Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Those long lists can be intimidating!
I covered one of my walls with shelving. I made the doors out of white wall board so I can use them for dry erase boards. When I get started making notes about a project I cover several rows of doors.
...then I make "buy lists" and "build lists". Eventually I may actually make some of the stuff.
Good idea for the doors.
I incorporated a 3x4' sketch board near my stairway using that white glossy paneling. I haven't really put it to use yet, but I was just wondering if your white wall board erases as easily as the real "whiteboards" that are meant to be written on. Have you tried erasing ink that has been on there for weeks or months yet? My notes and doodles will probably tend to stay up they for a while. If there's a chance it can stain it, I will snap a photo of it and erase it if a sketch is up for longer than a couple weeks.
Just curious what you have experienced. Thanks.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
I use dry erase markers and if I erase it fairly quickly (same day) I can use the standard eraser. If I leave it for weeks I have to use the liquid they sell for the dry erase markers and a paper towel.
...a friend of mine tells me that in their office they use a sheet of glass and it works real good. I'd try that but I'd probably break the glass.
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Thanks mdbeck1 - looks like I better keep some cleaner handy for the whiteboard. I'm with you on the glass breakage. I had to switch to cans for my beverages - got sick of cleaning up the broken mess. Me and glass don't get along for some reason 
I STARTED A THREAD IN THE GENERAL SECTION ABOUT DOOR HOISTS…
As part of the project to cover up the front door drums, I will need to move one of the manually operated chain hoists from one side of the drum to the other. I felt there was some level of risk involved so I started a thread in the “General Garage Discussion” forum to see if anyone had some wisdom to share when working on these types of doors. Feel free to chime in over there or in this thread if you have some advice. Thanks.
Link: Question about moving chain hoist on roll-up doors
As part of the project to cover up the front door drums, I will need to move one of the manually operated chain hoists from one side of the drum to the other. I felt there was some level of risk involved so I started a thread in the “General Garage Discussion” forum to see if anyone had some wisdom to share when working on these types of doors. Feel free to chime in over there or in this thread if you have some advice. Thanks.
Link: Question about moving chain hoist on roll-up doors
machine_punk
Well-known member
Hey Shopnut! I thought is was time to get caught up on your thread. Looking great as usual!
Mrs. Machine_Punk and I use dry erase markers on the bathroom mirror all the time for 'to do' and 'remember to' lists. Works beautifully. We keep dry erase markers and an eraser in the bathroom just for this. Of course, the boys usually use theirs for drawing instead of practical reasons.
Oh...I like your idea of looking back each year at what happened in your shop over the year. Planning on a '1st Annual' post at The Aerodrome Studio soon (been working on a bathroom remodel lately...haven't had a lot of time in the garage since Christmas).
Kev
Mrs. Machine_Punk and I use dry erase markers on the bathroom mirror all the time for 'to do' and 'remember to' lists. Works beautifully. We keep dry erase markers and an eraser in the bathroom just for this. Of course, the boys usually use theirs for drawing instead of practical reasons.
Oh...I like your idea of looking back each year at what happened in your shop over the year. Planning on a '1st Annual' post at The Aerodrome Studio soon (been working on a bathroom remodel lately...haven't had a lot of time in the garage since Christmas).
Kev
Thanks M_P!
Good idea with the notes on the mirror. On movies and TV shows, I always see people writing on transparent chalkboards and wondered how well that would work - now I know with your comments on the mirror.
I don't necessarily have a set time when I update the task lists. I guess its mainly when I feel like I've actually accomplished something substantial or I'm getting ready to move on to the next big project. Bi-yearly would probably be about right though.
BTW, we're in need of a kitchen and bath remodel - not looking forward to that at all! Hopefully yours is going well.
Good idea with the notes on the mirror. On movies and TV shows, I always see people writing on transparent chalkboards and wondered how well that would work - now I know with your comments on the mirror.
I don't necessarily have a set time when I update the task lists. I guess its mainly when I feel like I've actually accomplished something substantial or I'm getting ready to move on to the next big project. Bi-yearly would probably be about right though.
BTW, we're in need of a kitchen and bath remodel - not looking forward to that at all! Hopefully yours is going well.
machine_punk
Well-known member
The problem is, "WOW, that tile looks great! I'd like something like that in the kitchen, and the..." (i.e. guess what I'm going to be putting in on every hard surface in the house soon).
This really wasn't too bad, once I got a solid sub-floor in there. I had to cut out a piece of sub-floor which was water damaged and there were no convenient joists for the edges of the new piece. It took longer to figure out WHAT to do than to do it.
Kev
This really wasn't too bad, once I got a solid sub-floor in there. I had to cut out a piece of sub-floor which was water damaged and there were no convenient joists for the edges of the new piece. It took longer to figure out WHAT to do than to do it.
Kev
Sounds like half of my projects!
(Although, there has been a lot of "doing" lately)
CUTTING RIBBED METAL SIDING (Part 1 of 2)…
There have been many threads about this in the general section over the years and during the last siding job, I decided to snap some pictures of the procedure so I could reference it next time it comes up again.
First of all, there are many ways to cut this siding, but I prefer to use some type of shearing method as recommended in the manufacturer’s installation manual. Here is an excerpt from it:
“A portable profile shear is especially recommended for across-the-profile cutting of metal panels. ABC also recommends the use of power shears, nibblers or hand snips that can follow the contour of the panel's profile. Never cut the exposed end of a metal panel with a metal or abrasive saw. This will melt the Galvalume® coating, causing premature rusting at the cut ridge.”
The original builder of my shop had this full width shear that worked a lot like the guillotine style paper shears:
Here’s the website: Dyna-Products
It would be nice to have one of these for the 90 degree cross-cuts, but they are pricy ($750) and you still need a method for cutting angles and such. So my tool of choice is this simple electric shears. I purchased this one for $30 several years ago and it has served me well, not only for cutting metal, but for plastics/vinyls too. It cuts out about a 1/4” strip of metal as it shears.
So on to the procedure…
Step 1 - Scribe a line to follow. Note the material has the inside face facing up so the colored side doesn’t get scuffed up from the shears. Put some blankets or cardboard on your sawhorses to protect the good side. This also reduces the noise coming from the vibrating sheet metal.
