JCQuick
Well-known member
Did the storm comethru tonight and make something fall and hit your head? I may be wrong and thats real possible but wouldin't noise vibration be an issue?
Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Wingnut65 - LOL. Yeah, sort of overkill on some of the structure. But I usually use what I have on hand and I have a whole box full of those blue brackets to use somewhere. I would've been fine with something half that size.
That wall was one of two that was still waiting to be finished off. The timing was right for me to fall into the compressor deal and help me decide what to do with this section. The last wall unfinished wall is in the corner by the exterior man door - not sure what will get installed there yet.
JCQuick - Well, I never claim to have all my screws tight in this head.
Noise/vibration was a primary concern when I made the decision to hang the compressor on the wall. Although they go hand in hand, I'm attacking the noise and vibration in two different ways.
I was pleasantly surprised when I fired up the compressor for the first time with some special mounts under it and I think the vibration thing is already licked.
I will play the noise thing by ear, literally. The compressor is pretty quiet (relatively speaking), but if it needs some suppression, I will use some of the fine suggestions given here to deal with it. Most likely I will move forward with something just to integrate it while the construction is underway. It would be harder to add something after the fact.
The report on the trial compressor run should be posted tonight if I get it all together.
That wall was one of two that was still waiting to be finished off. The timing was right for me to fall into the compressor deal and help me decide what to do with this section. The last wall unfinished wall is in the corner by the exterior man door - not sure what will get installed there yet.
JCQuick - Well, I never claim to have all my screws tight in this head.
Noise/vibration was a primary concern when I made the decision to hang the compressor on the wall. Although they go hand in hand, I'm attacking the noise and vibration in two different ways. I was pleasantly surprised when I fired up the compressor for the first time with some special mounts under it and I think the vibration thing is already licked.
I will play the noise thing by ear, literally. The compressor is pretty quiet (relatively speaking), but if it needs some suppression, I will use some of the fine suggestions given here to deal with it. Most likely I will move forward with something just to integrate it while the construction is underway. It would be harder to add something after the fact.
The report on the trial compressor run should be posted tonight if I get it all together.
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TAKING AN AIR COMPRESSOR TO NEW HEIGHTS (Part 2)…
After the shelf passed my quick jump test, it was time for a trial fit of the compressor. Luckily, there was a pretty substantial anchor point above to hang the chain hoist from.
After removing the shelf from the platform so I could lift it straight up, I wheeled the compressor over into position.
And it's Up…
Up, and away it went. In this picture, it was still hanging by the chain.
I then slide the shelf back in. With a little foresight, I could have used the roller cart base board as my shelf, but oh well – it started as a scrap of plywood too.
These rubber mounts isolate the vibration. There are made by Mason and are p/n “ND-A-Red”. Rating is 60-125 pounds each. And the compressor supposedly weighs 250 pounds (83 pounds per each of the 3 feet)
This was just a trial fit, but I got a chance to run the pump a bit while up there. These rubber mounts did a fantastic job of isolating the vibration. I was worried about the wall rattling and the doors making a lot of noise in their tracks (a strong breeze can make the doors rattle!). I felt only a very slight vibration on the shelf board on which the compressor sat and nothing anywhere beyond that.
The only downside to the iso-mounts is they let the top of the compressor move around quite a bit (like +/- 1 inch in all directions), so I will stabilize that somehow with a little strut connecting between the pump/motor base and the wall. The next higher capacity mount is a ND-B-Green (75-150 pound rating), and I’m tempted to try it instead if I wasn’t leery of it not physically fitting in the compressor foot. I will probably leave well enough alone, for a change.
Here is the list of available options for the mounts.
After the shelf passed my quick jump test, it was time for a trial fit of the compressor. Luckily, there was a pretty substantial anchor point above to hang the chain hoist from.
After removing the shelf from the platform so I could lift it straight up, I wheeled the compressor over into position.
And it's Up…
Up, and away it went. In this picture, it was still hanging by the chain.
I then slide the shelf back in. With a little foresight, I could have used the roller cart base board as my shelf, but oh well – it started as a scrap of plywood too.
These rubber mounts isolate the vibration. There are made by Mason and are p/n “ND-A-Red”. Rating is 60-125 pounds each. And the compressor supposedly weighs 250 pounds (83 pounds per each of the 3 feet)
This was just a trial fit, but I got a chance to run the pump a bit while up there. These rubber mounts did a fantastic job of isolating the vibration. I was worried about the wall rattling and the doors making a lot of noise in their tracks (a strong breeze can make the doors rattle!). I felt only a very slight vibration on the shelf board on which the compressor sat and nothing anywhere beyond that.
The only downside to the iso-mounts is they let the top of the compressor move around quite a bit (like +/- 1 inch in all directions), so I will stabilize that somehow with a little strut connecting between the pump/motor base and the wall. The next higher capacity mount is a ND-B-Green (75-150 pound rating), and I’m tempted to try it instead if I wasn’t leery of it not physically fitting in the compressor foot. I will probably leave well enough alone, for a change.
Here is the list of available options for the mounts.
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akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
Actually the snap ring simply holds the sealing surface on the nut. You just have to use a wrench to loosen the nut then unscrew the cap and remove the filter.
Thanks for the clarification. Still beats unscrewing an NPT joint just to check the filter inside, like I'll have to do
A person of few words... but I like it! Thank you very much for stopping in.
