Huot box price check on aisle three

wrenchguy · Jan 21, 2014

jakemac said:
Well, you can add me to that lamenting list. It's a nice drawer layout.
Although, I do have a line on an older one. The handles on it don't match the bottom box I have like yours does, but beggars can't be choosers and I'll be proud to own it if it works out. I'll know in a few months.

its urs if u want it in april. plenty of time. thanks.

jakemac · Jan 21, 2014

HaHa - I was being circumspect about it so you could enjoy owning it for a while before passing it on. But yeah, I'll take it when you make your pilgrimage east. :lol:

-------

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

I have the smaller six drawer version of yours. I couldn't imagine how heavy yours is, they weigh a ton. Mine is about 35lbs without anything in it. It's bigger than it looks, it dwarfs my 7 drawer Kennedy.

Does anyone know how to remove the Huot drawers, it's not as simple to remove as my Kennedy? I do have to say the Huot drawers on mine are nice, very smooth, nicer to open than my #520 Kennedy I think because the Huot has heavier gauge metal and the handles are bigger.

I'm also curious on the value and would like to find more info about these tool chests, there's doesn't seem to be much out there.

I still have to clean mine up, the drawers have both cork and felt in the drawers. I like the cork.

jakemac · Jan 31, 2014

That's in really nice shape. :thumbup:

To remove the slides, you need to use a long thin piece of metal strapping. A 12" hacksaw blade may work as well, but dull the teeth first. Slip it in between the slide and the drawer. There is a spring tab that engages a detent on the slide. By positioning the slimjim between the tab and the detent, you can slip the slide past the stop. Do the ones on the drawer first to get it out of the way, then do the box side to pull out the slide.

It can be a little frustrating until you get the feel for it. Some slides will be easier than others. Just keep plugging away at it until you find the sweet spot. It's kind of like picking a lock, or jimmying a car door with the keys inside.

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

Thanks Jakemac for the quick reply. I'll give it a try and good idea about using a hack saw blade.

I think this box will clean up nicely with some time put into it. I like the drawers better on this one than the Snap-On ones pictured below it.

Does anyone know if cork or felt came with it originally?

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

Hey V8, This post might be useful for you. Yours looks similar
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175438

jakemac · Jan 31, 2014

The bottom box I picked up had cork in the 3 small drawers. The others were bare. I'll be replacing it all with rubber drawer liners.

zkling · Jan 31, 2014

macgee said:
I have the smaller six drawer version of yours. I couldn't imagine how heavy yours is, they weigh a ton. Mine is about 35lbs without anything in it. It's bigger than it looks, it dwarfs my 7 drawer Kennedy.

Does anyone know how to remove the Huot drawers, it's not as simple to remove as my Kennedy? I do have to say the Huot drawers on mine are nice, very smooth, nicer to open than my #520 Kennedy I think because the Huot has heavier gauge metal and the handles are bigger.

I'm also curious on the value and would like to find more info about these tool chests, there's doesn't seem to be much out there.

I still have to clean mine up, the drawers have both cork and felt in the drawers. I like the cork.

That is a really slick looking setup macgee :thumbup:

What is the story behind those two boxes?

sasquatch12 · Jan 31, 2014

Wow, Mcgee, beautifull box and roller! Real nice!!

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

Hey Jakemac,

I tried what you suggested but a hacksaw blade is too big to fit. From what I can see you don't have to go too far (6") but you need a piece less than a 1/16" thick by approx. 1/8" that is hardened steel (won't flex). It's super tricky and I couldn't get with the tools I have. I tried using a long .061 diameter flat head screw driver but it just kept bending. It looks like you need a very specific tool to release the drawer because of the restricted access.

I wish they had the same system as the Kennedy however out of three the Huot drawers open the best.

To put size into perspective this is the 6 drawer Huot next to a seven drawer #520 Kennedy and dwarfs it. The kennedy next to it looks like it's for children.
I would love to have the same model as Packard V8, having the extra 4 drawers would be perfect.

Mine measures 26" w x 14" H x 12" deep

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

sasquatch12 said:
Wow, Mcgee, beautifull box and roller! Real nice!!

Thanks Zkling & Sasquatch,

The roller isn't mine, found it on another GJ for sale thread.

I came across these and bunch of other classic tools from the family of an old Boeing aerospace engineer. His garage(s) were totally filled with all kinds of aerospace tools. Also got a bunch of PWA machined finished Proto tools, they're beautiful and makes my Snap-On tools look like they came from harbor freight but that's for another thread.

I'm suppose to go back tomorrow and go through all the garages again.

I would love to find a base for the Huot.

jakemac · Jan 31, 2014

Mcgee, the hacksaw blade should work. My bottom box is apart for degreasing and relubing, so I took a few pics.

