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The VISES of Garage Journal

autopts

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Jul 4, 2009
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2,268
After some shots of Kroil and an extended period of cussing and hitting, the vise broke free.:rocker:


I can't believe how clean this thing is, aside from the rust due to the previous owner being a mermaid, but it has almost no damage anywhere.

The jaws don't have a single flattened tooth and the anvil surface is dent free. Some might show up when its completely stripped but that's it. Not too bad for a vise made in 1991

People like you make me sick..I spend 24/7 looking for these and they seem to float down from the sky into your lap! That's ok, I'm charging up my space magnet and the 1st day you leave a door open I'll snag em!
 
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littletoes

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Nov 9, 2010
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NE Washington
Guys-Can anyone tell me if this is a Wilton, or not??

0108131810_zps82ab5653.jpg


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/LitoD/0108131811_zps6a1bfe00.jpg[/IMG


Sorry about the size, I took these with my cell phone, and I can't re-size without the wife. Built the stand to have one of my vises a bit more 'mobil'...but I should have made the base a bit heavier.
 

Provincial

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littletoes, yes, you have a Wilton. It is the cheaper, "retail" version, designed for light duty. I have a 3.5" version that came from the workshop at the family furniture store. They compare favorably to the Columbian retail vises like the ones sold by Craftsman in the 1970's.
 

littletoes

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NE Washington
Thanks Provincial!

This is least used vise in my shop, I've a Snappy on a bench (made by Wilton), a big bullet Wilton on the end of a bench, and a little one in the house-downstairs where the Wife doesn't notice it much...:rolleyes:
 

Catalyze

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Feb 7, 2011
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New Mexico
Brax - way cool Reed my fellow vise nut!! Later model Reed with oil holes and flat nose but exposed screw. It's like some engineer said let's make a Retro Reed with all the improvements but let's make it exposed screw to gather up all the ****. LOL Great refresh on your part.

Bigcaddy - could that Wilton have been from the Titanic's machine shop?
Craig
 

bigcaddy

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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Brax - way cool Reed my fellow vise nut!! Later model Reed with oil holes and flat nose but exposed screw. It's like some engineer said let's make a Retro Reed with all the improvements but let's make it exposed screw to gather up all the ****. LOL Great refresh on your part.

Bigcaddy - could that Wilton have been from the Titanic's machine shop?
Craig


Hard to say but its cleaning up nicely.:D I just finished up making a new pair of dowel pins and re-drilling the threaded insert so it fits with this particular vise. Everything went together nicely and i should have time next week to fab up a set of lock downs for the swivel base.
 

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
Like many here, vises are one of my vices. Have too many, but here are a few that I have pics handy. First is a baby bullet, on a power arm. Did a quicky restore on this one. Next is a like new craftsman, didn't need it, but it was in too nice of a shape to pass up. Then we have one of the coolest drill press vises I've ever seen, adjustable in every which way, swivel, tilt, roll, you name it. All movements are engraved with degree scales too, amazing quality, but no manufacturers name, strangely. Have to try to remember to take some pics of my bigger vises.
Jim
 

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ryan t

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Nov 12, 2012
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Bristol, Va.
So I've got a mounting question. I bought a Craftsman Professional 4 1/2" vise. Yes it's Chinese made, etc. I got a great deal. My question, which end of the work bench should it be mounted on? One end buts up against my tool chest. The other end has about 10" of clearance between the work bench and the shelving unit. Which end should I put it on? The toolbox cannot be moved as it is against the door jam.

Image12262012010808_zps21aa509c.jpg
 

goodspeed

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Jul 26, 2012
Messages
305
I'd mount it on the end with the most clearance, but you're kinda lacking either way.

Maybe a movable vise stand is an option for your situation?
 

Outlawmws

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Ryan, are you right of left handed? If right I'd put it on the right side and if left, on the left.

if you are a lefty, I'd also think about swapping the tool box an bench positions
 

Mohawk Dave

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Ryan, are you right of left handed? If right I'd put it on the right side and if left, on the left.

if you are a lefty, I'd also think about swapping the tool box an bench positions

Outlaw,

Can you explain your reasoning on this? I pretended I was left handed and thought his set up would be where I'd put it, as my strong hand could open and reach for tools...or is this backwards? And if so, why?

Thanks!
 

Mark in Indiana

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Southern Indiana
So I've got a mounting question. I bought a Craftsman Professional 4 1/2" vise. Yes it's Chinese made, etc. I got a great deal. My question, which end of the work bench should it be mounted on? One end buts up against my tool chest. The other end has about 10" of clearance between the work bench and the shelving unit. Which end should I put it on? The toolbox cannot be moved as it is against the door jam.

Image12262012010808_zps21aa509c.jpg

If I had the same problem, I'd place the roll-around on the left side of the bench and mount the vise on the right side. You'll have a lot of working space for your vise. My shop only has enough room to walk sideways in so I have to make the best of space.
 

