Vernmotor
Well-known member
Yes I have 5/8 firewall sheetrock on my inside also
Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
...
mdbeck1 – I scan for spycams and bugs weekly, so I knew it couldn’t be that. I suppose most engineers think alike – kind of scary in a way. I bet my parents where happy that we didn’t live too close to a salvage yard – who knows what I would have been dragging home every other day
I’m guessing this is the HF drain you tried.
With that rave review (NOT!), I may forget that idea and just recycle whatever parts I can for something else. I bought it like 3 years ago, so no returns. Maybe that slow leak is HF’s backup plan - with a constant leak down there, there should never be any water build-up!
I originally planned to locate the compressor under the stairs (in fact, that’s even where the dedicated outlet still is), but I ended up finding better uses for that space. I’m glad too, because sound deadening would be much more critical if the compressor was located on a wall adjacent to the apartment. With a CH&A blower circulating air through there, I would certainly say that you have a little extra capacity for those smoked electronics. Funny!
....
That would be the drain I picked up. Part of the problem was sealing on the connection. The bigger part was you have to splice into the hose going to the switch. The hose on mine appears to be made of plastic and the connection kept slipping off. I finally gave up. I think that it cost under $10.00 for the drain so I didn't feel like I lost much. I'll be watching to see what you use. I can always use another neat project.
The circulating blower comes in handy for a LOT of stuff. It pulls paint out of the air real well too.
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
I got mine a couple years ago for about $40 a sheet a couple years ago. It is unreal what a difference it makes. Enclosure is insulated and has a insulated door as well. I plan to spray the inside of the door with bed linner one of these days.
Vernmotor - I kind of dread the thought of working with drywall again. Although in this case, there shouldn’t be any mudding to do. And if there is, it doesn't need to be smooth. The office job drove me nuts!
mdbeck1 - I suppose a high pressure line popping out of its fitting can really get your attention!
My simple fall back plan for the compressor water drain is a double ball valve set-up, creating an airlock of sorts. I don’t have a clear path to just blast it outside. Of course with a manual system, I still need to remember to actually do it. But I guess it can be easily added to my arrival/departure checklists. It would work like this:
1. Open the first valve (nearest the tank) when I arrive to allow water to trickle down into the “airlock”;
2. Close the upstream valve and open the second downstream valve before I leave so the water drains into a bucket while I’m gone.
One possible way to create the Cadillac version would include 2 small solenoid valves and a sprinkler timer to open the first valve for about an hour and once it closes, open the second valve for a set period of time. A quick search shows new parts to build this run about $45. And used parts for even less money are fairly easy to find.
Here’s an irrigation timer that could output a 24VAC signal to the valves. I only need 2 of the 4 timer “stations” (or zones) for this project though which is probably good because it might be a good idea to skip a station to allow the first valve to fully close before the second one opens.
So does the idea hold water? (I hope not!)
BlackSheepSpeedShop – I’m headed to Lowe’s later this week so I will check it out. Thanks.
mdbeck1 - I suppose a high pressure line popping out of its fitting can really get your attention!
My simple fall back plan for the compressor water drain is a double ball valve set-up, creating an airlock of sorts. I don’t have a clear path to just blast it outside. Of course with a manual system, I still need to remember to actually do it. But I guess it can be easily added to my arrival/departure checklists. It would work like this:
1. Open the first valve (nearest the tank) when I arrive to allow water to trickle down into the “airlock”;
2. Close the upstream valve and open the second downstream valve before I leave so the water drains into a bucket while I’m gone.
One possible way to create the Cadillac version would include 2 small solenoid valves and a sprinkler timer to open the first valve for about an hour and once it closes, open the second valve for a set period of time. A quick search shows new parts to build this run about $45. And used parts for even less money are fairly easy to find.
Here’s an irrigation timer that could output a 24VAC signal to the valves. I only need 2 of the 4 timer “stations” (or zones) for this project though which is probably good because it might be a good idea to skip a station to allow the first valve to fully close before the second one opens.
So does the idea hold water? (I hope not!
)BlackSheepSpeedShop – I’m headed to Lowe’s later this week so I will check it out. Thanks.
