fold idea would let me maximize the opening size while still allowing them to swing without hitting the railing. Triangular doors are always a pain, but I still think there is merit in this idea from earlier in Reply #1225:
Of course, many things are easy to sketch, but prove to be difficult or impossible to build and make work properly.
HOTFR8 - Thanks. It’s killing me to know there is a usable storage platform up there that still can’t be filled until I get the rest of the details finished (walls, ceiling, lighting). Soon.
akdiesel - Don’t get too excited about the C.U.P.O.L.A. yet - its down really far on “the list”. Unfortunately, we all have priorities.
The Library Ladder project was kicked off over two years ago with this post - Reply #298 and the Index will point you to other related replies on the subject. I salvaged the overhead track system from our old dairy barn and repurposed it into a full perimeter ladder track and trolley. The simple extension ladder from the scaffold will hang on it. Completion of this loft is all that stands in the way of finishing it and I must say I’m really sick of tripping over the rail sections that have been sitting on the floor for about a year now.
I need to research what Unistrut parts are available to help me with this. The lifting platform concept is intriguing. Maybe the platform could latch in flush with the loft floor once up there and allow easy offloading of bulky items (picture a car hood that needs to bypass that center column). I don’t need these operations to be quick, but they must be safe. The platform cannot be fairly light since the hoist track wasn’t designed for a heavy load. I envision detachable cables or chains lifting it like a drawbridge once latched in allowing it to swing up as you mention. Thanks for tossing the idea out there! A dedicated lifting platform, or at the very least, a lifting net like they use to load ships would certainly save time in strapping up things being lifted.
BTW, do you have a thread started on your place? I remember the snowmobile lift you built and would like to see any other creations you have come up with.
There are a variety of handrail fittings available to make the handrail itself easy to put together:
Thanks for offering up the sliding horizontal idea. I could see a sliding trombone style handrail working quite nicely up there. I’m going to shy away a bit from a railing that completely detaches for fear of dropping it off the ledge - there might be a few expensive things down there to damage (someday).
Regarding the doors… Rafter pitch is 4/12 and cross bracing around the main column is about 42” high, but might grow if I cut out the gusset some. Rectangular doors might be the easiest to build and your bi-fold idea would let me maximize the opening size while still allowing them to swing without hitting the railing. Triangular doors are always a pain, but I still think there is merit in this idea from earlier in Reply #1225:
Of course, many things are easy to sketch, but prove to be difficult or impossible to build and make work properly.
HOTFR8 - Thanks. It’s killing me to know there is a usable storage platform up there that still can’t be filled until I get the rest of the details finished (walls, ceiling, lighting). Soon.
akdiesel - Don’t get too excited about the C.U.P.O.L.A. yet - its down really far on “the list”
. Unfortunately, we all have priorities.The Library Ladder project was kicked off over two years ago with this post - Reply #298 and the Index will point you to other related replies on the subject. I salvaged the overhead track system from our old dairy barn and repurposed it into a full perimeter ladder track and trolley. The simple extension ladder from the scaffold will hang on it. Completion of this loft is all that stands in the way of finishing it and I must say I’m really sick of tripping over the rail sections that have been sitting on the floor for about a year now.
I need to research what Unistrut parts are available to help me with this. The lifting platform concept is intriguing. Maybe the platform could latch in flush with the loft floor once up there and allow easy offloading of bulky items (picture a car hood that needs to bypass that center column). I don’t need these operations to be quick, but they must be safe. The platform cannot be fairly light since the hoist track wasn’t designed for a heavy load. I envision detachable cables or chains lifting it like a drawbridge once latched in allowing it to swing up as you mention. Thanks for tossing the idea out there! A dedicated lifting platform, or at the very least, a lifting net like they use to load ships would certainly save time in strapping up things being lifted.
BTW, do you have a thread started on your place? I remember the snowmobile lift you built and would like to see any other creations you have come up with.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"Don’t get too excited about the C.U.P.O.L.A. yet - its down really far on “the list” . Unfortunately, we all have priorities."