Pic 1 - the "tool" I used. 1/2"x11" piece of spring strapping with a slight bend at the tapered end. The tapper and the bend help it slide past the stops.

Pic 2 - A side view of the drawer and slide, showing the stop bar on the drawer.

Pic 3 - the tool over the stop, and under the slide detent.

Pic 4 - The inside of the box, the circles show the bent metal tabs that are used as stops.

Pic 5 - With the slide.

Pic 6 - The tool through the slide and over the stop.

You need to pass the tool all the way through the slide so that the detent on the slide rides over the tool and passes over the stops. It's important to keep the tool centered so that it doesn't slip off the stops while moving the slides.

Start by pulling the drawer all the way out. Position your tool in the slide and push the slide back into the box past the stop. Then do the other side of the drawer. Now you can remove the drawer and work on removing the slides from the box side.

drivesitfar · Jan 31, 2014

Jake, thanks for the detailed pictures and explanation of how to take the drawers of your Huot box. also just curious is that a heavy duty paper towel you put down on your bench to put your projects on or is it a thin rubber mat?

I'm planning on taking the drawers off a couple of my tool boxes and using Beeswax to lube them up that I think is called Door eaze. are you using oil or some sort of grease on yours?

good luck

jakemac · Jan 31, 2014

The mat on my workbench is PigMat, for oil/gas spills. It rips like paper towels. I get it at NAPA in a big roll. I like to use DoorEase on my slides, it's synthetic. Bees wax will work but it can stick and bind.

This is my first Huot box, so when I took it apart I was working blind and just took a guess as to how to get passed the stops based on other posts I read here over the past few months. I thought the pics might help out the next guy.

macgee · Jan 31, 2014

jakemac said:
Mcgee, the hacksaw blade should work. My bottom box is apart for degreasing and relubing, so I took a few pics.

Pic 1 - the "tool" I used. 1/2'x11" piece of spring strapping with a slight bend at the tapered end. The tapper and the bend help it slide past the stops.

Pic 2 - A side view of the drawer and slide, showing the stop bar on the drawer.

Pic 3 - the tool over the stop, and under the slide detent.

Pic 4 - The inside of the box, the circles show the bent metal tabs that are used as stops.

Pic 5 - With the slide.

Pic 6 - The tool through the slide and over the stop.

You need to pass the tool all the way through the slide so that the detent on the slide rides over the tool and passes over the stops. It's important to keep the tool centered so that it doesn't slip off the stops while moving the slides.

Start by pulling the drawer all the way out. Position your tool in the slide and push the slide back into the box past the stop. Then do the other side of the drawer. Now you can remove the drawer and work on removing the slides from the box side.

Jakemac, Thanks for taking the time to post the great pictures but after looking at your drawers I think I may have a different system? I was able to get one side off but the other side was impossible because the other side had a even smaller clearance and the flange was protruding even father out.

On my box near the front there is a ****** sticking out of the box frame toward the drawer and the flange on the drawer in the photo sticks out sideways hitting the ****** stopping the drawer from coming out. The problem is that the ****** isn't flexible and prevents me from getting a good straight access to the drawer flange and I can only get at the flange from an angle in order to get around the ****** or am i missing something?

Again, Thanks for all your help and yes, your photo's will really help other people as I couldn't find anything specific about these tool chest's.

drivesitfar · Jan 31, 2014

I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one those pictures and step by step process will help.

thanks

jakemac · Jan 31, 2014

Mcgee,
The system may not be exactly the same, but the principle should still work. Keep plugging away at it, you'll find the sweet spot eventually. Good luck. :thumbup:

wrenchguy · Jan 31, 2014

the flat stock u use must not be wider and slide easy in the channel that tang/nub is located. look at jakes pic close, sometime u have to put a kink/bend towards the working end to get it started under the other tang. my s-o ones are made of spring steel. good luck.

Packard V8 · Jan 31, 2014

Yes, the Huot drawer slide detents are the worst to finesse.

1. You need a piece of thin spring steel the same width as the recess in the drawer slide. I made one from the steel strap which supports a hanging file in an office file drawer.

2. It will need to be bent toward the box side of the slide.

3. The goal is to get the slim jim past the Huot detent. This is really, really difficult sometimes, as the slide detent may be bent outward until it is rubbing the box side.

