Unisaw Restoration for The Rocket Shop

woodrail · Apr 26, 2013

This week I created a thread asking about buying fire damaged equipment. I was intentionally vague, the "for sale" post remained up on craigslist. I didn't want anyone coming in and grabbing this deal!

Well, tonight I made the 1 1/2 hour drive, inspected and purchased the saw. I was planning on spending $200, but the seller included some extras like a complete mobile base and the wrench needed to change blades.

Here are some pics:

The story behind this is interesting. The saw was part of a complete commercial woodshop. The business caught fire near the saw and spread to the floor structure above. The floor collapsed on top of the saw. Almost all the damage on the saw is smoke related. Some charring, but not too bad.

The motor runs, but I'm probably still going to tear it down, clean it, and inspect the bearings.

The entire saw will be disassembled, cleaned, calibrated, and put back together.

Finally, a new side extension table and outfeed table will be added.

ADSR · Apr 26, 2013

wow! that's a nice saw!

What HP is that one?

Please take lots of pictures to post.

strutaeng · Apr 27, 2013

I would say that the most important (and expensive) component is the top and the motor. You said the motor work, so the heat on it was probably not that hot. Now, the cast iron top: I would simply check for flatness, both left and right and front to back.

If I recall, steel loses strength rapidly after 1800F +/-

I don't know for sure about cast iron.

Everything else such as fence, plastic knobs, etc, you can get from Delta (now a Taiwanese-owned company)

I have personally seen fire damage and it sometimes blows my mind, but I you said your saw is only smoke damaged, so I think you are in the right track.

Good luck

Mohawk Dave · Apr 27, 2013

I inspect fire loss' all the time. I concur that's only smoke and medium heat damage. No direct flame. I'd say you got a winner!

woodrail · Apr 27, 2013

The motor is a 3hp single phase. Although I witnessed it run, I'm still concerned. It just didn't sound as smooth as would have liked. But, I really don't have experience with a motor this size.

I did the basic level test on the top on both axis. Seen no light, so I suspect I'm OK.

Now this morning I have to unload it out of the Suburban. Dang this thing is heavy!

CNGsaves · Apr 27, 2013

So what did you end up paying for the fire damaged Delta Unisaw??

What's the extra that came with the deal you call mobile workbase??

What size blade??

woodrail · Apr 27, 2013

Paid $250. The "extras" were a full steel base with casters that allowed the saw to be moved, steel leg supports for the large extension table, and a custom made heavy wrench made to change blades.

10" blade.

shephd · Apr 27, 2013

Good luck going through this. I love unisaws (ive got two) and am a big fan of the unifence. For a couple hundred more I've bought good working condition units. I'm not sure I would've gone for this project at 250, but I'm interested in seeing how it goes.
Good luck!

woodrail · Apr 28, 2013

Yep, it is kinda of a gamble. But, what I enjoy doing things like this. I've brought a couple of pinball machines "back from the dead". This will be easier than those.

I've had my eye on the Unisaw market in my area. Under $500 would maybe get you an older 3 phase saw with a lesser quality fence. One that is similar to mine when finished would be much more.

I tend to keep tools. I'll build this one how I want it and I'll be happy. Plus I've got a cool story to go with it.

ADSR · Apr 28, 2013

I'd take the gamble for 250 as well. That's going to be a very nice saw when done.

woodrail · Apr 28, 2013

I spent the day on and off doing a basic cleanup and evaluation of the saw.

Real good news. With clean-up and some lube, everything appears to be working.

Blade tilt is a one finger operation. Blade height is a takes a little effort going up. Going down is practically done with gravity.

The case was cleaned with Simple Green and a scotch brite pad. I certainly could leave it as is, but I'll probably do a re-paint jus to make it look good.

The top got a "stage 1" cleaning. Usable as is, but I'll continue a few more steps.

This is where I'll stop for the day:

I'm about three or four hours in. No added cost so far.