'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' made it onto 'The LIST! YEA! That bit of news is almost as good as hearing that Tin Bender has "visions of urinals dancing in his head"! lol
Excedrin Headache #69 Prevention Suggestion - Have you considered replacing both the post gusset and the cross-tie with two matching pieces of plate steel in the shape of a bent/stepped arrowhead? Both pieces cut to fit the profile of the post and rafter. The two 90 degree bends to wrap to the outside of the rafter on each arrowhead shaft, through holes drilled with solid blocking between the rafters, and long bolts making the post, rafters, blocking, and two arrowheads all one solid unit. That would be overkill, for sure, but you would be certain that when those hurricane force winds try to rip off the roof (since 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' won't be in place when Mr. Bernoulli shows up), the big blow will have to have enough of a pressure differential to take the post and loft too! lol
As for the doors, I would skip them entirely and simply use a burlap type of curtain along the railing. It's purpose is just cosmetic, right? Using a breathable fabric would allow for ventilation of the loft. I imagine it gets a 'might warm' up there in the summer and it would permit 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' window breeze to ventilate the entire ceiling area! (heh-heh; I'm trying to get that project bumped up 'The List'!
I really like the idea of the 'trombone pipe' type of arrangement for the railing; it seems it would be cheap, sturdy, and practical for the shop loft. Of course, you could go overboard (pun intended) and order up some N'awlins fancy schmancy wrought iron railings to really make a statement for 'The Asylum'! Just think Shopnut, you could have your very own Bourbon Street Bordello Balcony railing gracing the edge of the loft. Instead of simple burlap curtains hung behind the railing, you could order up something exotic like French Silk Brocade or even Chantilly Lace; you might just have to turn in your 'Man Card' though if you did something like that!
Oh well, you asked for ideas, and considering the source (me), I hope you take my suggestions with the spirit in which they were given; freely, and not encumbered by the thought process!
'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' made it onto 'The LIST! YEA! That bit of news is almost as good as hearing that Tin Bender has "visions of urinals dancing in his head"! lol
Excedrin Headache #69 Prevention Suggestion - Have you considered replacing both the post gusset and the cross-tie with two matching pieces of plate steel in the shape of a bent/stepped arrowhead? Both pieces cut to fit the profile of the post and rafter. The two 90 degree bends to wrap to the outside of the rafter on each arrowhead shaft, through holes drilled with solid blocking between the rafters, and long bolts making the post, rafters, blocking, and two arrowheads all one solid unit. That would be overkill, for sure, but you would be certain that when those hurricane force winds try to rip off the roof (since 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' won't be in place when Mr. Bernoulli shows up), the big blow will have to have enough of a pressure differential to take the post and loft too! lol
As for the doors, I would skip them entirely and simply use a burlap type of curtain along the railing. It's purpose is just cosmetic, right? Using a breathable fabric would allow for ventilation of the loft. I imagine it gets a 'might warm' up there in the summer and it would permit 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' window breeze to ventilate the entire ceiling area! (heh-heh; I'm trying to get that project bumped up 'The List'!
I really like the idea of the 'trombone pipe' type of arrangement for the railing; it seems it would be cheap, sturdy, and practical for the shop loft. Of course, you could go overboard (pun intended) and order up some N'awlins fancy schmancy wrought iron railings to really make a statement for 'The Asylum'! Just think Shopnut, you could have your very own Bourbon Street Bordello Balcony railing gracing the edge of the loft. Instead of simple burlap curtains hung behind the railing, you could order up something exotic like French Silk Brocade or even Chantilly Lace; you might just have to turn in your 'Man Card' though if you did something like that!
Oh well, you asked for ideas, and considering the source (me), I hope you take my suggestions with the spirit in which they were given; freely, and not encumbered by the thought process!