Dugan
Well-known member
Started reading your thread, Now i dont feel like the only engineer with crazy ideas. Except, unlike me youve implemented them.
I have to guess.. electrical engineer?
I have to guess.. electrical engineer?
I guess you were just smart enough not to waste time implementing them!
I'm degreed in Mechanical Engineering, with a focus on Machine Design. But my job has thrown everything at me from structural design to control systems of our equipment - keeps it very interesting. The diversity of projects has kept me content with the same employer for the last 22 years now.
Thanks for stopping by the old Asylum.
A POWERED SHUTOFF VALVE FOR THE AIR TANK...
Before you report me to NASA – No, the following part wasn’t stolen from the space shuttle. It’s simply an air actuated ball valve that will shut off pressure to the shop air loop when not needed. The intent is to isolate the stored air in the tank from any small leaks in the rest of the system and hopefully retain pressure for weeks without running the pump. That small bent SS tube will be removed.
This valve uses air pressure to open and close the stainless steel ball valve. It is accomplished by a rotary actuator and an electric solenoid valve (brass thing) will allow air pressure to overpower the springs and open it when energized. It is spring actuated to the closed position when the valve is de-energized. They make full electric actuated valves, but this just looked so much cooler, I had to have it. It set me back $50 on ebay, and I feel that was a great deal for this high quality part. It looks a little dusty, but I don’t think it was ever used.
Here are some cutaway views to show the internal parts of the air powered rotary actuator that opens the ball valve. (Courtesy of the Radius LLC website http://www.radius-eng.com/) There are two pistons moving a rack and pinion inside there to rotate the output shaft, and ultimately, the valve shank.
I ran into a snag when it showed up, however. I was expecting the solenoid valve to be 110VAC, when in fact it was 24VDC. Not knowing this, I hooked it up to house power. The solenoid made a terrible buzzing noise. I later found out it was the internals of the valve slamming back and forth at 60hz making all the racket (Ouch!). I later hooked it up to my 24VDC powers source and the ball valve opened fine.
Another thing I didn’t like was that it took about 70 psi at the actuator to open the ball valve. What this means is if the air tank didn’t have at least 70 psi in it, I was not going to have ANY air out at the reels. It had all 12 return spring inside, and my hunch was that not all are needed to close the ball valve. The manual gives directions on how to remove some of them.
So I removed half of them to reduce the required opening pressure and it dropped to 40 psi and that seems fine because any lower than that really isn't good for much around the shop.
I still have a backup plan if this ball valve setup just becomes a coffee table decoration. Earlier, I purchased this diaphragm valve that will be a suitable alternative. It was brand new and I picked it up for $10.
While a ball valve has a clear flow path…
... the diaphragm valve has a somewhat convoluted path that restricts flow a bit as air flows over the wall inside. I think they are still considered “high flow” valves, however, so it’s not a bad second choice for the shutoff valve. I think it only takes about 3 psi to open itself once the solenoid is energized.
Here’s a section view diaphragm valve.
Before you report me to NASA – No, the following part wasn’t stolen from the space shuttle.
It’s simply an air actuated ball valve that will shut off pressure to the shop air loop when not needed. The intent is to isolate the stored air in the tank from any small leaks in the rest of the system and hopefully retain pressure for weeks without running the pump. That small bent SS tube will be removed.This valve uses air pressure to open and close the stainless steel ball valve. It is accomplished by a rotary actuator and an electric solenoid valve (brass thing) will allow air pressure to overpower the springs and open it when energized. It is spring actuated to the closed position when the valve is de-energized. They make full electric actuated valves, but this just looked so much cooler, I had to have it. It set me back $50 on ebay, and I feel that was a great deal for this high quality part. It looks a little dusty, but I don’t think it was ever used.
Here are some cutaway views to show the internal parts of the air powered rotary actuator that opens the ball valve. (Courtesy of the Radius LLC website http://www.radius-eng.com/) There are two pistons moving a rack and pinion inside there to rotate the output shaft, and ultimately, the valve shank.
I ran into a snag when it showed up, however. I was expecting the solenoid valve to be 110VAC, when in fact it was 24VDC. Not knowing this, I hooked it up to house power. The solenoid made a terrible buzzing noise. I later found out it was the internals of the valve slamming back and forth at 60hz making all the racket (Ouch!). I later hooked it up to my 24VDC powers source and the ball valve opened fine.
Another thing I didn’t like was that it took about 70 psi at the actuator to open the ball valve. What this means is if the air tank didn’t have at least 70 psi in it, I was not going to have ANY air out at the reels. It had all 12 return spring inside, and my hunch was that not all are needed to close the ball valve. The manual gives directions on how to remove some of them.
So I removed half of them to reduce the required opening pressure and it dropped to 40 psi and that seems fine because any lower than that really isn't good for much around the shop.
I still have a backup plan if this ball valve setup just becomes a coffee table decoration. Earlier, I purchased this diaphragm valve that will be a suitable alternative. It was brand new and I picked it up for $10.
While a ball valve has a clear flow path…
... the diaphragm valve has a somewhat convoluted path that restricts flow a bit as air flows over the wall inside. I think they are still considered “high flow” valves, however, so it’s not a bad second choice for the shutoff valve. I think it only takes about 3 psi to open itself once the solenoid is energized.
Here’s a section view diaphragm valve.
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
You done thought too much about this !~
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
I just knew you would not let me down! Lol, when do you wamma take a working vacation to Fort Worth Texas?