NO, I'M NOT TRYING TO BUILD A PORTABLE COMPRESSOR…
I put the compressor on wheels so I could move it around easily while testing it and getting it all set up. The main reason was to roll it outside the first time I pumped it up to 120psi - hey, you never know what is going to happen to something used and untested, and I'm playing it relatively safe these days. I even closed the doors and hung out inside while it built up pressure.
Next, I had to rig up some temporary 220VAC wiring to it. I already have a 50A outlet wired up below the breaker box so I made an extension cord to plug it in with some spare Romex cable I had on hand. The blue tape is just keeping some screws that are hanging out the back from scratching the floor. Don't worry, I will get the proper gauge cable on there before I use it for welding or something.
I also had to install a new plug on the compressor. It had a dryer type plug and I intend to standardize on NEMA 6-50 welder connections for the 220V circuits.
SO HOW DID IT WORK?
I'm pleased to say it worked great. It pumped up and precisely stopped at 120psi. I used some air to bleed it down to 90psi where it kicked in again. It was pretty quiet too. There was a slight leak in the regulator so it dropped about 10psi when sitting overnight, but I have a higher quality unit to install in its place.
When I was done testing I rolled it over to its new location for a quick trial fit and I think it will work nicely there.
I bought this 7-day timer by mistake years ago, not knowing it had a 220V timer clock in it (I wanted 110V for another application). Eventually this will be used to control the compressor much like I control the water heater for the apartment. I manually switch it on when I need it and have a number of "OFF" triggers on the wheel so I don't have to worry about switching it off. Over the years, it has worked great for the water heater and I think this same method will work equally well here. Hey look, it's something special from my home state.
I put the compressor on wheels so I could move it around easily while testing it and getting it all set up. The main reason was to roll it outside the first time I pumped it up to 120psi - hey, you never know what is going to happen to something used and untested, and I'm playing it relatively safe these days. I even closed the doors and hung out inside while it built up pressure.
Next, I had to rig up some temporary 220VAC wiring to it. I already have a 50A outlet wired up below the breaker box so I made an extension cord to plug it in with some spare Romex cable I had on hand. The blue tape is just keeping some screws that are hanging out the back from scratching the floor. Don't worry, I will get the proper gauge cable on there before I use it for welding or something.
I also had to install a new plug on the compressor. It had a dryer type plug and I intend to standardize on NEMA 6-50 welder connections for the 220V circuits.
SO HOW DID IT WORK?
I'm pleased to say it worked great. It pumped up and precisely stopped at 120psi. I used some air to bleed it down to 90psi where it kicked in again. It was pretty quiet too. There was a slight leak in the regulator so it dropped about 10psi when sitting overnight, but I have a higher quality unit to install in its place.
When I was done testing I rolled it over to its new location for a quick trial fit and I think it will work nicely there.
I bought this 7-day timer by mistake years ago, not knowing it had a 220V timer clock in it (I wanted 110V for another application). Eventually this will be used to control the compressor much like I control the water heater for the apartment. I manually switch it on when I need it and have a number of "OFF" triggers on the wheel so I don't have to worry about switching it off. Over the years, it has worked great for the water heater and I think this same method will work equally well here. Hey look, it's something special from my home state.
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Wingnut65
Well-known member
Sounds like the compressor will fit nicely into the life of The Asylum. I also have two scuba tanks that won't pass hydro that I want to add to my air lines for added storage capacity.
Like mdbeck mentioned that he did, I also installed a cut off valve in the line just outside the 10 gallon tank so I can turn the air supply off when not in use. With it, my tank does not loose any pressure at all. Even over a few weeks.
Something like this
And my first adventure to Skycraft resulted in a 24" x 1.5" dia. nylon rod so I can test my lathe abilities, a stack of 2x3 ziplock bags, battery clamps for a power inverter and a handful of 30₵ steel scraps for welding practice. $14 in 45 minutes might be a rookie, but now I see what they have to offer and can make a better list for next time! Not sure what you and JCQ have gotten me into...
Like mdbeck mentioned that he did, I also installed a cut off valve in the line just outside the 10 gallon tank so I can turn the air supply off when not in use. With it, my tank does not loose any pressure at all. Even over a few weeks.
