What material on the bottom in toolcabinets?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
rdnkjeeper
Well-known member
Drawer liners? You can buy the "special" stuff or you can run to the dollar store and pick up some kitchen drawer liners. That is what I use and haven't had a problem for years.
Good Luck
Good Luck
BoostAddiction
Well-known member
It all depends.
I use a range of different drawer lining materials, based upon the conditions. For example, I use tool foam to manage certain tools like pliers that I want to see in the same place every time. Tool foam means the stuff will not slide around as the drawer is opened and closed. It also makes it easy to see when tools are missing- very important if you want to avoid FOD and/or make sure your tools don't get borrowed by others at the end of a work session. In other drawers, I use a non-slip liner that reduces (but does not stop entirely) tool movement. These drawers tend to have a lot of relatively low-value objects in them where tracking is not so important, and where speed of locating them is not as important (compared to tool foam, where the same tool is always in exactly the same place). In still others, I use plastic boxes to organize loose parts, supplies, etc. so they will always stay separated, yet be able to be organized by style, etc (e.g, all screws are together, and all bolts are located together). And finally, for certain kinds of tools (e.g., sockets and wrenches) I use custom or store-bought organizers that label and locate everything in the drawer.
Most "kitchen" style liners are not heavy enought to resist sliding, and they tend to end up looking like dried-up taco shells in the drawer over time, at least in my experience. Another problem with the kitchen-oriented solutions is that they tend to allow moisture to pool and cause oxidation. This is a Bad Thing.
IMO, of course!
-Will
I use a range of different drawer lining materials, based upon the conditions. For example, I use tool foam to manage certain tools like pliers that I want to see in the same place every time. Tool foam means the stuff will not slide around as the drawer is opened and closed. It also makes it easy to see when tools are missing- very important if you want to avoid FOD and/or make sure your tools don't get borrowed by others at the end of a work session. In other drawers, I use a non-slip liner that reduces (but does not stop entirely) tool movement. These drawers tend to have a lot of relatively low-value objects in them where tracking is not so important, and where speed of locating them is not as important (compared to tool foam, where the same tool is always in exactly the same place). In still others, I use plastic boxes to organize loose parts, supplies, etc. so they will always stay separated, yet be able to be organized by style, etc (e.g, all screws are together, and all bolts are located together). And finally, for certain kinds of tools (e.g., sockets and wrenches) I use custom or store-bought organizers that label and locate everything in the drawer.
Most "kitchen" style liners are not heavy enought to resist sliding, and they tend to end up looking like dried-up taco shells in the drawer over time, at least in my experience. Another problem with the kitchen-oriented solutions is that they tend to allow moisture to pool and cause oxidation. This is a Bad Thing.
IMO, of course!
-Will
MXtras
Well-known member
I, too have been in search of the ultimate liner material and recently priced out yoga mats and other things. The yoga mats look promising, but I recently bought a few rubber door mats from Wal-Mart for $4 - these things work well for drawer liners (maybe a bit pricey but they are durable as hell. These have raised finger looking thingys on one side and the other side is smooth. The finger thingys will keep tools (milling cutters, etc) from rolling inside the drawer/cart. Just a thought.
Scott
Scott
REFLEXX
Well-known member
I use the rubber made for "pond liners" super cheap at your local HD.
Luckydevil
Well-known member
I just bought the cheapo drawer liners they sell at Lowe's in the kitchen section. Worked great and looks exactly like the Kobalt branded drawer liners they sell in the tool section for twice the price.
2000PRE
Member
I always have the problem with the heavier tools sticking to the kitchen drawer liners. You go to grab a heavy tool, and the whole mat comes out with it.
REFLEXX
Well-known member
Personally I don't like the perforated, soft kitchen drawer liners. They collect dust and chips. grease and oil is impossible to get off of them and the sticking issue.
That's why I like the solid rubber stuff (pond liner / mudflap / shower stall liner). Oil/grease/dust/dirt wipes right off, tools don't stick, tools don't slide.
The stuff also works well on bench tops, under floor jacks, on top of hydro jacks to keep from scratching stuff.
