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let's see your craftsman block grinders

nine4gmc

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Tm and drives, I read it as the stand slid when actually using it, not just letting it run. Mine will sit in one spot for days while
Running but if I press against the wheel to clean up a part, it slides on me.
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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Picked up the pedestal today and mounted my 3/4 on it. It looks great, but it slides on my floor while running.

Is there anything I can do to stop that besides bolting it down?

Put some hockey pucks or other type of somewhat high durometer rubber between the base and the floor. Even a piece of shelf liner. I like that 3/4hp setup. :drool:
 

zeet

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Jun 13, 2013
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Southern California
I'm guessing you want to be able to move it around the shop and/or outside and that's the reason for not bolting it down?

The Mat idea is a good one, though I've had mixed success with it... Depends on the material. Sheer mass usually seems to be the best solution.
 

montanafordman

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$202.50 total for this one. I had a hard time justifying a $160 bid.

Wow! I have two 1/2hp blocks and was thinking about selling one to help fund the purchase of a welder, but now I think I'll do the opposite and hang onto it actually just because if I ever want a second one again its going to be that much more of a pain to replace it. After seeing the blockmeister thread I'm really thinking about that belt/disc sander attachment mod for the second one!
 

bluebolt

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Benton LA
Sell out :lol: j/k, it's got me considering putting one up as well. :thumbup:

The problem is the ones I have that are even close to that nice I don't want to sell and the ones I do want to sell are not even close to that condition.

Remember quality sells. For every grinder this nice there are 20 grinders that are missing shields, lights, water cups, have really faded labels and other issues.
 

Gareth68

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Jul 22, 2009
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Missouri....West of Mexico
Ok, here she is in all her raw dirty glory...


IMG_1226_zpsdac051d7.jpg


IMG_1227_zps53087b31.jpg


:thumbup:
 

exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
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Remember quality sells. For every grinder this nice there are 20 grinders that are missing shields, lights, water cups, have really faded labels and other issues.

What is your opinion on changes to the original, ie: Changing the original plastic eye shields to the older style glass/metal? Would a prospective buyer care either way as long as the rest of the grinder looked/ran well?
 

torqueman2002

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What is your opinion on changes to the original, ie: Changing the original plastic eye shields to the older style glass/metal? Would a prospective buyer care either way as long as the rest of the grinder looked/ran well?
For me, I prefer the metal eye shields and don't care about keeping one in that condition (or any one that needs paint) in original/close to new condition.

But, for re-sale; I wonder if anyone other than a Block-head would notice/care. :dunno:
 
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torqueman2002

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A E Numan

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Portland Oregon
Here's one, mid sixty's (date on bottom is messed up) in nice shape. I made a wooden spacer between the stand and the grinder to make it easyier for me to use. anyone know where I can find an original quench tray for it.
 

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nine4gmc

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That's in great condition Numan, I think the quench trays are still available through sears parts direct, you may want to have a look there.
 

Outlawmws

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Here's one, mid sixty's (date on bottom is messed up) in nice shape. I made a wooden spacer between the stand and the grinder to make it easyier for me to use. anyone know where I can find an original quench tray for it.

How many times have we heard that?

That's in great condition Numan, I think the quench trays are still available through sears parts direct, you may want to have a look there.

If so that needs to go on the "parts list" thread/posts...
 

bluebolt

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Benton LA
The smaller 5" tray found on most 1/4 to 12 HP grinders part #5336943 is no longer available.

The larger 6" tray found on 1/2 HP Commercial and 3/4 -1 HP part 534436227 IS still available. Google it and you will find a lot of sources. It's not cheap averaging around $28 plus shipping.

I think the trays work on either one I tried a small one on my 1/2 HP commercial and it fits fine.
 
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McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
Wow! I have two 1/2hp blocks and was thinking about selling one to help fund the purchase of a welder, but now I think I'll do the opposite and hang onto it actually just because if I ever want a second one again its going to be that much more of a pain to replace it. After seeing the blockmeister thread I'm really thinking about that belt/disc sander attachment mod for the second one!

Montana,

I have tried the Multitool belt grinding attachment on a 1/2hp Commercial cap-start and it worked well. I have not tried it on a 1/2hp split-phase. Which kind do you have?
 

montanafordman

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Meridian, ID
Montana,

I have tried the Multitool belt grinding attachment on a 1/2hp Commercial cap-start and it worked well. I have not tried it on a 1/2hp split-phase. Which kind do you have?

I have two commercial cap start blocks. One is the older "round top" which is complete and in real nice condition, and the other is a 70's "bread box" (I think I got those two nicknames/descriptions right) 1/2hp commercial cap start block. I intend to do the conversion on the later one since its not quite as nice and has a mismatched (black painted) replacement guard on the left side so it would benefit from a repaint/retrofit. It also shows a slightly larger amp draw from the earlier one but I have no idea if there is any real world difference between the two. They both run strong and smooth. It sounds like the 1/2hp will work power wise? I see on their website they sell it paired with a 1/2hp Jet grinder and I'd imagine this one has at least as much oomph as a Jet Taiwan grinder.

Am I correct that you had exmaxima1 machine you the spacer you needed? I may contact him for that also. Here is the block I'd love to put the sander attachment on.


IMG_1000.jpg



IMG_1001.jpg
 

McBrownie

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I have two commercial cap start blocks. One is the older "round top" which is complete and in real nice condition, and the other is a 70's "bread box" (I think I got those two nicknames/descriptions right) 1/2hp commercial cap start block. I intend to do the conversion on the later one since its not quite as nice and has a mismatched (black painted) replacement guard on the left side so it would benefit from a repaint/retrofit. It also shows a slightly larger amp draw from the earlier one but I have no idea if there is any real world difference between the two. They both run strong and smooth. It sounds like the 1/2hp will work power wise?