Something like this
And my first adventure to Skycraft resulted in a 24" x 1.5" dia. nylon rod so I can test my lathe abilities, a stack of 2x3 ziplock bags, battery clamps for a power inverter and a handful of 30₵ steel scraps for welding practice. $14 in 45 minutes might be a rookie, but now I see what they have to offer and can make a better list for next time! Not sure what you and JCQ have gotten me into...
Wingnut65 – Hey, that’s right – my tank solenoid valve will shut off the supply upstream of the regulator so that little hiss I hear from it internally won’t matter. That’s good too because the regulator seems to work fine otherwise and basically looks brand new yet.
I’m trying to find a larger solenoid valve to do the same job as the ball valve you show, and it will be tied into the timer that controls the compressor. The valve will then automatically open when power is supplied to the compressor and close when I shut it down for the day. What I have found on my compressor at the city garage is that I often turn on the compressor and then walk over to the hose reel only to find I forgot to open the shutoff valve. And what’s worse is when I go to fill a tire with a dead air hose, I’m actually letting air out of the tire! I don’t know how many times I’ve had to walk back and open it after the fact. Getting old and forgetful *****! Hopefully an automatic valve will save me a few steps around the Asylum.
I remember my glorious first trip to Skycraft Surplus. I was like a kid in a candy store. Yes, a shopping list is a must. Otherwise, I get so distracted by all the other stuff I see that I forget what I originally stopped in for. And I always bring along a small tape measure – it often times comes in handy.
Now I'm looking forward to seeing you make some chips and melt some metal!
I’m trying to find a larger solenoid valve to do the same job as the ball valve you show, and it will be tied into the timer that controls the compressor. The valve will then automatically open when power is supplied to the compressor and close when I shut it down for the day. What I have found on my compressor at the city garage is that I often turn on the compressor and then walk over to the hose reel only to find I forgot to open the shutoff valve. And what’s worse is when I go to fill a tire with a dead air hose, I’m actually letting air out of the tire! I don’t know how many times I’ve had to walk back and open it after the fact. Getting old and forgetful *****! Hopefully an automatic valve will save me a few steps around the Asylum.
I remember my glorious first trip to Skycraft Surplus. I was like a kid in a candy store. Yes, a shopping list is a must. Otherwise, I get so distracted by all the other stuff I see that I forget what I originally stopped in for. And I always bring along a small tape measure – it often times comes in handy.
Now I'm looking forward to seeing you make some chips and melt some metal!
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
all this remind me I need to drain my tank ! LOL
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
How did the lift effect your lighting in the shop? When do you plan to design and install the lift lighting? Again, love your work!
Vernmotor - Well, if just one air tank is saved from rusting out, my job here is done! .
BlackSheepSpeedShop - I definitely could use more lighting under the lift since all of my current lighting is overhead and now mostly blocked. But corded and cordless lights are filling the void with some success, when needed. I really need to start seeking out permanent solutions though - thanks for the reminder!
Work on the lift accessories has not stopped, however, and I have parts collecting for both a rolling jack and a cover for the hydraulic power unit. More to come soon on that I hope. I have been focused lately on buying all the parts for the compressor installation. I found a few good deals on some high quality industrial valves to make life simpler.
.BlackSheepSpeedShop - I definitely could use more lighting under the lift since all of my current lighting is overhead and now mostly blocked. But corded and cordless lights are filling the void with some success, when needed. I really need to start seeking out permanent solutions though - thanks for the reminder!
Work on the lift accessories has not stopped, however, and I have parts collecting for both a rolling jack and a cover for the hydraulic power unit. More to come soon on that I hope. I have been focused lately on buying all the parts for the compressor installation. I found a few good deals on some high quality industrial valves to make life simpler.
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Just checked, the name of that Sheetrock is called QuietRock 500.
TIME TO KNOCK OUT THE CONTROL PANEL WALL (Part 1 of 4)…
If you recall, I was waiting on some special parts to come in before finishing this little wall. They were to cover the top “work surface” of the cabinet. After 5 weeks, I finally cancelled the order and went with another company. Two weeks later the parts came in and I decided against that whole idea for this area. Instead, I’m going with the tried and proven tileboard for this small area. Since no real work will be done here, I’m sure it will hold up fine.