As mentioned, keeping a mental picture of where all the pieces fit together and where you're trying to make the slim jim fit can help.

jack vines

drivesitfar · Jan 31, 2014

Jack,
nice tip with the metal in the old file folder holders. I was trying to find a hack saw blade that I used to have a ton of and I think they all got donated some time ago. I do still have a few file folders though. Thanks :thumbup:

drwinchester · Jan 31, 2014

The Picture of the Huot upper/lower box is mine.I bought it from a member of GJ.I contacted Huot direct and they sent me the thin metal removal tool along with the directions for removal of the drawers.This combo looks brand new inside with original cork drawer liners.There is a learning curve to the tool.Once you do one you will become a pro at it.Let me know if I can help in any way.

macgee · Feb 1, 2014

Packard V8, Drwinchester, wrenchguy and jakemac,

Thanks so much for all the posts and good info. Using the metal from a file paper holder is a great idea. With my version of drawers, a hack saw file is too big to fit inside the channel where the flange is located so I'll try your idea when i get some more time.

I'm usually really good working/unlocking these type of drawers, having the correct tools and having a firm knowledge of the mechanics makes life way easier. I've done a ton of different type of drawer assemblies but this one seems the least service friendly of them all, I wished I had jakemac's version.

zkling · Feb 1, 2014

macgee said:
I wish they had the same system as the Kennedy however out of three the Huot drawers open the best.

To put size into perspective this is the 6 drawer Huot next to a seven drawer #520 Kennedy and dwarfs it. The kennedy next to it looks like it's for children.
I would love to have the same model as Packard V8, having the extra 4 drawers would be perfect.

Mine measures 26" w x 14" H x 12" deep

That is a really cool picture. :thumbup:

As for comparing the boxes, you need to realize those are two drastically different boxes. The kennedy is a metal version of the timeless 20" wide, 7 drawer machinist chest. I'd be willing to bet a similar version was used to construct ark. It was designed for machinist tools, to be easily carried and thus needed a balance between size, weight and capacity.

The Huot is a 26" style top chest for mechanics tools. Pretty small compared to today's standards, but again a classic design of 3 small drawers atop 3 long drawers, 26" wide x 12" deep.

Both box styles are still being made today, and will probably be made till the end of time. They are just classic designs, each suited for a different application. Comparing the two would be like comparing a truck to a motorcycle, different applications.

The snap on middle is just cool, one of the first intermediate boxes. Technically Huot made a middle box to match that top box, same dimensions as that snap on one. Though the years tool boxes have pretty much been made to a standard size of 20" and 26"x12" then there are the larger boxes.

IMHO kennedy has some of, if not the best friction slides out. The problem with their small boxes is two fold, one the drawer pulls are tiny and 2nd when you have 2 pulls per drawer you really need to pull on both of them otherwise the drawer will cant and you will have side drag on the slide.

macgee · Feb 1, 2014

drwinchester said:
The Picture of the Huot upper/lower box is mine.I bought it from a member of GJ.I contacted Huot direct and they sent me the thin metal removal tool along with the directions for removal of the drawers.This combo looks brand new inside with original cork drawer liners.There is a learning curve to the tool.Once you do one you will become a pro at it.Let me know if I can help in any way.

You did well buying that full rack, Huot rollers are very hard to come by, let alone one in that new of condition.

macgee · Feb 1, 2014

zkling said:
That is a really cool picture. As for comparing the boxes, you need to realize those are two drastically different boxes. The kennedy is a metal version of the timeless 20" wide, 7 drawer machinist chest. I'd be willing to bet a similar version was used to construct ark. It was designed for machinist tools, to be easily carried and thus needed a balance between size, weight and capacity.

The Huot is a 26" style top chest for mechanics tools. Pretty small compared to today's standards, but again a classic design of 3 small drawers atop 3 long drawers, 26" wide x 12" deep.

Both box styles are still being made today, and will probably be made till the end of time. They are just classic designs, each suited for a different application. Comparing the two would be like comparing a truck to a motorcycle, different applications.

The snap on middle is just cool, one of the first intermediate boxes. Technically Huot made a middle box to match that top box, same dimensions as that snap on one. Though the years tool boxes have pretty much been made to a standard size of 20" and 26"x12" then there are the larger boxes.

IMHO kennedy has some of, if not the best friction slides out. The problem with their small boxes is two fold, one the drawer pulls are tiny and 2nd when you have 2 pulls per drawer you really need to pull on both of them otherwise the drawer will cant and you will have side drag on the slide.

You are correct on both accounts, While the Huot is considered a mechanics chest it seems more aligned with a machinist chest, my drawers are pretty shallow, not too deep like other mechanic drawers, especially the 10 drawer version that has the narrow tall drawer for your reference book (or whiskey flask) like my Gerstner.
The 520 & 526 Kennedy's must be the most common machinist chest out there (copies of the gerstner). I actually got the Huot to hold all of my Starret and other calibration and larger reference tools and squares once I clean it out and put in new liners in it.