Vernmotor – Over-thinking it - that’s sort of the theme around here lately . I need to get back to building instead of dreaming, because the dreaming (and the buying that goes with it) is costing me a small fortune!
BTW, do you remember what CFM your compressor ventilation fan was? I have a choice between a 50, 100, 1nd 160 that could work. The 160 is already in my possession, but I think the 6" duct will be harder for me to deal with in my tight area.
BlackSheepSpeedShop – Fort Worth would be a nice little bike ride. I've been known to work for beer and food!
Other commitments have made it slow going at the Asylum lately and it's driving me crazy
. I hope to pick up the pace again soon.
. I need to get back to building instead of dreaming, because the dreaming (and the buying that goes with it) is costing me a small fortune! BTW, do you remember what CFM your compressor ventilation fan was? I have a choice between a 50, 100, 1nd 160 that could work. The 160 is already in my possession, but I think the 6" duct will be harder for me to deal with in my tight area.
BlackSheepSpeedShop – Fort Worth would be a nice little bike ride. I've been known to work for beer and food!
Other commitments have made it slow going at the Asylum lately and it's driving me crazy
. I hope to pick up the pace again soon.MAINTENANCE ON THE COMPRESSOR…
When I took the compressor down off the shelf after the trial run, I decided to do any maintenance it needed before it goes up for the final time.
I had no idea when the pump oil was last changed in the new-to-me compressor so I went ahead and changed it. The manual said use compressor oil or Mobil-1 to avoid deposits on the valves. During an oil change is the perfect time to install an extension pipe, making future ones less of a mess.
Rather than just add a pipe with a cap at the end, I used a pipe coupling and a plug at the end. This serves two purposes. First, two wrenches can be used right there by the plug to remove it without the risk of unscrewing the pipe out of the pump casing. And second, the coupling provides just enough of a lip for a small drain bucket bail to hang on.
A new intake filter element was installed. It basically looks like a thick piece of felt. If I expected more dust around here, I would consider installing a larger filter.
I also bought a new belt, but decided to leave the old one on for a while since it looked nearly new. I always try to have extra V-belts on hand so I’m not shutdown in the middle of a job while trying to buy one.
FLUSH MOUNT GAUGES FOR A COMPRESSOR CONTROL PANEL…
I was looking for some black bezel gauges to mount flush on my compressor cabinet, and at $12 each, these fit the bill. I'm not sure what the control panel will look like yet, but I will try to keep it pretty minimal.
When I took the compressor down off the shelf after the trial run, I decided to do any maintenance it needed before it goes up for the final time.
I had no idea when the pump oil was last changed in the new-to-me compressor so I went ahead and changed it. The manual said use compressor oil or Mobil-1 to avoid deposits on the valves. During an oil change is the perfect time to install an extension pipe, making future ones less of a mess.
Rather than just add a pipe with a cap at the end, I used a pipe coupling and a plug at the end. This serves two purposes. First, two wrenches can be used right there by the plug to remove it without the risk of unscrewing the pipe out of the pump casing. And second, the coupling provides just enough of a lip for a small drain bucket bail to hang on.
A new intake filter element was installed. It basically looks like a thick piece of felt. If I expected more dust around here, I would consider installing a larger filter.
I also bought a new belt, but decided to leave the old one on for a while since it looked nearly new. I always try to have extra V-belts on hand so I’m not shutdown in the middle of a job while trying to buy one.
FLUSH MOUNT GAUGES FOR A COMPRESSOR CONTROL PANEL…
I was looking for some black bezel gauges to mount flush on my compressor cabinet, and at $12 each, these fit the bill. I'm not sure what the control panel will look like yet, but I will try to keep it pretty minimal.
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JCQuick
Well-known member
did you really just say control panel for a compressor. 
Oh my you really are beyond saving 
engineer taking it too far
Oh my you really are beyond saving engineer taking it too far BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
I wanna see this compressor control panel!!!! Hour meter? Would u build and ship?
akdiesel
Well-known member
Shopnut and his devious plan.
shopnut
How well did the mount work for you? Was there lots of vibration through out the frame work?
Wingnut65
Well-known member
AKD, he's getting closer every project...^^
Compressors have pump oil????
I guess I have a project this weekend. Besides the annual draining the compressor that I do every few years, I now have more to check on!
Compressors have pump oil????
I guess I have a project this weekend. Besides the annual draining the compressor that I do every few years, I now have more to check on!
JCQuick - Taking it too far? Hey, they don't let me do it at work, I have to do it SOMEWHERE!
BlackSheepSpeedShop - With my limited time lately, I need to resort to a “show YOU how to do it so you can build one that perfectly fits your own needs” kind of guy. Don’t get too excited about the panel. So far it will just be a couple gauges, a timer, and now maybe an hourmeter (thanks for that suggestion) mounted in the paneling surrounding my compressor cabinet.
I guess that hourmeter needs to be hooked directly to the motor leads for it to record pump run time and that means it will need to be 220V (or maybe 110V connected to one hot leg). Time to do some shopping for a cheap resettable AC voltage hourmeter!
akdiesel - Haha. Rest assured, no humans will be harmed by Evil Dr. Shopnut’s plan! (although, he may do himself in) Maybe I should make my upstairs office look like that picture 
I was absolutely amazed at the difference those iso-mounts made. There was just a slight vibration in the plywood base it was resting on. Mission accomplished for a price of $39.