Here is the panel with 6 holes cut in. Since I didn’t want to split the door pull chain to install it (it’s one continuous loop), I added “lead-in” slots in the panel.
I still needed something to finish off the holes where the door chains came up through the cabinet. With Wingnut65’s suggestion in mind, I combed my storage bins and found this brush to “seal” the holes around the chain. But later, I decided the bristles weren’t long enough to do a good job so I decided to try some tight fitting holes lined with rubber. I stumbled across a plumbing part at Home Depot that worked for the openings
The filler piece came from the initial part that was cut out for the chain blocks. The disks also ended up get used.
The sides of the cabinet were clad in tileboard as well. I'm still not sure if this looks good or if they should remain black.
If you recall, I was waiting on some special parts to come in before finishing this little wall. They were to cover the top “work surface” of the cabinet. After 5 weeks, I finally cancelled the order and went with another company. Two weeks later the parts came in and I decided against that whole idea for this area. Instead, I’m going with the tried and proven tileboard for this small area. Since no real work will be done here, I’m sure it will hold up fine.
Here is the panel with 6 holes cut in. Since I didn’t want to split the door pull chain to install it (it’s one continuous loop), I added “lead-in” slots in the panel.
I still needed something to finish off the holes where the door chains came up through the cabinet. With Wingnut65’s suggestion in mind, I combed my storage bins and found this brush to “seal” the holes around the chain. But later, I decided the bristles weren’t long enough to do a good job so I decided to try some tight fitting holes lined with rubber. I stumbled across a plumbing part at Home Depot that worked for the openings
The filler piece came from the initial part that was cut out for the chain blocks. The disks also ended up get used.
The sides of the cabinet were clad in tileboard as well. I'm still not sure if this looks good or if they should remain black.
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TIME TO KNOCK OUT THE CONTROL PANEL WALL (Part 2 of 4)…
The chain blocks got dropped back into their respective holes and an aluminum angle was added along the front edge to match the other cabinets.
Next, the rubber seals went in.
I cut some additional pieces of tileboard to build up the thickness and also have opposing chain lead-in slots to the top piece.
I then cut some little filler strips.
These little black disks were made from the piece that was cut out of the cabinet top.
After about 3 hours of tightening little screws (just kidding), I finally ended up with this. Now, I suppose, I better replace that rusty old chain.
At this point, the cabinet still needed some black trim and the door switches needed to be mounted. Those switches will tell whether the door deadbolts are locked or not. Some custom brackets will be required for their installation.
The chain blocks got dropped back into their respective holes and an aluminum angle was added along the front edge to match the other cabinets.
Next, the rubber seals went in.
I cut some additional pieces of tileboard to build up the thickness and also have opposing chain lead-in slots to the top piece.
I then cut some little filler strips.
These little black disks were made from the piece that was cut out of the cabinet top.
After about 3 hours of tightening little screws (just kidding
), I finally ended up with this. Now, I suppose, I better replace that rusty old chain. At this point, the cabinet still needed some black trim and the door switches needed to be mounted. Those switches will tell whether the door deadbolts are locked or not. Some custom brackets will be required for their installation.
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TIME TO KNOCK OUT THE CONTROL PANEL WALL (Part 3 of 4)…
The switches were mounted to sense whether the roll-up doors were locked or not. Here, the lock bar is not in position yet.
And here, the light changes from red to green indicating the door is positively locked.
The wall still needed a small valance panel, so I built one. Two screws hold it in place so it is easy to get at the door switches
BTW, here's a shot at the underside of the chain holes.
The switches were mounted to sense whether the roll-up doors were locked or not. Here, the lock bar is not in position yet.
And here, the light changes from red to green indicating the door is positively locked.
The wall still needed a small valance panel, so I built one. Two screws hold it in place so it is easy to get at the door switches
BTW, here's a shot at the underside of the chain holes.
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BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Awesome! Your attention to detail is the best.
Vernmotor
Well-known member
Looks Great !!
Thanks guys. This one has been lingering for way too long. But I'm really enjoying using all the controls though, so I guess it was all worth it.
HAPPY EASTER to you and yours, and anyone else that wanders into this thread today. Go easy on the candy!
akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
Job well done. It's nice to be able to work on theses types of projects and even better to enjoy them when they perform as intended.