I always add some indication which side of the line the little metal strip will be cut out because I normally cut half way across and then jump to the other side to finish it off. There has been an occasion or two where my cuts were offset by 1/4" before I starting doing this and it really spoils your day.
Lastly, I scribe the line down into the valley of the ribs for a bit more guidance.
Step 2 - Cut through the first rib. Position the shears upside down and go as far as you can. Break out the scrap metal strip by wiggling it back and forth about 4 times so it will not be in the way for the next cut.
(Continued)
There have been many threads about this in the general section over the years and during the last siding job, I decided to snap some pictures of the procedure so I could reference it next time it comes up again.
First of all, there are many ways to cut this siding, but I prefer to use some type of shearing method as recommended in the manufacturer’s installation manual. Here is an excerpt from it:
“A portable profile shear is especially recommended for across-the-profile cutting of metal panels. ABC also recommends the use of power shears, nibblers or hand snips that can follow the contour of the panel's profile. Never cut the exposed end of a metal panel with a metal or abrasive saw. This will melt the Galvalume® coating, causing premature rusting at the cut ridge.”
The original builder of my shop had this full width shear that worked a lot like the guillotine style paper shears:
Here’s the website: Dyna-Products
It would be nice to have one of these for the 90 degree cross-cuts, but they are pricy ($750) and you still need a method for cutting angles and such. So my tool of choice is this simple electric shears. I purchased this one for $30 several years ago and it has served me well, not only for cutting metal, but for plastics/vinyls too. It cuts out about a 1/4” strip of metal as it shears.
So on to the procedure…
Step 1 - Scribe a line to follow. Note the material has the inside face facing up so the colored side doesn’t get scuffed up from the shears. Put some blankets or cardboard on your sawhorses to protect the good side. This also reduces the noise coming from the vibrating sheet metal.
I always add some indication which side of the line the little metal strip will be cut out because I normally cut half way across and then jump to the other side to finish it off. There has been an occasion or two where my cuts were offset by 1/4" before I starting doing this and it really spoils your day.
Lastly, I scribe the line down into the valley of the ribs for a bit more guidance.
Step 2 - Cut through the first rib. Position the shears upside down and go as far as you can. Break out the scrap metal strip by wiggling it back and forth about 4 times so it will not be in the way for the next cut.
(Continued)
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CUTTING RIBBED METAL SIDING (Part 2 of 2)…
Step 3 - Cut across the flat part. Force the jaws into the cut a bit to get them started. When going over the two small ribs, you may need to rock the shear head a bit to help it over them. Wrap the end of the cut partially into the large rib to assist with cutting it in the next step. Break out the curled-up metal strip.
Step 4 - Cut through the second rib. Again, you may have to force it a little to get it started depending on how much you wrapped the cut in the last step. Break out the strip.
Step 5 - Cut the second flat and third (middle) rib. This is a repeat of steps 3 and 4. You should end up with a cut halfway across looking like this:
Step 6 - Cut the second half of the sheet. At this point, you could continue cutting from the middle out to the far side, but I find it easier to cut from both sides and finish in the middle. Before finishing the last cut, it will look like this with both sides flopping down:
Here is another view with the cut-to-length main sheet, the 3” scrap piece, and all the little strips that were broken off along the way.
After doing it a few times, you will find it’s really quite easy and it will only take a minute or two for the whole process.
I'm no expert here - if you have any additional tips for working with this stuff, I'd love to hear them.
Step 3 - Cut across the flat part. Force the jaws into the cut a bit to get them started. When going over the two small ribs, you may need to rock the shear head a bit to help it over them. Wrap the end of the cut partially into the large rib to assist with cutting it in the next step. Break out the curled-up metal strip.
Step 4 - Cut through the second rib. Again, you may have to force it a little to get it started depending on how much you wrapped the cut in the last step. Break out the strip.
Step 5 - Cut the second flat and third (middle) rib. This is a repeat of steps 3 and 4. You should end up with a cut halfway across looking like this:
Step 6 - Cut the second half of the sheet. At this point, you could continue cutting from the middle out to the far side, but I find it easier to cut from both sides and finish in the middle. Before finishing the last cut, it will look like this with both sides flopping down:
Here is another view with the cut-to-length main sheet, the 3” scrap piece, and all the little strips that were broken off along the way.
After doing it a few times, you will find it’s really quite easy and it will only take a minute or two for the whole process.
I'm no expert here - if you have any additional tips for working with this stuff, I'd love to hear them.
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akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
Great write up on the types of cutters. Agreed on the high priced Dyna-Cut. I toyed areound with the air and electric nibblers and they have their pros and cons over the electric shears.
Good luck with the door chain relocation. I've done a few regular overhead door spring installs and removals. Slow and methodical is the key.
Great write up on the types of cutters. Agreed on the high priced Dyna-Cut. I toyed areound with the air and electric nibblers and they have their pros and cons over the electric shears.
Good luck with the door chain relocation. I've done a few regular overhead door spring installs and removals. Slow and methodical is the key.
SpeedinLemon
Well-known member
Hey ShopNut -- It's been a while and I was enjoying getting caught up on the Asylum today. So sorry to hear about Pekoe and the story of him waiting for you to get home almost brought out a man-tear. On the brighter side, the loft came out very nice...looks like lots of storage and room for a spider condo or two! Also glad to see the man lift working out well. With ceilings as tall as yours, I think you'll get much use from it. The new front fascia came out top notch as well and the place looks great. Congrats on another milestone....looking forward to many more!
Chris
Chris
SpeedinLemon - Nice of you to stop by. It's been a while and I was beginning to wonder if you had completely forgotten about us over here at the GJ, with that fancy pool and finished shop/partyroom taking all your attention.
Yes, I bet the spiders are as happy to see that storage loft finished as much as I am. Now I just need to beat them to taking up residency!
I kick myself for not buying a manlift sooner - what a valuable tool. And who knows, it might even have saved a bone from breaking
Anyways, thanks for the visit and kind words. Give us an update on your thread sometime - even if its just showing us how much you're enjoying the place. Posts like that give me something to look forward to and help keep me going!
Yes, I bet the spiders are as happy to see that storage loft finished as much as I am. Now I just need to beat them to taking up residency
! I kick myself for not buying a manlift sooner - what a valuable tool. And who knows, it might even have saved a bone from breaking
Anyways, thanks for the visit and kind words. Give us an update on your thread sometime - even if its just showing us how much you're enjoying the place. Posts like that give me something to look forward to and help keep me going!