Am I correct that you had exmaxima1 machine you the spacer you needed? I may contact him for that also.

Montana,

I put the 2x36 Multitool on a 3/4hp Industrial and a 1/2hp Commercial cap-start. While the 3/4hp came up to speed faster, they both ran just fine. Exmaxima1 was the guy who made the spacer and came up with the shaft collar idea. I built the first spacer with plywood and that worked, it just looked hokey. Without the shaft collar, however, I couldn't have eliminated the runout on the aluminum drive wheel. I have it written up in more detail on the "PA Multitool" thread. By the way, I really like having this tool in the garage! I also agree with BB that you are starting with a great grinder. I started with a train wreck. ;)
 
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Jack Olsen

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I got one. A 1/2-HP 6". I'm guessing it's from the 70s or 80s. Is there any way to tell?

I painted it and made a new ID plate, which I got printed on aluminum.

qn4UYx.jpg


Here's a before and after. Nothing too dramatic, but better.

TRoJKC.jpg


It came with a tool holder, which I'm not sure I'll ever use. Do these things come in handy? I thought it might be good for sharpening knives?

4sbEV4.jpg


And one more picture, because, well, why not? I finally got a Craftsman block grinder. :)

eFhSzu.jpg


Fun to be able to do your own plate:

OV5aZo.jpg
 

-Brent-

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Dec 23, 2009
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Jack, usually there's a date in indigo-colored ink on the galvanized sheet metal piece on the bottom of the grinder. You'll likely have to take it off to see the date as it's usually facing the inside of the grinder.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Jack: nice upgrade on your bench grinder and welcome to the block club. I'm sure a few members might be asking you to print off one of those customized labels and i didn't notice your verbage until EG mentioned it. since you are setting it directly on your bench are your rubber grommets still in great shape or even there? the guys seem to find new ones at Lowes and a few online places and they say they work great. if you need some just look back a week or so and i'm sure you'll find some postings about them because they get talked about almost as much as missing shields and water trays. or just ask and i'm sure one of the block guys will post a quick answer, but i haven't had to buy any so i'm not that guy.

BTW if anybody hasn't seen Jack's 12 gauge garage over in the garage gallery it's worth a look because there are some fantastic ideas on how to make a 2 car garage hold a car and also be an amazing shop.
 

Jack Olsen

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Thanks, guys.

-Brent-, there's no date printed there. I suspect it's a newer unit because of that and the plain plastic eye guards it came with. I don't know if the quality dropped off as the years passed, but it runs nice and strong.

drivesitfar, were there rubber feet for these? I bolted it right to the table, and the (small) table has rubber feet, so vibration is not an issue. As my label makes clear, I'm not s stickler for correct restoration. But if the feet have any other benefits, I'll keep an eye out for some.

(And thanks for the nice words about the garage.)
 

McBrownie

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I got one. A 1/2-HP 6". I'm guessing it's from the 70s or 80s. Is there any way to tell?

And one more picture, because, well, why not? I finally got a Craftsman block grinder. :)

Congratulations! As others have said, there might be a date on the bottom plate. If not, that one is most likely mid to late '70's. Now go get three more. :D

Edit:
These feet work and would help with air circulation. You can get these at Lowes.

View media item 40451
 
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torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
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SE Michigan
I got one. A 1/2-HP 6". I'm guessing it's from the 70s or 80s. Is there any way to tell?

I painted it and made a new ID plate, which I got printed on aluminum.

qn4UYx.jpg


....
I finally got a Craftsman block grinder. :)
....
Nice!

What brand and color paints did you use?

And, please - tell us more about creating the machine tag/label.
 

vertguy

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Apr 6, 2010
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Location
SE WI
That turned out great. :thumbup:

Every nice Block needs a good CM stand.

BTW - What primer and color brands and numbers did you use?

Torqueman: Both are Rustoleum... pole is Semi-Gloss black enamel & the base/top is Hammered Gray.

Jack: great job on the 1/2HP as it came out sweet!! Ironically enough, I just picked up the same tool holder (new in box - the small screws are sealed in the original bag). As with you, not sure I will use it. But I could not pass it up.
 

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Jack Olsen

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qn4UYx.jpg


Nice!

What brand and color paints did you use?

And, please - tell us more about creating the machine tag/label.

I didn't take any big risks. I knew these things usually have two colors. So I used the darker color from the grinder next to this one and the lighter color from the band saw on the other side.

Sides: Rustoleum Semigloss Anodized Bronze
Center: Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray Enamel (Gloss, unfortunately)

I got the file printed by Bay Photo. Including shipping, it was about $15 -- which is steep relative to the cost of the grinder, but cheap considering how much the faded decal would have bugged me over the years.

It's a 4"x4" print with 1/8" rounded corners, printed with a gloss finish on aluminum. (Google how to get a 25% discount on your first order, if you use them.) Here's a link:

http://www.bayphoto.com/metal.../single/sizes-and-prices.htm

Jack if the crown label was original with he "crown" I'd say 60's to mid 70's

It didn't have the crown. It had the rectangle with Sears on the left and Craftsman on the right. Like this one:

CraftsmanGrinder1.jpg


The crown logo was in the file I found online to make the new ID plate. It also had the rectangle Sears logo on it, but I took it off -- I care more about the Craftsman than the Sears.
 

jakemac

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New England
It has the round ears on the side covers and a paddle switch, so earlier in the 70's would be my guess. Right after the switch from round top to flat top, during the switch from crown top logo to rectangle logo. '70 - '73 ?
 
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