Ideas to make a lift fit and take advantage of an odd space?

AndrewnTX · Dec 28, 2012

What ideas do you guys have about utilizing an existing feature to allow a lift to fit in my garage?

My garage is on the front of the house, swing style, and the front bay 1 has an arched window up high, in this picture you can see the window flanked by 2 columns.

DSCN0211 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

Bay 1, closest to the street:

DSCN0212 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

Inside, there is an interesting space behind the window. The ceiling is about 10-0 in the garage, however it is raised almost 5 feet in this area, in roughly a 5 ft x 5 ft x 10 ft long boxed space.

IMG_1519 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

Oddly enough, my Econoline cab looks like it would tuck right into that space, if only it was about 3 feet wider.

IMG_1518 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

Kevin_b_c · Dec 28, 2012

From the looks of it, the width of that raised space is only half the width of that bay. You may be able to widen the space by having the next few trusses beside it reengineered.
Is the attic space over your garage accessable?

omr · Dec 28, 2012

Even if you open that space to allow more clearance, you will still need a different type of door opener or possibly a new door.

Kevin_b_c · Dec 28, 2012

We would need to see photos of the inside of that attic looking towards that raised space. Any chance you have the building plans from the house? haha.

omr said:
Even if you open that space to allow more clearance, you will still need a different type of door opener or possibly a new door.

I think that's the least of his worries. He could re-use the door, it would just require altering the mounting positions of the opener.

AndrewnTX · Dec 28, 2012

Kevin_b_c said:
From the looks of it, the width of that raised space is only half the width of that bay. You may be able to widen the space by having the next few trusses beside it reengineered.
Is the attic space over your garage accessable?

That's about right, maybe 5 feet wide.. and yes the attic above the garage is accessible. I will get a few pics of how it looks from in there. I wonder how big a project that is to widen that box ... worth calling a few people out to see.

omr said:
Even if you open that space to allow more clearance, you will still need a different type of door opener or possibly a new door.

Ok, the opener and track would need to be changed to get them out of the way... and a high lift door/track installed...

Strouty · Dec 28, 2012

You may be able to open up the entire bay. Get some pictures so we can see, but I would go talk to a truss company and see what they can come up with. That would give you plenty of height for almost any two post lift. I love the econoline!

wssix99 · Dec 29, 2012

It looks like the builder went with vaulted trusses near the window and standard ones further in. (He/she would have saved a few bucks by doing this.)

Opening the bay will probably require some professional engineering and re-construction of the roof. Its a big job, but probably worth it.

camarotoolman · Dec 29, 2012

Sister 2x8s beside the trusses for new rafters, put stringers across the ceiling, high enough not to hit the roof of your tallest truck. redo the dw. Redo the door track up near the pitched ceiling, get a different door opener. I like the window up high, nice for natural light, thats how I built my g. Nice looking house.

AndrewnTX · Dec 30, 2012

Thanks guys for the feedback. I haven't gotten up there for attic pics yet. Funny part would be if that truck was set up on the runway and lifted into that space, the cab would be on display on the front window, lol. That would be cool.

AndrewnTX · Jan 3, 2013

Challenge one:

Door opener... To put up the Liftmaster 3800 and get the door tracks up high, I need about 8-9" to the side of the track per the Liftmaster install guide...

Starting at Bay 1 (single bay closest the street), the door track is up tight to the wall.. uh oh...

Then where Bay 1 and 2 tracks are mounted, there's only 6" or so between the tracks.. 2nd uh oh..

Other side of Bay 3, plenty of room on the wall there to mount the opener for the double bay door.

Looks like no room for a jackshaft opener for Bay 1 door.. Ideas?..

franksgiants · Jan 5, 2013

Wow i have never seen a garge door that close?I wonder if there is a work around for it?