A SNEAK PEEK AT WHAT IS PLANNED FOR THE DOOR DRUM COVERS…
This has been in my head for quite some time and I mentioned it briefly waaaaaay back here: Reply #513 (link), but it’s time to give you a few more details on the door drum covers.
Here is a quick sketch of what I plan to build. (Disregard the scaffold that is messing up the view - it’s hard to move that sucker to a place so it doesn’t get in an interior shot of this place.)
The red is the general outline of the wood framed box. White vinyl siding will continue down from the loft floor to enclose the framing. The box around the drums will be just large enough to house four recessed fluorescent fixtures (shown in green) below the drums. I didn’t install much lighting on the porch outside, so I’m hoping these fixtures will illuminate the porch nicely when I’m working with the doors open. The drums actually are located quite a bit above the door opening, so the lights will not reduce overhead clearance and it remains at 12’ for vehicles being driven in.
The center section will extend down further than the sides and will feature an access door (shown in blue). Door pull chains will exit from the bottom of it as well as an air hose and power cord spooling off of hidden reels. My future power openers for the doors (if I ever finish them) will also be hidden inside.
As with the rest of the interior, anything above 10’ high gets covered in white vinyl, while walls below get covered in the aluminum tileboard. The bottom of this center cabinet defines the division line between vinyl and tileboard. Light switches and controls for the power clerestory windows will be located in the wall between the doors below.
I intend to keep the entire structure lightweight and easy to remove should servicing of the door drums ever be needed. I might even wire the lights with simple extension cords plugged into outlets so their removal will be quicker/easier.
As always, comments are welcomed from the GJ community.
This has been in my head for quite some time and I mentioned it briefly waaaaaay back here: Reply #513 (link), but it’s time to give you a few more details on the door drum covers.
Here is a quick sketch of what I plan to build. (Disregard the scaffold that is messing up the view - it’s hard to move that sucker to a place so it doesn’t get in an interior shot of this place.)
The red is the general outline of the wood framed box. White vinyl siding will continue down from the loft floor to enclose the framing. The box around the drums will be just large enough to house four recessed fluorescent fixtures (shown in green) below the drums. I didn’t install much lighting on the porch outside, so I’m hoping these fixtures will illuminate the porch nicely when I’m working with the doors open. The drums actually are located quite a bit above the door opening, so the lights will not reduce overhead clearance and it remains at 12’ for vehicles being driven in.
The center section will extend down further than the sides and will feature an access door (shown in blue). Door pull chains will exit from the bottom of it as well as an air hose and power cord spooling off of hidden reels. My future power openers for the doors (if I ever finish them
) will also be hidden inside.As with the rest of the interior, anything above 10’ high gets covered in white vinyl, while walls below get covered in the aluminum tileboard. The bottom of this center cabinet defines the division line between vinyl and tileboard. Light switches and controls for the power clerestory windows will be located in the wall between the doors below.
I intend to keep the entire structure lightweight and easy to remove should servicing of the door drums ever be needed. I might even wire the lights with simple extension cords plugged into outlets so their removal will be quicker/easier.
As always, comments are welcomed from the GJ community.
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"As always, comments are welcomed from the GJ community. "
Well now, since you asked for it, I'll make a 'suggestion' and a comment. The comment is that the DDT (Door Drum Transformation) is going to add that special Shopnut finishing touch which makes us think, 'Damn, that boy is OCD, but in a real good way!'. lol
The 'suggestion' has to do with the DDT acronym in its original meaning (dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane); do you have a stockpile of 50 gallon drums to kill all the critters that are going to be attracted by the open doors and those four fluorescent lights? I know DDT was a pretty good pesticide, but you're going to need an oil tanker of the stuff if you light up the Asylum like Reno during 'Hot August Nights'! So, in 'light' (pun intended) of your intention to attract the entire insect population of Florida to drop into the Asylum Resort and Death Spa, I 'suggest' you add this J.A.W.I.F.O. to the DDT. Build it a bit deeper to house not only the lights and the DD, but also a second roll-up device(s). This/these shaft(s) would store the small mesh screen fabric which would be deployed when the doors are open. Think of it (them) as the Asylum-sized screen doors to keep the millions of bugs attracted to the lights outside your space and not inside where they might just take up residence.
And while you're designing the C.R.U.D.E. (Controlled Roll-Up Door Electronics) mechanism, you might as well design the same for the B.I.T.C.H. (Bug Invasion Thwarting Curtain Housing). The control box would then be named 'C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H.'!
Well now, since you asked for it, I'll make a 'suggestion' and a comment. The comment is that the DDT (Door Drum Transformation) is going to add that special Shopnut finishing touch which makes us think, 'Damn, that boy is OCD, but in a real good way!'. lol
The 'suggestion' has to do with the DDT acronym in its original meaning (dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane); do you have a stockpile of 50 gallon drums to kill all the critters that are going to be attracted by the open doors and those four fluorescent lights? I know DDT was a pretty good pesticide, but you're going to need an oil tanker of the stuff if you light up the Asylum like Reno during 'Hot August Nights'! So, in 'light' (pun intended) of your intention to attract the entire insect population of Florida to drop into the Asylum Resort and Death Spa, I 'suggest' you add this J.A.W.I.F.O. to the DDT. Build it a bit deeper to house not only the lights and the DD, but also a second roll-up device(s). This/these shaft(s) would store the small mesh screen fabric which would be deployed when the doors are open. Think of it (them) as the Asylum-sized screen doors to keep the millions of bugs attracted to the lights outside your space and not inside where they might just take up residence.
And while you're designing the C.R.U.D.E. (Controlled Roll-Up Door Electronics) mechanism, you might as well design the same for the B.I.T.C.H. (Bug Invasion Thwarting Curtain Housing). The control box would then be named 'C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H.'! Wingnut65
Well-known member
Good thinking, O. Roll up screen may be an idea, but then again, our bug are big enough and come around so often, that we sometimes name them... Although that screen idea is sounding pretty good.
My first thought on throwing light outside is to add a downlight between the fluorescents on a separate switch. When the doors are closed, they are wall wash lights on the doors. When open, they can light part of the patio.