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akdiesel
Well-known member
Thanks. I have a few threads out there. I should gather them all up and start a thread like yours.
Working on the trolley set up for the ladder and heavy transport, as well as two possible jib cranes.
I will try to take notes and photos.
Can't wait for your improvements.
Working on the trolley set up for the ladder and heavy transport, as well as two possible jib cranes.
I will try to take notes and photos.
Can't wait for your improvements.
tinbender 66
Well-known member
That pic of the lift with the attachments for carrying plywood brings back memories. We did a lot of work out of Genie 65' and 85' boom lifts and used them a lot as "cranes". A channel at the bottom, a couple of clamps at the railing and we could put up 20' long 20 ga. siding panels with ease (somewhat, until you have to lift them out of the channel, slap them to the wall and hang on until you could get a screw in them). Those big lifts are one thing I miss about that job! That plus the company rented so much equipment from those guys that if one of us needed something for a weekend they would drop it off on Friday, pick it up on Monday and as long as it was clean and full of fuel there was no charge.
Red Leader
Well-known member
Shopnut, things are looking good out there. Most of the rigging stuff goes 'over my head' at the current moment - which isn't too hard considering I've been down on my hands and knees grinding and vacuuming and such (sorry, really lame joke haha)
But your work makes me want to fly you out to Colorado just so you can stop on by my place and rig up...something. I don't even care what it is
Great to see the work. You stayin' busy out there helped motivate me to get back to business. After all, I was gettin' left in the dust!!!
(sorry, really lame joke haha)But your work makes me want to fly you out to Colorado just so you can stop on by my place and rig up...something. I don't even care what it is
Great to see the work. You stayin' busy out there helped motivate me to get back to business. After all, I was gettin' left in the dust!!!
Omphaloskeptic - Yep, the CUPOLA made it to the list. And I follow you on the steel plates to replace the gusset and maybe something along those lines will work. I need to decide soon what to do about it.
I could definitely use some kind of fabric for those doors - it might make the triangular door easy to deal with. I do want the doors to seal out some of the dust, however, but I also need to keep ventilation in mind as you mention.
Yes, I think the trombone railings could work nicely and I'm searching out telescopic pipe to do the job. Because I won't really be standing up there to lean on it, it doesn't have to be overly strong. I could see myself, however, sitting out up there at the end of the day with my legs dangling over the edge enjoying a cold one. To be honest, I've never been one to like that fancy wrought iron stuff, so don't hold your breath on that one. I'll try to keep a supply of beads up there just in case the Marti Gras breaks out in the Asylum, however.
akdiesel - Sounds like you have some interesting projects in your head. Time to get a thread started, I'd say.
tinbender_66 - Must have been nice to get that equipment whenever you wanted it, and even better for a good price - FREE!
I do need to be mindful of that 300 lb capacity. Hanging something off the front of the basket is much more stressful on the structure than in the middle. I'm looking forward to using it to install the tin on the front of the building
Red Leader - Thanks. We all go through those boring, seemingly endless jobs to reach our goals - it's just part of it. But the result always seem to make it all worth it.
I'm all for rigging something up for the retro garage. Maybe a 1950s power tool turntable to go on that custom workbench. Like a "select-a-tool" rotisserie. That would be kind of cool.
"Left in the dust" - good one. Somehow, I think you could have been going 90mph and you wouldn't have been able to outrun that dust.
I could definitely use some kind of fabric for those doors - it might make the triangular door easy to deal with. I do want the doors to seal out some of the dust, however, but I also need to keep ventilation in mind as you mention.
Yes, I think the trombone railings could work nicely and I'm searching out telescopic pipe to do the job. Because I won't really be standing up there to lean on it, it doesn't have to be overly strong. I could see myself, however, sitting out up there at the end of the day with my legs dangling over the edge enjoying a cold one. To be honest, I've never been one to like that fancy wrought iron stuff, so don't hold your breath on that one. I'll try to keep a supply of beads up there just in case the Marti Gras breaks out in the Asylum, however.
akdiesel - Sounds like you have some interesting projects in your head. Time to get a thread started, I'd say.
tinbender_66 - Must have been nice to get that equipment whenever you wanted it, and even better for a good price - FREE!