Wingnut65 – Too funny. Seriously, you really might consider draining your tank a little more frequently if you use it much or want to the tank to survive as long as possible in this humid environment. I had one tank rust out on me so far, and it just seems like such a waste because the pump and motor probably have lots of life in them yet.
Some compressors have oil, some don’t. This was swiped from the Lumberjocks website:
**************
Oil-free compressors have pumps that are directly linked to the motor. A teflon-coated cylinder sleeve and piston ring result in very little friction between the Teflon parts, eliminating the need for oil. Some advantages of oil-free design are no messy oil spills, cleaner output air and no maintenance except for intake air filter. The teflon piston ring and cylinder are easily and economically replaceable resulting in extended compressor life. Oil-free compressors are also lighter in weight.
Oil-lubricated compressors have pumps that use an aluminum crankcase and head for improved heat dissipation, cast iron cylinder sleeves, and automotive style pistons and compression rings. Some advantages of the lubricated design include aluminum components that are noncorrosive, lightweight and improve heat dissipation. Of course, this pump does require oil and some maintenance. There you have it, now the choice is yours!
*****************
Let me add to this that not all direct drive compressors are oilless (or lube-less). My 4G/2hp unit has a direct drive motor, but requires oil. It has a sight glass so you can check it easily. I think it is also safe to say that any belt driven compressor (at least a typical one a homeowner might have) generally has an oil-lubed pump. I don’t agree that ALL lubricated pumps have aluminum crankcases since some are cast iron.
BlackSheepSpeedShop - With my limited time lately, I need to resort to a “show YOU how to do it so you can build one that perfectly fits your own needs” kind of guy.
Don’t get too excited about the panel. So far it will just be a couple gauges, a timer, and now maybe an hourmeter (thanks for that suggestion) mounted in the paneling surrounding my compressor cabinet. I guess that hourmeter needs to be hooked directly to the motor leads for it to record pump run time and that means it will need to be 220V (or maybe 110V connected to one hot leg). Time to do some shopping for a cheap resettable AC voltage hourmeter!
akdiesel - Haha. Rest assured, no humans will be harmed by Evil Dr. Shopnut’s plan! (although, he may do himself in
) Maybe I should make my upstairs office look like that picture I was absolutely amazed at the difference those iso-mounts made. There was just a slight vibration in the plywood base it was resting on. Mission accomplished for a price of $39.
Wingnut65 – Too funny. Seriously, you really might consider draining your tank a little more frequently if you use it much or want to the tank to survive as long as possible in this humid environment. I had one tank rust out on me so far, and it just seems like such a waste because the pump and motor probably have lots of life in them yet.
Some compressors have oil, some don’t. This was swiped from the Lumberjocks website:
**************
Oil-free compressors have pumps that are directly linked to the motor. A teflon-coated cylinder sleeve and piston ring result in very little friction between the Teflon parts, eliminating the need for oil. Some advantages of oil-free design are no messy oil spills, cleaner output air and no maintenance except for intake air filter. The teflon piston ring and cylinder are easily and economically replaceable resulting in extended compressor life. Oil-free compressors are also lighter in weight.
Oil-lubricated compressors have pumps that use an aluminum crankcase and head for improved heat dissipation, cast iron cylinder sleeves, and automotive style pistons and compression rings. Some advantages of the lubricated design include aluminum components that are noncorrosive, lightweight and improve heat dissipation. Of course, this pump does require oil and some maintenance. There you have it, now the choice is yours!
*****************
Let me add to this that not all direct drive compressors are oilless (or lube-less). My 4G/2hp unit has a direct drive motor, but requires oil. It has a sight glass so you can check it easily. I think it is also safe to say that any belt driven compressor (at least a typical one a homeowner might have) generally has an oil-lubed pump. I don’t agree that ALL lubricated pumps have aluminum crankcases since some are cast iron.
BTW, Thanks to the member that took time to rate this thread. It sat at 109 for a long time and it's always great to see it go up. What it means in the grand scheme of things, I don't really know. But I'm compelled to check it every time I visit the site. Yeah, crazy, I know.
A SLIGHT CHANGE IN DIRECTION ON COMPRESSOR CONTROL…
I thought of a better way to control the air compressor functions and it includes two timers, both of which I’ve had on hand for some time (it’s always good to use up stuff that’s collecting dust). Earlier, I showed you the big timer that will power up the compressor pump on its 220VAC circuit. This will still be used and I won’t repeat that discussion. I also mentioned using a sprinkler timer to control the condensate drain on the tank, and that’s the idea I have now scrapped because I came up with something better for my needs.
I was planning to wire in the air loop shutoff valve with the same 220V switch contacts that power up the compressor pump. At first, it seemed like the right thing to do – anytime the pump is free to run, air would be allowed to flow to the shop. But with our discussion of the tank retaining pressure for weeks, I realized independent control was the way to go because that 60 gallon tank may have plenty of pressure remaining to not even need to run the pump on a given weekend. Small jobs like opening the power windows, topping off a mower tire, etc. could be accomplished with just residual tank pressure for weeks at a time.
I have used a handful of the spring-wound 12-hour countdown timers for a number of applications and I think one will work nicely here. I will use it to control a 120V circuit which powers the shop loop shutoff valve and the drain valves. I would prefer the drain system be on the 220V circuit since it really is only needed when the pump is running, but cycling it a bit more often on the 120V system won’t hurt and it might even be better to keep it from clogging.