Keep up the good work, shopnut!
My first thought on throwing light outside is to add a downlight between the fluorescents on a separate switch. When the doors are closed, they are wall wash lights on the doors. When open, they can light part of the patio.
Keep up the good work, shopnut!
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If bugs turn out to be a problem, yellow T8 bulbs are available.
akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
The addition to enclose the door roles will look nice and clean. A great location for some art work or maybe a large video screen for movies or what ever.
Are you going to install some lighting on the bottom of the box to light up the door entry?
The addition to enclose the door roles will look nice and clean. A great location for some art work or maybe a large video screen for movies or what ever.
Are you going to install some lighting on the bottom of the box to light up the door entry?
Omphaloskeptic - Yes, I asked for it, but it usually ends up for the best . And it looks like I have some more acronyms to add to the Index!
Somewhere waaaaaaay back in this thread, someone suggested that I add screens for the front doors (I apologize to the person for not giving them credit here). I think the short discussion revolved around the commercially available ones that you Velcro to the door jambs. Great idea, but I kind of lost sight of it.
Your idea of a roll-up version really gets the "gears turning". I picture some of my surplus 110VAC hospital bed gearmotors turning a long shaft, winding up strips of screen material. It wouldn't take much room at all. Nice! I still want to be able to walk through it so that's why I'm thinking a few strips of screen instead of one big solid sheet. I'm also thinking weights at the bottom to keep it from flapping in the breeze. It may not stop them all, but it might do a good job at slowing them down. Of course, when it's time to call it a night, it will be "lights out" maybe 5 minutes ahead of time, to let the bugs dissipate before closing the metal door.
I think it's full steam ahead on the C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H.!
Wingnut65 - I have a couple of those bugs trained to sit and speak! (I'm having a heck of a time potty training them though 
)
Good idea on the directional lights - I hadn't thought about that. Everything I put outside gets covered with dust and cobwebs, and is susceptible to getting clobbered with a tree limb or two. Therefore, I like the idea of having stuff inside that can serve functions outside as well.
Here's a shot at night with the doors open during my recent insulating job (more to come on that shortly).
It's actual pretty bright out there already with the doors open, even before adding the extra 4 lights. (I think it has something to do with my surgery room-like lighting inside). When I get a chance, I'm going to hang a light up there temporarily to see what the porch looks like and if it will be sufficient. I have some surplus can lights that I can installed if I need more and they can be aimed out on the porch.
Bob Heine - Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know they were available and I need to check them out because they could solve several problems here and at the city house.
akdiesel - Those drum covers will be begging for something. It's killing me not using the space up there for storing something, but maybe artwork is the answer to take my mind off the wasted space! Off to eBay I go...
Four light fixtures will be going in to help illuminate that end of the shop and they will be on their own switched circuit. The green lines in the previous sketch were my very crude attempt at showing them.
. And it looks like I have some more acronyms to add to the Index!Somewhere waaaaaaay back in this thread, someone suggested that I add screens for the front doors (I apologize to the person for not giving them credit here). I think the short discussion revolved around the commercially available ones that you Velcro to the door jambs. Great idea, but I kind of lost sight of it.
Your idea of a roll-up version really gets the "gears turning". I picture some of my surplus 110VAC hospital bed gearmotors turning a long shaft, winding up strips of screen material. It wouldn't take much room at all. Nice! I still want to be able to walk through it so that's why I'm thinking a few strips of screen instead of one big solid sheet. I'm also thinking weights at the bottom to keep it from flapping in the breeze. It may not stop them all, but it might do a good job at slowing them down. Of course, when it's time to call it a night, it will be "lights out" maybe 5 minutes ahead of time, to let the bugs dissipate before closing the metal door.
I think it's full steam ahead on the C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H.!
Wingnut65 - I have a couple of those bugs trained to sit and speak
! (I'm having a heck of a time potty training them though )Good idea on the directional lights - I hadn't thought about that. Everything I put outside gets covered with dust and cobwebs, and is susceptible to getting clobbered with a tree limb or two. Therefore, I like the idea of having stuff inside that can serve functions outside as well.
Here's a shot at night with the doors open during my recent insulating job (more to come on that shortly).
It's actual pretty bright out there already with the doors open, even before adding the extra 4 lights. (I think it has something to do with my surgery room-like lighting inside
). When I get a chance, I'm going to hang a light up there temporarily to see what the porch looks like and if it will be sufficient. I have some surplus can lights that I can installed if I need more and they can be aimed out on the porch.Bob Heine - Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know they were available and I need to check them out because they could solve several problems here and at the city house.
akdiesel - Those drum covers will be begging for something. It's killing me not using the space up there for storing something, but maybe artwork is the answer to take my mind off the wasted space! Off to eBay I go...
Four light fixtures will be going in to help illuminate that end of the shop and they will be on their own switched circuit. The green lines in the previous sketch were my very crude attempt at showing them.
ELECTRICAL UPDATES - THE WEST WALL GETS A DEDICATED 20A CIRCUIT…
(Note: I hesitated to show any of these pictures because the area between the main doors is still such an eyesore with wires running every which way. But it is all part of the process so pardon my mess!)
I had a temporary outlet installed up near the front loft powering things on the front wall, but it was ripped out weeks ago. So it was time to switch over to the real circuit that will be supplying power to the “West Wall”. A breaker in the main panel was added months ago, along with new metal clad wires routing from the back to the front of the shop. All I did now was add a quad outlet at the end of it and this should suffice for a few months.
It’s good to have power back on this wall, even though it is just a temporary outlet position. The cable leading to the outlet box was left extra long so I can move it around as I finish this wall. Eventually, there will be a junction box here that feeds 4 or 5 outlets on the front wall.
I was finally able to flip that breaker for the West Wall on in the main panel. It is the one with the blue tape pointing at it on the right.
ELECTRICAL UPDATES - A TEMPORARY CORD REEL GOES UP…
Eventually, I will mount one of my big Appleton RL series reels up in the door drum box to service the area around the big doors. But with an outlet now nearby, I decided it was worth another 30 minutes to hang up this smaller reel on the post to mainly charge the manlift. The reel was just collecting dust anyway.
Rather than lifting the heavy reel up there and using it to mark the holes, I used the swivel bracket instead. I stopped mid-swing and snapped a picture with it hanging on the center punch.