Alpowa

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Oct 20, 2012
Messages
8
A good topic; I find most benches put a heavy vise much too high. I like a small, portable vise on the bench, and a large vise on a pedestal. Your arms, and teeth, will last longer if the thing in the vise is a little lower, in relation to your body mass.

If your bench space is at a premium, you will appreciate having the corners empty. Besides, a pedestal allows you to change your angle on the work without pivoting the vise. Like the 'bench grinder', I think the 'bench vise' belongs on a heavy stand.

[eta: I'm right handed, but have always preferred to work off the left side of the vise. So I would always prefer the left end of the bench. Is that backward?]
 
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Alpowa

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Oct 20, 2012
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C2 from a pawnshop just before xmas; Just a moderate cleanup job. I still have to run a wire wheel into the slide tube to remove the loose scale in there. I scraped the paint in a few places out of curiosity. I went back ready to offer $200, it was marked $350. The guy cut me off to give me an earlybird special on the upcoming half-off sale. Good enough.

The numbers are almost gone, it could be 82, but that's just my best guess.

I was interested to see the 'corrective' machine work on the dynamic jaw to get it to line up at the top! The casting is off-set, so the boring for the slide had to be off-center, and off-axis. The cut for the jaw pad was angled to finish the corrective fitting! Pretty sure the missing letters were ground off at the factory, also. It could have been a 'cosmetic blem' that was tossed into a .gov contract -- who knows.

That's a Mcmaster needle-roller I was fooling with when I noticed there was a thrust washer in the parts list for this vise. The race for the bearing would be a good thrust washer by itself, but I think the needle setup is good to go. [5909K38 & 5909K52]

http://i46.tinypic.com/213g2h0.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/az732d.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/293bkop.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/28u4v2b.jpg
2j3s1tc.jpg
 

autopts

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C2 from a pawnshop just before xmas; Just a moderate cleanup job. I still have to run a wire wheel into the slide tube to remove the loose scale in there. I scraped the paint in a few places out of curiosity. I went back ready to offer $200, it was marked $350. The guy cut me off to give me an earlybird special on the upcoming half-off sale. Good enough.

The numbers are almost gone, it could be 82, but that's just my best guess.

I was interested to see the 'corrective' machine work on the dynamic jaw to get it to line up at the top! The casting is off-set, so the boring for the slide had to be off-center, and off-axis. The cut for the jaw pad was angled to finish the corrective fitting! Pretty sure the missing letters were ground off at the factory, also. It could have been a 'cosmetic blem' that was tossed into a .gov contract -- who knows.

That's a Mcmaster needle-roller I was fooling with when I noticed there was a thrust washer in the parts list for this vise. The race for the bearing would be a good thrust washer by itself, but I think the needle setup is good to go. [5909K38 & 5909K52]

http://i46.tinypic.com/213g2h0.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/az732d.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/293bkop.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/28u4v2b.jpg
2j3s1tc.jpg



Hi, is it possible to see a photo of that problem?
 

Alpowa

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Oct 20, 2012
Messages
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The links are my poor attempt to illustrate with photography; You can see how the jaw is longer on one end, hole bored off center, etc. The angle of the slide in the dyn. jaw is hard to see without sizing it up on the bench.

I suppose I could get a rule in there for perspective, but it's really not a problem as much as a solution.

The jaws meet up almost perfectly, and it would have taken me years to see it if I hadn't had it apart working on it.

This C2 will likely be 'MY Wilton', and I think it's going to work out just fine. I already have the steel for the pedestal.
 
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rusty65

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Mar 20, 2012
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Pekin,IL
Congrats on the the new vise jabber. Free is always the best price. I guess passing on the other vise worked out for the better.
 

bobcatdan

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Jan 4, 2011
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Kaukauna,WI
When it comes to mounting a vise, over the last couple of years I have become a huge fan of the center mounted vise. At work I have a 6" wilton mounded in the center of 12' bench and for me it works great.
 

jopickens

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May 29, 2009
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Grafton, WV
Prentiss Bulldog Ol No. 58 (post restoration - 305lbs. not including the stand & boys... :cool:

pbdno58_30_small.JPG


Father and two sons testing it out...

pbdno58_31_small.JPG
 

Mohawk Dave

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Prentiss Bulldog Ol No. 58 (post restoration - 305lbs. not including the stand & boys... :cool:

So COOL! I love this vise. One question...the handle is pinned halfway, correct? That makes so much sense, so you do not have to haggle with it. It is always right there. Again, very cool!:bowdown:
 

jopickens

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Grafton, WV
Thank you - a good friend turned me on to that years ago... Have done it to most all my vises. Machine a small groove in the middle of the handle - drill and tap a hole for whatever size spring and ball bearing you have handy (appropriately sized for the vise/handle of course) - and thread in a set screw to hold it in place. You can adjust the 'detent holding power' by threading the set screw in/out changing the spring pressure on the ball bearing etc. etc.
I like the ability to still use the whole vise handle when needed... :cool: I made this one out of a truck torsion bar to reduce the chance of bending it. ha

This is by far my largest vise - I haven't went through this entire thread but I've never seen one that is heavier. It was given to me by a neighbor that never used it... sat for years in the mud at the bottom of a junk pile outside his shop. It was originally from a local RxR and was thrown out when the stop pin broke many many years ago.
 
