Picked up the pedestal today and mounted my 3/4 on it. It looks great, but it slides on my floor while running.
Is there anything I can do to stop that besides bolting it down?

$202.50 total for this one. I had a hard time justifying a $160 bid.
Sell outj/k, it's got me considering putting one up as well.
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Remember quality sells. For every grinder this nice there are 20 grinders that are missing shields, lights, water cups, have really faded labels and other issues.
For me, I prefer the metal eye shields and don't care about keeping one in that condition (or any one that needs paint) in original/close to new condition.What is your opinion on changes to the original, ie: Changing the original plastic eye shields to the older style glass/metal? Would a prospective buyer care either way as long as the rest of the grinder looked/ran well?


Here's one, mid sixty's (date on bottom is messed up) in nice shape. I made a wooden spacer between the stand and the grinder to make it easyier for me to use. anyone know where I can find an original quench tray for it.
That's in great condition Numan, I think the quench trays are still available through sears parts direct, you may want to have a look there.
Wow! I have two 1/2hp blocks and was thinking about selling one to help fund the purchase of a welder, but now I think I'll do the opposite and hang onto it actually just because if I ever want a second one again its going to be that much more of a pain to replace it. After seeing the blockmeister thread I'm really thinking about that belt/disc sander attachment mod for the second one!
Montana,
I have tried the Multitool belt grinding attachment on a 1/2hp Commercial cap-start and it worked well. I have not tried it on a 1/2hp split-phase. Which kind do you have?
I have two commercial cap start blocks. One is the older "round top" which is complete and in real nice condition, and the other is a 70's "bread box" (I think I got those two nicknames/descriptions right) 1/2hp commercial cap start block. I intend to do the conversion on the later one since its not quite as nice and has a mismatched (black painted) replacement guard on the left side so it would benefit from a repaint/retrofit. It also shows a slightly larger amp draw from the earlier one but I have no idea if there is any real world difference between the two. They both run strong and smooth. It sounds like the 1/2hp will work power wise?
Am I correct that you had exmaxima1 machine you the spacer you needed? I may contact him for that also.
How do you guys prevent paint from getting on the grinder's motor plate? Do you simply use masking tape?
How do you guys prevent paint from getting on the grinder's motor plate? Do you simply use masking tape?
Painted the stand from TorqueMan last night and my '68 now looks right at home!
You can remove the plate or mask it.
Painted the stand from TorqueMan last night and my '68 now looks right at home!
That looks real nice, what bulb do you have in the light?
That turned out great.Painted the stand from TorqueMan last night and my '68 now looks right at home!
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I got one. A 1/2-HP 6". I'm guessing it's from the 70s or 80s. Is there any way to tell?
And one more picture, because, well, why not? I finally got a Craftsman block grinder.![]()
Nice!I got one. A 1/2-HP 6". I'm guessing it's from the 70s or 80s. Is there any way to tell?
I painted it and made a new ID plate, which I got printed on aluminum.
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I finally got a Craftsman block grinder.
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That turned out great.
Every nice Block needs a good CM stand.
BTW - What primer and color brands and numbers did you use?
Nice!
What brand and color paints did you use?
And, please - tell us more about creating the machine tag/label.
Jack if the crown label was original with he "crown" I'd say 60's to mid 70's