AndrewnTX · Jan 5, 2013

I'm sorta stumped... One possible way is if I only intall the high lift single door in Bay 1, leaving Bay 2/3 and its double door low as is, then it could fit the 3800 opener up high between the doors and clear the jackshaft etc of the double door. But that would restrict clearance on the double bay for future consideration. Need to think on it a bit.

I'm having a contractor out today to take a look on the structural part of extending the vaulted part and/or other ideas he may have to gain headroom. He's familar with the houses in the area, appreciates the car hobby and from my telephone description of the layout, seems optimistic on it being fairly straightforward. I will get some attic photos here in a bit.

I guess that means it's finally time to clean out the attic.. the last homeowners left me decades of useless stuff, and I added several sets of wheels and car parts to that.. looks like a run to the junkyard to drop a pickup truck full is in order.. ugghhh.

Funny conversation with my daughter, she looked over my shoulder when I was on the BendPak site... she said, "Daddy you should get one of those so we can fit more cars in the garage"... haha, she's 7..

Then I said, "yeah, that's a great idea!... and come look at this interesting space in Bay 1.." We ran out to the freezing garage.. she said " wow I never noticed that.. you really should have that extended all the way across!! That will make a lot of room!" Kids are funny.

Dakota00 · Jan 5, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
I'm sorta stumped... One possible way is if I only intall the high lift single door in Bay 1, leaving Bay 2/3 and its double door low as is, then it could fit the 3800 opener up high between the doors and clear the jackshaft etc of the double door. But that would restrict clearance on the double bay for future consideration. Need to think on it a bit.

My 2 single garage doors have the same setup like yours. Like you said, that's the only conclusion I came up with that will work for me. I'll be adding a high lift single door on one side, which will house the lift. Leaving the other door in the original position, making for enough room to fit a Liftmaster 3800 on the high lift door.

DonnyT · Jan 5, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
Challenge one:

Door opener... To put up the Liftmaster 3800 and get the door tracks up high, I need about 8-9" to the side of the track per the Liftmaster install guide...

Starting at Bay 1 (single bay closest the street), the door track is up tight to the wall.. uh oh...

Then where Bay 1 and 2 tracks are mounted, there's only 6" or so between the tracks.. 2nd uh oh..

Other side of Bay 3, plenty of room on the wall there to mount the opener for the double bay door.

Looks like no room for a jackshaft opener for Bay 1 door.. Ideas?..

I believe Liftmaster sells an offset that will allow use of the 3800. I will see if I can find it and add the link.\
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/... CUT AND PASTE THE ABOVE HIGHLIGHTED THREAD.

PECVD2 · Jan 5, 2013

I would just remove the garage door opener and purchase a single post lift like this from Greg Smith or others.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/M...up=npadwords&gclid=CMShz4HY0bQCFehDMgod_FUA8w

AndrewnTX · Jan 5, 2013

DonnyT said:
I believe Liftmaster sells an offset that will allow use of the 3800. I will see if I can find it and add the link.\
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...up=npadwords&gclid=CMShz4HY0bQCFehDMgod_FUA8w

The goal on this is (and I should have stated it in the beginning), is to add parking capacity and also have a lift for working on vehicles. I could ditch the opener on Bay 1, true, just have a manually operated door... but I will need to go 4 post for the parking space.

AndrewnTX · Jan 5, 2013

Update with some pictures in the attic:

And the contractor came by, he took a close look and we talked about what could be done. He is working up a bid. What we discussed today is simply carrying the vaulted portion in the same length and height, across the garage to go through Bay 2. Bay 3 as you will see in the pictures has the attic stair plus a hot water heater in the attic, he recommended to not modify anything in Bay 3.

After he left I got busy cleaning out the attic. The previous homeowners left me decades of junk up there, after pulling it all down, this is my pickup load heading to the dump to get rid of it!

Attic pics: The first attic picture is the view from attic stair out towards the vaulted area, you can see the framed box shape. Next, 2 side shots of the rafters again towards the vaulted area. Next pic is a close view of the vaulted area.