The spring-wound timers look like the following picture and you basically wind them to the desired time you think the powered device should stay on. In my case, the 12 hour versions work nicely for a full day’s work and it shuts off automatically when spring winds down at the end of the day.
Here is the one I have controlling my shop exhaust fan.
This scenario is not new to me concerning compressor control and I had one of my old ones rigged up this way for years.
I thought of a better way to control the air compressor functions and it includes two timers, both of which I’ve had on hand for some time (it’s always good to use up stuff that’s collecting dust). Earlier, I showed you the big timer that will power up the compressor pump on its 220VAC circuit. This will still be used and I won’t repeat that discussion. I also mentioned using a sprinkler timer to control the condensate drain on the tank, and that’s the idea I have now scrapped because I came up with something better for my needs.
I was planning to wire in the air loop shutoff valve with the same 220V switch contacts that power up the compressor pump. At first, it seemed like the right thing to do – anytime the pump is free to run, air would be allowed to flow to the shop. But with our discussion of the tank retaining pressure for weeks, I realized independent control was the way to go because that 60 gallon tank may have plenty of pressure remaining to not even need to run the pump on a given weekend. Small jobs like opening the power windows, topping off a mower tire, etc. could be accomplished with just residual tank pressure for weeks at a time.
I have used a handful of the spring-wound 12-hour countdown timers for a number of applications and I think one will work nicely here. I will use it to control a 120V circuit which powers the shop loop shutoff valve and the drain valves. I would prefer the drain system be on the 220V circuit since it really is only needed when the pump is running, but cycling it a bit more often on the 120V system won’t hurt and it might even be better to keep it from clogging.
The spring-wound timers look like the following picture and you basically wind them to the desired time you think the powered device should stay on. In my case, the 12 hour versions work nicely for a full day’s work and it shuts off automatically when spring winds down at the end of the day.
Here is the one I have controlling my shop exhaust fan.
This scenario is not new to me concerning compressor control and I had one of my old ones rigged up this way for years.
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BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
We are all waiting for "over engineering" lol
jahead
Member
I just saw the Dobro's hanging on your wall.. I just started playing one due to a ligament tear in my index finger. Can't do any bar chords on the guitar or mandolin for now. My wifey bought me a Beard square neck for Christmas. I've also turned my Les Paul into a lap steel. I can get all kinds of sounds running it thru my effects box. So far.. I love it. Excuse the hijack.. Love the shop. My El Camino would look right at home there.
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BlackSheepSpeedShop – Oh oh, the pressure is on! It’s time to get back to building and seeing where this project is headed (not exactly sure myself yet!). If all goes well, I should have something to report on early next week.
jahead – Mrs. Shopnut tried to teach me how to play a few years ago, but it turned out I was all thumbs. I bet you sound a lot better than I even without the index finger. It’s great to hear you’ve adapted to your current situation – that’s the best way to ride over life’s little bumps, IMHO.
Wishing you a speedy recovery so you can play those chords again soon. Thanks for the visit and the kind words.
jahead – Mrs. Shopnut tried to teach me how to play a few years ago, but it turned out I was all thumbs. I bet you sound a lot better than I even without the index finger
. It’s great to hear you’ve adapted to your current situation – that’s the best way to ride over life’s little bumps, IMHO.Wishing you a speedy recovery so you can play those chords again soon. Thanks for the visit and the kind words.
jahead
Member
Yeah.. I'm still in the sound proof room phase of learning. Its not as bad as learning to play the fiddle, but still painful to the trained ear. If you want to sell the steel or square neck dobro.. drop me a pm.
"Sound proof room phase" - funny! There isn't one with walls thick enough to protect the rest of you while I'm playing!
Go to this LINK to see some of Mrs. Shopnut's other guitars. In fact, check out that entire thread if you have some spare time.
TAKING AN AIR COMPRESSOR TO NEW HEIGHTS (Part 3)…
After a trial fit-up and run, I dropped the compressor back down on the cart. That gave me a chance to add some sheetrock to the back wall. I looked for some special sound absorbing type, but my local home improvement center didn’t carry any. They didn’t even carry any special caulk to allow me to make my own by gluing to sheets together (QuietSeal, they call it). I still plan to add some sound deadening around the pump and motor before I’m all finished, however.
Next went on a quick coat of white paint to seal the sheetrock and plywood. The chain hangs waiting for its chance to hook up.
Last time because of where the hoist was attached to the sidel, it sort of dragged the compressor up along the wall. A simple U-bolt cured that problem by diverting the chain to pull straight up from above. The loop will be left up there as a reminder on how to bring it back down someday when the compressor is replaced.
Now it is back up for the final time and I traced around the three iso-mounts once everything was positioned to my liking.
It was easier to pull the board out and fasten the mounts with it on the ground. Pencil tip points to small pilot hole directly below tank drain port. It was much easy to mark it now and a hole saw from below will cut the large hole if needed.
Here’s a close-up shot of the rubber mount. They do a fantastic job of knocking out all vibration. Some spacers under the mounts got the tank sitting perfectly plumb.
After a trial fit-up and run, I dropped the compressor back down on the cart. That gave me a chance to add some sheetrock to the back wall. I looked for some special sound absorbing type, but my local home improvement center didn’t carry any. They didn’t even carry any special caulk to allow me to make my own by gluing to sheets together (QuietSeal, they call it). I still plan to add some sound deadening around the pump and motor before I’m all finished, however.