Then I drilled some pilot holes and ran the lags screws in. Having everything pre-drilled and threaded makes installing some heavy item a bit easier.
Screws were removed and the reel then went up.
The fairlead was repositioned for this application and I was in business.
They call it Heavy Duty even though it seems like one of Appleton’s budget-minded reels compared to the monster RL series I bought in the past. Still, I’m pretty impressed with it since it is well built and has nice features like the spring cushion on the cord bumper. My opinion changed, however, when I plugged it in for the first time - the test light I had plugged into the cord was not illuminating. It was purchased from feebay as used and I had never tried it. So I fiddled with it for a while and occasionally the light would flicker on. My first hunch was that there was a problem with the slip rings. But then I noticed the light consistently came on when the cord was reeled out and latched in position.
Then it hit me - I remembered this was actually a drop light reel and it made perfect sense. There is a switch in the ratchet mechanism. Pull the cord out, the work light comes on; retract it, and the light goes off automatically. Very clever! I’m just glad I didn’t start tearing it apart looking for a non-existent problem. I will need to find a special location to mount this permanently someday and use it as intended.
Here’s a spec sheet I found verifying the switch.
Okay, it’s time to take this reel for a spin.
(Note: I hesitated to show any of these pictures because the area between the main doors is still such an eyesore with wires running every which way. But it is all part of the process so pardon my mess!)
I had a temporary outlet installed up near the front loft powering things on the front wall, but it was ripped out weeks ago. So it was time to switch over to the real circuit that will be supplying power to the “West Wall”. A breaker in the main panel was added months ago, along with new metal clad wires routing from the back to the front of the shop. All I did now was add a quad outlet at the end of it and this should suffice for a few months.
It’s good to have power back on this wall, even though it is just a temporary outlet position. The cable leading to the outlet box was left extra long so I can move it around as I finish this wall. Eventually, there will be a junction box here that feeds 4 or 5 outlets on the front wall.
I was finally able to flip that breaker for the West Wall on in the main panel. It is the one with the blue tape pointing at it on the right.
ELECTRICAL UPDATES - A TEMPORARY CORD REEL GOES UP…
Eventually, I will mount one of my big Appleton RL series reels up in the door drum box to service the area around the big doors. But with an outlet now nearby, I decided it was worth another 30 minutes to hang up this smaller reel on the post to mainly charge the manlift. The reel was just collecting dust anyway.
Rather than lifting the heavy reel up there and using it to mark the holes, I used the swivel bracket instead. I stopped mid-swing and snapped a picture with it hanging on the center punch.
Then I drilled some pilot holes and ran the lags screws in. Having everything pre-drilled and threaded makes installing some heavy item a bit easier.
Screws were removed and the reel then went up.
The fairlead was repositioned for this application and I was in business.
They call it Heavy Duty even though it seems like one of Appleton’s budget-minded reels compared to the monster RL series I bought in the past. Still, I’m pretty impressed with it since it is well built and has nice features like the spring cushion on the cord bumper. My opinion changed, however, when I plugged it in for the first time - the test light I had plugged into the cord was not illuminating
. It was purchased from feebay as used and I had never tried it. So I fiddled with it for a while and occasionally the light would flicker on. My first hunch was that there was a problem with the slip rings. But then I noticed the light consistently came on when the cord was reeled out and latched in position. Then it hit me - I remembered this was actually a drop light reel and it made perfect sense. There is a switch in the ratchet mechanism. Pull the cord out, the work light comes on; retract it, and the light goes off automatically. Very clever! I’m just glad I didn’t start tearing it apart looking for a non-existent problem. I will need to find a special location to mount this permanently someday and use it as intended.
Here’s a spec sheet I found verifying the switch.
Okay, it’s time to take this reel for a spin
.
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
Wow I never thought anything in your shop would look like that mess !!!!!!!........LMAO... j/k
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Shopnut, glad to hear those "gears turning" for the C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H.; one more item for the never-ending To-Do list. We keep coming up with 'suggestions' because your loyal fans here at GJ don't ever want this thread to end!
And on that note, yet another 'suggestion' offering....
Since you have the 'West Wall' still open, might I 'suggest' adding at least one more circuit to that pole? This line will be 220 VAC for the 'Industrial Strength Bug Zapper' which will proudly hang between the doors from your 'porch' overhang. Remember, the best Defense is a strong Offense! The B.I.T.C.H. will be your Defensive line and the I.S.B.Z. will be the strong Offensive attack weapon. Of course, this being the Asylum, the 220 VAC outlet located on the 'West Wall' would be very useful for powering the MIG or TIG welder(s) while working outside on the 'porch'. You would want to do this 'hot work' outside so that the epoxy finished floor inside the Asylum would not suffer any damage. As I said above, we don't want to see your thread come to an end, so I'm just 'suggesting' yet another item for the 'To-Do' list.
J.A.W.I.F.O.
And on that note, yet another 'suggestion' offering....
Since you have the 'West Wall' still open, might I 'suggest' adding at least one more circuit to that pole? This line will be 220 VAC for the 'Industrial Strength Bug Zapper' which will proudly hang between the doors from your 'porch' overhang. Remember, the best Defense is a strong Offense! The B.I.T.C.H. will be your Defensive line and the I.S.B.Z. will be the strong Offensive attack weapon. Of course, this being the Asylum, the 220 VAC outlet located on the 'West Wall' would be very useful for powering the MIG or TIG welder(s) while working outside on the 'porch'. You would want to do this 'hot work' outside so that the epoxy finished floor inside the Asylum would not suffer any damage. As I said above, we don't want to see your thread come to an end, so I'm just 'suggesting' yet another item for the 'To-Do' list.
J.A.W.I.F.O.
Vernmotor - I've got a couple corners of the shop I haven't cleaned in years! I keep telling myself I will do a thorough cleaning when this place is done, but that day never seems to come.
Omphaloskeptic - Sometimes I wonder if I really want this place done.
As you might recall, I added that extra "Whatever" circuit out on the porch ceiling (see Reply #1562). Although it wasn't intended for 220V, its use for powering an I.S.B.Z. is pretty darn intriguing. That's another good one - Thanks!
Not to stray from the C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H. idea too much, but I was walking out in our shop at work today and another idea hit me. Literally - right on the top of the head! We have air curtains at the big doors that work like this.