It's not as fancy as foam, but I certainly don't have the desire to cut foam to fit every tool. A drawer full of pliers is easy to weed through to find the ones I want. Plus if you replace a tool with a different one, then you're scrapping the whole drawer foam or have an empty spot.
just my 2c
That's why I like the solid rubber stuff (pond liner / mudflap / shower stall liner). Oil/grease/dust/dirt wipes right off, tools don't stick, tools don't slide.
The stuff also works well on bench tops, under floor jacks, on top of hydro jacks to keep from scratching stuff.
It's not as fancy as foam, but I certainly don't have the desire to cut foam to fit every tool. A drawer full of pliers is easy to weed through to find the ones I want. Plus if you replace a tool with a different one, then you're scrapping the whole drawer foam or have an empty spot.
just my 2c
thor
Active member
BoostAddiction said:
Will, Just a guess, but Sounds like you work in an AIMD?
BoostAddiction
Well-known member
Nope. In fact, I am sort of retired at the moment. And I never really worked on aircraft, either.
Just interested in a wide range of things.-Will
Adam McLaughlin
Well-known member
I have found the best to be "commercial neoprene" that is sold at the local hydraulic supply shop. They have it in 1/16", 1/8" and 3/32" thicknesses. I buy the 1/8" for my sockets and ratchets drawer, and then the 1/16" for the other drawers. This stuff DOES NOT bunch up in the drawer when you slam it shut, and is very easy to clean and even absorbs some of the shock when you toss in a 2' long 1/2" ratchet into the drawer.
I can snap some photos if anyone is interested.
Adam
I can snap some photos if anyone is interested.
Adam
ZRX61
Well-known member
Here's what I have:
This stuff came from Pepboys in rolls, about 3/32nd thick:
This cheap stuff came with the hammerhead box I have:
& lastly the same stuff, but with 1/2in foam under it:
This stuff came from Pepboys in rolls, about 3/32nd thick:
This cheap stuff came with the hammerhead box I have:
& lastly the same stuff, but with 1/2in foam under it:
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Old post, but I'm another one for using foam.
A place for everything, and everything in it's place.
A place for everything, and everything in it's place.
Junkman
Well-known member
Re: What material on the bottom in tool cabinets?
How easy is it to cut the tool foam and make it look like it isn't hacked apart? Can you use the kitchen liners under the tool foam? Where do you purchase the tool foam, and how expensive is it? What sizes does it come in? Are colors available? What is the life expectancy of tool foam?
How easy is it to cut the tool foam and make it look like it isn't hacked apart? Can you use the kitchen liners under the tool foam? Where do you purchase the tool foam, and how expensive is it? What sizes does it come in? Are colors available? What is the life expectancy of tool foam?
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Re: What material on the bottom in tool cabinets?
It's pretty easy to cut it. I haven't used liners under it, there's no point, you don't cut all the way through. I think I paid $10 per sheet (roughly the drawer size shown) at a local place, white only. It'll last forever.
It's pretty easy to cut it. I haven't used liners under it, there's no point, you don't cut all the way through. I think I paid $10 per sheet (roughly the drawer size shown) at a local place, white only. It'll last forever.
eschoendorff
Well-known member
Nissan... your toolbox is just too cool! 
I spent a silly amount of time looking into foam. The open cell types of foam are available in different thicknesses and densities. Some are white, most are dark gray. Colors are available, but I was never able to find anyplace that would sell less than about $400 worth. Don't use the yellowish foam rubber that upholsterers use; it will flake and crumble.
In closed cell foams like the neoprene mentioned above, you can get some solid colors and some laminated colors where the surface has a thin layer of colored vinyl. If you think of can cozy's you've seen, that will give you the idea. Again here I found it tough to get small quantities of colors; those cozy's are imported as already cut patterns to be custom printed.
A nice way to cut either kind is to use a Dremel with one of those fluted cutting bits. Messy, but quick and clean edges. I even used my (Dremel) router base attachment to cut to an even depth if you don't want to go all the way through. But if you really like the "what's missing?" visual, you would go all the way through the foam and lay it on top of something with a bright or contrasting color. Sheet vinyl would work, or yoga mats might if you can find a color that works.
In closed cell foams like the neoprene mentioned above, you can get some solid colors and some laminated colors where the surface has a thin layer of colored vinyl. If you think of can cozy's you've seen, that will give you the idea. Again here I found it tough to get small quantities of colors; those cozy's are imported as already cut patterns to be custom printed.