Chevy72pu · Jan 5, 2013

In your op you said the CAB should tuck up in there. If you are going to spend the $ to do this, I think you should make it usable for other vehicles. You may not always have the Econoline, or you may want to put another vehicle on there. My $00.02 worth.

DonnyT · Jan 5, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
Challenge one:

Door opener... To put up the Liftmaster 3800 and get the door tracks up high, I need about 8-9" to the side of the track per the Liftmaster install guide...

Starting at Bay 1 (single bay closest the street), the door track is up tight to the wall.. uh oh...

Then where Bay 1 and 2 tracks are mounted, there's only 6" or so between the tracks.. 2nd uh oh..

Other side of Bay 3, plenty of room on the wall there to mount the opener for the double bay door.

Looks like no room for a jackshaft opener for Bay 1 door.. Ideas?..

I thought you could mount the 3800 between the two doors using the offset. The 3800 would be above the door (close to ceiling and above torsion spring) (as per photo on right in thread # 10)

Playwme · Jan 5, 2013

Change to roller doors. You've got a ton of headroom above the door opening. I can't understand why the sectional doors are so popular. The track systems are ugly as hell and always seem to be a limiting factor. I've seen some awesome high dollar garages on here yet they're almost always cheapened by having the door tracks and garage openers hanging down like a cheap DIY kit.

AndrewnTX · Jan 6, 2013

Chevy72pu said:
In your op you said the CAB should tuck up in there. If you are going to spend the $ to do this, I think you should make it usable for other vehicles. You may not always have the Econoline, or you may want to put another vehicle on there. My $00.02 worth.

True. That's a good point. The contractor also was thinking to raise more of the ceiling, but other parts would only go up 2-0 or so due to rafters. Here's the dimensions of the vaulted area, I just measured again :

Width across window is 10-0. (4-0 wide window and 3-0 on either side.)
Height is of vaulted part is just under 5-0 at 57". The new ceiling would be almost 15-0.

Seems that would accomodate other vehicles besides the Econoline cab. And it's located in such decent spot (ie fairly centered on the lift) The upper part of most sedans and sports cars, as long as less than 9-0 or so could utilze that space. No the full length of vehicle won't fit but the glass to roof would.

We'll see what sort of $ bid I get, the whole thing may be too $.

bazzateer · Jan 6, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
Funny conversation with my daughter, she looked over my shoulder when I was on the BendPak site... she said, "Daddy you should get one of those so we can fit more cars in the garage"... haha, she's 7..

Then I said, "yeah, that's a great idea!... and come look at this interesting space in Bay 1.." We ran out to the freezing garage.. she said " wow I never noticed that.. you really should have that extended all the way across!! That will make a lot of room!" Kids are funny.

She sounds like a keeper for someone in the future! Hang on a minute! My Boy's 9 :beer:

AndrewnTX · Jan 9, 2013

Playwme said:
Change to roller doors. You've got a ton of headroom above the door opening. I can't understand why the sectional doors are so popular. The track systems are ugly as hell and always seem to be a limiting factor. I've seen some awesome high dollar garages on here yet they're almost always cheapened by having the door tracks and garage openers hanging down like a cheap DIY kit.

bazzateer said:
She sounds like a keeper for someone in the future! Hang on a minute! My Boy's 9

Play...Roller door, hmm, will ask the garage door people, appt is this week for an estimate.

Bazzateer... she is an amazing little girl!

Ok guys, I'd like your opinions on what's a breakpoint cost where this just wouldn't be worth doing. Everyone has their own opinion sure, just wondering what garage gurus here think. No wrong answer. The end result would be two bays w 15-0 vaulted ceilings (fora length of 10-0), able to accommodate 2 lifts. Amount below is just for structural work, ceiling/paint etc, no lifts or doors. Those costs will be incurred whether I raise the ceiling or not.