My first thought when I got blasted was "Boy, that would make a nice fan to move air in the Asylum and they just might tuck up there in the gap between the door drums and the loft floor". They would blow air to the back of the shop where my main work area will be. I have other circulating fans, but those air curtains can REALLY move some air. But then after thinking about is awhile, I thought they might be good at keeping bugs out (Of course they would have to be pointed down to work for that function).
Now if I had some that could be rotated on command, they could be pointed down to keep the bugs out at that key time of the evening (dusk) when the bugs are really swarming. During the heat of the day, they could be directed at my work area keeping me cool. And if I ever get around to air conditioning the place, they will keep the cool air in.
I guess I need to make a decision soon so I can getting building that DDT (Door Drum Transformation).
Regarding the 220V circuits...
I have 3 dedicated high voltage circuits currently hooked up in the shop. One for the car lift, one for the air compressor, and one for the welder. The car lift outlet is located on the wall adjacent to the apartment, where the first lift will go. The air compressor outlet is under the stairs which will need to be rerouted someday because I changed my mind on its location when I built the upstairs office.
The welder outlet is directly below the main electrical panel because I didn't have enough foresight to tell the builder exactly where to put it back then. I do have a heavy gauge 50ft RV extension cord that will reach from either of those outlets to anywhere in the shop. I always thought my welding area would end up back by the 8ft door in the back of the shop and it would be easy to run in-wall wiring over to there at this point. Looking back now, 220V up there by the big doors would be nice too and if need be, I could route wiring up there as well. I guess with the the wire-ways I built into this place, mods are pretty easy as my needs change (like when I get that Bridgeport!).
Omphaloskeptic - Sometimes I wonder if I really want this place done
. As you might recall, I added that extra "Whatever" circuit out on the porch ceiling (see Reply #1562). Although it wasn't intended for 220V, its use for powering an I.S.B.Z. is pretty darn intriguing. That's another good one - Thanks!
Not to stray from the C.R.U.D.E. B.I.T.C.H. idea too much, but I was walking out in our shop at work today and another idea hit me. Literally - right on the top of the head! We have air curtains at the big doors that work like this.
My first thought when I got blasted was "Boy, that would make a nice fan to move air in the Asylum and they just might tuck up there in the gap between the door drums and the loft floor". They would blow air to the back of the shop where my main work area will be. I have other circulating fans, but those air curtains can REALLY move some air. But then after thinking about is awhile, I thought they might be good at keeping bugs out (Of course they would have to be pointed down to work for that function).
Now if I had some that could be rotated on command, they could be pointed down to keep the bugs out at that key time of the evening (dusk) when the bugs are really swarming. During the heat of the day, they could be directed at my work area keeping me cool. And if I ever get around to air conditioning the place, they will keep the cool air in.
I guess I need to make a decision soon so I can getting building that DDT (Door Drum Transformation).
Regarding the 220V circuits...
I have 3 dedicated high voltage circuits currently hooked up in the shop. One for the car lift, one for the air compressor, and one for the welder. The car lift outlet is located on the wall adjacent to the apartment, where the first lift will go. The air compressor outlet is under the stairs which will need to be rerouted someday because I changed my mind on its location when I built the upstairs office.
The welder outlet is directly below the main electrical panel because I didn't have enough foresight to tell the builder exactly where to put it back then. I do have a heavy gauge 50ft RV extension cord that will reach from either of those outlets to anywhere in the shop. I always thought my welding area would end up back by the 8ft door in the back of the shop and it would be easy to run in-wall wiring over to there at this point. Looking back now, 220V up there by the big doors would be nice too and if need be, I could route wiring up there as well. I guess with the the wire-ways I built into this place, mods are pretty easy as my needs change (like when I get that Bridgeport!
).Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Shopnut, you're very welcome!
Looks like you have built a lot of versatility into the Asylum from the start; the '6-P' rule reigns supreme! lol
Another shameless plug for 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' from this quarter - wouldn't it be swell (as opposed to 'sweltering') to have remote operable windows wrapping the octagon (?) shaped cupola so that a very large ceiling fan could **** upwards and expel all that steamy hot Florida air through the roof while a refreshing tropical breeze comes through the B.I.T.C.H.? Just sayin'....
Funny aside.... A couple of weeks ago, I was wandering the aisles of my local ACE Hardware store and saw a couple of guys on a high scaffold in the center of the store installing some heavy duty bracketry and electrical conduit. This past weekend I stopped in again and noticed a REALLY LARGE CEILING FAN had been installed. On one of the blades was the name of the manufacturer in equally large block letters which made me laugh right out loud when I looked up and saw the name; here's their website -
Looks like you have built a lot of versatility into the Asylum from the start; the '6-P' rule reigns supreme! lol
Another shameless plug for 'The C.U.P.O.L.A.' from this quarter - wouldn't it be swell (as opposed to 'sweltering') to have remote operable windows wrapping the octagon (?) shaped cupola so that a very large ceiling fan could **** upwards and expel all that steamy hot Florida air through the roof while a refreshing tropical breeze comes through the B.I.T.C.H.? Just sayin'....
Funny aside.... A couple of weeks ago, I was wandering the aisles of my local ACE Hardware store and saw a couple of guys on a high scaffold in the center of the store installing some heavy duty bracketry and electrical conduit. This past weekend I stopped in again and noticed a REALLY LARGE CEILING FAN had been installed. On one of the blades was the name of the manufacturer in equally large block letters which made me laugh right out loud when I looked up and saw the name; here's their website -
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Ompha - Looks like they didn't plan for enough P's in the 6-P adage - it has now grown to 7-P (somewhat ironic don't you think?) Wiki 6-P
The BAF company sure has made a name for themselves over the years. Its one you don't forget. I hadn't checked out their website for a while and I see they have really expanded their offerings lately. And some 24 feet in diameter - WOW!
Although the vertical flow of the CUPOLA/***** combo would most certainly out perform the horizontal flow on my existing exhaust fan/OVLCM/clerestory window system, we will have to wait a while for the CUPOLA to materialize. But hanging a ceiling fan on the main center rafter could be a simple endeavor. Now I wish I would have ran 3 cables up there instead of just 2. And I just buttoned up that ceiling. Oh well, I guess I could give up one of the light circuits to power the fan instead (but I hate compromising).