Job well done. It's nice to be able to work on theses types of projects and even better to enjoy them when they perform as intended.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
And a Happy Easter to you and your family!
Nice work on finishing the panel wall. You just would not have been satisfied until you put that icing on the cake!
Open forums like this are just the right opportunities to offer up ideas that the builder might not have originally thought of, like my idea of the brushes or Vernmotor's design for sound rating a compressor. If we builders wouldn't post progress updates as we build, others can't offer ideas to make our builds better than we ever imagined. I guess I never really thought about how many workshops and garages have been perfected because of Ryan's idea to create Garage Journal...
BTW, I do have a lead on low profile LED strip lights that can go under the lift rails and light up the lower level like daylight!
Nice work on finishing the panel wall. You just would not have been satisfied until you put that icing on the cake!
Open forums like this are just the right opportunities to offer up ideas that the builder might not have originally thought of, like my idea of the brushes or Vernmotor's design for sound rating a compressor. If we builders wouldn't post progress updates as we build, others can't offer ideas to make our builds better than we ever imagined. I guess I never really thought about how many workshops and garages have been perfected because of Ryan's idea to create Garage Journal...
BTW, I do have a lead on low profile LED strip lights that can go under the lift rails and light up the lower level like daylight!
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Please share your lead Wingnut. Thanks!
Wingnut65
Well-known member
BlackSheep, my lighting rep brought a rep from WAC Lighting Company to our office with a display showing their Indoor InvisiLED® Tape Light. I was impressed at the amount of light coming from the 12v and 24v systems and how flexible it could be to work with.
Here's a sample of some above the cabinets
I could see a couple small strips of this lighting under shopnut's lift to light up the whole area.
Here's a sample of some above the cabinets
I could see a couple small strips of this lighting under shopnut's lift to light up the whole area.
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Thank you, now I need to get shopnut to do it first so I can see what awesome install set up he designs, lol.
akdiesel - Thanks. You know as well as I that it's a great feeling wrapping up these projects.
Wingnut65 - Thanks. And yes, I have soooooo much to thank GJ for… An ever expanding project list, countless hours wasted on the computer perusing the forum, and lusting after tools I never even heard of before – yeah the last 8 years on the forum has been great!
Seriously, I think the biggest benefit I have received is the desire to keep going on with the build. I may have quit years ago without the support from the folks here.
BlackSheepSpeedShop (and Wingnut65) – That WAC lighting looks like some really nice stuff! But before I buy anything new for the lift, I plan to try out some sample 24V LED rope lights I had sitting on the shelf for many years now. You can cut it into desired lengths to fit your needs. And I have a box of 24V power adapters (wall warts) to go with it. I was waiting to try it until I got a bit further on my rolling jack because the idea works somewhat in conjunction with that. I even found some protector tube (Wingnut65 - you probably tripped over some of it at Skycraft) that will keep it from getting all beat up while working on the cars. This will serve as general undercarriage lighting.
You guys now have me thinking about down lighting to the floor when the lift is up (hadn’t considered that!). I find lately that with all that new space under there and plenty of head room with the car lifted, I tend to temporarily spread projects out on the floor to work on them there, and some light shining down there would be beneficial. So the plan will now include up AND down lighting. Add another task to the list!
Wingnut65 - Thanks. And yes, I have soooooo much to thank GJ for… An ever expanding project list, countless hours wasted on the computer perusing the forum, and lusting after tools I never even heard of before – yeah the last 8 years on the forum has been great!
Seriously, I think the biggest benefit I have received is the desire to keep going on with the build. I may have quit years ago without the support from the folks here.
BlackSheepSpeedShop (and Wingnut65) – That WAC lighting looks like some really nice stuff! But before I buy anything new for the lift, I plan to try out some sample 24V LED rope lights I had sitting on the shelf for many years now. You can cut it into desired lengths to fit your needs. And I have a box of 24V power adapters (wall warts) to go with it. I was waiting to try it until I got a bit further on my rolling jack because the idea works somewhat in conjunction with that. I even found some protector tube (Wingnut65 - you probably tripped over some of it at Skycraft) that will keep it from getting all beat up while working on the cars. This will serve as general undercarriage lighting.