I do need to be mindful of that 300 lb capacity. Hanging something off the front of the basket is much more stressful on the structure than in the middle. I'm looking forward to using it to install the tin on the front of the building
Red Leader - Thanks. We all go through those boring, seemingly endless jobs to reach our goals - it's just part of it. But the result always seem to make it all worth it.
I'm all for rigging something up for the retro garage. Maybe a 1950s power tool turntable to go on that custom workbench. Like a "select-a-tool" rotisserie. That would be kind of cool.
"Left in the dust" - good one. Somehow, I think you could have been going 90mph and you wouldn't have been able to outrun that dust
.FIXING UP THE OLD MANLIFT (PART 1 OF MANY )…
The manlift has proven its worth by transporting me and materials up to the loft, so it’s time to repair a few things on it. Since it will become a permanent fixture of the Asylum, I will keep you updated on the progress from time to time. Things like this vacuum would be tough the carry up the ladder.
The most annoying thing was the damaged/missing crank handles on the outriggers. When I picked up the man-lift, the outriggers where lying in the basket. Why? - I don’t know, because they swing in and store nicely on the unit. But from tossing them about, the crank handles had taken a beating. Two were mangled beyond recognition and the other two were missing altogether. The ever versatile Vice-Grip was used for a short time, but I ended up finding some replacement cranks for $3.50/ea.
Upon disassembly of the jacks, I was pleased to find ball thrust bearings in there and that the Acme screw threads were in great shape. Normally when rebuilding something, I would clean up everything really good, but this time I just applied some new grease on the threads/bearings and worked it in with my drill. A thorough cleanup will occur when I repaint the lift.
And here it is all back together. The last thing I did was add some rubber caps from Reid Supply to keep them from scratching the floor.
They work so effortlessly now that it's hard to tell when you start lifting the casters off the ground while cranking. Perfect! The only thing wrong with them is their “new” look reminds me how badly the rest of the unit needs fresh paint
)…The manlift has proven its worth by transporting me and materials up to the loft, so it’s time to repair a few things on it. Since it will become a permanent fixture of the Asylum, I will keep you updated on the progress from time to time. Things like this vacuum would be tough the carry up the ladder.
The most annoying thing was the damaged/missing crank handles on the outriggers. When I picked up the man-lift, the outriggers where lying in the basket. Why? - I don’t know, because they swing in and store nicely on the unit. But from tossing them about, the crank handles had taken a beating. Two were mangled beyond recognition and the other two were missing altogether. The ever versatile Vice-Grip was used for a short time, but I ended up finding some replacement cranks for $3.50/ea.
Upon disassembly of the jacks, I was pleased to find ball thrust bearings in there and that the Acme screw threads were in great shape. Normally when rebuilding something, I would clean up everything really good, but this time I just applied some new grease on the threads/bearings and worked it in with my drill. A thorough cleanup will occur when I repaint the lift.
And here it is all back together. The last thing I did was add some rubber caps from Reid Supply to keep them from scratching the floor.
They work so effortlessly now that it's hard to tell when you start lifting the casters off the ground while cranking. Perfect! The only thing wrong with them is their “new” look reminds me how badly the rest of the unit needs fresh paint
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
So Shopnut, will your 'GJ buddies' get to pick the color(s) for the Manlift/ASCEND? Let's see, Jack has his J.O.Green, Thomas has his Powder Coat Red, ODIS has his Ferrari Canary Yellow, and you have what I would call 'Sunflower Yellow' or to give it a more manly moniker, 'Caution Flag Yellow'. What do you think? Do you trust your fellow GJ'ers to steer you right?