ADSR · Apr 28, 2013

Simple green kicks ***! You are well on your way! good work.

jackfork · Apr 28, 2013

"Everything else such as fence, plastic knobs, etc, you can get from Delta (now a Taiwanese-owned company)"

Yet the saws, at least last I heard, were made in the US.

Just_George · Apr 28, 2013

strutaeng said:
Everything else such as fence, plastic knobs, etc, you can get from Delta (now a Taiwanese-owned company)

Delta has changed hands so many times, they're a complete mess. Getting parts of any kind from them is virtually impossible - they'll quote delivery times in 'months' and often never deliver. Luckily, Uni's have been around forever and parts are easily found via the used market.

shephd · Apr 28, 2013

woodrail said:
Yep, it is kinda of a gamble. But, what I enjoy doing things like this. I've brought a couple of pinball machines "back from the dead". This will be easier than those.

I've had my eye on the Unisaw market in my area. Under $500 would maybe get you an older 3 phase saw with a lesser quality fence. One that is similar to mine when finished would be much more.

I tend to keep tools. I'll build this one how I want it and I'll be happy. Plus I've got a cool story to go with it.

Online, it always looks like the bargains are in Ohio!
Glad to hear cleaning is going well and it's working out. And it is a good story :thumbup:

Just noticed that your mobile base is for the saw only? Or is it in pieces? On mine, I have a delta mobile base that includes the extension table. Thinking it was welded....

woodrail · Apr 29, 2013

I've been wodering exactley how functional the mobile base would be. I have a nice sold set of legs for the right extension table that have holes for casters, but I don't have any cross members.

In truth, I don't think I'll use the base anyways. I've had my current saw in place for several years and have never had the need to move it. I also suspect that some of the solid feeling would be diminished by have it up on the wheels.

woodrail · May 14, 2013

I need some advice for the table top.

I did the initial cleanup with a scotchbrite, some steel wool, and PB blaster as a lubricant.

Although it is smooth and flat, I'm not liking how it looks. It is blotchy, and is showing almost like a broken eggshell finish, almost like damaskas steel.

Any thought on how I might be able to get a uniform finish on top?

RCStocker · May 14, 2013

Just_George said:
Delta has changed hands so many times, they're a complete mess. Getting parts of any kind from them is virtually impossible - they'll quote delivery times in 'months' and often never deliver. Luckily, Uni's have been around forever and parts are easily found via the used market.

I buy and sell estates, shops of all kings. Delta was sold to Rockwell then went back to Delta. Now it is owned by Black and Decker.

I rebuild machines all the time. It is kind of a hobby. I am retired and like to piddle. Delta parts are very easy to get. I have several suppliers and have gotten parts delivered in standard shipping times depending on the location they are being shipped form.

The 3 hp motor makes more noise because of the arbor spinning. Take a straight edge and make sure the top has not warped form the heat. You should have don't that before you bought it. A nice long level will work for a straight edge. You can find Good Unisaws for $800 that are like new. I have 3 of them in my store at the moment. Parts are very expensive. your saw does not look like it has warped but if the fence arms are bad then you should not have picked it up. It is a very good saw and you should be fine. You can order Delta paint form the company and repaint it. I had to repaint a 20 inch band saw that I had to re-weld the hinge that came off. The saw was missing the hinge pin. I turned one and when I tapped it in the hinge weld broke. It was not welded very well. It was a new saw I picked up at auction. It was still in the crate. I still have the saw.
I have a lot of Delta machines and a lot of Jet. I am a huge Jet and Powermatic fan. I like their machines better than Delta. The are top notch now.

Packard V8 · May 14, 2013

Any thought on how I might be able to get a uniform finish on top?

Just as if it's hardwood. A random orbit sander and successively finer grades of aluminum oxide sandpaper. Done it several times. If you want a mirror finish, use a car polishing buffer and rubbing compound for the final step.

jack vines

Unisaw Restoration for The Rocket Shop

woodrail

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ADSR

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strutaeng

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Mohawk Dave

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woodrail

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CNGsaves

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woodrail

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shephd

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woodrail

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ADSR

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woodrail

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