The BAF company sure has made a name for themselves over the years. Its one you don't forget. I hadn't checked out their website for a while and I see they have really expanded their offerings lately. And some 24 feet in diameter - WOW!
Although the vertical flow of the CUPOLA/***** combo would most certainly out perform the horizontal flow on my existing exhaust fan/OVLCM/clerestory window system, we will have to wait a while for the CUPOLA to materialize. But hanging a ceiling fan on the main center rafter could be a simple endeavor. Now I wish I would have ran 3 cables up there instead of just 2. And I just buttoned up that ceiling
. Oh well, I guess I could give up one of the light circuits to power the fan instead (but I hate compromising).akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
The air curtain looks like a great choice for bugs and cooling. We have a mosquito problem up here but nature and her wind keep them at bay but these may work for a air quality control after certain jobs.
I cant wait for the train design. I have to admit I may try the same thing. My younger son would jump on the idea as well.
The air curtain looks like a great choice for bugs and cooling. We have a mosquito problem up here but nature and her wind keep them at bay but these may work for a air quality control after certain jobs.
I cant wait for the train design. I have to admit I may try the same thing. My younger son would jump on the idea as well.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"But hanging a ceiling fan on the main center rafter could be a simple endeavor."
Well Shopnut, now that you have that handy, dandy man lift, I'm quite sure you could pop open some panels, run the circuit, close it up, and be back on Mother Earth before your beer lost it's chill. Of course, you could always opt for a conduit run on the beam. Just think, a BIGASSFAN could be the 'centerpiece' of the Asylum and highly FUNctional as well; what a great shop addition it would be!
I just wonder if they make 'bug swatter fan blade attachments'? You know, for those pesky flying critters that run the gauntlet and actually make it past the I.S.B.Z. and the B.I.T.C.H. into the shop's 'no Fly zone'. 
Hey, don't forget, as Red Green stated often - "I'm pulling for you!".
Well Shopnut, now that you have that handy, dandy man lift, I'm quite sure you could pop open some panels, run the circuit, close it up, and be back on Mother Earth before your beer lost it's chill. Of course, you could always opt for a conduit run on the beam. Just think, a BIGASSFAN could be the 'centerpiece' of the Asylum and highly FUNctional as well; what a great shop addition it would be!
I just wonder if they make 'bug swatter fan blade attachments'? You know, for those pesky flying critters that run the gauntlet and actually make it past the I.S.B.Z. and the B.I.T.C.H. into the shop's 'no Fly zone'. Hey, don't forget, as Red Green stated often - "I'm pulling for you!".
akdiesel - I'm partial to the HO gauge trains (1/87 scale), but if you're just getting into it and going to mount it up high, I might suggest you go with something bigger like the O gauge series. It would be a great father/son project.
Omphaloskeptic - Well after a little thought, it's "curtains" for the BAF ceiling fan idea on the rafter. The front chain hoist would not play well with the spinning blades, I'm afraid.
Omphaloskeptic - Well after a little thought, it's "curtains" for the BAF ceiling fan idea on the rafter. The front chain hoist would not play well with the spinning blades, I'm afraid
.INSULATING ABOVE DOORS…
Up until now, the Asylum had a vulnerable point above the doors and only a thin sheet of insulation was keeping critters out. Before the siding could go on, however, I needed to install some extra insulation behind there. Here’s what it looked like before I started.
I peeled back the sheet insulation and rolled it up out of the way.
A close-up shot of the reinforced truss beam spanning over the door opening.
Insulation now in.
I was using all the little bits left over from previous jobs and had to tape some batts together when the picking got slim. But it was nice not having to break into a fresh bag for this small job.
Okay, now it’s ready for siding!
ELECTRICAL UPDATES - LINE ROUTED FOR YARD LIGHTS…
Before I seal up everything on the porch ceiling, I decided to run a metal clad cable from the lumber loft across to the other side of the building. Switched power originates in this loft and if I ever add some yard lights out front, I will want one fixture on each side of the building.
Now I’m ready to add some more metal siding.
Up until now, the Asylum had a vulnerable point above the doors and only a thin sheet of insulation was keeping critters out. Before the siding could go on, however, I needed to install some extra insulation behind there. Here’s what it looked like before I started.
I peeled back the sheet insulation and rolled it up out of the way.
A close-up shot of the reinforced truss beam spanning over the door opening.
Insulation now in.
I was using all the little bits left over from previous jobs and had to tape some batts together when the picking got slim. But it was nice not having to break into a fresh bag for this small job.
Okay, now it’s ready for siding!
ELECTRICAL UPDATES - LINE ROUTED FOR YARD LIGHTS…
Before I seal up everything on the porch ceiling, I decided to run a metal clad cable from the lumber loft across to the other side of the building. Switched power originates in this loft and if I ever add some yard lights out front, I will want one fixture on each side of the building.
Now I’m ready to add some more metal siding.
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INSTALLING SIDING ABOVE DOORS…
The siding starts to go on.
Half way there.
And all the way across.
Some overall shots of the finished wall.
I still have to install more siding over the black tar paper above the lumber loft in this picture. Arrow points to some tan painting I had to do in preparation for that job. Can't have any raw wood showing, you know, especially with the loft doors closed.
The siding starts to go on.
Half way there.
And all the way across.
Some overall shots of the finished wall.
I still have to install more siding over the black tar paper above the lumber loft in this picture. Arrow points to some tan painting I had to do in preparation for that job. Can't have any raw wood showing, you know, especially with the loft doors closed.
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"Well after a little thought, it's "curtains" for the BAF ceiling fan idea on the rafter. The front chain hoist would not play well with the spinning blades, I'm afraid"
Aw, shoot Shopnut, ain't that a kick in the BAF? Another J.A.W.I.F.O. gets shot down!
Aw, shoot Shopnut, ain't that a kick in the BAF? Another J.A.W.I.F.O. gets shot down!
Aw, shoot Shopnut, ain't that a kick in the BAF? Another J.A.W.I.F.O. gets shot down!
LOL. No worries O, that BAF ventilated C.U.P.O.L.A. idea is still clunking around in the back of my head.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
e-tek
Well-known member
Shopnut - your attention to detail always amazes and inspires me. Did you say you where retired? You sure get a lot done.