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Small projects are fun and easy to get completed. Scratch that one off the list! Or is it, scratch those four off the list?
I'd go with the yellow. Although if it were black, it wouldn't show dirt too much.
I'd go with the yellow. Although if it were black, it wouldn't show dirt too much.
It has been a pleasure to read through your shop's story, the level of detail you add to all of your posts is incredible. Though I think you must have missed the fact that we, as engineers, are supposed to be horrible communicators!
Omphaloskeptic - The Henry Ford quote comes to mind - “You can have any color as long as it’s black” in reference to his Model-T (Just kidding).
By all means, please give me some suggestions on the manlift color(s). I don’t have a keen sense of color and need all the help I can get. “Caution Flag Yellow” in definitely appropriate for the Asylum for various reasons I won’t mention so that needs to be worked in somehow. Those Stanley cabinets set the tone for me years ago and I’ve just been following that theme - but it’s one I like. (I have given the manlift some thought that I share immediately below)
Wingnut65 - Yes, I like those little jobs that make a big difference. It’s usually the other way around for me, unfortunately. We share similar thoughts on the manlift colors as you will see if you keep reading. I was thinking black for the chassis so it would be easy to touch up, but your dirt comment is another good point.
Here are my quick thoughts on the Manlift colors thus far…
There’s probably no surprise when I say I’m thinking about sticking with the Yellow/Black/Silver theme in the Asylum. Black for the chassis, silver for the lift mast sections, and yellow for the basket might look nice. I was thinking a black divider stripe of some kind between the silver mast and the yellow basket would add some needed contrast. And outriggers probably should be yellow with some caution stripping so I don’t trip on them all the time and this would also contrast the black chassis nicely.
To do this to Shopnut’s standards, the manlift really needs to be fully disassembled and the parts painted individually. This also would allow me to lube everything properly and fix anything needing repair. But this will take a bunch of time - time I don’t really have right now. So I’m trying to figure out if a quick paint job could be done soon to make it look “acceptable” for a year or two (or 3 or 4).
The basket could be removed without much effort and properly prepped and sprayed. The mast could be lifted slightly, gaining decent access to the chassis so it could be sprayed almost entirely, especially on the outer visible surfaces. I don’t see any easy way to paint the assembled mast without getting overspray on everything (I hate overspray on hoses, chains, and fittings), but I have a surplus of silver oil-based paint right now that could be carefully brushed on at least the outside faces and maybe inside somewhat. The best way to reach most spots is to raise the mast as far as possible, exposing more surfaces.
Although any paint on there now would help slow down the rusting process, I don’t want to give it a mediocre paint job now that makes it more work later on when a good one is performed. So at this point, I could do a really good job on the basket, outriggers, and removable body panels to give them their “final” paint job. The chassis and mast would just get a quick job after knocking down the loose rust.
See - I haven’t given it much thought yet.
(sarcasm). But not a drop of paint has been applied yet, so I'm all ears.
markf4e - Glad you enjoyed it and it’s good to see another engineer on the forum. Trust me, I’m the stereotypical engineer and I have to work pretty darn hard at making this somewhat clear for you folks. Heck, sometimes I go back to read it and can’t figure out what I was trying to say. Hopefully the readers are making some sense out of it all.
Thanks for “stopping in”.
(Just kidding). By all means, please give me some suggestions on the manlift color(s). I don’t have a keen sense of color and need all the help I can get. “Caution Flag Yellow” in definitely appropriate for the Asylum for various reasons I won’t mention
so that needs to be worked in somehow. Those Stanley cabinets set the tone for me years ago and I’ve just been following that theme - but it’s one I like. (I have given the manlift some thought that I share immediately below)Wingnut65 - Yes, I like those little jobs that make a big difference. It’s usually the other way around for me, unfortunately
. We share similar thoughts on the manlift colors as you will see if you keep reading. I was thinking black for the chassis so it would be easy to touch up, but your dirt comment is another good point.Here are my quick thoughts on the Manlift colors thus far…
There’s probably no surprise when I say I’m thinking about sticking with the Yellow/Black/Silver theme in the Asylum. Black for the chassis, silver for the lift mast sections, and yellow for the basket might look nice. I was thinking a black divider stripe of some kind between the silver mast and the yellow basket would add some needed contrast. And outriggers probably should be yellow with some caution stripping so I don’t trip on them all the time and this would also contrast the black chassis nicely.