You guys now have me thinking about down lighting to the floor when the lift is up (hadn’t considered that!). I find lately that with all that new space under there and plenty of head room with the car lifted, I tend to temporarily spread projects out on the floor to work on them there, and some light shining down there would be beneficial. So the plan will now include up AND down lighting. Add another task to the list!
SNAPPED OFF TREE…
We had some high winds the other week that claimed another tree.
I had been keeping an eye on this tree since before the Asylum was built because it was damaged during the construction process. The red arrow points to the gash in the tree that was made by the excavator backing into it before the place was finished. It’s this gash where the split originated. It had been oozing sap there since it happened, but I never thought it would bring the whole tree down someday. I included a recent view from a similar vantage point inside.
AND WHILE I WAS AT IT…
Since I had the chainsaw fired up, I decided to cut down that 70' tall Hickory tree that died last fall. It was really dry and mostly just flattened out when it slammed to the ground.
I finally found a good use for the wood besides rotting and becoming worm food. A buddy of mine supplies hickory and other select woods to local restaurants for their open pit BBQ’s. It’s cool to think that someday, I may be eating a tasty steak that was grilled over my tree.
We had some high winds the other week that claimed another tree.
I had been keeping an eye on this tree since before the Asylum was built because it was damaged during the construction process. The red arrow points to the gash in the tree that was made by the excavator backing into it before the place was finished. It’s this gash where the split originated. It had been oozing sap there since it happened, but I never thought it would bring the whole tree down someday. I included a recent view from a similar vantage point inside.
AND WHILE I WAS AT IT…
Since I had the chainsaw fired up, I decided to cut down that 70' tall Hickory tree that died last fall. It was really dry and mostly just flattened out when it slammed to the ground.
I finally found a good use for the wood besides rotting and becoming worm food. A buddy of mine supplies hickory and other select woods to local restaurants for their open pit BBQ’s. It’s cool to think that someday, I may be eating a tasty steak that was grilled over my tree.
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gordyy
Well-known member
repurposing is getting to be more and more a way of life
I like the idea of eating a nice piece of meat smoked and cooked off some deadwood from the property!!
I like the idea of eating a nice piece of meat smoked and cooked off some deadwood from the property!!
Yeah, I need to find out what restaurants the guy ends up selling it to.
I’LL BE ADDING SOME MISC STRIPING AROUND THE SHOP SOON…
Although I have a large 24” roll of magnetic material, I found some really cheap 2” wide magnetic strip. The checked tape will be applied to that and then I can stick that on any steel surface I want to. The nice thing about doing it this way is I can peel it off without having to deal with any sticky residue being left behind. And this makes it easy to try it in different places to see what looks best.
The yellow version is reflective and I think it would work well to outline the big door openings.
ACCESS TO THE CRANE HOIST…
I’m including these pictures to show that the windows in the stairway are not just to have a cool view down into the shop as you are coming down from the office. They serve another purpose. The manlift was somewhat buried in another corner of the shop, so when I needed to do some maintenance on the chain hoist, I just reached out the window to do it. I get to the dual faced clock this way too.
Although I have a large 24” roll of magnetic material, I found some really cheap 2” wide magnetic strip. The checked tape will be applied to that and then I can stick that on any steel surface I want to. The nice thing about doing it this way is I can peel it off without having to deal with any sticky residue being left behind. And this makes it easy to try it in different places to see what looks best.
The yellow version is reflective and I think it would work well to outline the big door openings.
ACCESS TO THE CRANE HOIST…
I’m including these pictures to show that the windows in the stairway are not just to have a cool view down into the shop as you are coming down from the office. They serve another purpose. The manlift was somewhat buried in another corner of the shop, so when I needed to do some maintenance on the chain hoist, I just reached out the window to do it. I get to the dual faced clock this way too.
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AN AUTOMATIC DRAIN FOR THE AIR COMPRESSOR…
This is what happens when I skip a week of working in the Asylum – I have way too much time to overdesign things and search ebay for used parts to make that crazy design a reality. I probably went a little overboard on this one, but as long as the tank stays dry, I will be happy.