Next went on a quick coat of white paint to seal the sheetrock and plywood. The chain hangs waiting for its chance to hook up.
Last time because of where the hoist was attached to the sidel, it sort of dragged the compressor up along the wall. A simple U-bolt cured that problem by diverting the chain to pull straight up from above. The loop will be left up there as a reminder on how to bring it back down someday when the compressor is replaced.
Now it is back up for the final time and I traced around the three iso-mounts once everything was positioned to my liking.
It was easier to pull the board out and fasten the mounts with it on the ground. Pencil tip points to small pilot hole directly below tank drain port. It was much easy to mark it now and a hole saw from below will cut the large hole if needed.
Here’s a close-up shot of the rubber mount. They do a fantastic job of knocking out all vibration. Some spacers under the mounts got the tank sitting perfectly plumb.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
After quite a few weeks of reading this during my lunch period, I don't have words for all you've accomplished here. This is just the bees knees of shops! So much of your information is useful and appeals to the mechanical engineer that I am. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see what you come up with for the car projects. As others have said I'll be stealing some of your ideas and love the thought of raising the air compressor, I have a big 60 gallon that will be seeing some movement in the near future.
akdiesel
Well-known member
shopnut
The king (air compressor) has its new thrown to look down on its castle. Looks good up there.
The king (air compressor) has its new thrown to look down on its castle. Looks good up there.
jbmatth – I’m really glad to hear some of this is helpful to you. And certainly feel free to borrow any idea that appeals to you – and improve on it! (That’s what we engineers feel compelled to always do, right?) Thanks for the kind words.
BTW, nice shed you constructed there. It’s great that you didn’t need a permit for that large of a building. Here, they require a permit for EVERYTHING! Great looking Cobra too
akdiesel – When I hoisted the compressor up there the first time, I texted Mrs. Shopnut that the “bird is on its perch”. But I like your saying better – the king is on his throne. And I guess that makes me one of its loyal subjects giving it everything it needs! The king can have it though, I already have a throne of my own and here is a view while sitting on it
(before I installed the lift, of course)
BTW, nice shed you constructed there. It’s great that you didn’t need a permit for that large of a building. Here, they require a permit for EVERYTHING! Great looking Cobra too
akdiesel – When I hoisted the compressor up there the first time, I texted Mrs. Shopnut that the “bird is on its perch”. But I like your saying better – the king is on his throne. And I guess that makes me one of its loyal subjects giving it everything it needs! The king can have it though, I already have a throne of my own and here is a view while sitting on it
(before I installed the lift, of course)
220VAC WIRING FOR THE COMPRESSOR…
I was tired of draping a 220V extension cord across the shop floor every time I wanted to test run the compressor, so I pulled out the roll of MC cable to do the job permanently. I have a wireway available all the around the shop for all future cable/hose routings, but it still takes a bit of effort to snake something by myself because the path takes it through the side lofts, and that means elevated heights (pull it through one spot, move manlift, pull it through another, etc.).
There was already a double pole 20A breaker in the main panel reserved for the compressor and the blue tape down in the lower left corner indicates its position.
And this is what I see with the lid back on. A timer will be used to turn the compressor on and off, so this breaker will generally remain in the ON position when finished with the installation.
SOME PARTS FOR THE COMPRESSOR CONTROL PANEL…
Here are the majority of the parts that will make up the compressor control panel – 7-day timer, regulator, gauges, and 12-hour timer. Pretty simple really. The component in the lower right corner is an indicator light module with labels “TANK 1” and “TANK 2”. It was cheap and looked kind of cool, so I bought it thinking it might come in handy if I have 2 compressor systems someday (long story there). I probably won’t install it initially but will leave room for it in case the need arises.
SOME PARTS FOR THE COMPRESSOR PLUMBING…
I’m still waiting on a number of parts to show up, but this is the general layout. The gray colored water separator will be used in place of the red FLR shown and has much larger 1/2 NPT ports. I paid $20 more to get the auto-drain feature and it will be located under the compressor shelf along with the air-actuated shut-off valve. I will most likely use the red FLR with 1/4 NPT ports on my smaller system at the city garage.
AND THIS IS WHERE I’M HEADED WITH ALL THIS…
There will be room to roll in a cabinet below the compressor. The casters on this cabinet will allow quick access to service the water separator and valves below the compressor. In keeping with the rest of the theme here – only wheel will touch the shop floor. The cabinet will be clad in aluminum tileboard to match the rest of the shop interior. So far, so good.
I was tired of draping a 220V extension cord across the shop floor every time I wanted to test run the compressor, so I pulled out the roll of MC cable to do the job permanently. I have a wireway available all the around the shop for all future cable/hose routings, but it still takes a bit of effort to snake something by myself because the path takes it through the side lofts, and that means elevated heights (pull it through one spot, move manlift, pull it through another, etc.).
There was already a double pole 20A breaker in the main panel reserved for the compressor and the blue tape down in the lower left corner indicates its position.
And this is what I see with the lid back on. A timer will be used to turn the compressor on and off, so this breaker will generally remain in the ON position when finished with the installation.