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dirtydogintex

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Sep 28, 2012
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inner looper-3rd Div Houston w & n
So I've got a mounting question. I bought a Craftsman Professional 4 1/2" vise. Yes it's Chinese made, etc. I got a great deal. My question, which end of the work bench should it be mounted on? One end buts up against my tool chest. The other end has about 10" of clearance between the work bench and the shelving unit. Which end should I put it on? The toolbox cannot be moved as it is against the door jam.

Image12262012010808_zps21aa509c.jpg
I work primarily 'right handed' yet I'd still put the vise on the left.

The vise can be rotated and the tool box can temporarily be rolled outta the way on an as needed basis, eh?
 

Provincial

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Near Salem, OR
I'm right-handed and for various reasons my vises have been mounted on the left end of the workbenches the last two times. Sometimes it seems awkward, but it works well enough that I would say not to worry about which end of the bench to mount it on. I find that the vise being mounted too high is a bigger problem.
 

Outlawmws

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Outlaw,

Can you explain your reasoning on this? I pretended I was left handed and thought his set up would be where I'd put it, as my strong hand could open and reach for tools...or is this backwards? And if so, why?

Thanks!

I'm a righty and I like having the bench to the left so I can support longer items on that side and manage the opening and closing of the vise with my right.

This also means I generally cut on the left side of the vise, and I'm not standing over the vise but next to it. I also have a tool box to the right of the vise so I'm Constantly reaching for the tools with my right hand. (I'm not very ambidextrous at all...)

My real goal is a larger shop and longer bench and identical vises, one on each corner, so when I do have something really long...
 

Alpowa

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Oct 20, 2012
Messages
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Machine a small groove in the middle of the handle - drill and tap a hole for whatever size spring and ball bearing you have handy (appropriately sized for the vise/handle of course) - and thread in a set screw to hold it in place. You can adjust the 'detent holding power' by threading the set screw in/out changing the spring pressure on the ball bearing etc. etc.
I like the ability to still use the whole vise handle when needed...

I just realized that I can do this without removing the handle from the screw! I can chuck it up and just let the screw dangle!

That is a very handsome vise, the 8" Prentiss Bulldog. You've done a good job setting it up for display - or serious use.
 

Steroblan

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Jan 31, 2012
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Northern Calif
If I had the same problem, I'd place the roll-around on the left side of the bench and mount the vise on the right side. You'll have a lot of working space for your vise. My shop only has enough room to walk sideways in so I have to make the best of space.

Left side you might end up with alot of slag or grind metal in your tool box. Right side could be a fire hazard if you use the vise for welding and cutting.

A stand alone would be ideal in your case. My homemade pedistal works out well.
 

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87Pomona

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Nov 30, 2011
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In the Garage
Hollands 70 Vise with a swivel base I havent came across before today.

Edit: It's a Keystone Mechanics Vise and the swivel base is a tongue and groove pattern.

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Mohawk Dave

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I'm a righty and I like having the bench to the left so I can support longer items on that side and manage the opening and closing of the vise with my right.

This also means I generally cut on the left side of the vise, and I'm not standing over the vise but next to it. I also have a tool box to the right of the vise so I'm Constantly reaching for the tools with my right hand. (I'm not very ambidextrous at all...)

My real goal is a larger shop and longer bench and identical vises, one on each corner, so when I do have something really long...

Got it. Thank you sir. And a bigger shop I need as well:D
 

kapster

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Dec 14, 2011
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Wooster, Ohio
Left side you might end up with alot of slag or grind metal in your tool box. Right side could be a fire hazard if you use the vise for welding and cutting.

A stand alone would be ideal in your case. My homemade pedistal works out well.

Love your stand, I'm picking up a wilton 500 tomorrow and I've been thinking how could I put it and my pipe vise on a pedestal. Look no further.

How does the pedestal work out? I like the idea of it but it seems to me a vise that big cant meet its potential on a pedestal. Do you have any trouble with it moving?
 
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Alpowa

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Love your stand, I'm picking up a wilton 500 tomorrow and I've been thinking how could I put it and my pipe vise on a pedestal. Look no further.

How does the pedestal work out? I like the idea of it but it seems to me a vise that big cant meet its potential on a pedestal. Do you have any trouble with it moving?

THAT'S a combination vise! I have my pipe vise bolted to a short piece of 4" angle iron so I can clamp it in my Columbian when I need it.

That said, I am very fond of gear that requires 'no additional setup' -- like the one pictured. By the way, that's a sweet pedestal. The great thing about a round base is you can just clamp a 2x4 into the vise to rock it over and roll it around. I move mine all the time.

eta: My pedestal is an old tractor wheel filled with concrete, about the same mass as the truck drum above. My experience is that it only 'rotates' when I want it to.

eta2: I have always meant to sink concrete anchors into the floor if I need more stability. It would take a pretty solid bench to match that.
 
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