As nice as my Kennedy and my Gerstner's are I do like the larger size and ease of opening & closing of the Huot drawers. I mostly do machining, woodwork.

You are totally correct about the Kennedy drawers, I almost always use one clean hand to open my drawers and really prefer the pull handle in the center over the small two off-center pull handles. I can't fault the Kennedy, it's just doesn't work so well by the way I open drawers.

I do prefer the way the Kennedy's & Gerstner front cover works and stores over the Huot version.

Thanks everyone for your help. Cheers

macgee · Feb 2, 2014

Since we have some knowledgable Huot owners on this thread, I should ask if the big side lifting handles on the outsides are through bolted to loose nuts inside or do they bolt into tap metal? I would like to take the handles off and get the rust off them but I don't want loosen them up and find out there's nuts on the inside which I won't be able to get access to.

Thnx.

jakemac · Feb 2, 2014

I haven't taken the side handles off a Huot yet, but other boxes that I have taken the handles off had threaded inserts.

Someone else would know better than I would. :dunno:

BFBOB · Feb 2, 2014

...not that it actually matters, just curious. Is it who-ought or who-owe , or something else?

jakemac · Feb 2, 2014

I thought it was pronounced "how-t". :dunno:

wrenchguy · Feb 2, 2014

jakemac said:
I thought it was pronounced "how-t".

i say it like Beloit, hoit. not that it matters. :dunno:

Packard V8 · Feb 2, 2014

macgee said:
Since we have some knowledgable Huot owners on this thread, I should ask if the big side lifting handles on the outsides are through bolted to loose nuts inside or do they bolt into tap metal? I would like to take the handles off and get the rust off them but I don't want loosen them up and find out there's nuts on the inside which I won't be able to get access to.

Threaded into side of box. Just short 1/4-20 screws. No worries about losing anything.

jack vines

zkling · Feb 2, 2014

It is pronounced like "Hew-it"

Packard V8 said:
Threaded into side of box. Just short 1/4-20 screws. No worries about losing anything.

jack vines

The same can't be said for the lid stays now can it?

macgee · Feb 2, 2014

Packard V8 said:
Threaded into side of box. Just short 1/4-20 screws. No worries about losing anything.

jack vines

Perfect, Thanks Jack!

My Junk is Stuff · Mar 8, 2014

I made a little tool to get them out when I did my Huot box. Thinner than the hacksaw blade and has a curl in the end to get around the track stop on the box. This feature makes it easy to get the drawers out.

drivesitfar · Mar 8, 2014

thanks for adding that tool you made to this thread because i'm planning on buying a few of these cool boxes. did you make it from a metal clip that holds down conduit or what does the original piece look like? or was it just a scrap.

also when you posted your before and after picture on the other thread i think it was vintage tool boxes your pictures didn't blow up. can you put bigger ones over there because you did a damn nice job? also can you post your before picture on here because this is a pretty nice thread too?

My Junk is Stuff · Mar 8, 2014

Thanks for the props! it's still not done, I have to do the front door. Somebody drilled like 15 holes in it for who know what locks and stuff

That was the biggest pain for me, I **** at welding, although it helped when I found an old copper soldering iron and used that for backing under the sheet metal.

The little tool I made was just scrap really, I got a bunch of small pieces with some control line model airplane stuff and you know, had to keep it all just in case :lol_hitti

I don't know what the factory tool looks like, but the curve I put in mine seems to make all the difference. I did file the very tip so there was no gap where it would touch and it's pretty thin, probably almost tin can thin.

My Junk is Stuff · Mar 8, 2014

Here's a couple more of the kind of after :lol_hitti

Sorry for so many photo's :beer:

I forgot to mention, I did paint it with the Hammertone silver and light blue as I think they are a pretty close match... but man it's tough to get a "good" hammertone finish!! there is a thin line between enough paint to Hammer tone versus enough paint to run....

drivesitfar · Mar 8, 2014

nice work on the box. looks like a definite keeper now. also nice save on the airplane piece of metal that you knew was going to be of use at some future date.

just saw the next batch of photos on the restoration and just a note there is never too many pictures like this in my book. :thumbup:

macgee · Mar 8, 2014

Packard V8 said:
Threaded into side of box. Just short 1/4-20 screws. No worries about losing anything.

jack vines

Thanks Packard,

I removed the handles and soaked them in Evaporust, it did the best it could, not perfect but looks better than before. I then put a couple of clear coats of Carnauba wax on the handles and on the box after I cleaned all the rust off to help the rust from coming back.

My Junk is Stuff · Mar 8, 2014

Magee, those handles cleaned up good, you might try some Brasso if you have some. That is all I used on mine and they did have red speckles of rust all over em. The Brasso polished up up real nice

Huot box price check on aisle three

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member