SOME PARTS FOR THE COMPRESSOR CONTROL PANEL…
Here are the majority of the parts that will make up the compressor control panel – 7-day timer, regulator, gauges, and 12-hour timer. Pretty simple really. The component in the lower right corner is an indicator light module with labels “TANK 1” and “TANK 2”. It was cheap and looked kind of cool, so I bought it thinking it might come in handy if I have 2 compressor systems someday (long story there). I probably won’t install it initially but will leave room for it in case the need arises.
SOME PARTS FOR THE COMPRESSOR PLUMBING…
I’m still waiting on a number of parts to show up, but this is the general layout. The gray colored water separator will be used in place of the red FLR shown and has much larger 1/2 NPT ports. I paid $20 more to get the auto-drain feature and it will be located under the compressor shelf along with the air-actuated shut-off valve. I will most likely use the red FLR with 1/4 NPT ports on my smaller system at the city garage.
AND THIS IS WHERE I’M HEADED WITH ALL THIS…
There will be room to roll in a cabinet below the compressor. The casters on this cabinet will allow quick access to service the water separator and valves below the compressor. In keeping with the rest of the theme here – only wheel will touch the shop floor. The cabinet will be clad in aluminum tileboard to match the rest of the shop interior. So far, so good.
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KEEPING THE COMPRESSOR COOL…
I had this ventilation fan on hand and considered using it.
But it seemed like kind of a waste when all I needed to do in this case was move some air. It didn’t need to have a fancy grille, it didn’t need a light, and it really didn’t need a nightlight. It also was going to complicate the enclosure. So I opted for a simple inline unit for $20 which turns out to be capable of moving more air (100 cfm). I already had the semi-rigid duct from a laudry room remodel and I bought the louver, which once the flaps are removed, will serve as just a flange mount for the duct or fan. I still don't know exactly where this will be routed yet.
In the short amount of time I ran the compressor so far, I noticed the heat from the compressed air not only warms up the pump, but also gets the tank fairly warm. With this in mind, I decided to run the fan off the same circuit that powers the shop air loop shut-off valve (controlled by the 12-hour timer). It may be running more than it needs to sometimes, but it will continue to cool things down between compressor cycles.
If it ends up seeming like a lot of energy is being wasted with the fan running continuously for hours at a time, I may re-think this a little bit and tie it directly into the compressor motor circuit. I guess it also depends on the noise level of that little fan – I may not want to listen to it all the time.
SOME ADDITIONAL PARTS…
Why do I need a choke cable? To remote actuate the timer, of course. You can't expect me to open the timer door every time I switch on the compressor, can you? Actually, the timer will be hidden behind another door (if my plan works out), so there would be two doors to open every time.
A 1/2 NPT hose will provide the flexible link between a fixed piping system and a vibrating compressor..
The water separator showed up and I discovered the bowl pops off with a 1/4 turn.
I found the operation of it somewhat interesting so I thought I would share. With no pressure, it drains out freely. It can also drain under pressure if the level rises too high in the bowl. The reality is, I should never have to ever touch it, except maybe to clean that white filter.
I had this ventilation fan on hand and considered using it.
But it seemed like kind of a waste when all I needed to do in this case was move some air. It didn’t need to have a fancy grille, it didn’t need a light, and it really didn’t need a nightlight. It also was going to complicate the enclosure. So I opted for a simple inline unit for $20 which turns out to be capable of moving more air (100 cfm). I already had the semi-rigid duct from a laudry room remodel and I bought the louver, which once the flaps are removed, will serve as just a flange mount for the duct or fan. I still don't know exactly where this will be routed yet.
In the short amount of time I ran the compressor so far, I noticed the heat from the compressed air not only warms up the pump, but also gets the tank fairly warm. With this in mind, I decided to run the fan off the same circuit that powers the shop air loop shut-off valve (controlled by the 12-hour timer). It may be running more than it needs to sometimes, but it will continue to cool things down between compressor cycles.
If it ends up seeming like a lot of energy is being wasted with the fan running continuously for hours at a time, I may re-think this a little bit and tie it directly into the compressor motor circuit. I guess it also depends on the noise level of that little fan – I may not want to listen to it all the time.
SOME ADDITIONAL PARTS…
Why do I need a choke cable? To remote actuate the timer, of course. You can't expect me to open the timer door every time I switch on the compressor, can you?
Actually, the timer will be hidden behind another door (if my plan works out), so there would be two doors to open every time.A 1/2 NPT hose will provide the flexible link between a fixed piping system and a vibrating compressor..
The water separator showed up and I discovered the bowl pops off with a 1/4 turn.
I found the operation of it somewhat interesting so I thought I would share. With no pressure, it drains out freely. It can also drain under pressure if the level rises too high in the bowl. The reality is, I should never have to ever touch it, except maybe to clean that white filter.
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BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
You have my attention! Great ideas as always.
Thanks.
I made some good headway on the compressor installation and a full report is coming soon. BTW, I failed to mention is that I took your suggestion (thanks again!) and ordered an hour meter to keep track of the run time on the compressor. Its size will match the pressure gauges and it looks like this:
I’m still waiting for it to show up, along with some other indicator lights.
JCQuick
Well-known member
thats a good idea run timer on a compressor we may have to do this when we move ours to the new spot
What prompted me to start installing timers on certain key things was probably the third time riding home from the shop thinking "Did I leave that (fill in the blank) on?". Kinda like leaving for a trip and wondering if you left the oven on.
So far they have been working great for me, mostly by giving me peace of mind more than anything else.