To do this to Shopnut’s standards, the manlift really needs to be fully disassembled and the parts painted individually. This also would allow me to lube everything properly and fix anything needing repair. But this will take a bunch of time - time I don’t really have right now. So I’m trying to figure out if a quick paint job could be done soon to make it look “acceptable” for a year or two (or 3 or 4).
The basket could be removed without much effort and properly prepped and sprayed. The mast could be lifted slightly, gaining decent access to the chassis so it could be sprayed almost entirely, especially on the outer visible surfaces. I don’t see any easy way to paint the assembled mast without getting overspray on everything (I hate overspray on hoses, chains, and fittings), but I have a surplus of silver oil-based paint right now that could be carefully brushed on at least the outside faces and maybe inside somewhat. The best way to reach most spots is to raise the mast as far as possible, exposing more surfaces.
Although any paint on there now would help slow down the rusting process, I don’t want to give it a mediocre paint job now that makes it more work later on when a good one is performed. So at this point, I could do a really good job on the basket, outriggers, and removable body panels to give them their “final” paint job. The chassis and mast would just get a quick job after knocking down the loose rust.
See - I haven’t given it much thought yet.
(sarcasm). But not a drop of paint has been applied yet, so I'm all ears.markf4e - Glad you enjoyed it and it’s good to see another engineer on the forum. Trust me, I’m the stereotypical engineer and I have to work pretty darn hard at making this somewhat clear for you folks. Heck, sometimes I go back to read it and can’t figure out what I was trying to say. Hopefully the readers are making some sense out of it all.
Thanks for “stopping in”.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Any chance to lay the lift down and extend to to the fullest? Then painting would be managable.
I'd suggest a few 99₵ cans of spay paint from HD. Wrap the gables and chains in newspaper and then spray what you can see. I was thinking Black for the mast to hide any dirt or grease from the chains. Also, black spray paint on the chains won't be noticed. Just think, if it is dirty now, it will get dirty there again, unless the OCD kicks in and the ASCEND gets washed and waxed after every use, just like the rides.
I'd suggest a few 99₵ cans of spay paint from HD. Wrap the gables and chains in newspaper and then spray what you can see. I was thinking Black for the mast to hide any dirt or grease from the chains. Also, black spray paint on the chains won't be noticed. Just think, if it is dirty now, it will get dirty there again, unless the OCD kicks in and the ASCEND gets washed and waxed after every use, just like the rides.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
A 'quick-and-dirty' paint job is better than no paint job at all. I'd opt for the following:
- Roll the ASCEND outside onto some OSB sheets, far enough away from the Asylum so that over spray isn't a problem.
- Extend the ASCEND completely; outriggers deployed, of course.
- Use one of your many ladders available to descend from the ASCEND
- Roll out your scaffold adjacent to the ASCEND (safety strapped together)
- Use garden sprayer and thinner/solvent to degrease the entire beast
- Break out the pressure washer/soap and douche that puppy down; rinse thoroughly
- Use a leaf-blower to 'air dry' while that Florida sun bakes it
- Using a couple boxes of Saran-wrap/newspapers/cardboard/whatever mask off the areas you don't want coated
- Break out the portable paint sprayer loaded red primer and givherhellharry!
