I picked up this grinder stand with a couple of wore out grinders a few years ago. As I have a small shop with no room to mount all my grinders I've often wished I had different grinders mounted on this stand. I've also wished the top would rotate as it is often backed into a corner with the wrong one facing out.
1st I cut off the upright stem at the base of my stand then cut the 14" dia. x 5/8" top plate off. The upright stem turned out to be 1/4" walled pipe and not a solid axel as I'd thought. The boys at Smith Foundry Machine Works were kind enough to donate a 2' section of pipe with a 2" ID. I had to turn down my original 2" OD pipe stem down 1/16" so it would slide inside the new piece of pipe. The new outer pipe was ugly as hell with remnants of scabs of previously welded on bits sticking off it and a combo of rust and old paint so I sanded it down to bare steel and cut it to length. I drilled and tapped a thread about 8" down from the top then welded a nut over top of that to serve as a mount for a lock bolt that I could screw against the inner pipe to stop the top plate from turning on it's own.
I levelled the base on my uneven asphault floor with set up wedges, tacked the upright stem in place, levelled it and welded it in place.
The inner pipe fits smoothly inside the outer pipe with no slop and it turns freely. I thought of grinding a spiral grease groove into the inner pipe and tapping a grease ****** in the outer pipe but didn't want to weaken the inner pipe any more since I've turned it down the 1/16" already. I can always do something like that in the future but it will be easy enough to pull the top off and squirt some grease in there. I didn't want to install a bearing in it but needed some way to make the top plate rotate more freely as my uneven weld under the top plate would be sitting on top of the outer pipe and it wasn't going to allow a smooth rotation. I welded a 1" piece of the wider pipe to the bottom of the plate. This worked so good I was tempted to make a roulette table out of it. Picture shows the top plate upside down.
A bit of background on my choice of Telestrut for the bayonet system:
I purchased some left over aluminum and steel on CL a while back and after talking to the seller about some square tubing that would slide into the next size tightly the guy said "hang on a sec" and returned with about 12' of 2" square outer and 30' of 1 3/4" inner perforated square tubing (telestrut), all free. http://www.unistrutohio.com/telescoping-square-tube.html
A buddy donated some steel for the tool mounts. Yeah, it's ugly but free!
The tool mounts consist of 1/4" - 1/2" steel plates large enough to accommodate the tools' mount points welded to a length of telestrut (thinner inner pieces) with 8" protruding out.
The big curse I have with this material is I only have about 3' of the outer 2" size left over from my bike stand project and it's about $10 per foot locally. After working with telestrut I liked the feel of at least 8" contact area so I welded 16" to the top plate of the grinder stand so I could mount 2 tools on opposite sides. I couldn't wait to try it out once I had the 1st tool mounted, my 1/3 hp baldor grinder.
It's so tight yet easy to slide in and out of the bayonet I don't think I'll need to bolt or pin it in place. I had planned on buying or making some taper pins and tapering some of the holes in the male and female telespar so I could quickly lock the tools rigidly in place but now I'll wait and see if it's necessary. I know this system is not real heavy duty for really big grinders, vices etc but I have big vices permanently mounted to all my benches so this is going to work well with many of my smaller buffers, grinders and small vices used for light holding applications etc.
More to come.
1st I cut off the upright stem at the base of my stand then cut the 14" dia. x 5/8" top plate off. The upright stem turned out to be 1/4" walled pipe and not a solid axel as I'd thought. The boys at Smith Foundry Machine Works were kind enough to donate a 2' section of pipe with a 2" ID. I had to turn down my original 2" OD pipe stem down 1/16" so it would slide inside the new piece of pipe. The new outer pipe was ugly as hell with remnants of scabs of previously welded on bits sticking off it and a combo of rust and old paint so I sanded it down to bare steel and cut it to length. I drilled and tapped a thread about 8" down from the top then welded a nut over top of that to serve as a mount for a lock bolt that I could screw against the inner pipe to stop the top plate from turning on it's own.
I levelled the base on my uneven asphault floor with set up wedges, tacked the upright stem in place, levelled it and welded it in place.
The inner pipe fits smoothly inside the outer pipe with no slop and it turns freely. I thought of grinding a spiral grease groove into the inner pipe and tapping a grease ****** in the outer pipe but didn't want to weaken the inner pipe any more since I've turned it down the 1/16" already. I can always do something like that in the future but it will be easy enough to pull the top off and squirt some grease in there. I didn't want to install a bearing in it but needed some way to make the top plate rotate more freely as my uneven weld under the top plate would be sitting on top of the outer pipe and it wasn't going to allow a smooth rotation. I welded a 1" piece of the wider pipe to the bottom of the plate. This worked so good I was tempted to make a roulette table out of it. Picture shows the top plate upside down.
A bit of background on my choice of Telestrut for the bayonet system:
I purchased some left over aluminum and steel on CL a while back and after talking to the seller about some square tubing that would slide into the next size tightly the guy said "hang on a sec" and returned with about 12' of 2" square outer and 30' of 1 3/4" inner perforated square tubing (telestrut), all free. http://www.unistrutohio.com/telescoping-square-tube.html
A buddy donated some steel for the tool mounts. Yeah, it's ugly but free!
The tool mounts consist of 1/4" - 1/2" steel plates large enough to accommodate the tools' mount points welded to a length of telestrut (thinner inner pieces) with 8" protruding out.
The big curse I have with this material is I only have about 3' of the outer 2" size left over from my bike stand project and it's about $10 per foot locally. After working with telestrut I liked the feel of at least 8" contact area so I welded 16" to the top plate of the grinder stand so I could mount 2 tools on opposite sides. I couldn't wait to try it out once I had the 1st tool mounted, my 1/3 hp baldor grinder.
It's so tight yet easy to slide in and out of the bayonet I don't think I'll need to bolt or pin it in place. I had planned on buying or making some taper pins and tapering some of the holes in the male and female telespar so I could quickly lock the tools rigidly in place but now I'll wait and see if it's necessary. I know this system is not real heavy duty for really big grinders, vices etc but I have big vices permanently mounted to all my benches so this is going to work well with many of my smaller buffers, grinders and small vices used for light holding applications etc.
More to come.
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