Omphaloskeptic - Just call me "Abby Normal"
e-tek - Thanks. I have a long way to go until retirement and I'm still working fulltime. But there's really no need to rush it because I enjoy my job and will probably do some side jobs well into retirement just to stay sharp on the technical stuff. Plus while I'm sitting at work these days, I get to dream up new things for this place.
On average, I manage to squeeze in maybe 12-15 hours a week to hammer away on this place unless I'm out of town. And when I'm working on the Asylum, I push it pretty hard (too hard sometimes!). Last December was a better-than-average month, however, since I took a lot of time off from work. I was loving it!
e-tek - Thanks. I have a long way to go until retirement and I'm still working fulltime. But there's really no need to rush it because I enjoy my job and will probably do some side jobs well into retirement just to stay sharp on the technical stuff. Plus while I'm sitting at work these days, I get to dream up new things for this place
. On average, I manage to squeeze in maybe 12-15 hours a week to hammer away on this place unless I'm out of town. And when I'm working on the Asylum, I push it pretty hard (too hard sometimes!). Last December was a better-than-average month, however, since I took a lot of time off from work. I was loving it!
AN ACCESS DOOR FOR THE DOOR DRUM COVERS…
I have 3 doors to choose from for the drum cover access point. The one shown is the most likely candidate and it is just hanging up there with some wire to see what it will look like. It is the same type of aluminum door as the ones flanking my main electrical panel at the rear of the shop. The good thing is, it’s already painted white so it’s ready to hang as soon as there’s framework to hang it on.
While I was up there messing around, I snapped a picture of the torsion spring inside the door drum. The door was closed and you can see how much tension is on it. That probably something I don’t want to mess with while moving the door chain hoist from one side to the other.
I’M GOING TO SQUEEZE IN ONE MORE STORAGE LOFT FOR SYMMETRY…
While I ponder on exactly what the door covers will house (CRUDE *****, air curtains, or the like), I decided to build another loft over the apartment porch to match the lumber loft on the north side. It should be pretty quick and easy since it will be a repeat of the first. Here are old pictures of both sides for comparison.
On porch, looking north:
On porch, looking south:
I just couldn’t leave this one last spot unfinished out there, now could I?
I have 3 doors to choose from for the drum cover access point. The one shown is the most likely candidate and it is just hanging up there with some wire to see what it will look like. It is the same type of aluminum door as the ones flanking my main electrical panel at the rear of the shop. The good thing is, it’s already painted white so it’s ready to hang as soon as there’s framework to hang it on.
While I was up there messing around, I snapped a picture of the torsion spring inside the door drum. The door was closed and you can see how much tension is on it. That probably something I don’t want to mess with while moving the door chain hoist from one side to the other.
I’M GOING TO SQUEEZE IN ONE MORE STORAGE LOFT FOR SYMMETRY…
While I ponder on exactly what the door covers will house (CRUDE *****, air curtains, or the like), I decided to build another loft over the apartment porch to match the lumber loft on the north side. It should be pretty quick and easy since it will be a repeat of the first. Here are old pictures of both sides for comparison.
On porch, looking north:
On porch, looking south:
I just couldn’t leave this one last spot unfinished out there, now could I?
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Shopnut (aka A.B.Normal) lol, in looking at the exterior shot of the Asylum, another J.A.W.I.F.O. came to me. 
I'm still rooting for the CRUDE *****, but since you are going to be out there on the porch constructing 'LOFT #3' I'm going to 'suggest' a rather large expansion of the ***** idea. Convert your entire front porch into an atrium! Actually, in the north (Land of the Damn Yankee), they call it a 'three-season porch'. Using your support posts and two ******* at the outside edge of the porch (one big one in front of the two main roll-ups, one smaller one for the other smaller roll-up) enclose the whole enchilada with screens on frames. The apartment would get its own 'French' screen door. My thought is that you would gain an immense amount of bug-free space by enclosing the entire porch/veranda for working outside of the shop, entertaining guests spilling out of the apartment, or lounging with Mrs. Shopnut on those quiet summer evenings while she serenades you with one of her guitars while you imbibe a refreshing Mint Julep; all experienced without the need to arm yourselves with 'Off', 'Raid', or 'Jungle Juice'! It would require a square mile or two of screen material but think of the additional square footage you pick up for both the shop and the apartment. Now, you could use fixed screen/frames on the periphery OR you could go with a CRAZY ***** approach and mechanize the entire porch auto roll sections (Band of *******). That way, when you're away from the Asylum, you don't have to worry about hurricane damaged screens.
J.A.W.I.F.O.
P.S. - If you go with the CRAZY *****, you'll have no need of the I.S.B.Z., so you could hang one (or two, or three) Casablanca style fans in the A.A.A. (Asylum Atrium Annex) for that authentic 'Southern Charm' touch!
I'm still rooting for the CRUDE *****, but since you are going to be out there on the porch constructing 'LOFT #3' I'm going to 'suggest' a rather large expansion of the ***** idea. Convert your entire front porch into an atrium! Actually, in the north (Land of the Damn Yankee), they call it a 'three-season porch'. Using your support posts and two ******* at the outside edge of the porch (one big one in front of the two main roll-ups, one smaller one for the other smaller roll-up) enclose the whole enchilada with screens on frames. The apartment would get its own 'French' screen door. My thought is that you would gain an immense amount of bug-free space by enclosing the entire porch/veranda for working outside of the shop, entertaining guests spilling out of the apartment, or lounging with Mrs. Shopnut on those quiet summer evenings while she serenades you with one of her guitars while you imbibe a refreshing Mint Julep; all experienced without the need to arm yourselves with 'Off', 'Raid', or 'Jungle Juice'! It would require a square mile or two of screen material but think of the additional square footage you pick up for both the shop and the apartment. Now, you could use fixed screen/frames on the periphery OR you could go with a CRAZY ***** approach and mechanize the entire porch auto roll sections (Band of *******). That way, when you're away from the Asylum, you don't have to worry about hurricane damaged screens.
J.A.W.I.F.O.
P.S. - If you go with the CRAZY *****, you'll have no need of the I.S.B.Z., so you could hang one (or two, or three) Casablanca style fans in the A.A.A. (Asylum Atrium Annex) for that authentic 'Southern Charm' touch!
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