Here is a simple little sketch of the system. The little tee-shaped things are 3-way solenoid valves. They basically flow through two ports when at rest (de-energized), and when energized, the flow is directed to the other port. The red allows indicate the free flow path and an “X” represents a blocked port. The line I label as “PRESSURE” is seeing air tank pressure and the line labeled “DRAIN” is free to drip out to the bucket.
The “airlock” will only occur for an instant since the valves energize simultaneously. The intent is to give the water a place to collect at any given time besides the bottom of the air tank. The other intent is that while one path is collecting water, the other is draining it. Valves will switch state every time I switch on or switch off the shop air loop, and this will likely occur twice a day when I’m visiting the Asylum.
Here are the actual valves to be used along with some example plumbing. I paid $42 delivered to the door for this NOS pair on ebay, which is pretty good considering they run about $90 each normally.
My big concern is that the flow paths are pretty small and could clog easily, but time will tell if that’s an issue. On the flip side, the valves have manual overrides in them to allow me to blast air out if I suspect a clog or something.
Here are the parts hooked up as shown in the diagram.
This is what happens when I skip a week of working in the Asylum – I have way too much time to overdesign things and search ebay for used parts to make that crazy design a reality. I probably went a little overboard on this one, but as long as the tank stays dry, I will be happy.
Here is a simple little sketch of the system. The little tee-shaped things are 3-way solenoid valves. They basically flow through two ports when at rest (de-energized), and when energized, the flow is directed to the other port. The red allows indicate the free flow path and an “X” represents a blocked port. The line I label as “PRESSURE” is seeing air tank pressure and the line labeled “DRAIN” is free to drip out to the bucket.
The “airlock” will only occur for an instant since the valves energize simultaneously. The intent is to give the water a place to collect at any given time besides the bottom of the air tank. The other intent is that while one path is collecting water, the other is draining it. Valves will switch state every time I switch on or switch off the shop air loop, and this will likely occur twice a day when I’m visiting the Asylum.
Here are the actual valves to be used along with some example plumbing. I paid $42 delivered to the door for this NOS pair on ebay, which is pretty good considering they run about $90 each normally.
My big concern is that the flow paths are pretty small and could clog easily, but time will tell if that’s an issue. On the flip side, the valves have manual overrides in them to allow me to blast air out if I suspect a clog or something.
Here are the parts hooked up as shown in the diagram.
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akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
Very lucky about the tree. I always say Murphy is my co-pilot (kind of a pessimist) but I have been bitten so many times with things I have procrastinated with.
Nice work on the drain system also. That is another one of those procrastination things I don't do, But I am lucky in that we are nowhere near your humidity level.
What about an inline filter of some sort on the single line from the tank. I know Swagelok makes nice inline filters that you can change or clean the filters and they make different microns as well. You could find them on Ebay for a much better price then new.
Very lucky about the tree. I always say Murphy is my co-pilot (kind of a pessimist) but I have been bitten so many times with things I have procrastinated with.
Nice work on the drain system also. That is another one of those procrastination things I don't do, But I am lucky in that we are nowhere near your humidity level.
What about an inline filter of some sort on the single line from the tank. I know Swagelok makes nice inline filters that you can change or clean the filters and they make different microns as well. You could find them on Ebay for a much better price then new.
Yeah, I've taken a few flights with Murphy before. Usually doesn't end well. Sometimes it's best to be proactive.
Good thinking on the filter. I took your suggestion and just ordered one like this by Parker with a sintered bronze filter in it. It was just under $10 delivered. I will give it a try on the bottom of the tank to see how much gunk collects in it. I'm hoping air and water will pass freely through it (at least until it clogs
)
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Give an engineer a little time and he will design something to solve a problem that nobody realized that they have! Wow! A pair of 3-way solenoid valves to drain a compressor tank!
For the inline filter that akd mentioned, I envisioned a visible fuel filter type filter in the drain line, between the tank and the first solenoid. It looks like the Parker one is for the air line between the tank and the tool, or spray gun, or...
BTW, if it makes you feel any better, it is written that Murphy's Law was not actually written by Murphy, but by another man with the same last name!
For the inline filter that akd mentioned, I envisioned a visible fuel filter type filter in the drain line, between the tank and the first solenoid. It looks like the Parker one is for the air line between the tank and the tool, or spray gun, or...