PLUMBING FOR THE COMPRESSOR…
Even though the mobile cabinet will hide this area when in place, I cut a piece of tileboard paneling to cover up the insulation below the compressor shelf.
The filter and drain fittings where then installed (after a hole was cut in the shelf, of course).
I had to make some custom brackets to hang the ball valve and water separator below the shelf and I started with some Simpson Strong-Tie brackets.
The tank hose was added.
An elbow and swivel adapter were added to the side of the tank. The swivel nut is essential for tightening connections since the crimped ends on the hose are non-rotating.
Even though the mobile cabinet will hide this area when in place, I cut a piece of tileboard paneling to cover up the insulation below the compressor shelf.
The filter and drain fittings where then installed (after a hole was cut in the shelf, of course).
I had to make some custom brackets to hang the ball valve and water separator below the shelf and I started with some Simpson Strong-Tie brackets.
The tank hose was added.
An elbow and swivel adapter were added to the side of the tank. The swivel nut is essential for tightening connections since the crimped ends on the hose are non-rotating.
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Foxxtrot
Well-known member
Haven't been to this site since December. Time flies when you are having fun.....or slam busy, as it were. Either way, it sure seems like you haven't let much grass grow under your feet! Glad to see it is still coming along! Interestingly enough, I have been to Florida twice in the past couple of months but I haven't had time to get over to Skycrafters while I was there. A shame too, because I really miss that place. Thanks for giving me some reading to catch up on!
Yeah, probably the only time you will see grass growing under my feet is when it’s growing 6 feet over them as well
.I wish you luck in finding a little free time amongst all the other priorities. Sometimes “life” has other plans for us.
PLUMBING FOR THE COMPRESSOR…
The shutoff valve and water separator essentially hang from the compressor shelf. This may come in handy if/when the compressor needs replacement – the shelf and all parts can be pulled out as one unit before the compressor is hoisted back down. In the picture, the copper tube leads out to the regulator
Here’s a shot of the regulator mounted to the left side of the compressor. Pressure gauge is temporary until the control panel is designed and built. Gauges and hour meter will line up over blue tape. The 7-day timer will probably be moved down a bit from the position shown.
Here’s the flexible hose from the tank to the shutoff valve. As I mentioned earlier, the tank can move around quite a bit so a solid pipe just wouldn’t work.
I mounted the 3-way valves for the drain system on a separate plate. A junction box will be added soon for the wiring of these valves along with the shutoff valve, and one power cord will energize them all simultaneously.
Note that with the drain system in place, the two hoses connecting the valves flow downhill. A keen eye will spot that the hose leading from the tank bottom has a slight hump in it and that will be remedied soon as to not create a place for water to collect.
A QUICK REPORT ON THE OPERATION…
At this point it was sealed up enough for some testing. It was a relatively dry day (for Florida), but I was amazed to see water swirling around inside the separator. And it drained out automatically when tank pressure dropped to zero. Success!
I didn’t run the compressor long enough to collect any water in the tank, so can’t say yet if the drain system is really working or not. But at least I can confirm it seems to be acting as expected. There is a slight puff (or pop) of air out the lower drain line each time you switch the valves on or off. This is due to it switching from one flow circuit to the other. Now all I need is a bottle to collect the water from the tank drain and water separator.
The air-powered shutoff valve also worked fine. It was sort of fun watching the shaft rotate the valve open and closed when I powered it up (yep, doesn’t take much to entertain me!)
Now if only the rest of those control parts would show up so I can start building the panel. I don’t like getting too far ahead without the actual parts on hand for proper fitment.
The shutoff valve and water separator essentially hang from the compressor shelf. This may come in handy if/when the compressor needs replacement – the shelf and all parts can be pulled out as one unit before the compressor is hoisted back down. In the picture, the copper tube leads out to the regulator
Here’s a shot of the regulator mounted to the left side of the compressor. Pressure gauge is temporary until the control panel is designed and built. Gauges and hour meter will line up over blue tape. The 7-day timer will probably be moved down a bit from the position shown.
Here’s the flexible hose from the tank to the shutoff valve. As I mentioned earlier, the tank can move around quite a bit so a solid pipe just wouldn’t work.
I mounted the 3-way valves for the drain system on a separate plate. A junction box will be added soon for the wiring of these valves along with the shutoff valve, and one power cord will energize them all simultaneously.
Note that with the drain system in place, the two hoses connecting the valves flow downhill. A keen eye will spot that the hose leading from the tank bottom has a slight hump in it and that will be remedied soon as to not create a place for water to collect.
A QUICK REPORT ON THE OPERATION…
At this point it was sealed up enough for some testing. It was a relatively dry day (for Florida), but I was amazed to see water swirling around inside the separator. And it drained out automatically when tank pressure dropped to zero. Success!
I didn’t run the compressor long enough to collect any water in the tank, so can’t say yet if the drain system is really working or not. But at least I can confirm it seems to be acting as expected. There is a slight puff (or pop) of air out the lower drain line each time you switch the valves on or off. This is due to it switching from one flow circuit to the other. Now all I need is a bottle to collect the water from the tank drain and water separator.
The air-powered shutoff valve also worked fine. It was sort of fun watching the shaft rotate the valve open and closed when I powered it up (yep, doesn’t take much to entertain me!)
Now if only the rest of those control parts would show up so I can start building the panel. I don’t like getting too far ahead without the actual parts on hand for proper fitment.
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tinbender 66
Well-known member
I do truly love your overkill!