- Reload sprayer with 'Caution Flag Yellow' and givherhellharry until the beast no longer shows the 'pink' from the red primer 'underlayer'
- Let dry, remove all masking material, brush lube on chains and other moving bare metal
- Let the ASCEND descend and roll it back into the shop
- At your leisure, brush on any desired accent colors, but you may at that point decide you do not 'desire' to cover up that great 'Caution Flag Yellow' with any additional hue. lol
- Roll the ASCEND outside onto some OSB sheets, far enough away from the Asylum so that over spray isn't a problem.
- Extend the ASCEND completely; outriggers deployed, of course.
- Use one of your many ladders available to descend from the ASCEND
- Roll out your scaffold adjacent to the ASCEND (safety strapped together)
- Use garden sprayer and thinner/solvent to degrease the entire beast
- Break out the pressure washer/soap and douche that puppy down; rinse thoroughly
- Use a leaf-blower to 'air dry' while that Florida sun bakes it
- Using a couple boxes of Saran-wrap/newspapers/cardboard/whatever mask off the areas you don't want coated
- Break out the portable paint sprayer loaded red primer and givherhellharry!
- Reload sprayer with 'Caution Flag Yellow' and givherhellharry until the beast no longer shows the 'pink' from the red primer 'underlayer'
- Let dry, remove all masking material, brush lube on chains and other moving bare metal
- Let the ASCEND descend and roll it back into the shop
- At your leisure, brush on any desired accent colors, but you may at that point decide you do not 'desire' to cover up that great 'Caution Flag Yellow' with any additional hue. lol
Wingnut65 - Laying it down extended might be a stretch (no pun intended ). But is sure would make it easy to work on. Inside is where most of the gunk builds up, for sure, and black would hide it. The good thing is you don't see it when the basket is down. There is a sheet metal panel completely hiding one side and the basket and another small panel hides the other. I guess I mostly want it to look decent when its down and stored. Not many people will see it in action. A big cover might do the trick, but then everyone will wonder what's under there - you know how that goes. Thanks for the good ideas.
Omphaloskeptic - It looks like I have everything to attempt that paint job, O. All except that harry-helper, that is. I need him to do more of the steps though!
The lift does have ground controls so at least one step could be crossed off that list (descend from the ASCEND). The Gunk Foamy Engine Brite degreaser that I use doesn't hurt the grass either, so I could do it right out front. Not sure what large doses might do to the well water, however 
.
Another thing I found that works really good for masking odd shaped things is aluminum foil (Reynolds wrap). And at work for the reasonably flat surfaces to be masked off, they use magnetic sheet on repetitive parts.
Man, you make it sound so easy! I'm not sure why it's not painted already
). But is sure would make it easy to work on. Inside is where most of the gunk builds up, for sure, and black would hide it. The good thing is you don't see it when the basket is down. There is a sheet metal panel completely hiding one side and the basket and another small panel hides the other. I guess I mostly want it to look decent when its down and stored. Not many people will see it in action. A big cover might do the trick, but then everyone will wonder what's under there - you know how that goes. Thanks for the good ideas.Omphaloskeptic - It looks like I have everything to attempt that paint job, O. All except that harry-helper, that is
. I need him to do more of the steps though!The lift does have ground controls so at least one step could be crossed off that list (descend from the ASCEND). The Gunk Foamy Engine Brite degreaser that I use doesn't hurt the grass either, so I could do it right out front. Not sure what large doses might do to the well water, however
.Another thing I found that works really good for masking odd shaped things is aluminum foil (Reynolds wrap). And at work for the reasonably flat surfaces to be masked off, they use magnetic sheet on repetitive parts.
Man, you make it sound so easy! I'm not sure why it's not painted already
FIXING UP THE OLD MANLIFT (PART 2 OF ???)…
Another problem I noticed was a missing breather line from the lift cylinder. Although this wasn’t really hurting the performance, it certainly could affect longevity of the hydraulic system by allowing dirt into the system with every lift/lower cycle. Luckily, the fittings were there so I just needed to find some matching hose for the compression fittings.