BTW, if it makes you feel any better, it is written that Murphy's Law was not actually written by Murphy, but by another man with the same last name!
Funny you should mention that. A filter I could visually inspect w/o taking it apart is EXACTLY what I was searching for. Unfortunately, what I found is that any of that type in my price range (under $20) were only rated for 90 psi. Many cheapies didn’t even have a rating so I steered clear of those. This filter will be exposed to 125 psi tank pressure on a continuous basis. The one I decided on is good for 500psi, so no problem there. Everything is a compromise, I guess.Give an engineer a little time and he will design something to solve a problem that nobody realized that they have! Wow! A pair of 3-way solenoid valves to drain a compressor tank!
For the inline filter that akd mentioned, I envisioned a visible fuel filter type filter in the drain line, between the tank and the first solenoid. It looks like the Parker one is for the air line between the tank and the tool, or spray gun, or...
BTW, if it makes you feel any better, it is written that Murphy's Law was not actually written by Murphy, but by another man with the same last name!
I think these are the Swagelok versions akdiesel was originally suggesting. At least, it’s what I found on ebay in my price range. Available in SS and brass. They looked real nice, but I decided to save a few bucks on an NPT version first to give this whole theory a try. My R&D funds are limited, you know
.
akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
Actually this was the type of filter I was thinking of.
[/URL][/IMG]. We use these a lot to clean our hydraulics and they are easy to remove the filter and clean or replace, but a visible filter would be a nice touch.
Actually this was the type of filter I was thinking of.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
I forgot about the drain line being under pressure. Makes sense now.
Keep on engineering!
Keep on engineering!
Honestly, I couldn't stop even if I tried!
TAKING AN AIR COMPRESSOR TO NEW HEIGHTS (Part 1)…
I decided leaving the air compressor on the floor is not the greatest use of easily accessible space, so a shelf was built for it about 4 feet off the ground. This will allow room for a cabinet below, which will probably store air tools and related items.
There is plenty of strength in the wall to do it. Here is an early construction picture showing the spot where the compressor is mounting (see arrow). Besides the 6x6 main column between the doors, there is also a 4x6 post framing out each roll-up door to either side of it.
The rear foot of the compressor will mount alongside the center column and this bracket will support it below. It’s 1/2" thick and those are 3/8” lag screws in case you are wondering.
I had a rectangular piece of 3/4” thick plywood left over from another project that when sliced diagonally, became the perfect side gussets.
Here is the rough platform ready for a trial fit. As a test, I climbed up there and jumped as hard as I could. I think I heard it laughing at me (or maybe that was the neighbor).
The plywood extends back into the wall on the right side of the center column and that blue bracket is located under that extension. Also note that the center column is not centered on this wall and that’s what is allowing me to position the compressor rear foot into the wall about 3”. In doing so, it will keep the cabinet from sticking out into the room another 3”.
I decided leaving the air compressor on the floor is not the greatest use of easily accessible space, so a shelf was built for it about 4 feet off the ground. This will allow room for a cabinet below, which will probably store air tools and related items.
There is plenty of strength in the wall to do it. Here is an early construction picture showing the spot where the compressor is mounting (see arrow). Besides the 6x6 main column between the doors, there is also a 4x6 post framing out each roll-up door to either side of it.
The rear foot of the compressor will mount alongside the center column and this bracket will support it below. It’s 1/2" thick and those are 3/8” lag screws in case you are wondering.
I had a rectangular piece of 3/4” thick plywood left over from another project that when sliced diagonally, became the perfect side gussets.
Here is the rough platform ready for a trial fit. As a test, I climbed up there and jumped as hard as I could. I think I heard it laughing at me (or maybe that was the neighbor
). The plywood extends back into the wall on the right side of the center column and that blue bracket is located under that extension. Also note that the center column is not centered on this wall and that’s what is allowing me to position the compressor rear foot into the wall about 3”. In doing so, it will keep the cabinet from sticking out into the room another 3”.
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Wingnut65
Well-known member
A 6x6 column with 1/2" steel bracket to hold up your compressor! Wow, when you take down the compressor, you can just hang the Avalanche up there to get it out of the way!
BTW, was the wall open like that, or did some vinyl have to come down?
BTW, was the wall open like that, or did some vinyl have to come down?