A nice way to cut either kind is to use a Dremel with one of those fluted cutting bits. Messy, but quick and clean edges. I even used my (Dremel) router base attachment to cut to an even depth if you don't want to go all the way through. But if you really like the "what's missing?" visual, you would go all the way through the foam and lay it on top of something with a bright or contrasting color. Sheet vinyl would work, or yoga mats might if you can find a color that works.
billymade
Well-known member
I use a black "floor runner" that people use to protect areas of heavy traffic on carpet areas in the house or their business. Grandma used to use this stuff to protect the carpet in the hallway! Just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and look in the carpet section; it comes in a large roll, it is thick vinyl with lines on it. I just calculated how much I need to cover all my drawers and cut it to fit. I put it in all my drawers; it will last forever, you can degrease it (pretty much bulletproof, indestructible!) and it will be the last liner you will ever need to buy, OMHO! If you are going to buy a roll of stuff anyway and have to cut it; why not use something that is really durable, won't tear and be a "final solution" to the drawer liner question?
relatively thick vinyl floor runner, has lines going length wise; do it once and be done with it!
relatively thick vinyl floor runner, has lines going length wise; do it once and be done with it!
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speed bump
Well-known member
I just use the some tool box liner stuff I picked up at Quality Supply for $8, its US made and supposedly has some sort of rust guard built into it.
If you cut it to the right dimensions I have never had a problem with it sliding around.
If you cut it to the right dimensions I have never had a problem with it sliding around.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i would like to know the supplier for mac's drawer liners. it's soft enough that your tools will sink into it and will not slide around, even when you haul your box on a trailer. matco's is nice also but not as soft as mac's. tools will slide on it.
I went to the Lowes kitchen dept and saw the normal perforated stuff (that I use as a router mat). BUT! They also had a solid drawer liner in black, I think the roll was 5' long and 24" wide. I just cut a roll for a couple drawers on my 41" C-man and it seems to work pretty nice. I plan on looking at the stuff Billymade recommended though, as a 5' long roll doesnt go very far when you have 14 drawers!! It might be worth getting a longer roll of better material to do it once and do it right.
-Chris
-Chris
coleman10
Well-known member
I use a black "floor runner" that people use to protect areas of heavy traffic on carpet areas in the house or their business. Grandma used to use this stuff to protect the carpet in the hallway! Just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and look in the carpet section; it comes in a large roll, it is thick vinyl with lines on it. I just calculated how much I need to cover all my drawers and cut it to fit. I put it in all my drawers; it will last forever, you can degrease it (pretty much bulletproof, indestructible!) and it will be the last liner you will ever need to buy, OMHO! If you are going to buy a roll of stuff anyway and have to cut it; why not use something that is really durable, won't tear and be a "final solution" to the drawer liner question?
relatively thick vinyl floor runner, has lines going length wise; do it once and be done with it!
Old thread, but I just wanted to give a thumbs up for this stuff. I just picked up a roll of it and easily cut it to fit my chest drawers and top. This stuff can easily be cleaned and will last forever. Awesome stuff and cheap to boot!
Gregg33
Well-known member
I use a black "floor runner" that people use to protect areas of heavy traffic on carpet areas in the house or their business. Grandma used to use this stuff to protect the carpet in the hallway! Just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and look in the carpet section; it comes in a large roll, it is thick vinyl with lines on it. I just calculated how much I need to cover all my drawers and cut it to fit. I put it in all my drawers; it will last forever, you can degrease it (pretty much bulletproof, indestructible!) and it will be the last liner you will ever need to buy, OMHO! If you are going to buy a roll of stuff anyway and have to cut it; why not use something that is really durable, won't tear and be a "final solution" to the drawer liner question?
relatively thick vinyl floor runner, has lines going length wise; do it once and be done with it!
I use those for the top of my roller cabinets. For drawer liners don't screw around with **** (trust me I've tried a few different materials over the years). Go to a tool truck or tool store and get a tool box liners roll, then cut it to size. Keep in mind many common brands of boxes (including Gray, SO and Craftsman) have liner kits available for not much more than it costs to cut your own from a roll.