Since this manlift is 20 years old, I thought it was a good idea to replace the high pressure hydraulic hose. A longer, but suitable one was found at the farm store. Since the replacement hose has simple male end fittings a swivel adapter will be needed for installation. Not knowing where I will route it yet to take up the slack, I bought a straight and 90 adapter to give me choices.
The previous owner said he replaced the hydraulic oil recently, but not knowing what oil was used and knowing that breather hose was missing for who knows how long, I decided to find the proper oil and replace it. After some searching, I found the recommended Mobil oil online for a really good price of $20 with a $5 shipping fee. Zoro.com was the source and it arrived in two days - I was impressed!
I've collected many battery chargers over the years and I'm going to mount one on the manlift semi-permanently. One fit in and the meter matched the cutout in the body panel if I tilted it just right.
Another problem I noticed was a missing breather line from the lift cylinder. Although this wasn’t really hurting the performance, it certainly could affect longevity of the hydraulic system by allowing dirt into the system with every lift/lower cycle. Luckily, the fittings were there so I just needed to find some matching hose for the compression fittings.
Since this manlift is 20 years old, I thought it was a good idea to replace the high pressure hydraulic hose. A longer, but suitable one was found at the farm store. Since the replacement hose has simple male end fittings a swivel adapter will be needed for installation. Not knowing where I will route it yet to take up the slack, I bought a straight and 90 adapter to give me choices.
The previous owner said he replaced the hydraulic oil recently, but not knowing what oil was used and knowing that breather hose was missing for who knows how long, I decided to find the proper oil and replace it. After some searching, I found the recommended Mobil oil online for a really good price of $20 with a $5 shipping fee. Zoro.com was the source and it arrived in two days - I was impressed!
I've collected many battery chargers over the years and I'm going to mount one on the manlift semi-permanently. One fit in and the meter matched the cutout in the body panel if I tilted it just right.
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akdiesel
Well-known member
Shopnut, I must have misse it, what's the weight limit of the man lift, and is it a belt operated lift?
akdiesel - The manlift basket is rated at 300 lbs so that gives me about 130 lbs for materials that are riding up with me if I push it to the limit. A 12VDC hydraulic power pack supplies up to 2000 psi to the cylinder (ram) to lift the first mast section. Each subsequent section is lifted by two leaf chains so there's a total of 8 chains in there to keep oiled.
akdiesel
Well-known member
Wow, only 300#. Must be an industrial safety standard rating, looks like it would lift more than that.
All the lifts in this class from Bil-Jax, Genie, and such are rated in the 300-350# range. It's likely there's a safety factor of somewhere between 3:1 to 5:1 built in to the structure, so they probably may appear to be somewhat overbuilt. My guess is their ratings take into account a heavyweight person carrying some tools, similar to how ladders are rated. Luckily, my lean-mean physique allows some extra cargo to ride up with me and this is really convenient (and safe) compared to a using a ladder
. Although I'm now feeling comfortable at the 15-16 ft heights that I raise it to in the Asylum, I'm not sure I would want to be up in any of these lifts at 25ft with full capacity in the basket - that might take some getting used to. Certainly, one would have to put a lot of faith into the engineer(s) that designed it!
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"Certainly, one would have to put a lot of faith into the engineer(s) that designed it! "
Being an engineer.... Thou surely doth jest! (Remember the Pinto?) lol
Being an engineer.... Thou surely doth jest! (Remember the Pinto?) lol
Yeah, an old girlfriend in high school had a Pinto - I was always watching behind us when she took me for a ride. "Quit tailgating man - can't you see its a Pinto!"
As in most professions, there are GOOD engineers and there are BAD engineers. Hopefully the BAD ones find another career quickly. And hopefully the GOOD ones still have someone checking their work because they're liable to have a BAD day sooner or later.
I looked over the lift pretty closely before buying, not only for condition, but also for initial design. It seems adequately engineered. I just need to get a little seat time in it before pushing the limits (which I'm sure I'll eventually do
)