$5k
$8k
$15k
$20k
$25k

AndrewnTX · Jan 11, 2013

Here's a layout I started, it's a work in progress but wanted to share how it is looking so far .. the CAD drawing shows the actual shape of the space, in side elevation. I also drew up a couple of vehicles and the lift. Shown are the '61 Econoline and an '08 Lexus GS460. The window is shown as well.

JakeKohl · Jan 11, 2013

Chevy72pu said:
In your op you said the CAB should tuck up in there. If you are going to spend the $ to do this, I think you should make it usable for other vehicles. You may not always have the Econoline, or you may want to put another vehicle on there. My $00.02 worth.

I'm with you - if he's going to go to all of this trouble - just make the existing bubble match the roofline. Sheetrock up the roof rafters (insulating/venting properly) and raise the entire ceiling .

JakeKohl · Jan 11, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
Here's a layout I started, it's a work in progress but wanted to share how it is looking so far .. the CAD drawing shows the actual shape of the space, in side elevation. I also drew up a couple of vehicles and the lift. Shown are the '61 Econoline and an '08 Lexus GS460. The window is shown as well.

I really would think about opening up the entire ceiling over that bay by basically moving the attic floor up to the upper level of that bump out and sheet rocking up the rafters - there would be less framing involved (probably offset with insulation and drywall).

JakeKohl · Jan 11, 2013

AndrewnTX said:
Play...Roller door, hmm, will ask the garage door people, appt is this week for an estimate.

Bazzateer... she is an amazing little girl!

Ok guys, I'd like your opinions on what's a breakpoint cost where this just wouldn't be worth doing. Everyone has their own opinion sure, just wondering what garage gurus here think. No wrong answer. The end result would be two bays w 15-0 vaulted ceilings (fora length of 10-0), able to accommodate 2 lifts. Amount below is just for structural work, ceiling/paint etc, no lifts or doors. Those costs will be incurred whether I raise the ceiling or not.

$5k
$8k
$15k
$20k
$25k

This is what I would expect:
$1000 framing/GC
$1200 - $1500 sheet rock
$800 paint
$1000 venting insulating.

$4 to $6 grand auta' do it...but when that contractor gets a look at your house it might go up :eyecrazy:

Are there any lights that need to move/rewire?

1320stang · Jan 11, 2013

Looks pretty easy, couldn't you DIY it?

AndrewnTX · Jan 14, 2013

Another layout with different vehicles in place. Thunderbird and Mustang.

1320stang, this is more DIY than I have time or skills to do.

Thanks for your comments JakeKohl. Yes, there are lights and electrical for lift and jackshaft opener, to be considered. I'm checking on your other comments to see what the limits are.

franksgiants · Jan 20, 2013

It would be nice opening up the entire ceiling but i disagree that it would cost less.I think its alot more work to rip everything out and start from scratch.You have a 10' opening for the roof line of a car to fit up there and that should fit almost any cars roof, with a lift all you need is more clearance for the roof most of the rest of the car should fit.It seems like a pretty easy job to just extened what you have but you will loose that storage space.You still have to worry about the garage door opener so look into that!

AndrewnTX · Jan 20, 2013

franksgiants said:
It would be nice opening up the entire ceiling but i disagree that it would cost less.I think its alot more work to rip everything out and start from scratch.You have a 10' opening for the roof line of a car to fit up there and that should fit almost any cars roof, with a lift all you need is more clearance for the roof most of the rest of the car should fit.It seems like a pretty easy job to just extened what you have but you will loose that storage space.You still have to worry about the garage door opener so look into that!

Right...

After a brainstorming visit and estimate from garage door people, on 1 vs both doors.... and more consideration of my overall goals plans and options, I have decided to go for the one bay vs. 2. This way, I can high lift bay 1 door and place the Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener to the LH side (above the large bay 2/3 door which will remain as is.

I agree that will give me great roof clearance for most any car, and will more than house that Econo truck. At least that's how the layout drawings look.... My contractor is reestimating the bid with the revised scope.

zmaxmotorsports · Jan 20, 2013

Playwme said:
Change to roller doors. You've got a ton of headroom above the door opening. I can't understand why the sectional doors are so popular. The track systems are ugly as hell and always seem to be a limiting factor. I've seen some awesome high dollar garages on here yet they're almost always cheapened by having the door tracks and garage openers hanging down like a cheap DIY kit.

We have a winner folks! :bounce:

JOHN 86GT · Jan 20, 2013

Nice truck !

AndrewnTX · Jan 20, 2013

zmaxmotorsports said:
We have a winner folks!

I don't think a commercial roll up is the answer for me. True, all the houses I've seen have sectional doors and residential door openers. Some concerns about changing to a roller commercial door would be expense and appearance and even code and HOA stuff. Need to keep the house looking as nice and normal as all the others.. and what opener to use, door seals and drafts, weight, etc. I did ask the garage door man who bid the rework about one, he said I would have to check w/ a commercial door company.

JOHN 86GT said:
Nice truck !

Thanks!

AndrewnTX · Jan 30, 2013

The work has begun. The wallboard was removed and temporary supports were made on the first day. Today, the new support beam is in place and planning for electrical is being done.

AndrewnTX · Jan 31, 2013

I've got a great contractor, he and his crew are making a lot of progress. And he is full of ideas and is just as excited about the project as me.

So as the ceiling was opened up and all the rafters exposed, we brainstormed some ideas and as some of you had mentioned, what about opening up the entire space above Bay 1? Have the ceiling follow the pitch of the roof?

It could be done, however, the minor left and right front roofline alongside the columns outside of the garage pitch in and encroach on the interior space, meaning the garage door track couldn't be high lifted up any higher than to 10-0. Now that the sheetrock is removed and you can see all the structure, it is pretty clear. Makes raising all that less exciting. At least not as useful. I have some pictures soon that will show what I mean. So based on that, we continued along the original plan to bump out existing vaulted section.

The car lift selection is next, and yes I found a lot of good info in 2001 Bandit's thread. My situation is tight too, along the left wall. I also want to be sure the lift doesn't take up space into Bay 2.

Before reading Bandit's thread, I was in the middle on a BendPak HD-9ST and HD-9 and at 99 3/4" and 116 3/4" width's respectively. After reading and seeing Jeff from BendPak's post about the Revision "M", it's perfect. I have about 112" across from left wall to start of Bay 2. So the HD-9 Rev "M" at 110 3/4" wide looks to be just right. See attached layout, HD-9 Rev M.

Check out the attached Garage Layout 61 entry.pdf. I made a crude animation of the Econoline pulling into the bay and the lift rising up. It's a .pdf, so just open it full page and tap "pg down" to progress each frame.

What do you think?

franksgiants · Jan 31, 2013

Sounds great i cant wait to see it!!

AndrewnTX · Jan 31, 2013

Here are some shots from the past few days. Moving along pretty good.

AndrewnTX · Feb 6, 2013

The sheetrock is roughed in. It's about done. Just wallwork, texture, and paint.

IMG_1660 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

IMG_1662 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

IMG_1651 by AndrewnTX, on Flickr

HMCFab9 · Feb 6, 2013

Nice house, Awesome Econoline & cool idea.
My only add would be that you may want to put some kind of shade on that window. If the Econoline is going to spend extended time up there & it gets strong direct sunlight... your Econoline isn't gonna look pretty.
(The part of it that get's the light because of UV rays, etc)
We did a 32 Ford 3 window for a guy & he kept it in his showroom right in front of the windows. The part that got direct sunlight (hood, etc) looked different than the rest of it because of fading, etc. The wide whitewalls on that side got Really discolored also.

Ideas to make a lift fit and take advantage of an odd space?

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